V11n12

B E T T E R F A S T E R STRONGER

V #

1 1

1 2

F R E E In Hawai’i

+

3 0

Ye a r s

o f

T h e

E d d i e

+

K e a n u

A s i n g

Dusty Payne. Photo: Sean Reilly

W W W. H U R L E Y. C O M

vissla.com

Creators & Innovators

Quad Boardshort / F r o n t Z i p Ve s t

Kamalei A lexander

This winter, big wave riding celebrates a special milestone:

INVITEES AARON GOLD, BRUCE IRONS, CLYDE AIKAU, DAVE WASSEL, GARRETT MCNAMARA, GRANT BAKER, GREG LONG, IAN WALSH, JAMIE MITCHELL, JAMIE O’BRIEN, JAMIE STERLING, JOHN JOHN FLORENCE, KALA ALEXANDER, KELLY SLATER, KOHL CHRISTENSEN, MAKUA ROTHMAN, MARK HEALEY, NATHAN FLETCHER, PETER MEL, REEF MCINTOSH, RAMON NAVARRO, SHANE DORIAN, SUNNY GARCIA, ROSS CLARKE-JONES, TAKAYUKI WAKITA, TOM CARROLL, JEREMY FLORES

ALTERNATE INVITEES MASON HO (AIKAU PICK), KOA ROTHMAN, KALANI CHAPMAN, DANILO COUTO, BILLY KEMPER, ANTHONY TASHNICK, CARLOS BURLE, ALBEE LAYER, ROSS WILLIAMS, BEN WILKINSON, DANNY FULLER, KEALII MAMALA, MICHAEL HO, KAI LENNY, SHAWN DOLLAR, GABRIEL VILLARAN, EVAN VALIERE, KAHEA HART, KEONI WATSON, DEREK DUNFEE, KOBY ABBERTON, MARK MATHEWS, ALEX GRAY , LAURIE TOWNER

HONORARY INVITEES DONNIE SOLOMON, ANDY IRONS, MARK FOO, MARVIN FOSTER, RONNIE BURNS, Ricky Grigg, JAY MORIARITY, LESTER FALATEA, MEL KINNEY, PETER DAVI, SION MILOSKY, TIGER ESPERE, Todd Chesser

Aloha

Q U I K S I LV E R . C O M / E D D I E

F R E E PA R K IN G The one that got away.

Photo: Sean Reilly

Sean Reilly

C O VER ST ORY / DUST Y PAYNE

Anyone that’s ever surfed Haleiwa knows the dreaded Toilet Bowl and river-like current, which makes this month’s cover all the more special.

Freesurf photographer Sean Reilly swam out for the final day of competition at the Reef Hawaiian Pro, careful not to get in the way of the best surfers in the world as they fiercely battled for points, money and prestige.

With 4 to 6 foot sets still on-hand, the Toilet Bowl was churning and the current was ripping. But Reilly managed to hold position, capturing many of the best moments of the event including this, one of many winning snaps and hard carves by Hawai’i’s own Dusty Payne.

A crowd favorite, Maui’s Payne basically had to bow out of the World Tour last year due to a nagging, serious knee injury. After a year later, the phoenix has truly risen. Payne, most agreed, looked literally better than ever. Bigger, stronger and faster.

However the story is not so simple. For the 35-minute final, Dusty Payne, Adam Melling and Jeremy Flores were basically combo-ed

by Australia’s Julian Wilson, who absolutely dominated the first 30 minutes with impeccably smooth, progressive aerial surfing. Wilson’s butter-like style and precision air assault earned him a total score of nearly 19 points.

With only about five minutes left, Payne grabbed his first 9+ ride.

Anyone watching the webcast would have thought they were witnessing a replay, as Dusty was on yet another 9+ wave 90 seconds later. Payne’s back-to-back near-perfect wave scores of 9.87 and 9.77, for a total of 19.64, outscored the Aussie and nailed him his second major career win.

It was a unique moment in surfing, and that’s why we thought to bring you this month’s cover. Because hardly anyone shoots Haleiwa from the water. Payne is now 24th on the ratings at this writing, with the last qualifying event of the season coming up at the Vans World Cup of Surfing.

HING T Y R E EV SALE!!

ON

WA WALL DLL TO EALS!!

w o l O B u l t a S u a n n l A e h r u t J 5 1 a n 31 Nov

Hawaii’s rts o Ocean Sprters Headqua

“This is how you get there, find the ocean at Surf N Sea” 62-595 Kam Hwy. Haleiwa, Hi. 96712 • (808) 637-7873 • www.surfnsea.com

TABLE OF C ONT ENT S

4 4 Profile / K e an u A sing

He a r t ove r h e i g h t

5 4 3 0 Ye ars of Th e E ddie

Re me mb e r i n g a l e g e n d

6 4 A p e rtu re

Oh Snap!

12

F re e Pa r ki n g

14

C ove r S t or y

18

Ed i t or ’s N ot e

22

N e ws & Eve n t s

76

En vi ron me n t

82

Da ma g e C on t rol

84

G rom Re p or t

68

Wa h i n e S p ot l i g h t

92

I n d u s t r y N ot e s

96

L a s t L ook

Model: Gitte Photo: Tony Heff

Heff

E D I T O R ’S N O T E

D E C E M B E R D ES CE NDS In Hawai’i, there are few details that denote the change of seasons. The plumeria branches go bare and ocean temperatures drop, but summer to fall and fall to winter is relatively subtle to the untrained eye.

But for anyone who has grown up in the islands or spent decent time here, there are delicate nuances of the seasons everywhere you look.

Obviously for surfers, the biggest transformation are the waves. But there’s also something else that just feels different.

Is it the amount of people on the beaches and bike path? The top 40 pros roaming Foodland? The ground tremors from massive waves? The weather turns cooler and nights approach quicker, and there is a distinctly different mood that descends upon the North Shore. The atmosphere is electric, like a live current that courses up and down the seven-mile stretch, down the sandy beach paths and up through the scaffolding at Pipe.

If you’re already here reading this, then I’m sure you know the feeling.

This energy is both a blessing and a warning, and I’m reminded of the famous quote, “with great power comes great responsibility.” During wintertime, the amount of energy surging through the North Shore is palpable. Lifeguards are on vigilant watch as the waves pound the beaches and attentive mothers sit on high alert as keiki take to the waves. Surf coaches and sponsors watch in anticipation as athletes tackle the power of the Pacific.

So as a reader of Freesurf and a waterman or waterwoman of Hawai’i, please help to make sure everyone has a safe, happy holiday season. Any surfer knows there is no time more exciting than when the west swells march toward the accommodating reefs of the North Shore, so enjoy this exciting time of waves, weather and exhilarating vibes during the holidays.

Our gift to you is another mag filled with barrels, beaches and beauty, all for free.

- Lauren Rolland Associate Publisher

SNS 1965

Sean Reilly

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Associate Publisher / Editor Lauren Rolland Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic Editorial Assistant Sean Reilly Intern Cole Yamane, Scott Martinez Staff Photographers Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Sean Reilly, Tyler Rock Free Thinkers Tiffany Hervey, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Shawn Pila, Amanda Crater

YOURS WHEN YOU BUY GIFT CARDS TOTALING $25 OR MORE. One free small smoothie per customer.

Senior Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brian Bielmann, Ryan Craig, Jeff Divine, Pete Frieden, Dane Grady, Taylor Ivison, Bryce Johnson, Ha’a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Bruno Lemos, ManaPhoto, Zak Noyle, Shawn Pila, Jim Russi, Spencer Suitt, Cole Yamane

Contributing Photographers Paulo Barcellos, John Bilderback, Kyle Burnett, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Damea Dorsey, Rick Doyle, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Hodgson, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Patrick Vieira, Jessica Wertheim, Peter Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Peter “Joli” Wilson

Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Office Manager Amy Withrow, Kiana Ho Account Executive Natasha Briley FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

Watch Board Stories and Billabong Surf TV OC16 Channel 12, or 112 digital in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv

Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV

And Board Stories

Mon 11:30pm

Mon 2:00pm

Tue 5:30am 1:30pm

Tue 11:30am

Wed 8:30pm

Wed 8:00pm

submissions or their return.

Thu 2:30am

Thu 2:00am

Fri 4:30am 3:00pm

Fri 6:00am

One-way correspondence can be sent to

Sun 6:00am

Sat 5:00am

Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged

P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712

Sun 7:00am

E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2012

www.jambahawaii.com Please recycle this magazine, mahalo.

Heff

N e w s & E vents /

Danny Fuller

by Chris Latronic

The Hawaiian Island Creations ASP 4 star - or possibly in the near future, the HIC PRO QS3000 - took the three best days of their 2-week holding period at the worldly famous Sunset Beach on the North Shore of Oahu. Pitting a collection of determined hopefuls from far and wide against one another to earn solid ASP points, the HIC Pro also offered the possibility of earning qualification into the honorable 2014 Triple Crown Of Surfing series as well. Although the first two days saw meager medium sized surf, the meat of the competition went down on the final day on November 9th in triple-overhead surf with a heavy dose of Sunset’s famously unforgiving conditions.

Standouts throughout the event included powerhouse locals like Pancho Sullivan and Sunny Garcia, who both made the quarters, while past champions Hank Gaskell and Joel Centeio made valiant efforts for semifinal results. Tanner Hendrickson torched his quarterfinal heat scoring the highest single wave score and heat total (with

22

Sean Reilly

VANS PRESENTS THE HIC PRO SUNSET BEACH

Billy Kemper

AMPLIFIER The Amplifier Model evolved from Eric’s popular K4 design that was modified for Joel Centeio. The tail rocker is slightly more relaxed than the K4 and the concave is amplified through the mid-section of the board. This increases forward lift for more front foot acceleration and speed. The position and shape of the concave creates better grip and drive through bottom turns with more speed heading into the lip and beyond. This model has become a favorite of both Centeio and Josh Moniz, and is a great high-performance choice for intermediate to advanced level surfers.

‘Tis the Surf Season for HIC Surfboards and Boardshorts

Tail shapes: Squash, Thumb, Round Pin and Swallow.

BANDIT The Bandit breaks all the rules as to what type of waves a mini-board can be ridden in. Designed to be ridden 3-6” shorter than your everyday shortboard, the Bandit catches waves easily and grovels well in small mushy conditions. However, this design should not to be regarded as a groveler only. It is a high performance shortboard in a mini-board disguise. It’s fast and loose. It squirts through flat sections and powers through the pocket. The Bandit is a barrel of fun and plenty of fun in the barrel.

Tail shapes: Squash, Bat Tail and Swallow.

“KAISERS” Octo Stretch Boardshort

ROUND PIN This design is a solid and proven performer in Hawaiian surf, as well as around the globe as a travel board. It’s extremely fast, responsive, and provides lots of drive and stability through hard rail turns. Its ability to go from small to medium to larger surf, makes it a must-have for any serious surfer’s quiver.

Optimum Wave Type: 3 to 8 ft. hollow reef, beach and point breaks.

With over 20 different Eric Arakawa models to choose from, HIC’s got the right board to take your surfing to the next level.

Ala Moana Center

Street Level, Mauka

808-973-6780

www.hicsurf.com

Sean Reilly

N e w s & E vents /

Fred Pattachia

The 32-year-old Kauaian was sharp and committed on his backhand, posting a clear-cut victory in the four-man final. This is Danny Fuller’s first event win of his 15year career at the HIC PRO, which qualified him for the prestigious Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. “This moment feels surreal, but I feel like I’ve earned it. I finally realized that if I can surf at my best performance, I can be as good as anybody.”

