Elizabeth Roberts - The Future of Male Grooming

FIG 1, BARBER BRUSH, 2012.

Elizabeth Roberts/N0313383 Research Report/FASH30001 Word Count: 6,967

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CONTENTS

Introduction 4-5

questionnaire visualised 46-47

Introducing the questions the

Visualisation of what men really want.

report will explore.

methodology 6-7

Explaining creative research

case study - the kooples 48-49

methods.

context 8-11

4-5

6-7

8-11

12-19

The rebellious French brand taking hold of London.

Iconic men - 9 Current cultural movements - 11

strategic outcome 50-55

market 12-19

Key findings & the product - 51 The active ingredients - 52 Lexical choice, bottle design, placement & price - 55

Overview on the market - 13 Key players in the market - 15 The premium sector - 16 Micro trends - 19

conclusion 56-57

case study - L’oreal biotherm homme 20

Recognising the brands origins, its strengths and weaknesses.

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24-25

26-31

A very good place to end!

references 58-59

case study - tagra technology 23

All the quotes.

Explores the new innovative skincare technology which is creating creative opportunities.

bibliography 60-61

Books, websites, articles, blogs, film, magazines & interviews.

gender 24-25

Gender issues surrounding the modern man and how this links to grooming.

32-45

46-47

48-49

beard 26-31

All the images.

Appendix 64-76

Where did the beard come from? - 28 Why is it back? - 29 Where is it being seen? - 30 How does this effect the market? - 31

One - Patrick Grant interview - 64-65 Two - Joely Walker interview - 66 Three - Jonathan Pryce interview - 67 Four - Steve Wrighty interview - 67 Five - Tom Chapuis interview - 68 Six - Male public questionnaire - 68/70 Seven-Tracking opinion formers- 71/72 Eight - Consumer profile - 73 Nine - Tutorial sheets - 74/75 Ten - Ethics checklist - 76

consumer 32- 45

The ‘style maker’ - 33 Consumer profiles - 34/41 Buying behaviour - 42 Product testing & tracking - 43 What do they want? - 44

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list of illustrations 62-63

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Expectations of how today’s modern man should present himself are high, there are no longer any excuses.

The social and cultural ideals surrounding masculinity are continuing to evolve and change; and men can no longer shy away from today’s approach to male grooming. With the zeitgeist bringing to focus cult programmes such as ITV2’s The Only Way Is Essex it has ‘not only put fake tan and big hair on the grooming agenda for women, but it has brought men’s beauty routines into the spotlight as well.’ (Costa, 2011: Online). The media is at its most powerful and it will only continue.

Mass media has proven to be a truly persuasive tool in shaping the nations ideals on image. The male form is now just as much a victim to this as its female counterpart; with the ‘perfect’ male image used continuously throughout television, advertising and film. This exposure has brought awareness of an individuals appearance to the forefront of a mans mind, encouraging him to improve himself and increase self-esteem. One of the platforms on which to do this is through the use of grooming products. ‘Men enjoy the fact that feeling more confident helps them achieve personal goals such as career progression or improved social relationships.’ (Beresford 2010: Online), and if looking good now links directly to success, what man would not re-evaluate how they present themselves?

Even the face of the high street has changed for good. Once Boots was known as the much-loved stomping ground for the women of Britain, offering a plethora of products for all their health and cosmetic needs. And yet even this overtly feminine environment is offering aisles of products dedicated to the modern man and the kind of products that fill his half of the bathroom cabinet. It is near impossible for him to ignore that taking care of his image should be just important as say, cleaning his teeth.

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This shift suggests changes in attitudes towards gender where ‘men are definitely more aware of the way they look but are less concerned with gender’ (Davies, 2008: 9) The figures speak for itself and ‘the men’s market is continuing to grow at twice the rate of the women’s market in the UK as men invest more heavily in and place greater importance on grooming’ (L’Oreal, 2010, Online).

The ‘metrosexual’ man was a term first coined in 1994 by the English journalist Mark Simpson. Moving rapidly into the mainstream, David Beckham was considered the poster boy for all men that were openly enjoying the world of fashion, beauty and grooming products. However, the term metrosexual may have passed its sell by date, feminine characteristics such as shopping and looking after your skin are no longer activities linked to metrosexual men, but activities that have been readily adopted by many modern men in the UK. It has been said in the past few years that the era of the metrosexual is dead, and emerging from this is the ‘retrosexual’ male, or, the return of the real man. This does not mean that men are ditching the moisturiser and returning to their cave man state, but are able to merge their feminine side with traditional masculine qualities, ‘Throughout history, the very concept of the masculine ideal has been redefined countless times.’ (Flocker, 2003: 12), and this is just another step in the evolution of the man, ‘unashamedly incorporating personal grooming as a sign of pride and confidence.’ (L’Oreal, 2010: Online).

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This report will explore and challenge the male grooming market, specifically skincare. Firstly looking at the market history and how it has developed, pin pointing key players within the field, and what they are doing to successfully capture the male consumer. The issue of gender will be touched upon as this still shadows all decisions made in the male grooming market. Remembering that the men’s market is distinctly different in terms of their needs from the women’s; it will be bringing to light the real needs of today’s retrosexual British man, through current trends and creative research methods. Essentially, aiming to discover what is in store for the future of male grooming and if an innovative product can capitalise on emerging gaps in the market.

FIG 2, LEANING SMOKING PORTRAIT, 1978.

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FIG 3, RAZOR BLADES, 2012.

METHODOLOGY

To secure an accurate picture of the male grooming market and the consumer the research needs to be concise and from a trusted variety of sources. The main goal for primary research is for it to be collected using creative research methods. Creativity is the key to gaining honest and interesting insight into current movements within the grooming market and the opinions of the British man.

Secondary research is a collection of information from books, journals, trend and market reports, online articles and magazine and newspaper articles. Aiming to be succinct and to the point in revealing the opinions of those who matter, and the trends and movements that will lead to a strategic outcome.

It is very important to listen to what information is found via research, even if this means adapting and changing initial ideas, it will ensure that the outcome is honest and accurate and is in line with what the male consumer wants.

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INDUSTRY INTERVIEWS & CONSUMER RESEARCH

THE PUBLIC Who? A random sample of 36 male participants.

PATRICK GRANT Who? Director of Saville Row tailors Norton & Sons, and founder of menswear label E. Tautz.

JONATHAN PRYCE Who? Award winning photographer and author of the book and blog ‘100 Beards 100 Days’

How? 20 minute phonecall When? 10th December 2012 at 11:00am.

Why? As a person within the fashion industry, Patrick has insight into trends and ongoing movements before they hit the mainstream, and male grooming is also dictated by fashion and the key players within this field. With a keen interest in male grooming, and particularly well know for his facial hair, Patrick is an important person to gain his opinion on current shifts in men sporting a more rugged look.

Successful?

Speaking to Patrick Grant was incredibly helpeful. Not only was he friendly and open. He gave detailed answers into men’s vconsumer behaviour and the direction he predicts the male grooming market will go in the future, giving examples of brands and people who have played a part.

(See Appendix 1)

How? One question via email.

When? 6th December 2012 at 21:30pm

JOELY WALKER Who? ELLE Beauty Editor

Magazine’s

How? Five questions via email.

When? 29th Novemeber 2012 at 14:00pm Why? Although not working directly in men’s grooming, as a beauty editor Joely has a well of knowledge and experience in the beauty sector.

The questions asked specifically searched for information to gage where the male grooming market was heading and if it was influenced by the female market.

Successful? Through the responses to the questions it was identified that men are taking a keen interest in investing in their appearance.

However, the move to cosmetics for men is just a step too far, even for the modern man.

Why? Although the beard has been a part of the masculine image for 100’s of years, it was important to secure a solid knowledge on what is happening at this very moment in time. And as this is what Jonathan has identified in 2012, he could give an opinion that is ‘of the time’ about where the beard is heading next.

Successful? Speaking to Jonathan confirmed all previous thoughts that the beard has longevity and wont become till mainstream for another three years.

(See Appendix 3)

How? When first trying to gain information from the general male public on their view of male grooming, it was near impossible to get answers by approaching men in the street. Instead a poster was created with the powerful question ‘Are you man enough?’ challenging them to find out more. They could then scan the QR on the poster with their smartphones; which linked directly to an online and confidential Facebook Poll where they answered questions specifically on male skincare.

When? 15th November 2012 to 15th December 2012. The posters were placed in various masculine surroundings around Nottingham, some, where the participant would purposefully be alone. The chosen locations were, Saltwater Bar and Restaurant and JuJu cocktail bar men’s toilets, Fitness 4 Less Gym male changing rooms, and Brik Barbers.

Why? The purpose of the questionnaire is to pinpoint the specific problems a man wants a product to solve and the issues they have surrounding skincare.

Successful? The posters received great feedback and prompted the participants to answer in a personal and honest way. And through this, confirming ideas and assumptions made before the research.

TRACKING OPINION FORMERS Who? James McDonald, 36, English Language & Literature teacher & Paul Brown, 25, Construction Manager.

How? Each participant received a pack containing a questionnaire and three jars of unknown skin creams. At the start of the four weeks they were questioned at length about how they valued their appearance, current skin regimes and their opinion on emerging products in the male grooming market.

Testing three products over a period of three weeks, recording throughout how each product smelt, felt etc. Finally, ending in a repeat of the original questionnaire to record if their views had changed as a consequence of trying new products.

When? 1st December 2012 to 1st January 2013.

Why? To understand what characteristics a man enjoys from a skincare product and what boundaries lay within male skincare.

Succesful? The testing brought to light many issues men still have with some skincare products. However, in contrast, it also showed what the ‘modern man’ is after and how they want a product to feel and look on their skin.

(See Appendix 7)

(See appendix 6)

(See Appendix 2)

FIG 4, METHODOLOGY, 2013.

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FIG 5, MAIK EICHHORN, 2012.

context

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ICONIC MEN Throughout the ages, there has been a handful of men who have dared to be different in how they dress and groom

themselves. From actors, to athletes, these are the men that have helped changed the way men view masculinity today.

Clark Gable - 1930’s

One of the first influential male style icons, known for his slick black hair and razor thin moustache seen in the classic film ‘Gone with the Wind’. A true gentleman.

frank sinatra - 1950’s

Impeccably well dress and groomed, the swing musician Sinatra proved that men didn’t need an occasion to look good. And proved that elegance was not just a female characteristic.

Sharp yet effortless.

paul newman - 1960’s

Talented & handsome. Actor Paul Newman was the true ‘Mr Cool’. To contrast his pretty boy looks and piercing blue eyes, Newman took on a rugged look with ease.

steve mcqueen - 1960’s

Hollywood star Steve McQueen had smouldering good looks and raw sex appeal. Known for living hard and playing hard, he was not always a gentleman. But he did show men how a real man lives.

mick jagger - 1970’s

King of Rock ‘n’ Roll, The Rolling Stones’ Mick Jagger had the sexy look perfected. Dishevelled hair, and volumptous lips, he had the rebellious attitude that turned women weak at the knees.

david bowie - 1970’s

Style chameleon and King of Pop, David Bowie, changed the meaning of masculinity with his flamboyant and androgynous style, portrayed through his glam rock alter ego Ziggy Stardust. He pushed the boundaries on how men were expected to look.

tom ford - 1990’s

An icon for both the hetero and homosexual man, Tom Ford is the mastermind of style as creative director of Gucci. A sharp dresser who isn’t afraid to be a well groomed male.

david beckham - 2000’s

The poster boy for metrosexuality, David Beckham’s style has influenced countless amounts of British men.

Who copy man of his hairstyles and risky fashion choices. His style is continuing to mature and evolve in front of our eyes, but Beckham still remains very comfortable with his masculinity.

brad pitt - 2000’s

The one man every woman wants, and every man wants to be. The actor has been on our screens for a handful of decades and is only improving with age. His long hair and heavy beard has let many men embrace their inner grzzly.

mad men’s don draper - 2000’s

Although a fictional character, Don Draper has brought back the slick 60’s style back to the forefront of mens minds. Tailored outfits and perfectly combed hair, shows todays man that classic style is still timeless.

FIG 6, ICONIC MEN, 2013.

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FIG 7, LUCA CALVANI, 2004.

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Current Currentmovements movementsthat thathave haveinfluenced influencedideas ideassurrounding surroundingmasmascuculinity have been noticed cultural levels, low, mid andhigh. high.The linity have been noticed onon allall cultural levels, low, mid and following are examples of recent occurrences that may The following are examples of recent occurrences thathave may effected have how the British man views himself and his appearance, and as a result effected how the British man views himself and his appearance, have affected the grooming products he purchases. and as a result have affected the grooming products he purchases.

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the past few years, reality television has taken over our screens and it seems the generLOW Over al public are well and truly hypnotised by it. ITV’s The Only Way is Essex and MTV’s Geordie Shore have been the big hits, and one thing these shows have in common are groups of individuals who have an obsession in how they look. Fake boobs, tangerine tans, fake eyelashes and nails; there is nothing subtle about it. It seems anything superficial fits the bill for what is considered attractive. Although captivating to watch, these shows have also effected how some of us shop. Dubbed the ‘TOWIE effect’ the craze has resulted in ‘sales of false nails having soared 567 per cent, and fake eyelashes by 249 per cent.’ (Arthurs, 2011: Online) and the trend has continued into cosmetic surgery with ‘one in five female patients going for liposuction to ask for a stomach like Lucy Mecklenburgh’s, while Amy Childs is said to have inspired a 32 per cent rise in cheek implants.’(Mya, 2012: Online). But its not just the women who these shows are affecting, the super preened men seen on screen have become something of a talking point, ‘the strangely meticulous hair, the overdone tan, the teeth, the eyebrows – this is what we’ll be laughing at in 30 years’ time.’ (Brooker, 2012: Online). Although laughable, some men of the younger generation are starting to follow in their steps with ‘a small but growing band of men, sporting rich, dark-hued complexions’ (Castella, 2011: Online). It is easy to see that the majority of publicity these low culture programmes have received has been negative, with the male cast often being ridiculed for the unusual look they are sporting. However, even if the average British male does not want to look like this, we cannot ignore the effect that it has had ‘it has brought men’s beauty routines into the spotlight as well.’(Costa, 2011: Online) Men are now being reminded through these reality shows that even they should be taking care of how they look. Although, perhaps on a more subtle level. amount of men being shown in advertising, both television and print, is increasing mid The ‘Since the 1980s, men’s bodies have been used more for advertising, depicting a similarly idealised body image to that portrayed of women.’(Elliott 2005: Online) With the balance between the amount of men and women appearing in adverts starting to level out, what effect is this having on the men who see these adverts? ‘Ads sell more than products. They sell values, they sell images, they sell concepts of love and sexuality, of success and perhaps most important, of normalcy. To a great extent, they tell us who we are and who we should be.’ (Kilbourne, 2010: Film) but what the media is often portraying is that looking anything less than a Greek god is not good enough. Unrealistic expectations are being created as we are shown image after image of male models that essentially, do not represent the average British male. ‘Exposure to media images of the ideal male body - predominantly toned, muscled models - had a significant negative impact on the way that men felt about themselves’ (Gray, 2012: Online) Yet men are still striving to resemble these male pin ups, and one of the channels in which they are doing so is through grooming, in particular skincare.

