Tokyo In The Now

by Michael Kanert

Tokyo is constantly reinventing itself: visit the same neighbourhood 10 years down the road, and you may barely recognize it. This is a city so constantly on the move, it can be hard to keep up!

The city’s hottest new attraction will make you feel like a kid again. Opened in June 2018, the Mori Building Digital Art Museum: Epson teamLab Borderless in Odaiba is a 10,000-square-metre playground of interactive light. Its 520 computers and 470 projectors create a delightful world that you can not only touch, but even climb and bounce through, with floating lamps that change colour as you approach, wall art that turns and waves at the touch, an aquarium filled with wacky fish drawn by visitors, and light shows that can be manipulated with a free smartphone app. Finish up with one of four green tea drinks at the dimly lit En Tea House, where the light show continues to play out across the liquid in your cup.

If you’ve ever wanted to live in the worlds of anime and video game heroes, head to VR Zone Shinjuku just north of Shinjuku Station. The 15 showcased VR games let you fire Dragon Ball energy blasts, pilot a giant Gundam or Evangelion unit, or reach up to grab items as your race through Mario Kart Arcade GP VR. But you’ll have to hurry: VR Zone Shinjuku will close on March 31, 2019!

Opened in March 2018, Tokyo Midtown Hibiya is directly connected to Hibiya, Yurakucho and Ginza stations. The glamorous complex is home to some 30 fashion, beauty and interior design stores, as well as over a dozen cafés and restaurants. And if you’ve got time for a movie, Toho Cinemas can be found on the fourth and fifth floors as well.

If you’d like to take a bite out of some history, try Edo Noren, a collection of a dozen eateries established in the old station building just west of Ryogoku Station. Established in late 2016, the shops are arrayed along a mock streetfront done up in the style of the Edo period (1603-1868), an era that took its title from Tokyo’s former name. Since Ryogoku is also home to the Ryogoku Kokugikan, host to three of Japan’s six annual Grand Sumo tournaments, it’s only natural that a sumo ring—or dohyo—rests in the midst of the old-fashioned storefronts, adding ambience as visitors sample sushi, soba, tempura, green tea and, of course, chanko nabe hot pot, the sumo wrestler’s staple meal. For a unique sake experience, head to the back of Tokyo Shoten, where three vending machines offer sake from local Tokyo brewers. At just ¥300 per cup, it’s a great way to create your own sampler set (just be aware that the more expensive bottles pour out a little less).

If you’re looking for accommodations in Japan, Hoshino Resorts is the big name in luxury resort hotels. While typically ensconced amid beaches and mountains outside of major cities, one property, Hoshinoya Tokyo, can be found just northwest of Tokyo Station. Opened in July 2016, this 17-storey “luxury ryokan”—a traditional Japanese-style inn— offers a surprisingly intimate experience in the heart of the big city.

For more cost-conscious travellers, Hoshino unveiled a more budget-friendly brand called OMO Hotels in spring 2018. Promising a personal touch in time with the local rhythm, Hoshino Resorts OMO5 Tokyo Otsuka is located in a retro pocket of north-central Tokyo, right beside the Yamanote loop and adjacent to the last remaining streetcar line in Tokyo.

Travellers looking for a longer sojourn might consider Mimaru Tokyo Ueno Inaricho, found a few blocks east of Ueno Station. Just opened in September 2018, this “extended-stay” hotel offers a true livein-Japan experience, complete with in-room minikitchen and direct-to-room takeout for ordering online. Multilingual support is also available.

With so much ongoing renewal and change, any time is a good time to rediscover Tokyo!