RESTAURANT REPORTER: VICTORIA
COR
The Oyster Bar | 614 Humboldt St., Victoria | 250.385.5562
Welcome
Slinging back raspberry mojitos and sweet jazz, I peruse the oyster guide at the oyster, yet another of Mike Murphy’s brainchildren. No effinghams (“plump, tender, briny, lettuce like finish”) today, but no matter, the kusshis (“buttery, rich, salty, sweet, mildly fruity finish”), and a maybe the phantom creek (“fresh + sweet with a slightly fruity aftertaste”) from premium list will do. There is a steady cross breeze from the open French doors and, with its deep orange walls, high ceilings, trendy staff and sleek bar, The oyster is hip and welcoming.
Rebecca Wellmam
From top center, clockwise: Kusshi, Phantom creek, Malpeque, Little Wing, Fanny Bay, Satori, Black pearl at Oyster.
Rebecca Wellmam
“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” – Jonathan Swift (from the oyster website) The lunch menu includes a House Smoked Beef Carpaccio, Pan Seared Sooke Trout and Lobster and King Crab Cannelloni. Dinner offers Oysters Rockefeller, Braised Beef Short Ribs and Chili Roasted Jumbo Prawns. I was impressed by the raw scallop that was on special when I visited. Served on its own six-inch span shell, this guest appearance was delicate, substantial and wonderful to behold. The oyster has live music Fridays and Saturdays and DJ beats on Sundays. Victoria is always in need of more live music venues, and this is a sweet location, On tap, they serve seven of the finest local beers, including Driftwood Brewery’s White Bark Ale. — by Gillie Easdon
Bistro 28 | 2583 Cadboro Bay Rd., Victoria | 250.598-2828
16
EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009
Rebecca Wellmam
Chef Sam Chalmers of Bistro 28 breathes a sigh of relief as I confirm his approach to the menu for his almost thirty days old restaurant – and chuckles nervously… “Yes, there is a sense of humor in my menu and my culinary methodology – and you got it.” Although I would have described his approach and delivery as intellectual whimsy on the plate, the overarching result is that of perfection well beyond Sam’s 29 years on the planet. Sam shrugs, “I did the program at Dubrulle International Culinary Arts in Vancouver and the Northwest Culinary Academy for pastry… and was ready… eager… to dig in.” Owning a restaurant and being the chef de cuisine is a tall order for someone twice Sam’s age but he learnt the management side of the house running various night clubs in Edmonton, Alberta – got some schooling under his cap and cut his teeth at the Superior Café, Stage and Bon Rouge – and then surrounded himself with some good people before launching his own venture. My dinner companion and I sip a five-ounce glass of New Zealand Syrah during the first of subsequent visits to Bistro 28. She picked a four-ounce Kobe steak, medium rare with pommes frites, its texture like Ahi tuna – utterly melt-in-your-mouth! Kobe-style beef originates in Japan, is beer fed, massaged with sake and slaughtered painlessly and humanely – by design, it’s well-marbled and like many items on Bistro 28’s intellectually gifted menu, tends to weigh in on the modest end of the portion size. I have pork belly three ways; grilled pork belly medallions on brown beans, a diminutive wedge of roast pork belly and pulled pork on grilled toast. What I noticed, almost immediately about Bistro 28, is the irrepressible desire to converse with our fellow diners – there was an endless show and tell of adjacent food delivery replete with sighs of satisfaction… and promises of future exploration. We return within a few nights and virtually all twenty-six seats on the floor (and 10 at the bar) are filled. We open with local spot prawns “Pil Pil”- baked in Olive oil, chili’s, garlic and parsley lemon gremolata on a toasted baguette. There are some simple ingredients for this classic Spanish tapa but care in execution is critical – and Sam nailed it; sweetness in the prawn, a flirtation of heat, some ringing astringency in the citrus and just enough garlic not to overbear the shellfish. Our mains include scallops capped with a round of crisp, grilled pork belly and a side of greens. I have the porcini dusted halibut, garnished with cilantro on a bed of celeriac – stunning.
Chef Sam Chalmers w/ Grilled Metchosin Lamb Chops, Minted and Creamed Mushy Peas, Mixed Pea and Sesame Salad, Duck Jus. We close with double shots of 2% Jazz espresso coffee, a chocolate bowl (with a glance of black rock salt) and a maple tart. – Colin Newel
The websit you refuse? A ers Jennifer M their James B in. Galloping struck Chees Mountain As produce from squash – stra changes cons drop off flats berry bonanz The 1,000-s dating back t mained a po And while th those items s laid eggs. We of the 7-Elev aissance of c and in tune w tensive clean floors lie whe and boarded shelving spa from strollers come regular McKimmie known figure tor of food award-winnin Being in th thusiasm – o beans-by-dem more. McKim ing her own plement the one. “We wan ilies could co Fresh with a
Niagara Groc 6 p.m. 250-3