4 minute read

Excessively Italian

Give Me More

Italy’s luxury fashion brands embrace gorgeous overabundance

There was a time when some of Italy’s most famous fashion brands were all about excess. Specifically, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana gained enormous popularity thanks to over-the-tip, colorful, incredibly wild designs that could easily have slid into trashy territory but instead remained at the forefront of fashion because of the designers’ skills. Versace was founded in 1978 and Dolce & Gabbana in 1985, and for much of the ensuing years, the two brands embodied the dramatic beauty of excess.

When maxilamism gave way to minimalism, both labels toned down their designs, as did most of Italy’s top brands, but suddenly around 2015 and seemingly overnight, excess was back. Gucci, under the helm of Alessandro Michele, was one of the first to dive head-on into flashy, fabulous, fantastic fashion. Soon most other brands followed suit, and for fall/winter 2019-20, Italian excess is back in full force.

Fendi

Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection for Fendi is as dazzlingly inspired as the late designer himself. Some of the standouts for fall/winter 2019-20 include tops and hose adorned with the Fendi double F logo that Lagerfeld invented, a see-through canary yellow dress that’s both fitted and flowing and a white blouse with a huge, oversized bow tie. It’s a tale of disheveled romance and Lagerfeld’s farewell letter to his fans.

Missoni

It’s always been about knitting at Missoni and it always will be. This season, the brand’s legendary knitting machinery produced boldly patterned cardigan coats, a tank dress with horizontally applied sequins and a sweater with Mondrian-inspired geometric designs in a flurry of colors. Rich but not heavy, Missoni’s fall/ winter collection is compelling and eye-catching.

Miu Miu

Darkness and drama are key to Miu Miu’s fall/winter offerings. This season, the brand has revived the cape – it’s long, enigmatic and comes in a myriad of materials, including tweed and faux leather. Some collection highlights include a mini skater dress, floral backpack, chain mail collar and a sheer pink dress affixed with crocheted flowers. It’s a fairy tale that keeps on exploding into fabled fireworks.

Dolce & Gabbana

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are as wild as ever this winter. Their fantastic collection is pure Dolce & Gabbana: spectacular, exuberant and savagely creative. There are pastel-colored nightgowns made from chiffon and satin and trimmed with marabou feathers, jackets with dazzling collages and coats with artsy graphics. In true Dolce & Gabbana style, you’ve also got outfits in leopard print plus Red Carpet-worthy floral print gowns.

In true Dolce & Gabbana style, you’ve got lots of Red Carpet-worthy gowns

Moschino

Jeremy Scott’s fall/winter collection for Moschino is pure excess – and, let’s face it, pure Scott. Moschino’s creative director imagined dresses plastered with dollar-bill prints, bags in the shape of an iron, pants with “Soft Drink” emblazoned across the front and even a tube dress with colorful prints from American TV game show Press Your Luck. Fabulously fashionable and fantastically funny.

Pucci

For its fall/winter 2019-20 collection, Pucci turned a little bit Japanese. While staying true to the color and print that have been the signature of the brand since its founding, Pucci added more than a few Far Eastern touches to its looks, resulting in a powerful and unusual collection. Highlights include an obi-sashed shirtdress and a glittering gown with dazzling colors and prints clearly inspired by Japan’s famed folk art ink prints.

Prada

Romantic and utilitarian: the Prada woman this winter is both in love with fashion and concerned about global conflicts. On the one hand, you’ve got feminine and frilly lace, flowers, hearts and capes, but you’ll also see slightly more masculine touches like uniforms, puffers and cargo details. Some of the outfits that best express this delicious duality include a military jacket matched with a stylish blue shirt and a black lace pencil skirt, and a sensuous skirt with a shapely fit and a massive patch pocket.

Words Niku Kasmai

This article is from:

A Magazine, Issue 99

by Aïshti