Enjoy Gardening Spring 2011

with Linda Bodo

SPRING 2011

REPURPOSE, RECLAIM AND REDEFINE LEISURE TIME

enjoy more inspired diy projec ts

E N J OY GA R DE N I NG

Upcycle THE ART OF

S P R I N G 2011

Floral

Sushi

Linda Bodo breathes life into the ordinary as she upcycles everyday objects into inspired designs for the home.

Turn heads with unforgettable floral designs

s %ASY TO FOLLOW PROJECTS s #ONCISE STEP BY STEPS SUPPORTED BY colour photography s -ATERIALS LISTS TIMELINES HELPFUL TIPS and more Whether you have one hour or one WEEKEND THIS BOOK HAS A PROJECT TO l T YOU )NSPIRED ARTISTIC AND EASY The Art of Upcycle turns DIY into DIwise. s X s 3OFTCOVER s #OLOUR s PAGES s )3".

Order online at www.holesonline.com

By Phone 1-888-884-6537

By Fax 780-459-6042

MIDNIGHT SNACKING Recipes that put the Mmm in midnight

Also by Linda Bodo

MICROGREENS Grow your own in 14 days S P R I N G I S S U E 2 011 $6.99

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Printed in Canada

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SHADY BUSINESS Tips for getting your way with the shade

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enjoy

Great Gardening Books from Hole’s

Lois Hole's Favorite Bulbs Better Choices, Better Gardens

By Lois Hole

Lois Hole’s Favorite Bulbs is both an ultimate get started guide for novice gardeners and a comprehensive reference for experienced bulb enthusiasts. Here you’ll find great advice on planting, growing and maintaining flowering bulbs.

You'll also find hundreds of tips on where and when to plant, advice on forcing and naturalizing and fascinating sidebars on bulb science and history. s X s 3OFTCOVER s #OLOUR s PAGES s )3".

Hole's Dictionary of Hardy Perennials The Buyer’s Guide for Professionals, Collectors & Gardeners Edited by Jim Hole

The perennial marketplace is larger than ever, with thousands of species and varieties from which to choose. Keeping track of perennials has become an awesome task—but the experts at Hole’s have a solution. Hole’s Dictionary of Hardy Perennials is the comprehensive guide, perfect for anyone who loves perennials, whether retailer, professional grower, breeder, collector, novice or veteran home gardener. s X s (ARDCOVER s COLOUR PHOTOS s PAGES s )3".

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Ordering /RDER THESE AND OTHER (OLE S PUBLICATIONS ONLINE AT WWW HOLESONLINE COM s "Y 0HONE "Y &AX (OLE S s "ELLEROSE $RIVE 3T !LBERT !LBERTA s 4 . .

Follow us on T W I T TER C OM E NJOYC E N T RE s FAC EB O OK C OM T HE E NJOYC E N T RE ENJOYC EN T RE C A

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Create an Impression

Landscaping for Curb Appeal

By Maggie Clayton

Presenting 23 professionally designed landscape plans that allow gardeners the luxury of implementing designs stage-by-stage according to time, budget and desire. s X s 3OFTCOVER s #OLOUR s PAGES s )3".

What Grows Here? Series What Grows Here?

Indoors

What Grows Here?

Volume 2: Problems

By Jim Hole

By Jim Hole

Favourite Houseplants for Every Situation Jim Hole takes the guesswork out of caring for houseplants by addressing issues concerning light, water, pests, diseases and more.

Complete with full-colour photography and in-depth plant listings, this book gives you the confidence to select the perfect houseplant for every situation.

Brimming with solid advice from one of Canada’s most accomplished gardening professionals, Problems tackles common gardening dilemmas: poor soil, pests, budget concerns and much more. Complete with detailed descriptions of plants you can count on to tackle the garden’s toughest challenges.

s X s 3OFTCOVER s #OLOUR s PAGES s )3".

s X s 3OFTCOVER s #OLOUR s PAGES s )3".

What Grows Here?

Volume 1: Locations

What Grows Here?

Volume 3: Solutions

By Jim Hole

By Jim Hole

Favorite Plants for Better Yards Jim Hole and his team of expert horticulturists present tried-and-true advice, examples to help you tailor your gardening approach and hundreds of today’s best plants, chosen to fill every conceivable location in the garden—including trouble spots. s X s 3OFTCOVER s #OLOUR s PAGES s )3".

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Favorite Plants for Better Yards

Favorite Plants for Better Yards Jim introduces the owners of 13 gardens in different stages of development, discusses the problems each faces and offers his expert advice on selecting the best plants for specific locations and conditions. Novice gardeners and seasoned experts alike will discover how to make a landscape their very own. s X s 3OFTCOVER s #OLOUR s PAGES s )3". 8

10-12-16 11:44 AM

reflect relax reconnect

ISSN 1916-095X

SP R I NG 2011

Published by Hole’s Magazine Publisher

Jim Hole

Editor-in-Chief

Carmen D. Hrynchuk

Graphic Design

Dragich Design

Principal Photography

Akemi Matsubuchi

Photographic Assistant

Brenda Lakeman

Image Managment

Jean Coulton

Contributors

Bryan Alary, Linda Bodo, Alexei Boldireff, Joanna Klimowicz, Michelle Lavoie

Staff Writers

Jean Coulton, Bruce Timothy Keith

Proofreader

NJ Brown

Floral Design

Lisa Alary, Liz Nobbs

Food Styling

Alexei Boldireff

Advertising & Promotion

Bill Hole

Printing

Quad/Graphics

Distribution

Disticor Magazine Distribution Services

Hole’s Publishing Staff Publisher

Bill Hole

Publishing Manager

Bruce Timothy Keith

Chief Horticulturist Editorial Advisory Group

Jim Hole Brenda Lakeman, Liz Nobbs, Karen Wilson, Lindsay Zimmer

Enjoy Gardening is published twice-yearly by Hole’s Publishing.

It is available on newsstands across Canada. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher.

For more information on the magazine or advertising, please contact us at: 101 Bellerose Drive St. Albert, Alberta, Canada, T8N 8N8

Telephone 780-419-6800 Facsimile 780-459-6042 Subscriptions 1-888-884-6537

E-mail

Website www.enjoygardening.com editor@enjoygardening.com advertising@enjoygardening.com

About the Cover Floral design by Lisa Alary Photography: Akemi Matsubuchi

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Letter from the Editor

What do you do for a living? It’s a common enough question but one I take a deep breath before answering.

When I’m ready, it goes a little like this.

“I’m an editor,” I say, sometimes a little too exuberantly.

“Oh,” They reply. Followed by silence. Followed by “Isn’t there spell-check for that?”

That’s normally where I give up. Realizing that people think of editors the way they think of dog food that makes its own gravy will do that.

So what is it, exactly, that an editor does? Well, first off, don’t ask an editor. She’s likely been waiting—all day—to talk about systematically placed commas with anyone who will ask. No. Ask a writer. In fact, ask Ruth Rakoff. She recently wrote an article for Quill & Quire in which she described what it’s like to work with an editor. In it she says “Being edited is like giving someone your favourite, most cherished toy or doll to play with—perhaps even the one you made yourself—and begging that they treat it with the same love and respect you feel toward it.

When they return your doll, you see with horror that they have pulled off the head and stuffed it up the bum and rearranged all the limbs, creating a mutant, all the while assuring you that you’ll like it better this way.”

Umm…how is that better than being compared to dog food, you ask? Well, for starters, it’s brilliant, and quite possibly the perfect metaphor for editing.

Editors take apart things—very loved things—and reassemble them with fresh, objective eyes, in the hopes of making them better—regardless of how good they were to start with. Not an easy task. Definitely not always a welcomed one. It’s that emotional reaction to change that Rakoff goes on to write about. Her rage, the grief for what’s been lost. How she carefully removes the legs from the armholes and the doll’s head from its bum, marveling at how her editor managed to get it up there in the first place. Then she says what all editors dream of hearing, “Only after your treasure has been restored and cleaned up do you realize that she has been given a new haircut, one that actually suits her well. Not just well: better. So much better that you lament not having thought of it yourself.”

See—much, much better than dog food! That kind of change and haircut is exactly what we at Enjoy Gardening are getting ready to initiate. We’re going to take your magazine and reassemble it into something new. A better version of itself. One that not only suits it well, but also suits it better. But before we do, we want to know the changes you’d like to see. Having your say is easy. Just go to enjoycentre.ca/survey and answer a few questions. Then, watch for the changes to come.

It’s an exciting time. Be part of it!

—Carmen Hrynchuk

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reflect

Plan Learn Discover inspiration points

12

Microgreens: the small but mighty Good vegetables in small packages

18

Shady Business Getting your way with the shade

26

Urban Buzz A place for bees in the city

34

European Wellness Meets Wild Rose Country Bringing the European spa experience to Alberta

40

Mulling & Muddling Mix the perfect pick-me-up every time

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relax

Entertain Style Entice

reconnect Do Change Enrich

trend spotting

48

shift

Lawn Game Revival

83

Outdoor games to stir up the fun

52

Flare Necessities

Closing the gap from farm to plate

how do you do

Fall in love with trumpet-shaped flowers

88

second look

56

Dislocations

Pecking Order with Linda Bodo

Attract birds with this country cottage feeder Reconstructing memory

92

floral design

62

Community Shared Argriculture

Floral Sushi

Over a Barrel with Linda Bodo Collect rainwater in style

Turn heads with unforgettable floral designs

recipes

68

Midnight Snacking Recipes that put the Mmm in midnight

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the path to enjoy

Dual Citizenship with Bruce Keith

It started out as a straightforward idea.

Take one established gardening business, and encourage it to blossom into a whole new venture. Greenhouses were not what they were 20 years ago, and the future was changing rapidly. Like so many industries before, ours was quickly approaching that change-or-die moment.

We decided to change. Everyone was sure there would be growing pains along the way but, ultimately, no more or less than any other maturing process.

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We started with the Enjoy Centre as a home for the new, reimagined Hole’s, and that allowed us to build from a familiar base. The Enjoy Centre was envisioned as a community of partners working to together, a new model for business and community involvement. One that would create a destination about living and life, not just gardening.

But as with any seed you plant, sometimes it’s just not possible to control the growth, and unexpected offshoots develop into outright splits. In the end, that’s what happened to our simple plan.

It started with simple things like names and labels, logos and wordmarks. Would we call it Hole’s Enjoy Centre? Or perhaps Hole’s at the Enjoy Centre. Some favoured the Enjoy Centre, a project by Hole’s. Every time questions like this came up, it took us back to our original vision: to build something new. But were we a greenhouse that sold lifestyle, a lifestyle retailer that dabbled in plants, or perhaps a collective of like-minded business that had no mandate except to create “the experience” The answer to the question was obvious to

everyone. Unfortunately what was obvious never quite matched exactly within the minds of the people steering the change. It was close, but as every step moved us away from where we started, the tiny differences moved us in different directions.

As each new process and decision was implemented, it became more and more obvious that a strong dichotomy was forming. The new Hole’s was changing and shifting in unexpected ways and ways that often had little to do with the new building or the concept of the Enjoy Centre. At the same time, the Enjoy Centre was taking on a life of its own. It had its own purposes and goals that had virtually no connection to the gardening business, Hole’s or any of the 50-odd-years of history surrounding the family. Every time Jim Hole went to a speaking engagement, we asked ourselves, was this a Hole’s-centred talk or an Enjoy Centre one? At first it was easy to speak collectively of the project and still keep Hole’s and the Enjoy Centre separate. But that became increasingly more difficult.

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the path to enjoy

And then there was resistance, some small and passive, some larger and more in your face. It came from staff, from customers and from the community in general. Materials would be ordered to be delivered to Hole’s Enjoy Centre, potential partners would insist on making the Hole’s name prominent in their promotional materials, media would always refer to the greenhouses as the primary focus of the new project because that’s what they were used to. We knew the Hole’s greenhouse business had years of exposure and could stand on its own reputation. So at every turn we worked hard to guide the language and to shape the new vision in the minds of everyone we met. “It’s the Enjoy Centre, a community of partners,” we repeated over and over. “It’s a bakery and a cafe, a wellness centre and a food store!” we’d utter before even mentioning the greenhouse. But what would the headline inevitably be? “A New Vision for Greenhouses” or “Hole’s Reinvents the Greenhouse.”

