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Treve Ring’s ’s Seattle—a crowded bistro, Basque and a $35 steal.
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Part two of a series on Seattle
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Dahlia Lounge: Coconut Pie
Le Pichet
My Seattle
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hink of Seattle and Vancouver as typecast siblings. Just like normal families (i.e., Susie is the athletic one, Billy is the screw-up, etc.), Seattle is obviously the older, more cultured, political type—suit-wearing, corporate-climbing, Lexus driving. Vancouver, by contrast, is younger—artsy, eco-conscious, athletic. Of course, just as with all siblings, these generalizations are broad and sweeping. But there are enough similarities between Vancouver and Seattle to see that they’re of the same lineage, what with their strong local wine scene, fervour for locavores, and (of course) rain. I make a point of getting down to Seattle a few times each year. Whether by car (Nexus is a lifesaver), by Victoria Clipper (no-fuss, harbour-to-harbour service) or Kenmore Air (the prettiest 40-minute floatplane you’ll ever take), the Emerald City lures me down. Besides the obligatory stop at organic nirvana Whole Foods (where I hope to live one day), and checking into either the ultra-cool and arty Hotel Max or the luxurious and chic Alexis Hotel, I’ve a few other must-stops. Before I leave, I make a reservation for Dahlia Lounge. Its crimson-red walls and lantern-lit ceilings, open kitchen and celebrity Iron Chef Tom Douglas make for a winning formula. Douglas, a James Beard winner, is one of the forerunners of Pacific Northwest cuisine in the city and has some five downtown restaurants to prove it. Dahlia’s regionally inspired, ever-changing menu excites, as does the wine list, with numerous hard-tofind Washington producers and small lots. Flip directly to the last page of the list for binend gems. You’ll see people waxing poetic over their menu mainstays—crab cakes, coconut cream pie, mini doughnuts—and I can attest to their cult status. If the window booths are taken, sit at the bar, in the midst of it all, and enjoy some Washington Syrah with Dahlia’s fresh baked breads and spreads ... ahh. This is how my Seattle visits kick off. Another local crusader synonymous with Pacific Northwest cuisine is chef Kerry Sear. His Belltown restaurant Cascadia is named for the abundance of ingredients he locally sources. Chef Sear highlights organic, hormone-free product and has a gift for elevating the norm to great heights. Take his signature mini-burgers. Available in the bar, these
Harvest Vine super sliders are made to order from freshground hangar steaks and topped with tiny tomato rounds, carmelized red onions, fresh pickle and lettuce all sitting atop the cutest little buns. They make an addictive partner alongside the well-crafted martinis and soaring floor-to-ceiling windows onto 1st Avenue. Sear’s monthly three-course menu is an absolute steal at $35 per person. If you’re lucky enough to be there when they have Douglas Fir Sorbet on the menu, do not pass it up. Restaurant manager/sommelier Jeff LindsayThorsen has put together a thoughtful, wellpriced wine list that’s heavy on local producers, and he is always happy to point out his favourite local gems. A few blocks down 1st Avenue but worlds away is Le Pichet. Think Seattle’s version of Brasserie l’Ecole, but with the added bonus of being open for breakfast and lunch. That is, if you can sneak a seat in this thin room (don’t pass up a seat at the bar). Hands-down winner for best value in town, this cheerfully crowded bistro features housemade pâté, baked eggs and jambon and authentic French bread. The wine list always amazes with special bottles at prices so raisonnable, you’ll feel as if you’re stealing them. Breakfast here, with super strong caffe au lait, is a must-do. Shifting from French country fare to Spanish tapas, one night out must be devoted to Harvest Vine. The open kitchen welcomes you to the smells and sounds of chef/owner Jose Jimenez de Jimenez’s beloved Basque region. An unwavering commitment to authenticity and devotion to ingredients ensures a ravenously loyal following. The creative tapas are matched perfectly by an outrageously enticing wine list that’s rich with Spanish bottles and sherries not seen elsewhere. The best seat in the house is upstairs, in the bar; you have command over the entire restaurant and the smells of the kitchen enticingly waft up to tempt you. Sources on pg 12.
www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008
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