Africa & Middle East Textiles Issue 1 2013

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ISSUE FOUR 2012/ ISSUE ONE 2013 QUATRIÈME EDITION 2012/PREMIERE EDITION 2013

Spotlight on Iran Uses of technical threads Heimtextil 2013 review Pleins feux sur L’Iran Utilisations diversifiées des fils techniques Révue de Heimtextil 2013

Textile pre-treatment Pre-traitement de textile

Types of technical threads

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The IDC Textiles Unit provides development finance to

enabling environment through co-funding; facilitating

the highly labour-intensive textiles, clothing, leather and footwear manufacturing sectors in the South African

collaboration and expansion. The Textiles Unit also promotes improvement of the industry’s value chain

economy. The focus is on providing asset finance and/or working capital to start-ups, expansions and

for increased competitiveness.

modernisation of existing businesses.

If you have the true entrepreneurial spirit and a project

The Textiles Unit of the IDC plays a proactive role in

that can contribute to creating jobs and building South Africa’s industrial capacity, visit www.idc.co.za to find out how the IDC can help you.

building industrial capacity while contributing to an

Chillibush9154IDC

Stitching it all together

Telephone: 086 069 3888 Email: callcentre@idc.co.za To apply online for funding of R1 million or more go to www.idc.co.za

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CONTENTS DEVELOPMENTS

4

News of recent textile projects, markets, contracts and events

DEVELOPPEMENTS

4

Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats

SPOTLIGHT ON IRAN

6

Iran’s carpet industry thrives despite threats

PLEINS FEUX SUR L’IRAN

6

L'industrie du tapis de l'Iran prospère malgré les menaces

TEXTILE PRE-TREATMENT

12

PRE-TRAITEMENT DE TEXTILE

12

Les tendances dans le prétraitement de tissu de coton de bio-basé

Trends in bio-based cotton fabric pre-treatment

DYES AND CHEMICALS

14

HEIMTEXTIL 2013

TEINTURES ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES

14

Le marché de colorants textile s'est dirigé vers un demain plus brillant

Textile dyes market headed for a brighter tomorrow

18

Review of the mega home and contract expo

HEIMTEXTIL 2013

18

La revue de l'expo méga de maison et de contrat

APPAREL AFRICA

20

Diversified uses of technical threads

REVUE D’HABILLEMENT

20

Utilisations diversifiées des fils techniques

Cover: Textile Pre-treatment Inset: Technical Threads

Couverture: Pre-traitement De Textile Inset: Fils Techniques

Managing Editor: Kasturi Gupta Editorial and Design team: Bob Adams, Lizzie Carroll, David Clancy, Andrew Croft, Prashanth AP, Ranganath GS, Rhonita Patnaik, Ian Roullier, Genaro Santos, Zsa Tebbit, Nicky Valsamakis, Julian Walker and Ben Watts Publisher: Nick Fordham Magazine Sales Manager: Annabel Marx Tel: +27 21 8519017, Fax: +27 46 6245931 E-mail: annabel.marx@alaincharles.com

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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE FOUR 2012 / ONE 2013

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TEXTILE NEWS Iran to begin developing hi-tech spacesuits THE AEROSPACE RESEARCH Institute (ARI) of Iran has revealed plans to manufacture hi-tech spacesuits. According to a statement given by the ARI head Mohammad Ebrahimi to Iranian news agency Mehr News, the Iranian institute has been planning to send human beings to its future space missions.

ARI has already embarked on the project of spacecraft production and hopes to master the technical knowhow of spacesuit design and development in the next eight years.In cooperation with the Shiraz Mechanics Research Institute, the institute is currently engaged in the development of the highly-expensive space gear.

African textile sector draws more investments from China CHINA HAS REVEALED plans to invest directly in Africa and also shown an increasing tendency to control the entire supply chain. A study, by the French Federation of knitwear by Fatex launched at the Zoom exhibition in Paris, noted that the Chinese have shown a tendency to purchase cotton fields to secure supplies or construct mills and garment factories in Africa by Chinese labourers.

Between January and August 2012, China’s exports to Africa rose by 12 per cent compared to the same period in 2011, reaching US$9.8bn.

Chinese companies have settled in Ghana, Kenya, Lesotho, Madagascar, Malawi, Mauritius, Tanzania, South Africa. In Zimbabwe, a recent investment of US$30mn was made to create a Chinese joint venture in a cotton mill.

Libyan textile exhibition attracts 85 global firms LIBYAN TEXTILES AND clothing fair in Tripoli attracted participants from 85 global firms majorly located in Turkey, Egypt, Italy and Tunisia.

According to Libyan official Ahmed al-Akari, the fair, which took place in February 2013, extended a good opportunity for domestic clothing and textile traders to develop direct contacts with their industry counterparts and buyers.

The fair followed the adoption of a free market policy by Libya, which has opened up the Libyan market to north and sub-Saharan African nations.

Libya has extended a market for countries like Chad, Niger, Sudan, Mali, Tunisia and Egypt.

Ethiopian textile export to touch US$227.5 million in 2012-13 THE ETHIOPIAN TEXTILE Industry Development Institute has announced that the country’s total textiles export for the year 2012-13 will be expected to amount to US$227.5mn. The country has earned US$35.6mn in the second half of 2012 from textile-related trade. Ato Bantihun Gessese, PRO of the institute, said that the amount has been earned from the export of clothing, readymade garments, sheets and yarns to African, Asian, European and US markets.

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TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER April 2013 9-12

Source Africa www.sourceafrica.co.za

9-11

2013 AATCC International Conference www.aatcc.org/ic/index.cfm

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA

GREENVILLE, USA

May 2013 6-7

Outlook Conference 2013 www.surtex.com

19-21

SURTEX 2013 www.surtex.com

19-30

Spun: Adventures In Textiles Exhibit www.denverartmuseum.org

29-30

Filtrex Asia www.edana.org

SOUTH CAROLINA, USA

NEW YORK, USA

DENVER, USA

KOREA

June 2013 10-13

Texprocess 2013 www.texprocess.com

10-13

ShanghaiTex 2013 www.shanghaitexonline.com

11-13

Techtextil 2013 www.techtextil.com

FRANKFURT, GERMANY

CHINA

FRANKFURT, GERMANY

July 2013 16-18

Texworld USA www.texworldusa.com

NEW YORK, USA

17-18

SPINEXPO www.spinexpo.com

NEW YORK, USA

August 2013 25-27

SURTEX Asia www.surtexasia.com

SHANGHAI, CHINA

September 2013 3-5

SPINEXPO Shanghai www.spinexpo.com

8-10

ITMF Annual Conference 2013 www.itmf.org

SHANGHAI, CHINA

AUSTRIA

October 2013 3-5

Techtextil India 2013 www.techtextil-india.co.in

11-13

2013 Textile Sustainability Conference www.textileexchange.org

23-25

Advanced Textiles Conference & Trade Show www.ifaiexpo.com

24-25

India Composites Show www.indiacompositesshow.com

MUMBAI, INDIA

ISTANBUL, TURKEY

FLORIDA, USA

NEW DELHI, INDIA

Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy (Commercial Office) of the country in question.

Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE FOUR 2012 / ONE 2013

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TEXTILE NEWS Nigerian textile industry gets fund boost THE NIGERIAN GOVERNMENT has decided to offer financial help to the textile industry for a rapid recovery and upgrade of the sector.

As part of the government’s efforts, the Nigerian Cotton, Textile and Garment (CTG) Industry received a sum of US$650mn from the Bank of Industry (BOI) for reviving the ailing textile industry.

This was a move by the federal government under the Cotton, Textile and Garment Revival Scheme to ensure a rapid resuscitation of the entire CTG value-chain.

At least 38 textile firms have so far benefitted from the government’s Cotton Textile and Garment Revival Scheme and led to the saving of more than 8,070 jobs.

At a recent workshop in Abuja, Jaiyeola Olarenwaju, director general of Nigerian Textile Manufacturers Association, said the government’s lack of consistent policy direction, lack of protection of nascent home industry due to globalisation and liberalisation policies, high interest rate, among others had contributed to the sharp decline of activities in the sector.

However, with BOI funding, stakeholders present at the workshop were positive about the present revival efforts in the sector, which they said indicated that ‘brighter days’ were just months away.

Nigerian minister of trade and investment Olusegun Aganga

Minister of trade and investment, Olusegun Aganga, noted, “Unfortunately by 2008, the textile factories still in operation had reduced to 24 textile mills and 10 ginneries employing less than 25,000 people and with exports less than US$50mn.”

Aganga said that in 2010, BOI was mandated to initiate steps to reverse the progressive industry collapse and ensure a rapid resuscitation and upgrading of the entire Cotton Textile Garment, CTG, value-chain.

VETRI TOP ROLLERS TEXTILE SPINNING NEEDS

Mauritius inks deal with India for co-operation in textile sector THE MAURITIUS EXPORTERS Association (MEXA) has inked a memorandum of understanding (MoU) with the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) to establish co-operation in the field of fashion and textile design promotion.

The MoU will also extend to areas of staff education and training through effective knowledge network of textile professionals India has assured support for and industry representatives. Indian development of the textile sector in Mauritius commerce, industry and textiles minister Anand Sharma met with the Mauritian Prime Minister Navinchandra Ramgoolam during his visit to the island nation in late 2012, and stressed on the need for deepening and diversifying textile trade and investment ties between the two countries. It was agreed that a joint working group on textile trade and investment would meet before April 2013 and work out the modalities for broadening and deepening the economic engagement between the two countries. Sharma assured complete support for the development of the textiles sector in Mauritius.

He also said that an Indian delegation in the textiles sector will visit Mauritius shortly to establish institutional linkages.

He further announced that 1,000 trainees from Mauritius would be provided training for skill development in the textiles sector and 10 factories in Mauritius would be taken up by the Apparel Export Promotion Council for compliance with the requirements of quality certification.

Another MoU was signed between Apparel Export Promotion Council and Enterprise Mauritius that would help to enhance cooperation in compliance standards and improve competitiveness in the industry. promotion capacity.

Nigeria was ranked the second largest textile hub in sub-Saharan Africa after South Africa representing 63 per cent of the textile capacity in the West African sub-region before the neglect and policy inconsistencies capsised the sector in mid 1990s.

Talking about growth potential, Aganga said that the sector held strong potential due to its natural cotton endowments, large market size and legacy sector knowledge.

The minister further stated that the potential to export to regional and select developed markets (such as the United States under the African growth and opportunity Act) were also very attractive.

Aganga added, “Our aspiration for the textile and apparel industry is to increase its domestic market share from its present position of 12 per cent to 25 per cent by 2020. We also expect this sector to create over 60,000 direct jobs within this period.

