FOOD/NEWS FOOD IN THE NEWS Are foodies self-indulgent elitists? The debate has been simmering on the pages of major magazines and in the opinion columns of newspapers for the last couple months, drawing commentary from food heavyweights like Michael Pollan and Mark Schatzker. Well, now Eric Schlosser, author of Fast Food Nation, has weighed in. In The Washington Post, Schlosser makes the argument that foodie critics have gotten the elitism charge backward. Our current industrial food system, he notes, clearly demonstrates “how the few now rule the many.” “The wealthy will always eat well. It is the poor and working people who need a new, sustainable food system more than anyone else. They live in the most polluted neighborhoods. They are exposed to the worst toxic chemicals on the job. They are sold the unhealthiest foods and can least afford the medical problems that result. A food system based on poverty and exploitation will never be sustainable,” writes Schlosser. McDonald’s recently released a new line of burgers in Japan dubbed the “Big American 2” line. The calorie-laden burgers are named after four American cities/ states: Idaho, Texas, Manhattan and Miami. The Idaho burger breaks the scales at 713 calories and comes with a quarter-pound beef patty topped with hash browns, cheese, bacon, onions and a pepper-mustard sauce. The Manhattan features a beef patty, mozzarella and pastrami on an artisan bun. In other “artisanal” news, The Atlantic’s Jane Black recently derided the pork industry’s new slogan, “Pork: Be Inspired,” as an example of “the food industry’s desire to convey virtue—no matter how dubious.” That piece inspired chow. com writer Joyce Slaton to look into other examples of fake artisanal claims, including Wendy’s “natural-cut fries with sea salt” and Tostitos scouring sun-dappled fields with hand-baskets for the freshest ingredients. For links to these articles visit nwfoodnews.com.
FOOD/BEER GUZZLER CANNED BREWS FOR SPRING We’re more than six weeks into spring, which means it’s time to get out on the trail or on the river, right? Sure it feels more like the tail end of fall, but those are leaves on the trees, and despite the damp and the cold, warm weather has to be right around the corner. Canned beer is the format of choice for out-and-about consumption, so here are three more new arrivals to the Treasure Valley.
21ST AMENDMENT BITTER AMERICAN A bright and brassy pour, this beer has a respectable head and big, resiny hops dominate the nose backed by subtle orange and lime. There’s a nice hop bite on the palate, but it’s not nearly as aggressive as the aromas would suggest. Crisp and clean with smooth malt and bright citrus flavors, this is a beautifully balanced ale with intriguing hints of orange zest and herb.
21ST AMENDMENT BACK IN BLACK With the dark ebony color of a stout and the hop profile of an India Pale, black IPAs exhibit something of a split personality. The floral aromas here are a nice mix of citrus, hops and dried grass, with soft hits of resin and anise. Sweet, toasted malt and caramel color the palate, playing against a decent hop bitterness that tastes something like unsweetened licorice. Another worthy effort from this innovative brewery.
STELLA ARTOIS OK, this over-hyped Belgian entry is a marketing marvel, but it’s not one of the world’s greatest brews. That said, served well chilled on a hot summer day, it is an appealing, eminently sessionable choice. While I prefer it poured from the bottle—seems a bit livelier in that format—the can makes for an even fresher version. It offers lightly sweet malt and mild hops with a touch of grain and spice that go down smooth and easy. —David Kirkpatrick
—Tara Morgan
38 | MAY 4–10, 2011 | BOISEweekly
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