World Championship Tour competitor Fred Patacchia finished runner-up in 2nd while 3rd was defending HIC Pro champion Mason Ho - whose result saw him clinch the ASP Hawai’i Regional Champion title; and fourth was Maui’s Billy Kemper.

24

Heff

a 9.5 & 17.50 total) but was cut short at the semis.

If it was anyone’s day to triumph, it was Kauai’s Danny Fuller’s day. Up against three former HIC Pro champions in the final - Fred Patacchia, Mason Ho and Billy Kemper - Danny surfed five rounds in the final day en-route to his underdog victory.

“I’ve made finals at Pipeline and here before… It’s Hawai’i. Dreams are made and broken,” says Fuller. “I’ve just got to keep it positive and do my best. The ocean has been the giver of everything to me in my life and I’m so grateful for that.”

Mason Ho

Sean Reilly

Discover Samoa!

N e ws & Eve n t s /

Danny Fuller

FINAL: 1. Danny Fuller (HAW) $15,000; 1,000 ratings points (Score 14.9 points total out of possible 20 – indiv. scores:8.25, 6.65) 2. Fred Patacchia (HAW) $7,500; 750 ratings points (Score 10.65 points – 6.65, 4.0) 3. Mason Ho (HAW) $5,000; 563 ratings points (Score 9.7 points – 5.0, 4.7) 4. Billy Kemper (HAW) $3,500; 492 ratings points (Score 8.65 points – 5.5, 3.15) Semi Finals: (Surfers from Hawai’i unless noted otherwise) H1: Billy Kemper; Fred Patacchia; Joel Centeio; Hank Gaskell H2: Mason Ho; Danny Fuller; Tanner Hendrickson; Wade Carmichael (AUS) Quarterfinals:

The Heart of Polynesia

just a 5 hour direct flight away www.manoatours.com (685) 777-0007 manoatours@gmail.com

H1: Billy Kemper; Joel Centeio; Sunny Garcia; Landon McNamara H2: Fred Patacchia; Hank Gaskell; Kalani David; Jake Davis (USA) H3: Mason Ho; Danny Fuller; Ty Watson (AUS); Cody Robinson (AUS) H4: Tanner Hendrickson; Wade Carmichael (AUS); Pancho Sullivan; Mitchell James Round 4: H1: Billy Kemper; Hank Gaskell; Ian Walsh; Imaikalani Devault H2: Landon McNamara; Kalani David; Joey Sadoy; Johnny Noris (USA) H3: Fred Patacchia; Sunny Garcia; Evan Valiere; Keoni Yan (PYF) H4: Jake Davis (USA); Joel Centeio; Eli Olson; Koa Smith H5: Cody Robinson (AUS); Mitchell James; Kaisa Kawamura; Kaishu Tanaka H6: Ty Watson (AUS); Wade Carmichael (AUS); Dylan Goodale; Kaimana Jaquias H7: Pancho Sullivan; Mason Ho; Alex Smith; Jordin Watson (AUS) H8: Tanner Hendrickson; Danny Fuller; Joshua Moniz; Andrew Jacobson (USA)

N e w s & E vents /

T H E N E X T G E N E R ATION /

NORTH SHOR E M E N E H UN E S U R F I NG C HA M P I O NS HI P S G O E S O F F !

By Sean Reilly Photos Chris Latronic Keiki from around the islands gathered on Oahu’s fabled North Shore for the 38th annual North Shore Menehune Surfing Championships.

Haleiwa’s famed Ali’i Beach Park provided fun surf for over 400 competitors between the ages of 3 and 12.

Originally slotted to run the last two weekends of October, Hurricane Ana crept uncomfortably close during the first weekend of competition and the contest was postponed. But a little tropical storm wasn’t going to rain on this Menehune parade. The ocean cooperated perfectly the following weekend and Ali’i’s offered up ample servings of sunshine and rippable surf.

In order to make up for the lost weekend, two heats ran simultaneously; one division surfed Haleiwa (the west peak) while the other surfed Peaks (the east peak). The contest ran dozens of heats in 11 different divisions for boys and girls from 3 to 12, longboard, shortboard, tandem and stand up paddleboard.

28

While competitors shredded the playful 1 to 2 foot surf, family, friends and spectators packed the beach park with tents and BBQS. Minigroms who weren’t competing wreaked havoc in the shore break and participated in an on site art contest. To help promote literacy in young surfers, competitors gathered to trade and donate their old books during the 2nd annual Menehune Book Exchange.

After the final heat paddled in, participants swarmed the scaffolding to get autographs from surf superstars like Team Chance ‘EM, the Moniz boys and the Rothman brothers. Surfboards, GoPros and other cool prizes were handed out left and right during the post contest raffle.

Division winners took home an oversized check for a custom surfboard, a Tony Hawk autographed skatedeck and a goodie bag full of sweet gear.

All and all, everyone walked away with a smile.

KEANU

S E A N R E I L LY

H YAT T R E G E N C Y WA I K I K I ALA MOANA CENTER KOKO MARINA WINDWARD MALL WAIKELE

QUEEN KA窶連HUMANU CENTER KUKUI MALL L A H A I N A G AT E WAY

QUEENS MARKETPLACE

EAZY PER-FLEX 5.0 BOARDIES

L O C A L M O T I O N

HAWAII .COM

N e ws & Eve n t s /

4-6 BOY & GIRL SHORTBOARD 7-9 GIRLS SHORTBOARD 1. Steve Roberson 2. Kalanoweo Desoto 3. Beau Spradlin 4. Stone Suitt 5. Kelsen Snyder 6. Kainoa Delarole

1. BettyLou Sakura Johnson 2. ‘Ewelei’ula Wong 3. Natalia Wunderlich 4. Scarlett Schremmer 5. Puamakamae DeSoto 6. Olivia Souza

7-9 GIRLS LONGBOARD

10-12 GIRLS SHORTBOARD

1. Kailey Bogart 2. Alohi Garcia 3. Hanako Dougherty 4. Tiare Couto 5. Julia Cohen 6. Kyra Kahele

1. Alyssa Spencer 2. Summer Ivy 3. Sara Wakita 4. Leila Riccobuano 5. Gabbi Knudson 6. Jasmine Crawford

10-12 GIRLS LONGBOARD 7-8 BOYS SHORTBOARD 1. Ayla Sprecher 2. Tyra Gallano 3. Ava Padaca 4. Olivia Yossa 5. Taumana Caicedo 6. Cloe Chester

1. Paumalu Malone 2. Luke Tema 3. Hoku Diaz 4. Maddox MacMurray 5. Justin Roberson 6. Eric Roberson

7-9 BOYS LONGBOARD

9-10 BOYS SHORTBOARD

1. Nate Delamarter 2. Tamaroa Kalama 3. Kaleo Relator 4. Ka’iwa Foster 5. Kaua Kahaulelio 6. Adam Dao

1. Jackson Bunch 2. Makana Franzmann 3. Kai Martin 4. Luke Swanson 5. Keanu Taylor 6. Kaiser Auberlen

10-12 BOYS LONGBOARD 11-12 BOYS SHORTBOARD 1. Gino Coyle 2. Zion Otteman 3. Ben Johnasen 4. Sam Geertman 5. Hayden Leinau 6. Tahitoa Perkins

1. Robert Grilho 2. Reef Tsutsui 3. Thatcher Johnson 4. Jake Riccobuano 5. Austin Prevatt 6. Dylan Franzmann

N e w s & E vents /

VO LC O M P U FFERFISH SU RF S E R I E S Story & Photos By Shawn Pila The much-anticipated Volcom Pufferfish Surf Series made its way to Banyans in Kailua-Kona with playful 2 to 3 foot surf on Saturday, November 8th. Groms from all over the Big Island participated in the free event and got wild in-between heats, doing backflips off the walls and participating in playful games and events. The hotdogeating contest was amazingly disgusting, while the pro-am division showed off even more talent... in the water. Congratulations to Kona’s own Keala Naihe, winner of the pro-am heat and the $500 cash prize. And cheers to the winners from the other divisions!

SQUIDS 1) Diego Ferri 2) Kai Martin 3) Diesel Butts 4) Kaiao Freeme 5) Sophia Carlucci 6) Donovan Larson GROMS 1) Ocean Donaldson 2) Brodi Sale 3) Tony Nunez 4) Kayden Lieto 5) Ocean Macedo 6) Dylan Franzmann JUNIORS 1) Loa Ng 2) Josh Budroe 3) Chris O’Donnell 4) Lako Delovio 5) Jesse Kirkhill 6) Ben Kauhane PRO-AM 1) Keala Naihe 2) Lahiki Minamishin 3) Kiko Napeahi 4) Ulu Boy Napeahi 5) Forest Elmer 6) Kross Broderson GIRLS 1) Kahanu Delovio 2) Manu Napeahi 3) Kui Delovio 4) Summer Macedo 5) Rumor Butts 6) Malaika Bishaw WATERMELLON AWARD – Sophia Carlucci KICK-ASS GROM AWARD – Kainalu Kaku AIR SHOW – Lahiki Minamishin

Tweddle

N e w s & E vents /

HI S T O R IC DAY OF SU RF I NG AT T HE C LAR O ISA 5 0 TH ANNI VERSARY W OR L D S U R F ING G A MES I N PER U

By Mike Latronic

Every quadrant of this planet has a certain vibration and pulse. Some, like Hawai’i, are brand-new in the scope of universal evolution, having been forged from volcanoes only a mere hundreds of thousands of years ago.

The older landmasses - the great continents - would tend to seem far more grounded. The long arid deserts, which have shaped for millions of years, and rugged mountain chains throughout the planet seem the more “aged” lands. No such one country feels as ancient and grounded as Peru.

Touted as having some of the most consistent surf on the planet, Peru is rich in culture and history. Geological historians point to Ancient Peru as the oldest civilization in America and one of the four oldest high cultures of the world. It seems fitting that the International Surfing Association (ISA) would hold their 50th Anniversary in this deeply rooted country.

Celebrating 50 years of surfing stoke, the ISA held it’s golden anniversary event at the surf break known as Punta Rocas. 49 years earlier, this was the site of the second ever World Championships won by Peruvian Felipe Pomar. This year, 32 nations gathered to test their skills in the 50th anniversary celebration of the World Surfing Games presented by Claro, a Latin American telecommunications company.

The first days of the competition featured powerful 6 to 10 foot corduroy lines. Even as a swell subsided midweek, there was still ample 3 to 5 foot surf to make for great highlight reels every day. Defending team champion South Africa came with a selection of top athletes, as did 34

teams Peru, Australia, Argentina, Costa Rica and Japan.

The ISA organization has grown into over 100 team nations, including some unique recent members like Nepal, Russia and United Arab Emirates to name a few. Alongside the surfing, this Olympic style event showcased all the colors of our cosmopolitan planet. Teams tilted their flags, cheered in their native tongues and mixed colors and culture in a powerfully emotional sports gathering.

Following an incredible final day of great waves and tremendous surfing, the champions of the Claro ISA 50th Anniversary World Surfing Games were crowned. Congratulations to Peru, the new World Team Champion, who narrowly defeated Australia (2nd place), Argentina (3rd) and Costa Rica (4th). The host country is also the winner of the Fernando Aguerre World Team Champion Trophy and the International Olympic Committee (IOC) President’s Trophy.

