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46 April 28, 2011
65th Anniversary
Park Labrea News/Beverly Press
Canter’s 80 years of Pastrami on Rye and ‘Matzo’ More! by edwin folven
C
anter’s Deli on Fairfax Avenue is the kind of place where if you eat there once, you will become a lifelong customer. The food, history, vibrant atmosphere and friendly staff make Canter’s Deli one of the icons of Los Angeles. This year, Canter’s Deli is celebrating its 80th anniversary, after being founded in 1931 in Boyle Heights by Ben Canter and his brothers. The deli moved to Fairfax Avenue in 1948, and into its current location at 419 N. Fairfax Ave. in 1953. The deli is one of those places people remember from when they were children, and years later bring their children back for the same experience. It is not uncommon to see three or four generations of families sitting around one of the many tables, enjoying a corned beef or pastrami on rye, according to Jacqueline and Marc Canter, who are among an extended family that runs the deli today. It is also not uncommon to see some of the same people eating at the deli every day, Marc added. Canter’s closes only on Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur, and is a mainstay among the breakfast, lunch, dinner, and late-night crowds. “One thing is the atmosphere. We are open 24-hours, and we are dependable,” Marc said. “No matter what time of day, you can come here and get comfort food. The food is good, and you get a good feeling coming here. The corned beef and pastrami sandwiches are the most popular, and a lot of people like the Reuben. The matzo ball soup is also very popular.” Jacqueline and Marc Canter are among the third generation of the family carrying on the Canter’s tradition. Both can be found at the deli on most days, taking care of day-to-day operations. Marc is a “jack of all trades” who repairs equipment or tends to problems when they come up. Jacqueline takes care of the hiring and personnel matters, and is always working in the dining room seating customers and ensuring their meals are being served promptly. Both have longtime ties to the Fairfax District. Marc continues to live in the local area, while Jacqueline now calls Westwood home. A graduate of Fairfax High School,
Jacqueline is also committed to the neighborhood. As the founder and former president of the Fairfax Business Association, she has helped bring about improvements such as graffiti removal, sidewalk cleanup, tree trimming and trash removal. “It’s an ongoing process, keeping Fairfax clean and graffiti free and looking nice,” Jacqueline Canter said. “I take it upon myself to take care of the street and make it look presentable. It’s part of what I do every single day. I walk the street and look for graffiti, look for trash and then call the graffiti removal companies or the city to make sure it is cleaned up.” While many local residents visit Canter’s regularly, the deli is also a destination for tourists and visitors from the East Coast. Marc said many people tell him Canter’s is the only place in town to get real East Coast-style deli food. “We get a lot of people who get off the plane and the first place they come is to Canter’s,” Marc said. “When people come in from out of town, you take them to Disneyland, or you take them to Venice Beach, and then you take them to Canter’s.” Not only is Canter’s a favorite of visitors and L.A. residents, it has been and still is a destination for celebrities. Over the years, some of Hollywood’s elite have dined at the deli, including Marilyn Monroe, Cary Grant, Gregory Peck, Elizabeth Taylor and Danny Thomas. Some of the legends of rock ‘n’ roll who have enjoyed the food include Elvis Presley, Mick Jagger, and the members of The Beatles. Stars who have visited recently include Johnny Depp, Seth Rogan and Leonardo Di Caprio. KROQ DJ Rodney Bingenheimer has his own table that he frequently reserves. Slash, the guitarist from Guns N’
Roses, once worked at the restaurant and is a longtime friend of Marc. Marc said he has known Slash, whose real name is Saul Hudson, since the 5th grade when they both attended 3rd Street Elementary School. Marc has written a book titled “Reckless Road: Guns N’ Roses”, which documents the band’s rise to popularity. The band members describe Marc as another “member of the band” because he meticulously documented the group during the 1980s on film, photo-
photo by Edwin Folven
Brother and sister, Marc and Jaqueline Canter, are third generation family members running the 24-hour deli on Fairfax Avenue.
graphs and recordings. “I was big rock ‘n’ roll fan when I was a teenager. We (Marc and Slash) were both into BMX bikes, and we shared a lot of the same interests,” Marc added. “Slash was always into drawing and was a great artist. Later, he started playing guitar, and you could tell there was something there. I saw a ‘Led Zeppelin’ in the making. I documented every single show they did in Los Angeles, approximately 50 gigs.” Marc’s book contains hundreds of photos, narratives, information on the band, and rare items such as backstage passes and concert flyers. While Guns N’ Roses was one of the major bands that is part of the Canter’s history, there are many notable others. The Kibitz Room, a lounge at Canter’s that opened in 1961, has featured many big name bands of today when they were in their formative years, like the Red Hot Chili Peppers and The Wallflowers, which was once the house band at the Kibitz Room. Jacqueline said the bar remains a popular place for young people who come to Canter’s to enjoy new music. Much about Canter’s has stayed the same over the years, but Jacqueline and Marc said they are always keeping an eye on the future. Canter’s now has a food
truck that visits other neighborhoods, and the deli has a satellite location at the Treasure Island Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas. Jacqueline said one of her biggest passions is helping others, and said donations are made daily to social service organizations such as the SOVA food pantry. She added that she routinely helps with functions at Fairfax High, Hancock Park Elementary and other local schools. She said one of the best things about the local area is that it has remained much as it was over the past five decades. “Fairfax is very much like New York, like The Village, and what makes Fairfax unique is you have the old and the new. You have tattoo parlors and skateboard shops, and then you have Canter’s. Fairfax is very eclectic.” Marc said they are beginning plans for the 80th anniversary, and a celebration will be held in July. The deli’s classic sandwiches will be sold for 80 cents. Customers can count on coming to Canter’s for the same experience they had on their first visit for years to come. “Our goal is to keep it as good as it has been, and to keep improving, because there are always ways to improve,” Marc added.