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Publisher: City of Bydgoszcz Bydgoszcz Information Centre 2 Batorego St., 85-104 Bydgoszcz tel. +48 52 340 45 50 www.visitbydgoszcz.pl, bci@visitbydgoszcz.pl Written by: Dawid Urbański (p. 9-26, 89-96, 128-135, 147-149), Mirosław Wysocki (p. 27-34 with changes by Marta MakowskaAdamczyk), Urszula Guźlecka (p. 37-44 with changes by Marta Makowska-Adamczyk), Daria Kieraszewicz (p. 51-56, 61-68), Bogna Derkowska-Kostkowska (p. 73, 77-78, 80-81, interesting fact on p. 82, 97-108 with changes by Agnieszka Kołosowska, 115-122, Maciej Obremski (p. 76, 79-80, 83), Agnieszka Kołosowska (p. 82), p. 109-114 – preparation based on texts from individual institutions, Tomasz Izajasz (p. 122-127 with changes by Paulina Janusz and Marta MakowskaAdamczyk, Agnieszka Wysocka (p. 136-142), Grzegorz Myk (p. 149-150, Marcin Obremski (p. 150-151), Tourist Information Centre in Toruń (p.151-152), Elżbieta Pawelec (p. 153-154), Michał Czepek (p. 154-156), Municipal Tourist Information Centre in Inowrocław (p. 156-157), Tourist Information in Żnin (p. 158-159), City Culture, Sport and Promotion Office in Ciechocinek (p. 159-160), Włocławek Tourist Information (p. 161-162), Marta Makowska-Adamczyk (introductions on p. 167, 168, 172, 178, 180, 182, 184, 186, 188), Bydgoszcz Information Centre (useful addresses on p.: 35-36, 48-50, 167-188, regular events on p.: 44-47) Photos by: Cover and flap: Joanna Zasada, Robert Sawicki Joanna Zasada (p. 6-7, 26 top, 119, 164-165, 179, 182, 184, 191 photo no. 9, 192 photo no. 25), Robert Sawicki (p. 10, 11, 16, 18, 19, 21, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 30-31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 37, 39, 40, 41 top, 43, 45, 46, 47, 48, 58-59, 61, 65, 68, 70-71, 76, 77, 79, 82, 83, 84, 86-87, 89, 90, 93, 96, 97, 99, 103, 108, 110, 123 left, 125, 126, 128, 134, 135, 137, 140, 148, 167 bottom, 171, 183, 185, 188, 191 photo no. 2, 4, 6, 12, 14, p. 192 photo no. 15, 17, 21, 33), Marek Chełminiak (p. 94 top, 106, 124), Natalia Nazaruk (p. 14), Dariusz Gackowski (p. 109, 112 left), Bydgoszcz Airport Archive (p. 12-13), Dariusz Bloch (p. 73), Arkadiusz Blachowski (p. 49 top) Sonia Gołda (p. 26 bottom, 81, 94 bottom, 95, 117, 118, 121, 129), Paulina Janusz (p. 100, 105, 111 right, 132 bottom), Agnieszka Kołosowska (p. 22, 98, 102, 132 top), Alicja Gołata (p. 133), Piotr Ulanowski (p. 38), Leszek Woźniak (p. 78, 111 left, 138, 139, 143, 167 top), Leon Wyczółkowski District Museum Archive in Bydgoszcz (p. 123 right), Ewelina Gołdyn (p. 112 right column, 113, 114), Daniel Pach (p. 144-145), Kinga Eljasz (p. 41 bottom), Magda Hueckel (p. 42), Soap and History of Dirt Museum Archive (p. 49 bottom, 63), Municipal Gallery bwa Archive (p. 50), Sowa Confectionery Company Archive (p. 52), Anita Michniewska (p. 53), Brewery Archive (p. 55 bottom, 56), ZDMiKP Archive (p. 62), Myślęcinek Forest Park Archive (p. 66), Koronowo Town Office Archive (p. 149), Grzegorz Myk (p. 150), Tourist Information Centre Archive in Toruń (p. 151), Aerial photo B.Z. Chojeta (p. 153), Mariusz Nasieniewski (p. 155, 156), Dariusz Bednarek (p. 157), Tourist Information Archive in Żnin (p. 158), City Culture, Sport and Promotion Office Archive in Ciechocinek (p. 159, 160), Jan Sierakiewicz (p. 161), Włocławek Tourist Information Archive (p. 162), Bohema Hotel Archive (p. 168), Pod Orłem Hotel Archive (p. 172), Tramway Archive (p. 173 top, 174, 177), Maciej Śmiglewski (p. 181), © Artem Mykhailichenko - Fotolia.com (p. 55) © Photographee.eu - Fotolia.com (p. 173 bottom), © Wouter Tolenaars - Fotolia.com (p. 175 top), © Darius Dzinnik - Fotolia.com (p. 175 bottom), © adisa - Fotolia.com (p. 176 top), © valery121283 - Fotolia.com (p. 176 second from top), © Bernd Jürgens - Fotolia.com (p. 176 third from top), © draghicich Fotolia.com (p. 176 bottom), © konradbak - Fotolia.com (p. 187), Drawing on p. 3- Studio DaVinci Agencja Reklamowa Drawings on p. 44, 57, 85 - Kamila Michałowska from Studio DaVinci Agencja Reklamowa Drawing on p. 74-75- Bartosz Ostrowski papio.pl Drawings on p.: 8, 11, 14, 60, 67, 72, 88, 146, 152, 166, 170, 180, 188 - Grapix.pl (graphic artist Kamil Wakuła) Map of Attractions in the Voivodeship on p. 163: ArtStudio Agencja Reklamowo-Wydawnicza, www.klonowski.eu Project Coordinators: Editing: Translation and proofreading by: Graphic design of the cover, graphic design of the entire publication, typesetting: Maps prepared by: Printed by:
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ISBN 83-917786-7-3 First edition, VII 2014
Agnieszka Kołosowska, Leszek Woźniak Agnieszka Kołosowska, Paulina Janusz, Leszek Woźniak, Marcin Obremski Biuro Tłumaczeń Logos, 10 Gdańska st., 85-006 Bydgoszcz
GraPIX.pl (graphic artist: Kamil Wakuła) Marcin Wasilewski (marcinwasilewski.eu) based on OSM data (© authors OpenStreetMap, Open Database License) Drukarnia JANTER, ul. Chrobrego 41, 11-300 Biskupiec
Information
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EXPLORE BY DGOSZCZ
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9 Basic information 17 History of Bydgoszcz 27 Sports in Bydgoszcz 37 Cultural Bydgoszcz 51 Bydgoszcz specialties
MUST DO
58 61 Take a crui se by the wate r tram 62 Go on a trip on a historical bus 63 Make soap yourself 64 Learn abou t the “explosi ve” history of Bydg oszcz 66 Relax in My ślęcinek 68 F ind the 18 th Meridian
MUST SEE 70
en from 73 Bydgoszcz se er Tow r te Wa e th 76 Mill Island nal 77 Bydgoszcz Ca thedral 79 Bydgoszcz Ca Archer Lady e th of ue at 80 St wski do ar 82 Master Tw e by Granaries e River Sculptur th g sin os Cr n 83 Ma Fountain 84 T he “D eluge”
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Contents
SIGHT SEEING ROUT ES
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89 See the Old Town 97 Around the City Centre 109 Alternativ e image of the city 115 Industrial history of Bydg oszcz 122 Trail of hy drotechnical historical site s 128 By bicycle through Bydg oszcz 136 Green Bydg oszcz
BY DGOSZCZ ENV IRONS
144
167 Touris t informat ion 168 Where to sleep? 172 Where to 178 P ubs/c eat? lubs 180 Entert ainment 182 Attra ctions fo r childre 184 Touri n st equipm ent renta 186 Shoppi l ng 188 Tour operators
ecko 147 Ostrom owo 149 Koron thing es and ba 150 Beach waters 151 Toruń no 153 Chełm iądz dz ru G 154 cław 156 Inowro ons d its envir n a in Żn 158 inek 159 Ciechoc ek w ła c ło W 161
US E F UL ION INF ORM AT
164
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EXPLORE J A BY DGOSZCZ N CZ
Z O
P
G D BY
Z S O
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Explore Bydgoszcz
Mock-up of Bydgoszcz from the early centuries
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Basic information 9 History of Bydgoszcz 17
Sports in Bydgoszcz 27
Cultural Bydgoszcz 37
Bydgoszcz specialties 51
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Explore Bydgoszcz | Basic Information In brief: First traces of settlement: 8,000 B.C. First written record:
Basic Information
1238
Town charter:
April 19, 1346
Area:
175.98 sq. km
Average altitude:
60 m above sea level
Population:
361 000 (2013)
Population density:
2,047 people/sq. km
Geographic location: o
latitude
53 N
longitude
18 E
o
Twin cities: Cherkasy and Kremenchuk (Ukraine), Hartford (USA), Kragujevac (Serbia), Mannheim and Wilhelmshaven (Germany), Bydgoszcz is the capital of Kujawsko-
Ningbo (China), Patras (Greece),
Pomorskie Voivodeship and the eighth
Pavlodar (Kazakhstan), Perth (Scotland),
biggest city in Poland. It occupies part
Pitesti (Romania), Reggio Emilia (Italy)
of the historical region of Kuyavia and is picturesquely located on the rivers Brda, Vistula, and the Bydgoszcz Canal. Major motor roads, railways and waterways (international waterway E70) intersect in the area. Ignacy Jan Paderewski Airport operates in the city (about 15 minutes from the city centre by bus). The city with its centuries-old traditions is a popular tourist destination thanks to its attractive location on the river and canals running through its centre. Bydgoszcz places growing emphasis on water, since the daily life, cultural, sports and business activities of the city take place in the immediate proximity of the River Brda.
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Coat of arms, colours and bugle call
Flag: the colours of Bydgoszcz, from the top, include white, red and blue, which create three horizontal stripes of the
The coat of arms of the city
same width. The centre of the
features the red city walls against a white
flag features the coat of arms of the city.
background with merlons, the gate and
The colours of the flag refer directly to the
three towers with blue roofs, crowned with
colours of the coat of arms of the city.
golden cupolas. The central tower is higher and wider, whereas its top, on the cupola,
Logotype: The promotional emblem of
features a golden flag turned to the right.
Bydgoszcz refers to a historical tradition,
The wall has a gate with raised portcullis,
showing an outline of three granaries in
blue doors with golden hardware, with the
red, yellow and blue with an inscription -
right wing open.
Bydgoszcz or Bydgoszcz.pl.
The present coat of arms of the city was approved by a resolution of the Municipal
Bugle call of Bydgoszcz was written by
Council in 2005. Over centuries, the coat
composer, pianist and musicologist, Prof.
of arms has changed, and its origins date
Konrad Pałubicki (1910-1992). In 1946,
back to the chartering of Bydgoszcz as a
on the 600th anniversary of the city of
town. The initial coat of arms of the city has
Bydgoszcz, a bugle call competition was
been preserved in vestigial form on a stamp
announced. The jury of the competition
attached to the document issued for the
selected K. Pałubicki’s composition based on
Koronowo Cistercians in 1362.
Kashubian motifs. It was also decided that the bugle call performed by a trumpeter would be played from the tower of the Church of the Poor Clares at 2 Gdańska Street. These days, the bugle call is played from a digital recorder three times a day, at noon, 3:00 pm and 6:00 pm. It should be added that the Bydgoszcz music signal – the military bugle call – was played for the first time on the May 3 Holiday in 1925.
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Explore Bydgoszcz | Basic Information
Symbols Granaries – three half-timbered granaries rising over the river in the city centre, at 7-11 Grodzka Street, comprise the official symbol of Bydgoszcz. The granaries are the main motif of the official logo of the city. The choice of the granaries as the symbol is related to the very important role of river trade, in particular trade in grains, which flourished in the city over centuries. (p. 83)
The Archer Lady – a statue made by Berlin sculptor Ferdinand Lepcke, which is currently standing in the Jan Kochanowski Park, across from the Polish Theatre. It is one of the unofficial symbols of the city. “Łuczniczka” (The Archer Lady) is also the name of the Bydgoszcz Sports & Entertainment Hall at 59 Toruńska Street, one of the three most prominent sports arenas in Bydgoszcz. (p. 81) It should be mentioned that in 2013 a contemporary monument referring to “The Archer Lady” was unveiled in the city. The new statue flexes its naked body near the Opera Nova, serving as a symbol of the changes taking place in Bydgoszcz.
The Archer Lady in Jan Kochanowski Park
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How to get to Bydgoszcz? By car Bydgoszcz can be accessed by two major motor roads, no. 10 and 25. The first one offers a convenient connection with Piła and Szczecin, in a north-western direction. The second one provides a connection with Wrocław, Poznań and Bydgoszcz Airport. Some 60 kilometres away from Bydgoszcz is an entrance to the A1 highway, which offers a connection to the Tri-City in the north and to Łódź in the south.
Ticket windows at the PKS Coach Station are open: on weekdays between 7:00 am and 6:00 pm on weekends between 10:30 am and 6:00 pm (closed on holidays). Outside opening hours, tickets can be purchased directly from the driver. Information about connections from Bydgoszcz can be found at www.pks. bydgoszcz.pl or by calling the infoline +48 703 403 350. Note! When changing from bus to train in the city, one should remember that the PKS Coach Station is not close to the PKP Railway Station. It takes about 15 minutes to travel from one station to another by tram no. 5 or 20 minutes by bus no. 80. The public
By bus
transport schedule can be found at:
Bydgoszcz is the most important junction of
www.zdmikp.bygoszcz.pl at public transport
long-distance buses in the region. Bydgoszcz
timetable bookmark. An alternative to PKS
offers direct connections to Gdańsk, Warsaw,
buses is Polski Bus (www.polskibus.com),
Poznań, Wrocław, Łódź, Krakow, and Szczecin.
whose stop is located at the corner of Jagiellońska and Piotrowskiego Streets.
Bydgoszcz Airport
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Explore Bydgoszcz | Basic Information By train
By air
Bydgoszcz has direct railway connections
Ignacy Jan Paderewski International Airport
with the majority of big cities in Poland. The
is located only 3.5 km south of Bydgoszcz city
most popular destinations are the Tri-City and
centre. Convenient connection with the airport
Warsaw.
is provided by motor road no. 25 and bus line
Details on connections from Bydgoszcz can be found on the websites of carriers: www.pkp.pl www.arrivapcc.pl, tel. +48 801 081 515 www.intercity.pl, (TLK, Express InterCity) tel. +48 22 39 19 757 www.przewozyregionalne.pl tel. +48 703 202 020 PKP Bydgoszcz Główna Railway Station can be accessed by the following buses: 54, 57, 67, 71, 79, 80, 83, 84, 31N, 33N and trams: 3 and 5.
no. 80, connecting the airport with PKS and PKP stations. The timetable of bus line no. 80 is available at www.zdmikp.bydgoszcz.pl. The modern passenger terminal – built in 2004 – serves over 300,000 passengers every year. A detailed timetable of regular and charter flights is available at the airport website www.bzg.aero or by calling +48 52 365 47 00 (open daily between 8:00 am and 10:00 pm).
By boat One can also reach Bydgoszcz by the International Waterway E-70, which connects the rivers Vistula and Odra, and the waterway E-40, which connects the Baltic Sea with the Black Sea (p. 122).
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(during the weekend at every stop). Luggage is transported free of charge. 3 PLN
1.50 PLN
During the vacation season, public
How to travel in the city
transport in Bydgoszcz has an additional tourist service. The Bydgoszcz Water Tram (p. 61) starts to operate on the River Brda,
Public transport covers almost the
while the tracks and streets are used by tourist
entire city, allowing you to reach anywhere
lines, operated by historic trams (Grandpa
in Bydgoszcz quickly and conveniently. Every
Herbrandt and historic eNka) and buses
day, nearly half a million people use the
(historic “Ogórki” - cucumbers) (p. 62).
service. Efficient commuting is provided by modern and comfortable trams and buses, which also travel at night. Tickets can be
Paid Parking Zones:
purchased at newsstands, ticket machines,
The city centre of Bydgoszcz is a paid
ticket sale system by phone and at the origin
parking zone. The current price list and map of
stops from the driver with exact change
the zone are shown on the following website: www.zdmikp.bydgoszcz.pl in the bookmark Paid Parking Zone.
Public transport in Bydgoszcz
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Explore Bydgoszcz | Basic Information
Paid parking zone map
P P
Zone A –3 PLN/hour of parking Zone B –1.5 PLN/hour of parking Multi-level parking
BiT-CITY Metropolitan Ticket Many tourists visiting Bydgoszcz make
Fees:
a short trip to Toruń. It also works the other
weekdays 8:00 am - 5:00 pm
way around, when tourists visiting Toruń
Saturday 8:00 am - 2:00 pm.
come to visit the city on the River Brda.
Due to the location in the city centre and
A perfect solution for these visitors is the
proximity of the biggest junction in the city –
purchase of BiT-CITY metropolitan ticket.
Jagiellonów Roundabout – it is recommended
Paying
to leave the car at the multi-level car park in
travel from one city to the other by train,
Moczyńskiego Street (entry from Jagiellońska
and use public transport for an hour. More
Street) or Pod Blankami Street (open from
information at www.zdmikp.bydgoszcz.pl in
September 2014).
the bookmark Transport/ BiT City.
10 PLN and
6.30 PLN, you can
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Taxicabs
TAXI:
More than 1,200 taxicabs offer services in
Zrzeszeni, tel. +48 196 22
Bydgoszcz streets. Over 90% of them are
Mercedes, tel. +48 196 64
associated in corporations. The initial fee
Tele Radio Taxi, tel. +48 196 28
in the majority of them is about 7 PLN, and
Radio Taxi, tel. +48 196 29
every consecutive kilometre during the day
MPT ”Łuczniczka”, tel. +48 191 91
is about 2.20 PLN. We will pay 25 PLN for
Komfort, tel. +48 196 62
an hour of waiting. When you are taking a
Non Stop, tel. +48 196 26
taxi outside the city, it is recommended to
Taxi Fordon, tel. +48 196 24
arrange the price before your trip.
Express Radio taxi, tel. +48 196 29, +48 52 3 444 000 Taxi Bagażowe / Luggage, tel. +48 52 371 66 00
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City Hall
Explore Bydgoszcz | History of Bydgoszcz in the south. Here, in the 13th century, the oldest church of the city was built, which was St. Giles’ Church (not existing anymore). At the beginning of the 14th century,
History of Bydgoszcz
the Bydgoszcz Castellany became part of the Duchy of Bydgoszcz and Wyszogród, the northernmost part of the borderland between Poland and the Teutonic State. During one of the Polish-Teutonic wars (1327-1332), the most important cities of the Duchy were burnt by the Teutonic Knights. As a result, they were annexed along with Kuyavia by the Teutonic Knights.
Bydgoszcz appears for the first time
Based on the 1343 Treaty of Kalisz,
in historical records on June 28, 1238. The
Casimir the Great regained Kuyavia along
Annal of the Chapter of Gniezno features
with Bydgoszcz, for which he had great
the Bydgoszcz Castellan called Sulisław.
plans. It was supposed to become the
Although the name “Bydgoszcz” is not
main city of northern Kuyavia. On the
mentioned, we know that the quoted
other hand, Wyszogród was never rebuilt
Budegac is the city on the River Brda.
after the damage it suffered in 1330. King
Bydgoszcz, as a city protecting the crossing
Casimir III chartered Bydgoszcz as a town
over the river, was founded most likely in
on April 19, 1346. The foundation charter
the early 11th century in the area of the
was issued in Brześć Kujawski, granting to
present Saint Andrew Bobola Church. A
the township the Magdeburg law. The new
settlement outside the city walls developed
settlement was supposed to develop on
Did you know that... According to legend, the city was established by two brothers, Byd and Gost, who after a long journey from the south of Poland found a perfect
place to establish a settlement on the River Brda, naming it Bydgost by
using their combined names. T he name “Bydgoszcz” can also derive from the Slav name Bydgost. T he city on the River Brda was simply the city
of Bydgost. Other sources claim that the name of the city comes from “bicie gości” (beating guests) or “bycie gościem” (being a guest).
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became his favourite residence, where he
Did you know that...
frequently stayed. He also died here in 1377.
Casimir the Great, King of Poland
and 16th, marked fast growth of the city.
Consecutive centuries, in particular the 15th
in 1333-1370, was the last monarch from the Piast dynasty and one of the most outstanding rulers
in the history of Poland. T he King chose Bydgoszcz as an important city the
protecting
borderland
the
country
between
in
Poland
and the Teutonic State. Casimir visited Bydgoszcz several times, including in 1345, 1347 and 1370.
In that time, Bydgoszcz became one of the biggest cities of Poland. In 1397, thanks to the efforts of Queen Hedwig, the Carmelites arrived to the city, opening their monastery in it. After Gdańsk and Kraków, it was the third monastery of this order in Poland. Bydgoszcz played a significant role in the Great War with the Teutonic Order (14091411). One of its heroes was Bydgoszcz starost, Janusz Brzozogłowy, a knight of
an uninhabited plain, located west from
King Ladislaus Jagiello.
the existing city. Casimir
During the Thirteen Years’ War with
the Great wanted the city
the Teutonic Order, King Casimir
to be named Królewiec
IV Jagiellon frequently stayed in
(Koenigsburg);
however,
Bydgoszcz. Brick city walls were
the new name did not gain
built, enclosing Bydgoszcz from
popularity among the locals.
the south, and a Gothic parish
Bydgoszcz received a number
(Fara) church sitting in the cor-
of privileges from the king, including
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se to the River Brda. The city
involvement in navigable
grew at a fast pace thanks to
trade and the right to mint
river trade. The main goods
coins. At the request of the
exported from the city were
king, a brick castle was built
pottery and Bydgoszcz beer.
in the area occupied by the
In 1480, the Bernardine Or-
early settlement, serving as
der arrived to the city, play-
the seat of the local castellan.
ing a very important role in
In
Bydgoszcz
its history. In the immediate
Starosty was inherited by the
proximity of the monastery
grandson of Casimir, Kaźko
buildings, the Bernardines
of Słupsk. Bydgoszcz Castle
erected a Gothic church
the
right
ner of the Market Square, clo-
to
1370,
the
Casimir the Great Monument in the New Market Square
Explore Bydgoszcz | History of Bydgoszcz memorate Poland’s victory over the Turks in
Did you know that... Casimir
IV
(1351-1377)
known
also as Kaźko of Słupsk, Duke of Dobrzyń and Słupsk, was the son of Boguslaus IV and Elisabeth, the daughter Adopted
of
by
Casimir
the
the
king,
he
Great.
was
Chocim, one of the most valuable and biggest coins in the history of Europe was minted – 100 ducats of Sigismund III Vasa. In that time, Bydgoszcz had a population of about 5,000 and was one of the biggest cities of Poland. Poles dominated in the social structure of the city, which also featured big
most likely prepared to be his
groups of the Germans and Scotsmen. The
failed.
ted by the Jews (although formally they had
successor. T hese plans, however,
melting pot of Bydgoszcz was supplemenbeen banned from settling in the city based
(today, the site is occupied by the Garrison
on the 1555 royal charter, thus they lived in
Church of Our Lady, Queen of Peace). They
nearby Fordon, appearing in Bydgoszcz pri-
also established a sizeable library, some col-
marily during fairs) and single Italian families
lections of which have survived to this day.
(someone called Stefan Parkuzi served seve-
In that time, the office of Bydgoszcz starost
ral times as the mayor of the city).
had been held by members of a very affluent
The biggest disaster in the history
and influential local family, the Kościeleckis
of the city took place in the mid-17th
(they resided in the Bydgoszcz castle for
century, during the Second Northern War.
nearly 150 years). In 1594, King Sigismund
Bydgoszcz, just like countless Polish cities
III Vasa’s favourite, Stanisław Cikowski ope-
and towns, was destroyed during the
ned a private mint on Mill Island, which in
invasion of Poland by Sweden,
the early 17th century was turned into a royal mint. In 1621, in order to com-
Casimir the Great Monument in the New Market Square
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known as the Swedish Deluge (1655-1660).
camp was headquartered. During the
Fierce battles had been fought for the city,
war with Sweden, King John Casimir and
which had changed hands many times,
Frederick William, Elector of Brandenburg
leading to tremendous losses. The city
and Duke of Prussia signed the famous Treaty of Bromberg in the Bydgoszcz Old
Did you know that... Bartholomew
of
Bydgoszcz
(ca.
1480-1548), tied with the Bernardine monastery, was one of the most outstanding
Bydgoszcz
scholars
of the Old-Polish period. He wrote the
first
(1532).
Latin-Polish
dictionary
Market Square, on the stairs of the Jesuit Church. This treaty allowed Poland to break the dangerous anti-Polish alliance, but unfortunately became also the foundation for the future Kingdom of Prussia, one of the three invaders that annexed Poland in the 18th century. Plagues brought to the city by armies, fires, and finally the Third Northern War (1700-1721) completed the destruction. War damages along with the dramatic drop
lost some of its oldest historic sites, most
in population led to decline of Bydgoszcz,
importantly the castle built at the request
which ceased to exist as a major business
of Casimir the Great and the medieval city
centre for several dozen years. In 1772,
walls. The Swedes left a mark in the name
as a result of the first partition of Poland,
of one of the biggest residential districts of
Bydgoszcz was annexed by Prussia, within
the city, Szwederowo, where the Swedish
the newly established province of West Prussia. In
June
1772,
Frederick the Great, the ruler of Prussia, stayed in Bydgoszcz. His decision to build a canal connecting the rivers Odra and Vistula determined an important role of the city in his kingdom. When Bydgoszcz was taken over by Prussia, the city had a population of about 800. The invader Map of Bydgoszcz from the drawing by Erik Jรถnsson Dahlbergh, 1656
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invested significant funds
Explore Bydgoszcz | History of Bydgoszcz in the city, which led to its fast growth and
It led to further economic growth of the city,
population increase. Bydgoszcz (which at
in which there were tanneries, dye-works,
that time was known under its German name
breweries, and a number of mills. After the
Bromberg) was appointed as the seat of the
fall of Napoleon, Bydgoszcz returned under
authorities of the Netze District, becoming
the Prussian rule.
an important administrative centre. In a
In 1851, the city was connected by
very short period, in 1773-1774, at the
railway with Berlin. The solemn opening of
request of Frederick II, the Bydgoszcz Canal
the railway line was attended by Frederick
was excavated (p. 77). This outstanding
William IV, King of Prussia. Bydgoszcz beca-
engineering achievement brought to the
me the seat of the world’s first railway autho-
city a long period of stable growth and
rity involved in expansion and supervision
prosperity. Bydgoszcz once again became a
over railway lines in the eastern provinces of
major trade centre. In the beginning of the
Prussia. Construction of the railway station
19th century, it had a population of several thousand. During the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising, General Jan Henryk Dąbrowski took back Bydgoszcz from the invader. For two weeks, after the fall of the uprising, the city was in the Polish hands. In 1806, after the Battles of Jena - Auerstedt, the land annexed previously by Prussia was taken over by Napoleon Bonaparte. Bydgoszcz, as a capital of department, became part of the Duchy of Warsaw established by the French Emperor.
5 on the Old Bydgoszcz Canal
contributed to development of the city in
Did you know that... Józef Wybicki (1747-1822) was a co-
-worker and friend of General Jan Henryk
Dąbrowski
(1755-1818)
for
many years. He wrote our national
anthem, Dąbrowski’s Mazurka. Wybicki served his internship as court official in Bydgoszcz. He also
participated in the fights for the city during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising.
the north-western direction. The Bydgoszcz city centre with big-city buildings was developed in a very short time (p. 97). The second half of the 19th century and the early 20th century marked a period of very fast growth of the city, which population was reaching 100,000 in the beginning of the 20th century. Electrification had progressed at a fast pace. As early as 1896, electric trams entered the streets of Bydgoszcz (horse-drawn
21
Prussian rule in the city was brought to an end by the First World War. On January 20, 1920, based on the decisions of the Treaty of Versailles, Bydgoszcz
returned
to
Poland.
Re-
Polonization had progressed so quickly that during the interwar period Bydgoszcz along with Poznań had become one of the most Polish cities. Urban development, business and culture were booming in the city. Bydgoszcz, the second largest city of Poznań Province, became the biggest economic centre of Pomerania. In 1923, the Friends of Bydgoszcz Association was founded, one of the oldest associations of this type in Poland. On January 4, 1937, the Polish Radio started broadcasting in Bydgoszcz. In 1938, based on a new administrative reform, Bydgoszcz became part of Pomeranian Province. The Second World War left its bloody Tenement house in 1 Wolności Square
mark on the history of the city. During the first days of the war, German sabotage took
22
tramways operated since 1888). In that time,
place in Bydgoszcz, an event which the Third
many stately public buildings were con-
Reich propaganda described as the “Bloody
structed, led by the edifices of the Municipal
Sunday in Bydgoszcz”. The troops of the
Theatre and the East Railway Authority. The
“Pomerania” Army withdrawing from the
buildings for Bydgoszcz, known as the Little
city were unexpectedly attacked by German
Berlin (“Klein Berlin”) in that period, were
saboteurs. This act of sabotage was quickly
designed by local and German architects.
suppressed and those responsible for it
Shortly after the outbreak of the First World
were punished on September 5, 1939. The
War, the design of the city expansion was
city was taken over by the German army,
prepared by the well-known urban planner
beginning the period of occupation. The
Hermann Stübben. Industry had been gro-
Nazis were performing mass executions of
wing at a very fast pace, along with dozens
Bydgoszcz residents, in the main Market
of small and medium production plants. The
Square of the city, nearby woods and first of
Explore Bydgoszcz | History of Bydgoszcz all in the Fordon “Death Valley” (p. 134). The
to bombing of the German Army Research
events of the mentioned “Bloody Sunday
Centre in Peenemünde, which worked on
in Bydgoszcz” became a justification for
development of the V1 and V2 rockets. In
the executions. The Nazis destroyed some
January 1945, Bydgoszcz was liberated from
historical buildings in the Old Town, primarily
German occupation by the Soviet Army and
the eastern frontage of Mostowa Street and
the First Polish Army.
the western frontage of the Market Square,
Since March 1945, Bydgoszcz served
widening the narrow streets of the Old Town
first as the capital of Pomeranian Province
and preparing a site for a new, monumental
and later of Bydgoszcz Province. The post-
building of the City Hall and a parade square.
war years marked further fast growth of the
In the same time, in the eastern part of the
city. New neighbourhoods were developed,
city, construction works started on a huge
including Kapuściska, Błonie, Wyżyny, and
factory of nitro-glycerine known as “DAG
the biggest district of the city, New Fordon.