Argentina’s Leandro Usuna is the new Men’s Claro ISA 50th Anniversary World Surfing Games champion. With powerful turns and carves in overhead surf at Punta Rocas, Usuna showed solid performances during the whole event, which ultimately awarded him the gold. Local favorite Anali Gomez is the new Women’s Claro ISA 50th Anniversary World Surfing Games Gold Medalist. Gomez earned the Gold Medal with a solid score in the last minutes of her heat.

“Fifty years ago the ISA was founded in Australia. We had five members.

We have ninety now. It has been a great ride,” says ISA President Fernando Aguerre. “Today, I would like to give thanks to Peru, for receiving us; we love to come to Peru. Also I would like to thank all the athletes and teams. To the public sector sponsors: the Peruvian Institute of Sports, the Peruvian Olympic Athletes Association, Peru’s National Surfing Federation and its President Carlos Neuhaus and Karin Sierralta the organizer. Muchas gracias to all.”

NORTH SHORE SURF SHOP got a shop that will treat you like family?

Team Rider Eala Stewart

got deck pads?

got fins?

got tees?

got beach fashion?

got surfboards?

Haleiwa’s Premiere Surf Shop!

66–150 Kamehameha Hwy Haleiwa, HI 96712 808.637.5002

N e w s & E vents /

B E THANY & AL AN A K E IK I C L A S S I C Story & Photos by Amanda Crater

Bethany Hamilton and Alana Blanchard hosted the second annual Keiki Classic surf competition on Saturday, October 25 at their home break on Kauai. In addition to the surf competition for boys and girls ages 14 and under, the event featured an essay contest, sportsmanship awards, beach games and the chance for kids to interact with Bethany and Alana throughout the day. Each contestant surfed two heats and were ranked on the best wave to advance to the finals – a looser judging format than last year designed to encourage fun above all else.

Sponsored by Rip Curl and Hanalei Surf Company, the free event drew the local community for a full day of competition, games and activities.

Blanchard awarded four kids her own surfboards for the sportsmanship awards, Hamilton chose three winners for the essay contest, and other prizes included GoPros and items from FlexFit, SPY, Cobian, Reef, Future Fins and Ormco. The 2-foot swell provided mild conditions for the kids to show off their skills.

“The main reason I love doing this is because I remember growing up and whenever we had an event like this it was just so much fun,” says Blanchard. “I definitely wanted to give back and give the kids a chance to feel like what we felt. Surfing is supposed to be fun. And you should never take anything too seriously – it’s definitely a competition but you just have to have fun with it,” she adds.

Blanchard and Hamilton joined the kids playing tag and dodgeball in the sand, and had the essay contest winners read their entries to the crowd 36

about the person most influential in their lives. Hamilton’s husband Adam ran the beach games for the kids in between heats, with both Bethany and Alana participating in the games and cheering the kids on.

“They’re really good role models for the keiki on Kauai and all over the world,” said 12-year-old North Shore surfer Gabriela Bryan, who received second place this year and participated last year.

Rip Curl also ran a Photo of The Day contest on Instagram, with the winner receiving a GoPro. Pictures and posts from the event with the hashtag #KeikiClassic can be found on social media.

Z I P L I N E N

O

R

T

H

S

H

O

R

E

KEANA FARMS R AT E D # 1 O A H U AT T R A C T I O N

RESERVATIONS REQUIRED

CLIMBWORKS.COM 808-200-7906

Closed Sundays Ages 7 and up No hand-braking No experience necessar y

N e ws & Eve n t s /

P EDA L P O W ER P RESENT ED BY V TC S, BIKEFA C T O RY & FREESU RF Freesurf, Vans Triple Crown of Surfing and BIKEFACTORY have teamed up to create Pedal Power, a new way to commute to school this season!

Pedal Power is a campaign designed to encourage kids around the North Shore, and beyond, to ride their bike to school - since we all know how crowded Kamehameha Highway can get during the winter months. Plus, riding a bike to school promotes an active and healthy lifestyle, which is why we urge parents to ride with their keiki each day, or create a bike group for kids and their friends to bike to school together.

In step with the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing’s stewardship initiative to give the world’s top ranked surfers bicycles for the winter, Pedal Power is teaming up with VTCS for weekly prize packs and BIKEFACTORY for grand prizes at the end of the 4-week campaign. Beginning on Monday, November 10th and lasting till December 8th, the schools participating in Pedal Power will announce prize pack winners on a weekly basis and three grand prize winners at the end. The grand prizes given out will be brand new bikes from BIKEFACTORY which include a 20” Electra Betty model and a 20” Rat Rod model (both include a cushy saddle, easy-touse coaster brakes and Electra’s Flat Foot Technology) and a 24” Boys Electra Cruiser (classic steel frame, comfy seat, wide bars, easy-rolling aluminum wheels, and plush whitewall tires). Grand prize winners will own the neighborhood on these Electra kid’s cruisers!

The schools participating include Waialua, Laie and Sunset Elementary.

All participants will have their name automatically entered in the weekly raffle for a VTCS prize pack, which will be announced at each school. All participants will also have their name entered in the grand prize raffle, which will be announced at the end of the campaign through each school as well.

Pedal Power is brought to you by Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, BIKEFACTORY and Freesurf, in an effort to encourage a healthful lifestyle. We hope this positive program will inspire more schools in other neighborhoods to do the same, and reduce each community’s carbon footprint. Let’s work together toward a greener future for the North Shore and beyond!

Sean Reilly

N e w s & E vents /

The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing’s first gem, the Reef Hawaiian Pro, kicked off on the first day of the waiting period in 6 to 10 foot surf and a solid NW swell at Haleiwa. After three consecutive days of incredible waves and world-class action, the 2014 Reef Hawaiian Pro was being called the greatest ASP Qualifying Series Prime-rated event ever witnessed for the quality of waves and level of surfing.

On November 15, the fourth and final day, the Reef Hawaiian Pro played out one of the most exciting finals in the event’s history as Maui’s Dusty Payne changed the game in the last 90-seconds of the final heat against Julian Wilson (AUS), Jeremy Flores (FRA) and Adam Melling (AUS).

Dusty’s second major career win, after the 2013 Drug Aware Margaret River Pro, sees the surfer jump from No. 97 on the ASP Qualifying Series (QS) ratings to No. 24, and within shot at requalification for the 2015 WCT. Look for the full Vans Triple Crown of Surfing wrap up in an upcoming Freesurf issue, where we’ll deliver awesome photos and relive the drama of this year’s Hawai’i title culmination.

REEF Hawaiian Pro Final Results: 1st: Dusty Payne (HAW) 19.64pts – $40,000 – 6,500 ratings points 2nd: Julian Wilson (AUS) 18.74pts – $20,000 – 5,200 ratings points 3rd: Jeremy Flores (FRA) 14.97pts – $12,000 – 4,450 ratings points 4th: Adam Melling (AUS) 11.33pts – $10,000 – 4,000 ratings points 40

Cestari / ASP

DU S T Y PAY N E WIN S F IR ST J E WE L O F T HE T RIP LE C ROW N

Made in Hawaii Watch Soap Take A Tour Being Made!

T a k e A To u r Made in Hawaii

Take A Tour

Made in Hawaii

North Shore Stamp Your Soap Stamp Your Soap

Take A Tour

Stamp Your Soap

North Shore

Take A Tour

Watch Soap Being

NORTH SHORE SOAP FACTORY 67-106 Kealohanui St, Waialua, HI 96791 www.northshoresoapfactory.com 808-637-8400

Heff

N e ws & Eve n t s /

NO R T H SHORE C O MMU NIT Y LA ND T RU ST

By Sean Reilly The North Shore Community Land Trust (NSCLT) rose over $50,00 at the fourth annual Benefit for the Country this past November 8th.

Team Freesurf dropped in on the party and joined over 500 esteemed community members to support and celebrate Oahu’s beloved North Shore. Gathered on the majestic coastline of the Mokule’ia Polo fields, donators enjoyed a fun filled evening with delicious food, good music and great people.

Upon arrival, we were greeted with a round of sake and a variety of mouth-watering rolls from Banzai Sushi. An open bar filled with assorted Kona brews, delicious pupus from TOWN Restaurant and a variety of live performances entertained us until we sauntered over to the silent auction.

The auction was packed with fervent donators gawking at the prized inventory. For hours, eager bystanders circled the table placing bids on the multitude of awesome prizes. And who could blame them? Auction prizes included a week for two at Tavarua, 16 beach cruisers that will be used by the top 16 surfers during the 2014 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing and then given to the winning bidders once the event concludes, Triple Crown VIP access passes, Turtle Bay Resort and Wanderlust Festival experience packages, artwork and jewelry from local artists, and so much more.

After moseying around the Polo Field and a quick double check on our auction bids, we were seated for dinner. Toasts were made and laughs were shared as we relished over a delicious array of local organic TOWN dishes. NSCLT’s Advisory Board member Jack Johnson and Director Kawika Kahiapo Yoza took the stage while we enjoyed our coconut chia pudding dessert.Jack and Kawika quickly touched up on the NSCLT’s mission and the benefits success. Their speeches were brief but their words were heartfelt. Hard at work conserving this beautiful shoreline we call home, NSCLT serves as an inspiration to communities around the world.

Since their founding in 1997, NSCLT has raised over $8 million to secure permanent protection of 1,129 precious coastal acres. If you are interested in getting involved or learning more about NSCLT, visit their website (www.northshoreland.org), or like them on Facebook (North Shore Community Land Trust), and/or follow them on Twitter (@ northshoreland). People can actively get involved and support their work by making a tax-deductible donation, volunteering at a Pupukea Paumalu community work day, and/or attending a NSCLT event such as the North Shore Food Summit and the Annual Benefit for the Country.

Heff

PROFILE /

KEANU ALLEN ASING Ewa Beach’s Keanu Asing is taking his passion to new heights, while taking us back to how it all started.

By Chris Latronic Hails from: Ewa Beach, Oahu Age: 21 Ht: 5 ft. 3 in.

Wt: 148lbs.

Ethnicities: Hawaiian, Chinese, Portuguese, Italian, Japanese Schooling: Moanalua Elm School, Ilima Intermediate, Part-time at Campbell High School, then finished with the Elite Element Academy (home school) Pre sesh music: Rap, T.I. “Go Get It” Fav. breakfast: Spinach mushroom onion omelet in a wrap Fav. meal: Thai Food & Pho Training: Nakoa Fitness Sponsors: Fox Head Inc., Rockstar Energy Drink, Local Motion Surfboards, SOL REPUBLIC, Vertra Sunscreen, Pro-Lite, Fitted Hawai’i Girlfriend: Yes IG: @keanuasing Let’s start early on, how was your childhood growing up?

Growing up was pretty simple. My mom and dad didn’t come from very much money, but we were a happy family and we were really close. My dad was a fighter for 30 years, so he was always into the fighter lifestyle. While my mom didn’t play much sports, she was just the best mom in the world. Me and my sister ended up playing a lot of sports and our parents would do everything that they could to support us. We weren’t rich in money; we were rich in love and support.

Your dad was a fighter?

He was a 3rd degree black belt in karate. All Hawai’i State Champion. That wasn’t his only job, he had other jobs besides fighting. He worked for Oceanic Cable for many years. It was good; I think a lot of discipline and respect rubbed off on us throughout our lives from being around my father’s love for martial arts.

Tell me about your first surfing experience?

