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GOLDEN FORK FROM SCOTLAND & SUPREME CHAMPION
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At the only remaining smokehouse in what was once the busiest herring port in Europe, Jaffy’s legacy lives on
KEEPING THE OAK FIRES BURNING
IT IS TEN YEARS since this smokehouse on the west coast of the Scottish Highlands won its first Golden Fork for its Mallaig Kippers. Two more followed in 2014 and 2016. Then this year it went the whole hog – claiming a 3-star, a fourth Golden Fork and the Supreme Champion title.
Had Great Taste existed in 1944, when J. Lawrie & Sons was founded by the original George Jeffrey Lawrie, or ‘Jaffy’ as he was known on the quays and harbours, there’s no doubt the smokehouse would have even more Golden Forks to its name; for this is a business that is grounded in consistency. Neither the cures nor the smoking techniques have changed in almost 80 years.
As third-generation owner Jeff Lawrie puts it: “It’s about one family doing the same thing it has always done, using the same techniques.”
Jeff personally selects the herring at the quayside. He chooses fish that are plump and have a high fat content, as he says this makes for more succulent kippers. The raw herrings are split and pickled in brine before being slow-smoked for 12-18 hours overnight over oak shavings from old sherry casks in a traditional brick kiln.
“Combined with the delicate oils in the herring, this gentle and carefully judged smoking process produces kippers with a delicate, buttery flavour. A lot of kippers are heavily smoked, whereas ours have a very light, smoked flavour,” he says.
Much of the credit for maintaining this finely balanced flavour year-in year-out goes to Jaffy’s original technical genius – Jeff’s father (pictured here, and also called Jeff), who is now in his fifties and continues to be the master smoker. Under his stewardship, each kipper comes out of the smokehouse with the same fine texture, golden colour and smooth finish as the one before.
“Our ability to maintain this degree of consistency in our flavours and processes is mainly down to our commitment to these time-honoured techniques,” explains Jeff (senior). “I am always tasting the product, making sure the salt content is correct and changing the strength of the fires according to the weather. For example, I might open different doors to adjust the draught stimulating the fires if there is a change in wind direction.”
Just as Jeff (senior) was taught the craft by his father, he too has passed on the timehonoured techniques to Jeff (junior) and his siblings to ensure that the oak fires will burn at Mallaig for many years to come.
www.jaffys.co.uk
THIS IS A BUSINESS THAT IS GROUNDED IN CONSISTENCY. NEITHER THE CURES NOR THE SMOKING TECHNIQUES HAVE CHANGED IN ALMOST 80 YEARS. ❞
HOW TO USE:
Combine the kippers with potato, leek and breadcrumbs to make fishcakes or poach them in a pan of salted boiling water.
58 LONDON DRY GIN ★★★
58 GIN
WHAT IS IT? A world-beater in cocktails or a traditional gin and tonic, this is an artisan gin crafted to be exceptionally smooth. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? It’s delicious served as a gin and tonic with a large pink grapefruit slice or as a classic martini with a lemon twist.
www.58gin.com
MARGARITA ★★★
BAR BUOY
WHAT IS IT? A zesty and refreshing Margarita cocktail, with all the expected fl avours exceptionally well-balanced. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Shake it awake then simply pour over ice. You’ll be transported straight to the beach!. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2021): Bramble ★
www.barbuoy.co.uk
BARRY ISLAND GIN ★
BARRY ISLAND SPIRITS CO
WHAT IS IT? Blood orange and lime zest lead the botanical blend in this elegant and beautifully balanced small batch Welsh dry gin. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Great as a G&T served over ice with a premium mixer and a slice of lime, or makes a fantastic martini base.
www.barryislandgin.co.uk
BATHTUB GIN ★★
ATOM BRANDS
WHAT IS IT? Award-winning craft gin, double infused for extra fl avour. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Best served with premium tonic, lots of ice and an orange slice. Alternatively stands out brilliantly in a Negroni.
www.masterofmalt.com/gin/ableforths/bathtub-gin
WILD STRAWBERRY & BLACK PEPPER GIN ★
BLACK LODGE POTIONS
WHAT IS IT? Premium, small batch, craft gin, conjured using entirely natural ingredients for a wicked spirit beverage - 40% ABV. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Can be enjoyed neat / with ice and also makes a superb fl avoured gin and tonic, using any premium mixer. Try it if you dare!
www.blacklodgepotions.com
TWISTED OLD FASHIONED ★★
BOTTLE BAR AND SHOP
WHAT IS IT? We have livened up this classic cocktail by adding a splash of vermouth and orange bitters, as well as bourbon and maple syrup. Carefully crafted and handmade in Catford, London. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Pour over ice with a slice of orange. Delicious as a chilled digestif on the rocks. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2021): Margarita ★ Bloody Mary ★ Dirty Vodka Martini ★
www.bottlebarandshop.com
ORGANIC DOUBLE SPICED RUM ★★
BRITISH POLO RUM
WHAT IS IT? The first double spiced rum in the world. A layered, rich and smooth finish is delivered by both macerating and distilling core spices. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? We love this rum on the rocks, alongside ginger beer in a Rum Mule or indeed with cola for the ultimate Cuba Libre. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2021): Sloe Gin Liqueur ★★
www.britishpologin.co.uk
CHESHIRE CAT MOCHA GIN ★★
CURIOUS CAT DISTILLERY
WHAT IS IT? A decadent, dark, bittersweet artisan gin, blending a rich, high-quality cocoa with the intensity of a premium roasted coffee and sweet Madagascan vanilla. Enjoy rich chocolate overtones with a velvety, smooth finish. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? One suggestion is a mocha espresso - a decadent, dark, bittersweet take on the espresso martini, turning this age old classic on its head!. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2021): Cheshire Cat Signature Paw London Dry Gin ★★ Cheshire Cat White Rabbit London Dry Gin ★★
www.curiouscatdrinks.co.uk
CORNISH GIN ★
ELEMENTAL CORNISH GIN
WHAT IS IT? This gin is a smooth and classic, dry gin made using traditional methods in the heart of Cornwall. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Elemental gin is best served with ice, a good quality Indian tonic and a twist of orange peel. Alternatively enjoy in a classic gin martini with a twist of lemon.