Fabrik Bromberg” (p. 64), which employed
Development of the latter one included
hundreds of forced labour. Bydgoszcz residents have their share in defeating the German Army. Marian Rejewski, a native of Bydgoszcz, contributed greatly to breaking of the “Enigma” code, whereas information acquired by Augustyn and Roman Träger led
Did you know that... Marian Rejewski (1905-1980) was a mathematician
and
cryptologist
born in Bydgoszcz. In 1932, along with Henryk Zygalski and Jerzy Różycki,
“Enigma”,
he a
broke
German
the
code
of
enciphering
machine used by Nazi Germany. T he
breaking
of
the
“Enigma”
code had undoubtedly contributed
to the final victory of the Allies
over Hitler, shortening the war by
several years. Rejewski had lived and worked in Bydgoszcz for many years. He is commemorated by a monument
in
Gdańska
Street,
a
bench, on which he sits with notes in his hands and “Enigma” nearby. Marian Rejewski’s bench
23
incorporation of the town of Fordon (p. 135) to Bydgoszcz in 1973. Industry had been booming, in particular chemical production, food processing, and electrical engineering. The municipal authorities had significantly expanded the existing industrial plants. Such factories as Eltra, Jutrzenka, Zachem, Kobra, Kabel, and Romet became the pride of the city (p. 115). In the 1970’s, the Myślęcinek Forest Park of Culture and Recreation (p. 66) was developed north of the city centre. This vast municipal park is called the lungs of Bydgoszcz. Music plays an important role in Bydgoszcz. Thanks to the efforts of, among others, Andrzej Szwalbe, the State Pomeranian Philharmonic
(p. 38) and the Opera
Theatre started to operate in the 1950’s.
Did you know that... Andrzej who
Szwalbe
managed
Philharmonic
the
for
Honorary Citizen of Bydgoszcz
(1923-2002),
Pomeranian
many
since
1993,
years,
was
undoubtedly the moving power of
cultural life in Bydgoszcz after the Second World War. T hanks to his
involvement
and
remarkable
energy, the new buildings of the Opera, bwa
were
Philharmonic,
Nowowiejski
built,
and
Academy
the of
Gallery Feliks
Music
was founded. He created a music district, in which his monument can be seen these days.
recognized landmarks of the city. On March 16, 1981, the national farmers’ strike was organized by the “Rural Solidarity” in
Bydgoszcz.
During
the “Bydgoszcz
March Events”, the invited members of the Bydgoszcz “Solidarity” led by Jan Rulewski were severely beaten at a session of the Voivodeship National Council. In 1999, Bydgoszcz became a co-capital (along with Toruń) of a newly established province
called
Kujawsko-Pomorskie
Voivodeship. In 2004, the Diocese of Exhibition in the Exploseum
24
Bydgoszcz was established by the decision of Pope John Paul II. In this way, the oldest place
In a short period, both institutions won
of worship in Bydgoszcz, late-Gothic Fara
recognition and a group of devoted fans
Church, was raised to the rank of cathedral.
in the country and abroad. They received
A year later, the first Bydgoszcz university -
new seats, which are listed among the most
Kazimierz Wielki University - was opened
Explore Bydgoszcz | History of Bydgoszcz based on the existing Bydgoszcz Academy. In November 2006, the second university was established in Bydgoszcz, which was founded as a result of restructuring of the Academy of Technology and Agriculture to the Jan and Jędrzej Śniadecki University of Technology and Life Sciences. These days, Bydgoszcz is a major industrial (Bydgoszcz Industrial and Technological Park, PESA, Unilever, and Atos) and cultural centre (Pomeranian Philharmonic, Opera Nova,
Sundial at the Collegium Copernicanum
Polish Theatre, District Museum, Municipal Gallery bwa). Since 2010, Bydgoszcz has
Music, Collegium Medicum of the Nicolaus
been hosting the International Film Festival
Copernicus University, and several large
of the Art of Cinematography “Camerimage”.
private higher education schools, which
The city is also bustling with exciting
are attended by a total of 40,000 students.
sporting
athletics,
The city boasts commendable military
football, speedway, basketball, and rowing),
traditions, which are now continued by
thanks to modern infrastructure (including
the Inspectorate for Armed Forces Support
the “Łuczniczka” Sports & Entertainment
and the NATO training centre – Joint Force
Hall, Zawisza Stadium, marina, and boat race
Training Centre. In addition, Bydgoszcz is
course). Bydgoszcz is also a major college
one of Poland’s leaders in revitalization
city, featuring two universities, Academy of
and restoration of riverside areas, bringing
events
(volleyball,
them back to the city. The Bydgoszcz Water Junction, part of the international waterway
Did you know that... Bydgoszcz residents also contri-
E70, and Mill Island are the pride of the city and its landmarks. Many historic sites and symbols of Bydgoszcz have been developed
buted to overthrow of the commu-
on the water over centuries.
Republic. In 1956, during a protest
Poland’s accession to the European Union.
nist regime of the Polish People’s against the ban on free speech,
the radio station on the Dąbrowski Hill,
jamming
foreign
programs
broadcasted for Poland, was destroyed.
On May 1, 2004, the city celebrated On that occasion, the “Man Crossing the River” Sculpture (p. 83) was unveiled, which quickly became the new symbol of Bydgoszcz. The honorary consulates for
25
tourist infrastructure include restoration and opening to the public the old German nitroglycerine factory “DAG Fabrik Bromberg” as Exploseum (p. 64), establishing of the Museum of Waterworks in the historical Water Tower and Gdańsk Forest, making the Bydgoszcz tourist offer very diverse. The statue Archer Lady Nova (near the Opera Nova), unveiled in 2013, has already become a symbol of changes taking place in Bydgoszcz.
Mill Island
Germany, Belgium, Czech Republic, Croatia and Hungary were opened in the city as well. In recent years, the city has been consistently turning its focus on the water. The revitalized Mill Island along with a modern marina became the new landmarks of the city. In addition, thanks to such investment
projects
as
reconstruction
of boulevards on the River Brda and revitalization of the park on the Old Bydgoszcz Canal, Bydgoszcz residents and visitors can enjoy additional recreation sites on the river. Other major investments in
Archer Lady Nova
26
Explore Bydgoszcz | Sports in Bydgoszcz
A brief history of sports
Sports in Bydgoszcz
Many generations of local residents have contributed to the positive image of Bydgoszcz sports. They include those, who nearly a hundred years ago, after the return of Bydgoszcz to Poland, celebrated their patriotism by establishing the city’s first athletic associations, organizations and clubs. Sports activity was combined with
Bydgoszcz is a city which is frequently
patriotic education. It developed not only
associated with sports. There are many
physical fitness, but also taught tradition,
sports clubs and institutions with deep-
history, and respect towards the idea. Until
rooted traditions, known not only in Poland,
1920, the local Germans were predominately
but also worldwide.
involved in organized sport. The city had
Numerous
have
football clubs, gymnastic societies, a tennis
witnessed historic events taking place in
club, and the Frithjof rowing association,
the city. The boat race course in Brdyujście,
which was the best known rowing club in
“Łuczniczka” Sports & Entertainment Hall
that period. The only counterbalance to
and Zawisza Stadium are some of the local
the German dominance in this field was the
arenas
sporting
Sokół Gymnastic Society, which was active
competitions. Bydgoszcz has produced
in Bydgoszcz from 1886. It promoted hiking
and trained our most outstanding national
and biking trips, and organized gymnastic
champions, champions of Europe and the
shows.
hosting
sporting
facilities
international
world, and Olympic winners.
Did you know that... Zbigniew Boniek, one of Poland’s most popular football players was
born and started his career in Bydgoszcz. T he present president
of the Polish Football Association
(since 2012) is an alumnus of Zawisza Bydgoszcz Club (currently in the Premier League), in which he played in 1968-1975.
Fans in Bydgoszcz
27
On the water On March 16, 1920, the Tryton Rowing
Thames.
Association was founded, which was soon
In April 1920, on the initiative of the
renamed the Bydgoszcz Rowing Association
Terminators’ Association, the Gwiazda Club
(BTW). It initiated a new, this time Polish
was established, which popularized such
history of sports in the city. Thanks to BTW,
sports as basketball, fencing, kayaking, and
Bydgoszcz became one of the major rowing
wrestling. It launched careers of such well-
centres in Poland. During the 1928 Olympics
known Polish athletes as Stefan Majewski
in Amsterdam, the coxed four from BTW
– footballer and coach, member of the
won the bronze medal, the first Olympic
Polish national team at the World Cup in
medal in the history of Polish rowing. After
Spain and Mexico; Marian Sypniewski – foil
the war, the most popular athlete of the
fencer, repeated Olympic medallist, and the
club was Teodor Kocerka, repeated Olympic
1978 world champion; Daniela Walkowiak –
bronze medallist from Helsinki and Rome,
kayaker, a three-time Olympian, winner of
the nineteen-time champion of Poland,
the bronze medal in K-2 in Rome in 1960,
medallist of the Championships of Europe
multi-time national champion, who also
and the double winner of the Diamond Oars
represented the Zawisza Bydgoszcz Club.
Rowing crew on the River Brda
28
for victory at the Royal Regatta on the River
Explore Bydgoszcz | Sports in Bydgoszcz The “Gwiazda” Marina is located near the Gwiazda Stadium. This marina, meeting all European standards, was opened in 2009. Situated on the Bydgoszcz Canal, in the proximity of historic locks, it offers everything that is needed by water sports enthusiasts. It should be added that a new, modern marina with a hotel was built on Mill Island, in the city centre. The
Regional
Rowing
Association
LOTTO-Bydgostia (RTW), the successor of
Speedway competitions at the Polonia Bydgoszcz Stadium
the Railway Rowing Club, is a prominent
whose daily job was journeyman butcher,
rowing organization. RTW is a 25-time (until
won the first Race Around Poland (known
2013) Team Champion of Poland. It has
today as Tour de Pologne) in 1928. Marian
been successful in defending this title for
Norkowski, aka “Mala”, was the most famous
over twenty years (starting from 1993). This
footballer of Polonia, an Olympian in Rome,
result is quite unique in Europe. The most
the top goal scorer in the Premier League in
famous athlete of the club is Robert Sycz,
1960, with 17 goals. In the 1950’s and 1960’s,
repeated Olympic champion in lightweight
Polonia hockey players were winning silver
double sculls from Sydney and Athens (with
and bronze medals at championships. In
Tomasz Kucharski, AZS Gorzów). Bartłomiej
1966, Polonia junior hockey players were
Pawełczak and Miłosz Bernatajtys won a
the best team in their age category in the
silver medal in the coxless four at the Beijing
country. However, the deep-rooted history
Olympic Games. Magdalena Fularczyk and
of the hockey team ended, as in many similar
Julia Michalska won silver medal in double
clubs, in 1989/90. Henryk Drzymalski, who is
sculls at the Olympic Games in London in
described as the second best tennis player
2012.
in our history, just after Fibak, marked a beautiful chapter in the history of Polonia. In 1974, he was the best, beating his great rival
On the raceway
and friend in the final of the Championships of Poland.
Polonia Bydgoszcz, which was founded
However, the most successful group
in May 1920, was initially a football club. Later,
of Polonia Bydgoszcz was its speedway
it added such sports as hockey, athletics,
team, winner of Team and Individual
tennis, cycling, and speedway. Feliks Więcek,
Championships of Poland, in both junior and
29
There is only one queen
Did you know that...
Athletics, “Queen of Sports”, has reigned in
in Bydgoszcz for many years. One of the
Tomasz Gollob, a former member
Ciepły, sprinter and hurdler, Olympic bronze
T he
most
outstanding
rider
the history of Polish speedway is
of the Polonia Club. T his individual and
team
world
champion
multi-time national champion.
is
a
senior categories. Mieczysław Połukard was Poland’s first speedway rider who competed in the final of Individual Championships of the World. Bydgoszcz has hosted international speedway competitions for many years. Some of the events organized at the Polonia stadium in Sportowa Street include the Individual Championships of Poland, since 1998 Speedway Grand Prix competitions, Speedway World Team Cup competitions, and since 1982 the Polish Speedway Cup competitions. In 2012, Bydgoszcz hosted the semi-final of the Speedway World Team Cup with the participation of the national team of Poland. The Bydgoszcz Polonia Club has its own speedway team in the Polish league, hosting speedway events at its stadium. In 2014, Polonia Bydgoszcz organized for the 16th time the Individual Speedway World Championship, Grand Prix. In 2014, the Polonia raceway will also host a play-off and final of the Speedway World Team Cup.
30
Honorary Citizens of Bydgoszcz is Teresa medallist in Rome, who won the gold and silver medals in Tokyo. Zdzisław Krzyszkowiak was named patron of the Zawisza sports
Explore Bydgoszcz | Sports in Bydgoszcz stadium. He was an Olympic champion in
Bochenek, and sprinter Marika Popowicz.
Rome, champion of Europe, and a 3000
All of them have already won medals at
metres steeplechase world record holder.
championships of Europe and the world. In
These two great sports personalities forged
addition, the Military Sports Group at CWZS
the way for new generations of Bydgoszcz
Zawisza brings together other athletes,
athletes. The Military Sports Group, which was
representing such sports as rowing, kayaking
established at CWZS, includes pole vaulters
– champion of the world Piotr Siemionowski,
Łukasz Michalski and Paweł Wojciechowski
shooting and weightlifting – champion of the
– Champion of the World, middle distance
world Marcin Dołęga.
runner Marcin Lewandowski, hurdler Dominik
Did you know that... Every year, between May and April,
the city hosts a 10-kilometre race called “Bydgoszcz na Start.”
Athletic competitions at the Zawisza Bydgoszcz Stadium
31
Over the net, under the basket, and between the goals
fans in Bydgoszcz. The older ones still re-
Four Bydgoszcz teams play in the top
member the teams of Polonia and Zawisza
national leagues:
that played in the Premier League in the
ced (in 2013) to the Premier League and won the Cup of Poland (2014). Football has had throngs of devoted
1950’s and 1960’s, whereas the younger
ÂÂ
Male volleyball players of Trans-
ones recall the time of Miłoszewicz, Boniek,
fer Bydgoszcz, who (as Delecta
and Brończyk.
Bydgoszcz) were ranked fourth in the Premier League in the 2012-2013 accomplishment;
Not only first-class athletes
Female basketball players of Artego
Starting from the late 1990’s, the city has been
Bydgoszcz were ranked third in
hosting many prominent sporting events,
the 2013-2014 season of the Polish
particularly athletics meetings. It organized
Premier League;
the First IAAF World Junior Championships
Bydgoszcz Women’s Football Club
for youth (under-18) athletes in 1999, the
currently plays in the Women’s
European Athletics Championships for
Premier Football League;
athletes under the age of 23, SPAR European
Great football returned to Bydgoszcz
Cup, IAAF World Junior Championships,
thanks to the Zawisza Bydgoszcz
IAAF World Cross Country Championships,
team. After 19 years the team advan-
and the European Athletics Festival. The
season, which was their greatest
ÂÂ
ÂÂ ÂÂ
Zdzisław Krzyszkowiak Zawisza Stadium is a perfect venue for athletics competitions. Its fantastic atmosphere encourages athletes to achieve great results. The Zawisza Stadium is an advanced facility, modernized from scratch in 2007-2008, meeting the standards of the International Association of Athletics Federations (IAAF). Its stands can seat over 20,000 spectators. The building under the new stand features conference rooms, restaurants, fitness rooms, and the Bydgoszcz Zdzisław Krzyszkowiak Zawisza Bydgoszcz Stadium
32
Explore Bydgoszcz | Sports in Bydgoszcz Sports Gallery. During the last decade, the Zawisza Stadium has hosted several games of the Polish national football team. The city is also proud of its “Łuczniczka” Sports & Entertainment Hall, which was opened in 2002. This state-of-the-art facility, sitting picturesquely on the River Brda, serves as a venue hosting sporting events, exhibitions, and concerts. It can seat over 6,000 spectators. Since 2005, Łuczniczka has been organizing Pedro’s Cup Bydgoszcz attracting the
Volleyball competitions at HSW Łuczniczka
world’s best athletes and hordes of fans. The
since 1992. This boat race becomes more
unique atmosphere of the competition and
popular with each year. It attracts the best
enthusiastic fans attract a host of athletic stars to Bydgoszcz. Łuczniczka also organizes events for volleyball fans, who were able to
Did you know that...
see competitions of the Men’s Volleyball
In September 2014, six games will
World League, European Championships and Grand Prix in women’s volleyball, and the Hubert Wagner Memorial in 2010. In August 2011, another edition of the World Grand Prix was inaugurated in Bydgoszcz. Other exciting events organized in this arena include games of the North-South Polish Basketball League, Polish national teams and stars, European Basketball Championship for men in 2009 and for women in 2011. In 2010, Łuczniczka
be played here in the Volleyball Men’s T his
World
tournament
Championship. led
to
the
construction of “Łuczniczka Bis”, which
is
currently
being
built
next to the main arena. During the
Championships,
it
will
be
used as a training facility. It will seat 1,479 spectators. After the championships, it will be used by local sports clubs.
hosted the Poland-Belgium tennis match of
rowers from Germany, Belarus, Lithuania and
FEDCUP, which was attended by Poland’s best
Ukraine, as well as the legendary Cambridge
tennis player Agnieszka Radwańska. In April,
and Oxford crews. The event draws crowds
2011, Krzysztof “Diablo” Włodarczyk defended
of tourists to the city and residents who
his WBC (World Boxing Council) cruiserweight
are interested in this unusual boat race of
world champion title.
coxed eights. It should be remembered
Bydgoszcz has been hosting the
that Bydgoszcz boat races involving both
Bydgoszcz Rowing Regatta for the Brda Cup
rowers and kayakers are organized primarily
33
at Brdyujście boat race course, which hosts
Watch sports
many prominent national events. Some of
Sports enthusiasts should visit the
the athletes who train here include Beata
exhibition at the Bydgoszcz Sports Gallery,
Mikołajczyk, Champion of the World and
offering a unique time and space travel. The
Europe, and medallist of the Olympic Games
Gallery shows the deeply-rooted history of
in Beijing and London in women’s canoe
sports in the city, rekindles memories and
sprint K-2.
encourages living through the greatest
Sports in Bydgoszcz are associated
sports thrills. The exhibition features, among
not only with competitions of athletes.
other things, archive materials concerning
Considerable experience, professional work,
the Zawisza Stadium, presents archives and
great results of preparations and excellent
trophies of the Bydgoszcz clubs, medals won
final results of sporting events hosted by the
by local disabled athletes, as well as souvenirs,
city have been recognized by participants and
equipment and awards of the Olympic
visitors invited from all over the world.
medallists. The Gallery also serves as the seat
Bydgoszcz was also noticed in the 76th
of the Regional Olympic Council.
Plebiscite of sports daily “Przegląd Sportowy”
136 Gdańska St., tel. +48 52 588 08 39,
and Polish Television. The city was awarded
www.galeria-sportu.pl, Mon-Fri 8:00 am- 4:00 pm
Regular Sporting Events: Pedro’s Cup, January/February, www.pedroscup.pl – International Athletics Indoor Meeting, during which the best athletes compete in many sports. For several years it has attracted disabled athletes and Rowing Regatta
competitions between Bydgoszcz schools.
the Champion statuette and the title Poland’s Sporting Events Host of the Year 2010. European Athletics Festival, June, www. efl.bydgoszcz.pl – This event has become a permanent fixture in the calendar of Polish and European athletics competitions.
34
Explore Bydgoszcz | Sports in Bydgoszcz Speedway Grand Prix, www.speedwaygp.com – A very important event in the calendar of speedway fans. On this day, the top sixteen speedway riders compete in Bydgoszcz to score the best result in the World Championship standings. The Grand Prix event was hosted by Bydgoszcz at the stadium in 2 Sportowa Street for the fifteenth time in 2014. Bydgoszcz Rowing Regatta for the Brda Cup, September, www.wielkawioslarska.pl – Boat races organized on the River Brda between the Bernardyński Bridge and Sulimy-Kamińskiego Bridge. Bydgoszcz Double Marathon, www.dwumaraton.pl – A series of five meetings in the winter months, during which participants have to run two marathon courses. They are picturesquely located on the Bydgoszcz Canal.
Useful addresses: Astoria Sports and Entertainment Hall 23 Królowej Jadwigi St., tel. +48 52 325 73 50 GWIAZDA Sports Club 45 Bronikowskiego St., tel. +48 52 379 78 01 Zdzisław Krzyszkowiak Zawisza Sports Complex/Stadium CWZS “Zawisza” Sports Hall 163 Gdańska St., tel. +48 52 588 08 01, www.zawisza.bydgoszcz.pl ŁUCZNICZKA Sports and Entertainment Hall ul. Toruńska 59, tel. +48 52 376 22 00, www.luczniczka.bydgoszcz.pl
Tennis courts
“ZAWISZA” BKS Sports Club 2 Żupy St., tel. +48 52 371 88 19 – Two outdoor courts CWZS “ZAWISZA” 163 Gdańska St. – Five outdoor courts (3 courts closed in winter), tel. +48 601 783 541
TKKF ŚRÓDMIEŚCIE 10a Markwarta St. – Four outdoor courts, tel. +48 602 281 114 TKKF ZJEDNOCZENI 33b Skłodowskiej-Curie St. – Five courts (outdoor) tel. +48 52 342 17 19 TKKF ŚWIT 70 Nakielska St. – Four courts (outdoor), tel.+48 52 373 10 87 TKKF ORZEŁ 2a Abrahama St. – Four courts (outdoor), tel. +48 604 291 679 Complex of Schools no. 5 Konfederatów Barskich St. – two courts (indoor), Gen. Zygmunta Berlinga St. – two courts (indoor), tel. +48 52 343 66 67 “Centrum” Tennis Club 8 Nowotoruńska St. – Four courts (outdoor), tel. +48 52 375 55 87, www.centrumtaem.pl PARTNER Tennis Club 2 Sportowa St. – two courts (indoor), tel. +48 52 583 00 59, www.phu-partner.com.pl
35
Bydgoszcz Tennis Association 61a Toruńska St. – Four courts, tel. +48 601 679 973
Boat Race Course in Brdyujście
The boat race course is located in the eastern part of Bydgoszcz, at 26 Witebska Street.
Jogging trails:
Swimming pools
Bryza Swimming Pool, Elementary School No. 63 3 Goszczyńskiego St., tel. +48 52 340 47 17 www.sp63.eu Perła Swimming Pool 11 Grzymały-Siedleckiego St. tel. +48 52 361 58 26, www.perla.maximum.pl Astoria Swimming Pool 23 Królowej Jadwigi St. tel. +48 52 325 73 50, www.zawisza.bydgoszcz.pl (indoor and outdoor swimming pool) Laguna Swimming Pool 117 Glinki St., tel. +48 52 345 17 62, www.zs26.nazwa.pl Ikar Swimming Pool 7 Duracza St., tel. +48 52 343 09 66, www.sp65.bydgoszcz.pl Bajka Recreation Centre Swimming Pool 7 Szczęśliwa St., tel. +48 52 344 74 90, www.bajka.bydgoszcz.pl Sardynka Swimming Pool 7 Sardynkowa St., tel. +48 52 372 27 70, www.basensardynka.prv.pl Swimming Pool of the Complex of Medical Schools 10 Swarzewska St., tel. +48 52 342 37 53, www.medyk.bydgoszcz.pl Swimming Pool of the Youth Palace 27 Jagiellońska St., tel. +48 52 321 00 81, www.palac.bydgoszcz.pl
36
- On the Old Canal - Park Route in Myślęcinek - Running trail alongside Kamienna Street - Running trail in the Death Valley - Trail across the Bydgoszcz Forest, alongside Dąbrowa Street - Trail alongside the boulevard on the River Brda - Running trail in the Industrial Park
Rollerblading trails:
- Trail alongside Gdańska Street in Myślęcinek - Trail in the Bydgoszcz Industrial Park - Myślęcinek – between the little lakes and the ZOO - Myślęcinek – the main alley (Hipiczna Street)
Did you know that... T he
CALIST HENICS
ACADEMY
has
been operating in Bydgoszcz since 2013.
Calisthenics
activities
are
consisting
physical
in
using
one’s own body weight to exercise. People
can
test
their
physical
fitness at the CALIST HENICS PARK at 3 Strzelecka Street.
Explore Bydgoszcz | Cultural Bydgoszcz
The cultural offer of Bydgoszcz is very
Cultural Bydgoszcz
broad thanks to such institutions as the Pomeranian Philharmonic, the Opera Nova, and the Municipal Centre for Culture, which hosts social meetings, concerts, and movie screenings in the Orzeł Cinema. In addition, the Centre administers the “Wspólna” Gallery and the Ostromecko Palace and Park
The beauty of Bydgoszcz consists in the
(p. 147). Once a year, Bydgoszcz becomes a
fact that the city remains largely unexplored
capital of international cinema thanks to the
in terms of history, architecture, and
CAMERIMAGE International Film Festival of
culture. It waits to be explored by both local
the Art of Cinematography.
residents and tourists.
Camerimage International Film Festival
37
Musical Bydgoszcz
operated at the Polish Radio Broadcasting Station in Bydgoszcz.
Bydgoszcz has for years been deservedly
However, the man who had preserved
called a city of music. The musical traditions of
this musical image of the city was Andrzej
the city date back to the 17th century, when
Szwalbe, a long-term director of the I. J.
the local Jesuit College had a theatre staging
Paderewski Pomeranian Philharmonic in
performances involving music and singing.
Bydgoszcz.
Numerous choirs and music ensembles,
The Pomeranian Philharmonic founded
which had been active in later years,
on January 1, 1953 is the pride of Bydgoszcz.
continued these traditions. They were also involved in preserving the Polish language in the city, where the Germans were in the
Did you know that...
vast majority. After the Second World War,
After the death of Andrzej Szwalbe,
Bydgoszcz gained in popularity thanks to Arnold Rezler’s Orchestra, which from 1945
in
order
to
commemorate
his
great service to Bydgoszcz, the
name of the street in which the Philharmonic stands was changed.
It used to stand in Libelta Street, which
is
currently
renamed
Andrzeja Szwalbego Street.
Pomeranian Philharmonic
38
Explore Bydgoszcz | Cultural Bydgoszcz It’s not only a place of music, but also a place of culture. The Philharmonic is decorated with innumerable busts of composers, standing inside and outside this stately building, as well as an extensive collection of tapestries commissioned by Andrzej Szwalbe, made by outstanding Polish artists. The Philharmonic has a concert hall that boasts the best acoustics in Poland and one of the best in Europe. Therefore, it is used for recordings made by great musicians, who in interviews frequently praise the acoustics of the Bydgoszcz concert hall. It also hosts some of the oldest music festivals in Poland. One of them is the Bydgoszcz Music Festival, organized since 1963. Alternately with the Bydgoszcz Music Festival, the Philharmonic
One of the pianos from Andrzej Szwalbe’s collection, which is now displayed in Ostromecko
hosts a unique festival called Musica Antiqua
Paderewski Piano Competition, organized by
Europae Orientalis – Festival of Early Music
the I. J. Paderewski Music Society. It’s worth
of Central and Eastern Europe. It has been
mentioning that Jerzy Maksymiuk was the
organized since 1966, attracting artists and
winner of the first competition held in 1961.
musicologists with truly encyclopaedic
Every three years, Bydgoszcz attracts young,
names.
talented pianists from all over the world. They
A beautiful chapter in the history of
present to the audience their craft and the
the city is marked by the International
wealth of music composed by Paderewski and his contemporaries. The high rank of the
Did you know that... A sizeable collection of Andrzej Szwalbe’s
pianos,
which
was
once featured in the Pomeranian
competition is confirmed by the fact that it was accepted to the World Federation of International Music Competitions in Geneva, being listed in the group of 128 most prestigious music competitions in the world.
Philharmonic, is now displayed in Ostromecko Palace.
39
Spring belongs to the Bydgoszcz Opera Festival, which entered the calendar of music
Did you know that... We
can
undoubtedly
say
Ignacy
Jan
Paderewski
lending
his
name
Bydgoszcz’s
patron
of
events in April 1994. Initially, it was supposed
that
became music,
to help in the construction of the opera building, which had continued for over twenty years. The first festival was held in the building
local
under construction, featuring walls without
Society, Pomeranian Philharmonic,
cables hanging from the ceiling and lots of
piano and
which
competition,
finally also
to
the
Bydgoszcz
bears
the
the
Music
Airport,
name
of
this outstanding statesman and brilliant pianist.
plaster, audiences sitting on folding chairs, dust everywhere. However the atmosphere during the first festival was very unique, hard to find in similar events. Today, the festival lives a life of its own, and the Opera Nova is regarded as one of the most modern and beautiful buildings in Poland. Situated on the
40
Explore Bydgoszcz | Cultural Bydgoszcz River Brda, it serves as the cultural landmark
very unique. It comprises three institutions,
of the city. It attracts opera ensembles from
namely the Pomeranian Philharmonic,
all over the world, including the famous
Academy of Music and A. Rubinstein Complex
contemporary Swedish Cullberg Ballet, Béjart
of Music Schools. As far as contemporary
Ballet of Lausanne, ensembles from Cuba,
music is concerned, we need to mention the
Spain and many other countries. Therefore,
local cult club which is “Mózg”. Every year, it
it’s not surprising that the Bydgoszcz Opera
organizes the “Mózg Festiwal”, which presents
Festival draws opera aficionados from all over
alternative music from across the world. The
Poland to Bydgoszcz. It should be mentioned
Eljazz Club organizes the Jazz Festival, inviting
that Bydgoszcz has a year-long calendar of
well-known jazz musicians to Bydgoszcz. For
opera events, reporting some of the highest
those who prefer a heavier sound, StageBar
attendances in the country for events.
is a perfect concert venue.
The repertoire is dominated by the most notable performances, loved by audiences, including Verdi’s La Traviata and Nabucco, and Puccini’s Tosca. It also produces less known performances which are rarely shown by other opera theatres in Poland such as Arrigo Boito’s Mefistofele and Amilcare Ponchielli’s La Gioconda, to name just a few. As we can see, Bydgoszcz was deservedly called the music heartland by the notable music critic Jerzy Waldorff.