Even high culture is changing the face of the modern man. And in 2012, The British Fashion ion event devoted just to men has been a huge step forward, and it hasn’t gone unnoticed.

‘No longer shoe horned into one condensed, hectic day, the newly established London menswear collections, over three glorious days now has the space to breathe, flourish and generate the buzz that will put its talented rising men’s fashion stars firmly on the international fashion map.’ (Richardson, 2012: Online). It feels that male fashion has finally been recognised and the designers are being given credit for the skills. It has also been said by London fashion event producer, Christopher Kinsey, that the creation of London Men’s Collection ‘also argues the point that British men are more interested in style, over fashion, which implies that British men are more intellectual in the way that they perceive and embrace clothes.’ (Kinsey, 2013) This recognises the men who are showing an increasing interest in designers, and are willing to spend the money on quality pieces; for example with ‘Harvey Nichols, the designer department store group, menswear is booming, with men spending on average 25% more each visit than their female counterparts, with forecasts for 2013 suggesting a further 20% increase’ (Kay, 2012: Online). This forecast shows how retail is evolving, and with beauty coming hand in hand with fashion it is inevitable that these sophisticatedly stylish men will be wanting a piece of this area as well.

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FIG 8, CULTURAL CONTEXTS, 2013.

high Council gave British men their very own fashion weekend. The emergence of a major fash-

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FIG 9, SOAP, 2012.

THE MA RK E T

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The male grooming market in the UK has seen great growth. And as a market that is only very young in comparison to the female market, it has far less saturation of products and plenty of room to grow. Currently ‘valued at £805 million in 2011, the men’s groom grooming market has grown by around 12% between 2006 and 2011’ and is forecasted to ‘grow by 8% between 2011 and 2016 to reach a val value of £869 million, as more men take an interest in their personal appearance and image’ (Mintel, 2011: Online). Driving its steady development are a range of factors, including shifting attitudes towards health among young men’ (WGSN, 2012: Online) Once, it was the ageing population of Britain who were expected to start taking care of their skin, but younger men are also feeling the pressure to remain youthful. This growth holds great promise for brands planning to launch products into the market. But no market can continue to grow with such speed, it will eventually plateau and diversify into specific areas.

But why cant a man just use a female product?

Its not so much that they can’t, however, ‘Male skin is 24% thick thicker than women’s, with a much more durable hydrolipidic film and dilated pores. Higher levels of testosterone cause these pores to become increasingly oily and protect the skin from the ageing process (Beauty RX Skincare, 2012: Online). Luckily for them, the ageing process may be put at bay for a while, but skincare is still essential. And men need skincare that is specifically designed for their skin and can protect them against factors such as shaving.

Currently, the mid priced market is well catered for with big beauty players such as Nivea and No.7 who were found in pri primary research to dominate in what products men use. Opportu Opportunities are now being created in the premium segment, and even though it is easy to assume that with the recession, spending in all premium categories is down, ‘people are still willing to invest in quality, regardless of recessionary pressure,’ (Nancholas, 2011: Online). This approach to purchasing resonates with the wellknown saying of ‘quality over quantity’, with consumers prefer preferring to use their money wisely, and with carefully considered purchases overtaking impulse buying. Buying into a product that is trusted and effective is much more satisfying than a rushed and ultimately disappointing product purchase. But can this also be said specifically for men’s skincare?

FIG 10, EXPOSED BRICK BATHROOM, 2013.

Change is inevitable, but in what direction is the grooming mar market moving? Focusing on the skincare segment, movement is currently high with ‘Launch activity in the men’s grooming market led by skincare, which accounted for almost four in ten new product launches in 2010’ (Mintel, 2011: Online). This high rush in new launches signifies that the male consumer is really starting to embrace a skincare regime as a daily part of life and new products are catering to the various needs of men, whether this is anti-ageing or moisturising. To underpin this, Mintel also added that, ‘Face creams and lotions are more likely to be used on a daily basis than razors/blades and shaving preparations, so even if men decide to skip shaving for a day, they are still keen to ensure their skin is moisturised.’ This speaks volume in how within the market, skincare is moving higher in men’s groom grooming priorities; and nods to the opportunities that are still available in this sector. With the skincare sector being at the forefront of shifts in attitudes towards male grooming, men are embracing the notion that although there are scientific differences between male and female skin, it isn’t just women who need to take care of their skin.

The head of beauty at Euromonitor, Irina Barbalova seems to agree and recently described the male grooming category as ‘seemingly recession-proof…some clear assumptions are safe to be made as to the changing buying habits and attitudes toward fashion and beauty among men, particularly in the premium segment.’ (Barbalova, 2012: Online) This really shows that the men with the greater spending power, are also those leading the pack with their approach to skincare, and is something premium brands could capitalise upon. And it appears it is not just existing beauty players that can benefit from this, but brands from other sectors as well, ‘Brands that invest in grooming products exclusively for the men’s market stand to intttcrease spending levels in this under-developed but fastgrowing sector’ (Costa, 2011: Online). With people having to cut back on certain aspects of their spending, a key trend that has been identified by Mintel is Premiumisation and Indulgence, which has ‘redefined how consumers expect and experience indulgence.’ Indulgence is now being gained through premium products that create a feeling of luxury for the consumer; when perhaps they do not have the financial means to purchase more expensive grooming experiences or services.

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who are the key players?

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UNILEVER

Strongly holding the No. 1 spot, Unilever is a truly powerful player with 40% value share of the market. Lynx, Dove for Men, Radox for Men, and Sure for Men all fall under the Unilever umbrella, and are key product ranges within the mainstream market. Heavy investment in advertising is the key to them holding their position with Mintel explaining that ‘Men brands accounted for over a third of total advertising expenditure in the men’s grooming market in 2010.’ (Mintel, 2012: Online) This way they are pushing their brands and products into the minds of Britain’s mainstream man. Lynx is potentially their strongest brand with diversification on the cards to branch out into other areas of male grooming, ‘making it the only brand the modern man will need in his bathroom cabinet.’ (Mintel, 2012: Online).

BEIERSDORF

Holding 9% of the market share, this is mainly due to Beiersdorf owning the Nivea for Men brand, which saw a rebrand in 2009. The creative packaging and scientific based products has ‘successfully distanced the Nivea for Men’s range from the women’s skincare line’ (Mintel, 2012: Online) which has resulted in them benefiting from men not being put off from a brand which may be associated with femininity. ‘With advertising and innovation help to send Nivea’s sales soaring’ (Mintel, 2012: Online), Nivea is now worth £66.4m, which is the biggest increase in market share of 2012. In 2011 Nivea launched a £1 million advertising campaign to support its Nivea for Men sensitive range; and was so successful it was awarded the prestigious GEMAS Effie MENA Award with the judging panevl proclaiming it as ‘a triumph of best practice market intelligence combined with unconventional creative execution.’ (GEMAS Effie MENA, 2012: Online).

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PROCTOR & GAMBLE

Sitting comfortably in second place, Procter & Gamble has 21% of the market share. Its key strength really sits with owning the UK’s No.1 shaving brand Gillette, in particular the product innovation that has been seen with this brand. However Gillette could come across problems in 2013, as ‘the men’s shaving segment continues to be a slave to trends.’ (Mintel, 2012: Online) as ‘over a half of men believe that they do not have to be clean shaven to look well-groomed, signaling the emergence of a more natural, rugged appearance.’ (Mintel, 2011: Online).

L’OREAL

L’Oreal is running just behind Beiersdorf with a 4% market share and under its umbrella sits L’Oreal Men Expert, Biotherm Homme, and L’Oreal Studio. With an extensive history in scientific knowledge, brand loyalty is no doubt its strength.

Similar to Gillette, L’Oreal Men Expert uses the power of celebrity to push its sales. Aligning the normal man with faces such as Patrick Dempsey, Gerard Butler, Eric Cantona and Hugh Laurie; they are not only giving the everyday man the boost of confidence he wants but is communicating well that they understand what goes on in the male mind. Essentially they are using incredibly effective products and combining these with clever packaging and powerful marketing campaigns.

FIG 11, BATHROOM CABINET, 2007.

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The French brand has in depth history and knowledge in its field, founded in 1954 with its Men’s range being launched in 2002. Its clean image has connotations of luxury and indulgence; with the red, white and blue colour scheme reflecting its heritage. With its highest price point at £50 they categorise their products into four sections; cleanse, shave, eye care, and moisturise. Describing themselves as ‘Expert advice: man your skin against the elements.’ (Clarins, 2012: Online).

STRENGTHS - Heritage, expertise, pure image.

WEAKNESSES - Perhaps lacks appeal for younger men with its safe image.

- Offers a lot of products, which can be overwhelming for the male consumer.

FIG 12, WILL CHALKER, 2010.

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As the world’s first allergy and dermatological tested skincare brand, Clinique offers something different to the consumer. A much more scientific driven experience than the sumptuous luxury others give. From the ‘lab coat’ wearing salespeople at department stores to the minimalistic packaging, Clinique has a strong image that is instantly recognised and unrivaled by other premium brands. With its men’s range called ‘Skin Supplies for Men’ its approach is practical and well directed, and the charcoal grey packaging remains a strong masculine look. However, these masculine attributes haven’t halted Clinique in releasing daring products. In late 2012 the male equivalent of their award winning women’s ‘Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector’ was created for men with the ‘Dark Spot Corrector’. A product that tackles a number of problems men suffer from including marks from sun damage, blemishes, scars, and shaving.

STRENGTHS - Recognisable visual identity and innovative products.

WEAKNESSES – Its ‘scientific’ background could stifle future creativity within its packaging and advertising.

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FIG 13, CLINIQUE MEN’S SUPPLIES, 2009.

Luxury skincare brand Lab Series sits safely underneath the powerful Estee Lauder umbrella.

The connotations of the word ‘lab’ perfectly describes the knowledge behind the brand and the understanding they have that men’s skin is very different to women’s. With key words such as ‘simple’ and ‘educational’ they strive to make skincare as easy and effective as possible. Innovation is also prominent in their products with the introduction of the Tinted BB Moisturiser, which is seen as a big step forward for men’s skincare with the introduction of a pigmented product. With this product, Lab Series have been described as ‘once again one step ahead of the game!’ (The Grooming Guru, 2012: Online).

STRENGTHS – Multifunctional and innovative products that make skincare regimes for men simple.

WEAKNESSES – A lot of choices in products that could overwhelm male consumers.

FIG 14, LAB SERIES MAX LS, 2011.

P L AY E R S I N T H E PREMIUM SECTOR 16

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m i c r o t r e n d s w i t h in the market MULTI FUNCTIONAL

SCIENTIFIC INNOVATION

NICHE & PREMIUM

The feeling of finding something undiscovered and new is something that everyone strives for ‘We get great joy learning new things but discovering something you think no one knows has extreme exhilaration and such strong and unique feeling’ (Mashinksy, 2011: Online), and this is the feeling that brands must create. As theorist Aristotle said ‘The secret of success is to know something nobody else knows’. Niche products that offer a feeling of premiumisation and indulgence are a micro trend predicted by Mintel and can offer consumers something that they may not gain from mid point products. ‘Consumers aren’t impressed with the lack of choice and there is now a shift back to developing more niche products.’ (Selwood, 2011: Online)

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MAN, I FEEL LIKE A WOMAN

DECLINE IN SHAVING

The shaving segment of the market has taken a battering in the past year as it ‘continues to be a slave to trends.’ And as a result it’s seen a ‘slowing down of sales in the razors/blades and shaving preparations sectors.’ (Mintel, 2012: Online) with a decline of 5% in value sales. This seems to be a result of men’s attitudes towards facial hair and what it means for them; ‘Men have entered a great period of exploration; they want to remain loyal to certain male values whilst playing with new interpretations of masculinity.’ (Tungate.

2008: 16) and facial hair is one of these interpretations. As this is the most noticeable trend within the market that looks like it could be here to stay, it will be explored in more depth later on in the report.

Predictions have been made in the past that men’s grooming will inevitably shift into cosmetics for men, with makeup ranges being created solely for men and easily available to the public. This is also what this report first set out to discover. And was a fair assumption to initially make, with men’s cosmetics brands such as Menaji offering ‘Urban Camouflage’ and Jean Paul Gaultier’s ‘Monsieur’ cosmetic line that launched in 2008, which included eyeliner, lip balm and even bronzer. However, such collections have never fully penetrated the surface of men’s awareness and according to Elle’s Beauty Editor, Joely Walker ‘there is still a stigma around men wearing makeup. Taking care of yourself and using skincare is one thing but I don’t think the male ego is ready for using makeup to enhance their appearance.’

(Walker, 2012). Similar hostility towards to the idea of men wearing makeup was found in other areas of primary research, in particular when the male public were questioned on the topic (See appendix 2). As a result of these findings, it was decided that the report shouldn’t focus on male makeup, but at other movements and sectors within the grooming market that are more realistic.

FIG 15, MICROTRENDS, 2013.