“To achieve this, the strategic thrust requires reviving the entire value chain. This includes strengthening the base by boosting cotton production for use in the domestic sector and potential exports, supporting existing players to expand their current operations and attracting strong brands to set up local manufacturing operation in the country.”

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TECHNOLOGY – QUALITY – VALUE – RELATIONSHIP

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE FOUR 2012 / ONE 2013

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SPOTLIGHT ON IRAN

Iran’s carpet industry thrives despite threats The Persian carpet business continues to remain an essential part of Iran’s art, culture and trade despite ups and downs in demand and pricing

R

UGS AND CARPETS from Iran, mostly made by hand in villages across the land from Isfahan to Khorasan and Tabriz, are treasured because of their quality and rarity. In terms of design such as elaborate rosettes or use of rich ruby-red dyes and, materials like wool, cotton,silk and high knot-count, the “Persian carpet” is a highly prized commodity wherever it reaches.

Weavers from Pakistan, Turkey and even China are major competitors of the Persian weavers though only few can meet the sheer quality and standard of original Iranian carpets. Hence, the high prices at which these individual pieces change hands, whether in the Arab Gulf (where the world’s largest carpets are sold), the wealthiest corners of the European Union, or the USA. Unfortunately, a trade embargo prevents them legally reaching the USA right now, but plenty of these handcrafted gems cross those shores courtesy of third-country sales, some maintain.

The result is that woven floor (and other surface) coverings are easily the largest exportable items coming from Iran’s impoverished rural areas – and the second-most valuable nationwide export after energy products.

Iran’s million-plus carpet weavers are believed to produce somewhere between one-quarter and one-third of globally traded handcrafted carpet sales in terms of value; even when the overall recorded weight goes down (as it has done in some

Weavers from Pakistan, Turkey and China are major competitors of the Persian weavers

recent years, due to the American move), that value goes on rising, as it did by several points last year.

Hence the mood reported from the week-long 21st Handmade Carpet Fair in Tehran at the end of September 2012 was extremely confident and positive. This annual trade exhibition is organised by the Iran National Carpet Center (www.irancarpet.ir). SPN Co’s annual Irantex Technical Fair (machinery, materials and fabrics)

Most of the Persian carpets are sold in foreign markets at extremely high prices

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took place a couple of weeks later.

Of course the handmade carpet trade, most of whose premium products are sold abroad, fits within a much larger general textile exporting business, recently valued at around US$1bn annually (WTO figures, 2010).

Unlike the self-sufficient handmade sector, this accounted for crippling imports of US$603mn in that year. Most of these imports were generated by Iran’s factory-scale operations which have to rely heavily on home-derived technology – in urgent need of an update and much more foreign direct investment therefore.

However, being ‘cottage’ based and associated with a truly magnificent product range, the greater part of the carpet industry suffers from none of the handicaps faced by struggling yarn, fabric and apparel manufacturers operating in investmentstarved Iran these days. These include aged plant, low productivity, outdated management practices and a poorly-developed local supplier network.

The industry employs mostly rural weavers and knot workers (both flat and pile pieces are made by hand) active in poorly-lit facilities in some of the most impoverished parts of the country. These highly-skilled artisans, many of whom are women, work at simple horizontal looms, which produce movable rugs (Gelim or Kilim), usually with that delightful slight inconsistency of weave and knot

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE FOUR 2012 / ONE 2013

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SPOTLIGHT ON IRAN

structure that produces the prized handcrafted look.

In more sedentary settings such as the large towns like Mashhad and Tabriz, vertical looms are more commonly found, more comfortable to work at and capable of producing much larger (room-size and more) individual pieces, some of which are intended as decorative wall hangings.

Small factories nationwide use this type of equipment, too.

Several types of standing loom are found, all adjusted tension-wise with traditional hand-inserted wooden wedges. Uniform long carpets with repeating patterns can be produced accurately and consistently this way.

Obtaining reliable figures about the value and trends within this thriving industry is not easy because of the lack of central organisation, the troubles that persist on the country’s borders and the general ‘fog’ that surrounds Iranian business in general. This increased through 2012 as both Europe and the US tightened the trade sanctions they impose. However, the National Carpet Center monitors the situation regularly and says that exports in the last calendar year were valued at around US$560mn, a figure which the authorities

are hoping to double within the next two years.

Most figures are reported in ‘splityear’ terms because the recording period begins in March, and sales are typically strongest in the second half, after the annual Tehran fair.

No one claims that doing business in Iran is easy, and industrial producers of all scales there report difficulties in sourcing investment funds, supplies and up-to-date technology.

However, courtesy of business links in the Gulf, information and communication technology is being used to design the more intricate handmade pieces today, and the sheer quality and scarcity of the traditional product ensures there will always be a buoyant market despite the problems with doing business in this proud, huge but under-pressure nation. ❑

Persian carpets make a mark at Tehran expo PERSIAN SILK CARPETS left a lasting impression on minds of people at the Persian carpet exhibition at Milad Tower in Tehran recently. More than 1,000 pieces of exquisite Persian hand-made silk items, prepared in three of the Iran’s leading carpet producing cities – Qom, Tabriz and Isfahan, were on display at the expo. The premium pieces ranging from luxury tableau rugs and carpets to nomad rugs were

priced from US$500 to US$100,000. Carpetweaving has been one of the most famous Iranian heritage which dates back to ancient Persia. Iran exports carpets to more than 80 countries in Europe, North and Latin America and some other parts of the world.

Currently, there are over one million weavers in Iran, producing carpets for domestic and international markets. They produce about five

million square metres of carpets on an average every year.

While Iran’s hand-woven rugs have been one of its main non-oil export items, the country provides three quarters of the world's total output.

Having its roots in ancient Persia, carpet-weaving art is one of the most renowned expressions of Iranian heritage with over one million weavers depending on it for their livelihood.

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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE FOUR 2012 / ONE 2013

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PLEINS FEUX SUR L’AFRIQUE DU SUD

Le moment du redressement est venu pour les fabricants de textiles sud-africains L’essor de la consommation en Afrique du Sud a conduit à un pic des importations de textiles.

Les entreprises textiles et d’habillement nationales ont répondu à cette demande en essayant d’attirer des investissements étrangers avec des produits spécialisés ’AUGMENTATION DE LA concurrence à laquelle les industriels d’Afrique du Sud ont dû faire face après la fin de l'accord Multifibre, qui déterminait des quotas sur les exportations des pays en voie de développement vers les pays riches, n'existe plus désormais. Par conséquent, les secteurs du textile et de l’habillement sont bien plus en mesure de répondre au pic d’importation en Afrique du Sud par l’innovation et la spécialisation. À première vue, les derniers chiffres du commerce international sont décevants. Freinées par la concurrence chinoise et les marchés difficiles en Europe et en Amérique du Nord (textiles et fibres), les exportations sont restées plus ou moins constantes depuis 2000, aux alentours de 250 millions de dollars US par an.

Cependant, les ventes d’habillement à l’étranger ont chuté de façon constante au dessous de la barre des 200 millions de dollars US, tandis que les importations ont grimpé en flèche en passant de 223 millions de dollars US en 2000 à 1 363 millions en 2010, d’après les chiffres de l’OMC. La Coupe du Monde a été le principal moteur de cette poussée des importations dans le pays, et la Chine est l’acteur principal à l’origine de cette poussée liée au sport. Cependant, d’autres pays d’Afrique ont également pris pour cible le marché de la consommation sud africain apparemment en plein essor.

Tout ceci s’est payé, naturellement, par un déficit commercial général relativement faible soutenu par toutes les exportations rentables de minerais durs, vers la Chine en particulier.

Mais, sur la base des performances des matières premières dures cette année, cette situation pourrait se retourner.

Ainsi, les secteurs nationaux du textile et de l’habillement représentés par des acteurs mondiaux importants, tels que Associated Spinners, Da Gama Textiles, Cordustex Manufacturing , et différentes entreprises du groupe Frame ont certainement diminué dans l’ensemble, mais ils sont toujours capables d’attirer des investissements étrangers pour assurer une croissance future reposant sur leurs produits de niche spécialisés, tels que les fibres synthétiques de qualité technique et l'habillement / tissus

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Les textiles domestiques et les entreprises de vêtements ont rétréci en général, mais ils attirent toujours des investissements internationaux avec les produits spécialisés

d'ameublement haut de gamme.

La majeure partie de cette recherche de capitaux cible avec succès les fonds souverains et les sources d’Extrême-Orient qui apprécient l’adhésion de l’Afrique du Sud à la loi américaine African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), ainsi que son infrastructure sophistiquée, y compris au niveau de l’informatique et des services bancaires en particulier. Environ un bon milliard de dollars a été consacré à cela depuis le milieu des années 1990, quand la perspective de menace sur le changement après-MFA a commencé à se profiler.

Dans ce mouvement en avant, bien sûr, la « nation arc-en-ciel » n’est pas seule. En tant que nouveau membre de l’organisation BRICS, l’Afrique du Sud est l’une des rares économies d’Afrique de taille/revenus moyens, encore émergeantes. En tant que telle, le pays considère la production textile à forte main d'œuvre comme un peu désuète, même si elle contribue encore de façon extrêmement positive aux chiffres de l'emploi.

Tout comme à l’île Maurice, la base économique de l'Afrique du Sud a évolué. Les exportations de cet état insulaire très prospère ont aussi été réduites de presque un tiers depuis l'an 2000.

Bien entendu, beaucoup dépend de ce qui va se passer en matière économique, à la fois au niveau local et international. Une croissance assez régulière a été maintenue tout au long de cette période pratique d’observation de dix ans, avec un taux de 2,5 à 3 pour cent, durable mais pas excitant (d’après les standards subsahariens) prévu pour 2012. Les hausses des prix à la consommation se sont maintenues autour de la barre haute des cinq points, et les taux d’intérêt ont baissé de manière satisfaisante ces derniers temps.

En attendant, la valeur du rand de la plus haute importance au niveau international - qui influence les échanges commerciaux dans toute l’Afrique australe, ainsi que les exportations encouragées par le SA Textile Industry Export Council - a enregistré favorablement son niveau le plus bas depuis quatre ans par rapport au dollar, pour se situer actuellement autour de 8,3 Rand/Dollar, en comparaison du taux de 6,77 qui paralysait les exportations il y a juste un an.

Le système bancaire national très respecté a réussi à éviter la plupart des récentes crises mondiales, et le seul nuage très sombre à l’horizon commercial est le niveau extrêmement élevé de chômage qui affecte bien évidemment les travailleurs féminins des secteurs textile et

TEXTILES AFRICAINS ET DU MOYEN ORIENT 4ÈME EDITION 2012/1ÈRE EDITION 2013

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PLEINS FEUX SUR L’AFRIQUE DU SUD habillement plus que les autres.