Opera Nova
The musical image of Bydgoszcz is completed by the F. Nowowiejski Academy of Music, whose most outstanding graduate is Rafał Blechacz, winner of the 15th International Chopin Piano Competition. Concerts given by students and teachers of this school, just to mention the series “Academy in Historic Sites”, became permanent items in the calendar of cultural events in the city. The local Music District, the only neighbourhood of this type in Poland, is
11th Bydgoszcz Jazz Festival
41
Bydgoszcz theatres
situation took place after the Second World War. Even before all the cannons had fallen
There is a reason why our outstanding
silent, Polish words were coming from
theatre critic Adam Grzymała-Siedlecki
the stage. The first post-war premiere was
chose Bydgoszcz as his place of residence in
Aleksander Fredro’s Zemsta (The Revenge),
1922. The Municipal Theatre was operating
staged on March 27, 1945. Witnesses
in the city as early as 1920, playing great
recalled that when the actors were reciting
Polish dramas led by the plays written by
the words written by Fredro, spectators
Słowacki and Wyspiański. At that time,
were crying. These days, the Bydgoszcz
theatre was supposed to unite Poles, giving
theatre is known primarily for its Festival of
them Polish words and teaching them
World Premieres held in autumn, attracting
patriotism. Wanda Siemaszkowa, the first
theatres and critics from all over Poland.
director of the Municipal Theatre, took a
The festival creates a unique opportunity
big risk when she decided to play operas
to show the world’s contemporary plays.
and operettas in the theatre, hoping to
Bydgoszcz is a place to watch the most
attract audiences in great numbers. The first
recent plays performed according to the
production staged in 1921 was Stanisław
visions of the most outstanding directors,
Moniuszko’s
performance
which charm or outrage audiences. The main
shows that the selection of both dramatic
focus of the Polish Theatre in Bydgoszcz is its
and musical repertoire was influenced by
contemporary message and dialogue with
the patriotic factor at that time. A similar
the viewer.
Halka.
This
“The Cherry Orchard”, Polish Theatre
42
Explore Bydgoszcz | Cultural Bydgoszcz
Artistic Bydgoszcz District
collection comprises over 5,000 works made
Museum has several buildings in various
The
Leon
Wyczółkowski
by the most accomplished Polish artists
parts of the city. The vast majority of them
during the last decades. The interesting Art
are situated on the picturesque Mill Island. It
Nouveau collections, in which the Museum
features Leon Wyczółkowski’s House, which
specializes, also deserve mention.
is a museum building with restored interiors
Mill Island is called the Island of
Leon Wyczółkowski’s House
of a house in nearby Gościeradz, in which
Museums, but Gdańska Street, which is the
the patron of the Bydgoszcz museum used
main thoroughfare of the city, is also known
to live in the early 20th century. Here, we can
for its contemporary art exhibited by the
admire the splendid paintings and graphic
Municipal Gallery, bwa. Established in 1949
artworks made by Wyczółkowski and enjoy
as the Artistic Exhibitions’ Agency, it was
the unique belle époque atmosphere. Next
supposed to showcase the accomplishments
to it, the spacious Red Granary features the
of a large group of local artists from
Contemporary Art Gallery with a sizeable
Bydgoszcz and Toruń. In addition bwa has
collection of contemporary paintings. The
hosted exhibitions presenting works of
43
such internationally known artists as Andy Warhol, Pablo Picasso, and Salvador Dali. At 5 Chocimska Street, there is one of Poland’s oldest private galleries. The “Autorska” Gallery, founded in 1975 by painter Jan Kaja and graphic artist Jacek Soliński, is a unique establishment. It organizes exhibitions of artists coming from various communities and cities, as well as poetry evenings, meetings with writers, performances, concerts, and lectures. These are only some of the addresses that are worth remembering, since they are known for their great traditions and equally interesting present-day activities. There are many more similar addresses. A careful traveller will certainly discover them when walking among the local Art Nouveau tenement houses. The space between them is also filled with culture, particularly in the summer. A street art festival, known as the Buskers Festival, has become a popular event hosted by the city. Thanks to the artists who perform within an arm’s reach, a unique atmosphere is created in the city in the summer.
Regular events:
04
[April]
Bydgoszcz Opera Festival, www.opera.bydgoszcz.pl International cultural event – presentation of the most interesting opera and ballet productions, an event with a recognized artistic brand and tradition. International Competition for Young Pianists Arthur Rubinstein in memoriam, www.konkurs-rubinstein.bydgoszcz.pl The idea of the competition was inspired by the words of Arthur Rubinstein, who when giving a concert in the newly built hall of the Pomeranian Philharmonic in 1960 said: You have a great concert hall, which should serve as a venue of international concerts. Bydgoszcz Festival “Travellers”, www.podroznicy.byd.pl A two-day holiday of travel inspirations, providing an opportunity for moving into the world of travel.
05
[May]
European Night of Museums The main idea of this event is popularisation of museum collections amongst broad audiences. Night visiting is accompanied by vernissages, lectures, workshops, concerts and shows.
44
Explore Bydgoszcz | Cultural Bydgoszcz Air Fair “Everything for Aviation”, www.airfair.pl Consolidation of the aviation community, both military and civilian. A perfect
06
[June]
Heading on Bydgoszcz,
opportunity for establishing relations
www.sternabydgoszcz.pl
between entrepreneurs, manufacturers and
The biggest holiday of water sports enthusiasts
users of planes and aviation equipment.
in Kujawsko-Pomorskie Voivodeship. It is a unique project, combining the communities
Bydgoszcz Science Festival,
of sailors, artists and travellers.
www.festiwal.ukw.edu.pl A popular science event, showing in a simple
International Street Art Festival
and friendly way the latest achievements of
Busker Fest,
science and technology.
www.buskerfest.pl An international meeting of the community of
Andrzej Zaucha Memorial Festival
travelling artists called “buskers”. The festival
“Serca Bicie”, www.zauchafestiwal.pl
features concerts, shows, performances and
This musical undertaking combines generations
events presented in the streets of Bydgoszcz.
and passions in one place, rekindling memories of this popular singer and commemorating him.
Bydgoszcz Buskers Festival
45
09
[September] The Premiere Festival www.teatrpolski.pl The Premiere Festival is a national theatre festival organized since 2002 by the Polish Theatre in Bydgoszcz. Its repertoire features world premieres of theatre plays. Bydgoszcz Music Impressions
Kuyavian-Pomeranian Fair,
St. John’s Fair,
www.myslecinek.pl
www.wok.bydgoszcz.com
Promotion of flavours, dances, music and
Presentations of handicrafts made primarily
crafts from the entire region. The fair is also
by folk artists from the areas of Kuyavia,
an opportunity to taste regional delicacies,
Kashubia, Pałuki, Tuchola Forest and Krajna.
serving also as a festival of early autumn fruit
There are also representatives of unique craft
and plants for our gardens.
trades from all over the country.
www.bim.palac.bydgoszcz.pl
10
International Meetings of Musical Youth is a
Antiqua Europa Orientalis,
festival attracting talented young people from
October-November,
all over the world.
www.filharmonia.bydgoszcz.pl
07
These festivals are the flagship cultural
Bulwar Fest
cultural brand of the Region of Kuyavia and
Festival for hip-hop and guitar fans organized
Pomerania.
Bydgoszcz Music Impressions, June-July,
[July]
[October]
Bydgoszcz Music Festival and Musica
events in the north of Poland. For over fifty years they have been known as the leading
by the Municipal Centre for Culture and the StageBar Club.
Bydgoszcz Jazz Festival, October-November, bydgoszczjazzfestival.com.pl
46
Explore Bydgoszcz | Cultural Bydgoszcz During eleven editions of the festival,
Camerimage, www.camerimage.pl
syncopated music lovers had an opportunity
CAMERIMAGE International Film Festival of
to listen to internationally renowned jazz stars
the Art of Cinematography is the biggest and
as well as Polish and regional artists.
best known festival dedicated to the art of
11
cinematographers.
[November]
International
Paderewski
Gdańska Street Festival Piano
An outdoor event entertaining all residents of
Competition,
the City Centre and visitors. Attractions include
www.konkurspaderewskiego.pl
discounts in local shops, guided tours, concerts
One of the biggest international competitions
and shows.
in Poland, held every three years. It commemorates Ignacy Paderewski, Poland’s
Independence Day Celebrations,
brilliant virtuoso, composer and politician.
www.bylot.pl An event building the historical identity
Muzyka u źródeł – Chamber Music Festival,
of Bydgoszcz, through the participation of
www.muzykauzrodel.art.pl
residents of the city and region in historical
A unique artistic event, which has been
re-enactments, exhibitions, concerts and
attracting chamber music lovers since 2009.
accompanying activities, including sporting
The concerts are hosted by the Barock
events.
Quartet. Mózg Festival, .festiwal.mozg.pl The interests of the Mózg Festival include all types of contemporary music, visual arts and performance. Drums Fuzje, www.mck-bydgoszcz.pl www.mck-bydgoszcz.pl The Festival presents outstanding Polish percussionists along with invited jazz musicians from Poland and abroad.
47
Pomeranian Philharmonic 6 Andrzeja Szwalbego St., tel. +48 52 321 04 67, www.filharmonia.bydgoszcz.pl
Useful addresses: Municipal Centre for Culture 12-14 Marcinkowskiego St., tel. +48 52 32 55 540, www.mck.bydgoszcz.pl Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. 10-20 10-20 10-20 10-20 10-20
Mon. Tue. 14-18 14-18
Sat. -
box office:
Wed. Thurs. 14-18 14-18
Fri. 14-18
box office:
Sat. -
Sun. -
on the day of the concert, one hour before and one hour after the concert
Sun. -
During weekends, an hour before a ticketed event.
Youth Palace 27 Jagiellońska St., tel. +48 52 321 00 81, www.palac.bydgoszcz.pl
Kuyavian-Pomeranian Cultural Centre 6 Kościeleckich Sq. , tel. +48 52 585 15 06, www.wok.bydgoszcz.com
Polish Theatre 2 Mickiewicza Av., tel. +48 52 339 78 18, www.teatrpolski.pl box office:
Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. 12-18 12-18 12-18 12-18
15-50 PLN
Sat. -
Sun. -
15-35 PLN
Leon Wyczółkowski District Museum (Granaries on the River Brda) 7 Grodzka St. and Mill Island (Leon Wyczółkowski’s House, Modern Art Gallery, European Money Centre and Archaeological Collection) tel. +48 52 585 99 66, www.muzeum.bydgoszcz.pl
Opera Nova 5 Marszałka Focha St., tel.+48 52 325 15 02, www.opera.bydgoszcz.pl box office: Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. 18-19* 15-18 15-18 15-18 18-19*
Sat. 15-18
Sun. 16-18:30
*only during the day of the performance 20-80 PLN 20-50 PLN
48
Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. 10-17 10-17 10-19 10-17 11-17 11-17
Mon. -
Tue. 9-16
Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. 9-16 9-18 9-16 10-16 10-16
Apr.-Sept. Oct.-Mar.
5 PLN 3 PLN up to 16 yrs. old/1 PLN guide: 10 PLN group guide: 30 PLN Saturdays - free admission
Explore Bydgoszcz | Cultural Bydgoszcz Exploseum Bydgoskich Przemysłowców St. www.exploseum.pl
Museum of the Bydgoszcz Canal 3 Nowogrodzka St., tel. +48 693 765 075, www.muzeumkanalu.pl
Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. 9-17 9-17 10-19 9-17 9-17
Sun. 9-17
Apr.-Sept.
Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. 9-17 9-17 9-17 9-17 9-17
Sun. 9-17
Oct.-Mar.
After prior reservation arrannged by calling: +48 883 366 056 15 PLN 12 PLN 8 PLN/person
Museum of Waterworks Pump Room: 242 Gdańska St. Water Tower: 1 Filarecka St. tel. +48 882 050 656, www.muzeum.mwik.bydgoszcz.pl Mon. 11-16
Tue. 11-16
5 PLN
Wed. 11-16
Thurs. 11-16
2 PLN
Fri. 10-16
Sat. 13-17
Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. - 8:30-15:30 8:30-15:30 8:30-15:30 8:30-15:30 -
free admission
Museum of Photography 14 Królowej Jadwigi St., tel. +48 52 567 00 07, www.muzeumfoto.byd.pl
Mon. -
Tue. 10-18
5 PLN
Wed. 10-18
Thurs. 10-18
Fri. 10-18
Sat. 10-15
Sun. -
3 PLN
Sun. 13-17
10 PLN
Museum of Land Forces 2 Czerkaska St., tel. +48 52 378 20 26, www.muzeumwl.pl
Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. - 8:30-15:30 8:30-15:30 8:30-15:30 8:30-15:30 - 10-14
6 PLN 4 PLN 3 PLN/person guide: 18 PLN Tuesday: free admission
Museum of Photography
Museum of Education 4 Marii Skłodowskiej-Curie St., tel. +48 52 342 65 90, www.muzeumoswiaty_bydgoszcz.republika.pl
Tue. 10-18
Wed. 10-18
Thurs. 10-18
Fri. 10-18
Sat. 10-18
Tue. 9-17
Wed. 8-15
Thurs. -
Fri. 8-15
Sat. -
Sun. -
1 PLN
Museum of Soap and History of Dirt 13-17 Długa St., tel. +48 52 515 70 15, www.muzeummydla.pl Mon. 10-18
Mon. 8-15
Sun. 10-18
12 PLN 36 PLN (children under 3 free of charge) After prior reservation Night of Museums
49
Museum of Pharmacy of the “Pod Łabędziem” Pharmacy 5 Gdańska St. (entrance from Drukarska Street), tel. +48 52 322 01 87 Mon. 8-20
Tue. 8-20
Wed. 8-20
Thurs. 8-20
Fri. 8-20
Sat. 8-16
Municipal Gallery bwa 20 Gdańska St., tel. +48 52 339 30 50, www.galeriabwa.bydgoszcz.pl Sun. -
free admission Guided tour – groups <15 people 30 PLN, – groups >15 people 2 PLN per person. After prior reservation
Sat. -
Thurs. Fri. 9-15:30 9-15:30
Mon. 8-16
Tue. 8-16
Wed. 8-16
Thurs. 8-16
Fri. 8-16
Sat. -
free admission
Sat. -
Chamber of Bydgoszcz Railways Traditions Inwalidów St., tel. +48 698 357 411, www.btpk.weebly.com free admission After prior reservation.
Sun. -
After prior reservation free admission Exhibition at the Municipal Gallery bwa
50
Sun. -
Sun. -
Bernardine Library (Witold Bełza Provincial and Municipal Public Library) 39 Długa St., tel. +48 52 339 92 02 Wed. 9-15:30
10 PLN 5 PLN guide – PLN 10 (until 3:00 pm)
free admission
Mon. Tue. 9-15:30 9-17
Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. 10-18 10-18 12-20 10-18 11:30-16:30 11:30-16:30
Bydgoszcz Sports Gallery 163 Gdańska St., tel. +48 52 588 08 39, www.galeria-sportu.pl
Museum of Polish Diplomacy and Emigration 4 Berwińskiego St., tel. +48 52 346 23 18 Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. 10-16 10-16 10-16 10-16 10-16
Explore Bydgoszcz | Bydgoszcz Specialties bakeries were opened in the city centre. They were serving tasty and always fresh Danish pastries, cream puffs made from choux pastry, and flummery. At home, people delighted in the taste of chocolates made by the “Lukullus” Sugar and Chocolate
Bydgoszcz Specialties
Factory and the Tysler Brothers (both of them were nationalized after the Second World War, merged and named “Jutrzenka”, which has been operating under this name to this day).
During your stay in Bydgoszcz, it’s
Ask for fresh and tasty Danish pastries
worth finding time to try local specialties.
in the morning in the bakery of Katarzyna
There is something for everyone, including
Erdmann at 2 Długa Street (over fifty
chocolates, goose meat, locally brewed beer,
years of baking tradition and an oven that
and bread with potatoes …
remembers the First World War!) and the bakery of the Bigoński family, founded in 1924 at 87 Gdańska Street. Its interior design
Sweet history
dates back to the interwar period; the décor
The love of Bydgoszcz residents for sweets started before the First World War. Elegant, family-owned cake shops and
Did you know that...
features the coat of arms of the bakers – two griffins holding a pretzel.
Chocolates and baked goods made by Sowa “Adam Sowa,” a family-owned confec-
While writing of sweets, we need
tionery company founded in 1946, popular
to mention Bydgoszcz ice cream.
among Bydgoszcz residents, has become
For many years, in many polls,
one of the tourist stops on the “sweet” map
Bydgoszcz
almost
of the city. One of the attractions is the hand-
unanimously recommended Café
made chocolates, known for their unique
Primo ice cream shop (18 Gdań-
flavour. Their secret is a thin layer of choco-
ska Street, the narrow access to
late, underneath which is an aromatic, liquid
the Kazimierz Wielki Park), with
ganache (filling). Residents and tourists also
one special ice cream in the
delight in cakes and layer cakes, which were
residents
Bydgoszcz flavour.
51
the specialty of master baker Feliks Sowa, the
residents was based on cheap and generally
founder of the company. In 1962, he made
available
the first “flagship” chocolate layer cake in his
quickly noticed that adding boiled and
bakery. Sponge cake, layered with jam and
mashed potatoes to the bread dough
covered completely with melted milk choco-
increases the number of baked loaves and
late set popularity records. While visiting the
improves the taste of the bread. In addition,
coffee house at 5 Mostowa Street, we can try
they reduced the perishability of the bread
a cup of house coffee – “Sowa Café” and take
and extended its freshness. Today, the only
a look at reprints of photographs of old Byd-
establishment that preserves these old
goszcz, taken a hundred years ago.
traditions is the Bydgoszcz bakery Murmiłło.
potatoes.
Clever
housewives
Potato rye bread has a crispy, golden brown crust and is soft inside, having a flavour and aroma of roasted potatoes. The time of preparation of this bread is very long, 22 hours; its baking time is 1.5 hours. Thanks to its unique features and long history, the bread was registered on the list of traditional
products
of
the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development. Pralines from Sowa confectionery
Bread with potatoes
regional meat delicatessen, JD Spychalscy, at 6 Batorego Street (while
Potato rye bread is one of the oldest
stopping at this shop, we recommend
culinary recipes from the Bydgoszcz area.
trying one of the house hams made using
In the past, bread was baked from flour
traditional methods), in the Murmiłło
processed at a farm or purchased from
company store at 60 Sienkiewicza Street,
the mill. It was rather expensive. On the
and at Zimmer Café, 7 Gdańska Street.
other hand, the basic nutrition of the local
52
It can be purchased in the
Explore Bydgoszcz | Bydgoszcz Specialties
Bread from Murmiłło Bakery
Did you know that... For many decades, the recipe of the potato rye bread was passed around by word of mouth. T he recipe was finally written down for the first time in 1831 in the “Education for Peasants”, and later in 1915, in the “Cookbook for the Polish Nation”.
Goose meat
as the 19th century goose breeding was seasonal and lasted between spring and
Recently, the old-Polish traditions of
late autumn, with slaughter carried out just
eating goose meat have been restored in
before November 11. On the Feast of Saint
Kuyavia and Pomerania. It’s not surprising,
Martin (the patron saint of birds, particularly
since the region is one of the biggest
geese), people ate roast goose, sweetly
producers of this tasty meat that has been
flavoured (with fruit). For winter, goose meat
underestimated. The interest in goose meat is
was seasoned (chopped, raw meat that was
noticeable in particular in November, on the
ripened) and cured (marinated and smoked
Feast of Saint Martin observed on November
goose breasts). The latter were registered on
11. This time is not accidental, since as early
the list of traditional products of the Ministry
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of Agriculture and Rural Development. Roast goose with fruit, cured goose meat, goose liver pate, and soup made from goose blood called “Czernina” are delicious meals
Beer from the local brewery The traditions of Bydgoszcz brewing
that can be tasted at the “Goose Meat Trail”:
date back to the origins of the city. In the
ÂÂ
“Weranda” Restaurant in the Bohema
14th century, every townsman, owner of a lot
Hotel,
within the city walls, had the right to brew and
“1921” Restaurant in the Pod Orłem
sell beer. Bydgoszcz beer was served in inns, in
Hotel,
the area stretching from Wielkopolska to the
“Za Piecem” Restaurant,
Baltic Sea. In the following century, this gold
“Warzelnia Piwa” Restaurant.
beverage, due to its exceptional taste, was
ÂÂ ÂÂ ÂÂ
one of six in the country exported abroad. This boom continued until the mid-17th century. In addition to the castle brewery, brewhouses operated in local inns and taverns. At the turn of the 20th century, Bydgoszcz had as many as 13 breweries. The biggest of them, Juliusz Strelow’s brewery in Ustronie Street, set a record in filling bottles at 1,800 an hour in 1920. After the war, his property was nationalized and turned into a facility producing the famous Kujawiak beer. Unfortunately, not much remains of the magnificent old breweries. However, Bydgoszcz has been proudly continuing its
Did you know that... Poland
is
the
biggest
producer
of goose meat in Europe, but only 10%
of
this
meat
is
consumed
domestically. T he remaining part
goes primarily to our neighbour
Brewery (8 Poznańska Street), founded in 2011, whose terraces are situated in the romantic Bydgoszcz Venice. Beer lovers can select from among four types of local beer, including Pils Wenecki, Koźlak Bydgoski,
from the west. Kołuda Goose is the
Kasztelan z Bydgoszczy, and Pszeniczne
bred not far from Bydgoszcz, in
beer of Bavarian type (Bock), made seasonally,
only native variety of this poultry, Kołuda Wielka.
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beer making traditions through the Regional
Młyńskie. Koźlak is a unique, strong and dark in winter.
Explore Bydgoszcz | Bydgoszcz Specialties
Goose meat
Legend has it that this drink, brewed by
view of the entire Mill Island or tour the inside
monks, was supposed to brighten the long
of the establishment. For beer connoisseurs,
and ascetic period of Lent. On the other hand,
it can be a fascinating journey through
the name of Kasztelan z Bydgoszczy is related
time. The Hop Room features a permanent
to the first written record about
exhibition dedicated to the
the city. Kastelanus de Budegac,
history of Bydgoszcz brewing
if we can trust the records, was
and souvenirs related to beer,
the founder of the city on the
presenting also a sizeable
River Brda. While in
collection of labels.
brewery, we also
The Bydgoszcz Venice has
recommend asking
links not only to beer making,
about
but also the production of
the
dark
honey ale, which is
alcoholic beverages.
the specialty of the
In 1827-1945, in the area
restaurant. All of the
of 2-4 Czartoryskiego Street,
mentioned varieties
was C.A. Frankeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s distillery,
of beer are not always
which delivered to the
available, since they are brewed
residents of Bydgoszcz and the
in only two vats. When drinking a
region the famous chocolate
beer, we can enjoy the beautiful
liqueurs and Advocaat (daily
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Did you know that...
production of the company amounted to
Legend has it that in the 1970s,
generated during the rectification process
a prankster working in the Kujawiak Brewery, during renovation of installations, connected
a beer pipe directly to the water
pipeline. Residents of local streets had beer coming out of their taps for half a day. Instead of
calling emergency, they filled all available dishes with beer.
10,000 litres of pure spirit). Warm water was used in the bath owned by the company. The best known liqueur production plant in Bydgoszcz was the company of Leistikow, father of the outstanding painter and graphic artist Walter Leistikow, co-founder of “Berlin Art Nouveau”. Carl Leistikow’s pharmacy, situated at the corner of Gdańska and Śniadeckich Streets, sold “Kuyavian infusion for vodka used for the stomach”.
Warzelnia Piwa (Brewery)
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Explore Bydgoszcz | | Bydgoszcz Specialties
57
MUST DO 58
Must do
Bydgoszcz Marina
59
Take a cruise by Water Tram 61 Go on a trip on a historical bus 62
Make soap yourself 63
Learn about the “explosive” history of Bydgoszcz 64
Relax in Myślęcinek 66
F ind the 18th Meridian 68
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Must do | Take a cruise by Water Tram When: Water trams operate daily in the summer season (between May and September), several times a day (timetable is available at www.zdmikp.bydgoszcz.pl
Take a cruise by water tram
in the bookmark Bydgoszcz Water Tram). Before the planned trip, we recommend checking availability on the selected date, since group reservations happen from time to time: tel. +48 52 582 27 64
When visiting Bydgoszcz, you don’t have to worry about getting bored. There are many attractions. The only thing you can worry about is if you have enough time to see all of them. “Słonecznik” with the Opera Nova in the background
Sunny cruise Bydgoszcz looks the most beautiful from the river. The revitalized Mill Island,
Where: The main stop of the water
renovation of the boulevards on the Brda
tram is located at Rybi Square. There is the
that is underway, historical hydrotechnical
current timetable and information on routes,
facilities on the Bydgoszcz Canal, can be best
which changes occasionally depending on
seen while taking a cruise by water tram.
the situation on the waterway.
These water trams, called Słonecznik I and II, are modern and environmentally friendly vessels, powered by solar energy, which can
Price:
carry 28 people on board. On weekends, the
Słonecznik Boats:
historical M/S Bydgoszcz towboat is also in
operation, experiencing its “second youth”.
MS Bydgoszcz:
5 PLN 8 PLN
for n! k c e h C ervatio res
2.50 PLN 4 PLN
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Go on a trip on a historical bus
When: during the vacation season (July-August), from the morning to the evening.
The
current
timetable
and
route map are available at www.zdmikp. bydgoszcz.pl in the bookmark Timetable For those who feel better on land than on water, Bydgoszcz offers trips by a
(timetable for special lines is available only during the season).
historical, hundred year old bus, Herbrand or Red eNka made in the 1960s. Those who like the atmosphere of Communist Poland will enjoy a ride by “Ogórek” (cucumber), which is our immortal bus Jelcz 043. Jelcz buses, called colloquially “Ogórki”, travel on two routes. No. 100 goes to Myślęcinek, which is the biggest municipal park in Poland. Route 101 runs from the Old Town to the Bydgoszcz Wschód Railway Station, where the Bydgoszcz Railways
Historical “Ogórek”
Memorial Chamber operates in the summer season. The main stop of “Ogórek” is in Mostowa Street, just near the bridge and is marked with a retro information post. Historical trams start their run in Babia Wieś and Myślęcinek. The old bimbas (trams) “Herbrand” and Red eNka travel on a special tourist line No. 10 from Babia Wieś to Las Gdański (Myślęcinek). Great fun for children is a trip by Herbrand, made in Cologne in 1898, with open balconies and the driver dressed in a stylish uniform.
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Price:
3 PLN
1.50 PLN
Did you know that... Jelcz
special
buses, rides,
which
come
from
offer
the
Transportation Museum in Paterek (a village in the area of Nakło nad Notecią). T hey were used on the sets of many Polish movies,
including “Różyczka” and “Little Moscow”.
ekends! Only on we
Must do | Make soap yourself Production of the famous Persil and Cypisek laundry soap originated in Bydgoszcz. A visit to the Museum starts from washing your hands in a tub. Then visitors move to the workshop, where soap makers teach
Make soap yourself
them step by step how to make fragrant soap. After the workshops, participants visit all parts of this surprising museum. When: The Museum is open all week, between 10:00 am and 6:00 pm. Before your planned visit, we recommend taking a look on the Museum website at www. muzeummydla.pl and check reservation for the selected date. Shows are organized
The world’s only Museum of Soap and Hi-
every 90 minutes.
story of Dirt operates in Bydgoszcz. It offers Where: 13 Długa Street,
interactive time travel through the history of cleanliness, dirt and soap making, which has
www.muzeummydla.pl
Sched visit aule your head!
deep-rooted ties with Bydgoszcz. In the city on the River Brda, the first Soap and Candle Production Plant was founded as early as the
Price:
12 PLN
36 PLN (up to 5 people)
18th century in today’s Warmińskiego Street.
Bydgoszcz soap bars
Did you know that... T he
oldest
Bydgoszcz the
14th
records
Baths
century
date
and
about from
regard
a wooden bath, located on Mill
Island. It was run by Tomasz Balneor (bath attendant), called “Plugawy” have
(F ilthy),
been
(pulling
related
teeth,
which to
shaving
could
his
job
heads,
drawing blood, and cleaning the bath).
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a museum â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Exploseum, while the second one, as a permanent ruin, shows the mark left by time on the buildings and preserves their original look.
Learn about the explosive history of Bydgoszcz
A visit to the Exploseum provides extensive
knowledge
on
military
technology. A tour through its myriad, murky and concrete corridors will certainly be remembered for a long time. When:
Exploseum
is
open
from
Tuesday to Sunday, between 9:00 am and 5:00 pm. Due to the unique nature of this place, children under the age of six are not admitted. Visiting is organized as guided
The secret of the mysterious ruins lay
tours and takes about two hours. Therefore,
hidden in the Bydgoszcz Forest for fifty years.
visits should be scheduled by phone. We
Only the older residents, remembering
recommend wearing comfortable shoes.
the times of the Second World War, knew
The facility welcomes disabled visitors.
that several kilometres from the operating chemical plant and newly developed
Where: The Museum is situated on the
industrial park, there was a place known
outskirts of the city, in Bydgoszcz Industrial
for inhuman forced labour involving over
Park. It can be easily accessed by car. Passing
40,000 workers of the former DAG Fabrik
through the gate, you will see signs which
Bromberg.
will guide you to the destination. Tourist can
In 2008, the decision was made to
also use public transport. Bus no. 68 runs
transform part of the area into a museum.
twice a day to the Exploseum (before guided
Out of several hundred buildings that in
tours at 9:30 am and 12:30 pm).
1939-1945 were part of a huge concern providing the Third Reich with nitroglycerin,
NOTE! Before arriving at the Exploseum,
trinitrotoluene and smokeless powder, a
please schedule the time of the visit by
dozen or so were separated and connected
phone (tel. +48 883 366 056).
by tunnels. They are created by two twin Price:
lines NGL â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Betrieb, i.e. nitroglycerin production. One of them was designated as
64
15 PLN
12 PLN
8 PLN
Must do | Learn about the explosive history of Bydgoszcz
Did you know that... People working at the nitroglycerin production in DAG Fabrik Bromberg had contact with highly toxic substances. As a result their hair and nails turned orange or rust red. To this day, the older residents of the city recall that they were called â&#x20AC;&#x153;canariesâ&#x20AC;?.
Concrete tunnel at Exploseum
s by car your visit! Acces le du he sc se ea Pl or bus 68 E
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bears, wolves and badgers, there are animals from all over the world, including llama, lemur, and monkey. Water sports enthusiasts can take advantage of a lift in the Wakepark. Myślęcinek is also a perfect place to organize
Relax in Myślęcinek
a picnic on the beach on one of the local ponds, which offer barbecue sites. One of the winter attractions is a ski slope with a lift. When: The Forest Park of Culture and Recreation is open all year round; however, some of its attractions are available depending on the season.