Where I’m from isn’t the best surf town, so we would go surf all over the island. I remember catching my first wave in Haleiwa on the little reform whitewater section, and then I caught my first wave by myself in Waikiki. I saw Tony Moniz surf by and spray me, and I thought that was the coolest thing.

It made me psyched and wanting to catch one myself. I didn’t know what I was doing, didn’t even know how to duckdive.

Luckily, Makamae DeSoto taught me how to do that and helped me get into position to catch my first wave.

Where did you start surfing regularly?

Hau Bush in Ewa Beach has always been my home break, that’s where my roots are. That’s the first place I started to surf consistently. I was only able to go down during the weekends

Latronic

PROFILE / KEANU ASING

Keanu, digging his heels in Panama.

when my family wasn’t working. We stayed all day, surfed all day. As I got older, I would jam over there with my friends right after school and surf till dark. I’d always watch guys like Dustin Quizon and Joel Centeio, and thought they were so cool and I really wanted to be like them one day. I still go there to surf with my sister and my girlfriend, and check out all my friends out there. It’s my base and my roots that have helped shape my surfing to what it is today.

Describe the point when you realized that you were hooked on surfing?

Ho, I’m getting chicken skin just thinking about it. I remember it clearly. I wasn’t even surfing at the time, it was my sister. I was a kid just playing on the beach watching my sister surf. I really only did it because she did it. One day she won a new surfboard at the Rell Sunn Menehune Contest. It was a Rusty surfboard with the Little Mermaid on the front.

My sister didn’t want it because she was a longboarder, so my dad tried to give it to me. But I said no way with that Little Mermaid on it, that is not me. My dad says okay, and spray paints it all over and makes a sick design with a cool Tony Hawk logo covering the Little Mermaid. He showed it to me and I was like “All right! It’s on!” I remember going out to Hau Bush and I thought I was ripping. I caught a couple waves, did a couple turns and some cutbacks, it felt super good. At that point I was hooked! The feeling of grabbing a surfboard, paddling out and feeling the purity of riding waves and being free in the ocean… It’s almost like a drug now. I try to chase that feeling again, of being free every time I paddle out, and enjoy what I do for a living. I think surfing and the ocean found me that day.

46

You grew up in a progressive class of groms around your age bracket. Tell me about some of your most memorable competitive heats growing up.

I remember the first time I saw John John (Florence). The Menehune final was me, John John, Zeke Lau and Eli Olson. I was like ho! Who is this guy!? He was like Kelly Slater! Me and Zeke would just sit on the inside and John John paddled straight to the outside. We thought he was so crazy, he made me think, “I’m not that good at this haha”. John John ended up winning the final by catching bombs on the outside while me, Zeke and Eli fought for scraps, trying to milk turns on the inside white water sections. That was my first real contest, I ended up finishing last but it was really encouraging.

We ended up competing a lot over the years, Zeke, Eli, John John and even Carissa (Moore). I remember surfing with Carissa and she would just smoke all the boys. Me and Ezekiel Lau are best friends now, but before we would always be butting heads at Kewalos. Everyday just battle, battle, battle… If it weren’t for that though, I would not be the competitor I am today. Now looking back on everything, I feel blessed that we had each other, pushing each other at the youngest surfing level to the professional realm of today.

When did you know that professional surfing was the career path for you?

I always wanted to be a professional surfer. I thought it was so cool that these people could go out and do what they love and make money

from it. When I was 10 years old I got picked up by my first real sponsor, Quiksilver, and I was ecstatic. I felt like I was never that good or had a freakish amount of talent, and I had to work hard for what I wanted.

Nothing got handed to me. I would lose so much when I was young and I would get so bummed, but that’s part of it. My dad told me, “Don’t get bummed, you have to learn to lose before you learn to win.” So let’s just say I got really good at losing haha.

Tell me about some moments from the first contest you ever won?

It was a HASA contest at Sandy Beach. I made the 6-man final and it was really small. I remember getting a set wave and worked the right as far as I could. At this point I was so used to losing that I didn’t care about the outcome, I just tried to surf my hardest and have fun. After we all came in, the announcer read off the scores from 6th on up, and I kept not hearing my name until the final placings. When I found out I won, I was so happy and surprised I claimed it super hard! That moment really struck my fire for trying to do better and win more contests.

What was your next marquee conquest after that?

At age 13 I went to Nationals with my dad as my sponsor and ended up

Heff

PROFILE / KEANU ASING

getting 2nd in both the divisions I entered. That was a big stepping-stone for me because that’s when I got picked up by Billabong and started working with Rainos Hayes. I knew a little about the game and knew how to play it to an extent, but while I was working with Rainos my vision became a lot clearer. My first contest being coached by Rainos, I made the semifinals of the Pro Junior at Sunset Beach that year and that was my very first pro junior. He helped me to be a complete competitor by teaching me to play the game better by making the best decisions in my heats. That’s when I felt my career was starting to elevate.

Did you do a lot of traveling for the ISA World Juniors?

Yeah, I went to Portugal, France and Ecuador. The time we went to Ecuador I knew what I was going up against. The years prior, I saw the guys win and thought it was so out of reach for me. I mean, you have to surf a million heats just to get to the final. I just took it day by day and made it to the grand finals and Rainos told me, “You made it, this is it, you’ve done it, now you have to finish it.” When I ended up winning I couldn’t believe it. Taking Hawai’i on my back and representing Hawai’i to the fullest. Seeing all my friends and my team on the way in cheering on the beach, it was definitely a huge accomplishment in my life. After that I kind of went on a roll, won Nationals that year too. Good momentum that year, I was stoked.

THE WOR LD THE FABRIC OF OUR SURFBOARDS Dad once said that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. In the case of the new Inlay tee, SUPERbrand agrees vigorously. One night, while cleaning up the surfboard factory out back, the crew noticed how rad the tiny scraps of the surfboard inlays looked. What nice

little pockets these would make! After making boards all day, at night the scrap pieces are collected then cut up to make one-of-a-kind pockets. In fact, no two tees are the same.

Call it artisanal, crafty, or recycled—we call it a bitchin’ pocket tee. The World Is SUPER.

IS SUPER .

I N LAY T E E CHAPTER 4

S URFBOA RDS & APPAR E L . TH E WO R L D I S SU PE R .

NOW LI V E

PROFILE / KEANU ASING So you went on to compete in the Pro Junior circuit and a few professional WQS events as well. What were some of your biggest highlights competing in that run?

The 6-Star Pro Junior with Nat Young, Dillion Perillo and Chase Wilson in the final… I don’t know what happened. I had a really good rhythm throughout the event and I ended up winning one the biggest events of my life.

I remember the first big Sunset I did was a big deal. Before the event, people were questioning whether I could make it in waves of consequence. That first morning of the HIC Sunset event, it was big and scary, but I ended up having so much fun. I turned my fears into fun and that resulted in me making the final and finishing in 3rd place overall.

After that, I got into the top 100 and got into a few 6-Star Primes where I really got to see what the whole QS hustle was all about. I ended up losing my first heat but the learning experience will last forever.

I moved to San Clemente for traveling and sponsorship reasons. Also, because I kind of grew up surfing there and competing at Nationals and such, so I’m pretty well acquainted with the place and feel very comfortable there. The second year I was there was pretty tough because I had gotten so used to my parents’ support. Suddenly I had to do everything myself, from making my flights, paying my rent and bills, to making sure I was entering contests on time. It was pretty much my harsh transition from a boy to a man.

What’s it like coming back home to Hawai’i after traveling throughout the year and living on the mainland?

I think my treat for myself is this moment right now. Coming home the other day was such the greatest treat. Flying in and seeing Ewa Beach, where I used to go to school… everything! It’s just so refreshing to be home! I get to spend the holidays with my family and surf the best surf spots that I grew up surfing. I’m in a good position and just want to finish the year off strong. I just want to enjoy the moment and not lose sight of what I have to take care of and how much fun and how beautiful this place is.

Brent Bielmann

A big test was when I got into an event in Brazil and didn’t know anything about traveling or staying there. I went by myself, but luckily my friend Kiron Jabour helped me find accommodations. I got 3rd there, which was enough to get me into the Primes for the rest of the year.

Tell me about your move to San Clemente?

Finding some shade at home in Hawai'i.

S H O W

R O O M

BIKINIS, CLOTHES & ACCESSORIES

The best and most beautiful things must be felt with the heart.

HALEIWA

KAILUA

66-250 Kamehameha Hwy, # E101 Haleiwa, HI 808.637.1777

629 Kailua Road, # 120 Kailua, HI 96734 808.261.3026

FOLLOW US ONLINE Brazilian Showroom Hawaii

Brazilian Showroom Hawaii

~ NOW AT THE NORTH SHORE MARKETPLACE ~

Heff

PROFILE / KEANU ASING

Cutting loose at Rocky Point.

Seems like you’ve achieved a lot of the goals you set for yourself already. So what’s on the horizon?

Well, I really want to make it on to the World Championship Tour and be among the top surfers in the world. I believe I could compete and surf with those guys and fight with them on the top stage. I want to surf against the best surfers in the world and test my surfing limits. A world title is definitely a long-term goal, but I can’t achieve that without setting smaller goals to help me get there. I’m never going to be as good as I want to be, I’ll always want to be better. You’re only as good as you are yesterday. pau

U EY E WE A AL

R

M

KIL AUEA

PA P I O

H AWA I I

malueyewear.com

HODGSON PHOTO

DEREK HO

Jeff Divine

30 YEARS OF THE EDDIE / THE QUIKSILVER IN MEMORY OF EDDIE AIKAU

By Lauren Rolland When it came to surfing, for Eddie Aikau it wasn’t about the competition. It wasn’t about gaining notoriety. It wasn’t about talent and style.

Surfing was about a connection to the ocean. It was about the line that was drawn from his ancestral roots to the peace and pride that was found on a wave. As quoted in Sam George’s documentary, Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau, “A Hawaiian’s place was in the surf.” Surfing was one of the last traditional arts that the Hawaiian people practiced, and when Eddie surfed, it was a revival for his people.

Eddie was lost at sea in 1978, during an act of heroism on Hōkūle‘a’s voyage from Hawaii to Tahiti. On March 16, the double-hulled Hōkūle‘a set sail with Eddie and a team of navigators on board. It was a stormy day, but nonetheless hundreds of friends, family and community members gathered to see the ship off. It was an exciting bon voyage event that celebrated the culture and tradition of the Hawaiian people.

Eddie poses with his board at the Hang Ten contest, Sunset Beach, 1975.

Jeff Divine

30 YEARS OF THE EDDIE /

Before even leaving the warm waters surrounding the Hawaiian Islands, the voyaging canoe developed a leak in one of its hulls and later capsized twelve miles south of the island of Molokai. Crewmembers floated for hours in the open sea, not knowing when - or if - they would be found.

Eddie, being a strong waterman and hero by nature, made a decision to seek help. He paddled toward the island of Lanai on a surfboard, away from the floating people and debris, in a valiant effort to save his fellow crewmembers. That was the last time anyone ever saw the Hawaiian.

Hawaii, and more namely the local surfing community, was suddenly hit with the loss of a legend. At that time, Eddie was considered a representation of surfing for the Hawaiian athletes, and a figure for bravery in the waters of Waimea. Eddie and his brother Clyde were the first official lifeguards on the North Shore, notorious for never losing a life on their watch at The Bay. But it wasn’t until after his passing that Eddie Aikau became the international icon of righteousness, compassion and commitment that he stands as today.

