edible
No. 31 Heirloom 2013
Austin
Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season
The
HEIRLOOM Issue
Member of Ed ib le Commu n ities
速
the TRAVAASA AUSTIN
&
JANUARY 25 & 26, 2014
SEASONAL SATURDAY DINNER & SUNDAY BRUNCH prepared by Executive Chef Benjamin Baker
CANNING & FOOD PRESERVATION WORKSHOPS curated by Edible Austin
SATURDAY NIGHT DANCE with LIVE MUSIC
for event info visit travaasa.com/jamandjive
BENEFITING THE SUSTAINABLE FOOD CENTER | PRESENTED BY EDIBLE AUSTIN
People are talking .
Hilmy
Cellars
.
12346 E US Hwy 290, Fredericksburg, TX 78624 . 830-644-2482 . www.hilmywine.com
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HEIRLOOM 2013
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
CONTents heirloom issue 6
Publisher’s Note
8
Notable Mentions
11
Notable Edibles
Cooking Up Spanish, Legislative Update, Olive Oil Re-Examined, Fresh Chefs Society.
18
People
The Floreses of Mom and Pops.
20
Edible Brewing
Real Ale Brewing Company.
30
Edible Marketplace
Rosewood Community Market.
36
Farmers Diary
Milagro Farm.
40
Seasonal Muse
Dirt farming.
42
Edible Endeavors
Ming's Thing.
49
Social Cooking
Supper Clubs.
62
Cooks at Home
Suzanna Choffel.
64
Hip Girl’s Guide To Homemaking
The shrub.
66
La Casita de Buen Sabor
Grandma's piccalilli.
73
The Directory
Cover: T amales from the Galindo family (page 54).
edible PAST TIMES 24 Cultural Fold: The Austin Breakfast Taco The history of breakfast tacos in Austin.
32 Table of Plenty Wild foods on the Central Texas settlers‘ table.
44
Good Fortune Foods Food superstitions to follow for good luck.
46
The Kindest Cut Sharing the love of the kitchen.
54
The Galindo Family Heirloom recipes from four generations of chefs.
68
Heritage Grains Delve into the rich history of these seeds.
Find a full listing of our contributors at edibleaustin.com
Photography by Kate LeSueur. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
5
Publisher’s Note
WE SUPPORT URBAN FARMS
Publisher Marla Camp
“Eating is an agricultural act.” —Wendell Berry, The Pleasures of Eating
E
Associate PUBLISHER Jenna Noel
very time we lift our fork we are supporting a farm somewhere. Increasingly, thanks to urban farms, we are supporting neighborhood farms in our own community. These
EDITOR Kim Lane
farms grow healthy food, create jobs, serve as community hubs and
Advertising Director
give us the opportunity to experience the inherent value of the
Dawn Jordan
land. Protecting our urban farms is key to creating a positive economic environment in Austin. Earlier this year, the City began a process to update the Code Ordinance for our
Production Assistant Whitney Arostegui
urban farms. The process was conducted over eight months of well-publicized and
Marketing Assistant
documented city-wide public hearings and input-gathering. As with any thought-
Shannon Kintner
ful and well-considered process, it brought multiple stakeholders to the table and compromises were made by all parties to accommodate multi-faceted concerns of both farmers and neighborhood groups. Benefits to the community. The Urban Farm Code Ordinance is a city-wide ordinance benefitting all residents throughout Austin. Here are a few of these: • Long-term, stable neighbors. Long-term land stewardship is essential for sustainably growing vegetables and small livestock. Austin’s urban farmers need years to build soil fertility, provide healthy pasture and invest in infrastructure. Because no farmer can survive on sales of the fruits of their labors alone, urban farms also bring vibrant and meaningful events to life such as farm dinners, can-
Copy Editor Christine Whalen
Editorial Assistants Melinda Barsales, Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Marie Franki Hanan, Michelle Moore, Lauren Walz
Advertising Sales Curah Beard, Laurie Cochran, Michael Muela, Lis Riley
ning and cooking classes and weddings to provide additional revenue to support
Distribution Manager
the farm. This, in turn, allows them to give back to the community with farm
Greg Rose
tours providing educational outreach for schools and charity fundraisers. • Support for the local economy. Urban farms hire locally and every dollar spent on a local farm stays in the community, as opposed to the 4-cents on the dollar when you buy your food from a big box store. As Austinites influence local
Advisory Group Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Suzanne Santos, Carol Ann Sayle
restaurants to source more locally and sustainably grown food, this also drives money to our vibrant local—and nationally recognized—food scene. • Access to healthy food for all. Small urban farms throughout the city can't solve all of our food access problems, but they can help. A new “market garden” code designation provides an easier entry for producers of diverse backgrounds and an additional source of income and food for families; non-code recommendations support farm stands that have the capacity to accept nutrition assistance benefits such as SNAP and WIC and point the city towards programs to help get land in the hands of more diverse producers. The payoff. Supporting our urban farms by passing the update to the urban farm code will provide the residents of Austin access to fresh, healthful food and local jobs while cultivating good neighbors with a strong sense of place and interest in preserving not just the land but our neighborhoods. Help us celebrate Austin's urban farms during our 2013 Eat Drink Local Week, December 7–14, by taking our Local Food Challenge: Join us in cooking meals throughout the week with all local ingredients or dining at restaurants featured in our new mapped guide to farm-to-table restaurants. And we’ll see you at the farmers markets and special events throughout the week!
CONTACT US Edible Austin 1415 Newning Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $35 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2013. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.
Start planning your week at EdibleAustin.com December 7–14
Benefitting Urban Roots & Sustainable Food Center An Evening with Will Allen Dec. 8 | 7:30 PM STATESIDE AT THE PARAMOUNT Join us at Stateside at the Paramount for an unforgettable evening featuring Will Allen, the founder and CEO of Growing Power Inc., a farm and community food center in Milwaukee. Will is widely considered the leading authority in the expanding field of urban agriculture and promotes the belief that all people, regardless of their economic circumstances, should have access to fresh, safe, affordable and nutritious foods at all times. A panel discussion will follow the talk with Don Shaffer, Dr. Michael Webber, Erin Flynn, and panel moderator, Evan Smith. And after the show you may meet area farmers and shop at Edible Austin’s Farmers Market in the Theatre’s lobby. Proceeds from this event will support the historic Paramount Theatre, Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots.
Edible Austin VIP Reception Edible Austin will present a VIP reception before the show from 6–7 pm, where you can meet Will Allen and the panelists while enjoying locally sourced, seasonal tastings from Austin’s chefs, along with local wines and spirits and live music by Austin’s Bluegrass Outfit.
For tickets, visit austintheatre.org or call 512-474-1221. Presented by Paramount Theatre and the Cynthia and George Mitchell Foundation in partnership with Edible Austin and The Texas Tribune.
Get your tickets now! Bread & Circus Supper Club presents: Winter Harvest Dinner Party Dec. 10 PALM DOOR A family-style dinner celebrating all of the local and seasonal ingredients that Central Texas has to offer.
FREE Advanced Screening: Farm-City, State Dec. 12 BLANTON MUSEUM OF ART An independent film asking, ‘What if an entire city could feed itself?’ Farm-City, State is a documentary about Austin’s progress within the nation’s popular local food movement. Talk-back with Producer David Barrow and special guests will follow the film. Please RSVP to attend.
For tickets and more information visit edibleaustin.com/eatdrinklocal Sponsors:
notable Mentions
AUSTIN’S
CALLING ALL CHICKENS—FUNKY CHICKEN COOP TOUR 2014 Applications to host a coop for the 2014 Funky Chicken Coop Tour (FCCT) are now available! The deadline to apply to be a NORTH: 13435 N Hwy 183, Ste 306 (512) 249-9672 SOUTH: 3005 S Lamar Blvd., Ste B106 (512) 326-2746
Coop Tour Host is January 25. FCCT, founded in 2009, is an annual self-guided tour held each spring in Austin by the nonUse code EDIBLE10TVL13 at checkout 10% OFF A CLASS
profit Urban Poultry Association of Texas, Inc. The tour aims to encourage city residents to raise chickens at home by demonstrating the many ways chicken (and other poultry) housing can be incorporated in an urban residence without violating city ordinances or creating a nuisance. Each year, the FCCT strives to showcase a diverse array of coops displaying a variety of construction designs and materials, from recycled to customdesigned coops. Resident birds run the gamut from production hens to exotic chickens and roosters. Many tour hosts also demonstrate how to integrate chickens and their manure into household gardening and composting, resulting in inexpensive, healthy and sustainable food, even in relatively small spaces. As part of its commitment to local food and community, FCCT will donate a portion of its 2014 proceeds after expenses to New Farm Institute, a nonprofit organization with a mission to educate, assist and inspire citizens and a new generation of
.
11190 Circle Dr., Ste. 350 512-350-2271 BetterBitesBakery.com
sustainable farmers, with a focus on the urban fringe. The 2014 tour date is Saturday, April 19. Find more information about the tour, application forms and sponsorship information, as well as a plethora of resources for chicken keeping at
also found at:
austincooptour.org
Whole Foods Market Peoples Rx and more!
retail . wholesale . special events
LUMINATIONS AT THE WILDFLOWER CENTER Enjoy the natural beauty of the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, brought to life at night with thousands of luminarias and twinkle lights, on Saturday and Sunday, December
eat well.
14 and 15, from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. The event features musical acts from local performers and area schools on both evenings, plus
11th & lamar
hot chocolate and other food and drinks for
512-482-8868
trees in the McDermott Learning Center for
sale. Stroll through the decorated Christmas a bit of holiday cheer, or visit the Gift Store for book signings by local authors and illustrators. Kids are invited to meet Frosty the Snowman and make crafts in the Visitors Gallery. Admission is free
winkrestaurant.com 8
HEIRLOOM 2013
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
with a donation of two canned goods for the Capital Area Food Bank. Visit wildflower.org/luminations for more information.
Photography by Jenna Noel
GLUTEN FREE AND VEGAN DESSERTS!
FOURTH ANNUAL TAMALES! FESTIVAL AT PEARL The fourth annual Tamales! festival, an all-day celebration of family, food and fun, returns to Pearl on Saturday, December 7 from noon to 6 p.m. Guests are invited to explore a Mexican-style streetscape full of the sounds,
Gift Baskets & Gift Sets
Make the perfect stress-free gifts this holiday season Call (512) 637-9545 or stop by the shop to order yours today!
sights and tastes of the holiday season, along with a full range of tamale styles, from traditional San Antonio classics to South American to sweet, vegetarian and more. Visit atpearl.com/tamales for
3663 Bee Cave Rd. Austin, TX 78746 VomFassAustin.com • Facebook.com/VomFassAustin
more information.
Luminations at the Wildflower Center Saturday & Sunday December 14 & 15
SAVE THE DATE: 2014 EAST AUSTIN URBAN FARM TOUR
6 to 9 p.m. Free admission with donation to the Capital Area Food Bank
Save the date for a tour taking you through four of East Austin’s urban farms, plus a cornucopia of local food and drink brought to you by local chefs, brewers, wineries and distillers, on Sunday, April 13. Visit eastaustinurbanfarmtour.com for details and updates.
www.wildflower.org
4801 La Crosse Avenue • 512.232.0100
SOIL • COMPOST • MULCH • FERTILIZERS • TREES • PLANTS • ROCK • BAG & BULK PRODUCT • POTTERY • GIFTS
Jam & Jive with Edible Austin At Travaasa Celebrate the Winter season with a weekend of learning and fun at Jam & Jive, presented by Edible Austin at Travaasa Austin, January 25 and 26. Learn how to preserve the winter harvest bounty with workshops on canning and food preservation by EA columnist and Hip Girl’s Guide to Homemaking author Kate Payne, enjoy a seasonal dinner prepared by Travaasa Executive Chef Benjamin Baker, then dance the night away with live music from the 1920s
make it a GREEN CHRISTMAS Deck the halls with natural and local live
and professional dance les-
Christmas trees and poinsettias from one
sons. Experience a total
of our 7 locations across Central Texas.
getaway with overnight accommodations at Travaasa
Get a discount off your next purchase
then join us for a jammin’
by entering the code GREENCHRISTMAS at
Sunday Brunch and tours
www.garden-ville.com/reaprewards.
of the Travaasa farm. Visit travaasa.com /jamandjive for event details and ticket information. Proceeds from this event will benefit the Sustainable Food Center. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
9
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HEIRLOOM 2013
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notable EDIBLES Eat Your Words
L
earning a new language can seem like an insurmountable challenge, but the team at Cooking Up English shows that pairing
new vocabulary with food can make it easier to digest. This local nonprofit has been teaching nonnative speakers English through cooking classes since 2010, and launched a new series in May,
OPEN 7 DAYS | DINNER | HAPPY HOUR | BRUNCH
1500 South Lamar | BarlataAustin.com
Cooking Up Spanish, for people who want to learn Spanish while also mastering the cuisines of Spain, Mexico and Latin America. “Learning a new language is about more than memorizing words,” says board president Casey Smith. “You learn so much history and the values of a community through food. It helps people connect the culture with the language.” Cooking Up Spanish offers five different themed series, each five weeks in length. Students learn common Spanish phrases and terms while making traditional dishes like homemade tortillas, chilaquiles, pan dulce and tapas. Six volunteers excited to share their language and food with non-Spanish speakers teach the classes, with the help of three guest instructors who are former Cooking Up English students. Each series costs $175, and 40 percent of the fee underwrites the tuition of Cooking Up English classes, which are priced on a sliding scale based on income.
m a de
The popularity of the Spanish series has sparked develop-
Home for the holidays
ment of more foreign-language classes with help from former students. “The last week of the English classes, we ask students to provide a recipe from their home country,” says Smith. “With students representing over 15 countries and 11 languages, we realized we could create classes for more than Spanish.” Cooking Up English will continue its Spanish series in 2014, and also launch French, Russian and Arabic classes. In addition,
lick
(actually, every day!)
honest ice creams
they’re actively working on a curriculum for a Mandarin class, which will round out a full program offering of the six official languages of the United Nations—one delicious word at a time. —Kristi Willis
2032 South Lamar Boulevard Austin, Texas
ilikelick.com
Photography of assistant class instructors Julian and Nancy Rojas by Pauline Forgeard
Find out more at cookingupspanish.com
H
ILL
SID
E
FARMACY L O C A L
E AT E R Y
OPEN BREAKFAST, LUNCH & DINNER. SUPPORTING AUSTIN FARMS 1209 EAST 11TH ST, AUSTIN | 9AM -11PM {512.628.0168} HILLSIDEFARMACY.COM
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
11
2013 Legislative Updates
L
Craft-distillery bills, which took effect Sept. 1, 2013 S.B. 828: Sets up a distiller’s agent permit, which authorizes an
ocally grown and artisanal foods and beverages were front
agent to act on behalf of distillers to conduct samplings at retail
and center on the minds of state legislators during the 83rd
stores and to take orders from wholesale distributors.
legislative session. Not only did a number of bills get passed that will provide greater freedoms and support for local farmers and food producers, but the state’s craft brewers and distillers also got an economic boost from several bills of their own. Achievements at a glance:
Craft-beer bills, which took effect June 14, 2013 Senate Bill (S.B.) 515: For the first time, brewpubs can now sell their products off-site thanks to this bill, whereas previously, their products could only be consumed on premises. It also raises their manufacturing limit from 5,000 to 10,000 barrels a year, and allows them to sell their products to wholesale distributors for resale. In addition, up to 1,000 barrels of that limit can now
S.B. 642: Allows distillers to sell their product in bulk to food producers who manufacture their foods using spirits as an ingredient. S.B. 652: Allows distillers to buy bulk alcohol products from other manufacturers for manufacturing purposes. S.B. 905: Allows distillers to sell up to 3,000 gallons per year of their spirits for on-site consumption. They also may sell up to 3,500 gallons of their spirits per year for off-site consumption, as long the spirits are packaged in unopened bottles no larger than 750 milliliters, with commemorative labels, and are sold and limited to two per customer in a 30-day period, among other requirements.
be sold directly to retailers. S.B. 516: Previously, brewers who brewed less than 75,000 barrels per year were allowed to distribute any of that amount to retailers, but those who brewed more than that had to go through a distributor exclusively. With the passage of this bill, however, if a brewer manufactures less than 125,000 barrels per year, they may obtain a distribution permit, which allows them to sell up to 40,000 of those barrels to retailers directly (starting January 1, 2014). S.B. 517: The same rules as S.B. 516, but it applies to manufac-
“It’s a major achievement to get three bills through the Texas Legislature. There is strong bipartisan interest in what’s going on with the local foods movement.” —Judith McGeary, executive director of the Farm and Ranch Freedom Alliance.
turers of ales, whose product contains alcohol levels of greater than 4 percent. S.B. 518: For the first time, small breweries can sell up to 5,000
Local food bills, which took effect September 1, 2013
barrels per year to consumers on-site, as long as they produce
House Bill (H.B.) 970: Picks up on Senate Bill 81, which passed
less than 225,000 barrels per year and meet certain other condi-
in 2011 and allowed home-based production of baked goods and
tions.
a few other foods not requiring refrigeration, as long as they
Charles Vallhonrat, the executive director of the Texas Craft Brewers Guild, says these new bills are important for the future of craft beer in Texas. “Economically, we really wanted to push these bills through to be able to grow an industry that’s booming nationwide,” he says. “It’s doing well in Texas, but we wanted to take some of the handcuffs off.”
were sold on-site and did not amount to more than $50,000 per year in sales. In response, various municipalities used zoning ordinances to ban these home-based operations. Therefore, H.B. 970 prohibited zoning ordinances from being used for this purpose, while also expanding the list of permissible foods and adding several new safety requirements. The law also allows these foods to be sold both on-site as well as at other specified off-site locations, such as farmers markets and food festivals.