Des organismes de surveillance économique, tels que la Banque mondiale, le FMI, le Forum économique mondial (en particulier avec leur classement très utile de la compétitivité des économies africaines) et le cabinet Ernst & Young (attractivité) notent régulièrement l’Afrique du Sud mieux que ses concurrents sub-sahariens.

Certains font remarquer qu'en termes d'importance économique, le Nigeria est en train de rattraper rapidement. Mais la nomination il y a quelques semaines seulement d’un sud-africain à la tête de l’influente Union africaine a fait la fierté du pays.

Dans ce contexte mixte, l’Export Council fait remarquer que l’ensemble des industries du fil textile, des textiles, de l’habillement, du matériel technique et de l’ameublement constituent « les secteurs les mieux établis de l'économie sudafricaine en matière de fabrication... [en ayant] acquis une reconnaissance internationale dans cette spécialisation ».

L’organisme officiel DTI souligne le service spécial qu’il offre aux PME et micro entreprises, celles des minorités noires et celles dirigées par des femmes. Ceci est spécialement important pour le secteur de l'habillement menacé par les importations et soumis aux conditions actuelles particulièrement difficiles.

Brother Internationale Industriemaschinen GmbH Düsseldorfer Strasse 7-9 46446 Emmerich am Rhein Germany

Le fil, les vêtements de tissu, et les matériels techniques et d'ameublement d'intérieur se trouvent dans le secteur de textile africain du sud qui ont gagné la reconnaissance internationale pour la spécialisation

« Sur la base de notre passé africain et sudafricain, nous pouvons répondre à votre demande de produits qui nécessitent quelque chose de plus » affirment-ils avec confiance (pour plus de détails, www.satiec.co.za ; les chaussures et produits en cuir dépendent d’un Export Council séparé).

Le seul événement consacré aux textiles et à l’habillement que nous avons pu trouver d’ici la fin de l’année est le salon combiné « Garments & Textiles Johannesburg » (avec « Fashion & Accessories ») qui se tiendra dans la capitale économique du 28 au 30 novembre.

Significativement, ce salon organisé par

Global Sources de Hong Kong sera sans doute centré sur l'activité en plein essor avec la Chine (appeler le +852 8199-7308 pour plus d’informations). Pour des informations concernant des événements de promotion commerciale plus généraux, tels que la série « Indaba », rendez-vous sur www.eventseye.com Nous garderons le mot de la fin pour le site Internet de SATIEC avec son lien www.designafrica.info et l’initiative des huit nations, Design Africa. « Une nouvelle génération de créateurs... apparaît au premier plan, et ils sont prêts à montrer au monde le véritable talent du continent. » ❑

Phone: +49 (0) 2822-609-0 Fax: +49 (0) 2822-609-50 E-Mail: info@brother-ism.com Web: www.brother-ism.com

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S02 AFTEX 1 2013 Country Feature_Layout 1 08/03/2013 09:52 Page 10

TEXTILE NEWS Nigeria may become India’s textile export destination AT LEAST 22 Indian textile companies have expressed interest in exporting their products to Nigeria.

The companies, which participated in an Indian Textile Exhibition in Lagos have been eyeing the Nigerian markets as a possible destination for their products, Nigerian daily BusinessDay reported.

The exhibition, tagged INTEXPO, was held in Nigeria for the first time by the Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council of India in association with the High Commission of India in Nigeria.

The companies displayed their latest range of textile products ranging from yarn and fibre to suiting, shirtings, dress materials, embroidered fabrics, high fashion fabrics, furnishings, home textiles, scarves and shawls.

Untill now, trade between India and Nigeria was restricted to nonferrous metals, metalifers ores and metal scraps, wood and wood

Indian companies have been eyeing the Nigerian markets as a possible destination for their products

products and cashew nuts.

India-Nigeria bilateral trade went up by 34 per cent in 20102011 from US$12.9bn to US$17.3bn in 2011-2012. The textile trade is expected to bring a new dimension to the bilateral ties between the two countries.

According to the high

commissioner of India, Mahesh Sachdev, “INTEXPO is aimed at forging win-win partnership among the Indian and Nigerian companies for effective linkages.”

He explained Indian textiles and clothing industry output was around US$80bn of which around US$35bn was exported.

No Turkish tariffs on Egyptian cotton now TURKEY HAS CANCELLED protective tariffs on cotton yarn imports from Egypt from 1 January 2013.

Egyptian minister of industry and foreign trade Hatem Saleh recently revealed this saying that the move will boost Egyptian exports of thin yarn. He added that thicker yarn would face stiff competition from Indian and Pakistan due to decreases in cotton prices in those countries.

Egyptian yarn exports will also benefit from the customs exemption granted under a free trade agreement between Cairo and Ankara. Lower transport costs for Egyptian exports will give its yarn an advantage over competitors from Southeast Asia.

The minister added that the Turkish decision has terminated the quota system that had previously regulated Egyptian exports to the Turkish market. Egyptian yarn exports to Turkey from 2007 to 2011 amounted to some US$66.2mn for 7,790 tonnes, 51 per cent of which were imported under the quota system.

Retailers make a beeline to Ethiopia for sourcing textiles A GROWING NUMBER of retailers have shown a preference for sourcing textiles and clothing materials from Ethiopia with the country’s textile industry undergoing a major expansion.

Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) has become the latest high street giant to begin purchasing textiles and garments from Ethiopia as November 2012 records have shown. UK retailers Tesco, George and Primark had also began sourcing from Ethiopia earlier in 2012.

The Ethiopian Textile and Garment Manufacturers Association (ETGMA) revealed to global apparel and textile business magazine Just Style that H&M was now sourcing knitwear from the MAA Garment & Textile Factory, based in Mek’ele in northern Ethiopia, and part of the Kebire Enterprise group.

ETGMA president Fassil Tadesse said he believed that more top retailers will source from Ethiopia in the coming years, adding that the UK now accounted for 10 per cent of Ethiopia’s textile and garment exports, with other countries in Europe taking 50 per cent and the US taking 40 per cent.

Ethiopia’s textile and apparel exports for the 12 months to the end of June 2012 grew 28 per cent to US$84.6mn, according to Tadesse.

However, he admitted that this was way behind the industry target of US$150mn, adding that meeting the target of growing exports by 60 per cent to US$212mn for the 12 months from July 2012 to June 2013 will be “very challenging.”

The textile and garment sector in Ethiopia is currently under growing pressure to expand more rapidly with the Ethiopian government setting ambitious goals for the industry.

In 2007, it had set a target for the industry of increasing its annual earnings to US$1bn by 2016. It also said that it hoped to attract foreign direct investment worth US$1.6bn to build 191 new textile and clothing plants during that time.

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More top retailers are expected to source materials from Ethiopia in the coming years

Tadesse said these goals were “on track,” with a growing number of manufacturers from overseas, especially Turkey, India and China, investing in the country along with local companies.

Tadesse added that several other major overseas textile and clothing companies are set to invest heavily in Ethiopia over the next few years.

He, however, admitted that the global economic downturn had led to slower growth for the industry over the past year, and that the speed of the industry’s development needed to increase in order to meet its targets.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE FOUR 2012 / ONE 2013

S02 AFTEX 1 2013 Country Feature_Layout 1 08/03/2013 09:52 Page 11

TEXTILE NEWS Uster’s new online interface to help in better understanding of yarn quality USTER HAS LAUNCHED an online interface to help users understand how a yarn will perform in a processing sequence by matching the yarn quality parameters against Uster Statistics values.

The new online tool offers notable improvements, with extra features and additional yarn styles.

The tool includes S3 hairiness measurement which is the quality parameter for ring and compact yarns, referring to the number of fibers protruding by three millimeter and more.

This breakthrough was enabled with the launch in June 2010 of the Uster Zweigle HL400, taking S3 hairiness classification to the next level. This instrument offers improved accuracy and now operates at test speeds of 400 m/min.

Analysis of yarn hairiness is vital for many textile applications, as hairiness has a significant influence on both the appearance and durability of fabrics. Experience with textile fabrics has shown that 15 per cent of unacceptable fabric defects such as pilling are caused by high levels of hairiness or hairiness variations.

In weaving, yarn strength and elongation are very important yarn characteristics, as also is the degree of variation in these characteristics.

The elongation values shown in the Uster interface are measured by the Uster Tensojet 4, which has the testing power to forecast yarn performance accurately. It measures tensile strength over 100,000 breaks, at a rate of 30,000 breaks per hour which means it can detect yarn faults or isolated weak places.

ENGINEERING FOR NONWOVENS Modern projects for improving infrastructure in road and railway construction require soil stabilization by goetextiles.

Complete staple fibre web forming and needling lines produce a wide range of geotextile materials.

Anti-microbial sewing thread promises bacteria resistance around seams THREAD MANUFACTURER COATS has launched a new range of anti-microbial sewing threads that inhibits the growth of microbes and bacteria around seams.

The treated sewing threads, which have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties, will be marketed under the name ‘Coats Protect’.

The thread treatment solution was developed in Coats’ North American laboratories and it guarantees to deliver maximum protection from microbes when applied to Coats’ high quality thread products.

Many Coats product developments in threads, zips and colour technology, as well as manufacturing processes, are currently part of industry standards. Coats chief commercial officer Frazer Smith said, “We work towards developing new products and services that meet our customers’ ever-changing needs. We are excited about Coats Protect, which is another example of our strong research and development programme.”

The anti-microbial treatment creates a “zone of inhibition” that helps prevent the growth of odour and stain-causing bacteria and pathogens around the seam. The treatment is available around the world for Coats’ thread and will provide peace of mind and enhanced product quality for our customers and consumers.Anti-microbial thread can be used in a wide range of sewing applications. Its benefits include helping keep products sterile, preventing product deterioration, fighting mould and mildew and providing stain resistance.

Many products, such as athletic footwear, hospital furnishings, operating theatre beds, muscle supports, hospital gowns, military tactical vests, helmets and outdoor goods need continued protection from fungi and odour causing bacteria, making them ideal applications for Coats Protect.

VE drafting unit to achieve MD:CD strength ratio of 1:1.

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DiloGroup P. O. Box 1551 · 69405 Eberbach / Germany Phone +49 6271 940-0 · Fax +49 6271 711 42 www.dilo.de · info@dilo.de

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TEXTILE PRE-TREATMENT

Trends in bio-based cotton fabric pre-treatment

by Ian Holme

C

HEMICAL PRE-TREATMENT OR preparation consists of a series of treatments that are given to greystate (greige or ecru) fabrics in order to remove natural colorants, impurities and contaminants prior to dyeing, printing or finishing.

For cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics, chemical processing treatments may include one or more of the following: singeing, desizing (woven fabrics only), scouring, bleaching, mercerisation or anhydrous liquid ammonia treatments.