While in Bydgoszcz, it’s worth taking
Where: Myślęcinek is located a few
a breath and relaxing, taking advantage of
kilometres away from the city centre. The
the attractions and space of the Myślęcinek
park can be accessed by car (parking near the
Forest Park of Culture and Recreation. It is the
tram terminus or at the Polish Fauna Garden).
biggest municipal park in Poland, occupying
Visitors without cars can use public transport,
830 hectares. It is situated only 5 km from
taking bus no. 52, which runs every hour from
the city centre.
the city centre (Jagiellonów Roundabout)
The park offers a host of attractions for visitors of all ages. During the
to the stop at the Polish Fauna Garden or take tram no. 1 or 2
summer season, we recommend
toward Las Gdański (the last
a visit to the funfair, the Lost
stop of the tram).
World (Dinosaur Park) Macroworld
Price: the list of current
(park with huge
admission fees to the Park attractions
and
insects). Great fun for youngsters is a rope park with a zip-line and skatepark. Adults will surely enjoy the beautiful Botanical Garden located in the Alpinarium. There is also the Zoological Garden. In addition to
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are on the website: www.myslecinek.pl.
Must do | Relax in Myślęcinek
Park P ro
menad
e
17
8
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Did you know that... Before
the
Second
World
12 13
W ar,
the Myślęcinek estate was the property
respected
of
the
affluent
Weynerowski
and
family,
famous makers of “Leo” footwear (p.
108).
Bydgoszcz
residents
enjoyed coming here after work on Friday, for a walk, to have a beer at the little brewery “Myslecinek
Brauerai” or to “lounge” on the grass.
14 15 16 17
Botanical Garden Equestrian Recreation Centre Zoological Garden Lost World Playground Macroworld Earth Museum Rope Park Traffic Town Ski slope Ecological Education Centre Sports equipment rental Bydgoszcz Fair and Exhibition Centre Wakepark Beach Skatepark Golf course
d 2 o. 1 an n m a r 2 t no. 5 or bus d Podkowa) r (towa
67
(37 Długa Street), where a plaque with its designation was mounted on the initiative of the 18th Meridian Association. We can
F ind the 18th Meridian
find more traces of the Meridian in the Old Market Square, in the proximity of the Fight and Martyrdom Monument; then it runs to Marszałka Focha, E. Warmińskiego, Sienkiewicza, and Wileńska Streets, and further to the Bocianowo district. The best idea to search for it is with the use of GPS. We also recommend visiting the places commemorating the run of the mysterious “Eighteenth” Meridian, including the Globe
What
connects
Bydgoszcz
with
at the plinth near the White Granary on Mill
Dubrovnik, Stockholm or Cape Town? The
Island (it was believed that the meridian runs
18th meridian east runs through these
also through Mill Island) and an obelisk with
cities. Its exceptionality consists in the
a ball and image of a ship on Municipal Lock
fact that it helped cartographers draw flat
No. 2.
maps. The easiest way to find the 18th Meridian is to go to the Ratuszowy Hotel
Tip: When searching for the 18th Meridian,
it’s
worth
trying to play the popular geocaching and find the hidden
“treasure”.
information
More
regarding
this topic can be found at w w w. g e o c a c h i n g. co m (Search of 18th meridian).
Obelisk symbolizing the 18th Meridian
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Must do | Find the 18th Meridian
69
MUST SEE 70
Must see
Water Tower
71
Bydgoszcz seen from the Water Tower 73 Mill Island 76 Bydgoszcz Canal 77
Bydgoszcz Cathedral 79 T he “Archer Lady” statue 80 Master Twardowski 82 Man Crossing the River Sculpture 83
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“Deluge” Fountain 84
Must see | Bydgoszcz seen from the Water Tower into one of the buildings of the Museum of Waterworks (the second part of the Museum is located in the Historical Pump Room
Bydgoszcz seen from the Water Tower
at 242 Gdańska Street). Inside, we find an exhibition recounting the history of the local waterworks and sewers. There is a collection of documents, photographs, old bathroom and toilet accessories, and even pieces of wooden pipes coming from the first local waterworks dating from the 16th century, excavated during archaeological works. After touring the industrial exhibition, we
In 1900, on the hill known today as
can take a narrow, winding staircase to
Gen. Henryk Dąbrowski Hill, which is the
access the lookout terrace, which offers a
highest site in relation to the water intake
breathtaking, panoramic view of Bydgoszcz.
in Las Gdański (Gdańsk Forest) the water
There are several telescopes mounted on
tower (designed by Franz Marschal) was
the railing, offering a more detailed view of
opened. It played an important role in the
the city.
modern waterworks system of Bydgoszcz.
The Henryk Dąbrowski Park stretches
This slightly squat, cylindrical tower houses
at the foot of the tower. All distinct tall
a compensation reservoir, which for 90
buildings of the Bydgoszcz cityscape can be
years guaranteed proper water pressure in
seen above the tree tops.
the mains, making sure that in the hours of increased consumption of water, it would be available to consumers without any problems. The tower received a neoGothic brick façade, highlighted with plaster details. The architect of this industrial facility (45 metres high) added a public lookout terrace to it, which was a great attraction. It offered a view of the whole city. Unfortunately, the terrace was closed after 1945. It was only reopened in 2012, after completion of renovation and adaptation works related to turning the Water Tower
Water Tower interior
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Opera Nova Church of the Holy Trinity
Church of Saints Peter and Paul
Rotherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mills
74
Building of the former Eastern Railways Authority
Bydgoszcz Cathedral
Must see | Bydgoszcz seen from the Water Tower
Pylons of the University Route
“Łuczniczka” Sports & Entertainment Hall
Basilica of St. Vincent de Paul
Church of St. Andrew Bobola
Main Post Office
District Court
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the Brda Młynówka river, running fast and nervously, along with the wall of Bydgoszcz Venice. Across from it is the vast main riverbed of the Upper Brda, featuring such landmarks as the stately Cathedral and Opera Nova. Thanks to revitalization, this place has become
Mill Island
the favourite hangout of the local residents. Here, we can also find the historical buildings of the Museum with modern upgrades, water tram stop, yacht marina, playground, amphitheatre, numerous hiking and biking paths, and even a beach next to the spacious lawn on which Bydgoszcz residents enjoy lounging on their blankets.
Mill Island is the green heart of
Old granaries and mills house exhibitions
Bydgoszcz, an enclave in the city centre.
of the Leon Wyczółkowski District Museum.
People coming here can relax in the park,
The old granary at 1 Mennica Street, dating
among alleys lined with old trees, vast
from the mid-19th century, once used for
lawns, and alleys with benches, listening
storing bagged grains, has been turned into
to the rapidly falling water at the weir and
a stylish restaurant. The building at 6 Mennica
culvert. Water surrounds everything. From
Street, after careful renovation, has been
the direction of the Old Town, we can find
transformed into the Centre of Employment and Entrepreneurship.
Did you know that... T he present appearance of Mill Island has survived in much the
shape of two centuries ago, and some parts date even from earlier times. T he revitalization project of
this
area
was
recognized
nationwide. It was awarded many commendations both domestically and abroad. Mill Island
76
Must see | Bydgoszcz Canal among others the majority of timber from Russia and the Congress Kingdom of Poland were floated along the canal to the German Empire. The canal facilitated development
Bydgoszcz Canal
of trade and industry, especially timber, machine-building and furniture industries. At the turn of the 20th century, the canal was operated by almost 3,000 rafters working for the largest carrier - Lloyd of Bydgoszcz. Beginning in the 1840’s, the canal within the city limits and suburban areas had an influence on a flourishing social life, connected
This is a monumental, hydrotechnical
with restaurant and entertainment complexes
project begun in the days of the Kingdom of Poland, prepared in detail and implemented right after the first partition of Poland, in the years 1773-1774, during the reign of Frederick II, the ruler of Prussia. The
26.77-km-long
Bydgoszcz constructed
Canal within
was 18
months by nearly 10,000 workers, at a cost of nearly 2,000 lives. It connected the cities of Bydgoszcz and Nakło nad Notecią, but most
Kayakers going through the Municipal Lock
importantly the basins of the Vistula and Odra rivers, i.e. their tributaries. It
established in its neighborhood.
was in such a way that the inland waterway,
In the immediate vicinity of the Old
planned since the 16th century and very
Town, opposite the Opera Nova building,
important economically, was constructed.
we begin a walk around the Park on the
It became competitive with the sea route
Old Canal. Here, on the northern side of the
via Gdańsk. and since its opening, the canal
Solidarności [Solidarity] Bridges, in Karola
was systematically modernized and repaired.
Marcinkowskiego Street, we see the Municipal
It played a tangible role in water transport,
Lock (the current one from the years 1908-
77
1912) and building no. 2 the home of the Royal
oaks, elms, beeches, and hydrophilous black
Inspection of the Water Works. Continuing to
alders - extends along the canal. Here, the
the west, we cross Marszałka Focha Street and
oldest necropolis of Bydgoszcz – Starofarny
via Grunwaldzkie Roundabout, constructed
Cemetery established in 1806 – neighbors the
at the cost of a filled in canal bed, all the
area on the canal. Next, in the area of lock no.
way to Nakielska Street. In the area of the
4, the canal is crossed by Wrocławska Street,
classicist building at 25 Marszałka Focha
where grand buildings once home to elegant
Street (a residence of the Regency presidents
restaurants with ballrooms and concert halls
in Bydgoszcz during the years 1836-1920),
have been preserved. Near this lock, the most
there was lock no. 2, and continuing further,
beautiful part of the canal promenade begins,
opposite the present-day Group of Schools of
with a pair of floating fountains and a swan
Mechanical Engineering at 37 Świętej Trójcy
island, followed by lock no. 5 and another lock
Street, a stone bridge connecting the banks
in Bronikowskiego Street. After this lock the
of the canal. Black poplars growing by the
navigable canal starts, which takes us to the
exit to the cinema echo the past of the filled
River Noteć (E-70 waterway), or through the
up canal. A bit further, the Old Bydgoszcz
Czyżkówko Lock along the Brda River towards
Canal, closed for navigation, begins. The
the Koronowo Reservoir, or in the opposite
Planty Park with beautiful specimens of
direction towards the River Vistula.
old trees – black poplars, horse chestnuts,
Did you know that... Until the year 1970, the Bydgoszcz Canal once flowed on the site of the present-day Grunwaldzkie Roundabout. T he Ladislaus IV stone bridge, crossing the canal here, connected Świętej Trójcy and Grunwaldzka Streets. Near the bridge, there was once lock no. 3, now non-existent.
Park on the Old Bydgoszcz Canal
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Must see | Bydgoszcz Cathedral trade and many crafts, they were best suited for the commercial aspirations of the city. This Gothic hall church built from brick features a nave and two side aisles. It has the chancel closed from three sides and a square
Bydgoszcz Cathedral
tower to the south. A two-storey arcaded porch adjoins the church from the west. The main entrance to the church features Renaissance oak doors, adorned with coats of arms and initials of guilds and Bydgoszcz
In 2004, the Bydgoszcz Fara Church was raised to the rank of Cathedral of the Diocese of Bydgoszcz by the decree of Holy Father John Paul II. However, for many centuries and for dozens of generations of Bydgoszcz residents, it had been the only and most prominent municipal church. Before it was built, there had been two places of worship, namely the Church of St. Giles and the castle chapel. When they were erected, Bydgoszcz was not a city. In 1346, just after the city was founded, work started on the construction of a municipal church in the proximity of the Market Square and City Hall, in line with medieval traditions. Initially, the Bydgoszcz Fara Church was a wooden structure. After it was consumed by fire, the decision was made to build a stately, Gothic brick church. Construction continued between 1466 and 1502. Saints Nicholas and Martin were chosen as its patrons. As patron saints of
Bydgoszcz Cathedral
79
townsmen. Its interior charms with the unique abundance of colours, something which is rarely seen in the region of northern Poland. Polychromes date from 19221925 and were made by Henryk NostitzJackowski. However, the most important masterpiece in the Cathedral, which is also an object of worship, is the Madonna with the Rose. The painting from the high altar is the centrepiece of the church, attracting the attention of the faithful and tourists. It is a late-Gothic painting of the Madonna and
Did you know that... In the downspout, there is a little
crowned eagle embossed in sheet metal. As the only in Bydgoszcz, it
had survived the occupation period unnoticed by the Germans, when
all symbols related to the Polish
State were destroyed. It attracted Bydgoszcz residents, particularly young people, who came here in secret to pay tribute to the coat of arms of Poland.
Child, holding a little rose in the other hand.
of the symbols of Bydgoszcz, stands in a quiet place across from the Polish Theatre, in Jan Kochanowski Park. The statue of a beautiful female athlete (175 cm tall), in classical proportions, was one of the last works of Berlin artist Ferdinand Lepcke (1866-1909), made most likely in
T he “Archer Lady” statue
1908. The statue, shown at exhibitions in Berlin and Munich, received positive reviews. Bydgoszcz residents admired the statue. In spring 1910, a miniature version was shown at an exhibition in Bydgoszcz. People enjoyed it so much that they came up with the idea of purchasing a replica of the statue for the city. Finally, Louis Aronsohn, a wealthy banker of Jewish origin, decided to buy the
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It used to stand in Teatralny Square, near
original statue. The “Archer Lady” arrived in
the non-existent Municipal Theatre, angering
Bydgoszcz on August 18, 1910, on the 60th
some prudish residents of Bydgoszcz. These
birthday of its buyer. It was solemnly unveiled
days, the “Archer Lady” statue, known as one
in order to charm with its artistic form and
Must see | The “Archer Lady” statue
“The Archer Lady”
beauty successive generations of Bydgoszcz residents and tourists. Legend has it that the founder’s friend posed for the statue, but according to some, it was his daughter. When it was erected in the city centre, a battle ensued to move the “indecent” statue to a less prominent place (one of the proponents was the famous actress Pola Negri). However, all attempts to remove the “Archer Lady” from Teatralny Square failed, until it was decided that its proximity to the
Did you know that... In Bydgoszcz, there is the original
statue of the “Archer Lady”, but it is not the only statue of this type; replicas of this outstanding F. Lepcke artwork can be found in Berlin,
Coburg,
Heringsdorf,
and
Wilhelmshaven. Another titbit from
its history; in the 1930s, Mayor of Poznań, Cyryl Ratajski, wanted to buy the Bydgoszcz statue for his city.
future monument of the Gratitude to the Red Army Heroes was inappropriate. The
In 2013, on the 667th anniversary of
latter monument had not been erected on
the city, another monument depicting the Ar-
the planned site in Teatralny Square, but the
cher Lady was erected near the Opera Nova,
“Archer Lady” was moved in 1960. This time it
becoming a symbol of the development and
protected the new theatre, just as it had the
changes taking place in Bydgoszcz. It is a con-
old one in the past, always ready to shoot an
temporary take on the symbol of Bydgoszcz,
arrow.
which is the solemn “Archer Lady” from the Jan Kochanowski Park.
81
his arrival to the city, Master Twardowski headed to the “Zgorzelec” Inn, where along with his servant Maciek and devils – Smołka and Węgliszek – they stayed and met with customers. When news spread across the
Master Twardowski
town that the Master knew magic, there was always some nobleman or townsman asking him for advice or help. One of them was the Mayor, an older gentleman who had a very young wife. He had a hard time keeping up with her. Thus he asked Master Twardowski to rejuvenate him. The Master, assisted by
Every day, at 1:13 pm and 9:13 pm,
devils, prepared an extract from magical
a window opens in the tenement house
herbs, in which he bathed the old man. After
in the Old Market Square no. 15, where
several hours sitting in the pot, he emerged
Master Twardowski appears in a smoke
out of it a much younger man. Unfortunately,
haze, whooping with laughter. According to
after coming home, neither his wife nor any
legend, Twardowski arrived to the city on a
of his servants recognized him.
rooster (other stories claim that he arrived to the Old Market Square in a chair). After
Did you know that... In 1910, on the site that was once occupied by the tenement
house in which Master Twardowski stayed, its then owner Leo Brückmann built a modern department store with an
area of about 4,000 square metres. Customers were impressed with the bright, spacious interiors and high quality products offered at low prices. After the F irst
World War, there was the Garment House operating as
a branch of the Joint Stock Company of Poznań. Starting
from 1928, it operated as the Department Store of the Matecki Brothers, which was a favourite shop of the local female clientele, and not only, since it was known for its fine clothing and great sales. Unfortunately,
the building of Rudolf Kern suffered war damage in 1945. The site is now occupied by a contemporary, stylized tenement house.
82
Master Twardowski
pm and 9:13 m p 1:13
Must see | Man Crossing the River Sculpture
logo of Bydgoszcz), were built in 1793-1800 by merchant Samuel Gotlieb Engelmann. Initially, the complex in Grodzka Street
Man Crossing the River Sculpture
consisted of five granaries built as a row of houses, which were used as warehouses. In 1960, two of them were completely burned down. They were such an important part of the cityscape of that time that some local residents would welcome their rebuilding. In 1962, the preserved granaries were transformed into exhibition buildings of the Leon Wyczółkowski District Museum of Bydgoszcz. In 2006, works were completed
The “Man Crossing the River” sculpture
on
the
thorough
remodelling
and
came to Bydgoszcz on May 1, 2004, in order
modernization of the interiors. The favourite
to commemorate Poland’s accession to the
granary of Bydgoszcz residents, which is also
European Union. This unique sculpture was
one of the most popular local landmarks,
made by Jerzy Kędziora. The mystery of the
is the granary closest to Mostowa Street,
“Man Crossing the River” consists in shifting
sometimes called the “Dutch” granary due
of its centre of gravity below the rope
to its de l’Orme roof. In front of this granary,
level. Thanks to this solution, the sculpture
a small amphitheatre was established and a
maintains its balance. A swallow (which
miniature, bronze model of Bydgoszcz from
is Schwalbe in German) was also placed
early centuries is currently displayed.
on the rope in order to commemorate the outstanding citizen of Bydgoszcz, founder of the Pomeranian Philharmonic, Andrzej Szwalbe. Bydgoszcz granaries on the River Brda are almost like the coat of arms of the city. Only several historical granaries have remained in Bydgoszcz, with only four dating from before the 19th century, standing on the riverside in the city centre. All of them are half-timbered buildings serving today as museums. Three granaries at 9-11 Grodzka Street (the image of which is commemorated on the contemporary
Man Crossing the River Sculpture
83
unique effect of the monument is created by the surface surrounding the fountain, made as a multicolour, ornamental mosaic with a
“Deluge” Fountain
motif of waves. This greatest work made by the artist had impressed spectators until 1943 as one of the biggest attractions of Bydgoszcz, and a popular site for taking photographs. Unfortunately, valuable sculptures were confiscated
for
war
purposes.
These
One of the must-have photographs
days, thanks to the Social Committee for
of one’s stay in Bydgoszcz is a photo at
Rebuilding the Fountain established in
the “Deluge” Fountain, which stands in
2004, the bronze, multi-figural statue has
Kazimierz Wielki Park, in the proximity of
been faithfully restored. The rebuilt scene
Wolności Square. This impressive fountain,
of the Biblical Deluge, placed in a renovated
made by Ferdinand Lepcke, was erected
basin and surrounded by the restored
on this site in 1904, in the then garden of
mosaic, has once again become one of the
the Bydgoszcz District Government. The
most impressive and beautiful fountains in
artist placed a composition referring to the
Poland. The restored fountain looks most
Biblical Deluge in a huge pool made from red sandstone. In the middle is a group
beautiful
of people rising to a height of 6 metres,
illumination
after
featuring a muscular man holding a languid
composition.
dusk,
highlights
when
colourful
the
sculpted
woman, and a second woman lying dead at his feet with a child clinging to her. There are additional statues on the sides; one of them depicts a man fighting for his life with a snake wrapped around him, while another features a mother bear with a dead cub. The
Did you know that... In 1897, before embarking on the idea a
of
erecting
national
the
fountain,
competition
was
announced in Germany, which was widely commented on by art and
architecture magazines published at that time. As many as 55 designs
were submitted. Replicas of the
fountain were installed in Coburg (1906) and Eisleben (melted down “Deluge” Fountain
84
for war purposes in 1942).
Must see | “Deluge” Fountain
85
86
Sightseeing routes Old Town
POZNAJ SIGHT SEEING
BY DGOSZCZ ROUT ES
87
See the Old Town 89 Around the City Centre 97 Alternative image of the city 109 Industrial history of Bydgoszcz 115
Trail of hydrotechnical historical sites 122 By bicycle through Bydgoszcz 128
Green Bydgoszcz 136
88
Sightseeing routes | See the Old Town The city’s central square, where we are, was marked out in the year 1346, when the city was founded by King Casimir the Great, and its present-day buildings date back
See the Old Town
mainly to the 20th century. From in front of the monument we go along Farna Street towards the oldest church in Bydgoszcz, the Cathedral of Saints Martin and Nicholas (3). En route we pass the oldest pharmacy in Bydgoszcz – ”Under the Golden Eagle” at
Time: about 2 hours We start sightseeing of the Old Town in the Old Market Square in front of the Bydgoszcz Land Fight and Martyrdom Monument (1), placed here in 1969 (designed by Franciszek Masiak). The monument commemorates the casualties of the Nazi terror, especially the residents of Bydgoszcz who were executed in this place by firing squad on the first days of the Second World War.
Did you know that...
City Hall
1 Stary Rynek Street (Old Market Square) – and a grand edifice of the old Jesuit college from the 17th century, presently the City Hall
At the beginning of the Second
(2). We enter the cathedral through 500-kg
of St Ignatius of Loyola still stood
church basement (p. 79).
World War, the old Jesuit Church in the Old Market Square. Legend has it that one of the victims of
the Nazi terror, while dying, leaned
bronze doors on the ground floor of the Going around the cathedral, it is worthwhile paying attention to the Farny
against one of the church walls.
Weir (4), i.e. the place where the River
and it could not be removed, that’s
into the River Brda. The present-day building
T he trace of the hand remained why the German occupants decided to demolish the church.
Młynówka, flowing around Mill Island, falls of the Small Hydroelectric Power Plant, standing by the weir, is an old groat mill. In
89
be able to see the city’s official symbol, i.e.
Did you know that... T he
sculpture
Nepomucene,
of
located
St
by
three half-timbered granaries (6) from the
John the
the River Brda. In the past, these were among
the
they belong to the Leon Wyczółkowski District
cathedral, is the oldest sculpture in
Bydgoszcz,
and
one
of
turn of the 19th century, scenically located on
oldest freestanding sculptures of the saint.
many grain storehouses in the city; nowadays Museum. In front of the main entrance to the building is a model of
the vicinity, between yews, a
old Bydgoszcz. Looking at
bright observer will notice
it, we can see several now
the freestanding sculpture
non-existent
of St John Nepomucene (5)
including the City Hall and
from the 18th century, a saint
Jesuit Church in the Old
who was to protect against
Market Square, the little
flood.
Romanesque Church of St
buildings,
Giles, city gateways, and Going along the river,
Bydgoszcz castle, which
we reach Mostowa Street.
was destroyed during the
After a few moments, we will
Lloyd Palace
Swedish Deluge. Now we go towards the Jerzy Sulima-
Did you know that... A replica of Bydgoszcz castle is located by the main entrance of the
BREBank in Grodzka Street. It was near this place that the stately Bydgoszcz castle surrounded with a moat was located. Legend has
it that centuries ago a cruel castellan lived here with his gorgeous daughter, Angelica. T he father was so afraid of the girl’s soon-to-happen marriage that he had her kept in the castle tower day and night. One day,
Angelica fell in love with one of her father’s prisoners – prince Jarosław, whom she set free, ignoring the father’s anger.
Two days later, Jarosław returned for his love. A cruel fight ensued,
during which the young man was killed by a knight wearing a black
visor. Eager to avenge his death, Angelica dealt a blow on the back of the
mysterious soldier. When the black knight dropped dead, the girl removed his visor; it turned out that it was her father. In despair because of
her deed, she plunged into the River Brda. Since that moment, she would return to the castle as a ghost each night to look for her love and her father in the rooms.
90
Sightseeing routes | See the Old Town
OLD MARKET SQUARE
Kamiński Bridge, where we stop for a while to
Going down the bridge stairs to the
look at the eagerly photographed panorama
boulevard, it is worthwhile looking at the
of Bydgoszcz. The sculpture floating above
richness of neo-baroque forms on the
the River Brda is the “Man Crossing the
corner tenement house at 1-3 Stary
River” (7), a tightrope walker smoothly
Port Street (9) – the work of the famous
balancing on the rope, who commemorates
builder of Bydgoszcz, Józef Święcicki. On
the day Poland joined the European Union in
the boulevard we turn right and go along
2004 (designed by Jerzy Kędziora). The “little
the River Brda towards the monumental
palace” (8) in the Dutch mannerist style on
edifice of the Opera Nova (11). On the left-
the right bank of the River Brda, built in 1885-
hand side we pass St Barbara’s Island (10),
1886 (designed by Waldemar Jenisch), was
from behind which the slender structure
the old head office of, among others, Lloyd
of the cathedral emerges. Next, we enter
of Bydgoszcz, one of the biggest shipping
the footbridge connecting the boulevard
companies in the Second Republic of Poland.
and Mill Island. We can take a look at the
91
modernist opera building, scenically located
European Money Centre (14), erected on
in a bend of the River Brda. The building
the site of the buildings of the Bydgoszcz Mint
was designed in 1961 (by Józef Chmiel and
(operating 1594-1688), and the old steam mill
Andrzej Prusiewicz), and it took over thirty
from 1861, the so-called, Red Granary (15),
years to construct (1973-2006). This is not a
now the Modern Art Gallery.
music stage, but also an important conference centre. On the other side of the river, in the
The central part of the Bydgoszcz island
western part of Mill Island, one can see well
is occupied by a complex of mills dating
the modern building of Bydgoszcz Marina
back from 1848-1849, i.e. the huge Rother’s
(12), designed by the office APA Rokiccy,
Mills (16). The scenic yellow building,
excellently blending with its surroundings.
located opposite them, is nowadays the
The marina, completed in 2012, has won not
House of Leon Wyczółkowski (17), where
only the hearts of Bydgoszcz residents but
one can admire paintings, graphics, and
also many prestigious awards owing to its
the studio of the patron of the museum in
unique architecture. Across the footbridge
Bydgoszcz. Now, we go to the other side of
we enter Mill Island ( p. 76), a 6-hectare
the street called Mennica (Mint), towards
green oasis in the very centre of the city. We
the tenement houses on the swift current of
go past the oldest building on the island, the
the River Młynówka. These buildings, once
so-called White Granary (13) dating back to
showing up almost straight from the water,
the late 18th century, which is now occupied
are called the Bydgoszcz Venice (18). In
by archaeological collections of the District
the past, rich burghers used to build their
Museum. Walking along Międzywodzie, an
workshops and plants here, e.g. dye-houses,
artificial canal crossing the island, on the
distilleries, sawmill, and a bathhouse operated
left-hand side we go past the building of the
here. First across the footbridge over the River Młynówka, and then along the corridor
Did you know that...
between tenement houses we reach Długa
100 ducats of Sigismund III Vasa minted in Bydgoszcz in 1621 is one
of the most beautiful and precious coins in the history of Europe. In
2008, at an auction in New York, a ducat of Sigismund III was sold for
an
astronomical
1,380,000
dollars,
amount
which
to
of
this
day makes it the most expensive Polish coin in history.
92
Street (the former Platea Longa), the most important track of medieval Bydgoszcz, which now is 640 metres long. We turn right and after several steps we reach Wełniany Square. Here we see the monument to Leon Barciszewski (19), (designed by Sławoj Ostrowski), the last pre-war mayor of the city, who along with his 18-year-old son was murdered in an unknown place by the Nazis in November
Sightseeing routes | See the Old Town
Did you know that... In Wełniany Square once was the Poznań Gateway, where the city executioner lived. T he city executioner was friends with a certain poor tailor named Janek. One day, the young man walking with his beloved met a rich merchant, who fell in love with Janek’s sweetheart and promised to shower her and her family with riches if she married him. Tailor Janek was so irritated with this daring proposal of the stranger that he went after him with fists. After this incident, Janek was captured and sentenced to death. T he executioner, who felt sorry for his young friend, decided to help him. T hey agreed that before going to the market square the executioner would loosen his irons so that Janek could run away in the direction of the Poznań Gateway, which was not guarded on this day. Everything went as planned. T he tailor’s love waited for him by the gateway, and together they disappeared in the mist. People were shouting “Catch him, catch him”, and the place where the two lovers disappeared without a trace is nowadays the little lane named Chwytowo (from the Polish verb ”chwytać” = English “catch”).
1939. Let’s look now at the tenement house
as legend has it, King John III Sobieski stayed
at 4 Wełniany Square – watchful onlookers will
in 1676 during his journey by the River Vistula
see a cannonball between the windows of the
to Gdańsk. From the side of its backyard, the
second floor; most probably this is a reminder
tenement house has extremely interesting
of the Kościuszko Insurrection in 1794.
two-storey cellars. In the area of Batorego Street, we turn right, going towards the
We go back to Długa Street. Walking
monument to Casimir the Great (22). One
amidst stylish tenement houses, mainly from the late 18th and early 19th centuries, one can feel the atmosphere of old Bydgoszcz, though the merchant’s major road had lost its position as the city’s trade centre. It is worthwhile visiting the exceptional Museum of Soap and History of Dirt (20) (p. 63) at number 13-17, and stopping by the 18th-century tenement house (21) at number 22, the birthplace of painter Maksymilian Piotrowski (1813-1875), professor of the Academy of Fine Arts in Królewiec (Konigsberg). In the same building,
Love Bridge on the River Brda
93
of the most eminent monarchs in the history of Poland looks at us with authority, holding in his left hand a scroll –
the
foundation
charter of Bydgoszcz. Th e
mo n u me nt
was placed here in 2006 (designed by Mariusz Białecki). The monumental edifice of the District Court (23) built in 1906 soars behind our backs. On the
Building of the District Court
reach the intersection with Jana Kazimierza
right-hand side of the monument, between
Street, where we see an old orange tram (27)
the tenement houses, is a bewitching half-
from 1955, now a seasonal tourist information
timbered granary from the 19th century,
centre. It is hard to believe now that in the
which is occupied by the Orthodox Church
past trams used to run along Długa Street:
of St Nicholas (24). It is worthwhile going in this direction to see the remains of walls surrounding the city from the south in the past. There is also the only partially preserved tower (25) of the old fortifications. We return again to Długa Street, turn left and go towards the intersection with Jana Kazimierza Street. In the area of the seat of the authorities of Bydgoszcz, now the Ratuszowy Hotel (26), located on the left-hand side,
Autograph of Lech Wałęsa in Długa Street
it is worthwhile looking down. Under our
“red” and “green” line trams. On the southern
feet we see the Bydgoszcz Autographs, i.e.
end of Jana Kazimierza Street, there is a
signatures of people, who have made a special
boulder commemorating the Bydgoszcz
contribution to the city. Such famous people as
Jews (28). The boulder is located right on the
Zbigniew Boniek, Irena Santor and Jan Kulczyk
site of a monumental synagogue from 1882
have their plaques here.
