25.11.2013
The Naked Truth
Gold Star Street Style
Has Nudity in Fashion Gone Too Far? August 2013; the latest issue of Pop Magazine hits the news-stands. A compilation of brilliant articles and stunningly artistic editorials, this bi-annual masterpiece is 360 pages of fashion gold, more bible than magazine. The cover, featuring an unusually modestly dressed Iggy Azalea, could easily fool any unsuspecting ‘Azalean’ into thinking that Pop is just another one of those celebtastic lifestyle magazines we’re all guilty of buying from time to time--probably more for the gossip pages at the back than for any truly insightful style advice. However, as any fashion aficionado would know, magazines like this one are definitely not for the faint hearted.
did not leave anything to the imagination. So why has nudity in fashion become so common? Is it simply a means of extending the artistic appeal of the ‘fashion story’ and celebrating the human form, or moreover, is the sometimes gratuitous and often sexualised baring of flesh just a cheap bid to create a bit of controversy? The question has to be asked: has nudity in fashion gone too far?
Inevitably, Newton’s successors have continued to push boundaries in their work; however the increasingly sexualised imagery we see in today’s fashion magazines tends to point more towards a thirst for controversy, rather than a well-executed fashion story. You only have to Google the name of the photographer, Terry Richardson, to be instantly confronted with sexually charged, borderline pornographic imagery of top models and celebrities alike. Rather than empowering the woman, such as the work of Newton, his models perform crudely suggestive poses in barely-there ensembles; his recent Miley Cyrus shoot is the embodiment of the style for which he has become most famous. And it’s not just photographers that have
jumped on the bandwagon of gratuitous nudity. Models such as Lara Stone barely feature in a fashion editorial without at least one breast on show. Yes, it’s controversial, yes, it’s edgy, but one has to ask, what is the point? And more worryingly, what does this reflect about our society? Surely this phenomenon can’t simply be justified by the ever-clichéd line, “sex sells.” Perhaps the key to this debate is that nudity will always create a difference of opinion amongst its spectators. After all, everything in fashion is subject to interpretation, just as it is in any other art form. The nudity featured within the pages of magazines such as Pop can most certainly be disassociated with the idea of sex, as the overriding mood we gain from these editorials is a sense of innocence and freedom, rather than overt sexuality. This is a sentiment that we seem to have forgotten in a time when nudity is too quickly associated with pornography. However, what is clear is that the fashion world needs to re-examine their boundaries when it comes to the use of sexualised imagery, especially in the inclusion of work such as Richardson’s, in which the line between edgy and explicit has become somewhat blurred.
This fortnight’s best student looks as shot by Simon Baker and Holly Walker
Simon Baker & Holly Walker
Nudity in art is nothing new. Works of art featuring the naked human form date back as far as Ancient Greece where sculptures of virile males were produced as a celebration of the power and athleticism of the body. Throughout our history, the nude has been one of the primary studies of Fingering our way through the the artist; take Michelangelo’s gloriously glossy pages of any David, Manet’s Olympia and of the top independent fashion Goya’s La Maja Desnuda as magazines, namely Love, i-D just a few of history’s most and Dazed & Confused, we are famous examples. It’s no greeted with the increasingly surprise, therefore, that our familiar sight of bare breasts, inherent fascination with bare bottoms and, well, you the nude would eventually can guess the rest. If it wasn’t find its way into another for their artistic context, you’d medium: fashion photography. be forgiven for thinking these full frontal images belonged In the early seventies, Helmut on a much higher shelf in Newton, arguably the most ‘Smiths. And what about controversial photographer catwalk fashion? Just recently of his time, burst on to the we witnessed four incredible international fashion scene. fashion weeks, in which the The so-called “King of Kink” sight of an exposed torso was was not afraid to make a extremely hard to miss; the stir and he became most sheer boxy sweaters of the famed for his voyeuristic Christian Dior Spring/Summer style, which often featured 2014 Ready-To-Wear collection, partially nude, stilettoed although beautiful, certainly models, posing insolently
amongst sadomasochistic props. Technically brilliant, his photographs are an amazing snapshot into a fantasy moment, often including multiple viewpoints within one image. In the same period, Diana Vreeland, the legendary editor in chief, famed for her discerning fashion eye, took the reins of Vogue magazine. In Vreeland’s words, “fashion is a show, not a service,” and it was this innovatory preoccupation on the ‘fashion story’ (rather than the clothes) which allowed Vogue to step up in line with the unfolding sexual revolution of the time, allowing photographers such as Newton to thrive.
Name: Millie Edwards EDGY GOLD STAR item: Wool camel coat (Oxfam £10 bargain!) What is yout favourite sweetie or chocolate? Minstrels
Deanne Ball
Looters’ Paradise
The low-down on Loot, Bristol’s newest vintage store
At first glance, it is clear that the shop caters for everyone, allowing a concoction of styles to hang simultaneously in harmony. The layout of the store is inviting, creating a sense of confined chaos, due to the vibrancy of the pieces and the meticulous way in which they have been divided. The sheer size of the store creates a fantastic vision, and it is clear that the owners have utilised the space, generating an approachable, fun atmosphere which would invite any
new customer to come inside. When talking to the owner, I was informed that they are keen to avoid extortionate prices, and keep quality high. Upon a closer look around the shop, this was demonstrated by the impeccable quality of the items. No shabby, frayed jumpers or moth-holed coats were to be found, only perfectly tailored shirts, and beautifully crafted playsuits. I was later informed that the reason for the quality of the items is due to where, and how, they are sourced. The managers are diligent in their choices, and hand-pick most of the items from sources they know and trust well from across the world. This conscientious attitude is reflected in their store, particularly in the quality of some of their high-brand items; the Ralph Lauren shirts particularly stood out as it is rare to find them at such a price, in such fan-
tastic quality. I was more intrigued to find that only about a third of the items need to be tailored, or altered, when first coming into the shop. And even when these items are altered, it is usually to create an entirely different garment altogether. Some oversized Ralph Lauren shirts have been tailored into dresses, and many full-length dresses have become unique two-pieces. This innovative way of working allows the store to commend themselves for being, ‘off the beaten track’. Their impeccable style, meticulous sourcing and talented seamstress allows for a beautiful shop and an extremely successful future. Find Loot just off the Bearpit at 6-9 Haymarket Walk, Bristol, BS1 3LN
Amelia Impey
Simon Baker & Holly Walker
Loot is not just another typical vintage shop, filled with generic oversized jumpers and high-waisted, usually ill-fitting, denim jeans. The store opening, which occurred last week amidst a miserable storm outside, proved that pathetic fallacy belongs only in storybooks. The shelves were stacked with a plethora of garments; ranging from simple, chiffon shirts to sequined,eighties prom dresses.
Name: Raoul Rechnitz EDGY GOLD STAR item: Acid wash jeans Favourite Cartoon? The Magic Roundabout
Simon Baker & Holly Walker