It became very obvious that the neat separation of the projects wasn’t as clear as we thought. People are wont to

cling to the familiar, and that meant the default perception that we would be a greenhouse with just that little bit more.

But as more and more partners and tenants joined us, it seemed natural to allow them their spots in the limelight. The Enjoy Centre needed to exist on its own, to grow as something other than a home for Hole’s.

After all, if the Enjoy Centre had been envisioned as a community, what kind of community would it be if we had greater and lesser partners?

But just who was the “we” in all of this? One of the real outcomes of this process was the recognition of the identity crisis that had creeped up on us. As a group, the team working on the transition was comprised of long-time staff who, not surprisingly, had a real, vested interest in the business. As you can imagine, it made for a lot of issues as we tried, often unsuccessfully, to keep the old hats separate from our new ones. On the one hand, everything about the project was new: the workflows, processes and infrastructures; the job descriptions and retail areas; signage, displays and even uniforms. On

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Our first event in the Enjoy Centre events space.

the other hand, the one thing remaining the same was the actual greenhouses. Although they were new and technologically advanced, they were there to grow plants, which meant the business of selling plants remained, which meant the customers, the media and staff who kept referring to the Enjoy Centre as a new kind of greenhouse weren’t wrong.... right? And yet we knew better.

In the end (although, believe me, the end of this saga hasn’t been written yet) it just took patience. One of the principal ideas all along had been to use seasonal space more effectively. The 1,300 square metre retail greenhouse would be very busy during the weeks of May and June. But for the other 10 months of the year, it would double as an event space that could comfortably accommodate 500 to 600 for dinner. The events space was the first thing to be completed and would be up and running for months before anything else. In November 2010, the Enjoy Centre hosted its first event in its new events space. By the time that event was done, we had finally come to terms with the reality: the Enjoy Centre really was something completely new.

From the very beginning we’d been toying with two different slogans, and as time progressed, it all fell into

place. For Hole’s, an old greenhouse business blossoming into a new business model, the tagline “Unearth the Possibilities” was chosen. And for the new and exciting partnership of Hole’s, Prairie Bistro, The Water Garden, Liquid Harvest and others, “reflect, relax, reconnect” would represent our philosophy. Two new identities growing from one common root.

So from the straightforward concept of evolving a business into something new, we now find ourselves citizens two new and quite different landscapes. One, a retailer redefining itself and moving toward a bright new future, and another, a destination and home of like-minded business focused on community, lifestyle and participation. We still suffer from moments of double vision, but by now, it is an adventure—and one that promises fertile new ground to grow, evolve and experience.

The last thing to consider is that this twinning and transformation affects the publication you now hold in your hands. Growing from its gardening roots, the next time you see this magazine, it will in all likelihood have fully embraced our transformation, accepted it’s citizenship in the new community and blossomed into Enjoy. We can’t wait to share it with you.

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reflect

Plan Learn Discover

inspiration points

12

Microgreens: the small but mighty Good vegetables in small packages

14 16

The Basics Mighty Good & Good for You

18

Shady Business

20 24

26

Getting your way with the shade

Creating Shade Shade Gardens

Urban Buzz A place for bees in the city

28 30 32

34

The Humble Bee Nests Food

European Wellness Meets Wild Rose Country Bringing the European spa experience to Alberta

36 38

40

Beyond Beauty ‘Spa-tainment’

Mulling & Muddling Mix the perfect pick-me-up every time

42 44

Mulling Muddling

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inspiration points

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Microgreens the small but mighty Good vegetables in small packages

There’s a new veg in town! Microgreens aren’t just turning heads in the grocery stores; they’re turning never-before gardeners into green thumbs. As you’ll soon discover, growing your own is a quick and easy way to take fresh and local to a new level. These miniature greens are relative newcomers on the culinary scene and an even newer trend in the grow-it-yourself realm.

Brilliant colours and surprisingly intense flavours have made microgreens a hit, but so too has the novelty of eating parts of vegetables that are only palatable when they’re young. Corn plants, for example, are deliciously sweet as shoots but when mature would only tempt a cow in a pasture. Tired of waiting ’til fall for the nutty taste of sunflower seeds? How does 14 days sound? That’s all it takes to grow a shoot from start to plate. It’s that fast turnaround that’ll get you hooked on growing. To get started, here’s what you need to know.

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The Basics

By definition, microgreens are simply vegetables or a mix of vegetables grown to the seedling stage. They were once exclusive to high-end restaurants, where they garnished plates. Today, their culinary use has expanded, and it’s commonplace to find them in salads, on a sandwich, in soup or even in a stir-fry. If you’re fortunate, you may have access to a grocer who carries microgreens or be able to find them at your local farmers’ market. If not, you’re still in luck. Demand has grown so much that garden centres sell microgreens as seeds packs. You can try individual varieties or mixes of sweet, colourful or spicy blends. Bought or homegrown, it’s a tasty trend that everyone can enjoy.

Did You Know?

Hundreds of vegetables can and are grown as microgreens. Arugula, beet, cress, mustard and radish are among the most common, partly because they’re quick to grow. Herbs such as chervil, cilantro and chives are greattasting but can take more than 14 days to germinate. Yield is also a factor when choosing what to grow. Basil and celery, for instance, take 18 to 26 days to grow to size but yeild only half as well as arugula or cress (which also mature much faster). In the world of microgreens, big yielders include Asian greens and peas. So be adventurous and experiment! Your new favourite is only days away.

Getting It Right A minimal investment in time and money.

That’s all it takes to grow your own microgreens. Unlike full-sized vegetables, microgreens need only be kept alive a few weeks, and it doesn’t matter if they get stretched in the process. Sound tempting?

Here’s how to get started.

Choose a proper container. Seedling starter trays with domed lids are ideal for growing microgreens. Look for them at any garden centre.

Fill ’er up. Fill the trays with a goodquality soilless potting mix to a depth of 2.5–4 cm. Keep the potting mix about 1 cm from the lip of the tray so that seeds and potting mix don’t wash out when you water. Next, level and smooth the surface without compacting it.

Sow your seeds. Thickly scatter seeds over the surface, and cover (topdress) with more potting mix or vermiculite. As a general rule, the Note: Larger seeds, topdressing should such as peas, will be no deeper than germinate more successfully if covered the thickness of the with potting mix. seed. Alternatively,

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101

Greens

Although the terms get used interchangeably, “sprout�, “microgreen� and “baby green� each refer to different stages of plant growth. Here’s a guide to understanding what you’re eating.

Sprout: Synonymous with germination, a sprout is the first stage of development. Grown in moist environments without soil, they can be eaten as soon as the sown seeds develop—you guessed it—visible sprouts. The familiar grocery-store alfalfa, mung bean and radish sprouts are slightly more mature and sport their first set of leaves, called cotyledons. These sprouts are usually slightly opaque and have a crunchy texture.

cover the seeds with a cotton or paper towel, which will need to be removed once the seeds have sprouted. Next, shower them gently but thoroughly with water. Pop on the dome, place in a relatively warm spot (12–24°C) and keep consistently moist to ensure germination (a spray bottle works great). At this stage, the seeds don’t need light to sprout, so the tray doesn’t have to be in a sunny location.

Manage your crop. Once the majority of the seeds have germinated, remove the dome (and the towel if you used one). Next, if the tray’s not already in a bright sunlit spot, now’s the time to move it to one. Grow lights are also an option if you don’t have a spot that receives at least four hours of direct sunlight per day. How often you need to water will depend on temperature, tray size and potting mix depth. To assess, dig your finger into the potting Note: Microgreens are delicate and can mix. It should feel become matted if moist, like a wrung- they’re not showered out sponge, but gently when watered. not soaking wet.

Harvest your greens. Most microgreens are ready to eat seven to fourteen days after they’ve sprouted, depending on the plants and the stage at which you chose to eat them. Your crop can be harvested just after the first set of leaves (cotyledons) open, or you can wait until the second set of leaves develops. If you plan to let your greens grow bigger than that, seed them slightly thinner so they don’t become too leggy, turn yellow or rot from crowding.

To harvest, gently grasp a handful of greens and cut above the potting mix level with a pair of scissors. Use immediately, or store in the fridge. They will last up to one week in a sealed plastic container.

Quick Tips

Microgreen: Microgreens have stronger, more developed flavours than sprouts, as well as more colour. Plants at this second stage of development establish roots and develop their first set of true leaves.

Consequently, they look and taste more like salad greens than sprouts do. Microgreens are usually grown in soil and in brightly lit conditions with relatively low humidity.

Baby green: Baby greens are allowed to develop past the true leaf stage but are harvested before they fully mature.

You’ll find these tender leaves available as mesclun and spring mix greens. Baby greens are grown in conditions very similar to microgreens but are sown less thickly to give them room to grow larger.

s "UY UNTREATED SEEDS FREE OF FUNGICIDES 9OU MAY even prefer to buy organic. s 2EUSE THE SOIL IF THERE WERE NO PROBLEMS WITH disease or pests. Compost thereafter. s )NVEST IN GROW PADS IF YOU DON T WANT TO FUSS WITH soil. They’re specifically designed for microgreen production and readily available at garden centres. s 3TART A SECOND TRAY AFTER THE lRST HAS SPROUTED FOR A continuous supply.

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inspiration points

Mighty Good & G o o d f o r Yo u Small or large, vegetables are plain-old good for you. Vitamin and antioxidant-rich microgreens are no exception. However, claims that microgreens have more nutritional value than their full-grown counterparts haven’t been proven. As relative newbies on the culinary scene, they haven’t been the focus of many studies. There are studies on sprouts, but because the nutritional value of the seed is included in the findings, the information isn’t directly comparable to microgreens. But don’t get hung up on the nutritional analysis, or lack of it.

There’s no doubt freshly grown and picked produce, regardless of size, is always a healthy choice. Here are some of our favourites.

Science & Technology Certain seeds develop white fuzz on their stems when they start to grow. It’s a natural part of the process when seedlings set roots and shouldn’t be mistaken for mould. That said, if you’re growing microgreens without soil, start with a sterile container to deter the growth of unwanted organisms.

‘Sugar Sprint’ Snap Pea

These attractive shoots with raw pea flavour make a great addition to stir-fries.

As a green, harvest when about 10 cm tall.

As a full-grown plant, ‘Sugar Sprint’ is a bush-type pea that grows well in pots or small spaces. Mature pods are 7–8 cm long and abundant. Shoots in 14 days; peas in 60.

‘Spicy Mix’ Microgreens

This seed blend lives up to its name, adding a gorgeous, spicy flavour to any meal. Contains sawtooth mustard, peppergrass cress, ‘Red Ace’ cabbage, ‘Red Giant’ mustard and ‘China Rose’

radish. Harvest when plants have at least two true leaves or when they are 2.5–5 cm tall. Seed less densely to grow to baby green stage. Microgreens in 10–14 days.

‘Liquid Sunshine’ Wheatgrass

Wheatgrass is a mainstay in health drinks.

Grow your own to guarantee product control and freshness. As a bonus, varieties such as ‘Liquid Sunshine’ not only grow like a weed but also look great as a table centerpiece. You can also opt to just sprout the wheat berries. When sprouts are about 2.5 cm, use them in salads or bread recipes, or grind them to make veggie burgers. Shoots in 7 days.

Quick Tips Grow several types of plants in one container for a variety of tastes and textures.