The man is remembered as different things to many different people - big wave surfer, brother, son, lifeguard, voyager, hero, Hawaiian. It is through this legendary presence that The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau event was established.

The 2014-15 season marks the 30th anniversary of The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau. Known as the most important and respected big wave event in the world, The Eddie is only called on in the most pristine and worthy of conditions. This includes waves that meet a 20foot minimum height (40-foot faces).

Over the past 30 years, there have been a total of eight champions that have claimed the prestigious title. This means that over the past 30 years, the contest has only been called to run a total of eight times.

“The Bay will call the day” is the phrase coined to the decision-making process of whether or not The Eddie will run. Event directors, surfers and organizers know that even though they may make the final call, it’s not the people who dictate if the contest will take place.

Many claim that it’s up to Waimea Bay, and whether or not the ancient ahupua‘a will bring the waters, waves and weather necessary to uphold or exceed the conditions from the previous contests. Because it is rare for the conditions to come together, The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau maintains its integrity and exceptional reputation.

“I think what makes each year special is you never know what you’re going to get. Mother nature decides,” says big wave surfer and Eddie invitee Kohl Christensen. Fellow North Shore charger Mark Healey adds that, “It’s very, very difficult to get a big swell at Waimea that is Eddie worthy. More difficult than any other known big wave spot.” Any good surfer knows that Waimea Bay is a fickle wave, and only works on rare occasions. “The kind of window you need, the kind of interval, the 56

direction… it’s a rare beast when it comes alive,” remarks Healey.

In 1984, the inaugural event was held in Eddie’s honor at Sunset Beach.

Oahu surfer Denton Miyamura was the first to win The Eddie, which solidified his name forever in the history books of surfing and the winner’s circle of the influential event. Denton took home a $5,000 check for placing first in the 6 to 8 foot conditions at Sunset. The following year, The Eddie as we know it today was solidified.

Denton recalls that, “the excitement of the new contest dedicated to Eddie Aikau had all the invitees stoked and pumped to win it.” The win was Denton’s best result as a professional surfer and the highlight of his surfing career. “Being 1 of 8 champions for the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau makes me feel like the luckiest guy in the world!” he says. “The Duke Kahanamoku Invitational was just cancelled the previous year, so winning the inaugural Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau was a dream come true.”

After the first event at Sunset, for the following season it was decided to move The Eddie to Waimea Bay. It is here at The Bay that the contest has taken place seven more times. But it’s not the 6-man, hour-long heats or big wave battles that evoke the spirit of Eddie Aikau. Those blessed to have known the waterman can agree that surfing, in Eddie’s eyes, was never about the competition.

“You have to remind those guys why they’re there,” says George Downing, Hawaiian big wave pioneer and event director. “We let them know what the importance is… remember who the man was,” George continues. “The man wasn’t about surf contests. He was about taking

DAKOTAFAIRCLOTH

SEQ: SYNGENBINGHAM

FYASKO.COM @fyasko84

30 YEARS OF THE EDDIE / care of one other and the ocean.” So from the inaugural event in 1984 to today, the opening ceremony has become the true revival of Eddie Aikau.

“Eddie is best remembered throughout the opening ceremony, when his story is told again and again,” says Mark Healey, who has been an invitee of the event for twelve years. “Hawaiian history and Hawaiian knowledge has always been oral… it was never written down,” he adds.

Each year the Aikau family, Quiksilver and event organizers get together to plan a memorable opening ceremony to respect and honor Eddie. The story is retold and the memories flood back. The opening ceremony is reminiscent of a Hawaiian storytelling gathering - the spoken words are the imagery while the natural land is the backdrop. “Everything about this event - when it runs, the opening ceremony, the entire process - it’s always in remembrance of Eddie and his way of life,” says Healey.

On February 21 in 1986, The Eddie was held for the first time at Waimea Bay after Denton Miyamura’s win at Sunset Beach. It seemed only fitting that Clyde Aikau, younger brother of Eddie, Waimea lifeguard, bloodline to Kahuna Nui HewaHewa – Hawaiian caretaker of the Waimea ahupua‘a - should win.

And on one of Eddie’s boards too.

Clyde and Hawaiian surfer Mark Foo were tied at the end of contest, but Clyde won on a wave-score countback in the 20-foot surf.

Throughout the years, Clyde has continued to compete and perform well in The Eddie competitions, placing fifth in 1990 and tenth in 2001. In 2002, the Hawaiian surfer placed eighth at the age of 52. Clyde attributes his knowledge of surfing and Waimea big wave riding to Eddie, and returns every year for the opening ceremony to honor his brother.

1989-90 was the season that Keone Downing, son of George Downing, nabbed a crazy Waimea tube ride from Brock Little on a board his father shaped. Keone became the third champion to ever win The Eddie. With a perfect wave score, Keone recalls what that day and win felt like. “It was an honor to go out and surf in the name of Eddie Aikau, one of Hawaii’s top watermen.”

That year, wave heights reached 25-foot-plus, upholding the epic conditions from the two years prior. “I remember the year I won, I watched Richard Schmidt free fall, his eyes the size of silver dollars, because he was floating and just hoping he was going to stick back onto the wave face,” Keone describes.

Aside from his year of triumph, the renowned big wave rider describes 58

other memorable waves from the 30 years of The Eddie. “I’ve seen all kinds of rides,” Keone begins. “One year I went on a wave… just tumbling and spinning like a pizza dish… and I watched Bruce Irons behind me.” Keone continues, “I’ve seen Kelly Slater get in a barrel that closed on him, and he popped out the back like it was a 6-foot day.”

Keone and his father are living legends as big wave riders, and George continues each year as contest director. It’s his decision as to whether or not Waimea’s conditions are worthy enough for competition.

In 1998-99, at the age of 25, Hilo’s Noah Johnson became the youngest surfer in the event’s history to win the title. On New Year’s Day of 1999, Noah sealed the win in 25-foot conditions and his mark in big wave history.

Noah flew in the night before from the Big Island, rode a 9’6” Bradshaw surfboard, caught one of the biggest waves of the day, (estimated to be over 25 feet), won $55,000 and bested Australia’s Tony Ray, who took home second place and $10,000.

2000-01 saw Australia’s Ross Clark-Jones become the first international surfer to win The Eddie. Held on January 12 in 20-footplus surf, Ross’s name was etched in surfing lore as he became the sole Australian to take the Quiksilver In Memory Of Eddie Aikau title to date.

Clearly leading the event, Ross ClarkeJones had a total of 319 points by the end of his two-round performance (each wave could score a maximum of 100 points, for a possible total over four waves of 400 points). The Australian finished in first ahead of second place winner Shane Dorian (292 points), Paul Paterson in third (283 points), Ross Williams in fourth (280 points) and Kelly Slater in fifth (270 points).

In 2001-02, Kelly Slater, the most accomplished competitive surfer in history, solidified his supreme status outside of the world tour, surfed phenomenally in the waves at Waimea and won The Eddie title on January 7. Conditions were immaculate – blue Hawaiian skies and smooth faced waves in the 20 to 30 foot range. At the time, Slater had six world titles under his belt and was just one month shy of his 30th birthday.

An interview published online by Transworld Surf in 2002 documents Slater’s win. “I’m shaking,” said Kelly after realizing the victory was his.

“I don’t even know how to take it… I thought it would be close but I didn’t expect the win. I’m just going to have to sit back and think about it for a while.”

30 YEARS OF THE EDDIE /

Greg Long’s winning wave, 2009. Photo: Mike Latronic

In the 2004-05 season, Kauai’s Bruce Irons took the title on December 15. This marked Bruce’s second year as an invitee, and despite his comparatively little experience riding the waves of Waimea, the athlete dominated his heats and put on a performance that many would describe as mind-blowing. Bruce posted the two highest wave scores of the day, which included a perfect 100 on his final ride of round one and a nearperfect 99 on his final ride of the second round.

Bruce’s victory came with the 20th anniversary of The Eddie. At 25 years old, the surfer was one of the youngest athletes to compete that year.

But the win was every bit Bruce’s, as he closed the event with a perfect 100 and a ride all the way to shore.

“Seeing Bruce on the Eddie invite list was awesome,” says Big Island pro Shane Dorian, who has been invited to The Eddie since he was 19.

“I don’t think he had ever surfed Waimea when he was invited, and yet I knew he would kill it,” Shane describes. “That huge one he rode and then packed the shorebreak closeout was so raw. Just no hesitation and enjoying the moment and making the massive crowd so stoked.”

The most recent champion of The Eddie is California big wave surfer Greg Long. It was December 8 during the 2009-10 season. Massive 25foot swells marched through The Bay. Greg pulled out two of the biggest rides of the day in the final heat of the contest and bested Kelly Slater for the title. The most prestigious win of his big wave career, Greg is back again this winter in hopes of defending his title.

North Shore freesurfer and Eddie invitee Jamie O’Brien says that the year Greg won was most memorable for him. “The waves were so big, and the thing about it was it just got bigger and bigger throughout the day,” Jamie describes. “I was watching 25-foot waves come through The Bay that were just so perfect. I got to see Greg Long’s winning wave, I got to surf with Andy Irons in my heat, I shared some really cool experiences with Kala (Alexander) and Twiggy (Grant Baker) and Michael Ho… it was that intenseness that brought the happiness out of everyone that day.”

The variety of wins and waves make each year unique and anyone who’s been present at one of the eight competitions can attest to it.

Brooke Dombroski

30 YEARS OF THE EDDIE / Adding to the heavy mana vibe, the Hokule'a graces Waimea waters during the opening ceremony paddle out.

“Pono. Pono means everything is right and in its place and where it needs to be. It sums up everything Eddie would have done… in the water, in any situation, in heavy situations… Pono is doing the right thing at the right time and sacrificing whatever needs to be sacrificed.” -Aaron Gold

62

The winners blessed enough to claim a title seem both overwhelmed and humbled by the experience. Keone Downing describes how the champions are chosen: “The winner basically comes about by Eddie deciding, it’s the guy who is living up to his values in the water that day,” he describes. “A lot of times, people can get distracted with the “I” instead of the “we” and I think Eddie watches the “we”. That’s why there’s been so many different winners.”

Aikau means is Big Island big wave surfer and Eddie invitee Aaron Gold’s illustration:

Eddie is relived each year on the North Shore by family, friends, fans and the world’s best big wave riders. But this event isn’t about the competition. It isn’t just about big wave surfing. It’s about spirit, integrity and upholding the honor and prestige of Eddie Aikau’s legacy. “It’s about camaraderie,” says Garrett McNamara. “Heart,” says Kohl Christensen.

“Commitment,” says Mark Healey. But perhaps the most poignant description of all that embodies what The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie

The ocean was a spiritual place for Eddie. It’s where he went to find peace in life and where he found peace in passing. The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau will always remain a symbol of the Hawaiian waterman – Eddie’s spirit and legend lives on today.

