why we love the ‘90s
M
arc Jacobs is one of those designers who can’t let go of the perfection and chaos ‘90s rebels held. He has been breathing life into the pre-millennium youth culture. His grunge-inspired collection for Perry Ellis rocked the world of fashion in 1992. Suddenly, extremely expensive clothes held an entirely new appeal for young, cool people (with the means to buy the collection, of course). This is the collection that embodies the quintessential grunge aesthetic, for a high-end customer. The way Jacobs presented his vision left the world of fashion forever changed. Acid washes and styles suitable for Kurt Cobain or Courtney Love became covetable in a way they hadn’t before. Layers upon re-envisioned layers (a cashmere shrunken sweater was a signature) recalled the ease musicians and youth in general encapsulated. Suddenly, everyone wanted to look like a rock star. The best part was, they could. In a way, this masterful collection shaped the majority of visual nostalgia associated with the ‘90s. With such a perfectly balanced and effortless selection of clothing, neither the press nor the public could ignore Jacobs’ vision. Aspects of the monumental Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis collection are still seen throughout the industry, to this day. The more put-together aspect of ‘90s fashion also inspired Yves Saint Laurent’s Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear collection. The collection was incredibly similar to styles selected by “Clueless’” protagonist in her high tech closet, from the sophisticated monochromatic palette to the crispness of each piece. All that was missing were exclamations of “Ugh, as if!” Button-downs fit for Cher Horowitz made an appearance, peeking out beneath sharp blazers. Ranging from visionary to timeless, the aesthetic 40
EM MAGAZINE - WINTER 2012
of clean lines and elegance remained consistent throughout. If Cher were to suddenly find herself in the 2000s, she would, like totally, wear this collection. The universal appeal of looking polished and classy appeal transcends trends. This selection of clothing is going to be incredibly popular with best dressed regulars and style novices alike. A less grunge inclined person should look to this movement if they’re in search of wardrobe inspiration from the ‘90s. Fashion designers aren’t the only group jonesing for the era of grunge rockers and hyper-girly preps. Tavi Gevinson is an acutely aware fifteenyear-old blogger and online-magazine editor, obsessed with a decade she was
Our attraction to the ‘90s is a result of fashion’s penchant to recycle and a generation’s unwillingness to forget its youth. never even part of. Her nostalgia speaks for the powerful influence of the time, as she wasn’t even alive at the era’s peak. Self-referential and strangely in tune with the industry (for anyone, let alone someone her age), her inspiration boards have been creepily prophetic. Editors and fashion high rollers alike hail her as a savant. Attracted to the unkempt and easy lifestyle of the ‘90s, her personal blog Style Rookie is filled with inspiration boards featuring “Twin Peaks,” “Freaks and Geeks” and “My So-Called Life.” Those shows haven’t been in the forefront of conversation since they went off air, but she brings them more exposure much later. Educating the masses about things that already happened, in terms of entertainment and fashion, Tavi’s voice somehow seems fresh. A childlike wonder at the glory of the ‘90s makes readers think back and reevaluate their thoughts on the generation. Through her modern
style of communication (blogging didn’t really pick up until relatively recently), her past-inspired fashion insights ring true. Her most loyal audience, besides her teenaged peers, is the group whose formative years she champions. Tavi represents a strange combination of the culture she admires and the contemporary world we live in. Youth and freedom are powerful selling points for the 1990s. Teenagers at the time were a groundbreaking, idealistic culture. The seemingly perfect product of decades before, they followed the tradition of the ‘60s and ‘70s: youth in revolt disregarding authority and striving for freedom of expression. MTV still played music and side ponytails were nothing to scoff at. Late twenty-somethings and early thirtysomethings who have outgrown their neon spandex biking shorts long for the days when their slang wasn’t derived from the Internet. They’re old enough to be pretty successful professionally, but still nostalgic for their youth. Grasping onto fragments and pop culture is the final step they’re taking in the growing up process. Bringing back layering, flannel, acid wash, and knee socks, fashion’s cyclical nature is responsible for this recognizable set of trends. While this phase too shall pass, that’s not to say we shouldn’t tune into the newly revived reruns of Teen Nick classics and embrace the comfortable familiarity of the past. There was a certain ease in the lifestyle that cannot be interpreted in a contemporary equivalent. Technology was less engrained in society, which made things seemingly slower. Today, everything is fast-paced and based in social media. No one found out Kurt Cobain died over Facebook. It’s almost as though the past is the final frontier of stress-free adolescence. Dressing in a certain way, to remember, isn’t much different than watching your favorite old movie on DVD. A temporary transport into another time will always be appealing. Nothing seems as easy in the present, which is why the fun and lighthearted ‘90s seem like a perfect escape. For now, it totally is.