To create your own spicy mix, pick your favourite varieties of these plants, and use the following proportions: 3 parts radish seed 3 parts mustard seed 2 parts cress seed 2 part red cabbage seed

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Shady Business Business Getting your way with the shade When it comes to outdoor living, most of us have a love-hate relationship with shade. Either we want it, or we’ve got too much. To soothe our souls (or perhaps our soles), there’s a need for at least a little shade in our outdoor rooms. Yet it seems that only in the heat of summer does our desire for the right balance become urgent. In addition to the comfort a combination of sun and shade provides, it also allows us to grow a wide range of plants. So this year, before summer hits its stride, tackle the shade or lack of it in your yard. Whichever camp you’re in, there are tips here for dealing with shady business.

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inspiration points

Creating Shade If your outdoor space is more like a desert than an oasis, creating shade will make it much more inviting. Strategically planting trees, shrubs or vines may be the easiest way to solve the problem. They’re not an instant fix, but purchasing large and fast-growing varieties will produce shade sooner than if you plant small and slow-growing ones. Of course, if the most blistering hot spot is your deck or balcony, manmade solutions can also provide good shade. Here are some ways to create shade where you need it.

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Getting It Right Unwrap an umbrella. Gone are the days of too-small, fixed patio umbrellas.

They’re now available in a wide range of colours, materials and sizes. Freestanding, cantilevered versions are especially useful.

Their portability means you can move them to different areas of your deck, patio

or lawn. Some even come with detachable netting so you can relax out of the reach of mosquitoes.

Choose a canopy. An outdoor canopy provides even more coverage than an umbrella. Octagonal or square models are most common. Some come with floors and netting and are free-standing. Others need to be fixed to decking material. You can also find more decorative models with trellises for corner posts or built-in shelves to accommodate pots of plants. Patio furniture, such as gliders and chairs, also often come with their own canopies.

Unfurl a sail. A fabric sail or group of them will limit sunlight without completely obstructing your view of the sky. Ready-made square or triangular shapes are readily available, or you can custom order one to fit your space.

They’re made of waterproof and UV ray-blocking material with either stainless cable sewn into the perimeter or rings at the corners. Install posts to anchor them to existing structures or trees. Another more traditional option is to attach an awning to an exterior wall.

Pitch a pergola. OK, as a do-it-yourself project, pergolas might not be for everyone. But in addition to contributing shade, they also add architectural interest, extend outdoor living space and can be used as a structure to grow plants on.

Screen out the sun. Although it won’t block out overhead light, a vertical screen is useful in providing shade as well as privacy. Rustic or refined, screens can be made or bought relatively cheaply.

Quick Tips

Water has a distinct cooling effect as it evaporates.

And although a small fountain might not have a major impact on the overall temperature in your outdoor space, it’s certainly psychologically refreshing. If you’re really looking to influence the temperature, a large water feature or misting system will make a bigger impact.

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Quick Tips

Protect yourself from the sun’s harsh rays by wearing sunglasses, sunscreen and a hat while doing yard work. Avoid exposure at midday when the sun is at its strongest.

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inspiration points Climbers such as grapes, hops and clematis can be planted along side screens to provide even deeper shade. If planting in the ground isn’t an option, potted annual climbers, such as pole beans, canary bird vine or cup and saucer vine, can be grown beside the screen.

Plant strategically. Trees, shrubs, vines and tall perennials all cast great shade.

For year-round shade, include evergreens in your plan. If your condo board won’t let you plant, or your outside space consists only of a deck or balcony, don’t

despair. Take some large pots of tropical houseplants outside. Just remember to acclimatize them to the sun and to bring them back indoors before the first risk of frost. Banana plants also grow very quickly in containers.

Construct shade. Add a porch or extend your roof to create permanent shade. Yes, these are major structural changes and won’t be cheap. They will, however, add value to your home and transform unbearably hot areas into places where you can relax.

Swedish Columnar Aspen

Canary Bird Vine

Elder ‘Sutherland Gold’

Don’t overlook this popular columnar tree as a shade source. In addition to providing relief from the sun, the sound of its trembling leaves is soothing. Favoured for its fast rate of growth, it can be planted quite close to decks or houses. A good option for small yards or tight spaces. Shallow, non-invasive roots. Very hardy. Height: 10 m; width: 1.5–2 m. Sun.

This annual will soar up to 4 m to provide almost instant coverage. Readily wraps itself around supports. It features deeply divided, palm-shaped foliage and bright-yellow flowers. Each 1 cm bloom has two fringed upper petals and three small lower petals. Height: up to 4 m; spacing: 25–30 cm.

Sun.

Most elders grow quickly, but you’ll need to pick one that’s hardy in your area so it won’t die back. This Sambucus racemosa, with its lacy golden foliage, meets both criteria. White blooms in spring; scarlet berry clusters in summer. Shade tolerant. Prefers moist soil. Height: 2–3 m; width: 2–3 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Did You Know?

In addition to the shade they create, trees cool the air through a process called transpiration. The cooling effect of one large tree is equivalent to 10 room-sized air conditioners.

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inspiration points

Shade Gardens

If you’re slightly intimidated or plain-old frustrated by the dark corners of your yard, you’re not alone. Fortunately, there is a surprisingly large number of plants—including some brilliant bloomers—that thrive in the shade. And, in some ways, shade gardens can be easier to maintain than sunny ones because plants grow more slowly and soil conditions stay damper, which means less frequent watering. Of course, if not even weeds grow in your darkest corner, mulch and a piece of statuary might be your best bet. Otherwise, it’s just a matter of understanding your shade, managing it and picking the right plants. Here’s how.

Getting It Right Not all shade is created equal. Some is hot and dry; some is cool and damp. In addition, the density and duration of shade determines what plants will thrive in it. And remember that the shade a location receives can vary within the growing season as the sun’s position changes. Kind of confusing? No worries.

Here’s a description of each type of shade.

Partial Shade. Typically, this is the type of light east-facing properties receive— several hours of direct sun in the morning and shade thereafter. Sometimes you will get both morning and evening sun in a partially shady location. Plants that can’t tolerate intense sunlight do well in this type of location.

Dappled Shade. This pattern provides a mix of equal parts sun and shade throughout the day. It can often be found beneath the canopy of trees with finely textured leaves (such as birch and honey locus) or under a pergola.

Open or Light Shade. Hedges, fences and other structures can block light to produce this type of shade. The areas in these shadows are open to the sky, so they get lots of reflected bright light and, perhaps, a bit of fragmented direct sun.

Large trees with dense canopies, such as oaks and maples, can also cast open shade.

The objects that obstruct sunlight this way may also block rain, making for dry conditions.

Deep or Heavy Shade. The understory of a forest typifies this type of shade. In this case, little or no direct sunlight makes it to the forest floor because the layers of foliage absorb it. Similarly, moderate ambient light can be found beneath the overhang of a building or within a walled garden, but these areas are usually much drier than the soils in other types of shady areas.

Full Shade. Simply put, this situation has little ambient light and no direct sunlight. You’ll find it beneath rock overhangs, at wall corners, under or along side decks or at the base of dense trees, such as pines or spruce. These locations are typically cool, and little or nothing will grow there if they’re dry. If there is moisture, you’re in luck. Moss, liverworts and ferns will grow happily in those conditions.

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Quick Tips

s )F THE LIGHT IN YOUR YARD HAS DIMINISHED AS PLANTS HAVE MATURED OR YOU VE MOVED to an older property that’s too shady for your taste, prune trees and shrubs to let sunlight back in. Just keep in mind that no more than a third of the growth should be removed from a tree or shrub at one time. s ! MORE DRASTIC AND MORE EXPENSIVE OPTION IS TO ENTIRELY REMOVE ONE OR MORE TREES It could also be a necessity if you have damaged or diseased trees on your property. s ,IGHT BLOCKING FENCES CAN BE REPAINTED WHITE TO REmECT MORE LIGHT OR REPLACED WITH new lattice-style or chain-link ones to bring more light into your yard. s -IRRORS HUNG ON A FENCE OR GARAGE WALL WILL ALSO REmECT LIGHT

Bleeding Heart ‘Gold Heart’

Golden-toned foliage sets this variety apart from other common bleeding hearts (Dicentra spectbilis).

But its elegant stalks and dangling blossoms are true to form. To maintain the bright leaf colour, several hours of sunlight per day is required. Avoid hot, windy sites. Clump forming.

Height: 75–90 cm; width: 75–90 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

Coleus ‘Sophisticated’

Known for their refined foliage, coleuses add a shot of colour wherever they’re

grown. Deep burgundy dominates the foliage of this variety, although its scalloped edges have a yellow-green margin. This series called Emotions has larger leaves than many other coleuses.

Bushy growth habit.

Height: 60–75cm; spacing: 40–45 cm. Shade.

Hosta ‘Francee’

Hostas are quintessential shade plants. They perform well in both light and deep shade. ‘Francee’ is an old standby with forest-green leaves edged in white. As with all hostas, it tolerates

a wide range of soil types.

Height: 55 cm; width: 1 m.

Shade to a.m. sun.

Goat’s Beard

Lush and large enough to fill a big space, Aruncus dioicus is a perennial favourite. Although not sold sexed, flowers on male plants are feathery and whiter than those on female plants, which tend to be greenish-white and pendant shaped. Drought tolerant; clump forming.

Height: 1–1.5 m; width: 90–100 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

Quick Tips Broadleaf evergreens such as rhododendrons and azaleas appreciate dappled shade.

Balsams and boxwoods also perform well in shade, as do deciduous shrubs such as arrowwoods, European cranberries and flowering raspberries.

Groundcovers that perform well in shade include bugleweed, lily of the valley, lamium and bergenia. If you’re fortunate to have enough shade and moisture for moss to thrive, grow it between paving stones. The look is fantastic.

Bright blooms of begonias, astilbes and bleeding hearts add shots of colour to shade gardens.

Moisture lovers that also like the shade include ligularia, meadowsweet and goat’s beard, whereas bishop’s hat, lady’s mantle and Solomon’s seal tolerate dry conditions.

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inspiration points

U R BA N

Buzz A P l ace f o r B e e s in t he C it y

Why would anyone invite bees into her garden?

Birds—oh, yes. Butterflies—the more the better. But bees? These fuzzy garden visitors don’t have a great reputation. But bees don’t wait in hiding for the right moment to sting us. They are happy enough to bumble from flower to flower undisturbed, all the while providing a valuable service: pollination. The majority of flowering plants and a third of our food depend on pollinators, mostly bees. But with urban sprawl and the common use of pesticides, natural and safe habitat can be hard to come by. As a result, pollinator numbers are declining the world over. Thankfully, part of the solution is right in our backyards.

The right plants and an undisturbed patch of garden is all you need to create a pollinators’ paradise.

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The Humble Bee First things first: bees have gotten a bad rap. In fact, even the good things we hear about bees aren’t always accurate. For instance, did you know most bees don’t produce honey, and those that do produce only enough to feed the hive? Well, it’s time to dispel some myths. Here’s a primer to get you started.

Bees’ nesting habits vary from bee to bee. Because of our familiarity with the European honeybee, it’s easy to assume that most bees live in colonies.

However, most are solitary and build their own nests for laying eggs. This is good news for us because, without an instinctive need to protect the hive, native bees will sting only when trapped, squished or stepped on.

The majority of native bees build their nests in the ground.

The others use holes in dead trees, hollowedout stems and even old walls. Bumblebees, the only other social bee besides the European

Bees vs. Wasps

honeybee, make their colonies underground, usually in abandoned mouse burrows. They have also been known to use undisturbed compost piles.

Native bees are as varied as the plants they feed on.

Mason bees, for example, are slightly smaller than honeybees and often have metallic-blue bodies. Look for them in orchards where they are increasingly being used for pollinating. The tiny masked bee, a mere 4–9 mm in length, has distinctive yellow or white markings on its face and a black body. The large longhorned bee has a velvety body, and the male sports very long antennae.

Fuzzy vs. Sleek

One of the reasons bees have a bad reputation is because they’re often associated with their cousin, the wasp. It can be difficult to distinguish between them, but knowing a few key features will help you tell them apart.

Bees’ hair-covered bodies help them collect pollen to bring back to their nests. This feature is what causes pollination as well.

