FOUNDATION FOCUS

by Ryan Donahue, associate director of communications, California Cattlemen’s Foundation

On May 16, the California Cattle Council bused a group of chefs, butchers and other hospitality professionals to Circle Ranch in Ione for the opportunity to learn about a product critical to their respective industries: beef. Circle Ranch was ideal because of its proximity to Sacramento, relative beauty and its wonderful and most hospitable owners in Tim and Jill Curran.

It should be noted that hospitality professionals are a wily bunch, nocturnal and Mondays are often their day off. Despite these factors we were able to cajole them to join us for a trip to the ranch in Ione 40 miles southeast of Sacramento. We often say the best way for people to better understand ranches and dairies is for them to actually visit one. Given the relative remoteness of most of these operations, such visits are not always feasible. However, we have created a program where we bring hospitality professionals for ranch and dairy visits a few times a year with the intention of creating a better connection between producers and those that serve as the ambassadors of ranch and dairy products to the consumers. We find if we can bridge the physical distance between producers and the typically more urban hospitality professionals that wonderful things tend to happen.

We met on a Monday morning in a parking lot in midtown Sacramento with mimosas and donuts, loaded onto the bus and made our way to Ione. An ancillary benefit of these outings is that the restaurant workers, butchers and other industry professionals who have demanding schedules have some time to intermingle with one another without being stuck in a kitchen or behind a counter. The mood on the bus was lively to say the least. When we arrived at Circle Ranch, we were greeted by the Currans where Tim welcomed the group and gave an overview of ranch operations. Our lunch was already on the smoker.

We were given a walking tour of the ranch and were lucky to hear from Tim and Jill about many aspects of their operations. Circle Ranch is primarily a cow-calf operation though that sells seedstock, primarily SimAngus bulls. The Curran’s moved some of their more experienced cows to the pasture nearest the meeting space. The group took a walk into the pasture in an attempt to view the animals more closely, but the heifers maintained a healthy distance. Perhaps they’re a wily bunch as well...

We sat down to a prime rib lunch and heard from Haydn Clement a technician from the Chico State Meat Lab. Haydn hosted a variety of questions about beef production, specifically addressing the processes and timelines after animals are harvested. The conversation also covered the topic of anatomy and where some of the lesser-known cuts are located and their functionality on the animal. The presentation ended with Haydn removing an aged rib primal from a cooler using it as a visual aid to explain the benefits and processes involved in aging beef.

Chef and business owner Aimal Formoli was a guest on the visit and commented, “It’s easy to forget that as operators how far downstream we are in meat production... that there are complex things going on throughout the whole system and the better educated we can be on that system can benefit us in our business.”

The half day we spent at Curran Ranch was mutually beneficial for the ranch and the hospitality professionals alike. Often in events such as these, one side could feel a bit put out for the effort or the time it takes. In this instance we were thanked by both the hosts and the guests. A large part of it no doubt is due to the Curran’s amazing hospitality. Another reason is that even though ranches and restaurants/ butchers bookend a complex industry, their aims are largely the same; to provide a responsibly raised and sourced product in the most delicious way possible.

When asked about the Curran’s hospitality, beverage industry professional said, “It’s those little finer touches that really make for a great experience. Going out to visit Tim and Jill was incredible. With them greeting us when we got off the bus, having flowers on the table... Even Tim who seems like a generally quiet person, opened up and was incredibly humble to let us in his space.”

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In June, the Kansas Livestock Association (KLA), an affiliate of the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association (NCBA), hosted a Waters of the U.S. (WOTUS) roundtable with representatives from the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and Army Corps of Engineers.

This roundtable was one of 10 accepted by the EPA and Army Corps. In July 2021, the EPA announced that rather than facilitate public engagement — the typical course of action for major rulemakings — the agency would instead ask private organizations to entirely plan and propose a roundtable with representatives from agriculture, conservation groups, developers, water and wastewater managers, industry, Tribal leadership, environmental justice groups and state and local governments.

“Cattle producers are grateful for the opportunity to share their perspective on WOTUS and explain how rules crafted in Washington will impact the daily operations of farms and ranches across the country,” said NCBA Environmental Counsel MaryThomas Hart. “To be successful in their operations, cattle producers need a clear, limited WOTUS definition that finally provides much-needed certainty after years of shifting rules.”

Producers in Kansas also voiced NO YES a similar perspective on the need for regulatory certainty.

“We supported the Navigable Waters Protection Rule, particularly because it gave some bright, bright lines for our producers to decide, do I need to talk to EPA, or do I need to talk to the state regulatory agency,” said KLA Vice President of Legal and Government Affairs Aaron Popelka.

Another key point that roundtable participants made was the need for voluntary incentives rather than regulation. (Consult your local

“Changes in practices, whether it’s veterinarian to find out) adoption of new management strategies, are much better incentivized by education rather than regulation,” said Shawn Tiffany, a Kansas producer and KLA presidentelect. Dan Meyerhoff, executive director of the Kansas Association of Conservation NO Districts agreed and said, “If we increase regulations and make things more stringent, it’s going to hinder the voluntary conservation efforts that I think are very successful in here.”