Men look for the scientific in products, as they like having the reliability of research and proven effectiveness; ‘men enjoy gadgets and features, and they like to see technological improvements, such as the new product development coming through in shaving’ (Euromonitor, 2012: Online). This scientific element helps to draw the line between something they are using for a purpose rather than for cosmetic or beauty reasons, which they tend to associatte with feminine products. Just as SPA Future Thinking research director Will Ullstein explains, ‘men see grooming products as addressing a need, while women may have a more recreational or experimental approach. When it comes to grooming products, men are very practical. They want something that solves, for example, dry skin.’ (Ullstein, 2011: Online) Innovation is the key to draw in male consumers, and it is a scientific background and effectiveness of the product that will turn these first time purchases into loyal customers who repeat purchase. As Mintel predicted ‘Innovation in the category will continue to grow, bringing fresh new products to the shelves.’ (Mintel, 2011: Online) This is true for all areas of product innovation, even sectors outside of male grooming, for example as Apple’s late CEO, Steve Jobs stated ‘Innovation distinguishes between a leader and a follower.’ (Jobs, 2009: Online).

‘Men are generally task-oriented creatures, and they like to see clear links between behaviour and outcome’ (Beresford, 2010: Online), and product technology now allows for a product to have a variety of functions. Nicole Tyrimou, Euromonitor’s Beauty and Care Analyst has specifically pin pointed multi-functional products to be the next thing men are after, explaining ‘men are looking to save time, they’re looking for multifunctional products that target specific problems, from spots to wrinkles to glow.’ (Tyrimou, 2012: Online) Convenience, affectivity and functionality do not sound like words you would instantly connect with a beauty product, and this is why men like it. It allows for great results with one quick application. ‘A prime example of this is the significant usage of two-in-one shampoos by men’ (Schueller, 2003: 17) allowing them to still get the results, without as many steps.

However, the idea of multi-functionality have developed far past the days of two-in-one products, and now any one product could offer up to 10 different functions. ‘As men are looking to save time, they’re looking for multifunctional products that target specific problems, from spots to wrinkles to glow.’ (Tyrimou, 2012: Online). A trend has been identified by Euromonitor, of ‘an increase in innovation in products to make them simpler and more easy to understand and use’. For men, this is ideal, however the balance needs to remain between how many problems the product can tackle and how effective it is for each product. If brands can find out what men really need, they could successfully tap into this trend.

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FIG 17, BIOTHERM HOMME, 2011.

case study

l’oreal biotherm homme THIS IS A MAN’s WORLD

L’Oreal Biotherm Homme is a premium skincare brand under the L’Oreal umbrella, and fits perfectly into L’Oreal’s philosophy of ‘Think global. Act local’. As a leading brand ‘existing in 70 countries its the unchallenged number one in Russia’ (L’Oreal Finance, 2011: Online). Biotherm Homme stemmed from the unique healing water of a hot spring in the French Pyrenees Mountains, where the active ingredient Thermal Plankton is abundant. From here the skincare line Biotherm was born and has gained the trust and respect of the L’Oreal customer. Biotherm Homme was introduced in 1985 as the first skincare range to have products targeted specifically at the skincare needs of men. And today they continue to release ‘new and innovative products with a focus on young, urban and physically active men, with high levels of Thermal Plankton still found in every Biotherm Homme product.’

They were the first brand to identify that male skin has different properties to women, and with research have created effective products that will target the specific characteristics of male skin. Hydrating male skin, they aim to anti-age, re-energise and smooth. With their strap line, ‘No fuss. No mess.’ (Biotherm, 2010: Online) they are number one in men’s premium skincare for a reason. L’Oreal’s Vice President, Alexander Keller explains that ‘Biotherm Homme is a brand that stands for performance, masculinity and authenticity’ (Keller, 2012: Online). They are trusted, effective, and give men what their skin needs without the frills. They say they offer ‘Just essential solutions for men’s skin. So you can get on with the more important stuff.’ (Biotherm, 2010: Online) As Mark Tungate said ‘For years men have wanted the same as women, products that are simple, effective and based on research”(Tungate, 2008: 31) and this is exactly what Biotherm Homme offers them.

FIG 16, PATRICK PETITJEAN, 2008.

Biotherm Homme is currently sold across the UK in Boots, so is easily available for any man. However, the price point crosses the line from mid to premium, with some of its key products priced at £46 and £29. This is the highest priced male skincare range currently in Boots and could be seen as very high for a mid range high street store. Biotherm Homme holds many characteristics that other brands strive to recreate; and it’s these strengths are the key to their success.

Key strengths

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FIG 18, BIOTHERM HOMME PRODUCTS, 2011.

- Holds authority in trusted & effective products specific to men’s skin.

- Active ingredients from a history in research.

- Casual and to the point language.

- Active lexical choices e.g. recharge, train, fight, quench.

- Masculine aesthetic running throughout the packaging and website.

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case study

tagra technology

Tagra is the technology that has been developed using microcapsules to deliver active ingredients directly to the skin. And has slowly but surely been adopted by some of the worlds largest skincare brands in their new products, for example Estee Lauders Day Wear Plus cream and the Lab Series BB Tinted Moisturiser in 2011. ‘This is the brave new world of skincare’ (Blackburn, 2007: Online).

So how does it work?

Minute capsules can contain active ingredients, such as vitamins, tea tree oil or retinol. These tiny capsules are then added to a cream or a gel and burst open when rubbed into skin, ensuring that their contents are delivered directly where they need to be.

‘Release on Demand Technology’ (Tagra, FIG 19, MICROENCAPSULATION TECHNOLOGY, 2012.

New developments in technology are aiding new skincare products to become increasingly effective. When a product has significant science to back it up, it usually gets results. And this is what men want, ‘Men enjoy gadgets and features, and they like to see technological improvements, such as the new product development coming through in skincare’ (Euromonitor, 2012: Online) This is where the differentiation can be often made between what men and women want from a product. When interviewing Patrick Grant, Director of Norton & Sons, he also pointed out that men ‘like to think that whatever they’re using is the best possible thing for that problem. They want to best science for each bit’ (Grant, 2012).

2012: Online). ‘The benefit of these capsules is that they enable manufacturers to use beneficial substances that might otherwise cause problems in a cream or gel’ (Harpaz, 2007: Online) This has been hugely successful with Retinol, ‘the antiaging ingredient, that still fights wrinkles better than anything else’ (Kitchens, 2012: Online) as it is very hard to stabilise within a cream. But using Tagra’s capsule technology it can successfully be put into a cream.

Pigment can also be captured within the microcapsules, which are released upon contact with the skin. The technology also allows for the pigment to match its shade specifically to its user, ‘for the first time Tagra enables skincare and colour cosmetics to works together’ (Cosmetic Science Technology, 2012: Online) whilst remaining as a white cream. This creates an opportunity within men’s skincare, which correlates to insight that was gained through the questionnaire in regards to men’s approach to pigmented skin products.

When asked ‘What are your views on today’s ‘modern man’ using a coloured face product, rather than just a clear moisturiser?’ the majority of men against the idea of a pigmented colour, and associating it with female products and fake tan. For example ‘the idea of using a coloured face product is completely alien to me. There’s a stigma attached to coloured products, which coincides with the idea of being ‘over-groomed’. However, when asked what their miracle product would tackle three of the main things they wanted were target are blemishes, dark circles and skin tone. (See appendix 6) This unique technology is something that can be captured and used to create innovative and incredibly effective products.

FIG 20, TUBES, 2012.

Key strengths - Increases effectiveness of active ingredients e.g. retinol.

- Taps into the science focus that men look for in products.

- A tinted product can appear to be white until it reaches the skin; which tackles some of men’s issues surrounding pigmented products.

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FIG 21, GENDER, 2009.

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g e nd er T H E F U T U R E O F M A L E G R OO M I N G

FIG 22, SMOKING MAN, 2012.

The main factor that drives changes within the grooming market is gender, and how men think a man should look and behave. If gender issues were to not exist, male and female consumers would co-exist equally and there would be no differentiation between the grooming products available for them. However, gender is a very important part of society that helps people anchor an identity and understand who they are. Gender characteristics play a huge part in this, and these characteristics are generally split directly into male and female. All the signifiers one person holds build up to connote a gender; for example, traditionally women are seen to be soft and gentle, whereas males are expected to be strong and brave. And just as theorist Judith Butler recognised, gender is not something we are given, it is a set of characteristics of which we perform, she says ‘There is no gender identity behind the expressions of gender; ... identity is performatively constituted by the very “expressions” that are said to be its results.’ (Butler, 1990: 12) In the today’s society how men behave is often due to what they think is expected of them, and this will determine what products men are using. But it seems these expectations are no longer as fixed, ‘they accept a blurring of lines between masculine and feminine’ (Charlton, 2012: Online) and with this blurring they are enjoying using beauty products that would once have strictly been for women. This newfound masculinity is ‘much more subtle. By allowing themselves to be fragile, men are finding a new humanity.’(Fric, 2012: Online).

FIG 23, KARSTEN GRUENBERG, 2011.

Another gender issue is sexuality, ‘twenty years ago, male fashion, skin care and vanity in general were identified with gay men. Now sexuality, it seems, is irrelevant.’ (Gotting, 2003: Online) A persons sexuality no longer has to define who they are, but is just an element of them. Male cosmetics is still regularly linked to homosexuality or larger than life drag queens, and this stigma stops male cosmetics filtering into the mainstream. However, products such as YSL’s Touche Eclat for men, that is designed to ‘enhance men’s natural complexions, rather than create a full makeup look’ (Walker, 2008: Online) has become increasingly popular, and it seems men have found a middle ground that they are comfortable with.

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FIG 24, ROY, CECIL COURT, 2012.

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the be a r d T H E F U T U R E O F M A L E G R OO M I N G

“He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man: and he that is more than a youth is not for me, and he that is less than a man, I am not for him...�

-Much Ado About Nothing, Act II, Scene 1. William Shakespeare.

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It appears that men are fighting back against the silky smooth, clean-shaven gentleman to which has been expected of them for decades. All hail the return of the retrosexual – the beard is back! ‘In the face of an increasingly feminised modern world, the beard is enjoying a surprise growth in popularity. From five o’clock shadow to feral bush, facial fur is the ultimate masculine restorative.’ (Parsons, 2012: Online) Historically ‘the beard is the mark of a man’, wrote St Clement of Alexandria, with it being ‘a potent symbol of masculinity, adopted by the most prominent figures’ (Eshun, 2012: 136) from the most powerful Egyptian leaders to William Shakespeare and Charles Darwin. But where did they come from?

DIHYDROTESTOSTERONE is the chemical that promotes the growth of a beard a beard has been a sign of masculinity and strength for centuries warmth: to hide sensitive skin from the elements intimidation: to create a thicker and stronger looking jawline protection: to cushion any blows to the face in ancient times beards were a sign of honour and were only ever cut off as a punishment over the centuries beards have cycled in and out of fashion in the 19th century abraham lincoln made beards popular again and now about 55% of males worldwide have facial hair 28

FIG 25, HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT, 2012.

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FIG 26, THE BEARDS, 2013.

‘The return of the beard says a significant amount about men and how we’re living now; about our hopes, our fragilities, our attitudes and worldview.’(Eshun, 2012:136) With women and men becoming ever more equals in every aspect of life, both work and play; the woman is just as much competition as a fellow male. Society is increasingly told that gender isn’t such a defining factor and a level playing field is being created, in particular in the work place. Traditional gender roles are blurring and men want to affirm their maleness in the most obvious way. ‘If you want to know who men are today, look to the beard… face fuzz says much more about the state of contemporary masculinity’ (Eshun, 2012: 134). Men are happily finding the balance between embracing what makes them a man, and still wanting to look and feel their best. And this means they wont be sacrificing using their daily moisturiser or antiaging eye cream anytime soon to be a ‘real man’.

Where it’s being seen?

With actors such as Ryan Gosling, Brad Pitt and Tom Hardy all seen sporting the bearded look, it signaled of things to come for the men of Britain. Patrick Grant, director of Saville Row tailors ‘Norton & Sons’ is seen as a bit of a beard icon in the fashion industry and in an interview with him he said ‘its mostly the fashion world, and in the creative industry, there’s loads of men with beards… And I think from there it just sort of spread…it bled into the cooler corners of London, and then you have all sorts of different groups of people.’ (Grant, 2012) And for the next few years it will remain within these specific circles of the fashion and design conscious man.

The movement was also recognised by photographer Jonathan Pryce, who began the blog ‘100 Beards, 100 Days’, which eventually launched as a book in late 2012. Documenting the beautifully crafted and handsome beards he discovered on the streets of London, he believes that ‘The beard now sits comfortably between its rugged past and refined, lacquered style’ (Pryce, 2012: Online). Once a sign of scruffiness and being disheveled‘Beards are no longer grown out of laziness, but out of style. Beards have become bold and beautiful. They give men an attractive angle, an association to masculinity and an edgy allure.’ (Trendhunter, 2012: Online).

‘The beard now sits comfortably between its rugged past and refined, lacquered style’

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Jonathan Pyrce, 100 Beards, 100 Days.

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ON THE CATWALK

The beard appeared in abundance on the catwalk for 2012 and has also been predicted to be strong in 2013.

FIG 27, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER A/W 12, 2012.

FIG 28, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD A/W 12, 2012.

FIG 29, PATRICK MOHR A/W 12, 2012.

FIG 30, PAUL SMITH A/W 12, 2012.

‘This season, beards were out in full force’

(The Cut, 2012: Online)

FIG 31, DANIELA ALESSANDRINI A/W 12, 2012.

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FIG 32, HERMES A/W 12, 2012.

FIG 33, YOHJI YAMAMOTO S/S 11, 2012.

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FIG 34, MARTIN MARGIELA A/W 11, 2012.

