Beer

By Bert Mattson

The theory goes that the word “patio” finds its roots in the Latin “pactum,” meaning bargain or pact. I like the idea … in the spirit of: “If you build it, they will come.” What a boon that craft beer has bucked almost a century of distribution trends and dotted townscapes with neighborhood taprooms.

It’s the rare reversal, whereby the tradition of beer gardens attached to family breweries resurges in the form of patios with creative amenities. Some harken back to the age of lunch wagons by featuring a food truck or display menus from local delivery joints. Some have kitchens of their own. Games and fire pits are not unheard of, and often a little thought has been put into accommodating kids and pets. More and more there’s even a chance one is close enough to bike or walk to. What a deal!

Bigger craft breweries are positioned to pour resources into branding. While aluminum can shortages — Schell’s is reportedly sourcing cans in Dubai — and other factors have spurred breweries to concentrate retail efforts on popular labels, taprooms strive to balance menus for clientele with tastes for both innovation and authenticity.

IPA continues to appear to be the analogue to burgers in the restaurant business — demand abides. While the trend toward low ABV styles definitely holds steady this year, higher alcohol offerings are shaking it off. Innovative iterations like LocAle Brewing Company’s Norselander 5.0 Hazy Double IPA (8%) have been bringing the warmth and balance befitting a local haunt. Be it a strong rotation of hazies and sours, or an honest English brown or helles you seek, remember to think local as beautiful evenings sneak up on you. Find that you favor your own patio? Maybe eschew feeding aluminum shortages and scroll LocAle’s social media for growler fill specials (and food truck features).

Fruited sour beers are still trending with a dedicated following — plus popular among the wine and margarita crowd. Like hard seltzers, they offer taprooms a crossover beverage when beer nuts come with company in tow. The seltzer craze is credited with the aluminum can supply problem.

Of course sours can be an attraction on their own. Having the savvy to stock up on cans, Mankato Brewing recently announced the inclusion of the lightly sour Omega Wolf Pomegranate Berliner Weisse in its sampler pack. Berliner Weisse is a typically low-ABV style with a tradition of being served with flavored syrup, well-suited for a refreshing patio session. Their other offerings can be sampled on their patio, where leashed dogs are welcome as well as supervised little ones. Food and live music features are posted to their social media.

If you favor a flight at a pub or cruising a broader beer list at another taphouse, you’ll be supporting both when you buy a local label at your favored establishment. If you’re not sold already, another advantage of keeping the patios pact, is appropriate portioning in the optimal glassware. The breezy patio beer is definitely a trend worth supporting.

Bert Mattson is a chef and writer based in St. Paul. He is the manager of the iconic Mickey’s Diner. bertsbackburner.com