“This is an exciting time for Texas craft distilleries. Craft distillers will be given more opportunities to grow and promote their unique spirits. This will allow our local distilleries to be increasingly recognized across the United States.” —Scott Stewart, executive director of the Texas Distilled Spirits Association 12
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H.B. 1382: Allows farm-stand operators and vendors at farmers markets to provide samples to their customers, as long as the items are prepared and served in a way that meets certain safety requirements. The bill also allows cooking demonstrations at farmers markets and waives permitting fees for them as long as they are for bona fide educational purposes and meet certain other requirements. H.B. 1392: Requires the Department of State Health Services to provide information to farmers and food producers about what they are legally required to do within 30 days of receiving a written information request. —Nicole Lessin
Welcome to our Wine Wonderland.
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OLIVE OIL RE-EXamined
I
mported olive oils are often subsidized and sometimes adulterated and mislabeled as “extra-virgin” because of a lack of stan-
dards enforcement. High-quality domestically produced olive oils
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are unsubsidized, yet they still have to compete on the supermarket shelves with their competitors’ lower prices. Meanwhile, the American public remains largely unaware of these factors as their purchasing power continues to swell globally, with the United States currently being the second-largest importer of olive oil. These are some of the findings detailed in the United States International Trade Commission’s report entitled Olive Oil: Conditions of Competition between U.S. and Major Foreign Supplier Industries. “The report gives our government a more objective understanding of our industry, and it gives us a platform from which to establish a dialogue about what the next steps are for the American olive oil industry,” says Karen Lee Henry, managing director of the Texas Olive Oil Council and a partner at Texas Olive Ranch, the largest olive oil producer in the state. According to the report, enforcement doesn’t currently exist for international or USDA standards for extra-virgin olive oil, which
for the love of the kitchen
may give an incentive to some producers to misrepresent the quality of their product. “Official USDA olive oil standards exist but are merely definitions of grades,” the report states. “Currently, there is
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no mechanism to enforce these grades, no government agency that collects and tests random samples of oils, and no penalty for noncompliance with the standards. As a result, studies have found that oils purchased by U.S. consumers that are labeled as extra-virgin often do not meet extra-virgin criteria.” All too often, says Henry, people in the U.S. don’t know the differ-
Heal Yourself & Others
ence between a fresh olive oil with the distinctive flavor profiles of its
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farm and an older one that may have been adulterated. “Americans did not grow up with a legacy of olive oil production,” she says. “Once
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they’ve tasted [fresh olive oil], it’s like the entire world changes. It’s
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this kind of market is profitable and growing, but limited. “High-
like when you went from watching black-and-white TV to color.” The report also conveys that U.S. producers—those from Texas included—tend to focus on producing high-quality, extra-virgin olive oils that appeal to a small niche of informed consumers. Henry says quality, extra-virgin olive oil that’s fresh is only available in very limited circumstances…and there’s a robust market for that in Texas,” she says. “But if you tried to sell your olive oil at the price you can get for it as an artisanal producer on the shelf at any kind of regular grocery store, you’re competing directly with an imported olive oil, and most customers will look at that and not see any significant difference, and therefore make a decision based on price.” Jack Dougherty, owner of First Texas Olive Oil Company, which sells its olive oils exclusively at its Bella Vista Ranch in Wimberley, is not convinced that more regulation would be beneficial, or that labeling rules need to be changed. “We have to develop consumer awareness,” he says. “Instead of fighting over who is making the money and who is getting what, we should be focused on educating the consumer about the benefits of good olive oil…explain to the world how good olive oil is and they will beat a path to your door.” —Nicole Lessin
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HEIRLOOM 2013
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
15
G
etting teenagers who
of Fresh Chefs widened to
are transitioning out of
include not only vocational
the foster care system into
training but also life-skills
the kitchen to cook with area
education—such as shop-
chefs made sense to Shalei-
ping at a grocery store,
ah Fox and McCall Johnson,
eating healthful foods and
the cofounders of Fresh
even stocking a pantry. Of-
C h e f s S o c i e ty , a ye a r -
ten, the events culminate
and-a-half-old organization
in a shared meal with par-
dedicated to empowering
ticipating youth and volun-
youth through the culinary
teers sitting down together
arts. Vocational training in
to eat a fresh, locally grown
the area of food preparation
meal they helped prepare,
would provide these young
on tables covered with real
people with valuable career
tablecloths and even fresh-
skills, and many of the pro-
cut flowers. “We want them
fessional chefs participating
to feel like they are deserv-
in the program, including
ing of sitting down and
Dan Stacy, Barbara Frisbie,
eating like this,” Johnson
Rebecca
explains. “It’s such a great
Meeker,
Sonya
way to build memories.”
Coté and others, have their
Daetrion White, an ap-
own non-traditional backg rounds—providing
prentice with the program
the
advantage of more instant connections and even longterm mentoring relation-
Fresh Chefs Society participants (left to right): Chef Rebecca Meeker, cofounder Shaleiah Fox, Destiny Walker, cofounder McCall Johnson, Frida Ramirez, Julie Sanchez, Vickie Johnson
who says he first learned to cook with his aunt, says Fresh Chefs Society gives him many opportunities to
ships with the students. But after meeting with representatives from the social-servic-
get into the kitchen—something he normally is not permitted to
es agencies that serve foster-care youth, Fox and Johnson began
do in his foster home. “It’s really good,” he says. “It helps me be
to realize that exposure to the world of food would also educate
able to get out more and do something I love to do. They help me
these teens in a more basic way. “What we kept hearing was: OK,
realize that I’m in foster care, but I don’t have to be, like, stuck
this is great, but you’re going to get the superstars,” recalls Fox, who
there forever.”
has a master’s degree in social work and went through foster care
Since August of 2012, Fresh Chefs Society has held 48 events
herself. “You’re going to get the youth who will probably do all right
and given approximately 250 foster-care youths a variety of cu-
with or without your program. Really, what we need is cooking edu-
linary opportunities, including interactive cooking demonstra-
cation. We need food-accessibility resource information. We need
tions and tastings, apprenticeships with professional catering
them to basically learn how to go out to dinner.”
companies and chefs, nutrition education and other life skills. In
This dovetailed with what Fox already knew from her own ex-
addition, the organization successfully helped lobby state legis-
periences both in the system and as a volunteer. Many shelters
lators for a bill that was recently passed requiring more nutri-
have centralized kitchens with a limited number of staff mem-
tion and cooking education for youth aging out of the foster-care
bers, who are unable to take the risks associated with young peo-
system. But Fox says she is also focused on what grows out of the
ple cooking. In many foster homes the situation is similar. “I know
programs. “Our long-term goal is through food—just us sitting
some youths in homes where they actually put locks on refrigera-
around cooking. Our supporters are talking to our youths, and
tors,” she notes. “And it’s not that foster parents are bad people.
they figure out they have something in common and they con-
They are [often] dealing with eight to ten foster children with
tinue a relationship past that cooking event,” she notes. “What
completely different issues such as eating disorders, hoarding,
I always say is: even if it’s just once or twice, you still planted a
binging…things like that. So they definitely have to have some
seed. There’s a good chance you’re going to be the one piece of
sort of system.”
stability in that youth’s life, and if you don’t do anything else but
All too often, this lack of exposure to the world of food results in sky-high obesity rates among former foster-care youth, and a lack of preparation for living in the real world. Thus, the scope
16
HEIRLOOM 2013
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
just show up when you say you’re going to show up, that speaks volumes.” —Nicole Lessin Visit freshchefssociety.org for more information.
Photography by Thomas Winslow
Fresh Chefs Society
The responsibility of sustainability.
We believe in using locally sourced ingredients in our Culinary Arts and Pastry Arts Programs. We provide individualized hands-on instruction with the classic Escoffier foundation, The Farm To Table速 Experience, and a focus on sustainability.
Visit our campus and learn more about our professional programs today.
6020-B Dillard Circle Austin, Texas 78752 Ph: 512-451-5743 farm2tableaustin.com / facebook.com / escoffierschool For more information about our graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed the program, and other important information, please visit www.escoffier.edu/disclosures.
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9/13/13 1:20 PM
Most celebrated market in Central Texas!
620 S Bee Caves/Farm to Market Rd. The Shops at Galleria Sh . op s P k wy
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PEOPLE
The Floreses by M e r e d i t h B e t h u n e • P h oto g ra p h y by M e l a n i e G r i z z e l
F
or Laura and Manuel Flores, perfecting the intricate balance between tangy citrus and sweetened milk for their Orange You Dreamy frozen pop has been one of the easier parts of owning a small business. As parents of two young children, the couple had always pondered business ideas that could create flexibility for their family. Then in 2008, they began to realize their dream by selling frozen pops at South Congress Ave-
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nue’s First Thursdays and at the Barton Creek Farmers Market under the name PopSoCools. Of course, as is the case with many small businesses, there have been a few setbacks, some of them devastating—like a necessary name change for the business. But the couple deeply believes in their product, and their company and positive attitude have persevered. “We really want to be known as Austin’s original, all-natural frozen pop,” says Manuel.
Hailing from opposite ends of the Texas-Mexico border—Manuel from El Paso, Laura from Brownsville—both grew up eating icy paletas (Mexican-style frozen pops) in flavors like lime and coconut. Unable to find comparable pops made only from fresh fruit, sugar and water, they started making their own at home. “Everything that goes into them is natural,” says Laura. “No chemicals, no nothing.” For the past three years, the Floreses have sold their pops at farmers markets, local retail stores and special events, under the new name Mom & Pops. And even though business is good and demand consistent, they’re choosing to keep the enterprise on the small side. “We’d lose the quality of the product scaling up for supermarkets,” Laura explains. “When we say ‘small batch,’ we mean small batch.” There are about 20 Mom & Pops flavors that rotate seasonally. “Since we’re moving into fall now, we’ll be doing some flavors like Texas Pecan Pie,” Laura says. The pops are made using pies baked from scratch, with local pecans, that are crumbled into chunks and mixed into a creamy base. Chocolate Peppermint will be available for the holiday season and their Chocolate-Covered Strawberry pop is a big hit for Valentine’s Day. The couple particularly values using local ingredients—especially those procured from other farmers market vendor pals. They’re currently collaborating on a kombucha pop with the folks from Buddha’s Brew, for instance. “That’s the great thing about working at the farmers market,” says Laura. “You make friends and team up to make good food.” Because of this perk, the couple is committed to staying at the markets no matter how their company evolves. “Starting at the farmers market, and staying there, has been crucial for us as part of this grassroots effort to improve people’s health,” says Manuel. Since both Manuel and Laura have full-time day jobs outside of the pop business, they recently hired employees to help at the farmers markets and in the kitchen. “We call our team ‘pop stars,’” Laura says with a smile. “We’re ready to start handing off our duties to create jobs.” Occasionally, customers can spot the Floreses’ children—Catalina, age 8, and Ivan, age 6—greeting at the markets, too. And Ivan has even started experimenting with pops in the kitchen. “He’s been making his own,” Manuel boasts. “He’s a junior popsocologist.” As for the future, Manuel and Laura dream of laying a foundation for future generations. “We hope that we can pass on our knowledge to them, whether they continue in the business or not,” says Manuel. Ultimately, the Floreses would like to advise other small-business owners just starting out. “We’d like to help people in a similar position,” says Manuel. “We didn’t have huge savings,” Laura adds. “Just a little bit of money.”
Custom Food Programs www.Dishalicous.com
Five years later, money still isn’t their focus. Laura emphasizes the importance of staying loyal to their customers by providing a quality product with a friendly touch, and by “doing it in an honest, not greedy, kind of way.” And they’re incredibly thankful to the Austin community for embracing their work. “Something that we created is bringing people joy,” Manuel says. “It’s pretty amazing that we can do that.”
Available at Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Wright Bros. Brew & Brew and Jo’s Coffee
For more information, visit themomandpops.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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edible Brew
Real AlE by Lay n e V i cto r i a Ly n c h • P h oto g rap h y by K e l ly Ru c k e r
I
t’s no secret that Aus-
I’m sure that has something
tin-made brew is in the
to do with the increase of
thick of a cultural revo-
local breweries,” he says.
lution. In just a few short
“Their growth has in turn
years, a handful of outlying
helped us, and we’re all
craft breweries have trans-
working together to inspire
formed into an epicenter
people to drink local Texas
of astoundingly diverse,
beer.”
creative entities with such
Years before Farbstein
leaders as (512) Brewing
acquired the Real Ale brew-
Company, Austin Beer-
ery, he often escaped to
works and Hops & Grain.
home brewing in his college
With the recent changes
apartment while studying
in Texas alcohol legisla-
economics at the Univer-
tion—allowing breweries
sity of Texas at Austin. Ma-
to sell and serve directly
nipulating such ingredients
on-site—the industry is at
as hops, grains, water and
a tipping point.
yeast, Farbstein honed a sig-
Without original found-
nature collection of home-
ing fathers like Real Ale
made brew for his lacrosse
Brewing
and
teammates to kick back and
Live Oak Brewing Com-
critique. “I’ll be honest and
pany,
Texas
say what initially attracted
brews wouldn’t resemble
me to home brewing was
even a shade of what we’re
the fact that, at 19, it was il-
sipping and savoring to-
legal for me to buy beer but
day. Alongside historic,
I could buy hops and bar-
pride-inducing
ley,” Farbstein admits. “As I
Company however,
entities
got more into it though, it
like Spoetzl Brewery and Lone Star Brewing Company, Real Ale has encouraged Texas
became this incredibly challenging process. It feels so methodi-
to fertilize and ferment an award-winning beer culture that
cal to take these very basic ingredients and transform them into
grows in diversity and flavors as the years go by.
something that really fascinates people. To this day, that’s what
Of course, behind every well-made product is a visionary,
inspires me.”
and for Real Ale that creative genius is Brad Farbstein. With a
Years of hustling and bustling as a local distributor for Hous-
team of nearly 60 employees, Farbstein has evolved the Blanco-
ton’s Saint Arnold Brewing Company and Austin’s now-closed
based company from a little-known brewery that produced an
Microbility Beverage eventually led Farbstein to a fated encoun-
average of 500 barrels of beer a year in 1998 to a bustling brand
ter with Philip and Diane Conner of Real Ale, with whom he
that is predicted to reach 55,000 barrels by year’s end. “We’ve
began to formally work in the late ’90s. “I really appreciated their
seen almost a 30 percent growth rate over the past year, and
commitment to high-quality ingredients and consistency with
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“We want to focus on being innovative, creative, nimble and flexible. Once you start focusing too much on growth, you inevitably lose your passion.” —Brad Farbstein their beers,” he says. “I honestly think that’s what has helped [Real
and seasonally inspired options like the smooth Coffee Porter and
Ale] become what it is today. We don’t obsess over expansion; instead,
the toffee-sweet, caramely Phoenixx Double Extra Special Bitter.
we focus on creating a product that tastes the same every time.”
One thing Farbstein never plans to do, however, is force his Blanco-
It only seemed fitting, then, that when the Conners decided to sell
based products beyond state lines into unfamiliar territory. “We’re
their young brewery in 1998, Farbstein seized the opportunity to man-
in Texas and that’s how I want to keep it. I once heard someone say
age the brand. With a portfolio of extremely successful Whole Foods
that pigs get fat and hogs get slaughtered, and I absolutely agree
Market stock Farbstein had purchased when he was 11 years old and
with that assertion. We want to focus on being innovative, creative,
a promise for additional profits to come, he bought the historic brew-
nimble and flexible. Once you start focusing too much on growth,
ery from the Conners—bringing the establishment to heights even he
you inevitably lose your passion.”
could have never imagined over the following 15 years.
In the coming months, Real Ale plans to draw on their beverage
The first growth spurt under Farbstein’s wing came with the
creativity and innovation by rolling out additional seasonal and lim-
creation of Real Ale’s most popular beer: Fireman’s #4—a smooth
ited-edition flavors along with the long-awaited tasting room on the
blonde ale inspired by a playful collaboration between Farbstein
second floor of their brewing facility. In the spacious tasting room,
and his bike-craftsman buddy, Greg Mundy of Fireman’s Texas
patrons will be able to sip and savor flavorful, fragrant beers while
Cruzers. “That is the fourth beer in our lineup and it comprises
watching the strenuous production process below and the sprawling
sixty percent of our sales. It’s a great beer…real balanced, hoppy
Hill Country landscape. “We struggled for years to get a bill passed
and appeals to a wide range of beer drinkers.”
that would allow us to do something like this,” Farbstein says. “It’s
Through the years, more members have been added to the eclec-
relieving to see all that energy, support and focus everyone in the
tic family tree, including the full-bodied, award-winning and spicy
industry put into this legislation is finally paying off. I feel like we’re
Rio Blanco Pale Ale, the aromatic, citrusy-sweet Devil’s Backbone
about to see an even greater expansion of Texas breweries.”
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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
COOKS! 2010
23
edible TEX-MEX
Cultural Fold: The Austin Breakfast Taco by L es M cG e h e e • P h oto g rap h y by M e l a n i e G r i z z e l
H
ola, Joe’s Bakery, with your politeness, your cleanliness,
spoon. Especially if you’re eating a runny egg! Growing up, we’d eat
your respect for the traditions that make our Austin lives
tacos for breakfast…but not with eggs. We’d had lots of tacos that
rich. Inside, patrons greet one another with “Hello, sir!” and
street vendors made on their discos, which are like Mexican woks. In
“You tell George I know he’ll feel better soon.” Someone shakes a
El Paso, we had breakfast burritos, but the breakfast taco is definitely
hand; someone hugs a waitress like a sister. This place is part heav-
sort of an Austin/San Antonio thing. It wasn’t until I came to Austin
enly taqueria and part community hub, papered wall-to-wall with
in 1995 that I found out this whole thing about the breakfast taco.
museum-worthy photos of old Austin. And at each booth, diners roll and scoop tortillas into their breakfast plates—a visual hint at the evolution of what has become the holy grail of Central Texan handheld foods. It’s just the right atmosphere to sit down with tacoculture guru Mando Rayo about the new book he’s coauthored with Jarod Neece entitled Austin Breakfast Tacos: The Story of the Most Important Taco of the Day. In the book, Rayo and Neece tell how the great Hispanic restaurant families of Austin took a dash of Texas and a dollop of entrepreneurial perseverance, steeped them in the traditions of their abuelas, and created the glorious breakfast-taco scene that is as near to an Austinite’s heart as live music and Barton Springs. Rayo places his
[While Rayo is talking, a gentleman walks up. They shake hands vigorously and quickly recap where they’ve been eating breakfast lately. Overlapping bilingual conversation speeds by: Hola! How you doin’? You been away from la familia traveling? Where you been? What day you back? Andale! Let’s get together. It turns out that the gentleman is none other than Virgil Limon, of the Limon family that Rayo includes in the book—a huge old-Austin family that owns several local businesses and includes multiple generations of musicians. Could this be anywhere else but Austin?]