The question is, does the presence of the beard have longevity and will it be staying around for much longer? It could be seen as merely a passing phase but in a recent article ‘Welcome to Beardlandia’ by Esquire it was identified as ‘more than just a fashion statement… the reasons run far deeper than fickle trend.’ (Eshun, 2012: 138) And if men are enjoying this shift in masculinity, they will maintain it for a while. As identified by Patrick Grant, ‘the world moves really slowly, and we forget that were in the world of fashion where stuff moves quickly…men are very slow moving in general, there slow to adopt things and when they do they stick with them for a really long time. That’s a fundamental difference between men and women.’ (Grant, 2012)With this is mind, the power house of shaving that is Gillette, launched a beard trimmer in late 2012, ‘this tells you that they are taking it incredibly seriously, as this is a company whose whole business is about having the cleanest shave possible. The fact that they’ve launched a beard product, they think its here to stay.’

(Grant, 2012) For Gillette to invest in what can only be seen as the enemy of what they stand for, certainly signifies that there is still a lot more to be seen of the beard; and it is an area that can be capitalised upon.

HOW DOES THIS EFFECT THE GROOMING MARKET? With the shaving sector of the grooming market seeing a downfall as a result of this movement, opportunities now lie within areas such as beard conditioners and stylers as there is ‘a fine line between looking stylish because you have a beard, and looking unkempt because you have a beard’ (Bushnell, 2012: Online). Men are wanting to take care of the hair on their face just as much as the hair on their heads, for example when the male public were asked what their dream product would do one candidate said ‘It would condition my beard as well as my face’ (See appendix 6) and another said ‘Without conditioner my beard feels rougher and it is definitely more unkempt and harder to keep tidy, but I always worry about how it will effect my skin.’ (Wrighty, 2013: Appendix 4) Although no product tackles both facial hair and skin these products are currently available that treat facial hair.

Jack Black - Beard Lube

FIG 35, BARBERS, 2012.

‘The lightweight, penetrating formula not only helps prepare the beard by penetrating and softening whisker growth, it holds in moisture so the shaving blade glides easily.’

Available Online & in Boots stores. £18.

MR NATTY’S BEARD ELIXIR ‘Mr Natty’s beard elixir has sourced the best natural oils and blended them together to create a beautifully scented elixir that would benefit a beard. This is like your very own nectar for your beard – it will keep it cleansed, conditioned and offers astringent qualities. Smells delightful too.’

Available Online. £7.95.

Bluebeards Original Beard Saver This daily skin and facial hair lotion acts as an outstanding anti-itch and conditioner for new growth.

And for the established beard, just a dab rubbed throughout the facial hair, from root to tip, will manage even the most unruly facial hair. With aloe vera to soothe and protect, and lime essential oils, which helps to dissolve oils trapped by whiskers.

Available Online.

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FIG 36, FABIAN S, 2012.

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‘we are dealing with a generation of men who truly embrace flexibility as a way of life…with a culture-jamming approach to fashion and aesthetics’ To answer the question this report originally asked, ‘if an innovative product can capitalise on emerging gaps in the market’, a product needs a target consumer. And for an innovative product to become successful and then be adopted by the mainstream it takes a specific type of consumer to initially use a product to drive these changes.

‘They’re the style makers. It doesn’t mean your average Joe is going to copy everything they do. But unless you study these guys you don’t know where Average Joe is headed’ (St John 2003: Online) And as St John is saying, as with anything, fashion, hairstyles, or even music; it takes these ‘style makers’ who are deeply in touch with the zeitgeist, to do something out of the norm for that ripple effect to happen. And when they do, it can bring something new and exciting to our attention. It has been said that David Beckham is the figure to be credited with the change in male behaviour, with Warwick University Professor Dr. Andrew Parker saying ‘Beckham has helped break masculine codes, defying various manly expectations such as what clothes a man is allowed to wear.’ (Parker, 2003: Online) On a smaller scale, influential males within their social or work groups can be causing trends; from the shoes they wear to the skincare product they use.

With this breakdown of masculine codes, it could be said we have reached the ‘tipping point’ in male grooming.

As Malcom Gladwell describes it, ‘the Tipping Point is that magic moment when an idea, trend or social behavior crosses a threshold, tips, and spreads like wildfire.’

(Gladwell 2000: 16). Because even though stigma’s still stand surrounding male grooming, men are now in a place where they know what they want from products.

This was seen in primary research, where the majority of men had strong opinions against the thought of ‘male cosmetics’, however, when asked what they did want from a product they were incredibly specific. When asked how they felt about men using a coloured skin product one participant said it was a ‘bit gay’, but when asked what he would want from a product he wanted something ‘Similar effect to foundation i.e. normalise skin tone on the face’ (See appendix 6) As Flocker explains, ‘Secure in his masculinity, he no longer has to spend his life defending it. He has options.’ (Flocker, 2003: 13). Although some stigma still remains surrounding topics of fashion and beauty, men are now sophisticated in there tastes and interests, and this level of awareness can be seen through their clothing and appearance, ‘we are dealing with a generation of men who truly embrace flexibility as a way of life…with a culturejamming approach to fashion and aesthetics’ (Fric, 2012: Online).

We are no longer dealing with a male consumer that fits into an age bracket, but more a style or cultural tribe that share interests and similar lifestyle choices. These four consumer profiles show four separate men who fit into different age ranges. They are the style-makers and opinionformers in their own environments and are the men who would be open to new innovation in the skincare sector.

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the urban sportsman

What does he look for in a product?

Excitement – something new and fresh that’s never been seen before to show to his friends.

IN A SHORT PHRASE HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE? Casual, with sport, indie and urban influences.

DO YOU THINK YOU FIT INTO A PARTICULAR STYLE ‘TRIBE’?

I think my style of clothing is influenced by the music I listen to and the scene that goes with it.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE FASHION BRANDS? Folk, Adidas, Topman.

WHOSE WARDROBE WOULD YOU STEAL? Jude Law. WHAT MAGAZINE AND BLOGS DO YOU READ? The Satrorialist, Daily Street.

WHAT BANDS/MUSICIANS/DJ’S DO YOU LOVE? Bicep, Loco Dice, Villalobos, Soul Clap, Carl Craig, Floating Points, Arctic Monkeys, Ghost Poet.

WHAT IS THE ONE BELONGING YOU COULDN’T LIVE WITHOUT? iPhone

FIG 37, PAUL BROWN, 2013.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE ITEMS IN YOUR CLOTHING/SHOE COLLECTION? Nike Leather Vintage mid blazers, Edwin Jeans, Folk Coat.

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the country cowboy

What does he look for in a product?

Reassurance & a product that does more than one job.

Not big into technology, but enjoys well considered products.

IN A SHORT PHRASE HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE? Cowboy chic.

DO YOU THINK YOU FIT INTO A PARTICULAR STYLE ‘TRIBE’?

Fans of ‘Justified’ TV show are my tribe.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE FASHION BRANDS? Levi’s, All Saints, Diesel.

WHOSE WARDROBE WOULD YOU STEAL? Raylan Givens (Timothy Olyphant’s character from ‘Justified’) WHAT MAGAZINE AND BLOGS DO YOU READ? I follow Tumblr blogs for various people I like. I love Michael Stipe’s Tumblr blog.

WHAT BANDS/MUSICIANS/DJ’S DO YOU LOVE? Tom Waits, Bob Dylan, Kelly Joe Phelps, Rickie Lee Jones, Bruce Springsteen, Miles Davis.

WHAT IS THE ONE BELONGING YOU COULDN’T LIVE WITHOUT? Two special coins I always carry.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE ITEMS IN YOUR CLOTHING/SHOE COLLECTION? A pair of Diesel ‘Darron’ jeans, a blue All Saints shirt, a waistcoat.

FIG 38, JAMES MCDONALD, 2013.

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the bearded scandinavian

What does he look for in a product?

A product with science behind it – simple & effective, but is also swayed by heritage and classic design. Technology excites him.

IN A SHORT PHRASE HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE? My personal style is skate and hike with class and heritage thrown in. One of my mates coined the phrase - revill, you look like a skater who is just about to climb a mountain haha.

DO YOU THINK YOU FIT INTO A PARTICULAR STYLE ‘TRIBE’?

I don’t know the names of style tribes but I suspect I do as I share common interests with my friends.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE FASHION BRANDS? Nike SB, Universal Works and Garbstore.

WHOSE WARDROBE WOULD YOU STEAL? Steve McQueen.

WHAT MAGAZINE AND BLOGS DO YOU READ? Laid back blog, Potholes in my blog, A grumpy old man with a beard blog, trendhunter, TED, resident advisor. I also pick up GQ quite often and enjoy sunday supplements but do not religiously buy them.

WHAT BANDS/MUSICIANS/DJ’S DO YOU LOVE? DJ Shadow, Q-Bert, Mr Scruff, DJ Krush, J.Dilla, The Roots, Mos Def, Jill Scott, Bonobo, Radiohead, UNKLE, Thom Yorke.

WHAT IS THE ONE BELONGING YOU COULDN’T LIVE WITHOUT? Macbook.

FIG 39, NICK REVILL, 2013.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE ITEMS IN YOUR CLOTHING/SHOE COLLECTION? Loake 1880 brogues (the best brogue ever), Garbstore uscs 30’s jacket, lastly believe it or not a one true saxon sample ‘plumbers jacket’. It’s a really good jacket and sadly one of the last things they ever made. Another great Nottingham company gone to the wall.

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the tailored gent What does he look for in a product?

A future classic – the perfect product with timeless style .

IN A SHORT PHRASE HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE? personal style evolves and changes all the time. At the heart of everything I wear it always comes back to tailoring and then I layer lots of different things on top.

DO YOU THINK YOU FIT INTO A PARTICULAR STYLE ‘TRIBE’?

I like very British or historical feels.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE FASHION BRANDS? I really like Prada. I don’t tend to buy very much!

WHOSE WARDROBE WOULD YOU STEAL? Probably the Duke of Windsor! Because everything he had was created by the most incredible people in the world.

WHAT MAGAZINE AND BLOGS DO YOU READ? Non. I think a lot of blogs just regurgitate information and they are fed PR, and as soovn as they get successful they start to be endorsed in the way that magazines are; they are just paid to advertise.

WHAT BANDS/MUSICIANS/DJ’S DO YOU LOVE? I listen to music a lot but it would be so hard to draw up the list. There are things that I always go back to, and listen to time and again, Bowie, Blondie, The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Radiohead. At the moment Arcade Fire and Metronomy; all manner of stuff!

WHAT IS THE ONE BELONGING YOU COULDN’T LIVE WITHOUT? My bicycle.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE ITEMS IN YOUR CLOTHING/SHOE COLLECTION? I couldn’t possibly choose!

FIG 40, PATRICK GRANT, 2013.

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Buying behaviour All these men had one thing in common, and this is there buying behaviour. It was noted that all their belongings they coveted were of high quality and a sense of ‘quality over quantity’ was felt in how they answered the questions. Most of the brands mentioned were classed as premium brands, and the words classic, heritage, and original appeared; signifying that these men treat their purchases as considered decisions rather than impulse buys. Toby Bateman, the buying director of Mr Porter, also agrees with this and suggests there is a return to more traditional aesthetic values with modern detailing, saying ‘style was about quality and craftsmanship. I think men are beginning to associate their wardrobe purchases with those attributes again’ (Bateman 2012: Online). If this feeling of quality and worth can be recreated in a skincare product, it would appeal to these consumers.

These men also do not necessarily need the influence of a female half to help them make purchasing decision. ‘Confidence, security and a sense of style are the defining factors of the modern man.’

(Flocker, 2003: 12) and these men are embracing the joy they get out of retail. Just as Darren Skey, the menswear buying and merchandising manager at Harvey Nichols says ‘Men’s shopping habits are changing at a phenomenal rate. They now shop like women do, as a leisure activity, browsing and experimenting with different labels.’ (Skey, 2012: Online). And this sophistication goes beyond just browsing in a store; the Internet is used heavily to find inspiration from blogs such as style.com and The Satorialist ‘using those as a reference point to put together looks.’ (Skey, 2012: Online) Men are starting to adopt the skills to be smart shoppers.

FIG 41, JUSTICE LEAUGE OF AMERICA, 2011.

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P r od u ct te s ti n g & t rack in g

Product testing & tracking To see how far men want to be pushed, and to identify what aspects of skincare products they like and dislike; two of the four opinion formers were tracked over a period of time and tested three separate skincare products. They were questioned before the testing began to gage where their opinion lay with grooming and what their current regime consisted of. Then, over a period of three weeks they engaged in testing three skin products. Each product had different purposes and fitted into separate price brackets, gradually stepping up closer to what would be considered ‘feminine products’, including things such as tanning elements. With every product the opinion formers were questioned in detail on aspects such as smell, feel, packaging etc. At the end of the three-week period they were re-questioned, and in theory this was to see if their opinions had changed at all. (See appendix 7) Both of the participants already felt that their personal appearance, including their grooming habits were an important part of who they were and their self confidence, stating that ‘I think they go hand in hand, I don’t think there is much point in dressing well if you are not going to pay any attention to your hair/facial hair and vice versa’ (Brown, 2013) and ‘I’d say that my grooming is no less important than my clothing.’ (McDonald, 2013).

1 2 3

FIG 42, AESOP BOTTLES, 2012.

Product One was No.7’s Protect & Perfect Moisturising Eye Cream, to achieve younger looking eyes. Both men described the product as ‘cooling’, rating it 7.5 out of 10 and predicted the cost to be £8, which was close to its retail price of £13.25. However, neither noticed a visible difference at the end of the week.

Product Two was L’Oreal Men Expert Hydra Energetic Gradual Tanning Moisturiser.

The element of the gradual tan in the cream was to test whether this was something the participants enjoyed or felt was not a masculine feature. Both commented on the smell, voting it 8 out of 10 and saying ‘the smell was lovely. Perfumed - fresh smelling.’

(McDonald, 2013) However it appeared that the tanner was not subtle enough for their liking, causing a problem for one in particular, ‘No, it was too obvious that I had been using a tanning product and not very subtle. It stained my hands for a week’ (Brown, 2013). With mixed results the moisturiser had got some things spot on, but others very wrong.