“Pono. Pono means everything is right and in its place and where it needs to be. It sums up everything Eddie would have done… in the water, in any situation, in heavy situations… Pono is doing the right thing at the right time and sacrificing whatever needs to be sacrificed.”

pau

/honolulubeerworks

Mention Freesurf and get 10% off your order

Photo: Lester Maximo

Featuring 12 Styles on Tap! Oahu’s Craft Brewery 100% Oahu Brewed

@hnlbeerworks 328 Cooke st, Honolulu, Hi 96813 808-589-BEER HonoluluBeerWorks.com

A P E R T U R E

Jamie O'Brien / Pipeline / photo: Tony Heff

Nathan Fletcher / Off The Wall / photo: Keoki

Albee Layer / Peahi / photo: Doug Falter

Flynn Novak / Secret Spot / photo: Tony Heff

AP E R T

URE

Tom Dosland / Sunset / photo: Tony Heff

AP ER

R T URE

Kiron Jabour / Backdoor / photo: Sean Reilly

A PER TUR E

APERTURE

Dan Merkel / A-frame Larry Bertlemann on old equipment, today bringing a new vision.

E n v i ro nment /

BENEATH THE SURFACE OF BE BETTER BOARDS

By Amanda Crater

Seeing tanned, toned surfers gliding through sparkling crystal blue water seems like a picture of health – both for people and the planet – but underneath the shimmery surface of surfing lurks a slew of health and environmental hazards. It’s no secret that surfers love the ocean and want to protect the environment, so it’s hard to believe that surfing and the art behind it can be toxic.

With younger generations advocating for greener choices, companies and individuals in many industries have begun to examine existing practices and products – some voluntarily and some due to public or consumer pressure – to determine the environmental impacts of their activities. With this emphasis on eco-friendly alternatives in everything from cars and energy to household products and food, the surf industry is also stepping up to find cleaner ways of doing business. One place this trend is popping up is in addressing the use of potentially toxic materials in surfboard manufacturing.

Surfboards containing toxic foam can take a surprising toll on both the

76

people who shape them and the reefs where they break and remain.

Shapers exposed to highly carcinogenic airborne particles, as well as fragile underwater ecosystems such as coral reefs, can both suffer from exposure to the harmful compounds commonly used in surfboard manufacturing. Both the process and the product have toxic elements, something that the industry is beginning to acknowledge as shapers and suppliers experiment with eco-friendly alternatives.

Since enthusiasm for finding environmentally friendly alternatives to traditional materials is becoming increasingly popular, many shapers and suppliers have already begun experimenting with materials such as EPS, recycled foam, bamboo and nontoxic polymers.

“I am all for finding better materials for the environment,” says North Shore shaper Jon Pyzel, who has occasionally worked with epoxy boards with bamboo on the deck. With hundreds of thousands of boards ending up in landfills every year, those in the surfing industry express interest in reducing the toxic aspects of the process and the product.

“I advocate stuff like that,” says master shaper Eric Arakawa. “There have been attempts and there have been claims that this foam or that resin is eco-friendly or very safe, but I haven’t seen anything yet.”

Old school surfing world champion Larry “Rubberman” Bertlemann has been shedding light on this darker side of surfing through his surfboard manufacturing company, Be Better Boards by Bertlemann. Bertlemann, who influenced a generation of surfers with his unique style and bold

Rock

HAWAI`I’S SURF T V

All new episodes every month!

Hawai`i

Southern California

E N VIR O N M E NT / BE TTE R BOAR D S Marumoto has implemented a number of measures including using recycled materials and recycling acetone, but has yet to see anything truly eco-friendly come into the market. “I’m totally into seeing environmentally friendly things because surfboards aren’t the most environmentally friendly materials unfortunately. The main thing that I’ve seen that no one has really been able to master is making something that this company (Be Better Boards) is talking about,” Marumoto says.

As a supplier of blanks to the industry, Derek Young says he thinks shapers will be open to the Be Better Foam product and what Larry has to offer. “I’d say definitely if the price is right and the quality was there… that’d be huge, that’d be great.“ Young adds, “Of course if someone could figure out a way to use environmentally friendly materials and the price is on par, then it’s a no-brainer.”

Bertlemann teams up with AIRTeach.

personality in the 1970s, has teamed up with a California-based company to once again influence future generation of surfers.

“I have a little product, which is really, really good,” Bertlemann said.

“It’s called a green blank, which means the boards I make will not kill our planet.”

Blake Ward, chairman of Advanced Innovative Recovery Technologies, Inc. (AIRTech) has been working closely with Bertlemann and his associates in the industry to bring a new, environmentally friendly, high-performance foam blank to the market, with a purposeful push to Hawai’i. “You can imagine how many boards break a day in Hawai’i,” says Ward. “Those boards are toxic. If you look underneath the Pipeline and other places where a lot of boards break and get stuck in the reef, you’ll see that the reef is dead,” Ward continues. “And we did that in our lifetime.”

Eric Arakawa adds more insight into a shapers’ opinion of the art of board building: “Almost every single board that gets made around the world ends up going to a landfill. There’s technology out there to reduce the carbon footprint and reduce the toxicity but it costs, and my experience has been that most surfers are very resistant to higher prices.” Arakawa also adds that, “there’s tension in the industry to be responsible, but at the same time there’s the whole performance aspect of it. When it comes to boards, it basically comes down to price and performance.”

This sentiment is echoed by other shapers and suppliers who, like Arakawa and Pyzel, support more eco-friendly practices and products, but have yet to see a truly cost-competitive, high performance alternative gain traction in the market. Some have worked with a company called Marko Foam that supplies recycled “enviro-foam” blanks, including Derek Young of Poi Dog Distribution Co. and Bret Marumoto of Bret Boards. Young has participated in the “Waste-to-Waves” where people can drop off old Styrofoam coolers and packaging that can be recycled and repurposed as blanks, but he said “there are lots of cosmetic flaws with that type of material, so it’s hard to justify selling it to someone for the normal price when it doesn’t look that good.”

Since the closure of Clark Foam, which supplied more than 80 percent of the world’s surfboard blanks, most blanks are manufactured overseas where environmental regulations are more lenient. Be Better Boards wants to see that trend reverse and “take it back from the places where they don’t surf,” Blake Ward says. The transition to bring surfboard manufacturing back to its roots in Hawai’i and California would require a safer manufacturing process, something the company is spearheading with their non-toxic foam and environmentally friendly manufacturing process.

AIRTech Foam, the parent company of Be Better Boards by Bertlemann, initially formed to develop a material that would help clean up the British Petroleum (BP) Oil Spill in the Gulf of Mexico in 2010. By joining with one of the top chemists in the world, AIRTech formulated a new, nontoxic foam made from renewable resources that essentially works like a Sham-wow™ on the ocean, absorbing oil and protecting areas from contamination.

“AIRTech was our first step in finding a solution [to cleaning the ocean],” says Tim Woodward, COO of AIRTech Foam. “Our mission was to be an integral part of resolving this global problem. Since we are all surfers, and enjoy relating with the ocean on many levels, our next step was to dedicate ourselves to finding a new formula to be an eco-friendly alternative to the 100% toxic material in the make-up of modern surfboards,” Woodward describes. Born out of a genuine desire to clean the ocean and protect the environment, AIRTech’s product, “Be Better Foam,” turned out to have a variety of applications.

With Be Better Boards’ blanks, shapers can finally breathe freely and make boards without wearing the standard protective gear. What’s even more groundbreaking is that with the Be Better Board’s closed cell technology, a dinged or damaged board can still be surfed on without it becoming water logged, because even exposed foam does not absorb water.

The issue of toxicity in surfboard manufacturing struck a chord with the management team, all of who surf and grew up in surfing communities.

In 2013, AIRTech received the California Small Business of the Year Award from the state legislature for their innovative practices in manufacturing clean energy products to protect the natural environment.

Expanding the foam product into the surfing industry was a logical and carefully thought-out extension of the product’s capabilities.

76-6246 Ali`i Dr. Kailua-Kona, Hawaii 96740 (808) 326-1771

kaleimaeole handcrafted jewelry

Earth friendly • Fine Silver • Sunrise Shells • and other designs Request a private showing at our studio Tuesday - Saturday 9 am - 5 pm Facebook(kaleimaeole handcrafted jewelry) www.kaleimaeole.etsy.com klatronic96712@gmail.com

Dan Merkel/ A-frame

E N VIR O N M E NT / BE TTE R BOAR D S waiting in the wings, collaborating with surfers and shapers on an individual basis for the past five years to hone their product.

The company is poised to make some real waves in the industry within the next year. “We’ve got some up and coming amateurs riding, and winning, with our boards,” Woodward said. “We want to make sure it’s perfect before putting it in the hands of pros.”

With 200 blanks making their way from California to Hawai’i this year, as many Hawai’i shapers as possible will have an opportunity to work with the new foam. Bertlemann added that he is excited to “give all the shapers a piece of the foam so they can play with it.”

Bertlemann, old school style, new school ideas.

“We have a love of the ocean, but we don’t realize that we’re not very good stewards of the ocean if we’re paddling around on a board that will literally pollute the ocean and put [toxic volatile organic compounds] in the environment, kill the reef, kill the fish,” Ward says. “We realized we had something very special that could help [the oil spill], we just didn’t realize how big it was and how much it could help.”

BERTLEMANN ON BOARD Always one to influence the sport of surfing, Bertlemann has become a passionate promoter of Be Better Boards over the past five years and was brought on to be the main voice and face of the company as VP of Marketing and Sales.

“Larry got involved on a deep level and is proud to be a true champion for cleaning the ocean, and the surfing industry around the world,” Woodward says.

With the charismatic and connected heavyweight at the helm, the company has developed a high performance, eco-friendly foam blank unlike any others that have come before it. “Why I wanted to put my name on this product is simple,” Bertlemann describes. “It’s because I believe in it, I believe in giving back the planet better than I found it.”

As a Hawaiian, Bertlemann’s enthusiasm for this venture comes from a cultural respect for the ocean and ethical desire to leave the earth in good condition for future generations.

“You’re talking about a man who created surfing in a different way that people didn’t realize could be done,” Woodward said. “Now he realizes that he has a chance to again change surfing by bringing something that is going to be generational, so we can actually allow our grandkids’ grandkids’ grandkids to surf responsibly because of something he can help bring to the market.”

At the end of the day, it all comes down to one thing: taking care of the ocean. “I am Hawaiian, we always try to give back,” Bertlemann says.

“We love our ocean, we always take care of the ocean, she gives us everything.”

COLLABORATION WITH THE SURFING COMMUNITY Be Better Boards has been cautious to not prematurely introduce their eco-friendly blanks on a large scale – rather they have been quietly

The company is also securing a patent for a method to insert a stringer into the board without the need to cut the boards in half, which requires using toxic glue to put them back together.

“After five years of R&D done side by side with various surf industry companies, we have finally developed the perfect properties for the perfect blank,” Woodward said. “The foam density and board performance now parallels the performance of classic PU blanks that are used in the majority of production today.”

The focus on providing a truly environmentally friendly product that is both cost-competitive and high performance is something those in the industry are eager to see. Be Better Boards is a step in the right direction and will introduce a change to Hawai’i that hopefully only resonates as positive.

pau

@ follow us at I N S T A G R A M

OAHU

MAUI

Photo: Heff

8 1 5 F R O N T S T. LAHA INA, HI 967 61

1 2 0 H A N A H W Y. PAIA, HI 96779

(BETWEEN KIMO’S & CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE)

(NEAR CHARLEY’S)

808.661.6888

808.579.8882

6 6 - 1 4 5 K A M E H A M E H A H W Y. HALEIWA, HI 96712 (HALEIWA TOWN CENTER, NEXT TO RADIO SHACK)

808.637.8882

TEAM RIDER PAIGE ALMS FROM THE UPCOMING FULL LENGTH FEATURE “THE WAVE I RIDE” #thewaveiride #teamrider #pakaloha #happyholidays

u il t b ik in is b r r e l ! ba for the OFFERING FREE DELIVERY FOR ALL OF HAWAII PAKALOHA.COM PAKALOHA, THE PERFECT GIFT FOR THE HOLIDAYS

W i t h Kyl e F oyl e

Whether you’re a local surfer, visiting from afar or a pro, it’s a good idea to freshen up on the rules and etiquette of the waters and waves in Hawaii this winter season. Take it from those who know best, the North Shore’s lifeguards.

