29 The power of the ’d0g

Richard Benc Studio Underd0g

Studio Underd0g takes a revolutionary approach to watch design that puts colour centre stage

There’s no doubt about it: UK watchmaking is undergoing a renaissance

– with microbrands, established companies, engineers and educational establishments all pulling in the same (positive) direction.

One brand that’s turning heads is Studio Underd0g. Founded by designer Richard Benc in 2020, its mechanical watches combine beautiful minimalist design with the sort of primary colours more associated with anoraks than timepieces.

Like Christopher Ward, Studio Under0g is a member of the Alliance of British Watch & Clockmakers, and though it’s released just five watches, it’s already garnered a cult following among watch fans.

Here, we talk to Richard about why he started the business, his inspirations, and the small part Peppa Pig and Darth Vader have played in the Studio Under0g story.

Hi Richard. How did you get into designing watches?

After studying product design and manufacture, I took a design job at a watch company.

I had little knowledge of the industry, but it didn’t take me long to fall in love with horology. I spent my first year designing character watches, anything from Peppa Pig to Darth Vader, then moved on to developing watches for Braun.

Why did you start Studio Underd0g?

It was an accident! When the UK was put into lockdown in 2020, I found myself with ample free time (since the pubs were shut) so started to tinker around with designs and posted a few concept renders online. The response I got was overwhelmingly positive, which motivated me to continue to develop my ideas. In essence, Studio Underd0g was a passion project I never intended to bring to market.

Was it difficult buying cases and movements?

I had a bit of a head-start when it came to working with suppliers as I’d visited a number of factories in both Switzerland and China during my six years in the industry. By the time I began Studio Underd0g I’d already built a network of people that I trusted.

How many watches have you released so far?

So far, five. The Watermel0n, Desert Sky, Go0fy Panda, Mint Ch0c Chip and recently a limited edition Aubergine watch in collaboration with Fratello – a watch website. The first three were all released in March 2021 with the Watermel0n catching the eye of many curious enthusiasts.

Why is colour so important to you?

It was a way for me to rebel against the stuffy ‘rules’ of watch design: and to pose the question, “Why so serious?” I wanted to ensure that my watches were an honest tribute to vintage timepieces of the past, but with a modern, playful twist.

What are your design inspirations?

I’m influenced by the likes of Dieter Rams [legendary Braun designer] whose less-is-more approach inspires me. This may seem like an odd choice considering my watches are known for their vibrant colour and playful details: however, I’m always careful to ensure that form does not interfere with function.

And you obviously love details, too…

I’m obsessive about them. I spent a lot of time working to ensure the dial felt balanced. I was able to achieve this despite the varied sizes of the sub-dials by offsetting the branding and movement details. This allowed the chronograph seconds hand to pass through uninterrupted at 12 o’clock. Idiosyncratic, yet balanced.

What’s your favourite non-SU watch?

I’m a huge fan of the Gerald Genta Retrograde Mickey Mouse watches [below]. I love the juxtaposition of the serious watchmaking required to make the Retrograde that has Mickey Mouse grinning at you on the dial. It’s ‘party in the front, business in the back’ – which is the type of humour that I appreciate.

Where next for SU?

I’d like to play my part in the resurgence of British horology. The next year or so will be vital as whatever comes next will shape the brand’s DNA. Colour and playfulness will always be an integral part of Studio Under0g, but for future projects I also want to experiment with materials and take advantage of advancements in manufacturing techniques.

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