Product Three was Lab Series BB Tinted Moisturiser and was the product that held the most ‘feminine’ characteristics, as it was one of the first male BB creams. The pigmented element also points closely to something similar to a foundation or women’s tinted moisturiser. The views on this product were very mixed, although both commented on how ‘thick’ and ‘waxy’ the product felt on their skin, Paul Brown enjoyed the results and James McDonald didn’t. What was found from this product was that the tinting aspect was welcomed ‘I enjoyed the look and feel of the product as well as the slight tan that it gave to my face as it was only noticeable to myself’ (Brown, 2013), however for this to be a successful product the consistency would need to be altered.

At £34, this product sits in the premium sector of the male skincare market, but still has areas that can be improved.

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At the end of the product-testing period, both men expressed how they would happily try more feminine products in the future but only if they were not advertised as makeup, but as a moisturiser. ‘I would wear tinted moisturiser as I think it is now accepted for men to use products that make them more tanned as long as it wasn’t advertised as makeup or made it look like you were wearing make up’ (Brown, 2013) And when asked if they would try a product by a cool premium brand that hid flaws and accentuated features the responses were very positive with ‘Yes, Absolutely!’ (McDonald, 2013). However, gender boundaries were still very obvious as both recognised that using products still has stigmas attached, as Paul Brown explains ‘I think that it is acceptable for the modern man to use products but not as much as women, as men should still be men’ (Brown, 2013).

So what do the consumers want?

FIG 43, MATT MERRELL, 2010.

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It is clear that brands must be aware of the very fine line men hold against products in terms of what is acceptable and enjoyable to use, against what they class as too far into female territory. If a brand can gain this balance and use the art of subtlety to its highest level, they could create a product that gets the results men want, without the concern over whether it effects their masculinity. If a product could be seen as ‘cool’ by male style-makers, the ‘cool factor’ can be the tool to overcome these issues.

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FIG 44, BOTTLES, 2011.

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THE MALE PUBLIC QUESTIONNAIRE 36 males participated in a confidential questionnaire where they were asked about their current skincare usage and their opinions on the topic. Revealing what they really thought. Here are some of the results, the rest can be found in Appendix 6.

HAVE YOU EVER SECRETLY BORROWED A PARTNER OR ANOTHER FEMALE’S MAKE-UP TO COVER UP A BLEMISH OR DARK CIRCLES?

YES - 73% NO - 27%

DO YOU CURRENTLY USE A MOISTURISER?

YES - 72% NO - 28%

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THE TOP 4 THINGS WOULD WANT THEIR PERFECT PRODUCT TO TACKLE

WRINKLES BLEMISHES DARK CIRCLES MOISTURISING SKIN TONE

53% OF MEN HAD NEGATIVE OPINIONS WHEN ASKED ABOUT THE POSSIBILITY OF MEN WEARING MAKEUP IN THE FUTURE.

‘Bags under the eyes are quite a big problem for males. Targeting this would be good.’

Anti wrinkle!

Skin tone and obvious appearance to others whilst looking natural. With the covering of any blemishes or permanent marks.

‘I guess we are becoming more metrosexual but I can’t see men getting up every morning to ‘do their makeup’ the way girls do.’

‘ I d o t h i n k p e o p le should try and look their best; male or female.’

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case study

the kooples The Kooples, a super cool Parisian fashion brand; was built by the trio of Elicha brothers in 2008, who rose from an impeccably stylish background, as ‘the sons of the people behind the Comptoir des Cotonniers womenswear chain…they have retail in their blood’ (Davies, 2010: Online).

The brands ‘two main fundamental concepts are rock and roll and couples’ creating ‘pieces that brings about an air of harmony for couples, aligning the fabrics, colours and themes among their male and female lines’ (Fashion & Power, 2011: Online). You will find perfectly tailored blazers in metallic fabrics sitting alongside soft cashmere sweaters and leather trousers, with a sophisticated attention to detail. Think Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall, or Kate Moss and Pete Doherty. The Kooples embodies those feelings of ‘Classic with a touch of rebel’ (Willsher, 2012: Online) and their name is almost reminiscent of a rock band. This androgynous style feels very ‘of the moment’ with its inspiration playing on ‘the role of gender identity’ where the garments ’easily adapt to either the male or female form’ (Trends Magazine Paris 2011: Online). This taps into how many couples borrow each other’s clothes; in particular, women borrowing their other halves oversized garments.

Their unique and clever advertising campaign features real life couples, who ooze an envious effortless cool; each stating how long they have been an item. The adverts can be seen plastered across magazines and buses and could very easily be mistaken for a dating website that only allows the most beautiful to join in. ‘The Kooples campaign have tapped precisely into the zeitgeist of the moment and, not surprisingly, in just two years have met with tremendous success in their homeland France and Britain as a result.’ (Knox, 2011: Online) Although not involved in the grooming or cosmetics world, the brand has certain characteristics that set it apart from many of its fashion rivals. Rebellion, attention to detail, and a fresh outlook on the market. As a young brand, they have swept in and grabbed the attention of the cool people of London, in particular the men. And although both men and women shop in their stores, the stores still remain a rather masculine look with mainly black and grey coloured garments. But a feminine influence could be used to their advantage.

With the success they have found so far, new sectors outside of fashion could be discovered, ‘The Kooples is a brand willing to take risks in expanding into new exciting areas in the near future’ (Chapuis, 2012: Appendix 5) This links with what is said in ‘Fashion Marketing – Contemporary Issues’, ‘Designers more and more realise that fashion is no longer a matter of clothing, but one of lifestyle – a multi faceted, multi purpose entity where fashion is just one part of a heady, highly complex way of living.’ (Hines, 2012: 297) The Kooples could be an excellent brand to use as a platform for expanding into the male grooming market, capitalising on space in the premium sector. Using its existing consumer of the young, urban, fashion forward, successful male as its starting point for early adopters of a new brand extension.

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‘the masculine-feminine approach inspired by the street culture scene blends the chic of Paris with the cool of London to create clothes that transcend the trends to become the new basics”

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(Trends Magazine Paris, 2011: Online)

FIG 45, THE KOOPLES MAGAZINE, 2012.

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FIG 46, BO ROBERTS, 2011.

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s trategic outcome T H E F U T U R E O F M A L E G R OO M I N G

Through a variety of concise research, key findings have been recognised and the following shall be taken forward as future recommendations.

1 2

Men enjoy the results of a subtle tinted product, although still have issues with actually using a cream that is pigmented when squeezed out as they link this with a female product.

Technologies such as Tagra have created an opportunity for such product to exist.

3 4

Multi-functional products that effectively do multiple jobs at once are ideal for men, who want a simple and uncomplicated skin regime. If one product can do the job of five, the choice for men is easy.

5

Men like science, and the reassurance it gives a product. With Tagra technology any active ingredients captured within a cream isn’t released until it reaches contact with the skin; maintaining its benefits until it is needed. This unrivalled technology has only been used in a handful of other skincare products, predominantly female, and could appeal to men’s search for new technology.

The return of the beard is an addition to the grooming market that is impossible to ignore.

As shaving products may suffer, opportunities are now open to innovative products that serve a new purpose. Beard conditioners are an area to be explored, as currently they are not a many options available.

The premium sector is where opportunities still lie, with men, in particular the ‘style makers’ being ‘ready to spend what it takes to look good.’ (Charlton, 2012: Online) And its not just beauty players who are said to benefit from this, ‘Brands that invest in grooming products exclusively for the men’s market stand to increase spending levels in this under-developed but fast-growing sector’ (Costa, 2011: Online)

FIG 47, WALLER CREEK, 2012.

The Product

A multi-functional product launched as a brand extension for a male premium clothing brand, which expertly cares for both a man’s skin and his facial hair. Using Tagra technology to encapsulate active ingredients that tackles signs of ageing and fatigue, whilst pigment capsules give a subtle and healthy glow to the skin, and conditioning ingredients smooth and soften facial hair and beard’s. The goal is for today’s modern man to not need a cabinet full of creams and potions; but for one product to do the job of many.

Science will be the foundation of the product, aiming to offer a trusted product that is as close to perfect as possible. And in doing so, bringing something new and exciting to the male grooming market.

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Key problems the cream will tackle & the active ingredients used Smooth’s wrinkles and gently firms skin, creating a unrivalled youthful look Retinol has been said to be the most effective anti ageing ingredient available, there is strong clinical research behind it. And if the female bible, Vogue swears by it, it must be something special;

‘Imagine for a moment that a revolutionary skin-care ingredient was discovered.

It visibly smoothed out wrinkles and obliterated breakouts; it improved skin texture and tightened pores into tiny little nothings. It could lessen the look of brown spots and sometimes even helped reduce precancerous lesions. It quite literally turned back the skin’s clock to a glowier, more luminous past. If such an ingredient existed, who among us would not dash off to the nearest dermatologist, or corner drugstore to snatch it up?

Such an ingredient does exist, and chances are some form of it is currently languishing in a corner of your medicine cabinet. It’s retinol. It isn’t sexy. It definitely isn’t new. In fact, it was discovered 81 years ago, making it a veritable dowager compared with all the fresh new super-ingredients that have since come onto the anti-aging scene. For the past few decades, it has been hiding in plain sight—but with a few new developments, it is stepping back into the limelight’ (Mueller 2012: Online)

Facial hair conditioner & softener. For the ultimate beard.

Argan Oil dubbed ‘liquid gold’ has been used in Morocco for centuries, it has recently become more popular in hair care products such as smoothing serums. It contains natural antioxidants and nourishes the skin, hair and nails. ‘Argan Oil is ideal for all skin types, including the most sensitive skins. It is an excellent moisturising emollient for dry, rough skin and can also be used to add a beautiful healthy sheen to hair, leaving it feeling silky soft and smooth’ (Holland & Barratt, 2012: Online) This will be the ingredient used for this particular function.

Energises skin and rids signs of fatigue Eucalyptus Essential Oil is a natural oil native to Australia, ‘the cooling essential oil produced from the leaves and twigs has decongestant properties and is used by aromatherapists to ease muscular aches and pains.’ (Earle 2011: Online) If used in the product it will help to make the skin feel fresh and energised, and as an anti-inflammatory it will soothe any inflamed skin. Known for that ‘tingly’ feeling it gives, it also has an invigorating scent, that isn’t feminine.

Evens skin tone, hiding scars, dark circles and blemishes; giving a healthy glow Tagra Technology with pigment capsules. As previously discussed in the case study, the unique technology of microcapsules can encapsulate pigment within a cream so that it remains white and pure until applied to the skin when it gives off a subtle colour that adapts to the users skin tone. This helps the male consumer overcome the issues they may have with used a tinted product as the results can’t be seen until on their skin.

Protection from sun damage SPF 35 - to protect the skin. The sun is an element that can drastically increase ageing of the skin.

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FIG 48, LIQUID GOLD, 2012.

THIS PAGE IS 15OGSM CROMATICO

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THIS PAGE IS 15OGSM CROMATICO

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Lexical choices and bottle design The choice of words used to name and describe a product, could easily alienate a male consumer.

Words such as ‘soothing’ or ‘beautifying’ should be avoided as they hold strong female connotations. In the male market ‘some of the product names even sound like maneuvers on the field of battle, or perhaps plays shouted out in a football huddle.’ (Tuttle, 2012: Online). Most of the words seen to describe products are active words such as; fight, tackle, energise, hydrate, and revitalise. These words show the direct correlation between using the product and the results they give. And are the types of words that will be considered for the finished product.

The look and feel of the products packaging is almost on par with the product itself. A successful cream can’t be successful in the market if the packaging doesn’t appeal to its consumer. As a premium product the packaging will reflect this through the bottle design and materials used.

Eco Luxe, Unity and Infinite Geometry are all packaging trends for S/S 14 and will be the influences for the products bottle and packaging. Described as ‘paired back design approach, where noble materials meet considered forms’ (Style sight, 2012: Online) Geometry is a key component in the design and ‘materials look to glass and translucent properties in order to reflect and refract the light. This, alongside the jagged and inveigled geometric surfaces, plays mesmerizing tricks on the human eye.’

(Style sight, 2012: Online) These images visualise inspiration for future packaging Functionality also needs to be carefully considered, and ideas can be taken from other brands using clever design such as Lynx when they recently relaunched their shower gels ‘The new packaging is not only environmentally-friendly, but ergonomically designed for one handed dispensing – perfect for the urban male.’ (Euromonitor, 2012: Online) If a product is convenient to use and the application process is simple, it is one step closer to becoming a part of a man’s daily skincare regime.

Placement & Price Although yet to be considered in detail, the placement of the product will be a brand extension of a current premium menswear brand; offering a lifestyle to its consumer, rather than just garments.

As a premium brand the pricing of the product must reflect this and will sit in the £20 - £30 price range. However, this is an area still to be explored in depth.

FIG 49, BOTTLE DESIGN, 2013.

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conclusion

Through the exploration of the male grooming market, trends and gaps in the market have been recognised and used to develop a new product for men. The variety of products available for men is ever growing; but the key is to offer something new that taps into a need that’s not yet been fulfilled. The future of male grooming lies within innovation and diversification. Trust and experience have been noted as being the two elements men look for when investing in a product.

‘Trust: an indication of brand integrity and stature... Experience: consumers who have ever used/visited/bought the brand, an indication of presence in the category’ (Mintel, 2011: Online). The male grooming market is seeing exciting changes as a result of men’s attitudes evolving, and it is safe to say that through skincare products men ‘are enjoying having the freedom to tap into their inner god.’ (Beresford, 2010: Online) And surely every man deserves to feel this.