Wasps’ bodies are usually more elongated, sleek and hairless.

However, a few bees collect pollen internally, and are virtually hairless. The cuckoo bee, for example, lays her eggs in the nests of other bees and doesn’t collect pollen at all.

Vegetarian vs. Carnivorous

Docile vs. Aggressive

Bees feed on a cocktail of pollen and nectar, while wasps feed largely on small insects and supplement their diet with nectar (or a sweet drink left out on the patio). When a wasp is spotted on a flower, it is usually searching for its next meal.

Due to their predatory nature, wasps are much more aggressive than bees and can be easily provoked. Both bees and wasps can sting multiple times in a row, but bees will sting only when truly threatened. It can be easy to enjoy these little fuzzballs without ever being stung.

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Did You Know?

Only female bees have stingers (which are also used to lay eggs), and only honeybees die when they sting. Honeybees release part of their abdomens with their stingers, which keep pumping venom after detaching, and dies shortly thereafter.

Contrary to popular belief, honeybees are not native to North America, but were introduced by Europeans some 400 years ago.

The ones we see in the wild have escaped domestic bee farms to build new colonies.

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Nests Habitat loss is the number one cause of declining native bee populations. Bees have evolved with the land they live on, and once it has been turned into farmland, pasture or urban space, bees can struggle to find a home. Providing a habitat in the city is the first step to welcoming bees into your garden.

How to Build a Mason Bee House

The vast majority of bees build their nests in the ground and look for an undisturbed patch of soil to make their home in. The female bee will excavate a channel and line it with leaves, petals, mud or her own secretions.

She will then collect pollen and nectar and pack in into a ball at the bottom of the cavity and lay an egg on it. Once she seals this egg cell, she’ll continue building the next chamber and the next, until she has reached the top of the channel. Having built several nests this way, the female bee will die, and the eggs will be left to hatch on their own.

Did You Know?

An undisturbed piece of garden is essential for a bee to feel safe in the garden. Bees won’t burrow through groundcover, so if you prefer to mulch your garden, leave a bare spot.

The soil should be welldrained, even sandy, and in a sunny spot. If you have humus-rich soil, fill an old oak barrel with sand and soil and get ready to watch bees set up house.

For bees that nest in hollows, providing a home can be as easy as drilling holes into a snag or thick log. If it comes with beetle tunnels, all the better. Drill holes 3–10 mm in diameter, about 10 cm deep, and at

a right angle to protect the nest from rain. Make sure the entrance of each hole is smooth and free of splinters.

Rigid stems from raspberry bushes, sunflowers and even reeds can also serve as bee bungalows. Bundle the stems together and hang them horizontally in a sheltered spot, away from rain and direct sun.

To help bees pass the winter, leave parts of your garden unkempt during fall clean up. Favorite overwintering sites include wild patches of grasses, weeds, wildflowers, logs, brush, leaf litter and bush stems.

While there are ready-made mason bee houses on the market, making one of your own is very easy. All you need is some untreated scrap lumber (an old fence post or a 4x4 are good choices), a router bit drill and a 5/16 router bit.

1. First, cut the scrap lumber into a 15 cm length.

2. Being carful not to drill all the way through the blocks, begin drilling holes distanced 2 cm apart until the block is covered with holes.

3. Cap the block with a shingle to protect the holes from rain, and hang your mason bee house at least one metre above the ground and facing east (bees are cold-blooded and depend on the sun to get going in the morning). During dry times, create a patch of moist soil near the nest for mason bees to use for sealing their egg chambers.

There are roughly 20,000 species of bees in the world, and 800 call Canada home.

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Food Bees start emerging from hibernation in early spring and reduce their activity by mid September. Because of their close relationship with native plants, each bee species emerges in time with its favourite flower. Feeding habits also vary from bee to bee. Some are specialists, choosing only one type of plant to feed on, while others are generalists. When designing your garden to attract the greatest variety of bees, focus on native plants with various blooming periods. In no time, you’ll enjoy watching these furry and gentle foragers circling the flowers in your garden.

Did You Know?

Bees are red-colourblind, so choose flowers that are blue, yellow and purple.

Getting it Right Choose native plants full of nectar and pollen. Native plants and bees have evolved together and are well suited to meeting each other’s needs. Avoid exotic flowers that have been bred for showiness; they often have diminished nectar and pollen production in exchange for layers of petals. Generally, plants of the Asteracea and Lamiaceae family are full of both nectar and pollen.

Ask your local nursery to point you in the right direction.

Plant large patches of each flower. Bees are attracted by colour and scent, and a large patch of

a single flower is especially welcoming. The proximity of multiple flowers also means that bees can forage in one area for a longer time (they will have to make dozens of trips each day). A patch that is at least one metre squared is best.

Choose an array of plants that will bloom throughout the season.

A garden should contain at least ten varieties to attract bees all season long.

A range of flower shapes and sizes will accommodate the different tongue lengths of bees, and different blooming times will ensure there is always something to eat.

Nectar & Pollen Plants for Every Season

Spring: Shrubs and trees will provide nectar early in the season when food is scarce. Crabapple, cherry, lilac, dogwood, willow and wild geranium are good choices.

Summer: Meadowsweet, coneflower, meadow blazing star, cosmos, verbena, milkweed, salvia, basil and tomatoes.

Late Summer; Fall: Joe pye-weed, goldenrod (Above), black-eyed Susan, great blue lobelia, native sunflowers, asters (Opposite page), squash and pumpkin.

Quick Tips Once your garden is ready to house and feed bees, keep it pesticidefree. Even small amounts of pesticide will kill small critters like bees. If you have to use pesticide, make sure it’s organic, apply sparingly in the evening when bees have finished their foraging.

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inspiration points

European Wellness

meets Wild Rose Country

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Bring ing the Eu r o p e a n S p a Exp erience t o Alb e r t a In Alberta, a man’s man is just like a truck commercial.

He’s made tough and not afraid to get his hands dirty. But when it comes time to get clean, refreshed and relaxed, each has his own preferences.

Some burly-esque specimens lace up skates and hit everything that moves.

Others take to the outdoors on big toys that move so fast good sense can’t keep up. Then there are men who prefer to unwind with friends on a patio, preferably with a cold one—or two or three.

Ian Hayward has his own ideas about how to unwind. Some days a pedicure or manicure does the trick. On really stressful occasions he turns to a massage table and plenty of muscle power.

Hayward is wellness director of the Water Garden, a wellness spa and holistic clinic set to open next spring in St. Albert. The ex-pat Brit has 20 years experience in the wellness spa industry, most of it spent in Europe treating everyone from members of the royal family, to high-powered European Union industrialists to average families.

Bringing the European spa experience to North America—and Alberta no less—poses a new kind of

challenge given obvious divergent attitudes about the body and wellness.

Yet Hayward has zeroed in on at least one commonality that crisscrosses all cultures and socio-economic backgrounds: stress.

“The biggest killer in the world today is stress,” he says, noting that diseases such as cancers, strokes and heart disease have all been linked to stress.

Hayward has had his own personal experiences with stress. Working too hard, poor dietary habits and not enough relaxation led to a heart attack in his 20s, prompting him to reevaluate his life. He found healing in ayurveda (“science of life” in Sanskrit) a traditional Indian healing practice that was brought to Europe during British colonial rule of India. Hayward has adapted the principles of the practice to make it accessible to Westerners, although it’s still not the typical experience North Americans associate with spas.

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Beyond beauty In this country, any hair salon that offers facials or manicures calls itself a spa, linking the word with a superficial beauty experience. In Europe, spas focus on wellness of both the body and mind, a practice that dates back centuries to the roots of the word and phrases like “taking the waters.� The first spas were built by Romans at hot springs in places like Bath, Buxton and the aptly named Spa, Belgium.

European spas do include beauty treatments, but also extend to massage, nutritional counselling, breathing exercises, water treatments, aromatherapy, physical exercise and even emotional guidance from psychologists.

Each treatment program is designed to fit the specific needs of the client.

Hands-on treatments such as massages are sure-fire stress beaters, and European spas excel at providing a complete healing experience. Across the pond it’s common for two masseuses to work on each client for an experience that is more potent than what can be provided with a single pair of hands. They use techniques similar to acupuncture, where the hands target meridian points associated with specific parts of the body.

Transferring the same experience to North America, where attitudes about the body tend to be far less open, poses some challenges, especially in rough and tumble Alberta. To make clients more comfortable, Hayward assures that female clients receive massages from two women, while men receive treatments from men.

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The body is so drained from the experience, clients are given an herbal steam treatment. The head is never heated; in fact, the face is often massaged with coconut ice cubes for a cooling effect on the body.

It might not be the typical massage, but it’s a formula that’s worked wonders for men with even the roughest of necks, including members of the Irish national rugby team.

While the Water Garden will employ other hands-on techniques such as pedicures, manicures and facials. Hayward will also help clients explore their inner selves. Clients are taught “self-referral” techniques to help them read their own bodies so they can, for instance, stop eating when the stomach is three-quarters full.

That focus on complete wellness diverges from the North American view of spas as pampered beauty-session time outs and is closer to the European model, which has been influenced by Eastern philosophy. “Ayurvedic treatment was practically unheard of a decade ago”, says Rakesh Modi of the International Council of Ayurvedic Physicians Inc. in Toronto.

“It was like a bubble, it was just coming out. People were very curious, but people were looking for alternative therapies,” he says.

Modi has been in the industry for 14 years since being introduced to the practice by his father. The International Council was established in 2004, in part to help educate Canadians about ayurveda.

The practice involves classical therapies such as massage and using steam to detoxify the body, but it also focuses on

diet and nutrition. Tailoring clients’ dietary requirements starts with assessing their body type—either earth, water, fire or air. “Most people in the cool Canadian climate are air,” Modi says, “which generally requires avoiding gassy foods like coffee and beans and eating more citrus and cooling foods like yogurt.”

With North American clients being more comfortable with Western-trained nutritionists and healthcare practitioners, Modi concedes that introducing this

With globali zation comes a willingness to open to new possibilities and embrace a fusion of east and w es t.

ancient Eastern tradition took some “convincing,” though he’s loathe to use the word. But with globalization comes a willingness to open to new possibilities and embrace a fusion of east and west.

“It is growing day by day,” he says. “It has a good, bright future, but we want more and more people to be part of it.”

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‘Spa-tainment’ Back in Alberta, introducing the concept of a wellness spa isn’t about trying to “turn people into Europeans,” says Marina Michaelides, the company’s marketing and communications manager. In Europe, nudity is more commonly accepted; in some spas co-ed saunas rooms aren’t out of the norm.

“Nudity just wouldn’t work in Canada,” says Michaelides. Clients needn’t fear showing a little bulge or cellulite since they’ll be required to wear bathing suits in thermal areas such as the saunas and hamams (Turkish-style saunas that focus on water therapy) and light cotton wraps

treatments are used and what they involve.

Spa etiquette videos will also be used to demystify the experience.

“Teaching basic practices like keeping one’s voice down in a hamam to how to dress or move through one area of the spa to another,” Michaelides says. “There is a certain amount of fear and trepidation until it’s explained.”

will be worn in other places such as the massage tables.

Given common misconceptions about European spas, the Water Garden plans to educate beginners with packages that let the uninitiated listen to guest speakers at workshops explain why certain

The goal of the Water Garden is to create spa entertainment, where families turn to the healing therapies of the spa experience for an evening out instead of, say, taking in a flick at the multiplex. Programs will focus on movement, providing everything from yoga and tai chi to freestyle dance and a Wii Fit games

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“ Yo u ’ r e o n l y e f f i c i e n t w h e n you’re b e in g e f fi c i en t.” H a y w a r d says.

room as a way to stay fit—and have fun, too, Michaelides says.

“Going to the spa is healthy, and it’s a form of entertainment,” she says. “We want to make it family friendly.”

The spa experience could also become corporate friendly as North American companies start to embrace the cost and productivity benefits of a fit and healthy workplace. In a complex world of pervasive deadlines, plane-hopping

schedules and constantly buzzing smart phones, finding time for the spa might seem problematic, but it has its rewards, both personal and professional.