(designed by Albert Muttray), dismantled by
Looking at the next autographs, we
94
the Nazis in 1939.
Sightseeing routes | See the Old Town Now we go along Jana Kazimierza
family, on the centennial of their pharmacy.
Street towards the Old Market Square.
Down Magdzińskiego Street we go towards
The western side of the Market Square is
the historical covered market (31) opened
occupied by the classicist edifice of the Dr
in 1906 (to a design by the Berlin company
Witold Bełza Provincial and Municipal
of architects Boswau & Knauer). Above the
Public Library (29), erected in the 18th
entrance to the covered market, there is the
century for the Prussian administration.
city’s impressive coat of arms, while inside the
Collections of the library that used to belong
steel structure is an interesting roof. Meat, fish,
to the Bydgoszcz Bernardine monastery are
crayfish and seafood used to be sold here.
kept in the building. This is the city’s oldest
The viewing axis from the Old Market Square
preserved book collection, whose origins
via Magdzińskiego Street is closed by the
date back to the late 15th century. In front
neo-Gothic Church of St Andrew Bobola
of the main entrance to the library, is the
(32) with a slender clock tower, dominating
bewitching sculpture-fountain ”Children
Kościeleckich Square. The church, designed
playing with a goose” (30) – a work by Karl P. Kowalczewski, which has adorned the Old Market Square since 1909. Originally, the fountain was located in front of the Pharmacy under the “Golden Eagle”, because it was funded by its owners, the Kupffender
Covered Market
by Berlin architect Heinrich Seeling, was erected for the Bydgoszcz Protestants in 1903. Quite surprising is the fact that these days the Jesuit church still remains the highest (75 m) building in Bydgoszcz. From in front of the covered market we go down Podwale Street (on the site of an old
95
moat) towards Rybi Square. We turn into Kręta
Entering the main Market Square of the
Street, running slightly uphill, which leads us
city, it is worthwhile looking at the corner
again to the Old Market Square. At 3 Kręta
tenement house at 15 Stary Rynek Street
Street, there is an interesting brick building, in
(34). In one of its attic windows, Master
the past a part of Herman Franke’s industrial
Twardowski appears exactly at 1:13 pm
complex, nowadays the famous music club
and 9:13 pm (p. 82) At the corner of the
“Eljazz” (33). The entrance steps are covered
Old Market Square and Batorego Street is
with notes – the score of the jazz standard
the artistic Węgliszek Cafe, with a window
Seven steps to heaven by Miles Davis (for the
decorated with an image of the devil of the
needs of the steps to the club changed into
same name, which had shady dealings with
Three steps to heaven).
Master Twardowski.
Bird’s eye view of the Old Town
96
Sightseeing routes | Around the City Centre within these few decades. Neo-classicist buildings fashionable at that time and later date back to the third quarter of the 19th century. Their facades are characterised
Around the City Centre
by balance and equilibrium, simplicity of composition, and economical usage of architectural detail. In the late 19th century, magnificent tenement houses were preserved in main streets and more modest tenement houses far away from the city centre. Company owners, craftsmen, merchants and clerks developed the suburbs with houses and industrial facilities, and the increasing number
Time: about 3 hours
of residents was conducive to development of the infrastructure of public buildings,
Throughout the 19th century Bydgoszcz
especially educational and ecclesiastic
experienced an economic growth, which
buildings. At that time, all possible styles of
resulted in a transformation of its architectural
historicism were dominant in architecture.
landscape. The year 1851 turned out to be a
This trend made use of forms adopted from
crucial year, when the first railway and the
Gothic, Renaissance, mannerism, baroque and
local railway station were opened. The cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
rococo in a creative way. In the city landscape,
area and population expanded. The flourish of
we will also see examples of the picturesque
industry and trade, and Bydgoszcz burghers
trend from the late 19th century, represented
getting rich were conducive to intensifying
by tenement houses with characteristic,
construction. The pride of contemporary
asymmetrical facades, distinguished by
Bydgoszcz is its excellently preserved street
arrangements based on light and shadow
plan, reflecting the process of transformation
contrasts, with breaks, bay windows, loggias,
of a small town into an important industrial and trade centre with a huge, diversified complex of burgher buildings from the second half of the 19th century and the early 20th century. A walk around the city centre of Bydgoszcz is an excellent opportunity to see the changes in architecture that took place
Ornamental detail on one of the tenement houses in Cieszkowskiego Street
97
triangular and step gables. Big city tenement
(colloquially called the Church of the Poor
houses from the early 20th century belong
Clares), which was occupied by the local
to two stylistic trends: Art Nouveau and
convent of the Poor Clares in the past.
early modernism. What’s characteristic of Bydgoszcz, in spite of the popularity of Art Nouveau in European architecture ca. 1900, the buildings in Bydgoszcz do not represent the typical of Art Nouveau combination of architectural body and pliable, flexible decoration. However, the exterior attire was
A neo-Renaissance portal leads to the
Did you know that... T he city bugle-call, composed on
the 600th anniversary of the city of Bydgoszcz, resounds from the
church tower each day at noon, at 3:00 pm and 6:00 pm.
changed, enriched with flowing plant motifs and masks of long-haired women. The next
Did you know that... In 1834, when the convent was disbanded, the Church of the Poor Clares became the city’s property. From that time, the church housed the municipal scales, was a warehouse of alcoholic beverages, and in 1872 it was turned into a fire station. Next, on the initiative of Herman Franke, the choir gallery was designated for the needs of the Noteć River District History Association. T he collections gathered and exhibited here became the beginnings of the present-day museum.
98
Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, known as the Church of the Poor Clares
period, the twenty-year inter-war period, has
church interior (1925, designed by Stefan
left in the architecture of Bydgoszcz a visible
Cybichowski), where we will see relics of
trace in the form of numerous tenement
frescos from the 17th century, first of all, an
houses in the style of modernism and
excellently preserved wooden ceiling from
functionalism.
the 1640’s decorated with painted rosettes,
Going around the city centre, it is
amidst which we will not find two identical
worthwhile starting from the Church of the
ones. Noteworthy are also the furnishings
Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (1)
from the 1920’s, with a mannerist high altar.
Sightseeing routes | Around the City Centre There is also a painting by Leon Wyczółkowski, depicting Saint Stanislaus Kostka. Going out of the church, we turn right in Gdańska Street. En route we pass several classicist buildings, amidst which the house at 5 Gdańska Street stands out, converted by Rudolf Kern, who made ornaments referring to the forms of Berlin Art Nouveau, with a frieze decorated with stylised swans. The tenement house features the “Pharmacy under the Swan” (2), with a gilded swan on the façade, operating continuously here since 1853. One must go inside, see part of the preserved décor and visit the unique Museum of Pharmacy at the back. Going further up Gdańska Street, at the intersection with Dworcowa Street, we will see an old modernist department store dating from 1910-1911 designed by Otto Walter of Berlin. Ferroconcrete was used for its construction for the first time in Bydgoszcz. The building was famous in the inter-war period as the Bydgoszcz Department Store Be-De-Te, and much later as the Department Store “Jedynak” (3). The decoration of its façade features figures of Greek goddesses:
Pod Orłem Hotel
Opposite the Department Store at 14 Gdańska Street, the edifice of the Pod Orłem Hotel (5) rivets your attention – the building with neo-baroque forms designed by J. Święcicki dates back to 1892-1894. Looking
Did you know that... In the façade decoration of the
Pod Orłem Hotel we find a single portrait masque, which for years was regarded to be an image of the
hotel’s designer according to the
suggestion of a certain art histo-
rian. Nowadays, when it is known what Józef Święcicki looked like,
the question of who this masque depicts still remains unanswered.
Aphrodite, Eris, Hera and Athena, and in the tympanum above the corner window a relief
inside, we will see the glamorous lounge with
with a depiction of Silenus. At 17 Gdańska
stuccowork, stained-glass windows, and
Street, at the corner with Pomorska Street
gilded wrought-iron balustrades. In 1921,
(4) (a street with medieval provenance),
Józef Piłsudski stayed at this hotel to relax
is the area’s oldest two-storey tenement
for a few hours.
house dating from 1852 (designed by B.
From under the Pod Orłem Hotel we
Brinkmann), topped with crenels, reminiscent
go right towards Wolności Square (p. 138),
of a fortified castle.
99
passing no. 16 – the classicist tenement house designed by Carl Semphel (1882) (6). Next, we see the dominant tower of the Church of Saints Peter and Paul (7), designed by Berlin architect, Friedrich Adler. The cornerstone was placed in 1872. The old Protestant church, now Catholic, was constructed on the plan of the Latin cross. In the spacious interior decor, our attention is attracted by stained-glass windows in the chancel, made at the Imperial Stained Glass Institute in Berlin, funded by Emperor William I.
Did you know that... It is also worthwhile looking at the
green tenement house at 3 Wol-
ności Square, on which huge blue jeans hang. T his unique sculpture by Piotr Wagner is a tribute to
the eminent graphic artist and
painter, Andrzej Nowacki, who had his studio for fifty years in this
tenement house. T he sculpture is
a reference to the artist’s famous series “Jeans Wearers”.
Near the church, the next big city tenement houses delight with their beauty. The first one – a neo-baroque house was
Did you know that... T he church was provided with an innovative (at that time) heating
system, consisting of a gas boiler room placed under the chancel,
two heaters and ducts distributing hot air.
designed by J. Święcicki, dating back to 1896 – 1 Plac Wolności Street (8). On the other side, at 27 Gdańska Street (9) (head office of the newspaper Gazeta Wyborcza, among other things) – there is a modernist tenement house (1908, designed by Adolf Schleusener) with a renovated interior featuring a working historical lift. We
go
further
along
Gdańska
Street northwards, to the intersection of three streets: Gdańska, Śniadeckich and Krasińskiego. Here, we see a little bench (designed by Michał Kubiak) of Marian Rejewski (10) – a famous mathematician and cryptologist, who contributed to the breaking of the code of the German cipher machine ”Enigma” during the Second World War. From here, we can choose one of the three options of the further walk around the city centre. Church of Saints Peter and Paul in Wolności Square
100
Sightseeing routes | Around the City Centre
18b
Option 1:
back to 1914, designed by Fritz Weidner,
We go further northwards along
contrasting with the neo-baroque house
Gdańska Street. The long walk along the
no. 36 (2a) designed by J. Święcicki, from
grand street is more attractive thanks to a
the late 19th century.
diversified architectural landscape. Looking
Further, we will face two magnificent
to the right, the even part of the street, and
villas occupied by the Polish Radio Station.
to the left, the odd part of the street, we will
The first one, no. 48 (3a) with a “cafe au
find out the main productions of the local
lait” colour reflects the original colour of the
designers. Right behind the intersection, our
facade. The villa “Flora” owes its name to the
attention is drawn to tenement house no.
now non-existent polychromes decorating
34 (1a) representing the scenic trend, dating
the loggia. The facility was designed by Berlin
101
architect Heinrich Seeling. Built in 1898, the
(4a), was constructed in 1900-1902
villa is one of the most beautiful examples
(designed by Hildebrandt from Berlin)
of the scenic trend in the architecture of the
for Wilhelm Blumwe, the then owner
late 19th century in Bydgoszcz. Its interiors
of the Woodworking Machines Factory
feature relics of rich décor: grand woodwork,
(p.115).
wood panelling, and a ceiling with gilded
residence with Renaissance attire inspired
ornamentation, made using the papier-
by the famous Villa Rotonda by Andrea
mâché technique. In the old garden, at the
Palladio in Vicenza. Unfortunately, only an
The
designer
provided
the
back of the house, is a historical fountain from the late 19th century with a unique, polychromed sculpture of a heron. Ernst Heinrich Dietz (1840-1901), city councillor and co-founder of an inland navigation company (later Lloyd of Bydgoszcz), enjoyed this residence for a short time. However, it remained in the hands of his inheritors until
Did you know that... Until
1940,
the
urn
with
the
ashes of the founder of the local Woodworking Machines Factory –
Carl Blumwe – was placed at the
top of the tympanum of the villa at 50 Gdańska Street, at the top of
the outbreak of the Second World War. Later,
the façade.
it was used by the PPR Polish Workers’ Party,
elegant room with a glazed plafond has
and since 1951 it has been occupied by the
been preserved on the ground floor in the
local radio.
converted interior. Starting from 1930, it
The
neighbouring
villa,
no.
50
was occupied by the Polish Club House,
Did you know that... Heinrich Seeling earned his name in
Europe
theatres.
as
T he
the
now
designer
of
non-existent
Municipal T heatre in Bydgoszcz, which
had
Teatralny
been
Square,
located
was
also
in
his
work. In his career he designed
only two churches: the Protestant
Church of the Saviour (1896-1897) in Zbawiciela Square and the present-
day Catholic Church of St Andrew Bobola (1901-1903) in Kościeleckich
Square – both are the pride of Bydgoszcz.
102
Headquarters of Radio PiK at 50 Gdańska Street
Sightseeing routes | Around the City Centre and during the Second World War by the head office of the NSDAP. On May 1, 1945, the first Polish radio programme after the Second World War was broadcast from here. Now we are at an intersection of streets, at the corner of Cieszkowskiego Street, on the left-hand side we see at number 63 (5a) the exceptionally rich neo-baroque house of builder Józef Święcicki, who was born in Bydgoszcz. If you want to feel the atmosphere of his days, we recommend going for a while into Cieszkowskiego Street, marked out and developed with grand tenement houses within only 10 years (1894-1904). The sculpture of a halberdier (6a) at the corner of house no. 22 (1898, designed by F.
Halberdier on one of the tenement houses in Cieszkowskiego Street
(9a) with a public chapel located in an
Weidner) watches over the street.
old villa. In accordance with the convent observance, the nuns live in seclusion from
Did you know that...
the surrounding world.
F. Weidner appeared in Bydgoszcz as
a
representative
of
an
installation company of his father-
in-law, but he made his name as
an architect, and propagator of modern forms in the architecture of
Bydgoszcz,
converted
from
who
himself
neo-baroque
to
exceptionally impressive projects in the scenic trend.
at numbers 75 (7a) and 52 (8a) we pass with
façades
noteworthy is the tenement house at number 60 (10a) designed by Carl Meyer for himself; he was the city’s construction counsellor (for 26 years he managed the construction
administration,
making
decisions on the architectural shape of Bydgoszcz). The façade décor features
Going further down Gdańska Street buildings
Before we reach the intersection with Mickiewicza Avenue, marked out in 1903,
inspired
a statue of a female personification of Architecture and Construction.
by
We reach Mickiewicza Avenue, on the
classicism. At number 56, is the convent
right-hand side from Gdańska Street. Here,
of the Poor Clares of Perpetual Adoration
at the corner, we see a tenement house,
103
Did you know that... In 1912, Bydgoszcz City Hall announced a competition for the most beautiful façade from among newly built tenement houses. T he two first awards went to local architects Fritz Weidner for the house at 12 Dworcowa Street and Rudolf Kern for the tenement house at 20 Stycznia 1920 Street at number 29.
which was built in 1903-1904 by Rudolf Kern, designed as his own house (11a). Going further along Gdańska Street, we pass another house at number 91 zCzerkaska C
(12a) designed by F. Weidner, using the chiaroscuro typical of architecture of the scenic trend. This style is represented also by a grand villa (1898-1899, designed by Karl Bergner) located at number 84 (13a), designed for the Police Club in 1962-1992. Next, we go past a group of houses number
86-96
(14a)
with
solutions
inspired by the Italian and Northern Renaissance, designed by J. Święcicki. At the intersection with Chodkiewicza Street, at number 100 (15a), we go past a functionalistic tenement house (1935, designed by Paweł Wawrzon). Further, at number 190, we see the edifice of the old War School, constructed right before the First World War, later the Officer Cadet School (16a) from 1913 (designed by Arnold Hartman and Robert Schlezinger). It neighbours the building of the Land Forces
104
Sightseeing routes | Around the City Centre Museum (1973, designed by Zbigniew
particularly impressive stoves. Further,
Kortas) (p. 49). Further, on the same side of
at number 25 (2b) we go past a big city
the street, we see blocks of flats covered by a
tenement house (1911, designed by Georg
line of trees; seven of these buildings dating
Baesler), and beside it a small single-storey
from 1935-1939 represent the functionalist
house with a gable roof (3b), from the days
trend. At the end, after the intersection with
when construction of the district was started.
Modrzewiowa Street, behind the J. Święcicki
On the opposite side of the street, at number
viaduct, it is worthwhile stopping to visit the
36 (4b), it is worthwhile paying attention
Waterworks Museum (17a) (p. 49) located
to the neo-Gothic house of worship of the
in an original complex of buildings from the
Apostolic Union from 1864. The house at
late 19th century. After a long walk, it is good
number 42 (5b) is another neo-Renaissance
to relax at the Myślęcinek Park (p. 66).
tenement house with an interesting detail,
Did you know that... Until
recently,
some
Bydgoszcz
designed by Józef Święcicki (dating from 1882-1883). We reach Piastowski Square (6b), which was marked out as a market
the
square of the so-called Elizabethan district
the former owner of the building
after Elizabeth Ludovika – the wife of the then
residents
had
thought
that
famous actress Pola Negri was at 84 Gdańska Street. However, the
actress owned the tenement house located nearby, at 8 Zamoyskiego
established in the mid-19th century, named Prussian ruler, Frederick William. There was a park and a marketplace, which functions to
Street, which she bought for her mother. T he building wall features a
plaque
Negri.
commemorating
Pola
Option 2: Turning left into Śniadeckich Street, on the left-hand side we stop by a bewitching neo-Renaissance villa at number 1 (1b), the present-day offices of the ADM Municipal Buildings Administration, dating back to the 1870’s, which was a property of Louis Aronshon, the founder of the “Archer Lady” statue. The villa interiors feature many elements of the original décor, with
Church of the Sacred Heart in Piastowski Square
105
this day. It is worthwhile taking a closer look
German origin. It is worthwhile looking
at the western frontage, at the intersection
inside the church to see the preserved decor
with Chrobrego Street; at number 23 (7b),
dating back to the time of its construction.
there is a corner tenement house with
Continuing the walk towards the railway
a characteristic corner crowned with a
station, we reach the Protestant church in
cupola. At 6 Wileńska Street (8b), Marian
Zbawiciela Square (11b) – designed by H.
Rejewski, already mentioned, was born.
Seeling. Behind the church is an interesting
This building features a commemorative
complex of barracks from the 1870’s. Turning
plaque. Moving back to Śniadeckich Street,
left into Matejki Street we reach Dworcowa
which is the main compositional axis of
Street, and turn right into this street. Our
the district, at number 45 (9b) we see a
attention is captured by the monumental
bewitching tenement house guarded by
neo-mannerist building, with a front garden,
a bear cub sculpture, and the wings of a
erected in 1886-1889 for the then Eastern
gate with wrought-iron grille, since metal
Railways Authority (12b) – designed
craftwork companies operated successfully
by Martin P. Gropius & Heino Schmieden,
in Bydgoszcz. Going further in the direction
modified by national construction inspector
of Matejki Street, we see the neo-baroque
Bergman. Impressive brick façades contrast
Church of the Sacred Heart (10b) (1910-
with a rich, sculpture detail made of light
1913, designed by Oskar Hossfeld of Berlin),
sandstone. This construction solved premises
in the past designed for the Catholics of
problems of this important city office. In 1849, Bydgoszcz became the seat of the Royal Eastern Railways Board, transformed
in
the
same year into Europe’s first district railways authority. Starting from 1853, its offices were located in the railway station building, which – in spite of extension – was constantly too small. On the opposite side of the street, at number 82 Building of the former Eastern Railway Authority
106
(13b), is the building of
Sightseeing routes | Around the City Centre the old elementary school with a structure
Polish ”szczupak”, English ”pike”). Crossing
unchanged since the period of its extension
the intersection with Królowej Jadwigi Street,
in the middle of the 1870’s, with forms
we reach two interesting tenement houses
characteristic of education buildings in those
located opposite one another at number
days. Further, in the direction of the railway
77 (16b) and 100 (17b), designed by Karl
station, on the left-hand side at number 65, is
Bergner, which seem to form a gateway
the head office of the State Archive (14b),
open to the city centre. Standing here, with
located in a grand residential-office building,
our backs to the railway station, we see that
with an excellently preserved classicist attire.
from this point Dworcowa Street becomes
It was erected for the brothers Teodor and
narrower. Its further route corresponds with
Adolf Wulff. In 1865-1876, they managed a
the medieval track of the former road to
river shipyard and a steel structures factory.
Koronowo. We turn back and, going straight
A brick production facility at the back of the
ahead, we go to the edifice of the Main
plot dates back to that period.
Railway Station (18b), where our trip ends.
Further, at number 67 (15b) we see a
Did you know that... In the year of its establishment,
Option 3:
built in their river shipyard the
Street, where at the corner with Gdańska
the
Wulff
brothers’
company
“Germania” steam river boat with a chain drive. It was used to tow
We
turn
right
into
Krasińskiego
Street, at number 2 (1c), it is worthwhile
barges and rafts, and in 1970 the
taking a closer look at the tenement house
of a steel bridge on the River Brda,
trend, designed by Julius Knüpfer. Going
company prepared the structure the predecessor of the present Bernardyński Bridge.
representing the classicising modernist eastwards, passing the sub-lieutenant Leszek
Biały
Square
(2c),
with
a
modernist tenement house in all its glory
characteristic concrete sculpture, we will
(dating from 1912-1913) erected for Berlin
get to the exceptional garden district, the
bookseller Erich Hecht to a design by Otto
history of which dates back to the mid-19th
Walter of Berlin. The façade with unique decor
century. At that time, the city authorities
features fantastic and mythological creatures,
bought a vast area as a reserve for the future
and above the main entrance a bas-relief with
extension of the city. In the late 19th century,
a rider on a horse. Above the bas-relief, there is
the concept of a spatial arrangement based
a cartouche with an image of a pike –referring
on the garden city idea began to be created.
to the investor’s surname (German “Hecht”,
In 1912, the final design was prepared by
107
In the distance one can see the dome of the largest church in Bydgoszcz, St. Vincent de Paul Basilica Minor (designed by Adam Ballenstedt), which is modelled after the Roman Pantheon. The church dome was decorated with rosettes featuring motifs of Polish flowers.
Sielanka
Joseph Herman Stübben, which became
surrounded by a beautiful garden, appeared
the foundation for marking out a district
in a newsreel about Bydgoszcz in 1937. After
gracefully called Sielanka (English “idyll”)
the war, the expropriated villa became a
(3c). The district’s green square (the present-
kindergarten. The family which owned this
day Marian Turwid Square) was placed in
house also owned the famous footwear
the centre. The district was popular among
factory “Leo” that after the war was changed
the Bydgoszcz elite. Physicians, lawyers,
to “Kobra” (p. 120). The old residence
architects and factory owners used to live
(1933, designed by Jan Kossowski) of
here. At 16 Kopernika Street, in the corner
merchant Czesław Borys, located at 8a
plot by Ossolińskich Avenue stands a villa
Sielanka Street (5c), was intended for the
called Netherlander (4c), built ca. 1933
local Registry Office – Civil Registry Office.
by Antoni Weynerowski as a wedding gift
We leave Sielanka, going back along
for his son Witold and his wife Julia (who
Krasińskiego Street to Gdańska Street, turn
most probably brought the design from
left and go down Gdańska Street, reaching
her homeland – the Netherlands). This
the Old Town.
house, distinguished by a de l’Orme roof,
108
Sightseeing routes | Alternative image of the city 2. Mózg – a legendary club which has been promoting contemporary art for twenty years, in particular music combining
Alternative image of the city
experiment and improvisation. These days, “Mózg” operates as a centre of alternative, non-commercial art. It is a place for artists creating original, unique art. www.mozg.pl, 10 Gdańska St.
Bydgoszcz is recognized among culture lovers. Popular festivals are important events in the history of the city. Tourists appreciate Bydgoszcz for its myriad historic landmarks, museums, and tourist attractions, but the city has much more to offer. Traditional attractions are perfectly complemented
Mózg Festival
by the Alternative Route. This proposal is a perfect opportunity to learn about Bydgoszcz
3. “Round I” by Jerzy Bereś – an image
as a centre of culture, which can be seen at
of the injured Pegasus, which according
almost every corner. Art lives among locals,
to the artist symbolizes the condition of
becoming unusual thanks to its ordinariness.
contemporary culture. Cast in bronze, the
Places worth visiting:
artwork can be seen on the courtyard of the Municipal Gallery bwa. The Contemporary Art Gallery in Bydgoszcz has been going since 1949. Some
1. Modern Art Gallery – is a collection
of the most important events hosted by the
that is constantly open to new artistic
gallery include exhibitions showcasing works
thought, critical reflection and collecting
of Andy Warhol and Pablo Picasso.
works of artists, who with their activity have
www.galeriabwa.bydgoszcz.pl, 20 Gdańska St.
determined not only the image of Polish art, but have contributed to the development of
4. Andrew’s Trousers – this unique
world art. www.muzeum.bydgoszcz.pl, Mill
sculpture made by Piotr Wagner is a tribute
Island, Red Granary
to the outstanding graphic artist and painter Andrzej Nowacki. The tenement house, in
109
which the artist lived and worked for fifty years, features the sculpted, realistic jeans. The sculpture refers to the famous series of the artist called “Jeans Wearers.” Tenement house, 3 Plac Wolności Street. 5. Monument to the Millennium of the Polish State made by Stanisław Lejkowski unveiled in 1967. In 2010, it became an inspiration for the campaign Urban Vision Quest – installations made by the Cultural Activities Centre “Las.” Leszka Białego Square, at the corner of Krasińskiego, Markwarta and
Andrew’s Trousers
3 Maja Streets.
6
OLD MARKET SQUARE
110
Sightseeing routes | Alternative image of the city 6. Metal statue of Nicolaus Copernicus
theatre also offers a possibility for developing
– made during the First Bydgoszcz Plein-Air
interests and passions in acting (the Young
Sculpting (August-September 1973). This
Stage) and playwriting (Drama School,
metal sculpture was made by Maria Chudoba-
Adaptation School). “Theatre Behind the
Wiśniewska. It weighs 864 kg and is 4.57 m
Scenes” is a campaign that serves as a perfect
high. In addition to the sculpture, the square
opportunity for visiting and taking a look at
owes its uniqueness to ellipses lined with
the theatre from the inside.
natural stone, surrounded by individual
www.teatrpolski.pl, 2 A. Mickiewicza Av.
planets, highlighted by flower beds and new varieties of tulips named after Nicolaus
8. Jan Kaja and Jacek Soliński Gallery
Copernicus. A tree, named Nicolaus, was also
- founded in 1979. During the 1980s, it was
planted on the square. Square in Kopernika
one of only several private galleries operating
Street.
in Poland. It hosted nearly 500 exhibitions, projects, shows, installations, theatre
7. Polish Theatre – for several years it has been actively participating in the
productions, and meetings. www.autorska.pl, 5 Chocimska St.
production of premieres and exclusive premieres as well as social-civic projects of both national and international range. The
Jan Kaja and Jacek Soliński Gallery
9. Gate from Mirrors – installation made by Joanna Rajkowska. The artist used 700 kg of mirrors to create a mosaic in a passage to the courtyard of one of Bydgoszcz’s tenement houses. The project, known under the title “Thermometers and Glass”, can be seen at 5 Mazowiecka St. Nicolaus Copernicus Monument
111
10. Municipal Centre for Culture – a cultural institution and interdisciplinary centre promoting culture in all its aspects and disciplines. It hosts both small workshops and spectacular concerts. Activities of the Centre are guided by the motto “We set the cultural rhythm of the city.” www.mck-bydgoszcz.pl, 12 Marcinkowskiego St.
“Breakfast of the Champions” at 6 Piotra Skargi St
Concert in the Municipal Centre for Culture
Bydgoszcz Murals form an interesting presentation of high quality street art. The Bydgoszcz murals are ranked among the most impressive in the world. This platform served as a springboard for such talented artists as Mateusz Gapski, Przemysław Blejzyk, Bartek Świątecki, and Robert Proch. Poland’s first tenstorey high mural was made here. Some of the
“Music Box”, 5 Wyszyńskiego Street
murals were made by seniors and homeless under integrated activities.
“Master Yoda”, 1c Gackowskiego Street
112
Sightseeing routes | Alternative image of the city “Peter Pan”, 3 Maja Street no. 16
treet,
Murals in the city centre: 1. Be Quiet, 14 3 Maja St. 2. Birdie, 14 3 Maja St. 3. Peter Pan, 16 3 Maja St. 4. Athletes, 24 3 Maja St. 5. Self-description, 7 Ks. Piotra Skargi St. 6. Breakfast of Champions, 5 Ks. Piotra Skargi St. 7. Time, 2 Mikołaja Reja St 8. Time, 3 Poznańska St. 9. Mural in 11 Obrońców Bydgoszczy St. 10. Estrada, 51 Dworcowa St. 11. Mural in 24 Bocianowo St. 12. Sandbox, Bocianowo St. (T. Kościuszki Sq.) 13. Game, 37a T. Kościuszki St. 14. Art of crime, 37 T. Kościuszki St. 15. Mózg/ Fashion House Drukarnia, 2 Parkowa St. 16. Weranda Restaurant, Ks. St. Konarskiego St. (Kazimierz Wielki Park)
113
Other murals outside the city centre:
Other interesting addresses:
ÂÂ ÂÂ ÂÂ
Winter Tale, 29 Karpacka St.
1138 Club & Cafe
Musical Toy, 5 Wyszyńskiego St.
11 Wełniany Rynek St. | tel. +48 796 697 111
Fordon, shelter for the homeless, 422
www.facebook.com/klubokawiarnia1138
Fordońska St.
ÂÂ ÂÂ
Sailing to Freedom, 10 Bora -
Farbiarnia Gallery, Fine Art Photography
Komorowskiego St.
Studio
Master Yoda, 1c Gackowskiego St.
68a/1 Pomorska St. | tel. +48 508 732 871 www.farbiarnia.org
Did you know that... Wzgórze
Wolności,
Bydgoszcz, entitled
designed
residents.
a
features
“T he by
It
district
Winter
a
Bydgoszcz was
Landschaft vintage : cøncept : cøffee in
mural
6 Gimnazjalna St. | tel. +48 503 952 334 www.landschaft.pl
Story”, senior
transferred
to the walls by members of the
Lamminam Vinyl Shop 6 Gimnazjalna St. | tel. +48 696 471 414
artistic group Etam Crew. T here is
www.facebook.com/lamminam/info
which was made under the project
Strefa, Cafe, yoga and pilates
also a mural made by the homeless, New Colours Fordon.