EA: So, Austin versus San Antonio. Breakfast tacos. Who wins?
order with the waitress: “Puro tacos para mi. Uno es de huevo, frijole y
MR: Well, if you want great traditional tacos, you’ll find a lot of
tocino, and el otro me da uno bean and cheese”—a perfect illustration
them in San Antonio. But if you want to find great breakfast tacos
of the blend of traditions we’re about to enjoy. Then he proceeds to
that kind of go in a new way, you want to go to Austin. Austin owns
expound on the cultural, regional and economic ramifications of the
the breakfast taco. San Antonio will say they have the best tortillas,
breakfast taco, and the many reasons he calls Austin “the Breakfast
or the best puffy tacos and regular tacos, but in Austin, we are pas-
Taco Capital of the World.”
sionate about our breakfast tacos.
Edible Austin: Flour or corn? Mando Rayo: It depends on what I’m having, but my preference is corn. My taste is more traditional…I like the earthy tones. I’m originally from El Paso, so I grew up with fresh flour tortillas every day, made by my mom, my abuela or my tias…it was awesome.
EA: Whence did the breakfast taco come? Did it migrate north like mesquite?
EA: In your book, you pay respect to the families that created our oldest taquerias. You also focus on some great trailer breakfast tacos. The families went through trials and tribulations to keep the family businesses going, yet the businesses are increasingly surrounded by food trailers. Do you think the trailers threaten our long-standing businesses, since it costs so much more to operate a taqueria than a trailer?
MR: It’s great to start out incrementally. As a matter of fact, Joe’s
MR: There are a lot of theories. If you’re of Mexican heritage,
started next door over there (he points) where that little burger-
you used your tortilla as a utensil, right? So you use it, you scoop
joint building is, before they moved into this building. So while it
it, you tear it and it becomes your own version of a taco. That was
wasn’t a trailer, they started very small so it was incremental growth.
the natural thing to do with a tortilla, and it sure tastes better than a
El Tacorrido, which started in a little shack in North Austin, now
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Jarod Neece (left) and Mando Rayo (right) at Joe‘s Bakery& Coffee Shop EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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has multiple locations. They started small and grew. So, I think it’s
from. Whether you’re born and raised Texan Anglo or Latino, you’re
good. The cafés have a chance to have a lot of character and environ-
Texan, and we share a lot of culture. The best part about explaining
ment—you don’t really get that out of a trailer. The trailers impact
it through tacos is, you eat it! Instead of breaking bread, we’re break-
communities in different ways. For instance, a great time to sell tacos
ing tortilla!
is as the bars close. In the ’90s, mainly in the East Riverside Drive area, there was a movement to shut the taquerias down. [The City] said they were open too late and were rowdy. So they created stricter ordinances for taquerias. Then, more mainstream entrepreneurs said, Hey, we could do this. Torchy’s Tacos, for instance, started off in a trailer, yet was more established, and it seemed to kind of make the taco trailer scene more acceptable.
EA: Are the majority of our good breakfast tacos in South Austin? MR: No. There’s a strip on North Lamar near Rundberg with some awesome tacos. It’s like going back in time. Like transferring yourself to Mexico. The original El Tacorrido feels like that. There are pockets of immigrant communities Southeast, Riverside, North Lamar, et cetera. They all have great, high-quality traditional tacos.
EA: What about those American breakfast tacos? Fried chicken, ranch, sausage wraps?
EA: OK…you’re opening a breakfast taco trailer tomorrow. You will only have great tortillas and five ingredients. What are they?
MR: It’s a compliment…you have to take it like a compliment. It’ll stay rooted in the Mexican culture, but if they can do something cool and new with it, that’s awesome. It’s that evolution of the taco… all the Korean tacos, barbecue tacos…all of it.
MR: First of all, we need to bring my grandmother back to life, or at least one of my tias, to make the tortillas. I want to have tortillas from my family tradition, not the evolutionary Austin tortillas. I’d like to make them with my childhood El Paso water, too. Beans…
EA: You’re a Latino engagement strategist by day. That part of your world seems to have a lot in common with your philosophy of cultural evolution and the taco.
totally important. You can prep them in different styles. If you have good beans and salsa, you know you’re off to a good start. We’ll use a thin layer of creamy beans on our taco…it’s the Mexican mayo! Heat, spice or salsa—whether jalapeño or chile de arbol. For me, I
MR: Yeah…for me, culture is the one thing in my world that re-
like a jalapeño-based creamy sauce. The jalapeños can be really hot,
ally makes a connection. For instance, at the end of the day, you’re
or medium, but never, ever mild. Eggs…we have a chicken at home.
not just eating tacos, you’re eating culture, tradition, history. The
Farm-fresh eggs make all the difference in the world—they’re but-
tortilla and where it came from, and the chile, and where it all came
tery without butter. So, we’ll have a small chicken coop behind the
FEATURING
LOCALLY
BAKED BREAD
30 locations in Central Texas
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trailer. Meat—something that stands out. I might go with a machacado [spiced, dried, shredded beef]. Or a variation on that, with barbecue leftovers and bring in both worlds! I’m a huge fan of bacon, but machacado beats bacon. For the final ingredient: onion. Sautéed and glazed onion. That’s how I’ll make the taco. Like I make it at home!
EA: How’s the book doing? MR: Locally, we’re number one in the food sections at BookPeople [and] Barnes and Noble. Also doing great in San Antonio, Houston, L.A. People get it. Our Austin breakfast taco is becoming like the Chicago hot dog or New York pizza—something a city is known for.
EA: Are you hiding any badass breakfast taco places from us to keep them to yourself?
MR: No…no. For me, my whole reason for existence is to tell people about these kinds of places. They already know about the Tacodelis, the Torchy’s and the Güero’s. I want them to know about the taco trailers on Montopolis, East Riverside, North Lamar, ’cause we need to support what we’re doing here. It only takes a few minutes to drive east, or north, or south—but probably not west! I guess there’s one west-side taco trailer in the book, WhaTaTaco on Bee Cave Road.
EA: Are you changing the view of Austin and Mexican-American culture with this book, as much as you’re talking about the cuisine?
MR: Yeah, I want to share the pride with which people maintain these traditions, even as they create new things. I want to show the roots of Mexican immigrant culture in modern Austin.
EA: What’s the breakfast taco future? MR: The future is in the salsa! As the influence of Mexican culture grows across the U.S., the different generations will still carry traditions forward. A lot of that is in the food. The more that we can talk about the real stories behind the food, the more authentic we can keep the cuisine, even as it evolves. For more information, visit Mando Rayo’s blog at tacojournalism. blogspot.com and find his book, Austin Breakfast Tacos: The Story of the Most Important Taco of the Day, at local booksellers.
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History of the Breakfast TacO in Austin Excerpt from Austin Breakfast Tacos: The Story of the Most Important Taco of the Day, by Mando Rayo and Jarod Neece (Copyright ©2013 by Mando Rayo and Jarod Neece), published by American Palate, a division of The History Press, Charleston, SC 29403
I
t all started with Old Mexican town—what is now Republic
Excerpt from Joe's Bakery & Coffee Shop:
Square Park at Guadalupe and Fifth Streets. That’s where the first Mexicans lived—right in downtown Austin. Before condos and
the east side, families who emigrated from Mexico settled in Austin
What is your most popular breakfast taco and why? What makes it stand out?
in the 1870s. A handful of immigrants came here for a better life and
Our most popular breakfast taco item is our bacon. People tend
worked as soda jerks, ranch hands and workers in tortilla and chili
to think our bacon is deep-fried, but it’s not. Our bacon is battered in
factories. Those were the early days of Mexican life in Austin.
an all-purpose flour before it is put on our grill. Once it is grilled, the
In the 1890s and early 1900s, the development of Mexican-
bacon takes on a nice brown color and crispy taste.
owned businesses—a meat market (Ben Garza), a doctor’s office (Alberto Garcia), the first tortilla factory (Crescenciano Segovia;
Why do you think Austinites love breakfast tacos so much?
Austin Tortilla Manufacturing Company, 1922) in Austin and the
The breakfast taco is a staple in Austin because there are so
predecessor to the taco trailers—sprouted up in the form of tama-
many variations to choose from. Originally, the taco was for the
le and chili stands. In an Austin American-Statesman article from
working-class person who couldn’t afford to buy their lunch, and
the 1950s, writer Hamilton Wright professed, “Back in 1893 on the
their wife or mother would make them breakfast and send a taco:
courthouse square one had no trouble finding a Mexican vendor.”
a hot one for the morning and cold one for lunch. However, over
And so began the influence of Mexican culture into what we now
the years, the taco has gained popularity because of the smaller
know of taco trailers, Mexican and Tex-Mex food and cuisine.
portion sizes and the ability to create your own taco. The taco al-
During the Depression and into the 1930s and ’40s, Austin experienced the emergence of Mexican restaurants by the Carlin family
lows people the freedom to pick and choose their favorite items and create the best combination for their taste buds.
(Jose Trujillo Carlin and Elvira Hernandez), including El Charro Restaurant (Red River and Ninth Street) and El Charro #2 (on Speedway by the University of Texas) and La Tapatia. During a time when the Mexican community was establishing itself, the 1928 City Plan for Austin relocated Mexicans to the east side of town to segregate minority communities. Mexicans and Latinos have a culture of bePhotography by Dennis Burnett
ing entrepreneurial, and soon more restaurants were established, including El Mat, “home of the crispy taco” (1947); El Matamoros Restaurant (1957); and Matt’s El Rancho (1952). Local east side favorites like Joe’s Bakery (1962), El Azteca (1963) and Cisco’s Restaurant Bakery (1959) settled in East Austin and are still open today. The basic formula of these restaurants was to serve their customers food just like they would make at home, but there was still no sign of breakfast tacos like we have today. From the 1970s to the 1990s, the United States experienced exponential growth in immigration. Austin was no exception. With increased community members from Mexico and Central and South America, and mixed with multigenerational Tejanos, Austin’s food scene started to boom. It was in the early 1980s when the commercialization of breakfast tacos began with the Tamale House on Airport Road, Las Manitas on Congress and other established restaurants. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Austin experienced a growth of small Latino-owned businesses in the form of taco trucks and trailers. Soon thereafter, chefs and other entrepreneurs followed suit, and today Austin is a mecca for food trailers. In sharing the history of the breakfast taco, I interviewed people I call Los Elders, restaurateurs and Austinites who have longer histories than what’s in libraries and articles. These are some of their stories.
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Bacon and Egg Taco 1 tortilla of your choice (Of course, we prefer flour because they are made fresh daily.) 1 t. oil in frying pan (We use melted shortening, just the way grandma used to. For the health conscious, you can use olive oil.) 1 egg, scrambled well with salt and pepper 1 strip of bacon (Our famous bacon is coated in an all-purpose flour before it is placed on the grill.) Add bacon and egg to hot tortilla and fold.
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edible MARKETPLACE
by C l a i r e C e l l a • P h oto g rap h y by A n dy Sam s
A
tin society in the early 19th and 20th centuries. Take, for instance,
kind that involves storing away old photographs or rare man-
the Austin City Directory of 1908, which lists seven grocers within a
uscripts, though. What he’s salvaging are the foodways of Austin; the
few-block radius of that very same corner. Most of them were small,
ways that food has interacted with this city’s culture and history.
privately owned stores, listed not as recognizable franchises, but
llen Rogers might not admit it yet, but his Rosewood Com-
Rosewood Community Market resembles the foodways of Aus-
munity Market is a valiant endeavor in preservation. Not the
The market—situated on the corner of Chicon Street and Rose-
simply by the name of the owner. Fast-forward to 1940, and still more
wood Avenue—offers much more than simply the specific grassfed
grocers and markets abounded. In 1970, there was even a grocery,
heritage meats that are written on the chalkboard or the organic
Stark Willie’s, located just a few doors down from where Rogers’s
heirloom vegetables that line the farm table in the center of the
market currently sits. What’s more is that these grocers were usually
store’s single room. It’s a place where the local community can find
stocked with locally sourced goods to help sustain the community’s
essential provisions and an appreciation for today’s local farmers
daily dietary needs, just like Rosewood.
and artisans, but also remain connected to the legacy of community stores and neighborhood grocers in Austin. 30
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Unfortunately, since the late 1980s, the grocery food options— natural, unpackaged and non-fried options, at least—on the East
Side have diminished. In fact, one prominent reason Rogers and his
the market is closer and more convenient. Sometimes, items at Rose-
co-manager, Elizabeth Nowrouz, started Rosewood in that location
wood can even be the same price, if not cheaper than, those at larger
was because the neighborhood that it serves was considered a “food
grocers. “There can be this stigma around micro-groceries that you
desert,” according to the USDA, or an urban neighborhood “without
have to pay more,” Rogers says. “But that’s the opposite of what we
ready access to fresh, healthy and affordable food.” In these areas,
want to achieve. We want it to be as affordable as possible.”
“at least 500 people and/or at least 33 percent of the census tract’s
Rogers says he and Nowrouz make an effort to work with cus-
population must reside more than one mile from a supermarket or
tomers to make items affordable. On top of accepting SNAP and
large grocery store,” notes the USDA. That means in East Austin’s
Lone Star Card, Rogers is often known to take 10 percent off the
recent history, one of the foodways has shut down, and Rogers is out
top of sales. “It’s about a state of mind,” he says. “How we consume;
to change that.
how we interact. Everything about this place was chosen with that
Rogers and Nowrouz received support to open Rosewood from
thoughtfulness: that we want to react to our environment and think
PeopleFund—a community development financial institution—be-
about what we’re consuming. It’s meant to be a safe space for people,
cause of the market’s prospective power to become a sustaining food
and anyone who walks in the door can see that immediately.”
hub for the local community, and provide both food access and food
Rogers realizes that change can take time, of course. But right
security where there were none. Although Rogers knew opening
now, he’s focused on the positive developments within the past few
the store wasn’t going to be easy, there have been daily challenges.
months. Rosewood has joined, and now contributes to, CitySprout—
“We’re still obscure,” he says. “And there’s no other commerce on
a Web-based exchange site that brings local farm produce and prod-
this corner to speak of. We’re off the beaten path a little bit.”
ucts to businesses and neighborhoods. The market has also opened
But he’s quick to mention that the anonymity and isolation are
up its commercial kitchen space for rent on Mondays and Tuesdays
also significant justification for why the market is there in the first
to host educational cooking programs, and Rogers and Nowrouz are
place. “We’re embedded in this neighborhood,” he says. “And we’re
starting to experiment with the possibility of turning Rosewood into
trying to show that little markets like this can support neighbor-
a co-op. “We used to exist in small, local communities before the in-
hoods and become a part of daily life. Our goal is to supply anything
dustrial food complex,” he says. “It’s simply that this is a choice now;
you need to make a meal that day of that week.”
Rosewood Community Market is an option. Hopefully, more people
Of course many of the market’s offerings—which include local
will decide that this is the thing they want to support. You can effect
delights like goat chops from Windy Hill Farm, Johnson’s Backyard
real change in a person’s life in a small way by doing a small thing,”
Garden kale and Mill-King Market & Creamery milk—are already
Rogers says, “and that’s a pretty big deal.”
healthier and fresher than the products at the big-box grocer, and
For more information, visit rosewoodfood.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
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edible PASTIMES
Table of Plenty by A m y C row e l l
Picnicking near Canton, Texas, from the collections of the Texas/Dallas History and Archives Division, Dallas Public Library
M
id-1800s Texas is one of the last places you’d expect to
Texas—offering plant and animal diversity that would supply the
experience what the French refer to as a table recherché,
resources for many new colonies to begin and survive. The abun-
a refined meal of sought-after delicacies. Just emerging
dance that drew people to the area we live in today continues to
as a state and nursing fresh wounds from the Mexican-American
offer a unique selection of wild plants and animals to enjoy both
War, Texas was still wild, dangerous and rough in many spots. Yet
in our landscapes and on our tables.