“You’re only efficient when you’re being efficient, and if you’re super-stressed, you’re not efficient,” Hayward says.

On some occasions staying stress-free may even entail taking a day away from the office so that relaxation is the only item on the agenda.

Begging off work for a spa day isn’t exactly the norm in a land of oil and physical labour, but, then again, rough and tumble Albertans have some mighty tough kinks to work through. Just think what Wild Rose Country can accomplish with a little European-inspired TLC. Now that’s an Alberta advantage!

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inspiration points

Mulling Muddling

&

Mix the perfect pick-me-up every time

For many of us, the kitchen is a playground full of flavours and spices that bend with our imagination. But we don’t often think of the bar as an extension of the kitchen. And why not when the same rules apply? After a long day, a well-crafted drink has the power to invigorate, surprise and soothe. Knowing a few basic techniques and flavour pairings is all you need to get started. Before you know it, you'll be blending and infusing as the mood strikes you.

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Mulling Mulled wine needn’t be reserved for the holidays. It’s perfect for a heartwarming pick-me-up on a cold and rainy day. Or any day, for that matter! And while you can use leftover wine from last night’s dinner, buying an inexpensive red is a small investment for a lovely evening. Just don’t let the wine clerk know you’re about to “ruin” a perfectly good bottle of wine.

Getting it Right 1.

2.

Start with a semi-dry table wine. Although any red will do, a robust Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon will stand up best to the myriad of spices you’re about to put in.

Pour wine into a non-reactive saucepan and set on medium heat until the wine is steaming. Don’t let the wine reach boiling temperature. Turn heat down to low to prevent the alcohol from evaporating further.

Quick Tips

3.

4.

Add your choice of spices: whole cloves, cinnamon sticks, star anise, whole peppercorns, whole nutmeg, grated ginger, vanilla beans, even cardamom pods. You’ll notice some recipes will call for a bay leaf or a couple of sprigs of rosemary. Experiment with different ingredients to suit your own palate.

To sweeten the brew, add a cup of apple or cranberry juice, half an orange, sliced, and a

5.

6.

7.

cup of brown sugar or a quarter cup of honey.

Add a couple of ounces of brandy or cognac to the mix for extra rosy cheeks.

Heat gently for 20 minutes.

Serve in a heatresistant glass. Garnish with citrus fruit, or in the Scandinavian way with almonds and raisins.

Now that you’re a pro at mulling, try different variations with mead, port and cider!

s )N THE UNLIKELY EVENT OF LEFTOVERS REDUCE THE MULLED WINE OVER low heat until the liquid is down to a third of its volume. Pour the syrup over your morning pancakes. Mulled wine can also add a spicy twist to a summer sangria. s /NCE YOU VE DISCOVERED THE PERFECT BLEND OF MULLING SPICES CREATE mulling sachets to pull out whenever you need a warm-up. Place your spices in a square of muslin or cheesecloth and tie with butcher’s twine. Store in an airtight container.

Did You Know?

Wine infused with various spices has been enjoyed for centuries in one form or another. The most common of these is called Hippocras—after the father of medicine, Hippocrates. It is said that he would concoct the brew as a cure-all, using wine as the base, various spices as the healing ingredients and honey to help the medicine go down.

Mulled wine was especially popular during the middle ages, when wine was crude and water dirty. Adding alcohol to water and heating the concoction would make the drink safe, while adding fruit and spices would make it palatable.

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inspiration points

Muddling Cocktail culture is enjoying a resurgence full of fresh, seasonal ingredients and unusual flavours. These are not the sugary, poorly proportioned libations found at most bars, but carefully crafted drinks that please and surprise the palate. Mixology is an art, but the fundamentals are straightforward. Once you’ve got a grip on the basics, you’re well on your way to becoming a chef at the bar.

Getting It Right Muddling releases juices and essential oils from fruit and herbs and gives the cocktail a distinctive and bright character. A proper muddling technique will ensure maximum flavour.

1. Start with the proper tools. A muddler should be a few inches longer than your muddling glass so that you don’t bruise your knuckles in the process. It can be made of stainless steel or wood, but choose

2.

3.

4.

one without a lacquer finish, so you don’t run the risk of chips in your drink.

Always muddle in a sturdy glass or mixing tin that can withstand the pressure.

If muddling a citrus, roll the fruit on a hard surface beforehand to start the juice release and make your job easier.

Combine fruit and herbs in a muddling glass and apply firm pressure in quarter

5.

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turns. Too gentle a touch will not release the oils, and roughness will crush the flavour.

Once the muddling is done, finish building your drink, then shake with ice. Any cocktail that’s more than straight spirits should always be shaken, not stirred.

Double strain with a hawthorne strainer and a tea strainer to ensure no fruit pulp spoils the uniform look of your cocktail.

Enjoy responsibly!

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Building a Cocktail A cocktail is typically made of three components: a base, a modifier and an accent. The base is a single spirit—vodka, gin, tequila, rum, brandy, whiskey—and makes up the majority of a cocktail.

The modifier balances the base and gives the drink its character. Aromatic wines, vermouth and liqueurs fall into this category.

Finally, the accent adds a splash of flavour and colour with a variety of bitters and non-alcoholic syrup.

Of course, not all drinks will break down neatly into these categories.

The classic Martini, for example, has only two ingredients—gin as the base and vermouth as the modifier. And many modern drinks have more than one modifier or accent. The key to a good cocktail, no matter the ingredients, is balance.

Traditionally, cocktails divide into two categories: aromatics and sours.

Aromatics, such as the Manhattan and the Old Fashioned, are made with bitters and aromatic wine and spirits.

Sours, such as the Margarita and the Sidecar, are made with fruit juice, usually freshly squeezed lemon or lime.

It’s easy to become overwhelmed with ingredients once you start flipping through a book of cocktail recipes. When stocking your bar for the first time, stick to a few classics you know and enjoy, learn how to prepare them in a heartbeat and build from there. The flavour combinations are virtually endless, so don’t be afraid to experiment.

You’ll soon learn which complements work best.

For a shot of inspiration, enjoy this tasty treat created by Jeff Halaby and Karem El-Halaby from Lacombe Park Spirits in St. Albert, Alberta.

Liquid Harvest Caramel Coffee Martini 1 ounce caramel vodka 1 ounce espresso (chilled) or substitute espresso vodka 1/2

ounce of chocolate liquor Combine espresso, caramel vodka and chocolate liquor in a shaker filled with ice. Shake well and pour into a slightly chilled martini glass that’s been drizzled with caramel sauce. Top with whipped cream and shaved chocolate.

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relax

Entertain Style Entice

trend spotting

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Lawn Game Revival Outdoor games to stir up the fun

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Flare Necessities Fall in love with trumpet-shaped flowers

second look

56

Dislocations Reconstructing memory

floral design

62

Floral Sushi Turn heads with unforgettable floral designs

recipes

68

Midnight Snacking Recipes that put the Mmm in midnight

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Midnight Mac & Cheese Asparagus & Feta Omelette Spiced Maple Popcorn Triple Chocolate Brownie Cookies Amaretto White-Chocolate Steamed Milk

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trend spotting

An insider’s look at what’s hot for 2011

Lawn Game l a iv v e R

Outdoor games t o st i r up t he fu n Nothing moves summer along like a good old grudge match. Just ask anyone who’s played croquet with his or her siblings. This year, the trend for old-fashioned competitiveness is back.

From Twister to bunnock and everything in between, lawn games are this year's trendsetters. So find your favourite, and make time for play! Summers, after all, were made for it.

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Half the fun of playing lawn games is keeping score. Not only do chalkboards make great scorecards, they make very entertaining walls of fame—or shame, as the case may be.

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trend spotting

An insider’s look at what’s hot for 2011 Although it’s been said that croquet spread through the British Empire almost as quickly as tobacco smoke, it’s also known for spreading something much less accepted at the time: equality. As one of the first outdoor sports to allow men and women to compete together on an equal playing field, croquet quite literally changed the face of sport. Today, it’s enjoyed by everyone: women and men, kids and adults, young and old.

If you grew up in the 60s or 70s, you probably have memories of lawn darts. None of them good, of course, but memories nonetheless. Well, they’re back with vengeance; and this time, they’re even safe. Unlike these old-fashioned ones, which were banned from sale in the late 80s, today’s versions have rounded, rubber-ball ends instead of steel tips.

The object of the game, however, hasn’t changed: toss them at a ring halfway down the yard, and hope to do better than the person flinging next to you.

Bunnock

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Who knew tossing around anklebones of horses could be such fun? You may not be familiar with bunnock, but it’s an outdoor game that’s surging in popularity. It’s a great game for the whole family and can be best described as a horseshoes, bocce ball, bowling hybrid. Today, many people use plastic replicas, but in the 1800s, the game was played with old, weathered anklebones from horses. First made popular by soldiers in northern Siberia, bunnock is commonly played by two teams of four. The objective: knock down your bones before your opponents knock down theirs. Weighted bones, known as throwers, are used to first take out two guards, followed by the remaining 20 soldiers. The bones are set up in two parallel rows 10 m apart, so this is definitely a game of accuracy. It sounds simple, but controlling bones that are wider and heavier at the bottom than at the top takes some practice. Give it a try!

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Twister was invented in 1966 and was the first game that required people to use their bodies as playing pieces. That, combined with the fact men and women played it together, sent Milton Bradley’s competitors into an ethical uproar accusing the company of selling “sex in a box.”

Today, Twister is retro-sheik. And like everything else vintage, is re-asserting itself in popular culture.

Hook and ring games can be traced back to the late 12th and early 13th centuries in England. Most of us, however, trace them back to carnivals and hot summer days. Thanks to their popularity, today’s ring toss games come in countless variations, most of which take their inspiration from the less-mobile and harder-to-toss game, horseshoes.

Not all summer fun has to be frenetic. For days when only the shade of a tree will do, don’t forget a blanket and a board game. For handy storage and quick cleanup, designate a tightsealing, plastic tote as your outdoor “tickle truck.”

You’ll be less likely to lose board game pieces and more likely to play often.

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trend spotting

An insider’s look at what’s hot for 2011

Flare Necessities

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Fall in love with trumpet-shaped flowers There’s something unmistakably alluring about trumpetshaped flowers. Maybe it’s the inviting way they flare open to greet us or, conversely, the way they narrow as if guarding a secret. Whatever the reason, trumpet-shaped flowers are more popular than ever. From the small and delicate to the dramatic and large, here’s a look at a few of our favourites.

Miniature Fuchsia ‘Rocky’

Mandevilla ‘Pretty Crimson’

Bells of Ireland

Miniature fuchsias have a showy yet elegant appeal, and ‘Rocky’ is no exception. Its petite dangling blooms are pink and purple and nothing short of bold. Showcase this profusely blooming annual in a hanging basket, or add it to a mixed planter. Provide a sheltered location out of the wind and hot sun. Height: 30–50 cm; trails: 30–60 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

Few red flowers have this depth of colour and vibrancy. Mandevillas in the Sun Parasol series are known for their compact, bushy forms. For optimum performance, grow them in a hot location. Can be overwintered indoors near a sunny window.

Height: up to 1.2 m; width: 20–30 cm.

Sun.

Need a spectacular accent plant for flowerbeds and fresh arrangements?

Look no further. The lush-green spires of this annual will bring out the best in almost any plant.

Technically, the flowers of bells of Ireland are the tiny white blooms inside the bells, which would often go unnoticed if not for their subtle, fresh fragrance. Height: 60 cm; spacing: 20–30 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.

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trend spotting

An insider’s look at what’s hot for 2011

Honeysuckle ‘Dropmore Scarlet’

If you want to attract hummingbirds to your yard, this vine’s bright-scarlet and trumpet-shaped flowers are bound to get it done. An ideal variety for northern gardeners who require hardiness. Lonicera x brownii produces clusters of blooms from June to September.