Over the last two decades there has been a progressive shift away from the harsh chemical pretreatments of the past which have involved strong alkaline solutions and chlorine-based bleach systems towards gentler, but still highly-efficient, pretreatments that lead to a lower weight loss and to a softer handle. In particular, the use of enzymatic treatments has introduced novel and innovative approaches to pre-treatment that are more sustainable because they save on water, energy and waste water treatment costs and are regarded as more eco-friendly.

and scouring, or even bleaching is carried out in order to save on processing time to increase machine productivity, as well as to economise on the consumption of water, chemicals and energy.

It is well-known that fabrics intended for open width pad dyeing must be well-prepared, particularly in terms of the uniformity of wettability and absorbency, in order to achieve level dyeing. The paler the colour to be dyed, the more critical is the overall uniformity of fabric whiteness after pre-treatment.

Pre-treatment chemicals and auxiliaries are carefully formulated in order to provide optimised removal and suspension of impurities in the pretreatment liquor as well as preventing localised redeposition of impurities back onto the fabric.

Surfactants, detergents, wetting agents, chelating and sequestering agents for heavy metal ions, bleach stabilisers and accelerators, alkali and fluorescent brightening agents are selected for appropriate pre-treatments, as well as enzymes and bleaching systems.

Modern pre-treatment systems Modern fabric pre-treatment systems are designed to provide fabrics that are of uniform whiteness, absorbency and wettability. The type and number of pre-treatments given to a fabric is dependent upon the subsequent coloration and finishing treatments to be carried out. Woven cotton fabric destined for hot exhaust dyeing may only require singeing, desizing and scouring, whereas fabrics destined for high whites will require bleaching and treatment with a fluorescent brightening agent.

Great emphasis is now placed upon combined pre-treatment systems whereby singeing, desizing

Singeing Singeing can be carried out in cotton and other cellulosic fibre fabrics e.g. viscose, modal and some lyocell fabrics, but many finishing companies use cellulase enzyme treatments to degrade the surface fuzz on the fabric surface.

While cellulase treatments are effective on 100 per cent cellulosic fabric, polyester/cellulosic blends still require singeing because the cellulase enzymes do not degrade polyester fibres. If the fabric is very hairy then the fabric surface may be sheared prior to singeing in order to prevent the longer projecting

polyester fibres from melting back during singeing to form undesirable hard polymer beads that can be felt during handling and which can dye differently to the main body of the fabric.

Enzymes The warp yarns of woven cotton fabrics are usually sized with starch-based sizes. Amylase enzymes are widely used for desizing starch-based sizes because their action is specific for starch and the cotton fibres are not degraded. Genencor (Palo Alto, California, USA) has developed a new generation, low impact liquid amylase termed Optisize Cool. This novel enzyme has been engineered for lower-medium temperature desizing covering a wide pH range. It is designed for application in both cold-batch and in exhaust (garment washing) processes.

Novozymes A/S (Bagsvaerd, Denmark) now has a range of three enzyme solutions for desizing starch-based sizes. These are supplied in ready-touse or concentrated forms. Complete removal of all types of starch-based sizes can be accomplished using Aquazym LT-L (ready-to-use)/Aquazym 240 L (concentrate). A second range consists of Aquazym AT-L/Aquazym Ultra 1200N, which provides high-efficiency across a wide range of pH and temperature.

Aquazym SD-L/Aquazym Prime 1200L is also claimed to provide a robust eco-friendly desizing solution. Aquazym LT-L/Aquazym 240L are normally applied at 30-60째C in the pH range 5.56.5. Aquazym AT-L/Aquazym Ultra 1200N are applied at 50-90째C in the pH range 6.0-7.5, and Aquazym SD-L/Aquazym Prime 1200 L can be used in the pH range 5.0-10.0 and at temperatures from 20-85째C.

Scouring

Novozymes' fermentation facility in Kalundborg, Denmark.

Enzymes are produced by fermentation of microorganisms

12

Novel enzymes for bio-scouring are leading to innovative and more environmentally-friendly scouring processes for cotton-containing fabrics.

Bio-scouring utilises pectinase enzymes that degrade the pectin in the cotton that then allows easier removal of the cotton waxes that render raw cotton hydrophobic.

Sera Zyme C-PE (DyStar, Singapore) is a pectinase enzyme suitable for bio-scouring of weft knitted cotton fabrics produced from combed cotton yarns. Applicable to both 100 per cent cotton and polyester/cotton knitted fabrics, Sera Zyme C-PE avoids the need to use large quantities of caustic soda and acid-based rinsing agents, normally required for conventional alkaline scouring. A comparison conducted on bioscouring and alkaline scouring of 600kg of cotton

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE FOUR 2012 / ONE 2013

S03 AFTEX 1 2013 Dyes and Chemicals_Layout 1 08/03/2013 09:57 Page 13

TEXTILE PRE-TREATMENT fabric demonstrated that the Sera Zyme C-PE process offered significant savings in process time (7.3 per cent), water (15.9 per cent), electricity (11.3 per cent) and steam (19.6 per cent).

Another enzyme for bio-scouring is Novozymes' Scourzyme 300L, which is a pectate lyase enzyme that degrades the pectin in cotton into soluble compounds. Applied at 60°C, Scourzyme 300L requires no rinsing or neutralising steps prior to dyeing and cotton yarn can be scoured in half the time required for traditional alkaline scouring. Importantly, the yarn weight loss was only 3.3 per cent compared with 5.7 per cent for alkaline scouring. In addition, the carbon footprint is improved with CO2 emissions being decreased by around 1,000kg per ton of yarn.

Prima Green Ecoscour is a novel enzyme for bio-scouring from Genencor which is claimed to yield 30 per cent savings in water and 60 per cent savings in energy compared with standard cotton scouring treatments. This pectate lyase enzyme treatment utilises milder processing conditions resulting in improved fabric quality and better absorbency. Another important factor for fashion apparel is that Prima Green is claimed to enhance the colour brightness after dyeing.

Bleaching systems Traditional chlorine-based bleaching systems, based on sodium hypochlorite and sodium chlorite, have been in decline over the last two decades because these lead to the production of AOX (absorbable organo-halides) in the waste water, and chlorine-based bleaching systems are regarded as less eco-friendly.

While alkaline hydrogen peroxide bleaching is the main chemical bleaching method currently in use, the enzyme producers are starting to introduce alternative enzyme-based bio-bleaching systems that offer some significant advantages.

A major innovation is Huntsman Textile Effects’ (Singapore) novel Gentle Power Bleach system.

This is based upon the latest breakthrough in enzyme technology by Genencor and the Gentle Power Bleach system was awarded the prestigious German ‘Industriepreis 2010’ in the biotechnology category. This highly-rated bio-bleaching system is based upon the use of four components that enable bio-bleaching to be conducted at 65°C and under near neutral pH conditions.

The products used for bio-bleaching in the Gentle Power Bleach system comprise: ● Invazyme LTE - the enzyme used to catalyse the hydrogen peroxide bleach ● Invatex LTA - an agent that assists and boosts the action of the peroxide ● Clarite LTC - an agent with combined excellent wetting detergent and dispersing properties ● Invatex LAB - a liquid buffer used for maintaining an optimum pH The Gentle Power Bleach system results in a lower weight loss, a softer handle and leads to improved fabric strength retention after chemical cross-linking finishes have been applied and cured.

Over the last two decades there has been a progressive shift away from the harsh chemical pre-treatments to a softer handle

This bio-bleaching system is claimed to be a more sustainable, eco-friendly enzyme-based pretreatment system that can provide a 25 per cent lower climate change impact compared with traditional hydrogen peroxide bleaching.

The Gentle Power Bleach system is applicable to all types of closed equipment. Fabrics may be bio-bleached in jet, overflow and jig machines while yarns may be treated in package dyeing machines. Recipes appropriate for bio-bleaching have been formulated for both low liquor ratio processing at 1:4-1:6 and for high liquor ratio (1:81:12) processing.

Bio-bleaching is normally carried out at 65°C for 50 minutes, followed by draining and rinsing twice in separate baths for 10 minutes at 50°C. Where woven fabrics and terry towelling fabrics are to be pre-treated, Huntsman Textile Effects have recommended the addition of an enzyme, Invazyme ADC, which promotes the enzymatic desizing of starch-based sizing materials.

An important aspect of peroxide bleaching treatments is the use of catalase enzymes that are used to decompose any residual peroxide remaining in the fibres, because these can lead to undesirable shade changes if the fabric is subsequently dyed with reactive dyes. Two types of catalase enzymes are generally in use. Those based upon bacterium micrococcus luteus are generally applied at pH 5-11 and temperatures of 20-50°C. These catalases are highly efficient in decomposing peroxide residues but at high peroxide levels they can be inactivated. Catalases based upon fungal Aspergillus niger normally operate in the pH range 3-10 and in the temperature range 20-70°C. This type of catalase is more resistant to oxidation by peroxide and therefore can be used where high-levels of residual peroxide are present. The catalase enzyme used with Huntsman's Gentle Power Bleach system is a stabilised liquid catalase, namely Invazyme CAT. Prochimica Novarese SpA (Italy) showcased its novel EASYWHITE eco-friendly bleaching

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE FOUR 2012 / ONE 2013

system at ITMA 2011, Barcelona. This chemical bleaching system uses a wetting/detergent/sequestering auxiliary EASYWHITE AC/JET and a peroxide activator EASYWHITE ACTIV-N. In this bleaching system, the hydrogen peroxide bonds with the EASYWHITE ACTIV-N to form a new and complex molecule, capable of reaction with the fabric at a lower temperature under moderate pH conditions e.g. pH 9.5-12. Bleaching trials on raw cotton have demonstrated that bleaching can be carried out at 80°C, some 15-20°C lower than traditionally used. Viscose/elastane fabrics could be bleached at 60-70°C compared with 80-90°C conventionally.

With the EASYWHITE bleaching process, Prochimica Novarese claim a reduction of 20 per cent in bleaching time as well as saving in water costs of 5-10 per cent and in energy of 10-20 per cent.

Cotton fabrics bleached using the EASYWHITE system have a softer handle enabling less fabric softener to be required in subsequent finishing. There is less fibre damage and reduced pilling.

It is clear from all these developments that pretreatment systems for cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics are moving into a transitional phase whereby bio-based pre-treatments are being introduced that could ultimately replace the harsher chemical pre-treatments using strongly alkaline conditions. The fabric weight loss with bio-based pre-treatment is lower and the cellulosic fibre degradation is less. In addition the milder temperature/pH conditions are more sustainable, requiring less rinsing and neutralisation with acid.

The enzymes are also biodegradable in waste water treatment systems, and there are cost savings in terms of water, energy and water treatment costs.