Mural “Winter Tale” in Karpacka Street
11 Długa St./Mill Island | tel. +48 796 956 956 www.strefabydgoszcz.com.pl Widzimisie shot bar, coffee, music, concept shop 5 and 1/2 Kościeleckich Sq. | tel. +48 609 109 248 www.facebook.com/widzimisieto/info Kamienica 12 12 Poznańska St.
114
Sightseeing routes | Industrial heritage of Bydgoszcz River Brda. They included mills, a tannery,
Industrial heritage of Bydgoszcz
an iron foundry, dyeworks, and even the textile factory of Johann Carl Schunck, who employed 163 people in wool processing in 1796. From the 1840’s, workshops, manufacturing halls and large production plants were popping up like mushrooms. We start our tour at the Bydgoszcz Canal (p. 77), which was built with the support of sawmills and brickyards opened especially for this project. Construction of the Canal
Time: about 2 hours
gave the first impulse for commercial and industrial growth of the city. The second
The industrial route is an encounter with
impulse was the opening of the railways in
the old times of former glory, relics of those
1851. Nakielska Street, which runs parallel
parts of the city that were setting its rhythm,
to the Canal, offered convenient conditions
which used to sound with the clatter of
for the development of factories. The first
tools and the whirr of machines. These days, Bydgoszcz participates in the Shift-X project, the aim of which is to make former industrial areas more attractive and open to tourists. However, one can already go for a walk and be surrounded by our industrial heritage landmarks.
Did you know that... In 1860 there were 25 factories
and large craft workshops ope-
rating in Bydgoszcz, whereas in
1895-1905 their number increased from 147 to 548.
Time has erased many workshops and
factory, situated at number 89, was Willy
factories from the cityscape, but architectural
Jahr’s Pomeranian Bicycle Factory (1).
remains of other buildings remind us about
Its buildings dating from 1930 and 1934
the importance and traditions of the
(designed by Alfred Müller) feature typical
local industry, whose products reached
functionalist architecture.
such distant parts of the world as China.
This factory was one of several
A sentimental walk with a post-industrial
companies which in 1949 served as the
heritage in the background is a trip for
founding plants of the United Bicycle
persistent strollers. Starting from the late
Production Plant “Romet” (headquartered in
18th century, the first factories were opened
Fordońska Street). In 1839, at 53 Nakielska
in Bydgoszcz, which stretches alongside the
Street, which was closer to the city centre,
115
19
Plagemann’s agricultural equipment factory
This highly specialised factory manufactured
was established, which was the first machine
frame saws for woodworking. During the
production plant opened in Bydgoszcz. It
interwar period, it produced as many as
was followed by an iron foundry; since 1878,
250 types of them, including self-propelled
the Woodworking Machine Factory (2),
machinery (such as the “Gigantik” model –
founded by Carl Blumwe in 1865 has been
the biggest in the world), which were able
operating continuously to this day, involved
to operate directly in the place of logging.
in the production and repair of farming
House no. 47 (designed by Fritz Weidner)
machinery. Our attention is also focused on
stands nearby. It was built by Wilhelm
the neo-Gothic façade of the factory building (late 19th c.) and neo-baroque residential villa
Did you know that...
with an administrative part (1892, designed
As early as 1802, a paper mill was
by Carl Stamphel), which was the residence of the company owner until he built a new home for his family at 50 Gdańska Street (p. 102). An office building with a motif of crossed hammers is adjacent to the villa.
116
operating at 53 Nakielska Street. T he
owner,
however,
stipulated
in the sale contract that a paper factory was not allowed to operate
in the building. T his clause led to changing the activity conducted in the building.
Sightseeing Trasy zwiedzania routes | Industrial Trasa Przemysłowa heritage of Bydgoszcz
Did you know that...
at 37 Św. Trójcy Street (designed by Otto
In 1845, the owner of the tanne-
Brech, 1910-1912). It was once occupied
ry opened a workshop, in which
he tanned a thousand cowhides a year. F ifty years later, this
number increased to 140,000 a
year and the tannery was one of
the biggest operating in what was
by the channel of the Old Canal, which was used for floating wood. We reach the corner with Czartoryskiego Street. Now, we stop and look at the opposite side of Marszałka Focha Street. Further, behind Grottgera
then Prussia.
Blumwe in 1898 as a kindergarten for workers’ children. Heading east, we leave Nakielska Street (staying on the right side) and passing through the Grunwaldzkie Roundabout we enter Marszałka Focha Street, facing the impressive building of the former School
University of Economics, formerly the tannery
of Crafts and Art Industry (3) (currently
Street that heads north, on the premises
the Complex of Mechanical Schools no. 1)
of the University of Economy, we notice a
117
distinct structure of an old office-residential villa, built in the style of historicism, with
Did you know that...
predominating neo-baroque architecture.
In the refinery’s former
In the past it housed the biggest steampowered tannery (4) in the city, founded in
storehouse there was a huge tank for one million litres of spirits.
1863 by Ludwig Buchholz on the bend of the
Later, we turn right in order to walk
River Brda in Garbary Street, which was still
down to the Brda Młynówka riverside by a
operating in the 1980’s.
paved passage. Here, on the right side, we
We turn right to Czartoryskiego Street.
pass the old building of Wilhelm Kopp’s
On the left side, on the corner, at number 20
laundry and dyeworks (8) dating from the
(5), we pass an impressive, neo-classicist
late 19th century and cross the little bridge
villa (today it houses a branch of the Revenue
to enter Mill Island.
Service in Bydgoszcz) dating from 18551857, built by master carpenter Heinrich Mautz as his residence; he owned a local sawmill for several decades. From 1887, the villa was the property of the State Treasury of Prussia, and later - the State Treasury of Poland, serving as an official apartment of the division commander. Between the end of the 1920’s and the beginning of the 1930’s, division general Wiktor Thommée lived
Building of the old laundry and dye-works of Wilhelm Kopp
here. Further, on the same side of the street, at numbers 4-6, there is a well-preserved complex that was built in 1887-1897 for the needs of C.A. Franke’s spirit refinery (6). The present residential building situated at 6 Czartoryskiego Street, featuring a gable wall decorated with the bas-relief “Children in a Bath”, housed a public bath (7), which was owned by the company, using warm water generated during spirit production. Here, we can enter a courtyard and - on the opposite side - take a look at a charming, neo-mannerist building of an old office.
118
Did you know that... T he
River
Bydgoszcz Brda
Venice,
Młynówka,
on
was
the
a
perfect place for dyeworks, since in the past the water was not separated
from
buildings
by
a
boulevard. T he riverside buildings used
to
approach
the
riverbed,
“entering” it, whereas industrial and bath buildings were designed in such a way that water flowed through was
them.
supplied
watercourse.
T herefore,
by
the
water
Młynówka
Sightseeing routes | Industrial heritage of Bydgoszcz
Rother’s Mills
Across from it, we can find a monumental
steam engine was activated. In this way, the
structure of the famous Bydgoszcz Rother’s
Bydgoszcz industry entered “The Steam Age”.
Mills (9) dating back to 1848-1849 with the
Once again we enter Marszałka Focha
prominent, massive brick building, which
Street, this time to admire the impressive
had once featured a mill with grains and
building of the Opera Nova (built on the site
flour warehouses attached to it. We pass
once occupied by the granaries that were
the grand building, walking alongside it
consumed by fire in the 1960’s). From here,
on the right. In front of us, on the left side,
we head east, to the right. On the left side,
is an old brick mill (1861), changed later
we pass a group of tenement houses. Behind
into a granary – called “The Red Granary”
them, just like in other buildings in city
(10) (occupied today by the Modern Art
centres, small companies used to operate in
Gallery of the District Museum). Just in front
the past. They included production plants
of it, we turn left and follow a walking alley
involved in manufacturing shoes and
alongside the riverside to the footbridge. In
mineral water, and a printing house (13).
front of the footbridge, on the right side, is
Now we face a magnificent corner building
“The White Granary” (11), dating from the
(6 Plac Teatralny Street, which features
18th century, changed to meet the needs of
the name “Savoy” on its façade) (14) with
the museum (Archaeological Collection). The
features
footbridge offers a view of the old groat mill
built in 1912 (designed by Henry Gross of
(12) driven by a water turbine changed into
Berlin) for Otto Pfefferkorn, an owner of a
a power plant. It’s worth mentioning that in
furniture factory who had his showroom in
1846, in the former Royal Mills, the city’s first
the building. His famous factory, founded
of
classicizing
modernism,
119
in 1884, was turned into the Bydgoszcz
from a small shoe workshop, run by Wiktor
Furniture Factory operating to this day.
Weynerowski, his wife and children, into an
Now, we walk straight, going under
enterprise which in quality and production
the arcade of Pfefferkorn’s tenement house,
standards competed fiercely with the Czech
reaching the beginning of Jagiellońska Street,
footwear factory “Bata” during the 1930’s.
which runs parallel to the River Brda. Across
Around 1891, the company “W. Weynerowski
the street, behind the old Church of the Poor
and Son. Footwear Factory” was taken over
Clares, we can notice the glass façade of a
by the son Antoni, who had been helping
shopping centre (15), reminding us of the
his father in the shoe making business as a
classicist façade of the old printing house
twelve-year-old boy. The factory was moved
and two centuries of notable printing
to the buildings at 34 Św. Trójcy Street,
traditions, which Bydgoszcz could boast
which no longer exist. Later, the prospering
of. In 1806, Jan Adam Kimmel received a
factory needed a more prominent seat.
royal charter to run a printing house, which
For that purpose, the Weynerowski family
was later assigned to his stepson, Andrzej
purchased a large plot at the corner of
Fryderyk Gruenauer. He opened a printing
Kościuszki and Chocimska Streets (17).
house in Poznańska Street, which in May
Bydgoszcz architect Paul Sellner designed
1815 he moved to the house with an annex
a modern factory building with two storeys
occupying the site at 1 Jagiellońska Street.
and an attic, with facilities for workers and a
In 1875, Gruenauer’s printing house was
spacious goods lift.
switched to steam power, which contributed to its further development.
The
factory’s
growth
gained
momentum in its new location. The number
Another complex worth mentioning is
of people employed there increased to 300.
a group of residential and factory buildings
In 1929, the company was taken over by
at 12 Podwale Street. The four-wing building
Antoni’s sons, Henryk and Witold, who three
with an internal courtyard was built in
years later named the family business “Leo”
1871-1875 for J.G. Böhlke’s soap factory
Footwear Factory S.A., commemorating their
(16) established here in 1849. These days,
brother Leon, who had died during The First
the Bydgoszcz soap making traditions are
World War and their mother Leokadia (who
preserved by the Museum of Soap and
died in 1927).
History of Dirt with a manufacturing hall at 13-17 Długa Street (p. 63).
The Second World War brought an end to this family enterprise. After 1945, the
A family-run shoe company, founded in
nationalized “Leo” Footwear Factory, known
1876, forms a beautiful chapter in the history
later as “Kobra”, operated at 27 Kościuszki
of Bydgoszcz industrialization. It expanded
Street until 1992.
120
Sightseeing routes | Industrial heritage of Bydgoszcz Other landmarks on the industrial
was originally owned by the Wolfen & Fließ
heritage map of Bydgoszcz include the
company, and from 1892 - by Baerwald & Co.,
partially preserved complex of buildings
which had successfully competed with the
of the local gasworks (18), which was
mills on Mill Island. In the summer of 1938,
opened on this site in 1860 – 42 Jagiellońska
Bronisław Kenzer became the new owner. He
Street. A little bit further, across the street,
opened the company known as “Kentzer’s
at 43-47 Jagiellońska Street, there are
Mills” (21). They were nationalized after ten
the front buildings of the old Municipal
years. These days, the buildings of the old
Slaughterhouse (19), designed by Carl
mill and grain warehouse dating from 1916
Meyer and opened in 1890. In 2006, the
have been turned into a hotel known as
group of buildings was incorporated into
Słoneczny Młyn.
the new shopping centre built on the site once occupied by the other buildings of the slaughterhouse.
Did you know that... In 1937-1938, Jerome David Salinger who wrote “T he Catcher in
the Rye”, served an internship in the Bydgoszcz slaughterhouse. A commemorative plaque with
the writer’s image can be seen
in one of the slaughterhouse buildings (in the present shopping centre).
Słoneczny Młyn Hotel, formerly Kentzer’s Mills
Across the street, at number 117, is a sizable property, where among old trees we can find the functionalist buildings of
Another stop on the route is the factory
the “Pasamon” Factory manufacturing
building at 92 Jagiellońska Street (20),
haberdashery, tapes and straps (22),
which once housed Brunon Sommerfeld’s
founded in 1924, which continues to make
company, founded in 1905. From a workshop
woven tapes and technical haberdashery.
specializing in the repair of keyboard
The director’s villa dating from the 1930’s
instruments, it turned into a production
deserves a special mention. Just like the
plant manufacturing outstanding pianos,
factory buildings, it was designed by Jan
known even outside Poland. Unfortunately,
Kossowski.
it operated only until 1945. 96 Jagiellońska
The extension of Jagiellońska Street is
Street was once occupied by a steam-
Fordońska Street, heading to the centre of
powered mill, opened around 1862, which
a little old town called Fordon, which now
121
is one of the districts of Bydgoszcz. Many
villa with an interesting cornice designed by
industrial buildings have been saved in this
Bronisław Jankowski, dating from 1930-1931.
street. The most notable of them, situated in
One of the strengths of this location was the
the southern part of the street, feature vast
direct access to the river port. Since 1914,
complexes of factory buildings. Number 152
its neighbour, at number 154, has been the
was formerly occupied by the Bydgoszcz
Bydgoszcz Plywood Factory (24), operating
Cable Factory, and presently by TELEFONIKA
partially in historical buildings dating back
Kable Sp. z o.o. S.K.A. (23). Founded in
to the company’s foundation. Going further
1920, the complex consists of buildings
towards Fordon, we reach a skyscraper
constructed in 1920-1924 and later. The
standing at 246 Fordońska Street, which in
oldest buildings include the entrance gate
the past housed offices of the well-known
and the office building with the production
Bicycle Production Plant Romet (25). The
facility. Newer buildings feature the director’s
old production facilities were pulled down.
A little bit of history Bydgoszcz had its heyday between the 15th and 17th centuries. Taking advantage
Trail of
hydrotechnical
historical sites
of its ideal location on the Brda and Vistula, the city was one of the major places on the map of Poland in that period. Commerce developed on the navigable waters of the River Vistula, where the main trade goods included grains, beer and ceramic products. Unfortunately, after being ravaged by fires during the Swedish invasion and epidemics, Bydgoszcz lost its prominent position. This
Bydgoszcz is an important place on the
miserable period continued for over a century.
water map of Poland. Its location on the Brda
As a result of the partitions of Poland, the city
and Vistula rivers as well as the Bydgoszcz
and its surrounding region were annexed by
Canal is undoubtedly an attraction for water
Frederick the Great. Noticing the potential of
tourists, who can come here by boat all the
this place, he decided to build a connection
way from Berlin, by the E-70 International
between the Odra and Vistula rivers. The
Watercourse.
26-kilometre-long Bydgoszcz Canal, built in
122
Sightseeing routes | Trail of hydrotechnical historical sites
1773–1774, contributed to the rapid growth of Bydgoszcz, which became a large industrial and commercial centre in the 19th century.
Bydgoszcz Water Junction The Bydgoszcz Water Junction is a “water network” developed thanks to connections
Bydgoszcz was once again becoming
between the Brda, Vistula, Bydgoszcz Canal
an inland port. Construction of a new
and the Upper Noteć Canal as well as smaller
branch of the Bydgoszcz Canal in 1908–1915
watercourses (Flis, Struga Młyńska, and
played a very important role in the history of
Prądy), featuring unique historic landmarks
river transport of the city. New locks made
of hydrotechnical engineering.
navigation of larger vessels possible. After regaining its independence and the return
Did you know that...
of Bydgoszcz to Poland in 1920, river trade
Bydgoszcz has about fifty cros-
lost its relevance for a brief period. In that time, the vast part of the German shipping company Bromberger Schleppschiffahrt
sings over the River Brda and
Bydgoszcz Canal, including a host of bridges and footbridges.
Aktien Gesellschaft was Polonized, resulting
An important part of the Bydgoszcz
in the change of its name to Bydgoszcz Lloyd,
Water Junction is the Old Bydgoszcz Canal
which took over the previous carriers. During
(p. 77), as well as the new waterway dating
the interwar Period, the company had quickly
from the 20th century with hydrotechnical
become an important link in the national river
facilities, including the locks Osowa Góra,
transport system. The river infrastructure was
Prądy, Czyżkówko, and Okole. These days,
nationalized after The Second World War.
they are in operation and are incorporated
123
into the E-70 International Waterway. From the beginning of their operation, they
Did you know that...
enabled transport of the biggest vessels of
T he area of Okole Lock served as
that time, with a weight exceeding 400 tons. All locks are the same length – 57.4 m and width – 9.6 m. However, they differ in terms of the height of lifting. The two locks in the west – Osowa Góra and Prądy – were built in 1773–1774. The facilities were reconstructed in 1908–1915 and enable lifting at the height of 3.55 and 3.82 m. Passage through each lock
a location for the cult T V series “Czterej
pancerni
i
pies”
(Four
Tank-men and a Dog). T he most spectacular
Bydgoszcz
episode
was related to the famous blowing
up of the gates of Lock no. 3 with
the use of Panzerfaust by one of the leading characters called
Gustlik. It should be mentioned that it was not the only lock shown in the series. Observant viewers noticed
scenes
featuring
the
locks in Grottgera Street and Rybi Square that no longer exist.
the River Brda, we sail under railway bridges, the Królowej Jadwigi Bridge, passing the stately building of the former East Prussia Railway Authority, which was erected in the late 19th century, approaching finally another lock called the Municipal Lock. Starting Okole Lock
is no longer than 20 minutes.
from the origins of the Bydgoszcz Canal, it had caused most of the problems, which
The next two hydrotechnical facilities
were related to very difficult geotechnical
look almost the same. The locks of Czyżkówko
conditions on the site of its construction. In
and Okole were built on a new, two-kilometre-
1882–1884, the wooden municipal lock was
long cut in 1908–1915, replacing five locks on
replaced with a new structure featuring a
the Old Bydgoszcz Canal. They had to level out
unique, trapezoidal design. Barges passed
the difference in levels of more than 15 metres.
through this lock with their stern ahead,
Czyżkówko Lock rises by 7.52 m in nearly 30
which was a significant difficulty since they
minutes, and Okole by 7.58 m in about 20
had to be turned. The lock was replaced with
minutes. These locks have saving basins, which
a new structure only during reconstruction
reduce the amount of water needed for the
of the Bydgoszcz Canal in 1908–1915. This
passage of boats through the lock.
impressive facility has survived to this day.
Travelling across Bydgoszcz downstream
124
This single-chamber lock of dock design, just
Sightseeing routes | Trail of hydrotechnical historical sites Did you know that... T here are three hydroelectric power stations in Bydgoszcz,
generating about 4.5 MW of power. T hey include the “Smukała” Power Plant, the “Mewat” Power Plant in
Czersko Polskie, and the “KujawMunicipal Lock
like the canal locks, is sized 57.4 by 9.6 m, with
ska” Power Plant, which features
a sizeable collection of technical equipment.
the height of lift of 3.33 m. Passage through
as the office of shipping companies that had
the lock takes about 20 minutes.
operated in Bydgoszcz throughout the 20th
Two weirs – “Ulgowy” and “Farny” – play
century. Across from Rybi Square, there is the
a very important role in damming the water
magnificent neo-Gothic building of the Polish
in the city centre. Their task is to let in the
Post Office.
water from the Młynówka to the Brda. The
Further east, we sail under the
height of damming water is about 3.36 m.
Bernardyński Bridge. In its proximity, is a little
The “Ulgowy” Weir, which is hand operated,
mansion, which has been housing offices of
was built in 1920.
numerous rowing societies starting from the
Several decades ago, barges and
beginning of the 20th century.
tugboats were seen frequently in the city
We end our adventure with the
centre of Bydgoszcz. The “LEMARA” barge,
Bydgoszcz water junction at the Czersko Polskie barrage, which consists of two locks
Did you know that... During the last reconstruction of the weir on the River Młynówka, a
whitewater kayaking course was established, which is one of only a few in the immediate city centre
– Brdyujście and Czersko Polskie, roller dam, fishway at the roller dam, hydroelectric power station, weir, and another hydroelectric power station on the right side of the weir. Brdyujście Lock was built in 1879. With a size of 57.4 by 18 m, it enabled clearing the
in Europe.
difference in levels of 2.3 m in height. These
not self-propelled, moored in Rybi Square,
days it is decommissioned. It was replaced by
reminds us of them.
Czersko Polskie Lock in 2002. The new lock,
The port in the city centre of Bydgoszcz is also remembered by the scenic granaries
115 by 12 m in size, enables passage with a 4.9 m difference in levels.
and the Bydgoszcz Lloyd Palace, which served
125
10 10 1. Osowa Góra Lock
9. Okole Lock
2. Prądy Lock
10. Railway bridges
3. Gwiazda Marina
11. Królowej Jadwigi Bridge
4. Czyżkówko Lock
12. Municipal Lock
5. Lock no. 6 on the Old Bydgoszcz Canal
13. “Ulgowy” Weir
6. Lock no. 5 on the Old Bydgoszcz Canal
14. Bydgoszcz Marina
7. Museum of the Bydgoszcz Canal
15. Mill Island
8. Lock no. 4 on the Old Bydgoszcz Canal
16. Historic water level gauges 17. Międzywodzie - the between-water-area 18. “Farny” Weir 19. “Kujawska” Hydroelectric Power Station 20. Jerzego Sulimy-Kamińskiego Bridge 21. Brdyujście Lock 22. Czersko Polskie Lock 23. Brdyujście Boat Race Course
Czersko Polskie Roller Dam
126
24. Czersko Polskie Roller Dam
Sightseeing routes | Trail of hydrotechnical historical sites
21
Locks: Opening hours vary by season; please inquire
Locks on the River Brda
by phone.
www.gdansk.rzgw.gov.pl Czersko Polskie Lock – tel. +48 52 343 51 11
Locks of the Bydgoszcz Canal
Municipal Lock – tel. +48 52 322 37 01
www.poznan.rzgw.gov.pl Okole – tel. +48 52 322 56 20 Czyżkówko – tel. +48 52 379 75 72
Did you know that...
Prądy – tel. +48 696 721 036
T he Museum of the Bydgoszcz
Osowa Góra – tel. +48 52 372 20 42
Canal has been operating in Byd-
goszcz since 2006. It is located at 3 Nowogrodzka Street. tel. +48 693 765 075
www.muzeumkanalu.pl
127
plethora of 19th-century tenement houses and old factories that practically emerge from the water create a place known as Bydgoszcz
By bicycle through Bydgoszcz
Venice (4a). Walking under the shade of expansive chestnut trees, we reach the footbridge over the Młynówka, which takes us straight to Świętej Trójcy Street. Here, we are welcomed by a modernist tenement house (5a) dating from the 1930’s, at number 5/5a, designed by architect Jan Kossowski. We turn right and following Świętej Trójcy Street we head
Route 1: On the Old Bydgoszcz Canal Time: 1 hour, distance: 3.5 km
for the Grunwaldzkie Roundabout. One of the attractions en route is the Holy Trinity Church (6a), featuring modernist architecture and a neo-baroque interior, built in 1910-1912 and designed by Poznań architect Roger Sławski. Across from the church, at number
We start our tour in the Old Market
23, there is a very unique tenement house
Square, at the Bydgoszcz Information
(7a) featuring interesting Art Nouveau
Centre (1a), where we can hire a bicycle.
ornaments, built in 1903. Murals made by
We head to Mill Island by Niedźwiedzia
Brunon Gęstwicki (1882-1969) can be seen
Street. It’s worth taking a look at a simple
inside. At the end of the street, our attention
baroque tenement house (2a) at number
is focused on the building of the old Royal-
11, which used to house the pharmacy Pod Niedźwiedziem. Ku Młynom Street takes us to a 6-hectare island (p. 76) situated in the middle of the city. The first building that should draw our attention is the Red Granary dating from 1861 (3a), formerly a steampowered mill, now one of the buildings of the Leon Wyczółkowski District Museum. We leave this old industrial facility on the right side and go further alongside the River Młynówka, a rapidly flowing tributary of the River Brda. A
128
Bydgoszcz Venice on the River Młynówka
Sightseeing routes | By bicycle through Bydgoszcz some of which are designated as national natural landmarks, dating back to the times of Napoleon Bonaparte. At a section between lock no. 4 and lock no. 5 (12a) we pass near the Museum of the Bydgoszcz Canal (11a), housed in a 19th-century utility building at 3 Nowogrodzka Street. Continuing straight, we go past the historical lock no. 5, going under the railway tracks (Bydgoszcz – Inowrocław line) and reach the buildings of the oldest sports club in the city, Gwiazda Bydgoszcz. We end our canal sightseeing trip on the site where Józefa Bronikowskiego Street crosses the canal, more precisely at lock no. 6 (13a). From here, we can turn back and return to Church of the Holy Trinity
the city centre on the other side of the Canal or continue our sightseeing taking Route II.
Prussian School of Crafts and Art Industry (8a) dating from the early 20th century. These days, it serves as the premises of the Complex of Mechanical Schools no. 1. Now, we walk across Kruszwicka Street, towards a shopping centre, from which we head north to the Old Bydgoszcz Canal (1773-1774) (p. 77). On the other side of the roundabout, we turn left and walk alongside a little stream, which is a reminder of a section of the Old Canal that was backfilled in 1971. On the right side, we pass the Starofarny Cemetery (9a), the oldest necropolis in Bydgoszcz. We cut through Wrocławska Street, passing the historical lock no. 4 (10a) and continue our trip alongside the canal. We are surrounded by lush greenery, featuring expansive trees,
Gate of the Starofarny Cemetery
129
ROUTE I
OSIELSK
130
Sightseeing routes | By bicycle through Bydgoszcz
KO
Did you know that... T here are many historical graves in the Starofarny Cemetery, including
graves of French soldiers who died during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 1871, the grave of the distinguished Bydgoszcz citizen
Teofil MagdziĹ&#x201E;ski and a cemetery chapel commemorating residents of
the city who were killed in 1939. T he oldest preserved tombstone dates from 1864. Many prominent residents of the city are buried here.
131
Route II: Old Bydgoszcz Canal – Smukała – Myślęcinek – Old Town Time: 4 hours, distance: 26 km Going past the Bydgoszcz Canal and
Munument of Paddles in Smukała
stopping by in the proximity of the sports club and lock no. 6, on the site occupied by
and the Second World War cemetery (2b),
“Gwiazda” Marina (13a), we turn right to
at number 160, dedicated to the victims of
Bronikowskiego Street, which will lead us
the resettlement camp and re-education.
to the Western Junction, more precisely
At the crossing of Opławiec and Biwakowa
to Grunwaldzka Street. We cross this busy
Streets, on the River Brda, an unusual
thoroughfare with suitable caution and turn
monument with paddles (3b) has been
into Nad Torem Street. At the first traffic light
erected. The kayak along with the paddles
we enter the pavement, where we find a
protruding from it commemorates the 1953
bike path. We continue our trip along Nad
and 1966 trips on the River Brda taken by
Torem Street all the way to the end of the
Father Karol Wojtyła, later Pope John Paul II.
bike path. We go further by a pedestrian-
We turn right to Biwakowa Street and enter
biking trail along Koronowska Street to the
Smukalski Bridge. It offers a view of the
crossing with Opławiec Street. We turn into
beautiful scenery created by the waters of the
this street, which will lead us to Biwakowa
River Brda. We pass the bus terminal and turn
Street. En route, we pass the Smukała Dam
right to Smukalska Street. We travel a long
(1b) with a hydroelectric power station
stretch of the road surrounded by woods. At number 113 we suggest turning right in order to see the Shrine of the Mother Thrice Admirable (4b), one of the six Shrines of Entrustment to the Schoenstatt Movement in Poland (dedicated in 2001). We return to Smukalska Street, in order to turn left after several minutes, into a fire escape route, number 16. It will lead us to “Myślęcinek” Forest Park of Culture and Recreation
Barrage in Smukała
132
( p. 66), the biggest municipal park in
Sightseeing routes | By bicycle through Bydgoszcz Poland (830 hectares). Going straight
waterworks station, which features the
through the forest we reach Rekreacyjna
Museum of Waterworks (7b). We go across
Street, merging into it on the bend of the
an overpass over the railway tracks and pass
road, in the immediate proximity of the PKP
on the right the Zdzisław Krzyszkowiak
Bydgoszcz Rynkowo railway station (5b).
Zawisza Stadium (8b), then we turn right
We get off the bike and carry it across the
to Powstańców Warszawy Street. This leads
footbridge (access to the footbridge is rather
us to the railway tracks. At the end of the
steep). We go through Jeździecka Street and
street, we take the left turn and continue
turn right to the forest at its first bend. We
our trip first by a bike path alongside the
go straight to the lookout tower, which we
Nowofarny Cemetery (9b), and further –
pass and turn right. Going through a ravine, we go down to one of several ponds of Myślęcinek. Near the lake, close to which there is a little spring popular among the locals, we turn right towards the Kujawsko-Pomorskie Ecological Education Centre in Myślęcinek (6b). We continue our trip by a paved section of the road to the first intersection, where we take a right turn to Hipiczna
Historical Pump Room
Street, which will lead us to the Różopole common. We turn left, going
by Zaświat and Zygmunta Augusta Streets.
past it on the right side. We go straight to
We go past the buildings of Bydgoszcz
Gdańska Street, passing on the left the
Główna railway station (10b), accessing
Myślęcinek Zoo and allotment gardens. This
Unii Lubelskiej Street. We cross the street
place is a great opportunity to use Route III
and then turn right, entering the boulevard
and go to Fordon or further to Ostromecko.
running alongside the River Brda.