While this roundtable was not directly tied to the EPA’s ongoing WOTUS rulemaking, a common theme among participants was the need to pause rulemaking while the Supreme Court considers the case of Sackett v. EPA, a direct challenge to the EPA’s authority under the Clean Water Act.

“If we write a rule now, finalize it and then get the Sackett ruling from the Supreme Court, we are just going to drag out this uncertainty. I think we are better off waiting until the Sackett decision is made and then move forward with a final rule,” said Gary Mason, the former deputy secretary for environment of the Kansas Department of Health and Environment. This roundtable is just one of many ways NCBA has engaged on WOTUS. In addition to filing a brief before the Supreme Court in the Sackett case, NCBA launched a grassroots campaign that provided more than 1,700 cattle producers with the opportunity to submit a letter to the EPA. As we wait for the EPA to continue the WOTUS rulemaking process, NCBA will be a steadfast advocate for cattle producers.

by Ryan Donahue for the California Cattleman

I‘ve spent a lot of time thinking about cheeseburgers. In my time in restaurants my partners and I tinkered and tweaked every component in an effort to create burger nirvana. Over time we did win some awards but like anything else, such perfection is a moving target and can never truly be attained.

This burger represents the closest I’ve gotten in the last few years. It’s simple (in form) yet decadent. It’s also a pain to make. That said, it’s worth the effort.

This burger is a homage to “Steak Au Poivre” which is a black pepper-encrusted steak (usually filet mignon) served with a sauce consisting of reduced cognac, cream, butter, beef stock, green peppercorns, shallots and thyme leaves.

Note: The “Fancy Cheese Sauce” can be made ahead of time and stores nicely for more than a week in a sealed container in a refrigerator. This cheese sauce can be used in a myriad of ways. Mix it with some sturdy noodles and it makes for a spectacular mac ‘n’ cheese or even use it as a fondue cheese. Ingredients(RECiPE FEEDS 4) • 80/20 GROUND BEEF - 1.5 POUNDS OR 1/3 POUND

PER PERSON • SOFT BURGER BUNS • KOSHER SALT • COARSE FRESH GROUND BLACK PEPPER (LOTS)

• FRESH THYME - 1 BUNCH (2TB PiCKED) • SHALLOT - 1/2 CUP FiNELY DiCED • BUTTER - 1/2 POUND (2 STiCKS) • BRANDY OR COGNAC 1/8 CUP (A GOOD SPLASH) • HEAvY CREAM - 1 PiNT • BEEF STOCK - 2 CUPS • GREEN PEPPERCORNS - 3.5 OZ jAR (CHOPPED... KEEP THE

BRiNE) • SLiCED WHiTE AMERiCAN CHEESE (iT MAY CLAiM TO BE SWiSS) - 24 SLiCES (YOU’LL NEED 12)

• CAST-IRON PAN OR FLAT TOP GRiLL • MEDiUM OR LARGE SAUCE POT WiTH LiD • LARGE FLAT METAL SPATULA (FOR SMASHiNG) • SiLiCONE SPATULA (FOR STiRRiNG/SPREADiNG) • PLASTiC OR GLASS STORAGE CONTAiNER • STiCK LiGHTER Process

Make sure to have your ingredients prepared and ready to go. In restaurants such preparation is termed mise en place (roughly translated to putting in place) where all your components in a dish are prepped and measured. This cook is fast and there’s no time to be chopping while cooking.

Add one stick of butter to a pan at medium high heat. Once the pan is hot and the butter is bubbling add the shallots and green peppercorns. Cook until fragrant with the shallots being translucent (about three minutes). Add a knob (or chunk) of butter. Add 2 Tbsp. picked thyme leaves. Add Brandy/Cognac. (Note: The alcohol could ignite on its own). Use the stick lighter to ignite the contents of the pan. Once the alcohol is burned off add the beef stock and green peppercorn brine. Reduce to a consistency thicker than water. Reduce the heat to medium and gradually stir in the heavy cream. Once the cream is incorporated stir in the American cheese four slices at a time. From this point it’s all feel. There’s really no limit to the amount of cheese that can be added. What you want is to cook the sauce to a consistency just a bit looser than melted nacho cheese. Salt to taste.

If making burgers immediately hold the cheese in the pan (lidded) on your lowest burner setting or in the oven at 200°. If saving for later, store the sauce in a lidded container and refrigerate.

Portion your ground beef into the size of a tennis ball (about 6 ounces).

Heat your cast iron or flat top grill to a medium high heat (if you have an IR thermometer heat to 420°). While your cooking surface heats toast your buns. Once buns are toasted place beef ball(s) on the cooking surface and smash with an oiled-up spatula to a half inch thick. Depending on the size of your cooking surface you may able to do one, two or even four at a time. Crack coarse black pepper on the uncooked side of the burger patty. Be aggressive. Once the bottom of the patty develops a brown crust (about 2 minutes), flip and salt the cooked side. Once cooked, allow the patties a 5-minute rest. Serve on the toasted bun with a healthy dollop of the fancy cheese. Enjoy!