European settlers steadily trickled across her new borders, bringing with them high hopes and hungry families. As many of them made their way inland, they watched the
In 1844, Henri Castro, founder of what would eventually be called Castroville, described in his journal a September meal he shared with his guests in the newly forming Alsatian settlement:
landscape transition slowly from moist, forested rolling hills in
“I was able to offer…vermicelli soup made with the bones
the east to drier scrub brush and dusty desert dotted with cac-
of deer (nothing can be so delicate), fried trout, roasted turkey
tus and mesquite. This mosaic of bioregions converged in Central
and partridges…for dessert a cream made with eggs and milk
32
HEIRLOOM 2013
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
produced in the colony. Pecans gathered at the door of the din-
likely quail and bass. The medlars, or wild crab apples, were prob-
ing room, medlars and wild pomegranates. Red wine made by
ably Texas persimmons (Diospyros texana) or wild plums (Prunus
a German of wild grapes…I attach importance to these details
americana spp.), which would be ripe in September and could be
because they indicate the resources of which we could make
mistaken for actual medlars. While Texas does offer some wild
use. At Paris one could find nothing more rare or more delicate,
crab apples, they are more rare and would probably not have been
though he paid a great price. Is it not worthy of notice that we
growing in abundance near Castro’s original settlement. Wine
had in the middle of the desert, without expense, all the delica-
made from wild grapes (probably our native mustang grape—
cies of a table recherché? That, nevertheless, is what is at the
Vitis mustangensis) was an essential part of his feast, and high-
door of every colonist.”
lights a food tradition carried over from the Old World that’s still
This entry is one of my favorite references to the wild foods
important to our modern meals. All of these fabulous, wild delica-
common on an early Central Texas settler’s table. We’d expect
cies can be found in our area today, and offer many opportunities
pecans and deer, of course, but the references to partridges and
to create wines, jams, jellies and meat dishes that the mid-1800s
trout were Castro’s common European names for what were most
settlers depended on and enjoyed.
Grilled Pork-Venison Sausage with Texas Persimmon Sauce
Wild Fruit Jelly
T
his sausage recipe is an Alsatian family recipe, passed down from generation to generation, and is still used today. The fam-
ily who shared this recipe lives in D’Hanis—one of Henri Castro’s original settlements—and gets together every year to carry on the tradition of hunting and making sausage together. This recipe will make enough patties for a large dinner party. You can also seal up the extra meat mixture in an airtight freezer bag and store in the freezer for up to two months. For the sausage: 5 lb. ground venison 5 lb. ground pork ¼ c. salt 2 T. ground black pepper 1 T. ground coriander 3–5 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1 T. mustard seeds (optional) Texas persimmon sauce (recipe below)
Mix the meat and spices together—preferably by hand—and form into 4-inch patties. Grill the patties over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes on each side—turning at least 4 times. After the last turn, spread some of the persimmon sauce onto each patty. Remove from the heat and serve with additional persimmon sauce drizzled over the patties or on the side for dipping. For the sauce: The Texas persimmon is truly unique to our area (Texas and northern Mexico), as it grows nowhere else in the world! Do not confuse these small black, large-seeded fruit for the orange market varieties of fuyu or hachiya persimmons. Castro and the early settlers probably made good use of Texas persimmons in many ways, but one of the easiest and purest ways to enjoy this tasty, sweet fruit is to pulp it. Simply wash the fruit and place it in a food mill or cone sieve. You can also use a colander and the back of a large, wooden spoon or a bowl that is slightly smaller than the colander. Mash down on the fruit (making sure the mill or sieve is sitting over a bowl) and push the smooth pulp through into the bowl. You’ll end up with a smooth, black, fruity sauce, or paste, that is the perfect consistency for spreading. Mix in a bit of water and drizzle over the grilled sausages.
W
ild fruits common to Central Texas that can be used in this recipe include prickly pear tunas, grapes, mulberries, elder-
berries, plums, blackberries, persimmons, Turk’s cap fruit, agaritas and a few others. Consider this recipe a guide, and feel free to experiment with different amounts of sweeteners and juices until you create the recipe that is perfect for your palate. Wash the fruit, remove the stems and place in a saucepan. Unless you’re using agaritas, cover the fruit with water and bring the pot to a boil for 10 to 15 minutes. (When extracting agarita juice, do not boil the water. Instead, pour hot water that has not yet boiled over the berries, let it steep for a few hours then proceed with the recipe.) Remove from the heat, gently mash the fruit with a potato masher or the back of a spoon to extract the juices and let cool for up to 1 hour. Push the fruit through a sieve lined with cheesecloth or a jelly bag to extract the fruit juice. Measure the amount of juice and place the juice back into the saucepan. For each cup of wild fruit juice, add: 1 T. lemon juice 1 t. Pomona’s calcium water ½ c. sugar or ¹/³ c. honey ½ t. of Pomona’s Universal Pectin (follow directions on box) Bring the fruit juice, lemon juice and calcium water to a boil. Combine the sugar with the pectin and add to the boiling juice. Stir until the pectin is dissolved then allow the mixture to boil for 1–2 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour into sterilized jars. If you plan to keep the jelly for several months, process in a hot-water bath for 10 minutes. To enjoy it right away, though, store the jelly in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Texas persimmon (Diospyros texana). EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
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Farmers DIARY
Milagro Farm by R e b ecca P e rso n s • P h oto g rap h y by Pau l i n e St ev e n s
O
36
n Milagro Farm, just outside of Austin, farmers
every chicken they have, by hand. “I do all the labor but Amy’s
Kris and Amy Olsen’s two large chicken coops sit
the big thinker,” he says. “I work hard; she works smart.”
perpendicular to each other—one facing a serene
That hard work was partly inspired by Kris’s fond memo-
pond filled with bass and the other facing a garden waiting
ries of being a Boy Scout, where an intense love for the nat-
to sprout its winter bounty. The humming and chirping from
ural world and living off of the land emerged. The interest
the ladies inside the coops begin to rise as we approach;
continued to grow as he became an adult, and eventually led
then, all of a sudden, we’re engulfed in a yellow blur of 500
to survivalist periods where Kris challenged himself to live
two-week-old baby chicks. Avery, the Olsens’ spirited four-
alone in the wilderness—sometimes up to 40 days with only
year-old, plucks up a chick and effortlessly balances it on top
a fanny pack and his hands for tools.
of her head. “Avery is usually found with a chicken tucked in
He took the skills he’d learned during these adventures and
her dress, carrying it around in her pockets, kissing chick-
shared them with game wardens, hunting guides and sheriffs,
ens, holding chickens, hugging chickens,” says Amy.
but he still yearned for another way to connect people with
Chickens are simply part of the family around here, and
the natural world he loved so much. It wasn’t until he read
customers who clamor for the Olsens’ fresh eggs often ask
the first chapter in Mel Bartholomew’s book, The Square Foot
what makes them taste so good. But it’s not an old family
Gardener, that he knew the answer. “A lightbulb went off at
secret; it’s just good tending. Kris feeds, monitors and raises
that moment in my brain,” he says. “I needed to be a farmer
HEIRLOOM 2013
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HEIRLOOM 2013
37
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because that was the best way to teach people about nature.” He had good success with a garden in his mom’s backyard, and eventually landed a gig running a 10-acre farm in Aguanga, California. In two years, that farm expanded from cultivating five to five hundred acres—participating in 23 farmers markets a week and selling to the Whole Foods Market distribution center. “It was a lot of work,” says Kris. “We’d sell over a million dollars a year and we didn’t make money.”
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After Kris and Amy married in 2004, making money became more necessary because they wanted to start a family. They moved off the grid, to a modest two-acre farm plot on the side of a mountain about three hours outside of San Diego and became profitable. But the couple soon realized that they were too far from city life and they missed it. They began to search for a place that offered a balance of city and country life, which drew them near Austin to the land that would become their new farm.
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But by the second year, the couple got a feel for Texas’s tem-
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soil cracked and dry. But one thing remained the same. “During
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HEIRLOOM 2013
it. There were tons of nutrients that made the plants healthy.” pestuous weather. Bugs infiltrated their land and drought left the
Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona
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good,” says Kris. “This land was all virgin; no one had ever farmed
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Then came the chickens—Amy’s idea. They started out with 30 birds to complement their growing farm. “That first year we did so
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all those times I lost crops,” Kris says, “I noticed the chickens were always producing for us.” Now with 13 acres of land and experience under their belts, the Olsens’ production line has grown to 2,600 chickens. And it turns out there really is a secret to the taste of those eggs. Kris says the key is irrigating the pastures. Without it, the chickens would be ripping up the dirt or chasing one another. Instead, they eat lush grasses all day, which give them the nutrients and energy they need to create the savory eggs he sells. “It’s what they naturally want to be doing,” he says. Kris continues to believe in connecting people back to the earth and nature by growing good, nutritious food. This season, it’ll be onions, green garlic, lettuce, chard and beets; in the summer, it’s cherry tomatoes, sweet bell peppers and butternut squash. Their popular eggs, however, are available year-round. Find Milagro Farm eggs and produce at the SFC Farmers’ Market– Triangle on Wednesdays from 3 to 7 p.m., and at SFC Farmers’ Market–Downtown on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
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39
Seasonal MUSE
DIRT FARMING by Ca ro l A n n SaY l e
I
grew up playing in
to Waco to raise her five
dirt. A truckload of
kids on a secretary’s sal-
authentic topsoil—
ary. Her daughter, Little
richly dark with life—de-
Dove (my mother), want-
livered to our Balcones
ed nothing to do with
Heights lot outside of
farming for the rest of
San Antonio in the 1940s
her life, although she was
and ’50s served as a tem-
oddly proud of me for be-
porary amusement park
ing successful at it. Thus the heritage of
for me. I sculpted caves, and
the grandparent farmers
piled up mountain peaks
jumped Little Dove’s gen-
on the mound in fever-
eration to rest in me. I’ve
ish delight, just ahead of
done other things in my
my father’s shovel and
life—taught school for a
smoothed
roads
couple of years, worked
wheelbarrow. Chief (his nickname) struggled to spread the dirt evenly over the native caliche
with Larry in real estate for a few, painted for 20—yet, after more than
and doomed St. Augustine grass, while I dreaded the pile’s disper-
two decades on the land, I’m still a bit surprised that I am a farmer.
sion. Finally, I would relocate to a vacant lot nearby, which, because
Probably my being attracted to farm boys made it an eventual outcome.
of the endless drought, was bare of any vegetative life.
On a cool November morning, as I contentedly cultivate young
In solitary play on the lot, my imagination ran to stories. The
lettuces in the front field of this farm, a middle-aged woman and her
characters in these dramas were bright gold, empty shell casings
mother drive up, roll down the car window and tell me that they are
(Flash Gordon and an army of hollow soldiers), or a little plastic
making a “trial run” so that they won’t feel anxious trying to find the
Roy Rogers with permanently bowed legs (as if still astride Trigger)
farm on market day. I nod sympathetically—navigating an unknown
and a Dale Evans (also horseless but standing straight) that partici-
route while dodging traffic is tough for folks who remember empty
pated in awkward “Western” kissing scenes (yes, of course the cow-
streets, slower speeds and soft dirt from long ago.
persons partook of those) as Roy’s lips were at a different altitude
After we discuss the potential market offerings for the next day,
than Dale’s. But the pale soil—the backdrop for those frustrated little
the mother tells me, in a quiet, nostalgic voice that I remind her of her
lives—was the most important character. I rarely wore shoes then,
grandmother. As I continue to break the crust of the soil with the shal-
even on excursions to downtown San Antonio—which was fine with
low strokes of my long-handled swan-neck hoe, she says, “she held
Chief, as he felt shoes were better saved for school—and my feet and
her hoe like you do: her back straight, both thumbs up, like hitching a
legs were covered daily in the cloying dust.
ride.” As the women leave, I think of all the long-gone grandmoth-
Sixty years later, I still love to feel the soil with my bare feet, although it is now a seldom-felt sensation. Farming requires foot-
ers—young women, old women—in their gardens, hoeing and pulling weeds from moist soil, giving the lettuce room to grow.
wear lest one become hobbled from injuries. It’s easy to be slowed
I am happy that this is my ultimate heritage. One day, when I’m
by looking for stones and sticks when treading back and forth along
too crunchy to be serious about farming, I’ll kick off my boots, drape
the growing beds, and no one wants a toe chopped off by a tool. Alas,
them with my dirty socks and allow my feet to feel the warmth of
farming’s just too much cautious business and not enough play.
the soil in my kitchen garden. I’ll grasp the hoe handle—my thumbs
It was also serious business for my maternal grandparents, who were tenant cotton farmers in Coryell County at the beginning of the
up and my back straight—and I’ll think of my grandmother in her own garden.
last century. They didn’t stay with it however, even though my grandmother loved her chickens, as do I, because the influenza of World
Carol Ann Sayle is co-owner of Boggy Creek Farm with husband,
War I took my grandfather, and reality relocated his young widow
Larry Butler.
40
HEIRLOOM 2013
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WANTED Gifts that deliver real reward
This season, don’t just give the usual suspects. Put a vegetable garden on your most-wanted list and help a family living in poverty put food on the table.
See the full lineup at OXFAMGIFTS.COM EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
41
42
HEIRLOOM 2013
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edible ENDEAVOR
MING’S THING by S h e l l ey S e a l e • P h oto g r ap h y By M A RKS M OORE
M
ing Qian was a young girl in China, working closely
with her time. “I wanted to be in the food business, but the hotel
alongside her mother in their kitchen, when a love for
and restaurant business has very long hours. You don’t really have
cooking blossomed. “That’s where it started,” she says.
your own life, and I wanted time with my family.”
“[Mom] put in a little of this…a little of that.” In fact, it was a
Qian’s friends had been enjoying her Chinese snack foods and
yearning for her mother’s home cooking that started Qian on
suggested she sell the creations at the farmers market. In Novem-
a food journey in San Antonio, and to the eventual opening of
ber 2011, the Ming’s Thing booth opened at the Quarry Farmers &
Ming’s Thing—her farmers market stand and catering business. “I
Ranchers Market. Von Bargen says he feels blessed that his wife
really started cooking by trying to re-create that taste of home,”
shares his passion for food. “We are a very food-centric family,”
she says. “My mom wasn’t here, so I had to do it. I would call and
he says. “The market is like our family time; our daughter comes
ask her things, but she was half a world away and I had to figure
with us every Sunday.”
it out for myself.”
The culinary philosophy of Ming’s Thing, Von Bargen says, is
The path that brought Qian to San Antonio was a circuitous
to take existing taste profiles and incorporate them into Qian’s
one. Her first job in Beijing was in hospitality management at
type of food. “I’m not a fine-dining type of guy; I love casual com-
the China World Hotel, which exposed her to all types of dishes
fort food,” he says. “Our charcuterie and the kimchi and barley
from around the globe. Her father also worked internationally,
sausage are examples of something we have evolved—they aren’t
and brought back many exotic edibles from different parts of the
traditional, [and] have other influences such as Thai.”
world. “I also had a lot of contact at work with international trav-
Von Bargen adds that the farmers market is a great way to in-
elers,” Qian says, “and I wished that I could travel like them one
troduce these new flavors, through tastings and samples that offer
day. I started traveling throughout China, visiting small hole-in-
a useful tool in raising awareness. “We want to provide some-
the-wall restaurants and street food carts. Things were so differ-
thing different, and Asian cuisines offer a great variety,” he notes.
ent from my mom’s food! All the different flavor profiles were
“We’ve grown with the evolving San Antonio food scene—being
amazing. I wanted to try it all!”
part of the developing trends.”
Qian’s chance to travel internationally came when she met her
They admit that the creative risks they enjoy incorporating
future husband, Hinnerk Von Bargen, a chef at the Kempinski Ho-
into their foods take some customers aback. The cold Szechuan
tel in Beijing, where Qian also worked. After their 1998 marriage,
noodle salad on the summer menu is one example, as well as the
the couple moved to his native Germany, but Qian was unpre-
smoked pork-belly steak and their most popular dish: the “Sloopy
pared for the way she felt living in a foreign land. “I really missed
Wang”—a tangy, Asian-style pulled-pork spin-off of the sloppy
home and family,” she says. “Things from China, I missed, and
joe. “People will ask, What is this?” Qian says. “I suggest they just
couldn’t get them in Germany. But I told myself, you have to deal
try it. I love to see that reaction…when they discover something
with it and change your attitude. If you open your mind to see the
new and they love it. It’s very rewarding.”
positive, you can see the beauty in anything. That’s when Germany became my home.”
Currently, Qian has recently expanded to Pearl Farmers Market on Saturdays, and has been doing more catering jobs. Melina
The next year, when Von Bargen was offered a teaching job at
now comes into the kitchen with her sometimes, and when asked
the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, New York,
if that brings back memories of her own childhood, Qian seems
the couple moved to the U.S. After 10 years at that location, the
awash with emotion and says, “I hadn’t ever thought of it before…
CIA transferred Von Bargen to the newly-opened San Antonio lo-
but yes, it is the same. A new legacy.”
cation in 2009. There, Qian began to re-create her favorite childhood dishes.
For more information, visit mingsthing.com and find the
She also made new Chinese and American friends, and learned
Ming’s Thing booth every Sunday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. at the
new cooking techniques from them. With their daughter, Melina,
Quarry Farmers & Ranchers Market, and Saturdays at Pearl
now in elementary school, Qian wanted something new to do
Farmers Market.
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
43
Olives eaten in pairs bring good fortune, but eating a lone olive leads straight to the grave, maybe. In the Mediterranean, such paltry snacks are for mourners only.