www.elementalgin.co.uk
YORKSHIRE HONEYBERRY GIN ★
FOX GINS - NORTHERN FOX DISTILLERY
WHAT IS IT? The honeyberry is both tart and sweet in equal measures, making this unique gin exceedingly different to anything else. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Serve with plenty of ice in a bowl glass: a light tonic gives a more tart drink whilst an elderflower tonic brings out the sweetness of the berry. Garnish with lime. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2021): Yorkshire Roasted Coffee Gin ★
www.foxgins.co.uk
YAN GIN ★
LAKELAND ARTISAN
LUXURY LONDON DRY GIN ★★
GRIFFIN SPIRIT COMPANY
WHAT IS IT? Dry gin produced in our smallbatch artisan distillery in Somerset, using traditional copper pot stills. Free from artificial flavourings. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Enjoy with ice, slice and a simple tonic of your choosing, to let the complex flavours of the 18 botanicals in the gin shine through.
www.griffinspiritcompany.com
WHAT IS IT? Infused with over 10 botanicals, this small batch London dry gin is distinct, sophisticated but not overwhelmingly flavoured. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Simply enjoy over plenty of ice with Fell tonic water (a natural tonic water) and a slice of cucumber. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2021): Honey Vodka Liqueur ★ Strawberry and Sarsaparilla Gin Liqueur ★ Spiced Fruit Rum Liqueur ★★ Herbaceous Strawberry Gin Liqueur ★ Rhubarb and Ginger Gin Liqueur ★★ Sloe Gin Liqueur ★ Damson Extra Jam ★★ Damson and Gin Jam ★ Sweet Garlic Pickle ★★
www.lakelandartisan.co.uk
GIN WALA ★
LONDON SPICE COMPANY
WHAT IS IT? The original award-winning premium chai spiced London dry gin. Small batch produced, based on an original family chai recipe. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Smooth enough to drink neat with the sweetness of cinnamon and cardamom, warmth of ginger and black pepper distilled with Assam tea and vanilla. Alternatively great in a G&T with quality mixer and slice of orange.
www.theginwala.com
AATTA GIN ★
ORKNEY GIN COMPANY
WHAT IS IT? Eight times distilled London dry gin made with whole fresh botanicals, presented in a beautiful bespoke bottle. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Enjoy with Indian tonic, ice and a garnish of rosemary, or in a variety of cocktails. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2021): Sloe and Crow ★
www.orkneygincompany.com
RUM BOTHY ★★★
RUM BOTHY
WHAT IS IT? Our spiced rum is a premium, fullstrength, sweet sipping rum, hand-batched in our award-winning bothy, blending distilled and caskaged rums with spices, including saffron handpicked here in the Strathmore valley. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? With base notes of saffron, orange and mixed spice, it’s perfect on ice or in a cocktail. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2021): Hipflask Sloe Bramble ★★
www.rumbothy.co.uk
SEAWEED BOTANICAL VODKA ★
SHANTY SPIRIT
WHAT IS IT? An organic seaweed botanical vodka. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? This vodka can be enjoyed as a sipping spirit on the rocks and adds new dimensions to a host of classic serves such as Bloody Marys, Mules or Martinis.
www.shantyspirit.com
DAMSON NEGRONI ★★★
SILVER CIRCLE DISTILLERY
WHAT IS IT? Damson infused Wye Valley gin takes centre stage in this complex yet beautifully balanced take on the classic Italian cocktail. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Simply serve over ice with a slice of orange peel to garnish and enjoy this first class cocktail in a bottle. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2021): Wye Valley Gin ★ Black Garlic Vodka ★★
www.silvercircledistillery.com
MILK VODKA ★★
SOMERSET SPIRIT CO
WHAT IS IT? Our distinctively smooth and creamy vodka is made using milk from Somerset’s grass grazed cows. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Our vodka is best served over ice or enjoyed with a mixer. Our vodka also works great in a number of cocktails due to the creaminess of the spirit and can be used in food dishes too.
www.somersetspirit.com
SCOTS PINE GIN ★★★
TAYPORT DISTILLERY
WHAT IS IT? A punchy, bold gin inspired by the local Tentsmuir Forest. Evergreen notes are the first to hit your nose with a slight sweetness coming from orange peel and cinnamon. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Enjoy with ginger ale or tonic and a slice of orange. Or, why not try a Scots maple sour with lemon juice, maple syrup and a slice of ginger as a garnish.
www.tayportdistillery.com
HAKA - PREMIUM SIPPING RUM ★★
THE BOUTIQUE DISTILLERY
WHAT IS IT? Haka premium rum 44% ABV alcohol content. Distilled in copper stills I make myself from up-cycled materials and matured in American white oak casks. WHAT CAN I DO WITH IT? Haka rum is well matured to produce an exceptional sipping rum or a long drink base. Profiles: oak/ripe-banana/caramel. OTHER GREAT TASTE AWARDS (2021): Fine Cotswold Dry Gin ★ Raspberry & Hibiscus Pink Gin ★★