What every surfer should know before paddling out: 1 Learn to swim. If your leash or board breaks, you need to have the knowledge and endurance to make it back to shore.

2 Know your limits. If in doubt, stay out and try another safer spot.

3 Always watch the break you want to surf for a bit before jumping in. Ask the lifeguards how the conditions are and take their advice seriously.

Any tips to reading a rip current?

You can usually look at the water moving and see the rip current’s direction. Don’t fight a rip. If you find yourself in one, go with it because eventually it will stop and you can swim toward shore. Or you can feel the direction it’s pulling you and swim perpendicular to that angle. For example, the rip current at Pipe will take you parallel along the beach, almost suck you on a little tour along the various breaks from Gums to Ehukai, so you would swim perpendicular, directly into shore.

Top tips for reading the line up: 1 Watch for patterns. Watch where the waves are breaking and if you can see any rip currents.

Study the horizon to see the sets approach.

2 If there are other surfers out, watch a couple sets to see why they are sitting where they are and what the lineup is like.

3 Always feel free to ask the lifeguards about the wave conditions and specific lineups if you’re near a tower. We are watching and surfing those waves all day every day so we will have the answer to your question.

How can a surfer find the channel?

I don’t really want surfers to find the channel. It’s a huge misconception that the channel is a safe place where you can just sit without trouble and wait out whatever sets you don’t want any part of. The channel is deep water where the energy from all the waves go and ALWAYS sucks out to

Heff

DAMAGE CONTROL

sea when the waves are big. Think of it this way: Blue water (channel) — OUT; White water —IN. The white water, even though it seems scary because it’s the impact zone, will push you in. If you’re wanting to go back to shore, go toward the white water and let it push you in.

What are the major rules to follow for proper surf etiquette on the North Shore?

Be patient.

Be polite.

Pay attention.

Don’t drop in on anyone.

No staring. (Here, when you stare at someone, even if you don’t have negative intent, it’s rude.)

What is your craziest rescue story?

I work at Waimea Bay a lot. Getting caught outside Waimea shorebreak in the rip with eight people in distress that needed me was definitely a crazy rescue. I was alone, no buoy and only had swim fins on. The biggest set of the day came and I had to make a choice. I grabbed the youngest kid there, probably seven years old, and went under four waves with him held to my chest. With each wave I felt his fingernails dig deeper and deeper into my skin.

After every wave, I yelled to the other people what to do to make it through the next one.

Luckily after the set, my two other partners could make it out and started grabbing people.

I got the kid onto the beach and went back out to grab the rest of the people. Just another winter day at the Bay. pau

Brent Bielmann

G R O M R E PO R T /

ELIJAH KEALOHA HANNEMAN

By Sean Reilly Hometown: Lahaina, Maui DOB: November 7, 2002 Height/Weight: 4’5/ 67 lbs.

Stance: Regular Sponsors: Hurley, Vans, Nixon, FCS, Dakine, Mokulele Airlines, Filtrate eyewear, Hi-Tech Surf Shop, Maui Made Lemonade, Vertra, 808 Jiu-Jitsu The path to success is a long and strenuous road requiring excessive amounts of dedication, determination and talent. There has never been a more difficult time to stand out in the world of surfing than today. Maneuvers once deemed extraordinary are now industry standards – the bar has been raised. Still, hundreds of thousands of young surfers dream of becoming pro, yet only a select few make it in the top ranks. Maui bred Eli Hanneman is one of those few that are doing what it takes to make the dream a reality.

Just 12 years old, Eli is already balancing the pressures of school and surf, obtaining major sponsors and gaining national exposure. This 84

past summer, Eli reigned supreme over the nation’s best surfers at Surfing America’s USA Championships. After taking home the national title in his respective division (quite possibly the most competitive division surfing has ever seen), the 6th grade stud has been on a tear, winning just about every event he’s entered.

Modest and humble, the wonder grom credits his success to a “magic board” his dad shaped for him.

day, this kid has all the tools he needs to one day make the World Tour. Keep your eyes on little Eli Hanneman, he is going places!

The right equipment is crucial when competing, but having an expert shaper in the family isn’t the only thing this future superstar has going for him. With prominent breaks like Lahaina Harbor within walking distance, and Honolua Bay just a few minutes down the road, Eli has no shortage of incredible surf. And with incredible surf comes incredible surfers. This region hosts a multitude of talented groms that continuously push each other, elevating the level of everyone’s surfing.

What is your home break?

The closest spot to where I live is Lahaina Harbor. It’s my home break in the summer. It’s not the best break on Maui but it’s one of my favorites because it is so rippable and always has waves in the summer. In the winter I’m about 15 minutes from Honolua Bay and that’s normally where I surf in the winter. It’s my favorite.

But Eli is no one trick pony, the multi –talented thrill seeker is an accomplished skater as well.

Practicing new tricks on the skateboard by night and incorporating them into his surfing by

Do you have any nicknames?

Everyone knows me by Eli, but that’s not my real name, it’s just short for Elijah. In Maui, some of my friends call me Little Ellis. I don’t exactly know how they came up with it.

What is your favorite post session grindz?

Waffles and Nutella always psyches me up.

What is something most people don’t know about you?

When I was born I had four thumbs.

Kai Ku Hale Green Style Island Living Unique Hawaiian Art, Home Decor & Gifts

Haleiwa Town Center Open 10 am - &pm Daily 66-145 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa, HI 96712 Phone: (808) 636-2244 www.kaikuhale.com

Heff

GROM REP OR T /

What does your quiver look like?

My go to board is a 4’6 Hanneman. But it ranges from 4’1 fishes all the way to 4’10 step ups. My dad shapes 3 new boards every 2 months. I probably have 35 boards.

JANUARY8-102015 8-10 ORLANDO, FLORIDA

The Global Watersports and Beach Lifestyle Tradeshow

What is your first memory of surfing?

I think my first memory was when I was about three. I was surfing with my dad at a wave called Launiupoko. I didn’t know how sharp the reef was, or that there was wana, so when I jumped off my board I stepped on wana and got spikes in each one of my toes. I came in straight away. I was freaking out because I didn’t know what it was. My dad ran me to the bathroom and peed on it. This freaked me out even more, and it made me wonder if he was out of his mind!

Who’s your favorite surfer?

My favorite surfer is John Florence. His style is sick and super calm. He is very versatile and humble. I also like Clay Marzo. He can do any kind of turn or air he wants and land it! He can also get barreled for as long as he wants.

What or who motivates you?

My rivals motivate me. There’s no room for mistakes with them. I have a lot of friendly competition my age, such as Ocean Macedo, Jackson Bunch, Cole Alves, Brodi Sale and so on. I could write an essay of names.

Who do you look up to and why?

My dad. He’s super chill and believes in me and supports me in everything I do. He loves the same things I do. He’s my shaper and my coach when I’m not on Oahu with Joel Centeio.

SKATE

SOUVENIR

SUP

FOOTWEAR

LIFESTYLE

BOUTIQUE

SWIM

TECH

RESORT

PERFORMANCE

COASTAL GIFT

SURF

REGISTER NOW SURFEXPO.COM A TRADE ONLY EVENT

What are your future goals?

To win a world title. Also traveling the world and doing what I love.

Do you have any recent accomplishments that come to mind?

I won the U12 Surfing America US Champs at Lower Trestles this past summer. Super happy on that. I also got the Presidents Award at school in fifth grade, for academics. I am proud of both because they both mean a lot to me. I work hard at doing well in school and I am so thankful to Hurley and all the companies that support me in doing what I love.

Any last words for the Freesurf audience?

Thanks for the interview and your interest in a young surfer like me stoked!

pau

Join the backyard revolution!

Emily Nishimoto. Photo: Christa Funk

Rentals, Lessons, & Sales Meeting All Your Surfing Needs With Aloha!

Now three convenient locations...

Waikiki, Hale’iwa, and Long Beach, NY

www.moku-hi.com

IM P ROV E YO U R S U R FI N G !

PAD D L E ST R O NG E R. GE T TU B E D LO N G E R . B O O S T H I G H E R . DUC K- DI VE DEEPER .

C UT BAC K H A RD E R. SWITC H –F O O T E AS I E R . LE A R N ALL T HAT AN D M OR E WI T H T H IS U N I Q UE D V D THAT INCLUDE S O V E R 135 DI F F E R E N T E XER C I SES.

alohagrown.com Sold exclusively on the Big Island at Aloha Grown — Hilo and the Parker Ranch Store — Waimea.

AVAILABLE NOW O N DV D PURCHASE YOURS OR GET MORE INFO AT

F I T 2 S H R E D. C O M

LUANA COELHO SILVA

By Lauren Rolland

Full Name: Luana Coelho Silva DOB: May 7, 2004 Age: 10 Hometown: North Shore, Oahu Homebreak: Sunset and V-Land School/Grade: Sunset Beach Elementary, 5th grade Stance: Regular Sponsors: Luli Luli Bikinis, Scarfini Fins

Born at Kapiolani hospital in Honolulu, raised in Waialua and now living on the mauka side of Kamehameha Highway near Sunset Beach, Luana (which means ‘happy’ in Hawaiian) is gracing the lineups on the North Shore. Surfing since the age of three, the ten-year-old has an obsession for surfing that many don’t find till their teens. Focused and motivated, you can find this ehu-haired girl shredding Sunset on Bushman boards, eager to live and breathe the sport and lifestyle.

Although competition is new to Luana, she has already nabbed a few commendable results to speak of. Recently qualifying for NSSA in 2014 and competing in the Huntington Beach Pier event, the surfer girl was invited to Surfing America and made it to the semi finals at Trestles.

Placing third in two divisions at the Duke’s OceanFest this year - ages 14-15 and 12-13 - Lulu is leading the HSA Girls Shortboard 11 & Under division.

Heff

WA H IN E S P O TLIGH T /

Hitting double digits this past May, Luana a.k.a. ‘Lulu’ Coelho is a name to keep on your radar. Especially since she’s been training with Kahea Hart’s North Shore Surf Clinic to gear up for more competition. Read on to find out more about this surfer girl and what makes her a unique wahine spotlight that rips in the water.

What boards are you riding?

I’m riding Bushman boards. I usually ride 4’10 but I just ordered a 4’11, it’s my step up. That’s for this winter. I’m feeling good and looking forward to the waves this winter.

What are you most excited about for this winter season?

I’m excited about the Title Race at Pipe. And the winter swells. I watch all the Triple Crown contests and the ASP recaps on TV. Some days I wake up early just to watch them before I go to school. Watching Pipe is my favorite.

Biggest surfing accomplishments to date?

1st place in the 12 & Under division at the Live Like Sion Keiki Event on Kauai last year. 2nd at the 2013 Haleiwa Menehune event in the Girls Shortboard 7-9 division. 5th overall finish in HSA 11 & Under division.