Another option is to take a bike path running
Before we turn left, we can take a look
alongside Gdańska Street, which will take us
at the opposite site, which features three
back to the city centre. On the left side we go
railway bridges (11b). The nearest one – the
past the historical buildings of “Las Gdański”
eastern bridge – is one of the oldest railway
133
bridges in Poland (1851). Going along the boulevard, we go across the Królowej Jadwigi road bridge, which was built in 1913. We pass the monumental building of the former Eastern Railways Authority (12b), built in 1886-1889 in the style of Netherlandish mannerism. Now, we enter the Władysława Jagiełły tram bridge (the first suspended tram bridge in Poland, 2011-2012), which takes us across the River Brda. We follow the route alongside the tram
M/S Bydgoszcz at the Municipal Lock
(13b), built in the castellated style in the early
Route III: Old Canal – Smukała – Myślęcinek – Fordon – Ostromecko
20th century. We continue to go straight to
Time: all day, distance: 37 km + return about
Marszałka Focha Street, where we take the
14 km
tracks. At the crossing with Garbary Street, we can notice the beautifully restored façade of the corner tenement house
left turn toward Solidarności Bridges, which offer a great view of the Municipal Lock
This is an extension of routes I and
(14b) dating from 1915. In its proximity, we
II. When we reach Gdańska Street, we go
find a unique, older trapezoidal lock dating
further via a cycle route trail alongside
from 1884, which was unveiled recently. On
Sądecka Street, all the way to Armii Krajowej
the pedestrian crossing, we take our bike
Avenue. At the pedestrian crossing in the area
across the street, where we can go for a ride
of Zamczysko Street, we go across this busy
around the building of the Opera Nova
thoroughfare and continue our trip by a forest
(15b). Finally, we go across the footbridge
biking trail (red biking trail), which leads us
to Mill Island, from which we return to the
to Akademicka Street in Fordon. We head
Old Market Square. We end our trip in the
east, first by Akademicka Street, followed by
same place as we started.
Korfantego Street (where we turn left) and later by Twardzickiego Street. At the crossing with Bołtucia Street we turn left, going past the Parish of Our Lady, Queen of Martyrs and enter the area of the Bydgoszcz Death Valley (1c). This site served as a place for mass
134
Sightseeing routes | By bicycle through Bydgoszcz executions of Bydgoszcz residents carried out
(pavilion II of the prison), served as an old
by the Germans in 1939. There are symbolic
Prussian customs house.
graves, a monument, and the Stations of the
After a brief stop in Old Fordon, we go
Cross of the Bydgoszcz Calvary – Golgotha
back to the bridge and after crossing the
of the 20th century, part of the Shrine of Our
Vistula we take the bike down a flight of stairs,
Lady, Queen of Martyrs. After making a loop in
which can be found on the left side, behind
the Death Valley, we go back to Twardzickiego
the last span of the bridge. Taking the asphalt
Street. Then we take Kleeberga Street,
road (right turn) we head towards Strzyżawa,
Andersena Street (where the trail runs parallel
continuing our trip by a forest biking trail on
to the street), Sielska, Ametystowa and Flotylli
the left side, alongside regional road no. 551.
Wiślanej Streets, reaching a crossing over the
We enter the parking lot of Ostromecko
Vistula, the Rudolf Modrzejewski Fordon
Palace and Park (4c) at 9 Bydgoska Street
Bridge (2c), which in the past (1893) was the
by taking a left turn from the regional road,
longest bridge in the German Empire.
several metres before entering the town of
We recommend taking a quick exit to
Ostromecko. (p. 147).
Bydgoska Street from the roundabout that is
We return to Bydgoszcz by the same
just before the bridge, which will take us to
route, all the way to “Myślęcinek”. We continue
the Market Square in Old Fordon (3c). These
our trip back by the route marked as Option
days, it is a district of Bydgoszcz, which until
II. We can also go back to Bydgoszcz by train
1973 was a separate small town with a very
from the railway station in Ostromecko.
long, multicultural history. Some of the most prominent historic sites of Old Fordon include a classicist building of an old synagogue dating from the late 18th century, which miraculously survived the German occupation (the Nazis turned it into a cinema, which was going until 1988), the neo-Gothic Church of St John, Apostle and Evangelist dating from 1878-1879, and the neo-baroque Church of St Nicholas dating from 1927-1928 (designed by Stefan Cybichowski). In the Market Square of Old Fordon, our attention is focused on a group of buildings of the Penitentiary Prison for men, whose origins date back to 1859. The oldest of the buildings, erected in 1780-1783
New Palace in Ostromecko
135
initiative of President of Bydgoszcz District, Carl von Wissmann, thus it was known initially as Wissmann’s Hill. The park featured ponds
Green Bydgoszcz
and a waterfall connecting them. It was very popular from the early 20th century, when a water tower with a lookout terrace offering a panoramic view of the city was erected on the top of the hill. In 1920, the park was named after Gen. Henryk Dąbrowski, who stopped on this site in October 1794 (an obelisk commemorating this event, made by Krystyna
Time: approx. 3 hours (park in Myślęcinek, additional 2 hours)
Panasik, was erected in 1995). Revitalization works have continued in this place since 2002. The park features several national natural landmarks, including pedunculate
In Bydgoszcz, the first gardens were
oak, northern red oak, ginkgo, Turkestan elm,
established in monasteries and suburbs,
small-leaved linden, and white willow. New
where they were owned by affluent town-
plantings added in 2013 included Caucasian
smen. During the period of the partitions
oak “Concordia”, Japanese Pagoda Tree, and
of Poland, the Society for Beautification of
cornus controversa “Variegata”.
the City of Bydgoszcz and its Environs (ac-
We continue our trip, going down
tive 1832-1898) made the city greener by
towards the Old Town by Terasy Street all
planting new trees and creating greenery
the way to the New Market Square. We take
in city squares. During the interwar period, Bydgoszcz, Katowice and Warsaw had been known as the greenest cities of Poland. Since 2004, works have been underway on the project “Restoration of Tree Alleys in the City Centre based on the plantings from the 1920’s and 1930’s”. In terms of green areas, the city is only behind Warsaw. We start our walk at the water tower at 1 Filarecka Street (Museum of Waterworks). The Henryk Dąbrowski Park (1), stretching on a steep terraced hill, was established on the
136
Did you know that... Artist Zbyszko Piwoński turns dead tree trunks into sculptures in the
streets of Bydgoszcz. T hey can be
seen at 30 Gdańska Street, “Woman in Doves”, in Mickiewicza Avenue, “Awakening of Elves” (both made in
2006), and in Słowackiego Street, “We Will Play in Just a Moment”
(2010). T here is also a monument of Dwarves made in Konopnicka Street by Mirosław Kufel (2012).
Sightseeing routes | Green Bydgoszcz
“We Will Play in Just a Moment”- sculpture in a dead tree trunk
Wąska Street to Wełniany Square. After that,
Streets. A small square (3) dating from the
we go through a small passage between the
second half of the 19th century, featuring
tenement houses no. 6a and 7, through a
a wayside shrine with a statue of Our Lady,
lattice footbridge, and enter Mill Island (2)
is seen close to the old Church of the Poor
(p. 76). Situated in the heart of the city, this green oasis encourages relaxing by the
Did you know that...
humming canal of Międzywodzie, admiring
At the beginning of the 1950’s, in a
the Bydgoszcz Venice, and taking a walk along paved alleys lined with chestnuts, lindens and willows planted in the 19th century. The central part of the island is occupied by a playground for children. We leave Mill Island, heading towards the Old Market Square by Ku Młynom and Niedźwiedzia Streets. We cut through the Old Market Square and take Mostowa Street to the crossing of Gdańska and Jagiellońska
square close to the water tower,
the communist authorities built a wooden structure with a radio
jamming device for disrupting the signal of radio stations from
Western Europe. On November 18, 1956, residents of Bydgoszcz burnt
the radio station mast. Participants of this campaign were subjected to
repressions, but the tower was not rebuilt. This event is commemorated by a plaque installed in 1996.
137
which was outlined in the convent in the 16th century. In 1835, after the convent was disbanded, the garden was turned into the District Park (Regierungs Garten) that was owned by the District Office, situated at what is now 3 Jagiellońska Street (presently, the Regional Office). The garden was open only to the city officials and closed to other residents of the city. In 1900-1901, it was changed to the Municipal Park (Stadt Park), redesigned by Paul Meyerkamp, and opened to the public. In July 1909, the “Deluge” Fountain was unveiled (p. 84). Trees of the park had suffered during Kazimierz Wielki Park
Did you know that...
the Second World War, when bunkers were excavated there. Since 1945, the park has been named after King Casimir the Great.
T he convent garden was slightly
It is a very charming place with two ponds
the present-day 3 Maja Street. It
one of them), the restored fountain and a
larger than the park, reaching
featured a fishing pond, an orchard with fruit trees, vegetable garden, and a garden with medicinal plants,
(a swan house can be seen in the middle of playground for children. During hot summer days, one can hide in the shade of old trees.
which in the 16th century included
Rare specimens of trees can be seen in the
horseradish,
pedunculate oaks, and ginkgo. The park looks
such plants as common wormwood, summer
savory,
garlic, mustard plant, dill, mint,
and nettles. T he nuns used them
to make medicines administered to the needy gathering at the convent lazaretto.
park, including bald cypress, London plane, particularly beautiful in the autumn. The park borders Wolności Square (5) featuring a monument commemorating the Red Army soldiers who died during the battles for liberation of the city, erected in
Clares at 2 Gdańska Street. Going through
1945 (designed by Jan Kossowski). In 1990,
Gdańska Street, we reach Wolności Square.
it was renamed the Freedom Monument.
In its proximity, is the Kazimierz Wielki Park
In 1888-1919, the site was occupied by the
(4), which is the oldest park in the city. Here,
equestrian statue of Wilhelm I (designed by
the Poor Clares used to have their garden,
Alexander Calandrelli).
138
Sightseeing routes | Green Bydgoszcz We continue our walk, turning from
on September 5, 1939 (designed by Józef
Wolności Square to Gimnazjalna Street
Makowski). The most frequently visited
and further, through its extension, which is
statue in the park is the Archer Lady (p.
Libelta Street. In front of us, we can find the
80), erected in 1960 at a park square across
Jan Kochanowski Park (6), a landscape park
from the Polish Theatre. During the 1970s, on
established in 1901 by Konrad Neumann (the
the initiative of Andrzej Szwalbe, the head of
then director of the Bydgoszcz Municipal
the Pomeranian Philharmonic, work started
Gardens). Scenic, meandering paths, vast
on establishing a music district. The Park
green areas, a playground for children and
and the area surrounding the Pomeranian
a myriad of tree and shrub varieties make
Philharmonic was successively adorned with
the park one of the favourite recreation sites for the locals. The Academy of Music is
Did you know that...
located in the vicinity of the park. The music
In 1946, on the occasion of the
heard from the building makes walking even more pleasant. In August 1927, a monument to Henryk Sienkiewicz (designed by Konstanty Laszczka) was unveiled, which was damaged during the Second World War. The current statue of the writer was erected on the same site in May 1968 (made by Stanisław Horno-Popławski). In 1970, a
600th anniversary of Bydgoszcz,
the Kazimierz Wielki Park and the
surrounding buildings hosted the Pomeranian Exhibition of Industry, Crafts and Trade. It attracted more
than a thousand exhibitors and 120,000 visitors between July and
September of that year. The event is commemorated by a brick arch.
decorative plaque with a broken rose was
statues of composers and virtuosos (F. Chopin,
installed in the park. It commemorates the
I. Paderewski, S. Moniuszko, H. Wieniawski,
death of fifty secondary school pupils from
G. Bacewicz).
the Male Secondary School, functioning
There are also several trees designated as
during the interwar period, who were killed
national natural landmarks seen in the park, including a black poplar, alnus cordata, red horse-chestnut, and pedunculate oak. Going through the park, we reach Mickiewicza
Avenue
and
head
to
Weyssenhoffa Square. The corner is occupied by the former Botanical Garden (7), which was opened in 1930 and designed by Marian Güntzel, director of the Municipal Gardens. Botanical Garden in Niemcewicza Street
The garden was surrounded with fence and
139
April and late autumn, the Park is open to the public through its main entrance at the corner of Niemcewicza Street and Weysenhoffa Street. In winter, the park can be accessed only from the Kazimierz Wielki University. Now, we can choose either of two options for a further walk. We can continue our trip to the Wincenty Witos Park in the city centre (Option I) or to Myślęcinek, which is the biggest park in St. Vincent de Paul Basilica Minor
Poland (Option II).
divided into the following departments: systematic, biological, crop plants, and
Option I:
ornamental plants. The latter featured a
Going out through the main exit of the
rectangular square, in the middle of which
Botanical Garden, we head to St Vincent de
was a sundial mounted on a raised platform,
Paul Basilica Minor, whose dome towers
with small statues of girls in the corners,
over this part of the city. We take the wide
depicting the seasons. A bas-relief map of
Ossolińskich Avenue, outlined in 1903 and
Bydgoszcz could be seen in the southern part of the square, on the fence wall. In 1995,
Did you know that...
the Botanical Garden was designated as a
T he Oak Lane of Honour is located
national natural landmark. It was handed over to the Kazimierz Wielki University in 1999. These days, the garden has more than 300 specimens of trees and shrubs, featuring unique and relict varieties. Foreign species
in Ossolińskich Avenue. Some of the trees are dedicated to such
notable people as Pope John Paul II, painter and graphic artist Leon Wyczółkowski, writer Tadeusz
Nowakowski, and cryptologist Ma-
originate primarily from Asia and North
rian Rejewski.
America, but there are also trees and shrubs
lined with oaks, heading to its crossing with
from the Mediterranean regions, including
9 Markwarta Street. Ossolińskich Avenue
North Africa. Half of the plantings come from
features the Oak Lane of Honour. A magnolia
Europe. The garden has fifteen varieties of
(natural landmark), which is one of the most
trees and shrubs that are under protection
magnificent and oldest in Bydgoszcz, grows
(including shrubby birch, dwarf birch,
at 12 Ossolińskich Avenue. On the left side, we
mezereon, Swiss stone pine, European dwarf
take a look at the narrow Szymanowskiego
cherry, and European bladdernut). Between
Street (8) shaded with Swedish whitebeams
140
Sightseeing routes | Green Bydgoszcz (the tree alley is a natural landmark). Now we face the Wincenty Witos Park (9), established in the 1950’s on the site of a Protestant cemetery (which is commemorated by an obelisk erected in 2007). The park features some impressive old trees. Some of the most prominent specimens include the city’s biggest chestnut, 540 cm in circumference (a natural landmark), very rare catalpa bignonioides with beautiful leaves, and another pedunculate oak designated as a natural landmark. In 2013, a hornbeam alley
Did you know that... According to the original concept,
the Jan Kochanowski Park was
supposed to be part of the garden
district designed in the early 20th century (p. 108). The romanticism of the design was highlighted by the location of the park between Goethego
Street (presently 20 Stycznia 1920
Street) and Schillera Street (presently Paderewskiego Street).
was planted. A bust of the patron (made by Witold Marciniak) was erected in the southern part of the park in 1984. A band shell, built in 1956, is seen in the middle of the park. Option II: We go back by Mickiewicza Avenue to Gdańska Street, which we can do either by walking or taking a tram, heading towards the “Myślęcinek” Forest Park of Culture and Recreation (10). The park was created in stages from 1972. This recreation and park zone was
141
designed by engineers Aleksander Pietrzak and Edward Bartman. It was incorporated into the city limits of Bydgoszcz in 1977. These days it is the biggest municipal park in Poland, stretching over 830 hectares. More than half of the park features woods with pine trees, lindens, oaks, hornbeams, and beeches. Hiking and jogging paths, Nordic walking trails, biking and inline skating trails crisscross the area. A ski slope with a lift is open in winter. Forest clearings encourage relaxing and picnicking. The varied topography is conducive to horseback riding (an equestrian
Did you know that... From the Middle Ages to the Second
World War, the village of Myślęcinek was part of a nobleman’s estate. A mill and an inn were operating here
from the 18th century; a distillery was
opened
in
the
mid-19th
century, which in 1861 was turned into a brewery with a restaurant.
Myślęcinek beer enjoyed great popularity. T he brewery was closed
in 1945. Its brick ruin can be seen
to this day at the corner of Gdańska and Konna Streets.
centre has been active in the park since 1982). The eastern part of the park is occupied by
Outside the trail:
the Polish Fauna Garden, featuring a mini-
A total of 96 national natural landmarks
zoo, aquarium and terrarium. The garden
can be found in Bydgoszcz. Some of these
has such animal species as European bison,
landmarks grow in the city centre, including:
fallow deer, lynx, wolf, raven, eagle, and
ÂÂ
falcon. In the valley of the Struga Myślęcińska, dammed into a number of cascades, a vast, 60-hectare Botanical Garden was established
Street
ÂÂ ÂÂ
in 1983. It is divided into zones corresponding with various climates. It also features a rock
Ginkgo at 2 Gimnazjalna Street Tree of heaven in Jagiellońska Street, in front of the Regional Office
ÂÂ
garden. There are educational trails, including a special trail for the blind. Myriad tourist trails
Silver maple at 1 Mikołaja Kopernika
Ginkgo at the corner of Jagiellońska and Konarskiego Streets
ÂÂ
“Bartek” Oak, which should be
run through the park in Myślęcinek, including
mentioned here, despite the fact that
the Brda Trail and S. Meysner Tourist Trail. It is
it doesn’t grow in the city centre, but
also the starting place of the Jeremi Przybora
is the oldest tree in Bydgoszcz, dating
Tourist Trail. We end our “green walk” in this
back over 500 years. It grows in the
beautiful area. We can go back to the city
proximity of the crossing of Toruńska
centre from Myślęcinek by a tram or bus.
and Sporna Streets. A walk through the Park on the Bydgoszcz Canal ( p. 77).
142
Sightseeing routes | Green Bydgoszcz
143
144
Bydgoszcz environs Żurski Reservoir
BY DGOSZCZ POZNAJ ENV IRONS BY DGOSZCZ 145
Ostromecko 147 Koronowo 149 Beaches and bathing waters 150 Chełmno 153 Grudziądz 154 Inowrocław 156 Żnin and its environs 158 Ciechocinek 159
146
Włocławek 161
Toruń 151
Bydgoszcz environs | Ostromecko building houses a restaurant with a hotel. In the west, the Palace is adjoined by vast terraces (ca. 1912), heading straight to a
17 km
szcz e Bydgo from th ntre city ce
Ostromecko
19th-century garden, designed in the English style by garden architect Peter Joseph Lenné. Now we head towards the Old Palace, which is located far in the garden. The present structure dates from the mid-18th century, when the previous nobleman’s manor house was expanded by the Mostowski family. The palace, built in the Warsaw rococo style, features a collection of 18th- and 19thcentury pianos collected by a distinguished
About 17 km from the city centre of
citizen of Bydgoszcz, Andrzej Szwalbe, whose
Bydgoszcz, towards Dąbrowa Chełmińska,
memorial chamber is in the building. The
is the Ostromecko Palace and Park (9
windows of the palace and the terrace outside
Bydgoska Street). The New Palace was
the building offer a picturesque view of the
erected in the classicist style in 1832-1849
Italian garden stretching below, as well as the
(to the design of Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s
Vistula and its old riverbed.
studio), commissioned by the then owner of
The south-western part of the palace
Ostromecko, Jakub Martin Schoenborn. The
park features the mausoleum of the
main building is joined from the south by a
Schoenborn-Alvensleben family, the owners
neo-baroque annex, featuring the Hunting
of Ostromecko for many years. The Palace and
Palace (1891-1892), and from the north – by
Park, administered by the city of Bydgoszcz,
the Ballroom added in 1905. These days, the
is an important cultural and entertainment
Did you know that... T he legend of the golden jaw dates back to the origins of Ostromecko, when the local estate was the property of a knight. A horse saved the life
of one of the owners of Ostromecko during a battle. Unfortunately, the
animal’s jaw was injured during this fight. T he injury was serious enough to make eating impossible. T his time, the knight saved his beloved horse
by getting him a golden jaw. After its death, the animal was buried on the site that is presently occupied by the park. To this day, no one has been
able to find the place in which the owner buried his brave companion with its golden jaw.
147
New Palace in Ostromecko
Did you know that... In 1894, William II, Emperor of Germany arrived at Ostromecko on
the occasion of the opening of the
Fordon
Bridge.
During
that
time, the Emperor was a guest of Albrecht
Alvensleben
(1848-1928),
the owner of the local estate. T he
history of Albrecht’s descendants
is very unique. His eldest son, Jo-
achim Martin (1877-1969), the heir of Ostromecko of many years, accep-
centre of the city and the entire region of Kujawsko-Pomorskie Voivodeship. The Municipal Centre for Culture in Bydgoszcz organizes numerous vernissages, exhibitions and music concerts in the palace. In the immediate proximity to the Ostromecko Palace and Park, is the Parish Church of St. Nicholas, Stanislaus and John the Baptist. The place of worship was built in
ted the new Polish authorities after
the Gothic style in 1630. The church tower
very friendly relations with the
then owner of Ostromecko, Governor of Po-
the F irst World War and maintained
Poles. He initiated construction of the “Freedom Monument” in Ostromecko commemorating the 10th
dates from 1764, when it was rebuilt by the merania, Paweł Mostowski (his initials are seen on the flag of the church spire). The
anniversary of Poland regaining
baroque interior features a Gothic statue of
World War, he spent several years
Ostromecko has many other interesting sites
independence. During the Second in concentration camps, where he was sent at the request of his elder son Albrecht Werner, member
St Mary and Child, and a Pieta. In addition, that date from the period when the estate was the property of the Alvensleben fami-
of SS and Selbstschutz, respon-
ly, including buildings of an old post office,
Joachim’s younger son Ludolf, cal-
station dating from the late 19th century,
sible for the death of many Poles. led Lulu, was well liked and formed
a nice chapter in the history of Ostromecko.
148
hospital, stagecoach trading post, a railway and a brickyard (these days, the premises of the old brickyard are occupied by the Mine-
Bydgoszcz environs | Koronowo ral Water Production Plant). The first infor-
Marien-Quelle. During the Second World
mation about the Ostromecko water dates
War, the water from Ostromecko, produced
from the 16th century. Extraction of mineral
for the needs of the Wehrmacht, was sent to,
water from the local spring began in 1894.
among other places, Africa, where the Ger-
Until the outbreak of the First World War,
mans fought fierce battles with the British.
the water from the Maria Spring was called
landmarks. The most prominent of them is
from 25 km zcz s Bydgo ntre e c city
Koronowo
the old Cistercian monastery, which now houses a prison. The old monastery church (initially a collegiate church, and presently a basilica minor) is an example of early Gothic monumental architecture (25 Bydgoska Street). At the turn of the 18th century its interior was rebuilt in the baroque style. New furnishings and high quality artworks were added as well.
Koronowo is a town with a deep-rooted
Other historic sites that are worth visiting
and rich history, situated in a picturesque valley
include St Andrew’s Church dating from the
of the River Brda, 25 km north of Bydgoszcz.
late 16th century (Farna Street), the Town Hall
Its defensive features as well as economic potential were noticed by the Cistercians. Frequent raids of the Teutonic Knights on their original seat in Byszewo forced the friars to move their monastery to a safer place, which is today’s Koronowo. In 1368, King Casimir the Great chartered in Kruszwica the local settlement as a town. The name Koronowo dates back to the first half of
Cistercian Abbey in Koronowo
the 15th century and derives from the name of
built in the first half of the 19th century (1 Plac
the monastery, which was called Corona Marie
Zwycięstwa Street), an old synagogue (Szkolna
by the friars.
Street), the Jewish cemetery (Kolejowa Street),
Koronowo is known for its historic
and a watermill dating from the mid-19th
149
century (Nakielska Street). Re-enactment of
and other attractions. The area is a paradise for
the 1410 Battle of Koronowo is organized
waterfowl such as ducks, common moorhens,
every year between the end of July and the
swans, harriers, great crested grebes, cranes,
beginning of August.
grey herons, falcons, and white-tailed eagles.
The famous painter and graphic artist
The entire reservoir is surrounded by coniferous
Leon Wyczółkowski (1852-1936) lived and
woods. In the autumn, the forests around the
worked in Gościeradz, a village near Koronowo.
reservoir attract throngs of mushroom hunters.
The artist and his wife are buried in a rural cemetery of Wtelno, which is located 10 km
More information:
away from Koronowo.
Tourist Information Centre
In 1956-1961, the Koronowo Reservoir
pl. Zwycięstwa 22, 86-010 Koronowo
was established, which is popular among
tel. +48 52 382 46 53
tourists who come here for sailing, kayaking
info-tur@um.koronowo.pl
after the village of Brzoza. No public transport
Beaches and bathing waters
is offered to Piecki, whereas Chmielniki can be accessed by a train or PKS bus (approx. 20 minutes). Some of the offerings available on site include kayak, boat and pedal boat hire, and small fast food restaurants.
Pieczyska Bathing Beach Pieczyska bathing beach with a lifeguard on duty is situated about 30 km north of
During hot summer days there are
Bydgoszcz. The Koronowo Reservoir is an
plenty of opportunities for chilling out on one of the many lakes that can be found in the Bydgoszcz area.
Piecki and Chmielniki bathing beaches The bathing beaches are located on Lake Jezuickie, 10 km away from Bydgoszcz. Driving to Inowrocław, we take the left turn
150
Koronowo Reservoir, beach in Pieczyska
Bydgoszcz environs | Toruń attractive site for tourism and recreation.
is offered by PKS and private buses. Access
Pieczyska has a well-developed offer of tourist
to the “Julia” bathing beach is paid; some
facilities, including water equipment hire,
of the amenities offered on site include a
bouncy castles, roundabout for children, and
beach volleyball court, tennis court and water
a host of eateries. Sporting and cultural events
equipment hire (kayaks, rowing boats, pedal
are organized during the vacation season in
boats), and an attended car park.
Pieczyska. PKS and private buses offer access to the Koronowo Reservoir.
Samociążek Bathing Beach
Borówno Bathing Beach The bathing beach is located on the lake with the same name, 10 km from Bydgoszcz
The bathing beach is located on Lakes
on the route to Gdańsk. Local attractions
Czarne and Białe, which were combined as a
include a playground, beach volleyball courts,
result of establishing the Koronowo Reservoir,
campsite, RV site, and changing room. Paid
about 20 km away from Bydgoszcz. Access
admission.
View of the Old Town in Toruń
border of the two historical regions of Poland
47 km from Bydgo szcz city centr e
– Pomerania and Kuyavia – runs through the
Toruń
contributed to the development of a
city. Toruń was founded by the Teutonic Knights in 1233. Access to the Vistula prospering river port in the city. Thanks to extensive trade relations, the city grew at a fast pace. In the 19th century, thanks to its
Toruń is a city with a population of
strategic location, the city was surrounded
200,000, situated on the River Vistula. The
by a ring of Prussian fortifications. A dozen or
151
so large forts have remained to this day; one
monument commemorating the astronomer
of them is open to the public (86 Chrobrego
is seen in the Old Town’s Market Square. Another symbol of the city is Toruń
Street). In 1997, the Toruń Old Town was designated as a UNESCO World
gingerbread, baked for centuries according to the traditional recipe. We invite you to visit the local museum, which shows
Heritage Site. Some of the factors that contributed to this designation
the secrets of gingerbread
include the medieval urban
making and allows visitors to bake their own gingerbread
layout of the Old Town that has remained unchanged
(Live Gingerbread Museum, 9
for centuries and a host of
Rabiańska Street).
historic sites. The Toruń Old Town
The deep-rooted history
is a gem of Gothic architecture.
of the city is reflected in
Some of the most impressive
valuable collections of the
landmarks include the Cathedral
local museums. The City Hall
of St Johns (which features
displays examples of Gothic
the baptismal font in which
art and products made
Nicolaus Copernicus was
by early craftsmen. Small galleries in the Old Town offer
christened), the Church
unique souvenirs.
of the Blessed Virgin
Today’s Toruń is a venue
Mary, and the Church
of innumerable events,
of St James, regarded
concerts and exhibitions. It hosts
as the most beautiful in Toruń. One of the most prominent historic
international music, theatre and film festivals.
buildings is the Gothic City Hall. The city
It is also a major college town. Young students
gates and fortified walls, dating back several
full of energy create the unique atmosphere
hundred years, are also examples of Gothic
of the city. A plethora of restaurants and
architecture. The distinct Leaning Tower has
cafes, varied accommodation and numerous
become one of the symbols of the city.
attractions make Toruń a must-see tourist
Toruń is also the hometown of the
stop.
great astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus. In order to find out more about his life,
More information:
we recommend a visit to his family house,
Tourist Information in Toruń
featuring an exhibition dedicated to his life
Rynek Staromiejski 25, 87-100 Toruń
and achievements (15/17 Kopernika Street). A
tel. +48 56 621 09 31
152
www.it.torun.pl
Bydgoszcz environs | Chełmno incorporated by the Teutonic Order in 1233.
52 km ydgoszcz B from entre c city
Chełmno
Until the 18th century, Chełmno served as a legal and architectural model for chartering 225 towns (such as Warsaw, Gdańsk, Toruń, and Wadowice, to name but a few) and over 1,364 villages and settlements. Chełmno, thanks to the medieval walls and historic sites, is called the “Polish Carcassonne” or the “Little Kraków”. In addition, the great value of the historical old town of Chełmno can be confirmed by its registration on the List
Chełmno is a picturesque town on the River Vistula stretching across nine hills, the
of Heritage Landmarks of the Presidents of Poland in 2005.
capital of the historical Chełmno Land. The
The biggest attractions of Chełmno
first written record of Chełmno dates from
are its historic sites dating from its heyday
1065. The town is known for the Chełmno
(13th-14th centuries). The town features a
Law (the document contained parts of the
preserved, chessboard layout of medieval
Magdeburg, Flemish and Hungarian laws)
streets and 2,270 m long Gothic city walls, Bird’s eye view of Chełmno
153
serving as the most outstanding examples
Valentine’s Day of Chełmno. Due to this
of defensive architecture in Europe. The
reason, Chełmno is called the Town of Lovers
heart of the town is its market square, the
and the Town of Love. Every year in February,
centre of which is occupied by the “gem of
the town attracts lovers, offering to them such
Pomerania’s Renaissance architecture” – the
local delicacies as lovage buns.
Gothic-Renaissance Town Hall. It has the
Visiting the Chełmno churches, we
model of a medieval unit of measure, known
recommend climbing the 60-metre high
as the “Chełmno Bar”, 4.35 m long, seen on
tower of the Fara Church (Franciszkańska
one of the walls of the Town Hall. These days,
Street), visiting the crypt of Benedictine
it houses the Museum of Chełmno Land.
prioress Magdalena Mortęska (1554-1631) in
Chełmno, which is one of the towns of
the local convent (40 Dominikańska Street), as
the European Route of Brick Gothic (www.
well as the treasury and monastery cellars. The
eurob.org), features an old Cistercian-
Church of the Holy Spirit (Toruńska Street) has
Benedictine monastery and as many as six
a wide variety of knights’ armour.
