H
edonistic hydrangeas are in the midst of a style revolution. Many exciting new varieties are rebloomers, some are two-toned, new flower forms are appearing and shrubs are shrinking. This popular flowering shrub’s getting “aesthetic surgery”. Just like all the stars do.
Hydrangeas of every kind have always had a lot going for them. All make terrific cut flowers and many dry well, too. They’re easy to grow if planted in the right situations: full shade; dappled shade all day; or early morning/late afternoon or evening sun and shade for the rest of the day. They require ample, regular water and well-draining, well-amended soil.
This celebrity shrub looks great in a variety of situations. With their big, bold leaves and blousy blooms, they’re great planted singly. Yet they look sensational massed. And they can also hold their own planted in pots, tubs—any good-sized container really—on patios, porches and decks. The only critical thing you need to know is the correct way to prune each type. For those that bloom on new wood, prune in earliest spring while still dormant. For those blooming on old wood, you should prune right after flowering, removing up to one-third of the shrub’s branches to near the ground. The new growth that appears will bloom next year. As mentioned, there’s a new category, however: rebloomers. With these, you’ll need to prune as the flowers become spent, cutting the stem to the ground. New blooming growth will appear the same season as well as the following year. See the accompanying chart for how to prune each type.
Quick Guide to Pruning
Hydrangeas Blooms on OLD wood (Prune 1/3 of branches to ground after flowering) H. macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea) H. quercifolia (oakleaf hydrangea) H. serrata (mountain hydrangea)
Blooms on NEW wood
Little Lime
(Prune up to 1/3 of plant late during dormancy) H. arborescens (smoothleaf hydrangea) H. aspera H. paniculata (hardy hydrangea) SPRING/SUMMER 2015
Inspirations
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