If you want to get married, always finish your rice! Leftover grains will correspond to the number of pockmarks on the face of your future spouse. TRUE FALSE
TRUE FALSE Pork is a lucky food because: a. Pigs can’t look behind themselves without turning all the way around and since they like to conserve energy, they usually just look ahead. Thereby guaranteeing whoever eats them an excellent future. TRUE FALSE b. Pigs can be converted into bacon, which adds crunchy richness to life. This superstition dates back to a time when people could never be too rich or too fat. TRUE FALSE A date who over-salts your dinner has fallen in love with you. TRUE FALSE
The following food behaviors guarantee good luck at the start of a new year: a. Eating 12 grapes in 12 seconds on New Year’s Eve, beginning exactly at midnight. In Spain. TRUE FALSE b. Eating fish heads on Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. As bubbe always said: head of the fish/whatever you wish! TRUE FALSE c. If the New Year’s meal contains a chicken with its head attached, ensure that the head never faces you, which would mean your boss hates you and you will lose your job. TRUE FALSE d. Smashing a pomegranate against your front door. Or so say the Greeks. TRUE FALSE e. Slurping long noodles in such a manner as to leave them unbroken. No biting or cutting! Long noodles, long life. TRUE FALSE
44
HEIRLOOM 2013
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edible PASTIMES
GOOD FORTUNE FOODS by ROBIN C HOTZ i n o ff • I l lust rat i o n s by Bam b i E D LUN D
A
ll the food superstitions in the quiz (opposite page) are truly documented superstitions, except for 2b, the one about wealth, fat and bacon, which I made up. But that’s
the thing with these customs—they had to start somewhere, and surely that means somewhere random. For instance, an Orthodox Jewish housewife will swing a live chicken around her head before Yom Kippur, in the hope that it will absorb her sins pre-
would break out. Before the first sip of wine, you were to spill a
atonement. Did this commandment emanate from God? Is it men-
drop on the earth, unless you were drinking in a city apartment
tioned in the Bible? No. It came from Rabbis With Too Much Time
and there was no earth, in which case you were excused and your
On Their Hands, and if they could push through such a ludicrous
luck held. The last step of eating a soft-boiled egg was to poke
policy, there’s hope for me.
a hole in the bottom of the eggshell. No one explained it at the
Perhaps someday the pig/bacon/wealth superstition will be
time, but I now know it lets the devil out, and that the custom
accepted as culinary peasant wisdom and I will have been the
can be traced to the British Isles, where the devil appears more
original peasant—a job for which I have the right DNA.
often at breakfast than he does in, say, Corsica, where he carries off anyone who falls asleep under a fig tree. (Fig-tree sleeping is an evening activity, right?) I don’t know who started it, but whenever Yorkshire pudding was served, Aunt Cookie and my father threw squares of it at each other, aiming for the face. A direct hit meant at least a month of good luck. But even if it didn’t make its target, it was hilarious
The Russian-Jewish side of my family was full of food tics.
for toddlers, until they found out that throwing food, like voting,
(The Irish Catholic side was more interested in drinking.) On
is a privilege reserved for adults. Both Aunt Cookie and my dad,
New Year’s Eve, for a good luck reset, we ate pickled herring in
having eaten the single olive of mortality, are no longer around
cream sauce. I had to pay Aunt Cookie one cent for the Chinese
to explain this stuff, leaving adults like me to carry on traditions.
cooking cleaver she gave me as a wedding present, because a
Sure, they’re ridiculous, but I do it. I carry on.
knife must never be a gift. That would be wicked bad luck, as
I try to peel oranges so that the peel comes off in one long
they say in Maine, just like painting a boat blue, or, to get back to
strip, which I then throw on the floor, where the shape it assumes
food, bringing a banana on board a ship, let alone a whole cargo of
might…must!…correspond to the first letter of my true love’s
them, which pretty much guarantees a shipwreck or pirate attack.
name. (Don’t try this with a satsuma unless your true love’s name
My father—who lived on a boat, in case you need the continu-
begins with a comma.) And I cheat at turkey-wishbone pulling. I
ity spelled out—believed that good fortune should be celebrated
can’t say how, but I really need to win. It’s very important that I
with a New York strip steak cooked medium-rare, and that if you
get my wish, which I also can’t reveal. Usually it works, but just
failed to observe this custom, Dionysus would get mad and with-
to be safe, especially at this time of year, I make sure my diet
hold future hedonistic pleasure. Dad also believed in the inherent
contains adequate bacon, which adds crunchy richness to life, as
luck of the spring day upon which the Sabrett hot dog cart first
everyone knows. Or will, eventually.
appeared on the shoulder of the Sunrise Highway. And further,
Happy New Year!
that whoever finished their spring hot dog first should get a bite of everyone else’s. Bad luck for you if you didn’t feel like sharing. In his family, if you spilled salt, you threw a pinch over your left shoulder to keep away miscellaneous bad spirits. You never handed the salt to another person—within minutes, an argument
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what I use and why
The Kindest Cut by K r i st i W i l l i s • P h oto g r ap h y by J e n n a N o e l
I
’m staring at a package containing my birthday present, puz-
might even say it is ugly—but the blade is as sharp as a sword and
zling over the cryptic note from my stepmother. “One of
the weight balances perfectly in your hand.
these is your gift; the other is just yours. You’ll know the
Every weekend, I watched my father take out his sharpening steel and hone the blade for the work ahead. He stood in the mid-
difference.” I rip open the box like an impatient six-year-old and find a
dle of our open kitchen following whatever football game or John
Laguna Gloria cookbook published the year I started school at
Wayne movie was on TV in the other room and patiently sharp-
the University of Texas. I’m overjoyed with this thoughtful gift
ened the knife. He’d wipe the blade clean, put away the sharpen-
that Barbara must have spent days looking for, but I’m curious
ing steel and get to work on the family’s meal. When the cooking
about the other item so I keep digging…and then I freeze.
was finished, he’d carefully clean the knife and put it away.
At the bottom of the box, wrapped in a towel, is my dad’s butch-
My dad had the knife as long as I can remember and when I
er’s knife and sharpening steel. I haven’t seen either in the 13 years
think about him in the kitchen, he has the knife close at hand. No
since he passed away, and a flood of emotion washes over me.
one else ever used the knife, and no one but him cleaned it—ever.
My dad owned the kitchen on the weekends. He had a standard
It was my dad’s knife.
menu with little variation, but he made each dish perfectly, so no
When my father passed away, I forgot about the knife. I as-
one cared. Saturday night was steak night: perfectly seasoned
sumed it was with my stepmother, packed away in the kitchen, but
medium-rare rib eye, baked potato and salad. Sunday morning
I never saw it. Now, the knife was in my hands. This simple thing
breakfast was eggs over easy, hash browns, bacon and crispy toast.
that my dad cherished was mine.
And, on Sunday night, we had barbecued chicken, corn on the cob and a vegetable. The meals were simple and perfect.
As I balanced the knife in my hands that day, I felt like I was holding hands with my dad again. He has always been with me in
As he cooked these dishes, he always had one tool at the ready:
the kitchen—first teaching me to cook and then patiently letting
a steel butcher’s knife. Not a gleaming, stainless-steel blade that
me experiment with fancy recipes I’d found. Now, he guides my
you might see in a Williams-Sonoma or Sur La Table catalog. No,
hand as I chop, dice and slice. He coaxes me to focus and take my
this knife was as practical as my father. He wanted quality materi-
time; he reminds me that the joy of being in the kitchen is in the
als that would last through the decades crafted by some nameless
sharing. I now care for that well-loved knife with the same attention my
artisan. And it has. The handle is weathered with a rivet missing, and
father gave it. It will hang in my kitchen until I am no longer able
the blade is discolored from years of carving roasts, chopping
to cook, and then it will pass to my niece or nephew, who can use
onions and butchering chickens. This knife is not stylish—some
it to share the love of food with their family.
46
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social COOKING
SUPPER CLUBS
Photography by Shannon Kintner
by K r i st i W i l l i s
Hamazing! A Night with Prosciutto di Parma at Bread & Circus.
T
he fellowship that’s forged while sharing a meal is one of
that, so I decided to start a group.”
the most beloved perks of our food traditions, and perhaps
It didn’t take long for the group to grow to over 100 events, and
it’s this spirit of community gathering that’s the key ingre-
Rowntree realized that the model could work in other cities. He
dient behind the birth, proliferation and popularity of the supper
started groups for several American cities, including Austin, which
club. Even though these clubs are often members-only with limited
already has over 250 members who’ve hosted six dinners in just four
seating, enticements like themed meals, guest chefs and a variety of
months. Rowntree believes that what makes the supper clubs special
unique dining locations continue to lure enthusiastic participants
is bringing together people from different backgrounds who share
lucky enough to snag a coveted spot.
a common love of food. “Yes the food is important, but it’s not all
Hosted club dinners are thriving today, both through circles of
about the food,” he says. “I think you can have a really simple, nice,
friends and, more formally, through new-media public groups like
home-cooked meal and what is special is everyone coming around
those organized through Meetup. Former Londoner Marcus Rown-
the table.”
tree started the Secret Dining Hub group after watching culinary
The camaraderie and uniqueness of those shared meals has
firebrand Jamie Oliver attending secret, underground dinner parties
drawn Austin’s local chefs to become involved in supper clubs, as
on a TV show. “It looked like such an amazing thing,” says Rowntree.
well. Special event dinners hosted outside the walls of a restaurant’s
“But I couldn’t figure out where to find dinners like that in London,
familiar brick and mortar have become a popular way to enjoy a
or other people that would be interested in doing something like
fine meal from a sought-after chef in an exciting new atmosphere. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
53
Photography by Jenna Noel
(left) Dai Due at Outstanding in the Field at Johnson's Backyard Garden, September 29, 2009; (right) Event Manager Michelle Llaguno and Chef Liaison Brandon Byrd at Dinner Lab, November 1, 2013.
C
M
Y
Stephen Shallcross, owner of 2 Dine 4 Catering, stumbled into his
it’s something different to see how it’s presented and be surprised
supper club over a decade ago after a pre-wedding tasting for a few
about how things come out.”
brides turned into a group dinner. “Everyone had so much fun, we
Culinary creativity is also the driving force behind Brenton
CM
MY
Schumacher and the team at Pink Avocado Catering’s Bread & Cir-
CY
The Supper Friends dinners give Shallcross’s catering staff an op-
cus Supper Club—a monthly dinner that also includes an entertain-
CMY
portunity to experiment and work with guest chefs who bring fresh
ment element, which has ranged from movies to DJs to burlesque
perspectives and different techniques to the kitchen. “Every dinner
dancers. A recent circus-themed dinner included sword swallowers
is an experiment for us and for the guests,” says Shallcross. “It gives
and contortionists, while another focused on a viewing of the film
the diners an opportunity to meet new people and socialize in a way
Moonrise Kingdom and a campout-themed meal. “This is a way for
that we don’t do that often anymore. We encourage people to turn
our staff to really be able to flex their creativity,” says Schumacher.
off the cell phones and engage in easy table conversation. It doesn’t
“We try to create a whole experience…it’s almost like a dinner the-
always work, but most people have fun even if they were uncomfort-
ater.”
knew that we should do it again, and Supper Friends was born.”
Other clubs like L’Oca d’Oro focus on music paired with food as
able when they arrived.” Dai Due Supper Club has hosted 150 dinners over the last seven
the inspiration. At their Dinners to Rock To series, held on Sunday
years. Chef Jesse Griffiths and team prepare unique menus of locally
nights at Franklin Barbecue, Chef Fiore Tedesco and General Man-
sourced produce and meats and serve it family style, often outside
ager Adam Orman dedicate the meal to a band, and each dish to one
at a local farm. “There is something special about every dinner,
album. Recent dinners included work by artists like David Bowie,
but I have a special place in my heart for Boggy Creek Farm,” says
Radiohead and Prince. What pairs with James Brown’s album Sex
Griffiths. “I cook every dinner with one person in mind, and at Boggy
Machine? Pickering oysters, bacon aioli and flying-fish roe, of course.
Creek, I cook for [owner] Carol Ann [Sayle]. She loves vegetables, so
For Nina Simone’s soulful Black Gold: risotto and charred cuttlefish
for her I make the vegetable dishes extra special.”
in its ink, fresh porcini, baby kale, golden beets and tomatoes.
Several of the dinners have showcased Griffiths’s philosophy of
Giving restaurant chefs a playground is at the core of what new-
making use of a whole animal when cooking. The Whole Hog Din-
comer Dinner Lab hopes to achieve. Founder Brian Bordainick
ner, for example, is presented after a full-day class in which partici-
wants chefs to use their dinners as a place to experiment in ways
pants learn how to break down, process and cook a whole hog. Din-
they may not be able to in their own restaurants. “We believe there
ner guests share dishes prepared by the class that are as likely to
is a disconnect between what chefs are preparing on a regular basis
include the pigs’ ears or tail as more familiar cuts like the chops or
and what they actually care about cooking,” says Bordainick. “We
ham. “I love the inventive focus on the local aspect,” says recent Dai
try to give talented chefs the opportunity to put forward food that
Due supper club guest Joe Ahlquist. “It’s one thing to see a menu, but
means something special to them.”
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HEIRLOOM 2013
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K
Everything In Balance. Drink Responsibly. © 2013 BONTERRA ORGANIC VINEYARDS, HOPLAND, CA.
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HEIRLOOM 2013
55
When a chef has a well-reviewed meal, they might be invited back to do a dinner with more courses, or to cook in one of Dinner Lab’s other locations in New Orleans, Nashville, New York or Los Angeles. “For us, it’s not just about the food; it’s about the aspiration of the chef and what they can achieve,” says Bordainick. “We want to give them a stage to show off in their own city and around the country.” For Chef Bridget Weiss, a supper club was the perfect way to transport the experience of running her now-shuttered restaurant in Marfa after she’d moved back to Austin. Rather than investing in another physical restaurant, she reinvented Marfa Table to include personal chef and catering services as well as a supper club. And while catering is the bulk of her business, the supper club gives Weiss a way to meet new people and share with them in a more personal way than was possible when she was stuck in the kitchen. “People who attend a supper club are food-curious, social and engaging,” says Weiss. “We might have people from ages eighteen to eighty at a dinner, and at the end of the night, they are all swapping phone numbers. There is something magical about those dinners.” Whether sharing a meal in a friend’s home or under the stars at a chef-prepared dinner, supper clubs offer a respite from the daily hubbub of life—encouraging diners to slow down, connect and enjoy. Dai Due guests Susan and Jay Stein were drawn to a recent dinner because of the family-style nature, and were delighted to share their meal with three other couples who were previously strangers. “The food is wonderful and you can have a conversation with people you have very little in common with except that you all like food,”
SUPPER CLUBS IN AUSTIN Bread & Circus Supper Club www.pinkavocadoblog.com Dai Due Supper Club daidueaustin.net Dinner Lab dinnerlab.com/austin L’Oca D’Oro locadoroaustin.com Marfa Table marfatable.com Secret Dining Hub meetup.com/secret-dining-supper-clubs-in-austin Supper Friends swoopevents.com/swoop-house/supperfriends For more listings, visit edibleaustin.com
says Susan. “It’s just the most pleasant evening possible.”
Discover why Austin is the Live Music Capital of the World!
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208 W. 4th Street | cedarstreetaustin.com 56
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John "Tony" Galindo, John Galindo, John's sister Jessica Galindo Winters with her husband Adam Winters and children Ava and Adam Winters.
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cooking FRESH
The Galindo Family by Lay n e V i cto r i a Ly n c h • P h oto g rap h y by Kat e L eSu eu r V i n tag e p h oto g rap h s c o u rt esy o f t h e Ga l i n d o Fam i ly
T
hough there’s no evidence that proves cooking is a genetic
each to Tex-Mex restaurants around town) and dreaming up vari-
predisposition, the Galindo family would almost certainly
ous potential restaurant concepts. It was in this spirit that a young
make you believe otherwise. For over 70 years, the hard-
John spent his teenage years busing tables, taking catnaps atop
working clan has embraced all the madness and passion the inferno
stacks of white aprons between shifts and racing fellow line cooks
of the kitchen has to offer as waiters, busboys, line cooks and ex-
to see who could chop pico de gallo and guacamole fixings the fast-
ecutive chefs. “I honestly believe it’s something that’s embedded in
est. “I’m blessed to have all my fingers,” he jokes. “But truthfully, I
our DNA,” says John Galindo. “My family has always enjoyed being
look back on those days and realize a lot of memories were made
surrounded by food, working hard and cooking for people. We’ve
at those places.”
found a lot of passion and joy through those experiences.”
These days, John and his sister, father and cousin can be found
Through the various roots and branches of their close-knit fam-
at Mellizoz Tacos—the 42-foot Tex-Mex food trailer on South First
ily tree, the Galindos have witnessed the vast evolution of our lo-
Street. The black-and-blue mobile kitchen debuted in 2009, featur-
cal culinary scene—beginning first with John’s great-grandfather,
ing a menu of both classic and modern taco and torta interpre-
Cruz Galindo, who cooked at The Tavern, co-owned a burger stand
tations—including the Padre (braised carnita pork, soft avocado,
and the San Jacinto Cafe and co-opened the original Casa Loma
sweet pineapple and salsa fresca) and the ever-popular tempura-
in Austin with his son Tony, John's granddad. Tony also waited
battered Fried Avocado taco (avocado, arugula, tomato, chipotle-
tables along with John's grandmother, Mary Cortinas, at various
sherry vinaigrette and Cotija cheese). And while business is going
Austin restaurants including El Charro. And finally, John's father,
exceedingly well at the trailer, the family members will admit tran-
John "Tony" Galindo, reopened Casa Loma and founded the Cedar
sitioning to a brick-and-mortar restaurant isn’t something that’s far
Grove Steakhouse, both in Wimberley and both now shuttered.
from their minds. “We definitely have plans to open a restaurant
John is a proud member of the fourth restaurant generation along-
again one day,” Tony Galindo says. “But we see it like a bamboo
side his business partner and sister, Jessica Ann Winters, and chef-
tree: you spend five years nurturing it and it grows suddenly in
cousin, Joseph Galindo. And while these cooks have definitely paid
thirty days. You have to ask yourself, though, did that tree grow
their dues in places like Wink, North and Red House Pizzeria, they
over five years or was it something that happened in one month?
cannot escape the ever-profound sway of their culinary heritage.