Further progress in enzyme technology may yet lead to a new generation of enzymes for more sustainable desizing, bio-scouring and biobleaching processes that enable even lower and milder treatment conditions to be used. ❑

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COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES

Le secteur des colorants textiles se dirige vers des lendemains meilleurs Par Ian Holme ES INNOVATIONS TECHNOLOGIQUES, le consumérisme grandissant, la croissance de la population et les évolutions concernant la mode sont destinés à influencer de façon importante le secteur des colorants pour textiles. Un rapport publié par Global Industry Analysts (GIA) et intitulé « Colorants textiles : Rapport d’activité stratégique mondial » a prévu que le marché des colorants textiles va atteindre 5,9 milliards de dollars US de chiffre d’affaires d’ici 2017.

Au cours des cinq dernières années, l’industrie de fabrication des colorants a dû faire face à plusieurs situations problématiques. En 2008-2009, toutes les entreprises chimiques spécialisées dans les textiles ont subi des hausses de prix des matières premières, ainsi qu’une baisse de la demande dans le secteur textile. En raison de l’utilisation intensive des matières premières dans cette industrie, les marges de profit ont été impactées défavorablement. De plus, des pressions croissantes sur les prix, de même que des coûts d’énergie et de transport élevés, couplés à une sous-exploitation de la capacité ont conduit à toute une série de hausses et de baisses, selon GIA. La tendance émergeante dans le secteur des colorants textiles a consisté délocaliser les centres de production à coût élevé, basés aux États-Unis et en Europe, vers les pays asiatiques à bas coût.

Le secteur des colorants textiles espère des lendemains meilleurs résultant des innovations en matière de colorants et de produits chimiques écologiques, ainsi que de l’intérêt croissant pour les performances élevées des nouveaux matériaux. Les fabricants de colorants et les producteurs de textiles sont en train de développer des produits et des procédés innovants afin de se conformer aux réglementations environnementales strictes.

Les dépenses en matière de recherche et de développement ont également été reconnues comme étant un facteur important pour soutenir de telles innovations.

Selon GIA, le marché le plus important et présentant la plus forte croissance pour les colorants textiles est la région Asie-Pacifique.

Au sein de cette région, la Chine, Taïwan et la Corée ont une emprise sur les teintures par

L

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dispersion, avec la Chine en première position en ce qui concerne la production et l’exportation de colorants réactifs, directs, par dispersion, acides et basiques.

L’Inde quand à elle tient une position dominante dans la production des colorants réactifs. L’industrie de la teinture en Inde affiche une croissance rapide grâce à l’aide de son industrie chimique développée, couplée à un esprit d’entreprise élevé et à une disponibilité suffisante des matières premières. En termes de valeur de vente, GIA affirme que les colorants réactifs représentent

le plus grand segment sur le marché mondial des colorants textiles.

Il était évident qu’à partir des développements présentés au ITMA 2011 (salon international de la machinerie du textile), que le message, affirmant que l’innovation en matière de colorants et produits chimiques écologiques peut induire des améliorations spectaculaires en matière de développement durable, a été pris en compte. Ces améliorations sont quantifiables en termes d’économie d’eau, d’énergie et de temps de traitement ; tous ces aspects ayant

Le secteur des colorants textiles se dirige vers les lendemains meilleurs

TEXTILES AFRICAINS ET DU MOYEN ORIENT 4ÈME EDITION 2012/1ÈRE EDITION 2013

S03 AFTEX 1 2013 Dyes and Chemicals_Layout 1 08/03/2013 09:57 Page 15

COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES un impact positif sur les marges de profit et la compétitivité internationale en raison des économies de coût induites.

La compétitivité internationale en matière de teinture, d’impression et de finition des textiles dépend grandement des éléments économiques liés au traitement des textiles par voie humide, à l'utilisation de machines et à la productivité. L’adoption des nouvelles technologies sera déterminante pour la survie et la croissance futures, et dans ce contexte, l'innovation en matière de colorants et de produits chimiques sera importante.

Développements récents en matières de colorants textiles : La croissance prévue dans le secteur des colorants a stimulé de nombreux développements. Clariant a récemment présenté un nouveau colorant acide sans métaux, Lanasyn Flavine F-5G, qui produit un jaune éclatant exceptionnel lorsqu’il est appliqué sur du polyamide, de la laine ou des mélanges de ces tissus. L’éclat de la couleur est un facteur important pour de nombreuses utilisations dans le secteur de la mode, tout particulièrement pour les vêtements de sport et les maillots de bain. Comme le colorant Lanasyn Flaxine F-5G est entièrement compatible avec le colorant turquoise de Clariant (Lanasyn Turquoise M-5G), cette combinaison offre désormais aux créateurs de tissus, ateliers de teinture et imprimeurs sur textiles, la possibilité de produire des teintes vertes éclatantes et excitantes. Cela ouvre de nouvelles opportunités à la création et à la mode qui n’étaient pas possibles auparavant, pour utiliser des jaunes et des verts éclatants sur du polyamide ou de la laine.

Les colorants Lanasyn Flavine F-5G et Lanasyn Turquoise M-5G présentent une absorption ton-sur-ton permettant de réaliser un dépôt de couleurs éclatantes sans interférences mutuelles. Le comportement de ces deux colorants à des variations de pH est similaire, de sorte que leur association convient idéalement à la coloration par modification du PH, à l'aide d'Opticid VAN liq c (Clariant). Un autre aspect important de l’utilisation de cette combinaison de colorants sur les maillots de bain en polyamide/élasthanne 80/20 est la résistance élevée à la lumière lorsqu’ils sont utilisés seuls, associée à une atténuation ton-sur-ton du Lanasyn Flavine F-5G lorsqu’il est utilisé avec le Lanasyn Turquoise M-5G. Le colorant Lanasyn Flavine F-5G est réputé offrir l'éclat le plus important de tous les colorants jaunes acides non fluorescents disponibles actuellement. Des jaunes et des verts éclatants peuvent être teints désormais sur du polyamide ou de la laine pour réaliser les mêmes couleurs que celles obtenues sur des fibres cellulosiques à l’aide de colorants réactifs.

Les fabricants ont présenté une série de colorants qui fournissent la coloration brillante au polyamide, à la laine et à leurs mélanges

Au cours des cinq dernières années, l’industrie de fabrication des colorants a dû faire face à plusieurs situations problématiques. En 2008-2009, toutes les enterprises chimiques spécialisées dans les textiles ont subi des hausses de prix des matières premières, ainsi qu’une baisse de la demande dans le secteur textile. En raison de l’utilisation intensive des matières premières dans cette industrie, les marges de profit ont été impactées défavorablement Le colorant Lanasyn Flavine F-5G offre une résistance élevée à l'humidité sur les polyamides et la laine et est recommandé pour les textiles en polyamide, polyamide/élasthanne et laine. Ce nouveau colorant acide jaune fabriqué par Clariant convient également aux systèmes d’impression CMJN. Le colorant rouge éclatant Nylosan Brilliant Red S-3R est encore un nouveau produit Clariant qui se veut dépasser les colorants textiles rouges existants, et qui se fixe en plus bien mieux pour obtenir les nuances de rouge les plus profondes. Hautement compatible avec la gamme de produits Nylosan S de Clariant, ce nouveau colorant offre une résistance des couleurs et un dépôt nettement meilleurs en comparaison des colorants CI Acid Red 131 et CI Acid Red 249. Sur un textile polyamide 6/élasthanne 80/20, le Nylosan Brilliant Red S-3R a démontré une résistance des couleurs supérieure à celle des colorants CI Acid Red 131 et 249 lors des tests suivants : test à l’eau froide conforme AATCC, test de transpiration alcaline conforme ISO 105 E04 et test de résistance

TEXTILES AFRICAINS ET DU MOYEN ORIENT 4ÈME EDITION 2012/1ÈRE EDITION 2013

au lavage conforme ISO CO6 B25.

Clariant a également introduit sur le marché trois nouveaux colorants Foron S-WF pour la teinture des polyesters. Le Foron Turquoise SWF est un colorant bleu turquoise éclatant recommandé pour une utilisation seul dans le cas de vêtements de sport, ou en combinaison avec d’autres colorants pour obtenir des verts éclatants. Le Foron Vermillion S-WF est un colorant rouge très éclatant offrant un pouvoir de coloration élevé, associé à la meilleure résistance des couleurs aux traitements humides des vêtements de sport. Le troisième colorant, Foron Atlantic Blue S-WF, est un bleu tirant sur le vert, offrant une bonne coloration du revers sur le coton. Ce colorant peut être utilisé en combinaison avec d’autres colorants pour obtenir des verts et des bleus, et également pour le contrôle du métamérisme, faisant apparaître une dominante verte sous des sources de lumière à incandescence.

Solution pour les couleurs critiques : Les nuances claires à moyennes des couleurs olive, gris, brun-rouge, kaki et beige sont

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COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES parmi les plus difficiles à obtenir sur des textiles cellulosiques, à l’aide des colorants réactifs. La solution pour obtenir de telles nuances, selon Everlight Chemical Industrial Corporation (Taïwan), consiste à utiliser leur produit Critical Colors Solution basé sur les colorants Everzol CS qui offrent une compatibilité exceptionnelle pour la teinture par épuisement.

La gamme Everzol CS inclut les colorants jaune (Everzol Yellow CS), brun-rouge (Everzol Red Brown CS), olive (Everzol Olive CS) et gris (Everzol Grey CS). Tous ces colorants Everzol CS offrent une résistance des couleurs élevée à la lumière et à l’eau chlorée, et de plus ils constituent un laboratoire sérieux pour la reproductibilité en masse et la coloration satisfaisante du premier coup.

DyStar a présenté un nouveau colorant réactif et innovant, Levafix Dark Blue CA, conçu pour que les nuances de bleu claires à moyennes résistent bien à la lumière. Il est également prévu pour être utilisé avec les combinaisons de colorants DyStar Remazol RGB/Ultra RGB, tout spécialement lorsqu’un élément bleu résistant à la lumière et économique est requis. Le Levafix Dark Blue CA présente également une résistance élevée des couleurs à l’ozone et à l’azote, couplée à une bonne résistance à la transpiration comme dans le test NIKE PLF (ISO 105 B07).

Le Levafix Dark Blue CA répond aux exigences de nombreux problèmes de l’industrie. Le marché requiert des performances élevées en matière de résistance des couleurs, de problèmes écologiques/toxicologiques et d’impact sur le développement durable, de même qu’il impose des coûts en baisse. Le Levafix Dark Blue CA offre aux ateliers de teinture une assurance en termes de résistance à la lumières établie par différentes organismes, de même qu'une coloration contrôlée. En plus, le colorant réactif est souple en ce qui concerne la technique d’application. Il est applicable par les procédés d’épuisement, de foulardage-stockage à froid ou de teinture à la continu. Il se caractérise par une migration et un unisson équilibrés, ainsi que par une bonne reproductibilité, une fixation élevée sur les fibres cellulosiques et un bon comportement au rinçage.