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‘It’s a man’s world, and you men can have it’

K.A. Porter

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MINTEL, 2011. Men’s Grooming and Shaving Products [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 16 November 2012]

TUTTLE, B, 2012. Hey buddy got an eye shadow I can borrow? [online] TIME.com. Available at: http://business.time.com/2012/06/25/hey-buddy-got-any-eye-shadow-i-can-borrow/ [Accessed 3 January 2012]

MINTEL, 2012. Men’s Toiletries [online] Available via: Mintel [Accessed 5 December 2012] MUELLER, C, 2012. The Return to Retinol [online]. Vogue. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/voguedaily/article/the-return-to-retinol/#1 [Accessed 3 January 2012] MYA, 2012. The TOWIE effect impacts cosmetic surgery trends [online] Mya. Available at: http://www.mya.co.uk/cosmetic-surgery-news/the-towie-effect-impacts-cosmetic-surgery-trends/ [Accessed 15 December 2012] NANCHOLAS, T, 2011. Looking good is a premium worth paying [online]. Marketing Week. Available at: http://www.marketingweek.co.uk/looking-good-is-a-premium-worth-paying/3026544.article [Accessed 2 December 2012] PARKER, A, 2003. Rise of the Metrosexual [online] The Age. Available at: http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2003/03/10/1047144914842.html [Accessed 2 January 2013]

TYRIMOU, N, 2012. Euromonitor reveals keys to unlocking lucrative men’s grooming market [online] Cosmetics Design. Available at: http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/MarketTrends/Euromonitor-reveals-keys-to-unlocking-lucrative-men-s-grooming-market [Accessed 4 December 2012] ULLSTEIN, W, 2011. Interest in male beauty brands rises [online] Marketing Week. Available at: http://www.marketingweek.co.uk/interest-rate-in-male-beauty-brands-rises/3030118.article [Accessed 3 December 2012] WALKER, H, 2008. Because he’s worth it – Make up for men [online] The Independent. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/because-hes-worth-it--makeup-for-men923391.html [Accessed 5 January 2012] WALKER, J, 2012. Interviewed by: ROBERTS, E ( 29 November 2012).

PARSONS, T, 2012. Tony Parsons on the popularity of beards [online] GQ. Available at: http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/comment/articles/2011-05/17/gq-comment-tony-parsons-columnbeards-men-facial-hair [Accessed 22 December 2012]

WGSN, 2012. Men’s Grooming: Euromonitor Study [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 1 December 2012]

PRYCE, J, 2012. 100 Beards – 100 Days [online]. Port Magazine. Available at: http://www.portmagazine.com/fashion/100-beards-100-days/#.UPcvvM1nrJF [Accessed 4 December 2012]

WILLSHER, K, 2012. Saville Row meets Paris chic as forges cross-channel couture [online]. The Guardian. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2012/may/06/the-kooples-paris-fashion [Accessed 27 November 2012]

RICHARDSON, G, 2012. London to get its own Men’s Fashion Week(end) [online]. Telegraph. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/Article/TMG9031323/990/London-to-get-its-own-Mens-FashionWeekend.html [Accessed 5 January 2013] SCHUELLER, R, 2003. Multifunctional Cosmetics. CRC Press.

SELWOOD, D, 2011. The Rise of the Retrosexual [online] The Grocer. Available at: http://www.thegrocer.co.uk/fmcg/focus-on-male-grooming-the-rise-of-the-retrosexual/220182.article [Accessed 20 December 2012]

WRIGHTY, S, 2013. Interviewed by: ROBERTS, E. (3 January 2013)

SKEY, D, 2012. The neo dandies: what does it take to be a modern man about town? [online] The Observer. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2013/jan/06/new-dandies-mens-fashion [Accessed 10 January 2013] ST JOHN, W, 2003. Metrosexuals Come Out [online] New York Times. Available at: http://www.nytimes.com/2003/06/22/style/metrosexuals-come-out.html?pagewanted=all&src=pm [Accessed 13 December 2012] STYLE SIGHT, 2012. Packaging Trend Just [online]. Available via: Style Sight. [Accessed 10 January 2012] STYLE SIGHT, 2012. Packaging Trend Rational [online]. Available via: Style Sight. [Accessed 10 January 2012] TAGRA, 2012. [online] Available at: http://www.tagra.com/products [Accessed 30 November 2012]

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ARTHURS, D, 2011. The TOWIE effect: Sales of false nails soar 567% and fake eyelashes up by 249% as girls go for the Essex look this Christmas [online]. Mail Online. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2075039/The-TOWIE-effect-Sales-false-nails-soar-567fake-eyelashes-298-girls-Essex-look-Christmas.html [Accessed 29 November 2012] BATEMAN, T, 2012. The neo dandies: what does it take to be a modern man about town? [online] The Observer. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2013/jan/06/new-dandies-mens-fashion [Accessed 10 January 2013]

bibliography books

BEAUTY RX SKINCARE, 2012. Why men’s skin ages better than women [online]. Beauty RX Skincare.

Available at: http://www.beautyrx.com/blog/why-men’s-skin-ages-better-women [Accessed 28 December 2012]

BOYER, G, 2005. Fred Astaire Style. New York: Assouline.

BLACKBURN, N, 2007. Israeli developed microcapsules deliver vitamins straight to your skin [online] Israel 21c. Available at: http://israel21c.org/technology/israeli-developed-microcapsules-delivervitamins-straight-to-your-skin/ [Accessed 18 December 2012]

BUTLER, J, 1990. Gender Troubles. London: Routledge CICOLINI, A, 2005. The new English Dandy. New York: Assouline.

BROOKER, C, 2012. The cast of Geordie Shore are the noblest people in Britain today [online] The Guardian. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/jul/01/geordie-shore-noblestpeople-in-britain [Accessed 24 December 2012]

COHN, N, 1971. Today there are no gentlemen. Sussex: Littlehampton Book Services Ltd DAVIES, H, 2008. Modern Menswear. London: Laurence King.

FLOCKER, M, 2003. The Metrosexual Guide to Style: A Handbook for the Modern Man. Cambridge: De Capo.

FLUSSER, A, 2002. Dressing the man: the art of permanent fashion. London: Harper Collins.

GLADWELL, M, 2000. The Tipping Point: How little things can make a big difference. London: Little Brown.

HINES, T, 2012. Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues. 2nd ed. Oxford: Butterworth-Heinemann.

MCNEIL, P and KARAMINAS, V, 2009. The male fashion reader. Oxford:Berg.

CASTELLA, T, 2011. Fake tan: How did it become the new normal? [online] BBC News. Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-14801688 [Accessed 3 January 2013] CHARLTON, E, 2012. Culture-jammer or neo-dandy, meet post-metrosexual man [online] Available at: http://www.google.com/hostednews/afp/article/ALeqM5hMdp9scM5Vv3tzkEEnKV9lQSpYRA?docId= CNG.a112262c9af6adf4a63e6e8a655714b8.91 [Accessed 19 November 2012] CLARINS, 2012. [online] Clarins. Available at: http://www.clarins.co.uk/Men/500,en_GB,sc.html [Accessed 12 December 2012]

NYLON, 2006. Street: The Nylon book of global style. New York: Universe.

PYRCE, J, 2012. 100 Beards 100 Days. London: Polwarth Publishin.

COSMETIC SCIENCE TECHNOLOGY, 2012. Tagra [online] Available at: http://www.cosmeticsciencetechnology.com/profile.php?id=49 [Accessed 18 December 2012)

RAINWATERS, M, 2011. Beard. San Francisco: Chronicle Books.

SCHUELLER, R, 2003. Multifunctional Cosmetics. CRC Press.

TUNGATE, M, 2008. Fashion Brands: Branding style from Armani to Zara. London: Kogan Page.

COSTA, M, 2011. Interest rate in male beauty brands rises [online]. Marketing Week. Available at: http://www.marketingweek.co.uk/interest-rate-in-male-beauty-brands-rises/3030118.article [Accessed 5 December 2012].

COWLES, C, 2012. Fall 2012 Menswear Beauty Trend: Beards [online] The Cut. Available at: http://nymag.com/thecut/2012/01/fall-2012-menswear-beauty-trend-beards.html [Accessed 4 December 2012]

websites & online articles ARTHURS, D, 2011. The TOWIE effect: Sales of false nails soar 567% and fake eyelashes up by 249% as girls go for the Essex look this Christmas [online]. Mail Online. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2075039/The-TOWIE-effect-Sales-false-nails-soar-567fake-eyelashes-298-girls-Essex-look-Christmas.html [Accessed 29 November 2012] BATEMAN, T, 2012. The neo dandies: what does it take to be a modern man about town? [online] The Observer. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2013/jan/06/new-dandies-mens-fashion [Accessed 10 January 2013]

DAVIES, G, 2010. Coupled up in The Kooples [online] Telegraph. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8179481/Coupled-up-in-The-Kooples.html [Accessed 12 January 2012] EARLE, L, 2011. Energising Body Lotion [online]. Liz Earle. Available at: http://uk.lizearle.com/energise/energising-body-lotion.html?ingredients [Accessed 3 January 2012] GEMAS EFFIE MENA, 2012. Nivea for Men marketing campaign bags GEMAS Effie MENA award [online] AME. Available at: http://www.ameinfo.com/nivea-marketing-campaign-bags-gemas-effie322749 [Accessed 4 January 2013]

BEAUTY RX SKINCARE, 2012. Why men’s skin ages better than women [online]. Beauty RX Skincare.

Available at: http://www.beautyrx.com/blog/why-men’s-skin-ages-better-women [Accessed 28 December 2012]

GOTTING, P, 2003. Rise of the Metrosexual [online] The Age. Available at: http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2003/03/10/1047144914842.html [Accessed 2 January 2013]

BLACKBURN, N, 2007. Israeli developed microcapsules deliver vitamins straight to your skin [online] Israel 21c. Available at: http://israel21c.org/technology/israeli-developed-microcapsules-delivervitamins-straight-to-your-skin/ [Accessed 18 December 2012]

GRAY, E, 2012. Men and advertising: Does this edge men ad mean equality? [online]. Huffington Post.

Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/emma-gray/men-and-advertising-edge-menad_b_1381196.html#s800438&title=Party_Girl [Accessed 30 December 2012]

BROOKER, C, 2012. The cast of Geordie Shore are the noblest people in Britain today [online] The Guardian. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/jul/01/geordie-shore-noblestpeople-in-britain [Accessed 24 December 2012]

HARPAZ, I, 2007. . Israeli developed microcapsules deliver vitamins straight to your skin [online] Israel 21c. Available at: http://israel21c.org/technology/israeli-developed-microcapsules-deliver vitamins-straight-to-your-skin/ [Accessed 18 December 2012]

BUSHNELL, T, 2012. Tom Bushnell on beards [online]. The Murdock Man. Available at: http://themurdockman.com/tom-bushnell-video-interview-on-the-style-of-beards/ [Accessed 5 December 2012]

HOLLAND AND BARRATT, 2012. Argan Oil [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/voguedaily/article/the-return-to-retinol/#1 [Accessed 3 January 2012]

CASTELLA, T, 2011. Fake tan: How did it become the new normal? [online] BBC News. Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-14801688 [Accessed 3 January 2013] CHARLTON, E, 2012. Culture-jammer or neo-dandy, meet post-metrosexual man [online] Available at: http://www.google.com/hostednews/afp/article/ALeqM5hMdp9scM5Vv3tzkEEnKV9lQSpYRA?docId= CNG.a112262c9af6adf4a63e6e8a655714b8.91 [Accessed 19 November 2012] CLARINS, 2012. [online] Clarins. Available at: http://www.clarins.co.uk/Men/500,en_GB,sc.html [Accessed 12 December 2012] COSMETIC SCIENCE TECHNOLOGY, 2012. Tagra [online] Available at: http://www.cosmeticsciencetechnology.com/profile.php?id=49 [Accessed 18 December 2012) COSTA, M, 2011. Interest rate in male beauty brands rises [online]. Marketing Week. Available at: http://www.marketingweek.co.uk/interest-rate-in-male-beauty-brands-rises/3030118.article [Accessed 5 December 2012].

COWLES, C, 2012. Fall 2012 Menswear Beauty Trend: Beards [online] The Cut. Available at: http://nymag.com/thecut/2012/01/fall-2012-menswear-beauty-trend-beards.html [Accessed 4 December 2012]

60

BUSHNELL, T, 2012. Tom Bushnell on beards [online]. The Murdock Man. Available at: http://themurdockman.com/tom-bushnell-video-interview-on-the-style-of-beards/ [Accessed 5 December 2012]

DAVIES, G, 2010. Coupled up in The Kooples [online] Telegraph. Available at: T H E F http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8179481/Coupled-up-in-The-Kooples.html [Accessed 12 January 2012]

JOBS, S, 2009. Ideas [online] Available at: http://www.mashinsky.com/ideas.html [Accessed 3 January 2013] KAY, K, 2012. The neo dandies: what does it take to be a modern man about town? [online] The Observer. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2013/jan/06/new-dandies-mens-fashion [Accessed 3 January 2013] KELLER, A, 2012. Biotherm Homme names Milos Raonic as its new ambassador for North America [online] PR News Wire. Available at: http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/biotherm-hommenames-milos-raonic-as-its-new-ambassador-for-north-america-138840154.html {Accessed 26 November 2012] KITCHENS, S, 2012. Retinol, The Anti-Aging Ingredient, (Still) Fights Wrinkles Better Than Anything Else [online]. Huffington Post. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/10/24/retinol-antiaging-wrinkles_n_2002971.html [Accessed 18 December 2012] KNOX, K, 2011. Sign of the times: The Kooples V. Carrie Bradshaw [online]. Huffington Post. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/kristin-knox/the-kooples-carrie-bradshaw_b_1065870.html [Accessed 27 November 2012] MASHINKSY, A, 2011. Discovery [online] Available at: http://www.mashinsky.com/ideas.html#Discovery [Accessed 3 January 2013]

U T U R E O F M A L E G R OO M I N G

EARLE, L, 2011. Energising Body Lotion [online]. Liz Earle. Available at: http://uk.lizearle.com/energise/energising-body-lotion.html?ingredients [Accessed 3 January 2012]

MUELLER, C, 2012. The Return to Retinol [online]. Vogue. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/voguedaily/article/the-return-to-retinol/#1 [Accessed 3 January 2012]

NANCHOLAS, T, 2011. Looking good is a premium worth paying [online]. Marketing Week. Available at: http://www.marketingweek.co.uk/looking-good-is-a-premium-worth-paying/3026544.article [Accessed 2 December 2012]

Else [online]. Huffington Post. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/10/24/retinol-antiaging-wrinkles_n_2002971.html [Accessed 18 December 2012] KNOX, K, 2011. Sign of the times: The Kooples V. Carrie Bradshaw [online]. Huffington Post. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/kristin-knox/the-kooples-carrie-bradshaw_b_1065870.html [Accessed 27 November 2012] MASHINKSY, A, 2011. Discovery [online] Available at: http://www.mashinsky.com/ideas.html#Discovery [Accessed 3 January 2013]

reports & journals

MUELLER, C, 2012. The Return to Retinol [online]. Vogue. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/voguedaily/article/the-return-to-retinol/#1 [Accessed 3 January 2012]

BARBALOVA, I, 2012. Do men really care about beauty? [online] Euromonitor. Available at: http://blog.euromonitor.com/2012/10/do-men-really-care-about-beauty.html [Accessed 27 November 2012]

NANCHOLAS, T, 2011. Looking good is a premium worth paying [online]. Marketing Week. Available at: http://www.marketingweek.co.uk/looking-good-is-a-premium-worth-paying/3026544.article [Accessed 2 December 2012]

BERESFORD, L, 2010. L’Oreal Men’s Grooming Report 2010 [online]. L’Oreal. Available at: http://www.loreal.co.uk/_en/_gb/pdf/LOreal_Mens_Grooming_Report_FINAL.pdf [Accessed 20 November 2012].