Whenever we do open something, it’ll be the right time for us and
During John’s childhood, his grandmother’s kitchen served as
it’ll be because we put in the effort over the years.”
the epicenter and lifeblood of everything family. It was here where
In piecing together this family-inspired winter menu, John drew
members young and old convened to prepare daylong meals, and
upon both memory and professional experience—infusing small-
catch up on the intricacies and gossip of one another’s lives. On
but-meaningful modern touches into his family’s favorite recipes.
the weekends, the South Austin home would fill with the enticing aromas of homemade Texas pecan pralines, fried pumpkin empanadas, thick tamales made with boiled hog’s head meat, bubbly yellow-corn tortilla enchiladas and spicy-yet-simple chicken mole. “Yankee Candle had nothing on the smells that came out of that kitchen,” John Galindo says. “It’s one of those things you don’t realize will have such an impact on your life. Her kitchen influenced all of us in the food we prepare today, and there’s something to be said for that.” Over the years, the Galindo family has ritualistically honored their culinary lineage—waking early on mornings to mix masa, tender pork and savory beans and spread it into delicate husks on a six-foot table in the backyard; melting giant batches of nutty pralines onto wax paper (selling the resulting candies for five cents
Tamales de Puerco All recipes courtesy of John Galindo Makes 2 dozen I remember my grandma having a tamalada about a week after Thanksgiving—inviting her sister, a friend and my aunt over to help. A rearrangement of her dining room into a makeshift prep area and the kitchen was in full swing. Tejano music in the background and intense Spanish conversation and laughing about who knows what in the fore, they filled corn husks and counted how many dozens were made—it was quite the production. Grandma always bought a hog’s head for the tamales, but for this recipe, I’m using pork butt because it has a great ratio of fat to muscle. For the filling: 3 lb. pork butt 2 medium shallots, trimmed, peeled and cut into quarters 4 cloves garlic, peeled 3 dried ancho chilies, rehydrated with hot water 3 dried pasilla chilies, rehydrated with hot water 1½ t. toasted ground cumin 4½ t. kosher salt For the masa: ²/³ c. lard 4 c. masa harina 1 T. baking powder 1 T. salt 3 c. warm pork stock, reserved from filling recipe 24 corn husks, soaked in hot water until softened Lightly trim the pork butt if it hasn’t been done already, then cut it into 2- to 3-inch cubes. In a large pot, place the pork, shallots and garlic, cover with water and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer and skim the surface as needed. Cook for 2 hours, or until tender. In the meantime, puree the peppers with about 1½ cups of their soaking water. Take the pork out of the liquid and reserve the broth for making the masa. Shred the meat in a bowl and add the cooked shallots, garlic and the chili puree to it. Toss this mixture together and season with the toasted cumin and salt. In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, add the lard and cream it until it’s light and fluffy. In a separate bowl, mix the masa harina with the baking powder and salt, then gradually add the dry ingredients to the lard a little at a time. Add the stock—you want the masa to be pretty smooth and not too stiff so it can spread easily. Pat the corn husks dry and, using your hands, add 3 tablespoons of masa—about the size of a golf ball—to the center of the smooth, concave side of one of the corn husks with the tapered side facing away from you. Spread it out in the center of the husk leaving room at the top and bottom for folding. Place 2 tablespoons of the pork filling in the center of the masa then fold the sides of the masa around it so that the pork is completely covered. Fold the tapered end of the husk over, toward the bottom. Repeat with the remaining husks to make 24 tamales. Steam the tamales with the bottom of the husk facing down for about 45 minutes, or until the masa releases from the husk. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes and enjoy!
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Caldo de Rez (Beef Soup) Serves 4 to 6
This is a great light-bodied soup, reminiscent of a pho with root vegetables. It opens you up, especially if it’s a little cold outside, and is best served with flame-toasted corn tortillas or some johnnycakes and butter. 3 lb. bone-in short ribs, cut into 3-in. cubes 2 T. salt 1 t. pepper 2 T. olive oil ½ small onion, cut into medium dice 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 5 c. warm beef stock, divided ¹/8 t. fresh thyme leaves 1 t. ground coriander ½ t. Mexican oregano 1 bay leaf 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped 2 turnips, peeled and cut into wedge-like eighths 2 medium white potatoes, cut into eighths 2 T. chopped fresh cilantro 4 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced ¼ medium head cabbage, cored and cut into wedges 2 ears corn, cleaned and cut into thirds Garnishes: Fresh cilantro leaves Fresh serrano peppers, thinly sliced Radishes, thinly sliced Onion, finely chopped Lime wedges Preheat a 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven or large pot over medium-high heat. Season the beef with the salt and pepper and brown thoroughly in the olive oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onions sweat—about 5 minutes—then add 2 cups of the beef stock. Add the thyme, coriander, oregano and bay leaf. Let this simmer for 1 hour to break down the beef ribs a bit. Toss in the carrots, turnips and potatoes, give it a good stir, and add the remaining beef stock. Let this cook on medium for another 45 minutes. Finally, add the cilantro, tomatoes, cabbage and corn and let it cook for another 20 minutes. Serve in bowls with a garnish of a little cilantro, a touch of thinly sliced serrano peppers, shaved radish, finely chopped onions and a squeeze of lime juice.
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Chicken and Mole Serves 6 to 7 Traditional moles can take hours to make. This recipe is a more simplified, modern take on the dish. 4 dried pasilla chilies 4 dried ancho chilies 1 whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces 3 c. chicken stock, divided 2 T. lard 1 c. blanched almonds 2 T. sesame seeds ¼ c. peanut butter 1 large onion, cut into small dice 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 flour tortilla, chopped and crumbled
¹/8 t. ground cloves ¹/8 t. cinnamon ½ t. ground coriander ¼ t. ground anise ½ c. raisins 3 small tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped 2 chipotles in adobo, seeded 3 T. vegetable oil 1 T. Nutella 1 T. kosher salt, plus more to taste
Soak the pasilla and ancho peppers in warm water for 30 to 60 minutes then remove the stems and seeds. Place the chicken pieces in a braiser and cover halfway with stock, using about 2 cups. Lightly salt the chicken pieces, cover the pot and cook on medium-high heat until the chicken is almost cooked through—about 20 minutes. Drain the stock and reserve it. Pat the chicken dry—taking off as much moisture as possible from the skin. Heat the lard in a sauté pan and brown the chicken pieces. Place the browned chicken back into the pot and keep warm, off of the heat. In a second sauté pan, toast the almonds and sesame seeds then combine in a blender or food processer with the peanut butter, onion, garlic, tortilla, spices, raisins, tomatoes and pasilla, ancho, and chipotle chilies, pulsing to a puree. Heat the vegetable oil in the same pan used to brown the chicken, then add the puree and cook over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes— stirring constantly. Add the reserved chicken stock, Nutella and salt and simmer until all the ingredients are well combined—about 5 minutes. Pour the sauce over the chicken pieces in the large pot, cover and cook at a simmer for another 45 minutes—stirring occasionally. A nice nappe consistency is desired (the sauce should coat the back of a spoon)—if the sauce is too thick, add a little water or canned stock.
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COOKBOOKS FOR EVERY KITCHEN
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1½ c. sugar ½ c. brown sugar ½ c. milk 1½ c. toasted pecan halves 2 T. butter 1 t. vanilla extract Dash of salt Grease a cleaned countertop or cookie sheet. In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the sugar, brown sugar and milk. Bring to a boil and add the pecans, butter, vanilla and salt. Heat to 245°. Quickly and carefully drop small spoonfuls onto the prepared area and let cool completely.
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COOKS at home
Suzanna Choffel by C l a i r e C e l l a • p h oto g r ap h y by Kat e L eSu eu r
I
n a city that lays claim to having it all, Suzanna Choffel has
home for the breakfast hour, or, she says with a laugh, at least
discovered something it doesn’t have.
awake for the brunch hour—which makes breakfast tacos ideal. Her hectic lifestyle warrants the need for such fast and effortless
Breakfast tacos.
Good ones—like the ones she unknowingly took for granted in
meals, and she’s perfectly okay with that. “I ate a lot of cereal this summer,” she confesses unabashedly,
her hometown of Austin. Although New York City—where the 33-year-old musician
and says that even when she was younger, she remembers always
has lived for two years—may have unparalleled bagels and pizza,
being too busy and too energetic to cook (by the age of 14, she was
Choffel says it lacks the fresh-off-the-skillet flour tortillas and
already a budding local star).
chunky homemade salsa Austin has on almost every street corner.
“I have two sisters,” she says. “And out of the three of us, I
These two ingredients are essential to a hearty and tasty break-
was the one who cooked the least. I was that crazy-busy kid; I
fast taco, Choffel says. And unfortunately, they’re nearly impos-
just showed up for meals and ate them. I got a little more curious
sible to find in the Big Apple.
about cooking in college when I lived on my own, and realized:
That’s why when this Austin native gets homesick, she can be
okay, I have to cook now.”
found in her cramped city kitchen, preparing her taco fix. Nothing
Although cooking isn’t a task Choffel presently devotes a great
elaborate, nothing gourmet, though—she’s an acclaimed musician
deal of time to—she’s in the kitchen about three or four times
with a full and often fluctuating schedule, after all. Choffel is also
a week—she admits that cooking can be a creative process, and
a woman who knows what she likes and isn’t afraid to admit it,
she’s learned to approach it in the same way she intuitively ap-
even if it is just a humble combination of scrambled eggs, fried
proaches music: with resourcefulness and imagination.
potatoes, sprinkles of cheese and sliced avocado, all folded into flour tortillas and drizzled with salsa.
“A little bit of a lot of things,” she says of her techniques. “My cooking style is very laid-back. I don’t follow recipes; I interpret
This consoling ritual is usually reserved for special lazy week-
them. I do that with my music, too. I don’t like to stick to rules or
end afternoons twice a month, because during the week and
forms. I take liberty with melodies and rhythms. Up on stage, I’m
most weekends, Choffel’s days are packed like the cars stuck in
very easygoing, I like to think, and I’m very similar in the kitchen:
the morning commute just outside her window. She and her boy-
free-spirited, interpretive, laid-back.”
friend, Paul Oveisi, are rarely around for dinner, she says, and
This energy, eccentricity and candor are absolutely evident
that’s usually a meal that she can eat on the go. But she’s typically
in Choffel’s music—it’s like she’s opened a cabinet stocked with her musical talents, interests and genres and, similar to her cooking technique, picked an assortment of things she knew she liked, shook them together and created a savory, soulful sound. She’s been experimenting musically since her early years on the stages of the Saxon Pub, the Broken Spoke and the Continental Club, tapping into a range of genres from R & B and soul to folk, jazz and hip-hop. Her three records have followed her curious and creative flair, though none of them sound quite like the others. For her upcoming album, which she hopes to release within the next year, she says she wants to come back to her roots. Although perhaps not physically, quite yet. “I’m happy where I’m at,” she says of her career and New York, but she plans to continue visiting and playing in Austin. Even if only to smuggle a bag of still-warm flour tortillas and a jar of D.L. Jardine’s Habanero Salsa into her suitcase for the flight back East. Something she’s been known to do.
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Suzanna’s Homesick Breakfast Tacos Makes 6 3 T. olive oil, divided 6 cloves garlic, chopped 1 small yellow onion, sliced 6–7 new or small russet potatoes, unpeeled and sliced 1 t. cayenne (paprika can be substituted to eliminate spice) 1 t. dried oregano 1 t. sea salt 1 t. black pepper 6 eggs 8 oz. shredded Colby-jack cheese (or any cheese you prefer) 6 fresh flour tortillas 1 small avocado, sliced Salsa of choice (see edibleaustin.com for Suzanna’s Homesick Salsa recipe)
In a skillet or frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the garlic and onion over medium-low heat until the garlic and onion are slightly browned. Add the potatoes and the remaining olive oil and cook over medium heat—flipping and stirring occasionally. While the potatoes cook, season them with the cayenne, oregano, salt and black pepper. Cover and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender in the middle (check with fork prongs). Reduce the heat to low. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs in a bowl and add a pinch of salt and pepper, to taste. After the potatoes are cooked, pour in the egg mixture—stirring until the eggs are light and fluffy. When the eggs are almost finished cooking, sprinkle in the shredded cheese. Remove from the heat and keep warm. Heat the flour tortillas on a low, open flame or stove burner for 5 to 10 seconds on each side. Fill the warmed tortillas with an equal mixture of eggs and potato—adding more cheese if desired. Top with avocado slices and, of course, plenty of salsa. Serve warm. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
67
The SHRUB by Kate Payne Photography by Jo Ann Santangelo
I
t’s not news that pickled fruits make great snacks. But it turns out that the leftover syrup in the jar makes a fabulous beverage, for both the saucy and the chaste. After Portlandia’s “I-can-pickle-
that” spirit has its way with the pantry, enter phase two: the shrub. A shrub, the kind you drink, not trim, is made from a fruit-infused vinegar syrup that’s sweetened and diluted with club soda or still water. The word “shrub” is derived from the Arabic verb shariba, which means “to drink or sip,” and thanks to an Arabic-speaking friend weighing in on the matter, I learned that the noun form of the word—pronounced sharAAB—translates to “drink,” “wine,” “fruit juice” or “fruit syrup,” depending on the context. The pre18th-century English shrubs as beverages were more like ultra-concentrated boozy cordials, and their predecessors, medicinal extracts, were made without any vinegar at all. Alcohol and sugar in large
egary syrup excess would be a possibility. I can the jars of syrup
quantities—think rumtopf or bachelor’s jam—were the preservative
alongside the jars of fruit pickles.
factors signature to these premade punch starters or flavor boost-
There’s no one right way to make a shrub. Use plain and simple
ers typically used to jazz up barrels of distilled alcohol tainted by
white vinegar as a solid base for developing other flavors, or try
seawater. As delicious as this may sound, I think the 18th-century
apple cider vinegar, red or white wine vinegar or Champagne vin-
Americans had it right when they decided to pour vinegar over fruit
egar. To any of the above vinegars as a base, add a splash of bal-
and let its solvent nature extract summer’s fleeting flavors.
samic vinegar to further develop the shrub’s complexity, or add
The American incarnation of shrubs evolved from our agrarian past, small-scale, regional sustenance farming and the lack of
fresh ginger, herbs and various spices to vinegar or syrup infusions to layer the flavors.
refrigeration technology. Family farms had fruit trees and berry
Beyond the limitless flavor possibilities, the business of shrub
bushes and needed a way to preserve spring and summer without
making may be accomplished in a number of ways. The easiest
freezers and refrigerators. Beyond the volume of fruit going into
method by far is to use leftover syrup from a jar of pickled fruit.
wines, meads and ciders, harvested fruit was either covered with
When no fruit pickles are available, the magic formula to remem-
sugar, left to macerate for a day or two and then doused in vinegar
ber is 1:1:1, or one part each fruit, vinegar and sugar or syrup. My
or vice versa: covered in vinegar for a few days then cooked with
preferred method is a cold infusion, but others may choose to
sugar into a syrup. The fruit was strained out and this shelf-stable
heat the fruit in the vinegar to kick off the infusion differently. Al-
concoction was kept in reserve for flavoring water, possibly mak-
ternative sugars are fine, but eliminating one of the preservative
ing it safer to drink by way of the vinegar content.
aspects (sugar) from the mix might decrease the shelf life of the
The earliest colonial recipes involved raspberries, an abundance “dilemma” we don’t face in Central Texas, but shrubs come
shrub concentrate. Check the concentrate before use to ensure there are no signs of bubbling or mold.
in all fruit shapes and sizes. I began my shrub-making days with
One exception to the master ratio above is a shrub that happens
the overage from my cautious fruit-pickling endeavors. It’s shat-
often around this house. I use our home-fermented fruit-scrap vin-
tering to go through a canning recipe meticulously and discover a
egars, add a bit of honey or agave directly to the vinegar and top
brine deficiency when it comes time to fill the jars. After one such
it off with fizzy water. A raw, live-cultured shrub! (Learn to make
disaster, I made a point to always increase the brine volume when
apple cider vinegar in the Fall 2012 issue; use other kinds of fruit
canning fruit pickles knowing—or hoping, really—that fruity, vin-
scraps to personalize drinking vinegars via that method.)
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Seasonal Shrub Makes 3 cups 2 c. any seasonal fruit 2 c. white vinegar 2 c. sugar 2 c. water Wash a quart-size mason jar with hot, soapy water but do not dry. Chop the fruit into roughly 1-inch cubes and drop them directly into the jar. Add the vinegar, cap the jar and allow the fruit to infuse the vinegar for 1 to 3 days. Strain the fruit from the vinegar and use the fruit as the base of a chutney or savory sauce. Wash the jar with hot, soapy water again and do not dry. Make a simple syrup by combining the sugar and water, and add it and the strained vinegar to the jar. Store the shrub concentrate in the refrigerator, where it will keep for up to six months. To make drinks, add 1 to 3 tablespoons of shrub concentrate to an 8- to 12-ounce glass of sparkling water. Garnish with pickled fruit.
Meyer Lemon Spice Syrup Makes 1 pint 4 large or 5 medium Meyer lemons 1 c. sugar ¼ c. water 6 allspice berries, roughly crushed Zest one of the lemons before juicing it and reserve zest in a small bowl. Juice all of the lemons and strain the pulp from the juice. Measure the volume, adding more juice, if needed, to reach 1 cup. In a small saucepan, dissolve the sugar in the water over low heat. Bring to a boil until the bubbles are about the size of a dime (5 to 10 minutes) then remove from the heat. Add the Meyer lemon juice to the sugar syrup and bring it back to a boil. Remove from the heat, decant into a just-washed pint jar and let cool.
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Once the jar has cooled considerably, add the zest and allspice directly to the syrup. Cap the jar and allow it to infuse in the fridge overnight or for up to 3 days. Strain the syrup and store in the refrigerator for up to 6 months. Enjoy in a soda, cocktail or add to an infused vinegar to make a shrub concentrate!
Grapefruit Shrub Syrup Makes 1¼ cups Winter in Texas presents an interesting shrub opportunity for the citrus bounty.
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1 organic grapefruit 1 c. white vinegar 1 c. sugar Wash one pint jar and lid with hot, soapy water but do not dry. Peel the grapefruit rind in strips, using a vegetable peeler, and pack the strips into the jar. Pour the vinegar over the rind strips and allow to infuse at room temperature for 24 hours. Strain the vinegar and combine with the sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Return the syrup to a freshly washed and un-dried pint jar. Allow the liquid to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for up to 6 months.