Grows well on an arbour or a trellis; don’t cut back in the fall. Height: 3–4 m; width: 1–2 m. Sun to p.m. sun.

Hosta

Cup & Saucer Vine

There’s something truly fantastic about a plant that can be both lime green and understated. Although they’re known for their dynamic foliage, hostas also produce lily-like flowers that should not go unnoticed. These shade lovers will tolerate more sun if given more moisture. Height: 15–100 cm; width: 15–150 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.

This fast-growing annual is best known for its large cup-shapes flowers and the green calyxes that form its saucer. The papery buds emerge a light green shade and mature to a dark purple. Foliage and tendrils are shaded purple. Blooms summer to frost. Wind tolerant but will scorch in extremely hot sun. Height: up to 3 m; spacing: 25–30 cm. Sun.

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Foxglove

It’s hard to look at a foxglove and not be impressed by the hand-painted-look of their spotted flowers.

They are most common in shades of carmine, pink, white or cream. All parts of Digitalis purpurea are poisonous. Clump-forming biennial; allow to self-sow for more plants. Likes moist soil. Height: 60–90 cm; width: 30–40 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.

Brugmansia

If you like your trumpets big, brugmansia’s the flower for you. This massive annual has enormous yellow flowers that reach 30 cm in length. During the night, their sweet fragrance perfumes the air, so plant them near an open window or beside your deck. Height: 1–2 m. Sun. enjoygardening 55

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second look

Dislocations Reconstructing memory

Images by Michelle Lavoie, visual artist

When the digital and traditional forms of printmaking merge, they create a surface both tangible and ethereal.

That’s how visual artist Michelle Lavoie describes this sampling of images inspired by her childhood home, a small parcel of land in Ennismore, just outside of Peterborough, Ontario.

“When creating these prints, I begin with my photography, which I then digitally manipulate. Doing this puts the image through a second technological filter.

Digital manipulation is often used to clean and sharpen an image. I use it to infuse the image with a fluid, painterly quality, trying to build a sense of tactility, physicality and surface.

“When I’ve taken the print as far as I can toward tactility within the computer, I print the image with an archival fineart printer. Then I attempt to fuse digital

and traditional printmaking media, such as etching, lithography, screen and woodblock. The traditional forms of printmaking are physical, tangible media.

The artist’s movement, energy, time, effort and intention push and sculpt the media. The result is a physical trace, an impression embossed and imprinted into the surface of the paper. When the digital and traditional forms of printmaking merge, they create a surface both tangible and ethereal. One that posits the image in a place both real and dream.”

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second look

Sta n d i ng on t he se shady banks, w h er e ce dar boughs be nd t o t ouch t he e ar th, I s ee t hrough my chi l d e ye s, N o w, for t y ye ars l at e r, th i s s a me , sof t l oam unde r f oot .

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He r e , t h e s o ft m u r m u r o f wat e r s lo w ly ma k es i ts w a y. I t n u dge s as id e le a f a n d tw i g a n d c u r l s around rock.

In t h e d is ta n c e, b u l r u s h es me l t t oge t he r in t h e n oo n d a y s u n .

A s o lit ar y R ed - w i n g ed B l a c k bi rd cal l s.

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second look

Th e l a s t few notes linger in the air.

Th i s s o ng I know so well, m y m emory sl i ps t hrough t i me , l i k e a fl a t st one ski ps across w at e r.

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I s t a n d u p o n th es e s a m e banks.

I b r e a t h e i n th e B l a c k b i r d ’ s song, t h e f r a g r a n c e o f c ed a r, t h e ligh t d a n c i n g u p o n w a te r.

I b r e a t h e o u t, c o n ten t, K n o win g I a m p a r t o f i t a l l . —Michelle Lavoie, October 2010

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Michelle Lavoie resides in Edmonton, Alberta. Her art practice involves printmaking, drawing, and text and image installations.

Her work has shown in numerous local and international exhibitions and is featured in the collections of the Print and Drawing Council of Canada, TD Canada Trust, TAMA Art University Tokyo, Japan and the Alberta Foundation for the Arts.

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floral design

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Floral Sushi

Tu r n h e a d s w i t h u n f o r g e t t a b le f lo ra l de sig ns Sometimes the ordinary just won’t do.

You love the roses on your dining room table and the bud vase on your desk, but this time, you’ve got a craving for extraordinary. Well look no further. These sushi inspired designs are just what you’re looking for. Playful yet elegant. Traditional yet avant-garde. Everything you need to wet an appetite for fabulous. Take a look.

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floral design Who says you need flowers in a floral design? This noodle bowl certainly isn’t missing a thing. A handful of curly willow, another of lily grass and this design was all but done. To show off a little, we braided palm leaves to look like shrimp and sprinkled them with sunshine-coloured gravel.

Pretty darn clever if we do say so ourselves!

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Maki sushi, anyone? Our floral design team outdid themselves with these elegant bundles of flowers and foliage. White hydrangeas paired with jade trachellium and red-tipped jubilee crown leucadendron fill the centres of these bundles that will have you looking twice. To create the look of nori, we rolled the flower bundles in green-and-white speckled leaves of floral beauty, which we accented with bands of spider plant. A pile of pink tulip petals doubling as pickled ginger completes the look and adds to the whimsical elegance. (Above)

White carnations folded over and bundled snugly with floral wire create the fluffy pillows of rice needed for this look. Tulip petals masquerading as salmon top each carnation and give this nigiri sushi its blushing trademark. To finish the look, we added a sprinkling of chopped scallions snipped from a leftover stalk of snake grass. Effortless beauty at its best. (Above) enjoygardening enjoygardening 65

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floral design

Cone sushi is rolled in the hand, and so were these floral doppelgangers. A glossy galax leaf becomes the nori for this cone, which holds a few sprigs of berzillia berries and a shrimp-inspired throat from a cymbidium orchid. As easy to make as real temaki sushi is to eat. (Below)

A collection of beautiful red soup bowls inspired this design. To create the look of soup, we simply filled each bowl with water and added a golf ball-sized piece of floral foam into which we inserted flowers. Playing the role of noodle—lily grass, of course.

Lastly, a herb-like garnish of maidenhair fern was added, completing the look and complementing the red bowl. (Right)

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These vegetable bundles couldn’t be easier to make. Simply snip nine or ten pieces of snake grass at various lengths, bundle them up, add a few sprigs of Buddhist pine and tie with ti leaf.

A shiny red floral pin holds it all in place and adds a pop of sparkling colour. (Right) enjoygardening enjoygardening 67

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recipes

Midnight Snacking Food stylist, Chef Alexei Boldireff

Recipes that put the Mmm in midnight

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Sometimes you just have to give in and indulge a little. So make it worth the workout!

Creamy gourmet mac & cheese, an omelette stuffed with feta and asparagus, or how ’bout a steaming cup of Amaretto and white-chocolate milk? Whether you’re yearning for something savoury or sweet, there’s a recipe here to put the Mmm in your midnight.

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recipes

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M i d ni g h t Ma c & Ch ees e Had a long, hard day? This gourmet mac and cheese will have you smiling in no time.

(Serves four) 375 mL (11/2 cups) dried macaroni pasta

1.

8 slices of bacon, 1 cm (1/2") dice

2.

1/2

yellow onion, 1 cm (1/2") dice

3.

30 mL (2 tbsp.) white wine 375 mL (11/2 cups) heavy cream 5 mL (1 tsp.) hot sauce 30 mL (2 tbsp.) Worcestershire sauce 250 mL (1 cup) old cheddar, shredded Salt and pepper to taste Lemon juice to taste

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

In a large, deep pan, cook bacon over medium heat until fat is rendered.

Add the diced onion and cook until transparent but not brown. Add the wine, and scrape all the caramelized bits from the bottom of the pan.

Add the cream, hot sauce and Worcestershire to the pan, and bring to a simmer.

Drop the pasta in the boiling water, and cook as per package instructions.

Season the sauce with salt, pepper and a splash of lemon juice.

When pasta is cooked, strain and add to sauce along with the cheddar cheese.

Stir until well combined.

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recipes

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Asparagus & F eta O me l e t t e This is one grown-up omelette.

And just the right fix for a salt craving.

(Serves one or two) 3 large eggs 15 mL (1 tbsp.) 2% milk 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 125 mL (1/2 cup) cooked asparagus, chopped into 2.5 cm (1") pieces 125 mL (1/2 cup) feta cheese, crumbled Salt and pepper to taste

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

Into a medium bowl, crack 3 eggs and add milk, salt and pepper. Whisk well.

Warm a non-stick pan on medium-high heat. Add butter and swirl to coat.

Add the egg mixture and, using a wooden spoon, push the edges towards the middle of the pan.

Shake the pan constantly to ensure the egg does not stick.

Cover and allow to cook for one minute.

Uncover and add asparagus and feta cheese to the middle of the omelette.

Fold half of the omelette over the filling, and allow to cook, covered, for 1–2 minutes.

Tip onto a plate and enjoy!

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recipes

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S p i c e d M aple Popcorn When butter and salt just won’t do, this flavourful popcorn is guaranteed to hit the spot!

(Serves two) 125 mL (1/2 cup) unpopped kettle corn 125 mL (1/2 cup) vegetable oil 1 mL (1/4 tsp) ground cinnamon 1 mL (1/4 tsp) teaspoon nutmeg Pinch ground cayenne 60 mL (1/4 cup) butter 60 mL (1/4 cup) maple syrup Pinch of salt

1. In a small saucepan, warm the cinnamon, nutmeg and cayenne pepper.

2. Add the butter, and stir over medium heat until just melted.

3. Stir in the maple syrup, a pinch of salt, and set aside.

4. Place the oil and corn in a large pot, and cover with a tight lid.

5. Turn up the heat to medium high, and shake the pot until the corn begins popping.

6. Continue to lightly shake pot back and forth until you hear the corn stop popping.

7. Pour the spiced maple butter onto the corn, and toss to coat.

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recipes

Tr ipl e C ho c o l at e B ro w n ie C o o k ie s A chocolate lover's dream. Soft, chewy and sure to please.

(Makes 24) 125 mL (1/2 cup) salted butter 125 mL (1/2 cup) granulated sugar 75 mL (1/3 cup) brown sugar 7 mL (11/2 tsp.) vanilla extract 1 egg 250 mL (1cup) all purpose flour 75 mL (1/3 cup) cocoa powder 2 mL (11/2 tsp.) baking soda 5 mL (1 tsp.) salt 30 mL (2 tbsp.) homo milk 125 mL (1/2 cup) milk chocolate chunks 30 mL (2 tbsp.) chocolate chunks 30 mL (2 tbsp.) white chocolate chunks

1. Preheat oven to 190°C (375°F).

2. Sift together flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt.

3. In a mixer with a paddle (or in a bowl with a whisk), cream together sugars, butter, vanilla extract and milk.

4. Work in the eggs one at a time.

5. Fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients, and stir until just combined.

6. Add chocolate pieces, and stir lightly to mix.

7. Form batter into cookie balls, about 30 mL (2 tbsp.) each.

8. Bake cookies on parchment-lined baking sheet for 10–11 minutes.

Chef’s Note Cookie dough can be kept in the freezer for midnight fixes. Simply shape the dough into logs, wrap them in waxed paper, slip them in a freezer bag and then into the freezer.

To use, just cut the logs into 1 cm (1/2") slices, allow to rest 20 minutes and bake as directed in recipe.

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recipes

A m a r e t t o W h i t e-Chocolate Steamed Milk White chocolate chunks, milk smitten with Amaretto—insomnia’s never had it so good.

