The Mead ‘Boom’ Hits Alberta

Albertans are falling in love with meads. Some attribute this to the influence of popular TV series like Vikings and Game of Thrones. Others view the progression of our passion for craft beers and spirits to “Made in Alberta” movement. Certainly changing provincial regulations created a more supportive environment for this cottage industry. Whatever the reasons, mead production is booming, and we can all be proud of it.

Mead, simply put, is the alcoholised beverage resulting from the fermentation of honey diluted with water. Of course, this recipe is only the beginning. Like bread (flour, yeast, water), mead is more than the sum of its parts. The type of honey and its treatment along with the addition of fruits, herbs, grape wines, perhaps some aging in wood or carbonation contribute to the creation of styles limited only by knowledge, creativity, and talent. And Alberta has all of this and more.

Owl Grey Meadery

Photo Courtesy of Walter Schwengle

According to Agriculture Canada, Alberta produces 45% of Canadian honey. It is of high quality and comes from clovers, canola flowers and wildflowers. The seasons, the regions and the diversity of flora also contribute to subtle differences in flavours and aromas. Just like grapes are to wine, honey is to mead, which brings in an exciting notion of “terroir”.

First coined by Cistercian monks in Burgundy, France back in the 11th centuries, “terroir” is how a region’s climate, soil, terrain and even the local culture, affects a wine’s taste (or any local craft products for that matter). As such, a pinot noir in France will be distinctly different from a pinot noir in Canada because the weather, the soil, the geography and winemaking techniques are different.

Many mead producers believe in Alberta terroirs, and the uniqueness each location brings. Prairie honey is different than alpine honey. Similarly, the native wild berries and herbs infused in meads contribute to the uniqueness of the wines.

Owl Grey Meadery

Photo Courtesy of Walter Schwengle

The Alberta mead industry is still in its infancy but second to none. Old World or New World styles, sweet or dry, high or low in alcohol, flavoured with local berries or herbs – Alberta meads are delicious, approachable, easy to pair with food and the current and potential diversity in styles is mind-boggling.

Japan now imports Spirit Hill’s wines, which are appreciated for their quality and purity. The Fallentimber Meadery cannot produce enough of its “Meadjito” – a twist on the traditional mojito. Both meaderies are in the midst of large expansions.

Chinook Arch, Alberta’s first meadery, regularly earns national and international accolades including the 2018 Silver for their Ginger Bochet at the Mazer Cup International. Notable is their leadership in improving production conditions.

Photo Courtesy of Chinook Arch Meadery

The Grey Owl Meadery has promising prospects. Their mead master recently completed the “Advance Mead Making” from the Davis campus, University of California, a world-leading viticulture research centre. Grey Owl recently earned medals for their Apple Honey Wine (Cyser) and their three-year-old Tamarack Jack is carving a niche for its original approach to beer-like meads.

This summer, seek out the meaderies along Hwy 22. Check out their websites for visiting hours. They all have tasting rooms, are eager to show you around and offer you meads. What’s more, they have boutiques with excellent selections of honey and related products. If you can’t make a day trip, then visit your local wine stores or local farmer’s markets.

Be part of the Alberta Renaissance. Discover the buzzing spirit that inhabits the soul of our modern day mead pioneers.

By: Renée Delorme