Introducing the Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour (LITAC)

The new University of Leeds institute will tackle global challenges – such as those created by fast fashion, and the need for advanced materials, manufacturing processes and sustainable products – by partnering with industry to apply the world-class research expertise found across a wide range of disciplines at the University.

Stephen Russell, Professor of Textile Materials and Technology in Leeds School of Design and the founding Director of LITAC, said: ‘Textiles and colour are fundamental to the function and appearance of countless products used by society, and the industry as a whole is looking to innovate at every stage of the supply chain, to increase competitiveness, address environmental impacts, and drive sustainable growth.

‘Whether it is significantly reducing waste, or a lack of transparency in the global fashion industry, creating new materials to rapidly diagnose infection in healthcare, or deploying artificial intelligence to decide the colour of products and increase their value, we can help with these sorts of diverse challenges. Our expertise across the University – in design, science and engineering – make us ideally placed to build on existing relationships.’

Leeds has an internationally recognised history in teaching and research into textiles and colour, going back almost 150 years. The Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour brings together existing areas of excellence, including the Future Fashion Factory (FFF), the 3D Weaving Innovation Centre (3DWIC), the Design Centre for Colour, and the Clothworkers’ Centre for Textile Materials Innovation for Healthcare (CCTMIH.) Since 2018, Future Fashion Factory (FFF) has helped businesses to develop sustainable processes and digital tools to guide design and manufacturing processes from start to finish, analysing demand, increasing agility and reducing waste. Meanwhile, Clothworkers’ Centre for Textile Materials Innovation for Healthcare, which was founded in 2012 with an anchor donation from The Clothworkers’ Company, works to develop enabling technologies based on advances in textile science and engineering – from bioactive wound dressings that speed up healing rates to implantable devices that promote cell regeneration. Brought together, these flagship centres of excellence will help one another achieve even greater leaps in research, development and innovation.

Alongside the contributions of the University, LITAC has received a significant investment of £8.9m from The Clothworkers’ Company – although we’re a City of London livery company, we focus on supporting the UK textiles industry through education, research, skills development and training.

Jocelyn Stuart-Grumbar, Clerk to The Company, said: ‘We believe that the Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour will be a strong, collaborative force that will shape the future of the textiles industry. Our co-investment with the University of Leeds represents the largest single funding commitment that The Clothworkers’ Company has ever made.

‘It further affirms our belief in the capability of the University of Leeds to build effective partnerships with the textiles industry across the UK and internationally, and to foster intelligent, innovative and environmentally sustainable solutions to society’s needs.’

Professor Russell added: ‘We are collaborative and international in our outlook. Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour is built on a heritage of nearly 150 years of teaching and research in colour and textiles on the same site in Leeds, and we are proud to have been supported by The Clothworkers’ Company since our foundation in 1874.’

The new institute has been welcomed by industry leaders.

Adam Mansell, CEO of the UK Fashion & Textiles Association, said: ‘The current renaissance in UK manufacturing means that factors such as sustainability are more important than ever.

‘LITAC has the expertise to inform the future of UK textile manufacturing and acts as a hub for collaboration, bringing together critical partners from all over the world to make a difference.’

And Paul Johnson, Managing Director of Huddersfield’s WT Johnson & Sons, one of the world’s leading textile dyeing and finishing companies, added: ‘Innovation and the adoption of new technologies are critically important for manufacturing in the UK.

‘There is increasing evidence of small- and medium-sized enterprises involved in textiles’ manufacturing collaborating with each other and with universities. LITAC will accelerate this collaboration and will be a terrific asset for UK textiles.’

Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour will harness the collective strength of universities in the Yorkshire and Humber region, which collectively enrol some 2,000 students in fashion, design, textiles and colour disciplines each year.

It will address gaps in skills and professional development, including those in technical manufacturing, digital technology and the circular economy.

Gilda Smith-Leigh, Senior Economic Development Officer at Leeds City Council, welcomed the institute’s inception, drawing on Leeds as a centre of excellence: ‘The city of Leeds has a rich clothmaking heritage, and the University leads the sector in textiles research and innovation. institute brings to work with business and industry all over the world to tackle pressing environmental concerns.’

Professor Russell added: ‘Alongside The Clothworkers’ Company, which regulated a part of the textile trade in medieval London, the Leeds City Region has been a world leader in high-quality textile manufacturing for centuries. LITAC will build on that legacy.

‘With core expertise in polymer science, textile technology, textile and fashion design, colour chemistry and technology, we are ideally placed to contribute to future developments.’

Judith Rosser-Davies, Head of Government Relations and Education at the British Fashion Council, said: ‘Through our Institute of Positive Fashion, we encourage the industry to actively participate in a network to accelerate a successful circular fashion economy.

To address global challenges in our industry – including sustainability – we need to fully understand the issues and the latest research, working together with higher education experts such as LITAC to seek realworld solutions.’

Professor Andrew Chitty, Challenge Director, Creative Industries Clusters Programme, UKRI, said: ‘The launch of the Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour is testament to the work that has been achieved by Future Fashion Factory as part of the UKRIfunded Creative Industries Clusters Programme.

‘Under Steve Russell’s leadership, FFF have demonstrated the value of industry and university collaboration in applied creative research and the opportunities for the future.

‘Committing to a long-term partnership in the form of a new institute shows that R&D in the creative industries can now be regarded by research-intensive universities as opportunities for collaboration between research and industry partners as valuable as those in STEM areas.

‘That’s an enormous step forward for the sector, and a huge tribute to the pioneering efforts of the Future Fashion Factory team.’