(Serves four) 1 L homo milk 60 mL (1/4 cup) white chocolate chunks 60 mL (1/4 cup) Amaretto Granulated sugar, as needed

1. In medium saucepan, bring milk to a simmer over high heat.

2. Add chocolate chunks, and whisk until melted and well dispersed.

3. Remove from heat, and stir in Amaretto.

4. Moisten the rim of your favourite coffee cup, and dip it in sugar.

5. Allow the milk to cool 2–3 minutes, and fill your cup. Enjoy!

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reconnect

Do Change Enrich

shift

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Community Shared Argriculture Closing the gap from farm to plate

how do you do

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Pecking Order with Linda Bodo Attract birds with this country cottage feeder

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Over a Barrel with Linda Bodo Collect rainwater in style

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shift

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Community Shared

Agriculture Closing the gap from farm to plate

There’s nothing better in summer than a vine-ripened tomato grown on your deck or a juicy peach at a fruit stand on your way through the Okanagan. We’ve all enjoyed the flavourful fruits and vegetables that only farm fresh can provide. We’ve supplemented our grocery store buys with trips to the farmers’ market. We’ve tried to eke out a crop of vegetables from our backyards. But what if we took it a step further and actually knew the land where our produce is grown, met the enterprising farmers and shared in the yield of the crops? Community-Supported Agriculture (CSA) has been cropping up across Canada, and this year, Alberta has more choice than ever when it comes to locally produced fare. enjoygardening 83

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shift

What’s It All About Community-Shared Agriculture is a simple concept and one so strikingly obvious you’ll soon be asking yourself why you haven’t been doing this all your life.

Think of it as buying futures in a crop.

The farmer asks for a year’s investment up front, then plants and tends a variety of crops, harvests and processes them, and finally delivers the bounty once a week to a pre-determined location for pick up.

Most farmers will ask that you help weed and harvest a few times over the summer as part of the deal. It all goes back to seeing where your food comes from and getting your hands dirty. Making a living off the land is hard work, and the farmers who run CSAs are passionate about what they do.

“I see what we do here as reconnecting people to their food and to the land,” says Yolande Stark, owner of Tipi Creek Farm, near Villeneuve, Alberta. “We are the instrument that allows that connection.”

Tipi Creek Farm is a CSA pioneer in Alberta, having operated since 1993. Over the years, Stark has coached other Alberta farmers in starting their own direct-toconsumer ventures, passing on what she has learned. Some have floundered and some have flourished. But the time seems ripe for CSAs to come into their own in Alberta.

“Things have really picked up the past couple of years. I have 2 or 3 e-mails a week asking about the CSA—and I have to turn most of them away!” Stark says.

The increased attention is likely due to our renewed interest in where our food comes from. Recent films such as Food, Inc. and books such as Michael Pollan’s In Defense of Food highlight just how complex our food sources have become. Couple that with recent food scares, such as contaminated baby formula from China and the lysteriosis outbreak brought on by tainted Maple Leaf Foods meat, and it’s no wonder we’re questioning how our food’s been handled and how many miles it’s travelled before it reaches our table.

“People are concerned about food security, and this farm provides that. They see for themselves what goes into the land and what comes out. They don’t have to worry about where their food comes from,” says Stark.

Aside from providing healthy food, Stark is adamant about maintaining a sense of community at Tipi Creek. Entire families are encouraged to help weed and harvest, and there’s even a small patch where children can dig and play. She also keeps the number of CSA members under 45. Any more, she says, and it becomes unwieldy. On harvest day in October, all members are invited to harvest whatever is left in the field and afterwards join in an open-air potluck. Friendships are formed naturally, and many CSA members visit outside of farm time.

It pays to do some research as each CSA is run a little differently, and you want to ensure a good fit. Sparrow’s Nest Organics is another Edmonton-area CSA, farmed by

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Graham Sparrow on a piece of land near Opal, Alberta. Sparrow spent many years at market gardens and CSAs in BC (where these have a lot more traction) and moved back home to Alberta to set up. Sparrow’s Nest Organics is certified organic and, this year, served 83 shares. Sparrow has also seen a spike in interest and has a long waiting list, but an expansion may be in the works.

Once you’ve decided to sign up, talk to the farmer and ask questions about what to expect. A working share can run from $600–$700 for 12 weeks of fresh produce grown with sustainable, lowimpact methods. Starting in spring, the farmer will send out a list of that year’s plantings, which will consist of standbys like carrots, broccoli, cabbage and onions, but may also include lesser-known veggies like kale, kohlrabi or garlic scapes. At the beginning of the season, be prepared for smaller batches containing lots of lettuce and radishes, and by the end of the season be prepared for a bounty of assorted root vegetables. Farmers also like to experiment every year with new things, so you may be getting purple carrots or orange cauliflower the year you sign up.

If a crop just doesn’t work, it won’t be repeated the following year. “We never compromise quality for the look,” says Sparrow.

Often, the complaint is too much produce rather than too little. Each share feeds a family of four or a pair of vegetarians, so if you’re not used to eating

a lot of vegetables, be prepared for a crash course in roughage. Consider whether you have time to prepare more fresh food each week and whether your family is open to experimenting with new tastes.

Tipi Creek Farm has a host of recipes on its website to help members make the best of a vegetable-rich diet. Members are encouraged to send it their own recipes as well. Either way, prepare for a cooking adventure.

Most often, adjusting to extra veggies is an easy change. With a fridge full of seasonal produce, you stop asking, “What should we have for dinner tonight?” and

Farmers also like to experiment every y ear with new things, so you may be getting purple carrots or orange cauliflower the year you sign up.

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shift Eating Seasonally

Wi t h a f r i d g e f u l l o f seasonal produce, y o u s to p a s k i n g , “What shoul d we h a v e fo r di nne r t oni ght ?” instead open the fridge and think, “What can I make with these ingredients?” Part of the guesswork is taken out of dinner.

Some members also plan to give away their excess to friends and family or the food bank. Families can also sign up together and plan to divide a share.

And just what kind of person signs up for a CSA? “That’s a good question,” says Sparrow. “It’s so diverse—it’s amazing.

This year we have a couple who are surgeons, and then we have people who are struggling artists. It just depends where people are at in terms of what they’ve heard about local food initiatives.

Once they figure it out, it seems to really be a match. You know, the farmers’ market is nice, but this gives that connection, a farm for people to come out to.”

If you’re ready to take the plunge, pick up the phone and talk to a farmer. It’s a relationship that’s bound to grow through the seasons.

Eating seasonally means eating food at its freshest. Most of the food we eat has travelled from various parts of the world for over a week to reach our grocery shelves. By that time, its sugars are turning into starches, and the food is losing taste and vitality. Eating what is produced close to home and in season is simply better for you.

Whether participating in a CSA or seeking out local produce, become familiar with what’s in season.

In the spring, the leaves and stalks are ready first. This may include lettuce, green onions, spinach and, of course, the quickgrowing radish.

In summer, fruit parts dominate and may include beans, beets, bok choy, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cucumbers, eggplant, garlic, kohlrabi, mushrooms, peas, peppers, potatoes, radish, scallions, squash, sweet corn, tomatoes and zucchini.

In fall, look for roots in items such as beets, carrots, cabbage, leeks, potatoes, kale, onions, potatoes, pumpkin, rutabaga, squash and turnips.

If some of these vegetables sound unfamiliar, have no fear. Here are a few things to keep in mind when preparing seasonal food: Cooking Greens (bok choy, spinach, chard, collards, beet greens, kale)

These hardy greens can be bitter or spicy when eaten raw. Cooking reduces bitterness, and whether they’re blanched, braised or sautéed, they’ll add depth to your dishes. Pair with garlic, lemon, hot chilies, olive oil and smoked meat (think spinach salad with bacon dressing).

Root Vegetables (potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, turnips, rutabagas, celery root, beets)

Roots are the energy storehouses of a plant, rich in sugars, starches and vitamins. Roasting root vegetables will

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bring out their sweet flavour, but these versatile veggies can also be grilled or made into chips, hashbrowns or gratin.

Combine unfamiliar root veggies with your potato dishes for a more complex flavour.

Cabbages (summer cabbage, red cabbage, green cabbage, savoy cabbage)

If you don’t have Eastern European roots, you may be at a loss as to how to use this vitamin-rich vegetable. Cabbage can be baked, braised, sauteed or stirfried just until tender. Complimentary herbs and spices for cabbage include celery seed, mustard seed, garlic, caraway seed, dill weed, black pepper and thyme. It pairs well with corned beef, bacon and sausage (think Reuben sandwiches).

Dining Locally

Another way to support Alberta’s farmers is by eating local when dining out.

4HE 'OVERNMENT OF !LBERTA $INE !LBERTA 3AVOUR 2EGIONAL &LAVOUR PROGRAM links producers and growers with chefs to bring you regional cuisine. The program’s website includes a province-wide listing of restaurants that serve up local fare: www.dinealberta.ca. To get you started, the following is a sample of their listings for restaurants in Edmonton, Alberta that use local ingredients all year round.

Culina Highlands 6509 112 Avenue, 780-477-2422 A friendly neighborhood cafe serving creative comfort food, eclectic wines and crafty spirits. Founded in 2008 by self-taught chef Cindy Lazarenko, Culina Highlands offers lunch, dinner and weekend brunches. The menus feature the finest local ingredients and are updated seasonally.

Red Ox Inn 9420 91 Street, 780-465-5727 This tiny gem of a restaurant is nestled in one of Edmonton’s oldest neighborhoods. The focus is on creative and eclectic cuisine and serving serious food in a casual atmosphere.

The Dish & the Runaway Spoon 3TONY 0LAIN 2OAD

780-488-6641 Casual neighbourhood bistro creates clever interpretations of familiar favourites featuring regional ingredients.

Jack’s Grill 5842 111 Street, 780-434-1113 A modern bistro serving regionally inspired cuisine in a warm, sophisticated environment.

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Pecking Order with Linda Bodo

Attract birds with this country cottage feeder

As dawn breaks, feathered friends congregate in the yard and rouse the household with an aria that swells into a full-blown concerto. Thankfully, admission to the performance is relatively “cheep.� Seeds, nuts and a handful of berries provide the musicians with well-deserved compensation and ensure repeat encores. The tubular design and small rests thwart squirrels and chipmunks, making this feeder a relaxing stopover for the birds. Modify the feeder by creating taller units with multiple perches and wait for the show to begin. Bravo!

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how do you do

Tip: Make several trail-mix cylinders, and store the extras in a cool, dry place. When the birds have finished one cylinder, simply transfer the shingled roof to a new cylinder.

Materials

Tools

One wire clothes hanger One cylindrical, non-ribbed, plastic container (about 10" high and 6" in diameter) to be used as a mould Masking tape Vegetable oil Trail mix (recipe provided below) One chopstick One plastic yogourt container (650 or 750 gm) Two tie wraps (4" long) Five large pine cones (to be deconstructed and used for shingles) Silicone adhesive Waterproof sealant

Needle–nose pliers Wire cutters Kitchen knife Scissors Awl Pruners or handsaw

Step by Step 1.

2.

11/2" paintbrush

3.

4.

Prepare the trail mix according to the recipe below, and set aside.

Cut off the coat hanger neck, and straighten the wire. Bend it at the midway point with needle-nose pliers to create a 90° angle. Working outwards from the bend, shape one half of the wire into a spiral. It will need to fit in the bottom of the mould for the trail-mix cylinder, so size the spiral according to the container’s diameter.

To create the trail-mix cylinder, thoroughly coat the interior of the mould with vegetable oil, and centre the spiral end of the wire in the bottom of it. Firmly pack the prepared trail mix inside, keeping the wire centred.

Secure the wire with masking tape to hold it in place, and allow the mixture to set for 12 hours.

Trail Mix Recipe 125 mL (1/2 cup) dried corn

1.

125 mL (1/2 cup) chopped almonds 125 mL (1/2 cup) dried cranberries 250 mL (1 cup) black oil sunflower seeds 250 mL (1 cup) unsalted peanuts 250 mL (1 cup) raisins

2.

Put the seeds, nuts and fruit into a mixing bowl.

Prepare gelatin according to package instructions. Then pour over dry ingredients and stir, making sure all ingredients are thoroughly coated.

2 packets unflavoured gelatin

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5.

6.

7.

8.