Dans ce contexte, le colorant Levafix Dark

Colorants et produits chimiques de Clariant

Blue CA est idéal pour le nouveau procédé Sera Eco Wash développé par DyStar. Il fait appel à un produit auxiliaire pour textile innovant, Sera Fast C-RD, un agent de neutralisation (clearing) qui accélère grandement le bain. Cet agent accélère le retrait des colorants réactifs hydrolysés à 60 °C. Ce système évolué de neutralisation du bain contribue à économiser l'eau, l’énergie et le temps de traitement, de même qu’il exerce un impact important sur la productivité des machines et la durabilité.

Colorants tri-réactifs La marque Huntsman Textile Effects a présenté sa gamme de colorants tri-réactifs Avitera SE pour application par épuisement sur des textiles cellulosiques. Leur utilisation peut être combinée avec le produit Huntsman Gentle Power Bleach System, développé conjointement avec Genencor, qui permet de blanchir le coton à 65 °C avec un pH neutre.

Par conséquent, le blanchiment à basse température peut être suivi d’une coloration réactive à chaud très courte à l’aide des colorants Avitera SE, faisant appel à un agent de neutralisation du bain très performant, l’Eriopon LT. Il en résulte que le traitement par voie humide est réalisé à des températures ne dépassant jamais 65 °C. Le colorant trichromatique Avitera SE de Huntsman Textile Effects est basé sur les colorants Avitera SE jaune (CI Reactive Yellow 217), rouge (CI Reactive Red 286) et bleu foncé (CI Reactive Blue 281). L’Avitera Yellow SE est un colorant jaune or non photochromique, l’Avitera Red SE est un colorant rouge éclatant tirant sur le bleu et l’Avitera Deep Blue SE est un colorant bleu foncé à dominante verte qui se dépose bien sur les fibres cellulosiques.

La compétitivité globale dans la teinture de textile, l'impression et le finissage est extrêmement dépendante de l’économie de traitement mouillé textile, d'utilisation de machines et de productivité. L’ embrassement de la nouvelle technologie est clé à la survie et à la croissance du secteur de teintures et produits chimiques 16

Les colorants réactifs Huntsman Avitera SE sont basés sur des compositions chimiques nouvelles et sont conçus spécialement pour la production des teintes moyennes à foncées. La haute solubilité aqueuse des colorants garantit leur application par procédé de coloration ultracourt et cycles de postrinçage. La durée du processus de postrinçage est nettement réduite en raison du degré d’épuisement et de fixation élevé des colorants Avitera SE sur les fibres cellulosiques. Par conséquent, ces nouveaux colorants réactifs procurent une diminution importante de la consommation d'eau, des économies d'énergie et autres ressources naturelles, une réduction du temps de traitement et des émissions de dioxyde de carbone, assurant une production plus respectueuse de l’environnement. Clariant a présenté quatre nouveaux colorants réactifs Drimaren : Drimaren Dark Blue HF-CD, Drimaren Blue K-RB, Drimaren Golden Yellow HF-CD et Drimaren Red CL-4B. Développé tout spécialement pour l’application par procédé de foulardage-stockage à froid et teinture à la continu, le colorant Drimaren Dark Blue HF-CD convient également pour la coloration par épuisement. Ce colorant est utilisable comme élément du procédé trichromatique Drimaren HF-CD pour les teintes moyennes à foncées sur des textiles cellulosiques. Il présente une stabilité élevée en présence de polluants atmosphériques, ainsi qu'une bonne résistance à la lumière, au chlore et au peroxyde.

L’autre colorant réactif bleu, Drimaren Blue K-RB, de couleur bleu éclatant est destiné à la production des couleurs bleu royal et violet lorsqu’il est utilisé en combinaison avec le Drimaren Red K-4BL ou le Drimaren Violet K-2RL. Les colorants Drimaren Blue K-RB et Drimaren Red CL-4B (colorant rouge éclatant très concentré) peuvent tous les deux être combinés aux éléments Drimaren HF/HF-CD et sont applicables par procédé de foulardage-stockage à froid, de teinture à la continu ou par épuisement. Le colorant Drimaren Red CL-4B peut être utilisé comme élément trichromatique dans des combinaisons économiques avec par exemple le Drimaren Yellow CL-2R, le Drimaren Aquamarine HF-CD ou le Drimaren Dark Blue HF-CD. Le colorant Drimaren Golden Yellow HF-CD (Clariant) est très concentré et convient pour toutes les teintes des plus claires aux plus foncées. Il présente des propriétés globales de résistance excellentes et constitue un élément trichromatique principal des combinaisons de la gamme Drimaren HF-CD. Il peut être appliqué par procédé de teinture semi-continue, à la continu et par épuisement, tout en fournissant de bonnes performances de coloration. ❑

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TEXTILE NEWS Middle East’s digital textile printing market gets a boost MIDDLE EAST’S DYE market is buzzing with activity as Epson forayed into the country’s dye sublimation printing market for the first time with the announcement of two roll-fed dye sublimation printers, the 44-inch SureColor SC-F6000 and the 64-inch SureColor SC-F7000.

The new printers were launched during Epson’s participation in the 16th Sign & Graphic Imaging (SGI) Middle East, the largest and the longest-running event for the region’s signage, outdoor media, screen and digital printing industries that took place from 20-22 January 2013 in Dubai.

The printers are not only the first dye sublimation models from Epson, but also the first in this sector in which every component, from ink and printhead, to printer chassis and optional accessories, are all designed and manufactured by one company providing high quality output at up to 720 x 1440dpi on all leading transfer papers. This ensures that quality, performance and reliability are all optimized for maximum productive uptime and profit, and a low Total Cost of Ownership.

The SureColor SC-F models are durable and robust roll-fed CMYK printers that support an extensive range of applications. The mid-high volume 64-inch SureColor SC-F7000 and lowmedium volume 44-inch SureColor SC-F6000

Epson’s MicroPiezo TFP Print Head, which is already an established technology within the dye sublimation sector, ensures precise and repeatable performance as well as excellent longevity. These, in conjunction with Epson UltraChrome DS ink, a speciallydeveloped new aqueous ink, produces outstanding images with vibrant colors, intense blacks, sharp contours and smooth gradations.

Epson SureColor SC-F7000Textile print produced by the dye-sublimation-printer SureColor SC-F series printers also exhibits excellent light- and washhave been developed for the efficient production fastness, as well as resistance to abrasion and of quality soft signage, sportswear, apparel, perspiration. Shihab Zubair, Epson Middle East accessories, customised promotional items and business development manager said, “Although decorated gadgets. digitisation of textile printing is still in its Innovative single-operator media loading and infancy in the Middle East, this application is set-up features, such as automatic media tensioning growing steadily. and an intuitive LCD control panel, make both “Our aim is to maximise its adoption in this printers easy and quick to set up and use. market by providing professional print sectors Both models output at speeds from 16 to with the most reliable and cost-effective 57m2/hr, depending upon application, and feature production solutions for the growing short run an integral and easily refillable, high-capacity 1.5 production, fully engineered by Epson to deliver liter ink system. consistent quality results.

Furthermore, the auto take-up roll – standard for “The new SureColor SC-F6000 and SC-F7000 SC-F7000 and optional for the SureColor SC- provide the dye-sublimation market with a choice F6000 – allows maximum uninterrupted production of printers to suit a range of creative applications, runs with minimal downtime for maintenance. backed up by Epson expertise and support.”

Optimised clothing for wheelchair athletes HOHENSTEIN INSTITUTE IN Bönnigheim, Germany is aiming to optimise functionality and comfort of sportswear for wheelchair users.

Project leader Anke Klepser, who ascertained the physical dimensions of male wheelchair basket ball players and hand bikers, said, “By choosing these particular sports we are covering both indoor and outdoor sports, which means that our research results can also be adapted to other sports disciplines.

“A further benefit is that we are examining two different body postures, the more horizontal body position of the hand bikers and the upright sitting position of the wheelchair basketball players and this enables any results to be easily transferred to other sports.”

The test persons were measured once in a stationary 3D Bodyscanner in their usual wheelchair and then also with a hand held scanner in their respective sports wheelchair.

Back in the 1980s, clothing technology experts had already captured the physical dimensions of wheelchair users in order to improve the fit of everyday clothing. With the assistance of today’s 3D scanner technology, first of all, the body can be captured in full and then a virtual twin can be compiled which can be used to measure on the computer, as required, individual body measurements such as the back, legs or arms.

An important objective of the project is to use the measurement data to optimise the cuts and seam lines of sportswear.

But also the physiological comfort, or in other words, the ability of the textiles to absorb body sweat and divert it away from the body as well as the heat insulation of the materials should also be adapted to the specific requirements of the athletes.

Skin irritations caused by mechanical actions such as friction of the

An important objective of the project is to use the measurement data to optimise the cuts and seam lines of sportswear

arms on the upper body should be minimised in the demonstration/functional samples that are to be developed.

The sitting position of wheelchair users in particular creates specific requirements for clothing cuts. In order to achieve a horizontal waistband fit, the back part of the trousers must be cut longer than the front. The horizontal position of the handbikers on the other hand requires the exact opposite in functionalities if the sportswear is to sit in the optimum position. In the majority of wheelchair athletes, the upper body and arms are very muscular which must be taken into consideration in the design of shirts and jackets. To create a good fit with extensive freedom of movement, the clothing items should therefore have adapted seam lines.

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HEIMTEXTIL 2013

Heimtextil 2013 attracts a global audience Visitors from UAE, Turkey, Great Britain, the USA, France and China made an impressive presence at the expo

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EIMTEXTIL 2013 HELD in Frankfurt, Germany, provided a platform for the exhibition of future design trends of home and contract textiles.

Around 66,000 visitors from 128 countries attended trade fair, which took place from 9-12 January 2013.

Messe Frankfurt executive board member Detlef Braun said, “Heimtextil has once again underscored its pre-eminent position as the world’s leading trade fair for home and contract textiles.

“The fair also succeeded in maintaining the number of visitors at an almost constant level despite the difficult economic climate prevailing at present.”

Heimtextil provided the perfect presentation platform, especially for export-oriented companies. Mark Kennedy, export sales manager of Britain’s textile editeurs Clarke & Clarke said, “We have been able to gain a foothold in new markets for our wall-covering collections, which we launched three years ago.

“As one of the world’s biggest textile shows, Heimtextil is a platform for making new customer contacts and cultivating existing ones. We were back again here for the first time in six years and will certainly be taking part again next year.”

