to the legal maximum of 125° for many other American whiskey styles, but the distillers behind Empire Rye say that’s for a reason. According to the website, “Low barrel entry proof was a standard practice in the pre-prohibition northeast ryes. In fact, 100° proof was the norm for barreling. It made a very different and — we believe — more flavorful whiskey.” History seems an important component of the fabric of Empire Rye. The website calls the classification an homage to “New York State’s pre-Prohibition rye whiskey-making heritage,” which was, by all accounts, a tremendously successful operation. Rye flourished in the region’s craggy ground, and the distillation of grain was a well-known way to preserve your crop. Unfortunately, Prohibition bested the area in the end, leaving the neglected stills gathering dust for good. As a category, Empire Rye aims to honor the region’s past, but it also offers a hand in defining its future. In an interview, Colin Spoelman, co-founder and head distiller for Kings County said that he had read somewhere that “70% of all rye sold in the U.S. is distilled at MGP in Indiana.” In truth, there are dozens of distilleries selling MGP rye, the 95% mash bill being a very popular option from the Indiana facility. Spoelman saw the categorization of Empire Rye as a way to set him and other New York producers apart from the world of other rye whiskeys. It would be a vehicle that gave credence and value to the bottles that bore its sign. It is exciting to watch American producers define their own
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guidelines. Considering the sheer number of regional spirits that exist in Europe, which is very nearly the same size as the United States, we are ripe for greater levels of geographical and historical classification within our country. The American Single Malt Commission, established in 2016, is striving to create a consistent standard of identity for American Single Malt whiskey that can be applied both domestically and internationally, but is it possible that we can reach even deeper? Underneath the umbrella of American Single Malt, could regional varieties join the ranks? And what about categories like brandy? Could we have our own styles of production, and accompanying appellations, rivaling that of Armagnac and Calvados? It certainly would be a turnaround for a community that has, over the past few decades, been producing without geography at the fore of its mind. In the meantime, look out for a bottle of whiskey that bears the mark of Empire Rye and taste it if the opportunity arises. As regional ryes with distinctive mash bills and styles of production, each offering is likely to aspire to an original flavor. Kings County, for instance, bottles their Empire Rye whiskey at 102 proof, while Finger Lakes Distilling finishes their McKenzie Rye in sherry barrels from local wineries. At the very least, you know you’ll be supporting a product that is active in its regional ecosystem, and I think that’s something worth celebrating.
Visit www.empirerye.com for more information.
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