PARKER, A, 2003. Rise of the Metrosexual [online] The Age. Available at: http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2003/03/10/1047144914842.html [Accessed 2 January 2013]

ELLIOTT, R, 2005. Idealized images of the male body in advertising: a reader-response exploration.

Journal of Marketing Communications, 2(1), p.2.

PARSONS, T, 2012. Tony Parsons on the popularity of beards [online] GQ. Available at: http://www.gqmagazine.co.uk/comment/articles/2011-05/17/gq-comment-tony-parsons-column-beards-men-facialhair [Accessed 22 December 2012]

EUROMONITOR, 2012. Men’s Grooming in the UK [online] Available via: Euromonitor [Accessed 28 November 2012]

PRYCE, J, 2012. 100 Beards – 100 Days [online]. Port Magazine. Available at: http://www.portmagazine.com/fashion/100-beards-100-days/#.UPcvvM1nrJF [Accessed 4 December 2012]

L’Oreal, 2010. L’Oreal Men’s Grooming Report 2010 [online]. L’Oreal. Available at: http://www.loreal.co.uk/_en/_gb/pdf/LOreal_Mens_Grooming_Report_FINAL.pdf [Accessed 20 November 2012]

RICHARDSON, G, 2012. London to get its own Men’s Fashion Week(end) [online]. Telegraph. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/Article/TMG9031323/990/London-to-get-its-own-Mens-FashionWeekend.html [Accessed 5 January 2013]

L’OREAL FINANCE, 2011. [online] Available at: http://www.loreal.com/_en/_ww/index.aspx?direct1=00003&direct2=00003/00001 [Accessed 28 December 2012]

SELWOOD, D, 2011. The Rise of the Retrosexual [online] The Grocer. Available at: http://www.thegrocer.co.uk/fmcg/focus-on-male-grooming-the-rise-of-the-retrosexual/220182.article [Accessed 20 December 2012]

MINTEL, 2011. Men’s Grooming and Shaving Products [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 16 November 2012]

SKEY, D, 2012. The neo dandies: what does it take to be a modern man about town? [online] The Observer. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2013/jan/06/new-dandies-mens-fashion [Accessed 10 January 2013]

MINTEL, 2012. Men’s Toiletries [online] Available via: Mintel [Accessed 5 December 2012] STYLE SIGHT, 2012. Packaging Trend Just [online]. Available via: Style Sight. [Accessed 10 January 2012]

ST JOHN, W, 2003. Metrosexuals Come Out [online] New York Times. Available at: http://www.nytimes.com/2003/06/22/style/metrosexuals-come-out.html?pagewanted=all&src=pm [Accessed 13 December 2012]

STYLE SIGHT, 2012. Packaging Trend Rational [online]. Available via: Style Sight. [Accessed 10 January 2012]

TAGRA, 2012. [online] Available at: http://www.tagra.com/products [Accessed 30 November 2012]

WGSN, 2012. Men’s Grooming: Euromonitor Study [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 1 December 2012]

TRENDHUNTER, 2012. 12 Bearded Beaus [online]. Trendhunter. Available at: http://www.trendhunter.com/slideshow/bearded-men [Accessed 4 December 2012] TUTTLE, B, 2012. Hey buddy got an eye shadow I can borrow? [online] TIME.com. Available at: http://business.time.com/2012/06/25/hey-buddy-got-any-eye-shadow-i-can-borrow/ [Accessed 3 January 2012] TYRIMOU, N, 2012. Euromonitor reveals keys to unlocking lucrative men’s grooming market [online] Cosmetics Design. Available at: http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/MarketTrends/Euromonitor-reveals-keys-to-unlocking-lucrative-men-s-grooming-market [Accessed 4 December 2012] ULLSTEIN, W, 2011. Interest in male beauty brands rises [online] Marketing Week. Available at: http://www.marketingweek.co.uk/interest-rate-in-male-beauty-brands-rises/3030118.article [Accessed 3 December 2012] WALKER, H, 2008. Because he’s worth it – Make up for men [online] The Independent. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/because-hes-worth-it--makeup-for-men923391.html [Accessed 5 January 2012] WILLSHER, K, 2012. Saville Row meets Paris chic as forges cross-channel couture [online]. The Guardian. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2012/may/06/the-kooples-paris-fashion [Accessed 27 November 2012]

magazines ESHUN, E, 2012. Welcome to Beardlandia. Esquire, November, p134-138.

films

Kilbourne, J, 2010. Killing Us Softly [film].

interviews BROWN, P, 2012. Interviewed by: ROBERTS, E (1 December 2012) CHAPUIS, T, 2012. Interviewed by: ROBERTS, E (29 November 2012).

GRANT, P, 2012. Interviewed by: ROBERTS, E (10 December 2012).

KINSEY, C, 2013. Interviewed by: ROBERTS, E. (10 January 2013).

MCDONALD, J, 2012. Interviewed by: ROBERTS, E (1 December 2012).

blogs

WALKER, J, 2012. Interviewed by: ROBERTS, E ( 29 November 2012).

FASHION & POWER, 2011. The Kooples [online] Available at: http://fashionandpower.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/kooples.html [Accessed 27 November 2012] MYA, 2012. The TOWIE effect impacts cosmetic surgery trends [online] Mya. Available at: http://www.mya.co.uk/cosmetic-surgery-news/the-towie-effect-impacts-cosmetic-surgery-trends/ [Accessed 15 December 2012]

WRIGHTY, S, 2013. Interviewed by: ROBERTS, E. (3 January 2013)

THE GROOMING GURU, 2012. Lab Series BB Tinted Moisturiser SPF35. The Perfect grooming product. Almost. [online] The Grooming Guru. Available at: http://groomingguru.co.uk/2012/02/24/lab-series-bb-tinted-moisturiser-spf35-the-perfect-groomingproduct-almost/ [Accessed 29 December 2012] TRENDS MAGAZINE PARIS, 2010. The Kooples [online]. Available at: http://trendsmagazineparis.com/tag/the-kooples/ [Accessed 27 November 2012]

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figure 1. Costas Voyatzis, (2012), Barber Brush [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.yatzer.com/Yatzer1900-The-Barber-Shop-Kiehls-Greece [Accessed 09 January 13].

Figure 2. Leo Fuchs, (1978), Leaning smoking portrait [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.leofuchsarchives.com/paul-newman/portraits/2356623 [Accessed 10 January 13].

Figure 3. Costas Voyatzis, (2012), Razor blades [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.yatzer.com/Yatzer1900-The-Barber-Shop-Kiehls-Greece [Accessed 09 January 13].

Figure 4. Elizabeth Roberts, (2013), Methodology.

Figure 5. Frank P. Wartenberg, (2012), Maik Eichhorn [ONLINE]. Available at: http://eyesofdj.tumblr.com/post/26707634279/rarespecimen-maik-eichhorn [Accessed 05 January 13].

Figure 21. Ersoy Alap , (2012), Elias Petrakis [ONLINE]. Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/post/26617412334/elias-petrakis [Accessed 03 January 13].

Figure 22. Bench and Compass , (2012), Smoking man [ONLINE]. Available at: http://benchandcompass.tumblr.com/post/24047334191 [Accessed 15 January 13].

Figure 23. Unknown , (2011), Karsten Gruenberg [ONLINE]. Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/post/28559373546/karsten-gruenberg [Accessed 19 January 13].

Figure 24. Jonathan Pryce, (2012), Roy, Cecil Court [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.anothermag.com/current/view/2327/100_Beards_100_Days [Accessed 20 January 13].

Figure 6. Elizabeth Roberts, (2013), Iconic Men. Figure 7. Gianni Bruccoleri, (2004), Luca Calvani [ONLINE]. Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/post/36747088904/luca-calvani [Accessed 10 January 13].

Figure 8. Elizabeth Roberts, (2013), Cultural Contexts.

Figure 25. Habanero, (2012), Hiding in plain sight [ONLINE]. Available at: http://designspiration.net/image/1389458132304/ [Accessed 12 January 13].

Figure 26. Elizabeth Roberts, (2013), The Beards.

Figure 9. Vineet Kaur, (2012), Soap [ONLINE]. Available at: http://designspiration.net/image/1205108720586/ [Accessed 08 January 13].

Figure 27. Jean Paul Gaultier, (2012), Jean Paul Gaultier S/S 11 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://nymag.com/thecut/2010/06/shaggy_beards_in_at_jean_paul.html [Accessed 21 January 13].

Figure 10. Unknown , (2013), Exposed brick bathroom [ONLINE]. Available at: http://pinterest.com/pin/566749934326733847/ [Accessed 11 January 13].

Figure 11. Slimmer Jimmer, (2007), Bathroom cabinet [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/slimjim/2096049266/ [Accessed 16 January 13].

Figure 28.Vivienne Westwood, (2012), Vivienne Westwood A/W 12 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://nymag.com/thecut/2012/01/fall-2012-menswear-beauty-trend-beards.html [Accessed 21 January 13].

Figure 12. Clarins, (2010), Will Chalker [ONLINE]. Available at: http://models.com/work/clarinsclarins-men-ss-09 [Accessed 14 January 13].

Figure 29. Patrick Mohr, (2012), Patrick Mohr A/W 12 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://nymag.com/thecut/2010/06/shaggy_beards_in_at_jean_paul.html [Accessed 21 January 13].

Figure 13. Blogy Building, (2009), Clinique Men's Supplies [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.blogybuilding.com/2011/12/clinique-skin-supplies-for-men-review/ [Accessed 29 January 13].

Figure 30. Paul Smith , (2012), Paul Smith A/W 12 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://nymag.com/thecut/2010/06/shaggy_beards_in_at_jean_paul.html [Accessed 21 January 13].

Figure 31. Daniela Alessandrini, (2012), Daniela Alessandrini A/W 12 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://nymag.com/thecut/2010/06/shaggy_beards_in_at_jean_paul.html [Accessed 21 January 13].

Figure 14. Lab Series, (2011), Lab Series Max LS [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.elcompanies.com/pages/lab-series.aspx [Accessed 07 January 13].

Figure 32. Hermes, (2012), Hermes A/W 12 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://nymag.com/thecut/2010/06/shaggy_beards_in_at_jean_paul.html [Accessed 21 January 13].

Figure 15. Elizabeth Roberts, (2013), Microtrends.

Figure 16. Nathaniel Goldberg , (2008), Patrick Petitjean [ONLINE]. Available at: http://nymag.com/fashion/models/ppetitjean/patrickpetitjean/#slide10&ss1 [Accessed 05 January 13].

Figure 33. Yohji Yamamoto , (2012), Yohji Yamamoto S/S 11 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://nymag.com/thecut/2010/06/shaggy_beards_in_at_jean_paul.html [Accessed 21 January 13].

Figure 34. Martin Margiela, (2012), Martin Margiela A/W 12 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/maison-martin-margiela-aw [Accessed 13 January 13].

Figure 17. L'oreal Biotherm Homme , (2011), Biotherm Homme [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.apetogentleman.com/brands/biotherm-homme/ [Accessed 18 January 13].

Figure 18. L'oreal Biotherm Homme , (2011), Biotherm Homme Products [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.apetogentleman.com/brands/biotherm-homme/ [Accessed 18 January 13].

Figure 35. Schewi & Herzblut, (2012), Barber [ONLINE]. Available at: http://designspiration.net/image/1390743704204/ [Accessed 09 January 13].

Figure 36. Zeitgeist , (2012), Fabian S [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.boomtheagency.it/Models/2-261/FABIAN-S.html [Accessed 02 January 13].

Figure 19. Tagra, (2012), Microencapsulation technology [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.tagra.com/rnd™-microencapsulation-0 [Accessed 20 December 12].

Figure 37. Elizabeth Roberts, (2013), Paul Brown.

Figure 20. Aesop , (2012), Tubes [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.aesop.com/uk/skin-care.html [Accessed 18 December 12].

Figure 38. Elizabeth Roberts, (2013), James McDonald.

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Figure 39. Elizabeth Roberts, (2013), Nick Revill.

Figure 40. Elizabeth Roberts, (2013), Patrick Grant.

Figure 41. Aslan Malik, (2011), Justice League of America [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.behance.net/gallery/Justice-League-Of-America/6518217 [Accessed 11 January 13].

Figure 42. Aesop, (2012), Aesop Bottles [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.aesop.com/uk/about_aesop/ [Accessed 22 January 13].

Figure 43. Emma Smith, (2010), Matt Merrell [ONLINE]. Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/post/36747033438/matt-merrell [Accessed 24 January 13].

Figure 44. Grey Hand Gang , (2011), Bottles [ONLINE]. Available at: http://designspiration.net/image/170611985890/ [Accessed 06 January 13].

Figure 45. The Kooples, (2012), The Kooples Magazine [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.thekooples.co.uk/ [Accessed 17 January 13].

Figure 46. Unknown, (2011), Bo Roberts [ONLINE]. Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/post/36745800912/bo-roberts [Accessed 23 January 13].

Figure 47. Benjamin Garner, (2012), Waller Creek [ONLINE]. Available at: http://designspiration.net/image/1335654043460/ [Accessed 02 January 13].