Design and trends In addition to its sales potential, the trade fair was also a guide to future design trends with the ‘Trend

The themes of the fair gave visitors an overview of how emerging trends can be put into practice

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The fair was a success with a great majority of exhibitors and visitors achieving their goals of making new contacts and renewing the existing ones

Show’ that proved to be a highlight of the 2013 edition. It had four themes that catered to the spirit of the times and the complex lifestyles of

contemporary consumers.

The Stijlinstituut Amsterdam was responsible for the concept and design of the Trend Book. The themes gave visitors an overview and preview of how these trends can be put into practice. The influences of society, architecture, fashion and design merged to form a broad, firm foundation for the new trends. The Trend Show transformed them into a perfect presentation that was intensely creative and informative.

For instance, ‘The historian’ represented richness in craft as it was inspired by Western civilisation of late 16th and 17th century. ‘The eccentric’ represented free spirit and the products were flamboyant in character. ‘The inventor’ experimented with lots of texture and colours for own passion rather than focussing on others’ needs. ‘The geologist’ dug from deepest of earth hues and transformed it into the organic needs of the consumers. Nature’s love was loud and clear.

Pedro Hernando, buying department director of El Corte Inglés, Europe’s department-store chain, commented, “Here, unlike any other fair, we find a broad spectrum of products and a high concentration of important manufacturers, which forms the basis for our orders. Our designers are primarily interested in the Heimtextil Trends show, which is

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HEIMTEXTIL 2013 an important source of inspiration and offers an overview of the latest design developments.”

For the ninth year running, the ‘Heimtextil goes City’ consumer campaign attracted well over 2,000 customers and home-textile aficionados to downtown Frankfurt. Under the motto ‘Saturday is Trend Day’, 25 interior decorators, bed dealers and public institutions showed highlights from the fair and trendoriented decoration ideas.

A global forum The fair, was a success fairly as a great majority of exhibitors, about 79 per cent, and visitors achieving their goals of making new contacts and maintaining existing ones. Ricardo Lemos, member of the board of directors of António de Almeida & Filhos, a member company of Grupo More Textile in Portugal, said, “The echo was excellent. The most important people – the decision makers – were there. This makes the fair even more professional.

“The level of interest was very high, especially from the USA. Representatives of the major department stores came. For us, Heimtextil is the leading fair and the platform on which we present our latest products.”

Besides the USA and Canada, there were visitors from Russia, the United Arab Emirates, Great Britain, Ireland, Central Europe (France, Benelux, Switzerland), East Europe (Czech Republic, Hungary, Romania), China and Taiwan.

The biggest visitor nations after Germany were Italy, China, Turkey, Great Britain, the USA, France, Spain, the Russia and Poland.

With the closure and success of Heimtextil 2013, the management of Messe Frankfurt announced an addition to their international

Heimtextil reflected trends influencing the future of home textiles

portfolio of textile fairs.

“From June 2014, we will offer the market an additional business platform: Heimtextil India in New Delhi. Thus, we will further increase our position as the world’s leading organiser of textile fairs,” said Detlef Braun.

“The Indian textile market has always been an international pioneer and is currently the second biggest in the world. With the support of the Indian government and on the basis of the constant growth in domestic demand, the Indian market for

home textile continues to expand. Thus, the prerequisites of our master plan for taking the next step have been fulfilled.”

With the new event in India, Messe Frankfurt will expand its worldwide portfolio of fairs for the textile sector to over 40 and thus, bring the worldwide industry for home and contract textiles even closer together.

The next Heimtextil, International Trade Fair for Home and Contract Textiles, will be held in Frankfurt am Main from 8 to 11 January 2014. ❑

EURATEX focuses on Turkish and EU textile cooperation COOPERATION BETWEEN TURKISH and EU textile industries was the focus of the first EURATEX Convention, organised by the Turkish Textile Employers Association (TTEA) in Istanbul.

The expo, which took place in November 2012, was attended by more than 300 participants from industry, local ministries, export associations, academics and government agencies.

The theme of the show revolved around the growing role of European technical textiles application on the Middle East.

TTEA president Halit Narin said, “Turkey believes in the future of the textile, particularly in the future of technical textiles. Cooperation between the textile industries of the EU and Turkey is paramount.

“The first convention in Istanbul organised jointly with EURATEX has opened new perspectives. TTEA will intensify its support for scientific and technical projects on technical textiles.”

EURATEX president Alberto Paccanelli said that technical textiles have experienced significant development in recent years and added, “We must be proud of the intensification of European R&D projects in this highly innovative field of industry.

“Today, textile products are increasingly present in industries and are as diverse as agriculture, automotive, healthcare, energy, construction, aerospace, etc., bringing value-added solutions to the needs of those customers. Moreover, high-functionality, flexibility and cost-competitive textile products have led to the transformation of

business-models in many industries.”

A senior consultant of Gherzi (CH), Matthias Buehrer, focused on the key developments in the global technical textile market and provided an analytical look into developments and opportunities offered by the industry.

He said that according to in-house research, that technical textile applications worldwide, including composites and non-woven application represented a global market volume of US$230bn in 2010 and US$253bn in 2011.

European Union (EU) commission expert, John Cleuren, focussed on ‘Technology Policies and Technical Textiles’ and gave indications on the future EU programme for research and innovation — Horizon 2020.

He underlined the various opportunities offered for textile related projects, also available to non-EU 27 companies and research centres.

The EURATEX sessions also focused on ‘New textiles products for different industries’ as well as ‘Technical textiles and the changing lifestyle’.

At the occasion of the convention, the first TTEA Award “Innovation Competion” was also given away to raise awareness on the importance of R&D activities in the textile and clothing industry as well as promoting the development of innovative products and processes resulting from collaborative projects supported by Turkish universities and local industrial companies.

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APPAREL Africa and the Middle East

Achieving the perfect seam is a balance of many needle, thread, stitch type, density and machine settings

Diversified use of technical threads Niki Tait looks at some special threads for technical textiles

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ECHNICAL TEXTILES ARE gaining importance all over the world. They are increasingly replacing traditional materials in challenging production areas with their diversified uses. This has resulted in a difficult task for thread manufactures as they require specialised threads, not only to sew these materials together, but also to produce a seam which will not break down in extreme environments.

They need to be flexible, functional, costefficient, durable and environmentally-sensitive, in manufacturing as well as application and end use.

Chemical and resistant threads

temperature-

Gore® Rastex® fibers sewing thread, developed

by W.L. Gore & Associates, for example, is made from 100 per cent expanded PTFE and has been engineered specifically for the demands of filtration applications, to withstand exposure to chemicals, high temperatures, abrasives, and moist environments. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is a

20

synthetic fluoropolymer of tetrafluoroethylene. It is a fluorocarbon solid, as is a high-molecularweight compound consisting wholly of carbon and fluorine and has one of the lowest coefficients of friction against any solid.

The manufacturer claims Rastex is ideal for hot gas filtration in the energy, minerals, chemicals and metals industries. Unaffected by moist environments, it is equally well-suited for electrolytic cells and other liquid filtration applications. It combines excellent chemical resistance, superior strength, greater flexibility, high abrasion resistance and dimensional stability, Gore® Rastex® is engineered for high quality sewability.

W.L. Gore says it can offer up to 20 per cent material savings compared to competitive thread due to higher yield per kg and it will not fibrillate.

Its high temperature resistance can withstand the widest temperature range of all synthetic fibres, enabling use in services from -212°C to +260°C, remaining flexible throughout this range.

When used outside, ordinary polyester thread

fibers break down over time due to exposure to UV sunlight, cleaning agents, saltwater and extreme weather. Gore® Tenara® made from ePTFE (expanded polytetrafluorethylene), also developed

by W.L. Gore, addresses this problem and has been added to the Amann techX range of sewing thread.

The unique ePTFE fiber construction has extreme UV, weather and chemical resistance, extending the life of fabric seams and ultimately the products in which it is used, making them ideal for manufacturing high-quality outdoor and marine products like boat covers, shading systems, tarpaulins, sails, convertible soft tops, tents, furniture, flags, etc.

Only pigments which are highly resistant to light are used, which combined with the properties of the PTFE, render the thread extremely colour fast. The company claims that the textile remains flexible even in extremes of temperature or frost, giving outdoor fabric products the kind of strength that withstands severe weather conditions, even after years of exposure. Due to its chemical characteristics it is also highly suitable for use in manufacturing processes involving contact with aggressive media. PTFE is unaffected by acids, alkaline solutions and cleaning chemicals.

UK-based Worthington Industrial Products Limited’s range of technical textile threads includes T505 High Tenacity Polypropylene continuous filament UV stabilised thread, which has excellent chemical resistance and does not absorb water. It is therefore ideal for manufacturing woven sacks for the packaging of fertilisers, chemicals, food stuff and similar products. It is also rot-proof and resistant to mildew attacks, chemical gases and micro-organisms which make it suitable for the filtration and FIBC (Flexible Intermediate Bulk Container) industries. A coating with a specially formulated lubricant enhances sewability.

Heat and fire-resistant threads Specialist sewing threads that make up the Amann techX range include K-tech 35, 50 and 75, together with Kc-tech 22. These are heat-resistant, nonmelting, self-extinguishing sewing threads with low inflammability. They have a decompositiontemperature of approximately 425°C and are made from tow spun para-aramide fibres. Uses include heat-protective-work wear, work gloves, bullet proof jackets and lumbermen wear.

Made from DuPont™ Nomex meta-aramide fibres the Amann N-tech and Nc-tech ranges are also

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TECHNICAL THREADS

Amann produces TechX performance threads for technical applications

heat resistant and have a decomposition-temperature of approximately 370°C. The cut stable spun threads are recommended for heat-protective wear, hot gas filters, working gloves, fire brigade equipment, racing wear and as an embroidery thread for badges.

The continuous filament threads are recommended for airbags, heat-protective gloves, heat-protective wear, hot gas filters, aircraft seats, wheels, safety shoes and composite material.

Worthington Industrial Product’s Kevlar ® thread is three times stronger than nylon and is heat resistant operating at temperatures up to300°C without serious degradation.

Threads India Ltd manufacture a wide range of Azo free technical sewing threads, which includes those made from Nomex, Kevlar and PTFE as well as nylon 6, nylon 6.6 and polyester and hightenacity polyester as well as antistatic threads.

Its High Temperature Fire Retardant Steel Core Thread has polyester jacketing which protects sewing machine guides from being grooved by metal to metal contact, with micro-molecular lubrication to provide smooth passage of thread. The thread will withstand high heat and temperature cycling up to temperatures of 2,000°F (1093.3°C), maintain integrity after long-term exposure to outside elements and is resistant to mildew, ageing, alkalis, chlorides, and many other liquids and gases.

