BEERGUZZLER/FOOD A TRIO OF WINTER CLASSICS
ANCHOR BREWING OUR SPECIAL ALE 2012 The 38th edition of this Christmas ale is a dark ebony in the glass with a latte-colored head that collapses rather quickly. This brew has lots of spice on the nose with nutmeg and clove backed by piney hops and brown sugar. Big and bold on the palate, this beer’s fruitcake flavors are a mix of maple sugar, toffee, nut, plum, orange and clove. This pick is a little boozy on the finish and while not my style, it’s an American classic. SAMUEL SMITH’S WINTER WELCOME ALE 2012 This brew has a newpenny, copper-hued color topped by a two-finger, snow- white head that leaves a prominent lacing. The sweet aromas are reminiscent of sticky buns fresh from the oven with just a touch of floral hops. There’s a light, roasted element in this beer with a fruity background to the caramel malt flavors. This is a nice break from the hop-driven seasonals dominating the Northwest market.
—David Kirkpatrick
40 | DECEMBER 12–18, 2012 | BOISEweekly
DUTCH OVEN DEN AT BLUE MOOSE CAFE Country comfort food JOSH GROSS Dutch oven cuisine may celebrate the simplicity of cooking in the outdoors, but it’s not quite so simple to eat at the Dutch Oven Den, a catering venture currently serving dinners at Eagle’s Blue Moose Cafe. First off, it’s only open for dinner on weekends—and not even all weekends. A recent Saturday night meal was canceled Wayne Hoover mans the Dutch oven with wife Sandy at Eagle’s Blue Moose Cafe. because of a Boise State University football game. The Den will also be shut down if there aren’t enough reservations, something more adventurous, complete with chunks of and to the point. diners may not find out about until the last bell peppers and bacon for a hearty countryDiners got their choice of country-style second. On top of that, unlike most restauflavored medley. pork ribs or barbecue chicken served with rant experiences wherein diners show up That wasn’t the case, though, with the potatoes and salad, finished off with a small and choose what they would like to eat, the wedge of warm peach cobbler lackluster salad intended to give the meal some Dutch Oven Den serves only a color. It was little more than chopped iceberg topped with ice cream. few items at a time and delivlettuce garnished with slivers of red onion and The bone-free pork ribs ers them in one fell swoop at DUTCH OVEN DEN AT a choice of Italian or ranch dressings. had a lightly crispy exterior 7 p.m., like a cafeteria or a BLUE MOOSE CAFE Dessert was a peach cobbler that was without being charred or dried summer camp. 79 E. Aikens St., Eagle, warm and gooey enough that it could honout. They were served without It makes for a somewhat 208-939-3079 bluemoosecafeidaho.com estly be advertised as a little slice of heaven. complex sauces or rubs, letting unusual dining experience. The Dutch Oven Den at The Blue Moose the pork juices and flavors take On a recent Saturday eveCafe is not a culinary revolution. It’s just comcenter stage. The barbecued ning, the Blue Moose filled up fort food, plain and simple. But it could be just chicken had a nice tangy baste that leaned quickly with locals seeking chow as simple the thing for those seeking an uncomplicated and earnest as the log cabin-style decor of the sweet rather than spicy, but the white breast meal, provided they can get through the commeat was a little dried out from its time in the cafe. The food was prepared in Dutch ovens plications required to experience it at all. resting on large, half-barrel barbecues on the Dutch oven. A side heaping of potatoes was a little cafe’s front porch. Meat and potatoes; plain
FOOD/NEWS and chicken kabobs, along with more unusual items like mantu—beef dumplings topped with a yellow split pea sauce and yogurt—and bolani, Beef and bourbon are an all-American masculine dream team. And St. scallion turnovers served with a spicy salsa. Lawrence Gridiron, the food truck equivalent of Tom Selleck’s moustache, Tazah Kabob is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. and is pairing the two for the Beast and Bourbon pop-up dinner at Pengilly’s offers a lunch buffet for $8.99 on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m.Saloon Thursday, Dec. 20, from 6:30-8:30 p.m. 2:30 p.m. For more information, call 208-376-0333. “It’ll be $50 a person for the meal and the pairing—four courses plus And in other ethnic market news, Bosnia Market owners Dusanka and four drinks … small pours—$35 if you have an adverse reaction to bourErmin Kurtagic launched an expanded selection of wine last month, adding bon, but we reserve the right to make fun of you if you can’t handle your bargain bottles from the Pacific Northwest, bourbon,” said SLG owner Brian Garrett. Australia and Argentina to a selection of Garrett said the bourbon will be mostly imported European wines. According to top shelf, while the preliminary dinner Ermin, the wines were chosen for their afmenu includes bones and toast with fordable prices. lemon jelly and parsley paste, a beefed-up But the list also includes hard-to-find barley shot with beef chicharron and jerky imported options like a chocolate-flavored twist, beer brazen short ribs with SouthMoldovan wine and a Montenegrin chardonern grits and collard chips and a bourbon nay. The shelves in the restaurant space German chocolate beef cake served with include higher quality vino and imports from calf liver ice cream. Romania, Russia and Bulgaria. Reservations for the 36-seat dinner can Ermin added that he hopes to host a be made by calling 208-830-7030 or emailwine tasting of the BOEX offerings before ing brian@slgridiron.com. the end of December. And speaking of bringing the beef, a new Afghan restaurant, Tazah Kabob, opened —Tara Morgan and Andrew Crisp next door to the Kabul Market at 5755 W. Bosnia Express now offers a broader selection of vino. Overland Road. The joint serves beef, lamb
BOURBON AND BOSNIA
LAURIE PE ARMAN
SIERRA NEVADA CELEBRATION FRESH HOP ALE 2012 A very persistent, three-finger creme brulee-colored froth covers this vibrant amber brew. The aromas are a light but lovely mix of candied fruit and malt, with a healthy dose of citruslaced, resiny hops. This beer’s emphasis is on the fresh hops, but it’s in no way overwhelming. Delicious, enticingly smooth malt and soft citrus flavors chime in, making for an exceptional winter brew.
Restaurants get one chance to hit BW with their best shot. LAU R IE PEAR M AN
This week, we’re considering a few winter classics. Samuel Smith’s Brewery was established in Tadcaster, England in 1758 and is Yorkshire’s oldest brewery. California’s Anchor is a pioneer in the craft brewing category. Its history dates back to the Gold Rush of 1849, but the modern era began in 1965 when Fritz Maytag acquired a majority interest. Sierra Nevada is a relative newbie, with the first Celebration Ale arriving in 1981.
FOOD/REVIEW
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