Figure 48. Taylor Pemberton, (2012), Liquid Gold [ONLINE]. Available at: http://cavalier.tumblr.com/post/31740877063 [Accessed 12 January 13].

Figure 49. Elizabeth Roberts, (2013), Bottle design.

Figure 50. Bruce Weber , (2009), Ambrose Olsen [ONLINE]. Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/post/10732465103 [Accessed 28 December 12].

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appendix appendix one - interview with patrick grant

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Interviewee: Patrick Grant, Director of Norton & Sons and E. Tautz.

Interviewer: Myself, Beth Roberts Date: 10th December 2012, 11am.

PG: Hello?

BR: Hello, Is that Patrick? Its Beth.

PG: Oh, hi! How are you?

BR: I’m good thank you, are you ok?

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PG: Yeah, I’m very good thanks.

BR: Good, I’ve just a few questions to ask you, which will massively help the research part of my report.

PG: Ok BR: Can I ask if you are ok to consent to anything you say now being recorded and used within my dissertaion.

PG: Of course, go ahead.

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Interviewee: Patrick Grant, Director of Norton & Sons and E. Tautz.

Interviewer: Myself, Beth Roberts Date: 10th December 2012, 11am.

BR: So basically I do Fashion Communication and Promotion in Nottingham, and for our final research report it can be on any topic we want, and mine is looking at the future of male grooming. And obviously part of that, that I have already picked up on is how the beard has made a huge comeback over the past few years, and I thought you would be a great person to ask their opinion on it. As I’ve seen loads of stuff recently involving you on the topic of beards.

PG: Oh god yes [laughs] The amount of times I’ve been asked by magazines about beard info. Of course, go ahead.

PG: Hello?

BR: Hello, Is that Patrick? Its Beth.

PG: Yeah, I’m very good thanks.

PG: Erm I, I don’t know. I think its been going even longer than that. I think the first time I did a big beard piece was in the Financial Times, which a guy called Charlie Porter wrote. Erm, and I think that was probably three years ago. So Charlie is about as forward thinking as any journalist in Britain. But he, that was one of the first big one that I did. And I think, im sure you can Google it, but it was a piece about how various stylish men have been wearing beards.

BR: Good, I’ve just a few questions to ask you, which will massively help the research part of my report.

BR: Yea.

PG: Ok

PG: And ive had mine for about seven years. But I think at the time Charlie was writing about various actors and I think at some point I think Prince William had had a beard, and you know there was whole kind of creeping group of what he considered to be quite stylish men who had started wearing them. And I think from there it just sort of spread, you know. And it bled into the cooler corners of London, and then so you know you have all sorts of different groups of people. I mean now when youre out and about, I mean its mostly the fashion world, and in the creative industry, theres loads of men with beards. I was in a taxi on the way to something the other day and there was three men, and we all had beards. Erm, so, definitely, I mean it feels like a massive trend, it doesn’t feel like something that will just disappear.

PG: Oh, hi! How are you?

BR: I’m good thank you, are you ok?

BR: Can I ask if you are ok to consent to anything you say now being recorded and used within my dissertaion.

PG: Of course, go ahead.

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BR: So, over the past year, the beard has seen a huge comeback amongst men; do you think its for any particular reason?

BR: So basically I do Fashion Communication and Promotion in Nottingham, and for our final research report it can be on any topic we want, and mine is looking at the future of male grooming. And obviously part of that, that I have already picked up on is how the beard has made a huge comeback over the past few years, and I thought you would be a great person to ask their opinion on it. As I’ve seen loads of stuff T H E F U T U R E recently involving you on the topic of beards.

PG: Oh god yes [laughs] The amount of times I’ve been asked by magazines about beard info. Of course, go ahead.

BR: So, over the past year, the beard has seen a huge comeback amongst men; do you think its for any

BR: Definitely, do you personally like the popularity of it at the moment? Or did you prefer it when it was less popular.

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PG: Hmmm [laughs] The reason I wear it is not necessarily because I think its cool, its because actually it’s a shit load easier than having to shave it everyday! [laughs] So I, you know, I trim it once a week and the rest looks after itself. Whereas if you have it clean shaven, you have to shave it everyday, and that’s a pain in the arse. It’s a convenience more than anything else.

actors and I think at some point I think Prince William had had a beard, and you know there was whole kind of creeping group of what he considered to be quite stylish men who had started wearing them. And I think from there it just sort of spread, you know. And it bled into the cooler corners of London, and then so you know you have all sorts of different groups of people. I mean now when youre out and about, I mean its mostly the fashion world, and in the creative industry, theres loads of men with beards. I was in a taxi on the way to something the other day and there was three men, and we all had beards. Erm, so, definitely, I mean it feels like a massive trend, it doesn’t feel like something that will just disappear.

BR: Definitely, do you personally like the popularity of it at the moment? Or did you prefer it when it was less popular.

PG: Hmmm [laughs] The reason I wear it is not necessarily because I think its cool, its because actually it’s a shit load easier than having to shave it everyday! [laughs] So I, you know, I trim it once a week and the rest looks after itself. Whereas if you have it clean shaven, you have to shave it everyday, and that’s a pain in the arse. It’s a convenience more than anything else.

PG: I think men tend to want things that are specific, they like to think that whatever they’re using is the best possible thing for that problem. They want to best science for each bit, so if this could be done yes.

An interesting thing I think will be moustaches which a few people in fashion wear and a few kind of Hipster types in East London wear. It hasn’t quite caught on yet, even though for Movember, loads and loads of men wear a moustache, I think there is quite a bit of stigma attached to it. But I definitely think it is something that will be the next natural step. Men are very slow moving in general, there slow to adopt things and when they do they stick with them for a really long time. That’s a fundamental difference between men and women.

BR: Definitely. Brilliant, that’s everything for my beard questions. I jut have a few quick fire questions, which I’m hoping you will let me create a consumer profile based on them in report.

BR: Do you go to a barbers or anything for it be styled?

PG: No, not at all. I have my own clippers at home that I clip it with.

PG: Yea of course.

BR: Right, ok.

BR: So, in a short phrase how would you describe your personal style?

PG: Although my barber will do it when I go.

BR: Yes. PG: When I go for my hair he will give it a quick trim.

Br: I see. Do you erm, do you have a beard icon or someone that you really look up to in terms of if I could have that beard, that’s what I’m really going for.

PG: No, not really although it changes at different times of the year. Like at the moment ive got a bit of a longer moustache just because I wanted it to look a bit different to my normal look. But, you know If it was anyone I guess it would be, erm, there’s loads of good royal beards!

PG: Oh gosh, the trouble is it changes all the time. The great thing about fashion is erm, you know that your personal style evolves and changes all the time. At the heart of everything I wear it always comes back to tailoring and then I layer lots of different things on top of that depending on how I’m kinda of feeling. And I guess it all boils down to and the end of the day I’m a big fan of tailoring and most of what I do starts there and then I add different elements. I like very British or historical feels. Sorry that’s a bit of a long answer [laughs] BR: [laughs] That’s fine! Erm, at the moment currently who would you say are your top three lifestyle brands?

PG: Of anything in the world, I guess, I like Bentley, or Land Rover. And I really like Prada. I don’t tend to buy very much!

BR: Ive also been speaking to, I don’t know If you know Jonathan Pryce, the author of the book 100 Beards, 100 Days?

BR: As a style icon, whose wardrobe would you steal?

PG: Oh yea yea yea, I do know him!

PG: Probably the duke of Windsor! [laughs] Because everything he had was created by the most incredible people in the world.

BR: Yes, Ive been speaking to him as well and I asked him whether the beard was something that has longevity, was it something that would be here a while or is it maybe going to soften out a little bit. Erm and he sort of predicted that the beard will still be a strong look until around 2015. Do you agree with him or do you think or do you think its something that’s a bit more classic and will be around for a lot longer?

PG: I don’t know about that, I think it will be around a lot longer than that. I think the world moves really slowly, and I think you know we forget, and I forget that were in the world of fashion where stuff moves quickly, and people are doing things quickly and drop them quickly. And you know in both here and in New York, its really taking, I think its still taking off. And the fact is, its not something that’s so scary, and its not going to make its way out into the rest of the UK just yet. I think that you walk around the city centres in places like Manchester and Liverpool and you still don’t see it. I think its got the possibility of getting much bigger than that. For example, this year Gillette launched a beard trimmer, this tells you that they are taking it incredibly seriously, as this is a company whose whole business is about having the cleanest shave possible. The fact that they’ve launched a beard product, they think its here to stay yep.

BR: When I first started out my whole research project. In terms of where I was looking at the future of male grooming going, something I was looking at quite closely is how a lot of men are going in almost the opposite direction of being masculine and going down a very feminine route, with the development of male skincare and things. Erm, do you personally find that skincare is just as important for you as it is for women? Do you take care of your skin?

PG: Yea I do yea. I don’t use very much but I do use a moisturiser. I don’t use any other products but I have used a moisturiser for 25 years. I think its very important.

BR: And at the moment are magazines and blogs something you take time to read?

PG: No [laughs] Not really, I mean, no I don’t I tend to look at the shows. But I think a lot of blogs just regurgitate information and they are fed PR, and as soon as they get successful they start to be endorsed in the way that magazines are; they are just paid to advertise.

BR: In music, are there any musicians or bands that you love?

PG: Yea absolutely loads, shed loads. I listen to music a lot but it would be so hard to draw up the list.

There are things that I always go back to, and listen to time and again, Bowie, Blondie, , The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Radiohead, erm, at the moment Arcade Fire and Metronomy; all manner of stuff!

BR: a great mixture! And my last question is…what is the one thing you coudnt live without?

PG: My bicycle.

BR: Brilliant thank you very much PG: [laughs] BR: That was the quickest answer, you knew that for sure!

PG: Yes! Right well I hope that was helpful?

BR: Yes definitely, thank you very very much.

BR: Ah good. Because what it was I have been looking at is are the gender boundaries that are being broken down with there being a lot of men’s products being quite close to a cosmetics product than an actual skincare product.

PG: No worries, good luck.

PG: Oh yea, theres all sorts, theres foundations and everything. I mean men can almost get everything that is available for women, but its just re-packaged. Also, you’ve know got like body hair trimmers and things like that which definitely sits on the kind of boundary…erm. And Philips did a whole grooming thing last year that’s again around this whole thing about men’s hair and shaving. Which is really quite an advanced thing.

PG: Bye bye.

BR: Thank you, bye.

BR: Well, one of the big things im really looking into is how there is now loads of product innovation in terms of men’s skincare and grooming. Erm, and theres been a lot of talk of combining products for where a man could treat both his hair and his skin at the same time. Do you already use a product that conditions your facial hair at the moment?

PG: I don’t know, I don’t actually do anything on that, although I should. I do have this beard elixir that I use about once a month, when I can remember [laughs] But no I don’t use very much on, certainly not on a day to day basis.

BR: Hmm. Say if erm a product could be made that combined these two elements would that be something that you would be really into because it would just be a case of putting it on all over like moisturiser.

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appendix appendix two - interview with joely walker

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appendix three- interview with jonathan pryce

appendix four- interview with steve wrighty

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appendix appendix five - interview with tom chapuis Interviewee: Tom Chapuis, The Kooples sales assistant, London.

Interviewer: Myself, Beth Roberts Date: 29th November 2012, 2.30pm

BR: Hiya, I’m doing a research report for university and was hoping to do a case study on The Kooples, would I be ok to ask you a few questions?

TC: Yeah of course you can!

BR: Brilliant thank you, would I be ok to get consent for anything you say being recorded and maybe used within my report?

TC: Sure, no problem.

BR: Ok, so my report focuses on male grooming and men s views surrounding it. Do you find that men shop in the store differently because there is a female influence within the store as well?

TC: Yes, definitely. I don’t think it alienates men, but if anything makes the atmosphere a lot more relaxed and because we have mixture of male and female staff we find that men don’t mind asking lots of questions. And because the female range is quite masculine anyway it’s not like the male customers are overpowered with feminine colours.

BR: Excellent thanks. With the new sports collection being successful do you think that The Kooples will be expanding it any other areas in the future?

TC: It gets spoken about a lot at meetings etc. Erm. And from the feedback we get its found that The Kooples is a brand willing to take risks in expanding into new exciting areas in the near future. So yes hopefully something new could be on the horizon.

appendix six- male public questionnaire

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appendix seven- tracking opinion formers JAMES MCDONALD

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appendix seven- tracking opinion formers PAUL BROWN

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appendix eight- consumer profile Interviewee: Nick Revill

Interviewer: Myself, Beth Roberts Date: 20th December, 2012. 8pm

IN A SHORT PHRASE HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE? My personal stvle is skate and hike with class and heritage thrown in. One of my mates coined the phrase - revill, you look like a skater who is just about to climb a mountain haha.

DO YOU THINK YOU FIT INTO A PARTICULAR STYLE ‘TRIBE’?

I don’t know the names of style tribes but I suspect I do as I share common interests with my friends.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE FASHION BRANDS? Nike SB, Universal Works and Garbstore.

WHOSE WARDROBE WOULD YOU STEAL? Steve McQueen.

WHAT MAGAZINE AND BLOGS DO YOU READ? Laid back blog, Potholes in my blog, A grumpy old man with a beard blog, trendhunter, TED, resident advisor. I also pick up GQ quite often and enjoy sunday supplements but do not religiously buy them.

WHAT BANDS/MUSICIANS/DJ’S DO YOU LOVE? DJ Shadow, Q-Bert, Mr Scruff, DJ Krush, J.Dilla, The Roots, Mos Def, Jill Scott, Bonobo, Radiohead, UNKLE, Thom Yorke.

WHAT IS THE ONE BELONGING YOU COULDN’T LIVE WITHOUT? Macbook.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE ITEMS IN YOUR CLOTHING/SHOE COLLECTION? Loake 1880 brogues (the best brogue ever), Garbstore uscs 30’s jacket, lastly believe it or not a one true saxon sample ‘plumbers jacket’. It’s a really good jacket and sadly one of the last things they ever made. Another great Nottingham company gone to the wall.

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appendix nine- tutorial sheets

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appendix ten- ethical checklist

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