Applications include removable and reusable insulation blankets for marine industries, aerospace applications, industrial applications, commercial industries, as well as fire proofing pads where extremely high temperature resistance is required.

One example of Gütermann’s industrial sewing threads is 100 per cent m-Aramid made of Nomex and Newstar® (NOMEX® = registered trademark of DuPontTM, NEW STAR® = registered trademark of Yantai). It is available in spun and continuous format and is suited to applications subjected to high temperatures such as protective clothing for fire fighters, racing drivers and foundry workers, uniforms for police officers, security patrols and the military.

These threads are short time heat resilient up to 360°C, self-extinguish after the contact to a flame, do not melt, have a good chemical resistance against weak acids and alkalis, uniformity and high breaking strength.

Workwear sewn with Gutermann's M-Aramid

Technical textiles are increasingly replacing traditional textile materials in challenging production areas due to their diversified uses American company AVS Industries, LLC (AVS) also produce thread to withstand very high temperatures. E Fiberglass sewing thread, for example, is offered for applications requiring intermediate capability up to 1,000°F (555°C). For applications up to 1,450°F (790°C), S2 Fiberglass sewing thread is offered. Three types of metalised sewing thread are available for high temperature resistance of over 1,500°F (815°C): S2 Fiberglass Twisted with Stainless Steel, S2 Fiberglass Twisted with Inconel Steel and Standard Cotton-Jacketed Stainless Steel. Potential applications include curtain fabrication, removable insulation, stress relief blankets, conveyor belts, heat shields, special protection items, bellow shrouds and tadpole gaskets.

Christex Thermal’s CT-2560D machine sewing thread is made from 70 per cent alumina (al2o3) and 30 per cent silica (sio2). With a melting point of 1,880°C, it is usable up to 1.392°C. Filament diameter measures 7μ. Its tensile strength varies with temperature measuring 11kgf/yarn at room temp and 8 kgf/yarn at 1,000°C after 24 hours. It is Boron free and therefore will not emit any Boron gas at performance temperatures.

USA-based W.F. Lake Corp produces more than 30 high-temperature, chemical-resistant sewing threads, including various PTFE coated glass fibre threads. It’s PTFE-coated Quartz sewing thread is made from high-purity, very fine continuous filament pure fused silica, making it, the company claim, among the strongest and most temperature and chemically-resistant thread on the market today.

The proprietary PTFE coating process completely encapsulates the thread, enhancing resistance to build up of contaminants and repelling attack by most acids and alkalis whilst improving handling characteristics and abrasion resistance.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE FOUR 2012 / ONE 2013

The thread will not support combustion and will not burn resisting temperatures up to 2,000°F. Also for high temperature applications Sagezander Kevlar®/Steel and Twaron®/Steel sewing threads contain a steel core. The Kevlar sewing thread can be supplied in a range of counts.

The main ones are Nm 50/2, 50/3, 50/4 and can be dyed to requirements. Twaron® is also available as a sewing thread in Nm 50/2, 50/3, 50/4, 100/2 in natural yellow or colours.

High-strength threads Manufactured from 100 per cent Acrylic Nitrile, Homo-Polymer Acrylic thread has greater strength and less shrinkage than ordinary acrylics and polyesters. It has superior resistance to chemicals in both acid and alkali solutions, and a good resistance to wet and dry heat. These properties make the thread valuable in the field of industrial materials such as filter fabrics for dry air, felt and dry canvas fabrics for paper manufacturers, and wet filter fabrics for many industries, including chemicals, refining petroleum and mining.

Anti-Static Polyester Anti-Static Polyester was initially developed for use in the flexible intermediate bulk container industry, though it has a growing reputation in an ever increasing number of environments where static electricity is a problem and is proving to be particularly successful in specialist clothing applications.

C-tech 80 is a continuous filament made from polyester/carbon for dispersion and conduction of electrical or static charges for clean room garments or safety clothing in the fields of microelectronics, pharmaceuticals, etc.

Zyex® 24 has been developed for chemical protective clothing and similar applications. I-tech 20 is a conductive sewing thread made from continuous filament polyamide, combined with Inox (stainless steel) for safety shoes.

Strong and durable seams Made from continuous filament, high-tenacity polyamide 6.6 with an “S” or “Z” twist, Coats PLC nylbond is a bonded nylon sewing thread

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TECHNICAL THREADS manufactured using a proprietary co-polymer based bond formulation developed in-house by Coats.

This unique bond, in combination with a customised lubrication, prevents filamentation and ply separation during the sewing process, producing exceptionally strong and durable seams.

It is recommended for sports and general footwear, leather goods, air bags, seat belts and trims, inflatables, soft luggage and upholstery.

Coats Gral is a specially stabilised and lubricated continuous filament high-tenacity polyester thread used for high-speed sewing of automotive trims, seat belts, slings and webbings, life jackets, filtration and outdoor goods.

Threads for automotive industry Tekstil is a Turkish thread manufacturer producing the Durak Sewing Thread range, which includes specialist automotive industry products with good resistance to abrasion and heat with protection from sun light. Products include Durabond AU Bonded Polyester, Bonded Polyamide, Duralon AU Lubricated Nylon, Durafix AU Lubricated Polyester and Duratex AU Textured Polyester.

A&E has also developed many performance threads designed to optimise the quality of sewn automotive products in particular, but are also useful for many other industrial uses.

Anefil Poly, for example, is a twisted multifilament polyester sewing thread which is ideal for sewing a wide range of products with good overall performance, excellent seam strength and the twisted multi-filament construction provides for superior sewability.

Together with Anecord Poly®, it is recommended for outdoor products or applications where higher UV resistance is required.

Applications include automotive, filtration, footwear, luggage and handbags, geo-textiles, specialty industrial, outdoor products, covers/web slings and tie downs.

Resistance to acid and bleach is rated excellent with a fair fibre resistance to alkali and good abrasion resistance.

EU Nylon – Amifil™ is made from high-tenacity polyamide 6.6 and has a twisted multifilament thread construction and soft finish. Although developed for the automotive industry, it is also suitable for furniture, luggage and handbags, medical and orthopaedic devices, safety and flotation devices, sporting goods, covers/web slings and tie downs and other specialty industrial products. It has excellent abrasion resistance, uniform construction, and good resistance to heat, acid and alkali.

Threads with UV protection SunStop® is a high-performance soft or bonded twisted multi-filament polyester sewing thread with

Gore Rastex sewing thread

advanced UV protection and non-wicking finish, specially designed for outdoor applications where seam strength retention and fade prevention during UV exposure are required. The non-wicking finish helps reduce moisture migration through the seams.

Applications include outdoor and marine products, covers/web slings and tie downs as well as other specialty industrial products.

Some other special threads 3M’s Nextel™ Sewing Thread 312 and 440, together with 3M™ Sewing Threads GT-15 and GT-23, are made from strong, continuous alumina-boria-silica fibres (about 90 per cent) and rayon (about 10 per cent) which is added for resiliency, abrasion resistance, and improved sewability.

The thread allows for simple manufacturing of custom blankets, seals, gaskets, curtains, zone dividers and other shaped or quilted items and provides a solution to sewing ceramic and other high-temperature fabrics.

GT-15 and GT-23 are made from high temperature continuous glass fibre and are useful for applications up to 1400°F (760°C).

UK-based Polux Limited produces a PTFE Coated Glass Fibre Sewing Thread manufactured from ‘E’ continuous filament yarns, totally encapsulated in PTFE. This enhances the resistance to contaminate build up and also helps to repel attacks from most acids and alkalis.

The PTFE coating is smooth and consistent, which allows for maximum performance of the thread and minimises the possibility of kink, strip back and breakage that can be experienced using very high temperature yarns. Four grades of glass sewing thread are available: ST600 ST400 ST300 ST10 equating to Tex X 12, Tex X 18, Tex X 24 and Tex X 12.

The thread is non-combustible under normal conditions, resistant to most chemicals, unaffected by fungi, has a very low coefficient of friction and low moisture absorption and can withstand a continuous working temperature range of -73°C to +260°C. Suggested application areas include high temperature textiles, thermal insulation jackets and pads, high

temperature gaskets, seals for ovens or kilns, heat shields, fire resistant composites and filter bags.

Polux also produce a PTFE coated stainless steel sewing thread made from 316L grade stainless steel that has 275 filaments and 175 torsions per metre. The nominal PTFE content is 10 per cent, the diameter is 12 microns and the nominal yield is 1,150m after PTFE coating.

The weight is 750 gm /1,000m nominal, breaking load 80 Newton, elongation one per cent and the W/M Linear Resistivity is nine. The stainless steel sewing thread is only used where the higher performance characteristics are a necessity due to the high comparative cost.

Some of the applications for this product are for high-performance thermal engineering, sports surface and filtration. Where there are no hazardous/corrosive elements present the temperature performance is up to 800°C, 350°C in the worst possible environment.

TIBTECH Innovations from France produce very high-performance technical sewing threads. These include Thermosew 100 per cent stainless steel multi-filaments sewing yarns, TENAX® Carbon and Carbon / PBO ZYLON® sewing thread.

The Thermosew thread, made from 95 per cent bundles of micrometrical multi-filament stainless steel alloy, is ideal for sewing together thermostable structures as it can withstand very high temperatures, is engineered with a reverse twist in two ply suitable for sewing machines and has a 5 per cent PTFE impregnation coating to withstand overheating in the process, and allow a much better sliding ratio of the yarn.

It provides a constant electrical and thermal conductivity (14 Ohms/m), independent of the mechanical load, an excellent electronic data transfer ratio, without interferences, good flexibility allowing small curve radius within flexible textiles or composites structures.

It also has excellent withstanding against multiple bending or “fatigue” effect and good mechanical strength.

Although specially designed to allow stitching of carbon fibres, the two TIBTECH carbon sewing threads must be processed with care and at low speed in stitching or embroidery.

Tenax Carbon is made from 100 per cent carbon TENAX® fibre multi-filament yarn with special reverse twist and a slight PU coating to optimise yarn processability. Elongation at break equals 1.5 per cent and electrical resistivity is 218 Ohms/m.

CARBON/PBO reverse twist carbon spun yarn sewing thread is made from stretch broken (Crak) carbon fibres, reinforced by a double PBO ZYLON® binder to increase abrasion resistance.

Elongation at break measures 1.5 per cent. ❑

AD INDEX Brother Internationale Industrie Machinen GmbH ....................................9

Oskar Dilo Maschinenfabrik KG..............................................................11

Industrial Development Corporation ..........................................................2

Trutzschler GmbH & Co. KG ..................................................................24

Monforts A. Textilmaschinen Gmbh & Co Kg ..........................................7

Vetri Engineers............................................................................................5

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