1st place finish at the T&C Grom Contest in 2012, 1st at the Rell Sunn Makaha Menehune Girls Shortboard 7-9 division and 2nd place at the Billabong Grom Search in Kuta Beach in 2012.

Favorite wave on the North Shore?

Does it have to be one that I’ve ridden? I like surfing V-Land and I like watching Pipeline.

Heff

WA H IN E S P O TLIGH T /

How about internationally?

Kuta Beach in Bali. And then Nias (Indonesia). I surfed a right-hander sand bar that starts by the river mouth. So much fun.

What do you love most about living on the North Shore?

I love the countryside and the culture. And the aloha spirit.

Favorite surfer?

I like John John, Gabriel Medina, Carissa Moore and Tyler Wright. I like John John and Gabriel because they do incredible aerials. Carissa does these huge hacks. And Tyler, she can boost airs too.

Tell me about your worst wipeout.

I was in Bali doing a contest. I caught a set and pearled really hard, but luckily it was sand bar. I tried to paddle back out but I got caught again.

The contest was in Kuta Beach and I ended up placing second, so it was a happy ending.

Who are your closest surf buddies?

Logan Harris, Aika Dougherty, Sariyah Milosky, Betty Lou Sakura Johnson and a lot more.

What do you consider your strong points with surfing?

My turns, cutbacks and snaps.

What wave is challenging for you?

Ehukai, because it’s a sandbar and breaks super fast.

What tricks are you working on?

I want to try and do an air in at least a year.

Goals in life?

When I grow up I want to be on the WCT, I want to be a pro surfer.

Dream surf trip destination?

Tahiti, Australia, Mentawais, Paris, France… all the places that the ASP goes.

Why Paris then?

The food! I like baking goods, like sweets and brownies.

Tell us about your hobbies outside of surfing.

I play tennis. And in school I like P.E., art, social studies sometimes math… when it’s fun. I also help my mom with bikini designs for Luli Luli Bikinis. I have good taste, so I help her pick out which ones are the cutest and the best for surfing. We’re working on a new line coming out soon.

Wetsuit or bikini?

I like being in a bikini. I like to be free.

Favorite post session grinds?

Acai bowls and Crispy Grindz!

Dream sponsors?

Hurley and Rip Curl. pau

90

IN D U S T RY NO T E S ASP Restructures Qualifying Series for 2015. The Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) International is pleased to announce a restructure and rebranding action for the Qualifying Series (QS) that will take effect in 2015. The action is intended to simplify the Qualifying Series from a consumer, media, marketing and athlete standpoint, ensuring the continuation of the world’s best surfers advancing through to the elite Championship Tour where they will contest for the world title.

Moving forward, the former 7 levels of QS events will become 5 with naming designations centered around point offerings: “1-Star” to become “QS1000” “2-Star” and “3-Star” to merge and become “QS1500” “4-Star” and “5-Star” to merge and become “QS3000” “6-Star” to become “QS6000” “Prime” to become “QS10000” “Our goal with the Qualifying Series is always to ensure the best surfers are advancing to surfing’s highest level of competition, the Championship Tour,” Kieren Perrow, ASP Commissioner, said. “The changes being made to next year’s Qualifying Series are designed to enhance the process already in place and improve the experience for our athletes, fans and event partners.”

Medina signs on with Brazil’s Oi telecom team. Brazilian telecommunications operator Oi has signed a partnership with Gabriel Medina, the most successful Brazilian surfer and leader of the youthful movement of professional surfers. Medina has become the ambassador for Oi Galera in an effort to target a younger audience.

Dragon Alliance sunglasses company and Clark Little, shorebreak photographer extraordinaire, are very pleased to announce the beginning of a creative partnership. “I am excited and honored to partner with Dragon,” says Clark Little. “As a photographer who spends hours each day at the beach, protecting my eyes is critical to my work. I take sunglasses very seriously. Dragon H20 shades are epic in protection, and they FLOAT! What more can a shorebreak photographer ask for?”

Bethany Hamilton won the Mauli Ola Foundation’s Battle for the Breasts, which was presented by Ambry Genetics. The online surf video contest was held in honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and wrapped up on Surfline.com in October. In the final round of voting, Bethany Hamilton defeated fellow Kauai surfer Tatiana Weston-Webb with a tail-high air reverse to take the win.

92

Hamilton’s victory was sweetened by a $50,000 donation of Ambry Genetic testing vouchers on her behalf to Cancer Research Collaboration/ Breastlink based in Orange County, CA. “Battle for the Breasts is a great cause and also a great way to showcase women’s surfing,” Bethany said. Weston-Webb’s second place finish saw $30,000 in vouchers go to Jefferson Breast Care Center in Philadelphia, PA. The two semifinalists - Sally Fitzgibbons and Laura Enenver - earned $10,000 for University of Texas Foundation and Thompson Cancer Survival Center, respectively.

Kauai Boy Koa Smith won the GoPro of the World powered

by Surfline and $20,000 with his game-changing 27-second POV tube ride from Skeleton Bay, Namibia. The inaugural competition challenged surfers from around the globe to document their epic surfing moments on GoPro cameras with the single-best clip earning $20,000. “I’m just so psyched, it was the barrel of my life and I had a GoPro in my mouth,” said Koa. Mercedes-Benz Portugal just delivered a new surfboard to Garrett McNamara made entirely of Portuguese cork. The board will be used by pro surfer Garrett McNamara as he surfs the biggest waves in the world in Nazaré, Portugal. In addition to this innovative surfboard, efforts will be undertaken to develop yet another surfboard, to be made of the foam used to manufacture aircraft wings, a material Garrett himself has brought all the way from Varial Surfboards in California.

Speaking of Garrett, the big wave surfer recently introduced fellow North Shore pro Mahina Maeda to the thrill of Nazare. The 16-year-old was towed into her first 15-footer in Portugal and posted the photo on her Instagram. Check it out @mahinamaeda.

Leila Hurst has a new custom Vans shoe. After a year of travelling around the globe in search of the best breaks, Vans presents another vibrant collection with surf team rider Leila Hurst. The three-piece assortment combines elements of Leila’s admiration of the ocean and her inspirational travels. Whether you’re travelling the globe or searching for the perfect break, the Vans x Leila Hurst Surf Collection will rouse endless exploration while keeping you comfortable on your feet.

Hurley is now making women’s wetsuits! They will be hitting stores this month (December). Stay warm this winter in the Hurley Women’s Fusion 202 Longsleeve, Front Zip Springsuit, which features seamless paddle zones-zero restriction in high flex areas. Also be on the look out for the new JJF Phantom Elite boardshort. 21” performance fit with Livewire waistband inspired by Nike footwear help give lightweight strength that conforms to every move.

IN D U S T RY NO T E S

Noel Marchan

Realtor Associate

photo by Wayne Agsalda

SUPERbrand announces key signings. Carlsbad, California-based SUPERbrand surfboards and apparel is pleased to announce the addition of two surf industry veterans to their ranks. Joining the sales force is former pro surfer and North Shore of Oahu local Laka Burgess. A sales rep for Xcel and Filtrate eyewear, Burgess’ territory includes Hawai’i and Guam. Joining Burgess on the SUPERbrand team is former TransWorld SURF editor Justin Coté who has assumed the title of marketing director. Be sure to throw the two lifelong surfers a shaka when you see them in the water!

(808) 282-0949 www.NMHomes50.com Kahala Mall, Upper Level 4211 Waialae Ave. Box 9050, Honolulu, HI 96816

Rip Curl revolutionizes surfing With SearchGPS. Rip Curl has announced the launch of the SearchGPS, the world’s first GPS surf watch and digital platform that allows surfers to record and relive every wave they catch. The Rip Curl SearchGPS gives users insights into their surfing through personal surf data for the first time, tide and surf information at over 1,300 locations and access to the first socially-connected global surfing community.

Patagonia Creates $27 million solar energy fund. The Californiabased outdoor apparel company Patagonia has formed a partnership with Honolulu-based Kinaole Capital Partners LLC to create a $27 million fund aimed helping homeowners purchase more than 1,000 rooftop solar energy systems in Hawai’i.

Patagonia is putting in a $14 million tax equity investment while Kinaole Capital, which is headed up by former Honolulu-based Bonterra Solar executives, is putting up $3 million. Bank of Hawai’i also is a partner in this endeavor, as a debt investor, putting up $10 million. “[Patagonia] had a choice to go anywhere they wanted to, [but] they felt like they could really impact the most homeowners in Hawai’i,” Blair Herbert, a managing member of Kinaole Capital told PBN. “Our missions kind of align with one another.”

Independent filmmaker and professional surfer Cyrus Sutton raised $36,227 with his Kickstarter campaign (initial pledge of $32,000 goal) in an effort to complete the filming and production of Island Earth, a documentary about the sustainable agriculture in Hawai’i.

Since Hawai’i is a hotbed of GMO and pesticide experimentation, the islands are ground zero for discussions on the safety, efficiency and sustainability of chemical use in industrial agriculture. Through interviews with prominent politicians, doctors, organic farmers, scientists, activists and local residents, Island Earth exposes the real risks of relying on a food production system where six chemical companies are in control of the world’s most basic necessity.

Our bad. In Freesurf’s October BOMBUCHA issue, we ran an article about the shapers and craftsman of the Waialua Sugar Mill, which detailed the beginnings of the co op. Eric Arakawa, Larry Peterson and John Carper were noted as the first few tenants to move into the Mill, however, it was brought to our attention that North Shore Woodies (now known as Haleiwa Surfboard Company) was also among the first tenants to open up shop, even prior to Seaside Glassing and JC Hawai’i. Thanks for helping us set the record straight!

94

DO YOU LOVE SURFING WITH ZERO CROWDS ?

WWW.CHRISTMASISLANDSURF.COM

Noelani Studios is now the exclusive Haleiwa distributor for XCRVZ Sunglasses. Team riders and big wave surfers Kohl Christensen and Ramon Navarro enjoy these eco-friendly bamboo frames and polarized lenses. Come and get yourself a pair to protect your eyes and the planet!

In other ‘flub up’ news, in November’s “Let’s Get Critical” piece we stated that aside from the pioneering Margo Oberg, Hawai’is only ASP world champ is Carissa Moore. It was brought to our attention that Lynne Boyer should also be included in this world champion line up. Ground breaking for her time, Lynne Boyer brought a distinctive, radical approach to wave riding that inspired women surfers around the world. Both Margo and Lynne were competitors and leaders in women’s surfing and have helped establish women’s surfing to become the sport it is today.

Merry Christmas from the Choi family!

John Choi

Auto Accident Law Center Shore’s NorthNorth Shore’s Only Only Organic Sandwiches and Salads Organic Sandwiches and Salads

808.792.8333 HIautoAccident.com The People’s Choice Law Firm

R

Pacific Guardian Center, Makai Tower 733 Bishop Street, Suite 2390 Honolulu, Hawai`i 96813 attorneyjohnchoi@gmail.com

Call for free consultation

@sandyssandwicheshawaii @sandyssandwicheshawaii

Surf with a smile

Former Deputy Attorney General

Dr. John

Jones Dentistry

808 955 0058 1441 Kapiolani boulevard suite 907, honolulu, hawaii 96814

Small Treasures Silver Jewelry Design North Shore, Oahu

abbyssmalltreasures.com

L A ST LO O K

While Julian Wilson narrowly missed the win at Haleiwa’s REEF Hawaiian Pro, this 9+ point punt in the finals was arguably the best air of the event. Photo: Sean Reilly