Process Analysis Document

回憶

鄧子晴

Memoirs Memoirs

回憶

Memoirs of the past and present.

過去和現在的回憶錄

About the Collection 回憶

The name of the collection - Memoirs represents sophistication, elegance and wealth. Survive through memoirs of the past present and future.

Contents 內容頁

Introduction Design concept Chinese Culture Research

Sound Culture Research Spring Summer 16

Yohji Yamamoto/Guo Pei Inspiration

Toile Process

Final Fabrics Final Collection Final Garments Luxury Cape Calligraphic Jumpsuit Issues and Solutions Biography and Referenceses

Introduction

This Global Mashup project explores the relationship between the culture of China and the culture of sound within the context of Scottish Heritage. It will portray analysis on all aspects of the design process including problems encountered and solutions. Primarily it will narrate the combination of the cultures to inspire visions of a conceptual collection.

Design Concept

Memoirs

The collection name refers to power and memories, The word itself draws attention just like the black and red fused together. The name represents sophistication and power to bring back all memories - the memories of the past and present Red and black uniform being a flashback and relating to sound.

The word relates to and also dates back a very long time where symbolism of Geishas was primarily Red and Black - This epitomised money, elegance, skill and wealth.

The red and black match well with the symbolism of the Geisha - where a Geisha possessed jet black hair, a pale white face and the bold red lips. The iconic red colour is related to luck. Black is not often used in the Chinese culture as it is a symbol and has connotations of death and bad luck.

Design Concept

Memoirs

Through the Spring/ Summer 16 trend research the striking colour trend was the ECO ACTIVES palette - from this is the contrasting bold RED and BLACK both these colours provided a ground colour palette for this Global Mashup collection - the red and black contrast very strikingly.

Fabrics used for this project are high quality and luxurious - Liquid Satin, these fabrics are chosen as they have a high quality finish and luxury feel along with the sheen appearance to them which fits in with designing for the high end market.

Design Concept

Memoirs

Amongst all of the research within the culture of China/ Hong Kong the language was the most important aspect, the language has over 2000 characters, many still unknown, for being conceptual this idea was an exciting and interesting influence to work with as looking at the characters and strokes from Chinese calligraphy provided foundation shapes of forming silhouettes and structure of the designs.

Many strokes have been used in the designs applied in an Advante Garde way moving away from the typical human body shape and creating a new one. Designs are matched up with one sided asymmetry so the influence stands out amongst the traditional body figure.

Deisgn Concept

Memoirs

Fabric manipulation techniques and textures were explored and experimented with through the idea focusing on how a blind person perceived sound. Different sounds create different sound waves and are able to transmit a variety of different emotions.

This was analysed through the use of sketchbook work using fabrics and string. The colours Black and red come from the uniform of the National Girls Choir of Scotland - These two colours are strong antagonistic colours when combined and have a powerful effect on the viewer.

書法

過 去 和 現 在 的 回 憶 錄

中 國 書 法 繪 畫

Sound Culture Research

- The opposing culture chosen honed in on the significance of The sound culture.

Being part of the National Youth Choir of Scotland brought important inspiration in the colour palette of black and red. This colour originally came from the NYCoS performance uniform.

Despite these colours, sound also gave influence to two of the 6th senses - touching and hearing. The sketchbook explored what sound meant to blind people and how touching and hearing aided them through life.

Sound Culture Research

Sound Culture Research

- This experiment revealed that the touching and hearing sense was the most important sense to a person without sight.

Experiments in the sketchbook represented and portrayed sound ~ waves inside water in a visual interactive manner. Colours relating to sound - black and red Fabrics were used for this experiment and string was placed underneath the fabric in sound wave motions producing circular raised bumps so the sound waves could be felt.

Spring Summer Colour Trend

Spring Summer 16

Eco Actives

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Yohji Yamamoto is known for his fabric manipulation techniques and the iconic colour symbol of Black/ Red and White. Putting these two colours together gives a strong contrast and highlights the garment further.

Yohji Yamamoto

GUO PEI

Guo Pei is very well known for her extravagance of structural 3D silhouettes, whilst incorporating the hand embellishments and embroidary into it, she creates something Avante Garde. Inspiration for has been taken from this to form the silhouettes of designs.

Toile Process

Final Fabrics Final Fabrics Final Fabrics

Liquid Satin is a heavy weight fabric with a sheen appearance to it.

The fabric is of high luxury quality, therefore fitting with the aestethic and high end luxury market level for this Global mashup.

Fabric: Liquid satin Appearance: Shiny and smooth surface Weight: heavyweight Properties: Cost: expensive

Final Collection

Final Collection

Luxury Cape

Final Garment

Lined Luxury Cape with no top stitching.

This inspiration from this cape comes from the chinese character strokes of:

çş&#x; çš” Using these character strokes as influence for the silhouette structures, it is apparent that chinese character strokes are very clean cut - contributing towards minimalism.

Red and black is used on either side to make the contrast stan out, the half and half colour effect portrays a huge bold impact on the garment.

Issues and Solutions Faced

Main Issues and Solutions Faced

It was very difficult to get the garment structured and a lot of fusing had to be used on it in order for the garment to stay upright and stiff.

10 fusible sheets were put on each side of the curved 3D structural part

The cones that were designed to stick out of the garment took a lot more time up than it should and it was not possible to put cone shape structures into the garment, so the design had to be simplified.

Problems occured with the front part, where the design at the front was not attached to anything near the neck, the solution to this problem was to fuse this part several times so that it would be held in place.

Issues and Solutions Faced

Main Issues and Solutions Faced

Because the fabric had been fused so many times, and innacurate fusible pieces, this meant innacurate sewing of the curved part of the jumpsuit, which in turn resulted in creating fabric bumps around the turned over part of the jumpsuit.

Trying to push The wire through the garment was difficult as the fusing stopped the wire from going right thorugh to the end, this wire was used to make the curved parts stick out.

When sewing the garment the fabric was very bulky to work with which meant care had to be taken when sewing the fabric, as the fabric - liquid satin is slippery care had to be taken and every bit had to be pinned to make sure the seams matched up accurately.

Calligraphic Jumpsuit

This garment originally started as a dress at first, thenan idea came to mind to turn it into a jumpsuit - this made the garment more interesting both visually and to work with.

The influence for this garment came from altering shapes of the Chinese character strokes and distorting them into 3D structures. The jumpsuit is influenced by the character

金 木 水 火 土 These characters represent the five elements of the Chinese philosophy: “Wu Xing” the words spell

Metal Wood Water Fire Soil

Bibliography & References

http://pre01.deviantart.net/1a7b/th/pre/i/2010/204/5/0/chinese_calligraphy__age___by_sihui128.jpg CDNA LYSTIT https://cdna.lystit.com/photos/2012/07/23/raquel-allegra-red-liquid-satinblouse-with-long-sleeves-product-7-4267152-876882042.jpeg TRURO FABRICS http://www.trurofabrics.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/172x219/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/1/0/1014351b.jpg ABAKHAN http://www.abakhan.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/376x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/2/0/200053.jpg CHINESE WORD http://www.chinese-word.com/data2/elements.html IMGARCADE, available online: http://imgarcade.com/1/chinese-calligraphy-painting-flowers/, accessed [10th December 2015] PINTEREST, available online: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/311944711665363714/, accessed [10th December 2015] PINTEREST https://www.pinterest.com/pin/551620654331781794/ PINTEREST, available online: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chcl/hd_chcl.htm, accessed [2nd December 2015] PINTEREST https://www.pinterest.com/pin/278238083200141487/ WGSN http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy1.hw.ac.uk/home/

鄧子晴