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HEIRLOOM 2013
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La Casita de Buen Sabor
Grandma’s Piccalilli
T
hroughout my child-
son jars boiled and something
hood, I spent every
sweet and spicy simmered on
Tuesday night with my
the stove. It was piccalilli, and
grandmother in her enchant-
even the name of it delighted
ing El Paso home. It was like
me. Grandma was putting up
a vacation to a faraway land.
her highly sought-after spe-
Her pink pueblo-style home
cialty that she would give
had a dramatic three-story-
away as Christmas gifts. She
high stained glass window
let me taste a spoonful and
depicting a yucca shooting
the sweet, savory and piquant
its flower stalk into the sky
flavors danced in my mouth.
against
She explained that piccalilli—
purple
mountains.
Dark wooded floors, Navajo rugs, ornately carved furniture and
a favorite condiment in mid-18th century England—is a slightly
a staircase with a wrought-iron railing offset the stucco walls
sweet and savory relish comprised of onions, tomatoes, peppers,
adorned with paintings by Santa Fe masters. And collections
vinegar, sugar and spice, and is sometimes referred to as “Indian
of handblown Mexican glass, worldly treasures and volumes of
pickle.” Of course, she added her own touches: strips of fire-roast-
books from every genre lined shelves in the rooms.
ed New Mexico green chiles, cinnamon, allspice and brown sugar.
But it was the kitchen that especially captivated me. Its Saltillo
Throughout the winter, Grandma’s piccalilli enlivened many of
floor tiles were burnished from wear, and the countertop was laid
our meals—especially roasted pork, chicken and turkey, or cheese
with a vivid pattern of cobalt and orange Talavera tiles. An open
toasts and scrambled eggs.
shelf showcased Mexican earthenware pottery like cazuelas (cas-
I love making this recipe on a chilly winter’s eve, and I’ve dis-
serole dishes), a bean pot and even a pot shaped like a fat chicken.
covered even more ways to serve it, like mounding it atop a sa-
Grandma’s kitchen was such a departure from the Formica, lino-
vory, sharp Cheddar cheese ball, mixing it into chile con queso,
leum and lace found in many kitchens of that era.
adding it to a sauté of eggplant, okra or squash or as a topping for
We often ate in what Grandma called the “taproom” (or
roasted potatoes or butternut squash. Sometimes I add a dollop
cantina)—a small room nestled off of the kitchen where a cuckoo
to beef or hearty winter stews, or use it as a delicious sauce for
clock reminded us what time to gather around the polished cop-
spaghetti or pappardelle or as the best hamburger relish ever! But
per-topped table with wooden legs carved with flowers. There,
I think one of my favorite uses for piccalilli is to add it to freshly
Grandma introduced me to foods not often served in El Paso; my
cooked black-eyed peas for a New Year’s Eve feast.
favorite was the artichoke we often shared—plucking off each leaf
Sometimes it’s hard for me to conjure up memories from long
to reveal that glorious heart and dipping chunks of it in drawn
ago. However, the taste of a recipe lovingly passed down easily
butter. We watched a cheese soufflé magically poof, and spooned
takes me back to childhood. I want to be in Grandma’s kitchen
a bright green sauce of fresh mint, sugar and vinegar over leg of
again, at that copper table, to thank her for inspiring my own
lamb. Comfort foods come to mind like chipped beef on toast,
eclectic home, recipes and lifestyle. Today, my casita is filled with
meatloaf smothered in a thick and tangy tomato sauce and cloud-
many keepsakes from her beloved home. I offer this heirloom
like angel food cake mounded with strawberries. Some nights, the
recipe with the wish that you, too, will reminisce and bring to life
pungent scent of enchilada sauce, or the earthy smell of frijoles
happy memories from your past. Grandma would be pleased that
simmering on the stove, filled the kitchen.
I am sharing her piccalilli with you. It’s a recipe guaranteed to
One Tuesday in the fall, I stepped into her steamy kitchen as ma70
HEIRLOOM 2013
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
bring good fortune and good cheer to the season.
Photography by Kristina Wolter
by Lucinda Hutson
Grandma’s Piccalilli
weekly, local prix-fixe menu • family owned
Makes 5 to 6 cups ½ t. whole allspice ½ t. whole black peppercorns 4 whole cloves 1–2 dried red chiles de arbol or cayenne peppers 3 T. olive oil 1 large white onion, chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 red bell peppers, chopped 6 medium tomatoes, chopped (about 4 c.) ½ t. ground cinnamon 3 T. cider or red wine vinegar (or more to taste) 2 t. brown sugar (or more to taste) ½ t. salt 4–6 green Anaheim or Hatch chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded and cut into rajas, or strips 3 T. tequila reposado or smoky mezcal (optional)
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In a spice grinder, grind the allspice, black pepper, cloves and dried chiles and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a large pan. Cook the onions until translucent, then add the garlic and bell peppers and toss briefly. Add the tomatoes and simmer to reduce the liquid slightly. Add the cinnamon, the spices from the grinder, and the vinegar, brown sugar and salt. Simmer for about 25 minutes to desired thickness then add the roasted chiles and the tequila or mezcal, if using, and cook for an additional 10 minutes. Taste to achieve the perfect balance of sweet, spicy, tangy and piquant—adding more vinegar, brown sugar and salt, if needed. Keep refrigerated for several days.
Black-Eyed Peas with Grandma’s Piccalilli
Locally owned wine shop offering affordable wines for home, special events or to enjoy on our patio!
Serves 8 2 lbs. fresh black-eyed peas ½ lb. smoky peppered bacon or 2 meaty ham bones 1 onion, quartered and each quarter studded with 1 clove 2 bay leaves Small handful freshly snipped oregano and/or savory or thyme Salt, to taste 3 T. tequila reposado or smoky mezcal (optional) Grandma’s Piccalilli (recipe above) Chopped green onions, as garnish Chopped fresh jalapeños, as garnish
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A USTI N
Place the black-eyed peas, bacon, onion, bay leaves, oregano and salt in a heavy pot and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 25 minutes—adding the tequila or mezcal toward the end of cooking. Let the peas cool in the broth, then drain and reserve the broth. Cut the meat into bits, discard the fat and return to the peas. Pour enough of the piccalilli (most of it) over the black-eyed peas and simmer for about 12 minutes—adding a small amount of reserved broth, if needed. Serve in warm bowls accompanied by corn bread, and top the peas with the chopped green onions and peppers, if desired.
G R OW N
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CU I SI N E
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HEIRLOOM 2013
71
edible GARDENS
Heritage Grains by Lau ra M cK i ssac k
H
eritage grains are those that have remained much the
heritage grains are packed with flavor and nutrition and bring a
same, genetically speaking, as when early European, An-
great diversity of taste and texture to the palate. Cooked, they
dean and Aztec farmers tilled their fields, and they’ve
are excellent in salads, casseroles and breads and are a nutritious
played a huge role in supporting ancient societies. Quinoa, for
alternative to oatmeal.
example, has sustained the people of the Andes for thousands
In Central Texas, one of the easiest of these grains to grow is
of years, and amaranth—revered as a holy plant and an essential
amaranth, and there are several varieties to choose from. Some,
source of nutrition by the ancient Aztecs—was once banned by
like Green Callaloo or Joseph’s Coat (a favorite of Thomas Jef-
Spanish conquistadores who believed its great importance to the
ferson), are best grown for their leaves and provide a nutritious
people to be idolatrous.
addition to summer salads. The larger, tougher leaves are deli-
These grains are gaining popularity as substitutes for much
cious tossed in olive oil and grilled in a grill basket. Others, such
of the wheat and other grains that have been modified to pro-
as Burgundy or Golden Giant amaranth, can be grown for their
vide the highest yields and fewest diseases possible—sometimes
seed and make gorgeous, striking centerpieces as they can grow
at the expense of flavor and nutrition. Also, many heritage grains
to over eight feet tall with brilliant golden and burgundy plumes
are important to those intolerant to gluten, found in wheat pro-
that stay lush and keep their color well into late summer. In the
tein. But aside from being great alternatives to wheat products,
garden or landscape, amaranth enjoys full sun, is very heat-hardy
72
HEIRLOOM 2013
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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73
and can be planted directly in the ground about a quarter-inch
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deep after the last threat of frost. It’s usually among the first things to sprout up—roughly three to ten days to germination. Amaranth seed can be harvested once the seed heads have matured and are beginning to lose their color. Test readiness by plucking one frond and rubbing it between your palms over a plate. If the seeds fall out easily and have a bit of a crunch to them, they are ready. To harvest the rest, you’ll need a bowl or
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bag to catch the seeds in as they’re worked out, and some sort of
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and work them between your hands over the strainer until most
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strainer set over it to catch the larger chaff and stems while letting the seeds fall through. Pluck the fronds from the main stem of the seeds have fallen out. What will be left is a quantity of small chaff and seeds. The chaff of amaranth is heavier than that
Food | Music | Art
It’s more than a market.
of wheat and other grains, and the seed lighter, so winnowing must be done carefully. One method is to place a handful of seed at a time on a plate and blow gently while rolling the seeds toward you. (The chaff is edible, so no need to worry about getting every last bit.) The yield varies based on the varietal as well as the growing conditions. There are, of course, heritage wheats, millets and barleys, as well, and several of our local growers and artisans are making good use of them. Chip McElroy at Live Oak Brewing Company is the
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only brewmaster in Texas who uses heritage wheat and other grains
www.hopefarmersmarket.org
Larry Butler of Boggy Creek Farm also grows heritage wheat, and is
Comal & East 5th Street
in his brewing process—lending a malty sweetness to the beers. trying a new variety called Sonora this year that was handed down by a friend. And several Central Texas farms, including Richardson Farms and Bar W Farm and Ranch, are growing unadulterated wheat and other grains, and are making their flours available at many of our local farmers markets and area restaurants. There are many reasons to explore heritage grains. Not only are they easy on the digestive system and highly flavorful and nutritious, but they are incredibly versatile in cooking and even easy to grow. Consider delving into the rich history of these seeds of the past, and try a few in the garden this spring.
Resources Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co. 2278 Baker Creek Road Mansfield, MO 65704 rareseeds.com Phone: 417-924-8917 seeds@rareseeds.com
Old-school baking with a twist! We use local ingredients and no corn syrup! Special Orders Available!
Come see our Treat Truck parked at Native South, 10106 S. Manchaca! Follow us on Facebook for hours and menu. Lots of sweet treats!!
512-417-9847 • pmstreats.com • follow us @pmstreats 74
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Bar W Farm and Ranch Route 1, Box 273 Mullin 325-985-3557 Boggy Creek Farm 3414 Lyons Road boggycreekfarm.com 512-926-4650 info@boggycreekfarm.com
Coyote Creek Organic Farm and Feed Mill 13817 Klaus Lane, Elgin coyotecreekfarm.org 512-285-2556 info@coyotecreekfarm.org Richardson Farms 2850 County Road 412 Rockdale richardsonfarms.com 512-635-3691 JRDVM72@aol.com Seeds of Change P.O. Box 4908 Rancho Dominguez, CA 90220 seedsofchange.com 888-762-7333
Book your special event today!
culinary adventures
Where dinner can be the best part of the celebration.
Team-building exercises, hands-on cooking lessons and fully
catered events for food enthusiasts utilizing the school’s 9,000 square foot garden, commercial kitchens, and dining room.
For more information contact: Special Events Manager, Nancy Marr 512-451-5743 / nmarr @ escoffier.edu 6020-B Dillard Circle Austin, Texas 78752 / www.myculinaryadventure.com.
13-0755_Escoffier_EdibleAustinAd.indd 1
9/27/13 12:39 PM
Uptown Blanco Restaurant Chef prepared specials and an excellent wine selection add a unique culinary charm to our small town dining experience. We’re located in Blanco, the heart of the Hill Country, just a short drive from anywhere. Reserve your table now for our Christmas or New Years Eve dinners.
On the Town Square in Blanco www.UptownBlanco.com
UB AD Edible Austin Cooks Issue 2013.indd 1
. 830 833-1579
11/1/2013 1:23:18 PM
Bring your business to this
Culinary Destination! Availability for businesses of all sizes.
Pecan Capital of the World tguidroz@gmail.com
325-372-8291
sansabatexas.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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Green Corn Project
Garden Legacy by David Huebel
agencies and several nonprofit organizations including the Sustainable Food Center, the Austin Project and Austin Interfaith, alongside community food partners like Urban Roots, Urban Patchwork Neighborhood Farms and GCP that are working together to bring better nutrition and healthier lifestyles to Dove Springs. When Abby Ames, the associate director of College Completion and AmeriCorps for Breakthrough Austin, contacted GCP to see if we had a project for a team of high-school seniors, we thought building a
O
n a hot, dry day last August, I had the pleasure of working with a
garden for Alcauter might be the perfect experience. When I arrived
team of 11 Green Corn Project (GCP) volunteers to install a gar-
at her home the morning of the dig-in, one of the students, Marquise
den for Alba Alcauter in the southeast Austin neighborhood of Dove
Stampley, also a resident of Dove Springs, was already enjoying a cup
Springs. The volunteers were eight high-school seniors and three staff
of coffee with Alcauter and a neighbor. “I had never met Alba before,
members from Breakthrough Austin, a nonprofit organization found-
but she welcomed me into her home,” says Stampley. When the rest
ed in 2001 to build pathways to college for low-income students who
of the team arrived, we headed to the backyard where I had staked
would be first-generation college graduates.
the four-by-twelve-foot area for the garden bed. Despite the August
Alcauter grew up on a farm in Michoacán, Mexico, in a house built by her father that had two-foot-thick adobe walls made from local clay.
heat and the rather limited gardening experience of the volunteers, the crew eagerly went to work digging in the garden.
She says it was always comfortable inside, no matter how hot or cold
When I visited Alcauter’s garden a couple of weeks later, it was
it was outside. She has fond memories of working and playing on the
thriving. The basil—her favorite herb—was tall, and the seeds for
farm with her 13 brothers and sisters among the cows, horses, chickens,
squash, green beans and cucumbers had sprouted. The tomato plant
turkeys, vegetables and fruit trees, and she cries when she talks about
was dark green and healthy. Alcauter says she’s ready for more beds so
her mother, who passed away two years ago. “I learned so much from
that she can grow lots of onions and garlic—two staples in her kitchen.
her about how to eat the right foods to stay healthy,” she says. After high school, Alcauter moved to California, and later to Austin, where she’s currently raising her son and daughter and trying to
Hopefully this will be the first of many gardens in Dove Springs, and once the Breakthrough Austin students graduate from college, they’ll remember the experience and plant gardens of their own.
feed them as her mother taught her. She’s active in Go Austin/Vamos
For more information, visit greencornproject.org and
Austin (GAVA)—a coalition of Dove Springs residents, City of Austin
breakthroughaustin.org
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THE Directory ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class, or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610; 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com
Broken Arrow Ranch We field harvest truly wild animals for high-quality free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat. Diamond H Ranch Quail from Bandera also available. 830-367-5875 3296 Junction Hwy., Ingram brokenarrowranch.com
Texas Hill Country Olive Company The Texas Hill Country Olive Company is a family-owned business committed to supplying the highest quality olive oil produced in the United States. 512-607-6512 2530 W. Fitzhugh Rd., Dripping Springs texashillcountryoliveco.com
Texas Olive Ranch Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil & balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas. 877-461-4708 texasoliveranch.com
VOM FASS
Dishalicious creates custom food programs for all types of businesses. 512-827-7126; dishalicious.com
VOM FASS is the premier specialty retailer of the world’s finest gourmet oils, vinegars, spirits, liqueurs and wines. 512-637-9545; 3663 Bee Cave Rd. vomfassaustin.com
Fischer & Wieser Specialty Foods, Inc.
Bakeries
Dishalicious
From the farm to your family table, we have been creating exciting, delicious and award-winning gourmet products for over 40 years in Fredericksburg! 830-997-8969 1406 S. US Hwy. 87, Fredericksburg 830-990-8490 315 E. Main St., Fredericksburg 800-369-9257 411 S. Lincoln St., Fredericksburg jelly.com
Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our shop, locally sourced and seasonally inspired. 512-363-5622; 2032 S. Lamar Blvd. ilikelick.com
Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a family-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6218; 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarfood.com
Noble Pig Sandwiches
Better Bites Bakery We are a gluten-free certified/vegan bakery specializing in delightful treats with special dietary needs, and high food standards, in mind. 512-350-2271 11190 Circle Dr., Ste. 350 betterbitesbakery.com
Blue Note Bakery Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasion. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com
Bonterra
Wedding Oak Winery
This certified organic winery in Mendocino County, California, produces world-class wines, including sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. bonterra.com
Located in the northern Hill Country, Wedding Oak Winery creates Texas wines from 100% Texas-grown warm weather varietals. Our Texas roots run deep! 325-372-4050 316 E. Wallace, San Saba weddingoakwinery.com
Brooklyn Brewery Leading the world in beers made in Brooklyn. 718-486-7422 brooklynbrewery.com
Cuvée Coffee Cuvée is a specialty coffee roaster nestled in the Texas Hill Country. All coffee is directly sourced & roasted to order. 512-264-1479 cuveecoffee.com
East End Wines Locally owned wine shop offering affordable wines for home, special events, or enjoying on our patio! 512-904-9056; 1209 Rosewood Ave. eastendwinesatx.com
Hilmy Cellars Vineyards, winery & tasting room. 830-644-2482 12346 E. US Hwy. 290, Fredericksburg hilmywine.com
Texas best selling premium winery. 806-634-3854 www.llanowine.com
Paula’s Texas Spirits Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur and Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com
Spec’s Wine, Spirits and Finer Foods
Beverages 4.0 Cellars
Texas Coffee Traders
Old school baking with a twist. We use as much local produce as possible. We do small batch baking to keep the integrity of the product. 512-417-9847; pmstreats.com
BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com
University of Texas Press Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals and through electronic media. 512-252-3206 utexaspress.com
Catering and Meal Delivery Pink Avocado Catering
Llano Estacado Winery
Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’s largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260; 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893; 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400; 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981; 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300; 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com
Princess & Moose’s Sister Bakery
BOOKSELLERs
A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food & surprisingly personal service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St. Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com
Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com
Design And Construction Parrish & Company
East Austin’s artisanal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and Fair Trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279; 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com
For over 40 years, Parrish & Company has served Texas as a leading distributor of fine home products. Family owned and operated. 512-835-0937 3600 E. Old Settlers, Round Rock 830-980-9595 26995 Hwy. 281 N., San Antonio 210-255-1125 2500 N. Main Ave., San Antonio 956-797-9555 400 E. Expy. 83, La Feria/Corpus parrishandcompany.com
The Austin Wine Merchant
Tito’s Handmade Vodka
Texas Oven Co.