To remove the trail-mix cylinder from the mould, run a knife around the top edge of the container. Then, using pliers, grip the hanger and pull the cylinder from the mould.

To create a perch, insert a chopstick into the trail-mix at the centre point about an inch from the bottom.

To create the frame for the roof, cut the bottom off the yogourt container. Next, cut from the open bottom, up to—but not through—the rim. Make a second identical cut directly across from the first.

Cup and squeeze together the container sides to form a cone with a 1/4" opening at the top. Temporarily secure the cone in place with masking tape. Using an awl, puncture two sets of holes along each side of the seam where the plastic overlaps at the top third of the cone. Thread a tie wrap through each set of holes so that the ends are inside the cone, then twist together to secure. Remove tape.

9.

To create the shingles, Tip: If scales are difficult to pull cut 1/2" off the stem of off, cut through the core of the each pine cone using cone to loosen. pruners or a hand saw.

Next, remove the scales with needle–nose pliers. You have now created shingles for placing convex side against the frame, narrow ends at the top.

10. To begin shingling, place a bead of silicone adhesive on the bottom rim of the roof frame. Firmly press scales into place so they sit slightly below the rim.

Continue to apply adhesive and scales in concentric rings that overlap each previous row until the roof is covered. Let dry 24 hours, then paint with two or three coats of waterproof sealer. Follow product instructions for drying time.

11. Assemble the roof to the house by guiding the wire on the trail-mix cylinder through the opening at the top of the roof. Allow the roof to come to rest on the cylinder, then use pliers to create a loop at the end of the wire. Hang the feeder Tip: Once per year, replace in a sheltered area where any missing shingles and you can watch the birds reseal the roof. come to feed.

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how do you do

Over a

Barrel with Linda Bodo

Collect rainwater i n st yl e

Going green isn’t just about climate change and saving polar bears. It’s about doing your part to make a difference. You know you can’t change things overnight, but there’s a lot of satisfaction in doing your best. Collecting rainwater is a great way to start. It saves money, preserves natural resources and makes your garden smile. This project pairs wood slats with wine corks to create a stylish camouflage for a utilitarian rain barrel. The rain chain adds an elegance that no downspout can rival.

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how do you do

Materials

(to cover a 32" high rain barrel with a 17" diameter)

15 pieces cedar or pressuretreated wood (1" x 1" x 8')

Tools Chop saw or jigsaw 9/64"

wood drill bit

Drill or drill press

80 wine corks

Pliers

120-grit and 180-grit sandpaper

Wire cutters

1 L latex exterior paint (optional)

Metal drill bit (size to fit the pail handles)

One spray can textured paint, colour to match latex (optional) One spray can red-oxide primer (optional)

11/4" metal hole saw Small rotary grinder bit or Dremmel with grinder bit 1" paintbrush (optional)

Step by Step Rain Barrel

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Cut wood slats into 32" lengths. Approximately 3" in from each end of each slat, drill a centre hole.

Smooth the rough edges with 180-grit sandpaper.

If you wish to paint the slats, start with two coats of exterior latex paint. Let dry Tip: Spray several light four hours between coats. coats rather than one heavy coat to prevent Then apply several light coats unwanted drips. of textured spray paint. Let dry 12 hours.

Drill a hole through the side of each cork, making sure to centre the hole both vertically and horizontally.

Thread the 11-gauge wire through the top hole of a slat and then through a cork. Continue to thread slats and corks until you have enough length to surround the rain barrel. Pull enough wire through to make a hook at one end, and then cut the wire at the other end, allowing enough length to make another hook.

Repeat Step 4 to thread the corks through the bottom holes on the slats.

Wrap the wood and cork sleeve around the rain barrel, and link hooks together to hold in place.

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Rain Chain

1.

2.

3.

4.

Remove handles from the pails. Select a metal bit the same size as the predrilled handle holes. Then, near the bottom of each pail and a quarter turn away from each handle hole, drill a hole. These two holes will be used to link the pails together when the handles are reattached.

Next, use the hole saw to drill out the bottom of each pail. File down any rough edges with the grinder bit.

If painting your pails, sand with 120-grit paper to create a rough surface, and wipe off dust with a damp cloth. Spray pails and handles with several light coats of red-oxide primer until fully covered. Let dry 12 hours. Then apply several light coats of textured paint, ensuring primer is covered. Let dry 12 hours.

To thread pails together, push a handle through the holes you drilled at the bottom of the first pail (leave

5.

6.

the handle off the first pail; it will be reattached later). Once through, reattach the handles to the top of the second pail. Repeat, adding more pails until the rain chain is long enough to reach from your eaves trough to the top of the rain barrel.

To make the gutter attachment, cut the wire clothes hanger on the shoulders about 1" from either side of the neck. Squeeze the hanger hook with pliers to make a loop. Remove your down spout. With gutter attachment loop pointing downwards, expand the shoulder area so that it bridges the downspout hole and hangs in the eaves trough.

Take the handle from the first pail in your chain, slide it through the gutter attachment loop and then reattach the handle to the pail. Direct the bottom of the chain into the top opening of the rain barrel.

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the last word

Grasscycling with Jim Hole Sometimes environmental activism is best when sprinkled with a bit of inactivism. Or at least that seems the best stance when it comes to grasscycling, a.k.a. leaving grass clippings on the lawn rather than shipping them off to the landfill. On the farm where I grew up, no one ever entertained the idea of bagging grass clippings. We just cut the grass and let nature do the rest. It wasn’t until I visited friends and relatives in the city that I discovered that push mowers had bags that collected clippings that could be sent to the local landfill. At the time, I remember wondering why anyone would waste time collecting this stuff only to throw it out. Why not let the mower just scatter it back on the lawn?

Of course, the answers to those questions spoke as much to human insecurities as they did to proper horticultural practices. Clippings look messy, and the last thing any homeowner wanted was their neighbours thinking of them as slovenly. Besides, even if one wasn’t concerned about being ostracized by the neighborhood grass-clipping police, there was, at the very least, lawn health to be concerned about. That meant bagging up the clippings before they became grass-choking thatch.

But were (and are) these mess and thatch arguments valid, or are they just attitudes and misinformation that have taken on lives of their own?

The O horizon Let’s start with the thatch issue. Technically speaking, thatch is the O horizon of your soil. O stands for organic, referring to the fact that thatch is dry organic material, and horizon is just another name for layer. I don’t think that O horizon will become part of any homeowner’s lexicon, but it does help us remember that thatch is just partially decomposed plant material, and not something foreign. Unfortunately, the myth persists that clippings equal thatch and that all thatch is bad. In reality, a 1 to 2-cm layer of thatch is good for lawns because it helps conserve moisture without interfering with growth.

It’s only when thatch becomes excessively thick that it becomes a nuisance, preventing water penetration and slowly choking the grass. Clippings that are comprised

entirely of new, soft growth don’t contribute to thatch build up because they contain very little lignin, the stem tissue that microorganisms have a tough time digesting.

Only when the grass grows too tall does lignin become a problem. By mowing reasonably frequently, the ligninrich stems never rise above mower blade level where they can get cut and become problematic.

Also forgotten in the equation is that soil microorganisms are ultimately responsible for digesting thatch and that they can’t do their job unless the soil environment is conducive to their health. That means they need a deep, rich layer of slightly acidic topsoil to thrive and provide a good home base from which to launch an assault on thatch.

Fertilizers are never a replacement for good-quality topsoil, but they can help maintain lawn vigour over the years. Never use highly acidic fertilizers such as 16-20-0 that can drive the soil pH too low. Sparing use of highquality, slow-release fertilizers are always your best choice.

The mess factor Although my wife would wholeheartedly disagree, messy clippings are really only a short-term problem. Once the grass dries and works its way into the O horizon, it degrades fairly quickly. However, if the aesthetics really bother you, gather up the clippings and scatter them in your vegetable or perennial garden. They make a great mulch, provided they weren’t treated with weed killer.

If all this information still hasn’t convinced you not to bag your clippings, consider the economics: 1000 kg of fresh clippings contain about 7 kg of nitrogen, 1 kg of phosphate and 5 kg of potash. That’s a savings of about 25 percent on your annual fertilizer costs. Although many would argue that the environmental benefit of leaving grass clippings on the lawn is the most compelling reason of all, I wouldn’t short sell one really important fact: not bagging the lawn appeals to the couch potato inside many of us. At the end of a long, tiring, stinking-hot summer day, that’s as compelling a reason as any.

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Great Gardening Books from Hole’s

Lois Hole's Favorite Bulbs Better Choices, Better Gardens

By Lois Hole

Lois Hole’s Favorite Bulbs is both an ultimate get started guide for novice gardeners and a comprehensive reference for experienced bulb enthusiasts. Here you’ll find great advice on planting, growing and maintaining flowering bulbs.

You'll also find hundreds of tips on where and when to plant, advice on forcing and naturalizing and fascinating sidebars on bulb science and history. s X s 3OFTCOVER s #OLOUR s PAGES s )3".

Hole's Dictionary of Hardy Perennials The Buyer’s Guide for Professionals, Collectors & Gardeners Edited by Jim Hole

The perennial marketplace is larger than ever, with thousands of species and varieties from which to choose. Keeping track of perennials has become an awesome task—but the experts at Hole’s have a solution. Hole’s Dictionary of Hardy Perennials is the comprehensive guide, perfect for anyone who loves perennials, whether retailer, professional grower, breeder, collector, novice or veteran home gardener. s X s (ARDCOVER s COLOUR PHOTOS s PAGES s )3".

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with Linda Bodo

SPRING 2011

REPURPOSE, RECLAIM AND REDEFINE LEISURE TIME

enjoy more inspired diy projec ts

E N J OY GA R DE N I NG

Upcycle THE ART OF

S P R I N G 2011

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Linda Bodo breathes life into the ordinary as she upcycles everyday objects into inspired designs for the home.

Turn heads with unforgettable floral designs

s %ASY TO FOLLOW PROJECTS s #ONCISE STEP BY STEPS SUPPORTED BY colour photography s -ATERIALS LISTS TIMELINES HELPFUL TIPS and more Whether you have one hour or one WEEKEND THIS BOOK HAS A PROJECT TO l T YOU )NSPIRED ARTISTIC AND EASY The Art of Upcycle turns DIY into DIwise. s X s 3OFTCOVER s #OLOUR s PAGES s )3".

Order online at www.holesonline.com

By Phone 1-888-884-6537

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MIDNIGHT SNACKING Recipes that put the Mmm in midnight

Also by Linda Bodo

MICROGREENS Grow your own in 14 days S P R I N G I S S U E 2 011 $6.99

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SHADY BUSINESS Tips for getting your way with the shade

10-12-16 11:41 AM

enjoy

Great Gardening Books from Hole’s

Lois Hole's Favorite Bulbs Better Choices, Better Gardens

By Lois Hole

Lois Hole’s Favorite Bulbs is both an ultimate get started guide for novice gardeners and a comprehensive reference for experienced bulb enthusiasts. Here you’ll find great advice on planting, growing and maintaining flowering bulbs.

You'll also find hundreds of tips on where and when to plant, advice on forcing and naturalizing and fascinating sidebars on bulb science and history. s X s 3OFTCOVER s #OLOUR s PAGES s )3".

Hole's Dictionary of Hardy Perennials The Buyer’s Guide for Professionals, Collectors & Gardeners Edited by Jim Hole

The perennial marketplace is larger than ever, with thousands of species and varieties from which to choose. Keeping track of perennials has become an awesome task—but the experts at Hole’s have a solution. Hole’s Dictionary of Hardy Perennials is the comprehensive guide, perfect for anyone who loves perennials, whether retailer, professional grower, breeder, collector, novice or veteran home gardener. s X s (ARDCOVER s COLOUR PHOTOS s PAGES s )3".

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Ordering /RDER THESE AND OTHER (OLE S PUBLICATIONS ONLINE AT WWW HOLESONLINE COM s "Y 0HONE "Y &AX (OLE S s "ELLEROSE $RIVE 3T !LBERT !LBERTA s 4 . .

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