Locally owned and operated since 1991. Courteous and professional services. Careful selection. Competitive pricing. Gift wrap. Delivery within Austin. 512-499-0512; 512 W. 6th St. theaustinwinemerchant.com
Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn & distilled 6 times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011 titosvodka.com
Experts in designing and building woodburning ovens. Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art. We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer. 512-222-6836 texasovenco.com
Local sandwich shop featuring house cured meats, made from scratch breads, condiments and pickles. 512-382-6248; 11815 620 N., Ste. 4 noblepigaustin.com
4.0 Cellars is a tasting room and event venue serving the wines of Brennan Vineyards, Lost Oak Winery and McPherson Cellars. 830-997-7470; 10354 E. US Hwy. 290 fourpointwine.com
Spiral Horn Apiary Where millions of honey bees call home. The finest raw, unfiltered honey, handcrafted all-natural soap, body lotions and hand cream. Tours available. 325-792-6818; 8247 FM 502, Rochelle spiralhornapiary.com
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edible Marketplace 2804 HWY 21 E Bastrop TX
(Across from the State Park)
Sun-Thur: 10:30 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Fri & Sat: 10:30 a.m. - 10:00 p.m. RoadhouseBastrop.com
Madagascar Black Pepper Gourmet Sea Salts Culinary Herbs and Spices Wholesale and Retail
Private Party Catering! Jalapeno Cream Cheese Burger
One of Texas Monthly’s Best in Texas!
oldstonemarket.com • 830-864-5060
Fresh Organic Menu Local Brews on Tap
A
AUSTIN ALE HOUSE Happy Hour 4-7 Mon. 11 am-5 pm Tues.-Sat. 11 am-2 am
doslunascheese.com • 512-963-5357
as french bread te x
BAKERY
BISTRO
supporting local food with FARM TO TABLE DINNERS TUES. THROUGH SAT.
2900 rio grande . 512-499-0544 texasfrenchbread.com
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301 W. 6th Street www.TheAustinAleHouse.com
Beesstt ’sB Woorlrldd’s W Falafel
GUIDE
4601 N. Lamar Blvd. Austin, TX 78751 TEL. 512.323.2259 World’s Best Falafel
www.maozusa.com
A Day On The River Is Worth A Month In Town
Cabins ~ RV Spaces ~ Gift Shop 830-833-5115
www.blancosettlement.com
We make our wine from TEXAS fruit.
handcrafted honeywines
TexasHillsVineyard.com 1 mile east of Johnson City 830-868-2321 Tasting room open daily!
www.RohanMeadery.com
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Wimberley Glassworks See things in a different light! Wimberley Glassworks creates and designs beautiful custom handblown glass lighting and art, in our Texas studio since ‘92. 800-929-6686; 6469 RR 12, San Marcos wgw.com
Education Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts The Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts is teaching the next generation of chefs and pastry chefs the importance of sustainable and ethical choices. 512-451-5743; 6020-B Dillard Cir. escoffier.edu
The Natural Epicurean The place to go for a plant-based, comprehensive professional services training, plus public events and classes. Learn here— change your kitchen; change your life. 512-476-2276; 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com
Events Cedar Street Courtyard 300-plus bottles of spirits, craft beer and wine. Live music and dancing. 512-495-9669 cedarstreetaustin.com
Culinary Adventures at the August Escoffier School of Culinary Arts Culinary Adventures offers cooking classes, team building exercises and fully catered events in our beautiful garden and state of the art kitchens. 512-451-5743 myculinaryadventure.com
Edible Austin’s Eat Drink Local Week Support locally sourced food and celebrate sustainability with us! For a schedule of EDLW events, visit our website. edibleaustin.com/eatdrinklocal
Pinot’s Palette Join us for an unforgettable evening of fun, friends and fine art where you enjoy BYOB cocktails and we provide the canvases! 512-249-9672 13435 N. Hwy. 183, Ste. 306 pinotspalette.com/northaustin 512-326-2746 3005 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. B106 pinotspalette.com/southlamar
Farmers Markets
HOPE Farmers Market at Plaza Saltillo Sundays 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Come celebrate local food, art and live music every Sunday at our unique East Austin market! We accept SNAP/WIC. Free parking. 512-553-1832; 401 Comal St. hopefarmersmarket.org
Lone Star Farmers Market Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10 a.m.–2 p.m. in the Lowe’s parking lot. 512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100, Bee Cave lonestarfarmersmarket.com
Texas Farmers Market Cedar Park (Saturdays, 9 a.m.–1 p.m., Lakeline Mall) and Mueller Farmers Markets (Sundays, 10 a.m.–2 p.m., the historic Mueller Hangar). Open year round, rain or shine. 512-363-5700 11200 Lakeline Mall Dr., Cedar Park 4550 Mueller Blvd. texasfarmersmarket.org
Farms Boggy Creek Farm One of the first urban farms in the USA, BCF offers hyper-fresh vegetables at the on-farm stand, Wed. and Sat, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Stroll the farm and visit the hen house! 512-926-4650 3414 Lyons Rd. boggycreekfarm.com
Twin County Lamb We are ranchers embracing stewardship of the land providing premium quality all natural, free range lamb raised in the Texas Hill Country. 830-864-4717 30881 Ranch Rd. 385, Harper twincountydorpers.com
Grocers Farmhouse Delivery We bring the farm to your door, offering home or office delivery of local produce, meat, dairy, eggs and local, artisanal products. 512-529-8569 farmhousedelivery.com
Greenling Greenling is a home delivery service of organic & sustainably produced local food! 512-440-8449 greenling.com
Burton Farmers & Artisans Market Held the first Saturday of the month in downtown Burton. You’ll find unique & beautiful artisan wares, garden fresh produce, grassfed beef and more. 979-836-3696 burtontexas.org
in.gredients in.gredients is a zero-waste, package-free microgrocer selling local foods with pure ingredients. 512-275-6357; 2610 Manor Rd. in.gredients.com
Royal Blue Grocery
Mend Spa
Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer— with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 301 Brazos St., Ste. 101 royalbluegrocery.com
My specialties include structural analysis, deep tissue, sports, and most recently John Barnes, Myofascial Release Approach. Location: Unwind.Austin.Center 512-968-0234 1908 Koenig Ln. mendspa.com
Peoples Rx Wheatsville Food Co-op Serving up local, organic, sustainable and humanely raised food since 1976. Full service deli, hot bar, salad bar, espresso bar and eating area with wi-fi. 512-478-2667 3101 Guadalupe St. 512-814-2888 4001 S. Lamar Blvd. wheatsville.coop
Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com
Housewares and Gifts Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural & organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com
HEALTH AND BEAUTY Aquasana Healthy living starts with healthy water! Aquasana manufactures and sells high performance water filtration systems for home and commercial use. 866-662-6885 aquasana.com
Bicycle Sport Shop Bicycle Sport Shop has been selling bicycles and cycling equipment in Austin since 1983. Our goal is to get more people on bikes more often. 512-477-3472 517 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-7460 10947 Research Blvd. 512-637-6890 9900 W. Parmer Ln. bicyclesportshop.com
Callahan’s General Store “Austin’s real general store!” From hardware to westernwear, from feed to seed... and a whole lot more! 512-385-3452 501 Bastrop Hwy. callahansgeneralstore.com
Der Küchen Laden Der Küchen Laden is for the little chef in all of us. We have gourmet kitchenware, tools, gadgets, coffees and teas (just to name a few). Come check us out! 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com
Faraday’s Kitchen Store Austin’s source for cookware, bakeware, kitchen tools, knives, cooking classes, holiday gifts and so much more. 512-266-5666 12918 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 540, Bee Cave faradayskitchenstore.com
The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com
Serve Gourmet Garden Fresh Essentials Independent consultant for NYR Organic. Neal’s Yard Remedies certified organic skincare and beauty, loved in the UK for 30 years. Meet your new favorite products! Independent Consultants needed in U.S. 512-369-9899 us.nyrorganic.com/shop/gardenfresh
Fun and functional finds will make the casual cook look and feel like a celebrated chef. Gadgets to simplify or tablescapes to mystify can all be found in one spot. Let us show you around, or shop our store online! 512-480-0171 241 W. 3rd St. servegourmet.com
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Landscape and Environmental Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net
Countryside Nursery & Landscape Specializing in Texas native plants with the largest selection of shade trees. Find everything for organic gardening plus gift shop and bonsai trees. 512-249-0100 13292 Pond Springs Rd. countrysideaustin.com
Garden-Ville Organic gardening products, including soils, herbicides and plants. Seven locations throughout Central Texas. 512-329-4900 3606 FM 1327, Creedmoor 512-754-0060 2212 Old RR 12, San Marcos 512-930-8282 250 W.L. Walden Dr, Georgetown garden-ville.com
It’s About Thyme Garden Center
lodging Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking school, private dinners, luxury cabin rentals. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com
Travaasa Experiential Resorts Experiential Resort. 512-364-0061 13500 FM 2769 travaasa.com
nonprofits
The Purple Fig Cleaning Co. We are a local company providing green cleaning services, producing green cleaning products and offering green living workshops to adults and children. 512-351-1405 cleanfig.com
Time Warner Cable Business Class
Photography and Art
REAL ESTATE
Andy Sams Photography
Atria at the Arboretum
We love creating artistic, vibrant images that capture our subjects’ personalities. We pride ourselves on providing topnotch service from start to finish. 512-694-6311 andysams.com
The Contemporary Austin
Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center
Marta Stafford Fine Art
We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com
We’ve got homemade, thin crust pizzas with local veggies and meats. Gluten-free options, too! Three locations—Eastside, Airport and now Crestview. 512-524-0933 1401 Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 Airport Blvd., Ste. G 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com
Time Warner Cable Business Class offers a full suite of business communication tools to small and medium businesses and enterprise-sized companies. 877-824-8314 twcbc.com/tx
The Contemporary Austin reflects the spectrum of contemporary art through exhibitions, commissions, education, and the collections. With two locations and the Art School, The Contemporary aspires to be an essential part of city life. 512-453-5312; 700 Congress Ave. 512-458-8191; 3809 W. 35th St. thecontemporaryaustin.org
Natural Gardener
East Side Pies
A boutique law firm specializing in the representation of restaurants, bars, food and beverage purveyors and other hospitality ventures throughout Texas. 512-565-1849 300 S. Lamar, Ste. 308 pecorelaw.com
Oxfam America is an international relief and development organization that creates lasting solutions to poverty, hunger, and injustice. 800-776-9326; oxfamamerica.org
Oxfam America
Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocketfriendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com
The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org
Pecore Law
A pairing of art and antiques. The collection includes sculpture, representational works and contemporary expressionism in a charming vintage 1930s home. 830-693-9999; 200 Main St., Marble Falls martastaffordfineart.com
TASTE Wine + Art Offering a stunning art collection by 40+ established Texan artists with a wide range of styles. Worldwide and Texas wines sold by the taste, glass, bottle or case. 830-868-9290 213 N. Nugent Ave., Johnson City tastewineart.com
Professional Services
YardFarm
Austin Label Company
Cultivate your urban homestead! YardFarm designs & constructs edible, native & waterwise landscapes that reflect their owners’ organic lifestyle. 512-961-7117 7204 Shelton Rd. yardfarmaustin.com
Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of GoTexan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1834 Ferguson Ln., Ste. 201 austinlabel.com
Atria at the Arboretum offers exceptional senior living with luxury services and amenities for Austin’s most fascinating older adults. 512-346-4900; 9306 Great Hills Trail atria-arboretum.com
ISO Commercial ISO Commercial is a brokerage firm specializing in restaurant, bar and retail spaces in Austin and the surrounding markets. 512-799-3448 311 W. 5th St., Ste. 100 isocommercial.com
Restaurants Barlata Tapas Bar Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512 473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com
Buenos Aires Cafe Austin-grown Argentine restaurant. We use only the freshest ingredients available and make an effort to support local farmers. Food made with love daily. 512-382-1189; 1201 E. 6th St. 512-441-9000; 13500 Galleria Cir., Bee Cave buenosairescafe.com
El Naranjo Traditional Mexican cuisine. We cook everything from scratch, using local and organic ingredients as much as possible. 512-474-2776; 85 Rainey St. elnaranjo-restaurant.com
Eden East Signature restaurant of award-winning chef Sonya Coté, Eden East sprouted from the collaborative efforts of some of Austin’s local food heroes. 512-428-6500 755 Springdale Rd. edeneastaustin.com
FABI+ROSI FABI+ROSI serves classic European dishes with a young and modern twist. Sourcing locally grown and sustainably raised provisions is our top priority. 512-236-0642 509 Hearn St. fabiandrosi.com
Green Pastures Located in old South Austin a mile and a half south of the river on 5 acres. Offering lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Catering and events on and offsite. 512-444-4747; 811 W. Live Oak St. greenpasturesrestaurant.com
Hillside Farmacy A restaurant and specialty grocery store located in the old Hillside Drugstore building, beautifully restored using original pharmacy cabinetry. 512-628-0168 1209 E. 11th St. hillsidefarmacy.com
Jack Allen’s Kitchen Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily. 512-852-8558 7720 Hwy. 71 W. 512-215-0372 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock jackallenskitchen.com
Kerbey Lane Cafe Kerbey Lane Cafe has proudly served comfortable food at a reasonable price since 1980. Come into any of our 5 Austin locations for a taste! 512-451-1436; 3704 Kerbey Ln. 512-445-4451; 3003 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-258-7757; 13435 Hwy. 183, Ste. 415 512-477-5717; 2606 Guadalupe St. 512-899-1500; 4301 W. William Cannon kerbeylanecafe.com
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presents
Coming to PBS Television in Winter 2013 Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com
www.ediblecommunities.com
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The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery
The Peach Tree
Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com
A Fredericksburg family tradition for over 40 years. Serving delicious homemade foods daily. Boutique offers distinctive gifts and apparel for the home. 830-997-9527 210 S. Adams, Fredericksburg peach-tree.com
Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com
The Turtle Restaurant
Navajo Grill
Uptown Blanco Restaurant
A unique dining establishment nestled deep in the heart of where historic Fredericksburg lies. 830-990-8289 803 E. Main St., Fredericksburg navajogrill.com
Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com
Open for lunch daily. Dinner Thurs.–Sun. Unique culinary specials using local hill country ingredients. Ballroom & Courtyard available for private groups. 830-833-0738 317 Main St., Blanco uptownblanco.com
Otto’s German Bistro Otto’s offers German-inspired fare in Fredericksburg, Texas. Featuring locally sourced produce & meats. Local beers & wines on tap, handcrafted cocktails. 830-307-3336 316 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg www.ottosfbg.com
Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com
Specialty Market
Tourism
For Goodness Sake Natural Foods
Fredericksburg Conference and Visitors Bureau
Family owned and operated health food store featuring high quality supplements, all-natural and organic bodycare plus unique grocery items. 830-606-1900 1306 E. Common St., Ste. 101, New Braunfels fgsnb.com
Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com
Mission Restaurant Supply We are the premier foodservice equipment & supply dealer in Central & South Texas. We’re open to the public! Sales, leasing and service. 512-389-1705 6509 N. Lamar Blvd. 210-354-0690 1126 S. St. Mary’s St., San Antonio 361-289-5255 1737 N. Padre Island Dr., Corpus Christi 956-467-1295 3422 N. 10th St., McAllen missionrs.com
Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines. 866-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com
Marble Falls/Lake LBJ Chamber of Commerce & CVB Visit Marble Falls, adventure by day, romance by night and an array of activities in between—wineries, lakes and caves, golf, shopping and more! 830-693-2815 100 Avenue G., Marble Falls marblefalls.org
San Saba Economic Development Corporation Be a part of San Saba’s community and economic rebirth. Award winning winery, olive oil company, gourmet dining, antique mercantile, historic shops and PECANS! 325-372-8291 303 S. Clear, San Saba sansabatexas.com
‘TIS THE SEASON TO BE JOLL JOLLYY. P L E A S E D O N A T E T O D A Y.
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
HEIRLOOM 2013
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Marianne Vitale. Burned Bridge Junction (Congress) 2013. Wood, 91 x 339 x 339 inches (as installed). Installation view, The Contemporary Austin – Jones Center, Austin. Courtesy of the artist and Zach Feuer Gallery. Photograph by Dave Mead.
art de terroir
Liam Gillick September 21, 2013 – January 5, 2014 Marianne Vitale September 21, 2013 – January 5, 2014 Video screening: Marianne Vitale in Context Thursday, December 5, 7P, Jones Center
Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 512 453 5312
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HEIRLOOM 2013
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 458 8191
Art School 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 323 6380
Let us do the cooking. You take the credit.
Order your holiday meal in -store or online! shop.wholefoodsmarket.com south
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west
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WiLLiam Cannon and mopaC
downtown 6th and Lamar
hiLL Country GaLLeria
hiGhWay 183 and 360
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mopaC and braker Lane – Opening January 15, 2014!