Gothic churches. One of them is the Fara Church of the Assumption of the Blessed
More information:
Virgin Mary, which has the relics of St
Chełmno Tourist Information
Valentine. On the Feast of St Valentine,
Rynek 28, 86-200 Chełmno
celebrated on February 14, the town hosts
tel. +48 56 686 21 04 www.chelmno.pl
Grudziądz sits on the right bank of the River Vistula, in the northern part of Kujawsko-
Grudziądz from 75 km zcz s Bydgo e centr city
Pomorskie Voivodeship. The city is a natural “gateway” to the Tuchola Forest, Chełmno Land and the Iława Lake District. The oldest historic sites of Grudziądz are its earliest brick buildings, erected during the reign of the Teutonic Knights, including the castle ruins, the Basilica of St Nicholas (1 Kościelna Street), and the city walls with
154
Bydgoszcz environs | Grudziądz
View of the Old Town in Grudziądz
the Water Gate (7 Wodna Street). A group
century. Such forts as Mała and Wielka Księża
of distinct, monumental granaries, creating
Góra, Fort Nowa Wieś, Parski, Tarpno, Dąb, Gać,
a unique panoramic view across the Vistula,
Lasek Miejski and Strzemięcin were erected
date back to the late Middle Ages. The turn of
at that time. This expansive development
the 18th century is remembered in Grudziądz
of the city fortification system “backfired”
for three beautiful monasteries, namely the
on Grudziądz during the liberation battles
convent of the Benedictine nuns (3/5 Wodna
in winter 1945. Grudziądz was turned into
Street), the monastery of the Order of the
a city-fortress, the object of battles between
Reformati (10/22 Wybickiego Street) and the
the German and Russian armies that
Jesuit monastery (1 Ratuszowa Street).
continued for six weeks. In 1945, nearly three-
During the partitions of Poland, Friedrich
quarters of the city was damaged. These days,
II of Prussia made the decision to build
almost all forts are open to the public. In
a citadel in Grudziądz. In a short period,
addition, every Saturday between May and
a modern and the biggest fortress of Poland
September as well as May 3 and November
was constructed, featuring 5 bastions,
11 the citadel, which is administered by the
4 ravelins and 32 kilometres of underground
army, is open to visitors.
galleries. The rapid growth of military craft
One of the attractions of Grudziądz
and construction of a bridge over the Vistula
is
Europe’s
led to expansion of the fortress in the late 19th
closed
in
only a
graduation
pyramid
tower
(Geotermia
155
Grudziądz,
Warszawska
Street,
www.geotermiagrudziadz.pl).
36
Thanks
to air circulation in the closed system, concentration of healthful elements is so high that - according to balneology specialists one hour of inhalation in the pyramid equals the daily absorption of iodine at the seaside. An attraction for families with children is the Mega Park, a family entertainment park situated on Lake Rudnickie (Zielona Street).
Tram running through the Market Square in Grudziądz
It comprises Fairy Tale Land, Jurassic Park,
More information:
Flintstones’ Land, a Zoo, and Safari. However,
Tourist Information
the most popular among the youngest
Rynek 3-5, 86-300 Grudziądz
visitors is the western city called Kansas City.
tel. +48 56 461 23 18 www.it.gdz.pl
whose curative power has been used for many years. An exceptional local microclimate
Inowrocław
the from m k 0 4 e centr z city c z dgos of By
is conducive to treatment of hypertension, upper respiratory diseases, thyroid, and skin allergies. It is also used in early cardiac rehabilitation. The spa part of the city is created by the Saline Park situated on over 85 hectares. It features a graduation tower, the main facility of the spa, which was opened in 2001. It is the second largest in Poland, just after the one in Ciechocinek. Brine is conveyed via pumps to
156
Inowrocław is a city situated in the centre
the highest level of the graduation tower (9
of the region of Western Kuyavia, some 40 km
m); then it flows down through blackthorn
from Bydgoszcz.
branches, contributing to the development
Inowrocław is described as a “city on salt”,
of saline aerosol in the surroundings of
due to its unique location on salt deposits,
the graduation tower. During the interwar
Bydgoszcz environs | Inowrocław period, Inowrocław was called the “gem of
Christian faith, which according to legends
spas”. It attracted health resort visitors from
were supposed to protect the faithful against
both home and abroad. Some of the spa
evil powers.
amenities located in the park include the
We also recommend visiting the Jan
pump room, offering waters extracted in
Kasprowicz Museum (33 Solankowa Street),
Inowrocław, mineral “Inowrocławianka” water
where we can trace back the history of salt
and curative water called “Jadwiga”; the Palm
mining in Inowrocław. Other attractions
House and the Kuyavian cottage with many
include a thermal spring (with chloride-
species of exotic plants, beautiful fragrant
sodium water extracted at a depth of 491
gardens, papal gardens, a sandy beach, tennis
m) and SPA facilities (Harmonia SPA, 107
courts, outdoor fitness centre, a site for BBQ
Świętokrzyska Street, Medical SPA, 23
gatherings, and trails that attract throngs of
Wilkońskiego Street, and Anielska Grota in
runners, rollerbladers and bikers.
the Bast Hotel, 35/37 Królowej Jadwigi Street).
The most prominent historic landmark of Inowrocław is the Basilica Minor of the Most
More information:
Holy Name of Mary, built at the turn of the
Municipal Tourist Information Centre
13th century (9 Bpa. A. Laubitza Street). The
ul. Królowej Jadwigi 3, 88-100 Inowrocław
exterior walls of the basilica, on its northern
tel. +48 52 355 53 71
side, feature bas-reliefs of devils, animals
biuro@inlot.com.pl
and people, symbolizing the basic truths of
Graduation towers in Solankowy Park of Inowrocław
157
from 42 km szcz Bydgo e centr city
Żnin and its environs
taking place in September attract crowds of archaeology and history enthusiasts. Another attraction in the Żnin area is the village of Wenecja with castle ruins dating from the late 14th century, which used to serve as a residence of Nakło castellan Mikołaj Nałęcz, called the Bloody Devil of Wenecja. There is also the Narrow-Gauge Railway Museum. A ride by a narrow-gauge railway on the Żnin-Wenecja-Biskupin-Gąsawa route
Żnin is a charming town, situated about 42 km from Bydgoszcz in the historical region of Pałuki, whose origins date back 750 years. Its symbol is the 15th-century tower of the Town Hall. It houses part of the exhibition of the Museum of Pałuki Land, dedicated to the history of Żnin. The remaining displays are presented in the historical building of the Municipal Office, at 1 Wolności Square.
Palace in Lubostroń
is an unforgettable experience. There is also an impressive, classicist palace in Lubostroń (19 km from Żnin), an
Only 13 km from Żnin is Biskupin,
old residence of the Skórzewski family.
Poland’s best known archaeological reserve. It
The palace offers an interesting tour of its
offers a look at a Neolithic settlement, showing
interiors, exhibition and concerts, which are
how rural folk used to live in the period of
organized regularly in this venue. The palace
Lusatian culture and during the early Middle
is surrounded by an English-style park that
Ages. This place teems with life almost all year
invites you to stroll.
long. In addition, the Archaeological Festivals
On offer for children is Zaurolandia – Dinosaur Park in Rogowo (15 km from Żnin) and a western city called Silverado City in Bożejewiczki (6 km away from Żnin). To sacred art aficionados we recommend visiting the churches of Pałuki. Particularly attractive is the wooden Church of St Nicholas in Gąsawa (11 km from Żnin) dating from the
Archaeological Museum in Biskupin
158
17th century, featuring baroque murals in its
Bydgoszcz environs | Ciechocinek interior. On a hot summer day, we can chill out
More information:
on one of the many lakes of the Pałuki region
Tourist Information in Żnin
or go to the diving centre in the Piechcin
Plac Wolności 20, 88-400 Żnin
quarry (30 km from Żnin).
tel. +48 52 303 14 81 www.it.znin.pl
Ciechocinek is one of the best known and most beautiful lowland spa towns. It is situated in Kuyavia, about 77 km from
Ciechocinek the from m k 77 e centr z city c z dgos of By
Bydgoszcz. Mineral water deposits, great climate and beautiful scenery are some of the attractions of the town covered in greenery. The most recognizable buildings of the spa are its wooden graduation towers, which are used to evaporate water from brine. They offer a unique, curative microclimate. Health resort visitors who come to Ciechocinek recuperate not only Graduation towers in Ciechocinek
159
thanks to medical treatments. Meetings at
Ciechocinek is also a festival town.
the famous pedestrian street of Ciechocinek,
Some of the most popular events include
walks alongside flower beds, and moments of relaxation in one of several Ciechocinek parks are some of the best therapies. The town specializes in the treatment of limb and rheumatic diseases, circulatory diseases, respiratory disorders, nervous system diseases, and women’s diseases. It is one of only several spas in Poland where the number of places for health resort visitors has been increasing in recent years. Flower carpets in Zdrojowy Park of Ciechocinek
Did you know that... Nearly 300,000 flower seedlings are planted every year in order to make the town more beautiful.
the
Opera-Operetta
Festival
(August),
Polish Tenors’ Gala (July), Disabled Youth Song Festival “Artistic Impressions” (July), Kuyavia and Dobrzyń Land Folklore Festival (June/July),
National
Firefighters’ Song
Festival (June), Regional Brass Band Festival Ciechocinek is called a garden town.
(July), the “Blues without Barriers” Festival
Its green areas comprise three spa parks –
(September), and the International Festival
Zdrojowy, Tężniowy and Sosnowy. They are
of Roma Song and Culture (July).
supplemented by the famous flower beds, myriad squares, greens and smaller parks
More information:
surrounding sanatoriums, and avenues of
Office for Promotion of the Town
trees alongside streets. Reminders of the
ul. Zdrojowa 2b, 87-720 Ciechocinek
old spa include unique examples of wooden
tel. +48 54 416 01 60
architecture – with the wooden Summer
www.ciechocinek.pl
Theatre (1891) at 3 Kopernika Street. Other places worth visiting in Ciechocinek include the Historical President’s Mansion and the information-education centre (3 Wojska Polskiego Street).
160
Bydgoszcz environs | Włocławek the oldest cities in Poland. During the early years of the reign of the Piast dynasty, the
m m fro 113 k y centre it the c oszcz dg y of B
Włocławek
city, which was founded by Duke Vladislav at the outlet of the River Zgłowiączka to the Vistula, was regarded as one of the gathering sites of the Polish army of the greatest strategic importance. The main trade waterway ran through the area. In 1123, Włocławek became a bishopric. The city is associated with the famous faience factories, which operated from the 19th century. Some of the historic landmarks of Włocławek that are worth visiting include the Cathedral Basilica
In the south-eastern part of Kujawsko-Po-
(7 Kopernika Street) dating from the 14th
morskie Voivodeship, on the River Vistula,
and 15th centuries, the monastery of the
we find Włocławek, a city that in the past
Order of the Reformati in Wolności Square,
was called the “capital of Kuyavia”, one of
and the Bishop’s Palace (2 Gdańska Street).
Bird’s eye view of Włocławek
161
hosts boat races, which are a perfect opportunity for sporting competitions. Travelling on the local waterways, in the area of the city, we can notice that Włocławek is a very green city. It is surrounded by woods, scarps of the Kulin Reserve, and big-city chimneys, in which migrating falcons live. Tourists are charmed by the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Włocławek
greenery of the historical
One of the most important places associated
Henryk Sienkiewicz Muni-
with Włocławek is the local dam, which also
cipal Park and beautiful flower beds. The city
reminds one of a sad story. Here, Father Je-
borders the Gostynin-Włocławek Landscape
rzy Popiełuszko died a martyr’s death in the
Park and a host of lakes, including Lake Ra-
river.
kutowskie, recognized as a European water-
Water enthusiasts will be charmed by the
fowl sanctuary.
beautiful Włocławek Reservoir, which is an attractive place for playing water sports, fishing, hiking, biking, mushroom hunting, horseback riding, and other outdoor activi-
More information:
ties. The Włocławek stretch of the reservoir is
Włocławek Tourist Information
one of the most picturesque sites. Its natural
ul. Warszawska 11/13, 87-800 Włocławek
course is enjoyed by yachtsmen, sailboaters,
tel. +48 54 411 27 57
and windsurfers. The Włocławek Reservoir
www.it.wloclawek.pl
162
Bydgoszcz environs | Kujawsko-Pomorskie Voivodeship
163
Jan Kochanowski Park
164
Practical Information
Practical INF ORMACJ E Information PRAKT YCZNE 165
Tourist Information 167 Where to sleep? 168 Where to eat? 172 Pubs/Clubs 178
Entertainment 180 For children 182
Tourist equipment rentals 184 Shopping 186 Tour operators 188
166
Practical Information | Tourist Information
Tourist Information
Bydgoszcz Information Centre 2 Batorego St. 85-104 Bydgoszcz
Tourist Information is the place where
Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. Sept.-May 9-18 9-18 9-18 9-18 9-18 10-16 10-16
we can start our adventure with Bydgoszcz. It
Mon. Tue. 9-19 9-19
Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. June-Aug. 9-19 9-19 9-19 10-16 10-16
offers guides, books and souvenirs to tourists.
tel. + 48 52 340 45 50
It provides information and offers bikes for
www.visitbydgoszcz.pl
hire. There are colouring books with images
bci@visitbydgoszcz.pl
of Bydgoszcz and games for children.
During the summer season, there is also a seasonal tourist information centre in the old tram at 43 Długa Street.
Historical tram in Długa Street.
167
There are many places of accommodation in Bydgoszcz. The city offers many lodging opportunities, starting from five-star hotels,
Where to sleep?
through small hotels and suites, to guesthouses.
Brda Hotel*** 94 Dworcowa St. tel. +48 52 585 01 00, www.hotelbrda.com.pl
Bohema Hotel***** 9 Konarskiego St. tel. +48 52 560 06 02, www.hotelbohema.pl
10 min
/ 20 min
City Hotel**** 6 3 Maja St.
Campanile Hotel*** 59 Jagiellońska St.
tel. +48 52 325 25 00, www.city-hotel.pl
tel. +48 52 586 20 00, www.campanile-bydgoszcz.pl
20 min
10 min Holiday Inn**** 36 Grodzka St.
Kuźnia Hotel*** 67 Gdańska St.
tel.+48 52 347 70 00, www.holiday.hgb.com.pl
tel. +48 52 345 71 43, www.klubkuznia.pl
5
min
/
15 min
Hotel Pod Orłem (Under the Eagle Hotel)**** 13 Gdańska St., tel. +48 52 583 05 30, www.hotelpodorlem.pl
7
min
Słoneczny Młyn Hotel**** 96 Jagiellońska St. tel. +48 52 561 31 00, www.sloneczny.eu
30 min
168
Room in the Bohema Hotel
Practical Information | Where to sleep? Maraton Hotel*** 13 Powstańców Warszawy St.
Chemik Hotel** 48 Wojska Polskiego St.
tel. +48 52 341 12 11, www.hotelmaraton.pl
tel. +48 52 374 89 13, www.hotel-chemik.pl
40 min
10 min
Pałac Hotel***10 Konna St.
Elda Hotel** 26 Fordońska St.
tel. +48 52 328 00 12, www.palac.com.pl
tel. + 48 52 342 98 55, www.hotelelda.pl
50 min
7
min
Park Hotel*** 3 Wrocławska St.
Focus Hotel** 1 Modrzewiowa St.
tel. +48 52 376 36 26
tel. +48 52 340 17 66, www.hotelfocus.com.pl
www.parkhotel.bydgoszcz.pl
/
25 min
40 min
Pozyton Hotel*** 2 I. Romanowskiej St.
Hawana Hotel** 29 Boczna St.
tel. +48 52 329 05 00, www.hotelpozyton.eu
tel. +48 52 342 29 41, www.hotelhawana.pl
10 min
15 min Agat & Spa Hotel** 17 Nad Torem St.
Ikar Hotel** 32 Szubińska St.
tel. +48 52 327 70 66, www.agat.bydgoszcz.pl
tel. +48 52 366 80 00, www.hotel-ikar.pl
8
45 min
min
Akor Hotel** 1 Ludwikowo Str.
Logan Hotel** 8b Siedlecka St.
tel.+48 52 518 50 20, www.akorhotel.eu
tel.+48 52 327 84 01, www.hotel-logan.com.pl
45 min
35 min Amelia Hotel** 1 Energetyczna St.
Pegaz Hotel** 10a M. Skłodowskiej-Curie St.
tel. +48 52 372 85 94, www.hotel-amelia.pl
tel.+48 52 341 51 15, www.pegaz.bydgoszcz.pl
15 min
30 min
169
Pomorski Hotel** 112 Fordońska St.
Zawisza Hotel** 163 Gdańska St.
tel. +48 52 375 85 45, www.hotelpomorski.pl
tel. +48 52 588 09 00, www.hotel-zawisza.pl
10 min
40 min
Ratuszowy Hotel** 37 Długa St. tel. +48 52 339 84 00, www.hotelratuszowy.com.pl
2
min
School Youth Shelter
Marina Bydgoszcz 2 Tamka St.
5 Sowińskiego St.
tel. +48 52 58 59 601
tel. +48 52 322 75 70, www.ssm.bydgoszcz.pl
www.przystanbydgoszcz.pl
5
25 min
min
Hostel in Gdańska Street 42 Gdańska St.
Dream of Bydgoszcz (Apartments)
tel. +48 519 177 668, hostelgdanska@wp.pl
13 Dworcowa St., tel. +48 505 438 484
15 min Merlin Hostel 7 Zygmunta Augusta St.
www.dreamofbydgoszcz.com
15 min Błonie Apartment 4/50 St. Okrzei St.
tel. +48 52 518 30 20, www.hostelmerlin.pl
20 min
tel. +48 516 630 188 www.apartamentblonie.pl
40 min
Hostel24 35a Lelewela St.
Villa Secesja 18 Gdańska St.
Tel. +48 52 346 78 35
tel. +48 52 376 42 30, www.villasecesja.pl
30 min
/
Rooms in Bydgoszcz 5 Sanatoryjna St.
PTTK Bydgoszcz Janowo Water Hostel
tel. +48 515 111 949
8 Biwakowa St., tel. +48 52 321 50 00
www.pokoje-bydgoszcz.pl
www.pttk.bydgoszcz.pl
15 min
170
7
min
20 min
Practical Information | Where to sleep? RV camping sites:
Zatoka Restaurant 6a Floriana St. tel. +48 52 322 12 23
Kamper Park Bydgoszcz 79 Żeglarska St.
www.zatoka.bydgoszcz.pl
10 min
tel. +48 501 340 669, www.kamperpark.pl
5
km
Rooms with bathrooms “Orbi”
Folwark Kujawski 155 Toruńska St.
17 Wczasowa St., tel. +48 602 740 584
tel. +48 669 323 033
30 min
www.splywy.bydgoszcz.pl
7
km
Student dormitories: KS Gwiazda 45 Bronikowskiego St.
Fordon, 12-14 Kaliskiego St.
tel. +48 52 379 78 01
tel. +48 52 340 87 92, www.utp.edu.pl
15 min
4
km
Błonie 9-9a Koszarowa St. tel. +48 52 374 90 91, www.utp.edu.pl
27 min
Room in Marina Bydgoszcz
171
During your sightseeing, we invite you to take advantage of the dining offer prepared by Bydgoszcz chefs, who enjoy showing off their culinary skills. Bydgoszcz restaurants offer cuisine from all over the world, including
Where to eat? Polish food:
regional delicacies and alcoholic beverages. Below, please find our list of restaurants offering the best food in the city centre.
Kummerówka, 14 Konna St tel. +48 503 161 264 www.karczmabydgoszcz.pl Meluzyna, 50 Gdańska St. tel. +48 52 327 42 05 www.restauracjameluzyna.pl Ogniem i Mieczem, 22 Ogińskiego St. tel. +48 52 341 41 26 www.ogniemimieczem.com
1921,14 Gdańska St.
Oranżeria (Villa Secesja), 18 Gdańska St.
tel. +48 52 583 06 01
tel. +48 52 376 42 30, www.villasecesja.pl
www.restauracja1921.pl Przy IV Śluzie (Park Hotel), 3 Wrocławska St. Gościniec Soplica, 181 Gdańska St.
tel. +48 52 376 36 26
tel. +48 52 328 06 21 www.gosciniecsoplica.pl
Pyszni i Szybcy, 15 Dworcowa St. tel. +48 600 851 166
Karczma Młyńska, 1 Mennica St. tel. +48 52 345 57 86
Stary Port, 13 Stary Port St.
www.karczmamlynska.com.pl
tel. +48 52 321 62 08, www.staryport13.pl
172
Practical Information | Where to eat? Za Piecem, 3 Mostowa St. tel.+48 52 320 65 07, www.zapiecem.pl Zatoka, 6a Floriana St. tel. +48 52 322 12 23 www.zatoka.bydgoszcz.pl
Dumpling and pancake houses: Manekin (pancake restaurant), 14 Focha St. tel. +48 52 349 39 76 www.manekin.pl Pod Aniołami (dumpling house),
Dairy bars: Bar Mleczny Dworcowy, 75 Dworcowa St. tel. +48 52 324 93 23 Familijny, 12 Dworcowa St. tel. +48 52 322 07 49 Kujavia, 35 Długa St. tel. +48 52 320 32 26
50 Pomorska St., tel. +48 52 349 57 57 www.pierogarnia-pod-aniolami.pl Stolnica Kujawska (dumpling house) 5 Grudziądzka St., tel. +48 52 341 20 58 www.stolnicakujawska.pl Ten Tego 15 Podwale St. tel. +48 52 320 86 62
www.restauracja-kujavia.pl Witrażowa, 34 Długa St. tel. +48 52 328 78 12
European cuisine:
3V6 (Hotel City), 6 3 Maja St. tel. +48 52 325 25 22 A nóż widelec, 5 Wolności Sq. tel. +48 781 982 616 Bar Tekla, 55 Gdańska St. Tel. +48 52 321 04 71, www.tekla.com.pl
173
Bolero (Holiday Inn), 36 Grodzka St.
Sowa, 4 Mostowa St. tel. +48 52 33 90 800
tel. +48 52 347 70 33
www.sowa-restauracja.pl
Czarny Diament, 9 Konarskiego St.
Tramway, 7 Józefa Weyssenhoffa Sq.
dinner in the dark, reservation required
tel. +48 788 896 039
tel. +48 52 560 06 02, www.hotelbohema.pl
www.tramway.bydgoszcz.pl
Jadłodajnia Mózg, 2 Parkowa St.
Villa Calvados, 3 Piotra Skargi St.
tel. +48 517 949 427
tel. +48 608 190 849 www.villacalvados-bydgoszcz.pl
Kuchnia, 4 Grodzka St. tel. +48 52 321 22 22
Warzelnia Piwa, 8 Poznańska St.
www.restauracjakuchnia.com.pl
tel. +48 517 762 197, www.warzelniapiwa.pl
Katarynka, 3 Niedźwiedzia St.
Weranda, 9 Konarskiego St.
tel. +48 52 320 30 95
tel. +48 52 349 51 52
www.katarynkabydgoszcz.pl
www.hotelbohema.pl
Kukuryku, 16 Jezuicka Str. tel. +48 52 551 30 70 Maestra, 5 Focha St. Tel. +48 52 325 16 51
Italian food:
www.restauracjamaestra.pl Na Piętrze, 3 Kręta St. tel. +48 52 322 15 74, www.na-pietrze.pl Oranżeria Restauracja, 3 Jana Kazimierza St. tel. +48 52 322 72 27 www.restauracjaoranzeria.pl Dolce Vita Pod Papugami, 1 Stanisława Staszica St.
2 Podwale St., tel. +48 52 321 57 57
tel. +48 52 320 37 29, www.podpapugami.pl
1 Fredry St., tel. +48 52 321 21 21 www.dolcevita.in
174
Practical Information | Where to eat? Gregorio, 7 Gdańska St.
Pizzeria Capri, 11 Niedźwiedzia St.
Tel. +48 52 331 00 00
Tel. +48 52 322 49 81
www.restauracjagregorio.pl
www.capribydgoszcz.pl
La Vista, 18 Gdańska St.
Pizzeria Soprano, 6 Dworcowa St.
tel. +48 52 376 42 30
Tel. +48 52 366 00 55
www.villasecesja.pl
www.soprano.bydgoszcz.pl
Papa Grande, 63 Długa St.
Ristorante del Mercato, 15-21 Stary Rynek St.
tel. +48 52 52 44 800
tel. +48 881 938 835
www.papagrande.pl
www.delmercato.pl
Japanese food: Kurkuma Sushi & Fusion Restaurant 1 Jagiellońska St. tel. +48 52 321 01 70, www.kurkuma.pl Nobo Sushi, 84 Jagiellońska St. tel. +48 723 614 389, www.nobosushi.pl Sushi Garden, 76 Toruńska St. tel. +48 52 342 12 20, www.sushi-garden.pl
Asian food:
Divali (Brew House), 8 Poznańska St. tel. +48 517 762 197, www.warzelniapiwa.pl Kuchnia Orientalna, 62 Długa St. tel. +48 52 385 85 54 www.saigon.bydgoszcz.pl Lotos, 109 Gdańska St. tel. +48 52 345 47 98, www.lotosbydgoszcz.pl
175
Rong Vang, 30 Jagiellońska St.
Ru Ba Ru, 27 Długa St.
tel. +48 52 345 42 36
tel. +48 796 100 801
www.rongvang.com.pl
www.rubaru.pl
Near East food:
Baalbek, 1 Magdzińskiego St. tel. +48 52 349 35 18 www.baalbek.pl Sphinx, 18 Magdzińskiego St. tel. +48 52 321 54 48 www.sphinx.pl
Greek food:
Greco, 12 Grodzka St. tel. +48 52 324 39 37 www.grecja.pl Pireus, 208 Gdańska St. tel. +48 52 371 09 84 www.pireus.com.pl
Mexican food: Mexico City, 8 Gimnazjalna St. tel. +48 506 277 108
American food:
52 City Diner, 24 Gdańska St. tel. +48 52 524 45 24 www.52city.pl Burger Park, 6 Gimnazjalna St. tel. +48 730 357 940
176
Practical Information | Where to eat?
CAFES Beyrouth, 22 Dworcowa St. tel. +48 52 385 80 15, www.beyrouthcafe.pl Costa, 39-47 Jagiellońska St. (Focus Mall) tel. +48 662 207 624, www.costacoffe.pl Cafe Kino, 32 Długa St. tel. +48 607 671 643, www.cafekino.pl Coffe Heven, 1 Jagiellońska St. (Drukarnia Fashion House) tel. +48 52 332 92 77, www.costacoffee.pl Asia Tea Room, 7 Wełniany Rynek St. tel. +48 52 348 70 93 www.herbaciarnia.e-lider.pl
Strefa, 11 Długa St. tel. +48 796 956 956
Landshaft, 6 Gimnazjalna St.
www.strefabydgoszcz.com.pl
tel. +48 503 952 334, www.lanshaft.pl Stara Szuflada, 10 Magdzińskiego St. “Choco” Chocolate House
tel. +48 667 960 251, www.stara-szuflada.com
7/2 Wełniany Rynek St. tel. +48 797 350 386, www.choco.e-lider.pl
Zapałka Coffee, 33 Długa St. tel. +48 603 942 578
Reggio Emilia, 1b Mostowa St. tel. +48 52 585 14 44
Zetka, 29 Gdańska St. tel. +48 52 321 10 51
Sowa 5 Mostowa St., tel. +48 693 994 439 65 Gdańska St., tel. +48 52 322 83 18 39 Jagiellońska St. (Focus Mall)
In addition to the places recommended by us,
www.cukierniasowa.pl
there is a myriad of other fast food restaurants and cafes.
177
The number of pubs has been increasing in the city. In the area of the Old Town and city centre there are a dozen or so pubs which offer not only beer, but also interesting, unique music and the opportunity of
Pubs/Clubs
178
making friends with the locals.
1138, 11 Wełniany Rynek St.
Estrada Stage Bar, 51 Dworcowa St.
tel. +48 796 697 111
tel. +48 510 193 810, www.estrada.bydgoszcz.pl
Amsterdam, 16 Stary Rynek St.
Jack, 65 Długa St.
tel. +48 888 719 719, www.amsterdam-pub.com.pl
tel. +48 52 372 98 81, www.kredenspub.pl
Awangarda, 21 Stary Port St.
Kancelaria, 32 Długa St
tel. +48 602 480 760, www.klubawangarda.pl
tel. +48 607 671 643
Barka, Solny Sq.
Kubryk, 3 Podwale St.
tel. +48 52 321 31 28
tel. +48 52 321 27 01, www.pubkubryk.pl
Barka Melody, 57/59 Toruńska St.
Kuźnia, 67 Gdańska St.
tel. +48 602 610 156
tel. +48 52 321 31 70, www.klubkuznia.pl
Browar, 9 Długa St.
London Pub, 14/16 Długa St.
tel. +48 52 348 63 49
tel. +48 52 321 00 69
Cytadela, 14 Stary Rynek St.
Mango, 9 Długa Str.
tel. +48 888 719 719, www.amsterdam-pub.com.pl
tel. +48 604 899 520
The One, 15 Gdańska St.
Merlin, 4 Zaułek St.
tel. +48 607 671 643, www.musicfashion.pl
tel. +48 52 322 87 70
Eljazz, 3 Kręta St.
Metro, 62 Długa St.
tel. +48 52 322 15 74, www.eljazz.com.pl
tel. +48 799 335 906, www.metrobydgoszcz.pl
Practical Information | Pubs/Clubs Moralist, 20 Zygmunta Augusta St.
Soda, 4 Mostowa St.
tel. +48 601 911 315, www.moralist.pl
tel. +48 52 339 08 01
Mózg,10 Gdańska St.
Stara Babcia, 2 Wełniany Sq.
tel. +48 52 345 51 95, www.mozg.art.pl
tel. +48 668 430 995, www.kredenspub.pl
Olimpic Bowling Center, 59 Toruńska St.
Śledź, 14 Magdzińskiego St.
tel. +48 52 328 90 50
tel. +48 791 198 920
www.olimpicbc.pl Parnasik, 2 Parkowa St.
Trip, 22 St. Florian St. tel. +48 52 349 38 22, www.trip.bydgoszcz.pl
Piwiarnia Warka Bydgoszcz
Warzelnia Piwa, 8 Poznańska St.
10 Wełniany Sq., tel. +48 52 515 40 00
tel. +48 505 042 271, www.warzelniapiwa.pl
PRL, 5 Stary Rynek St.
Węgliszek,1 Batorego St.
tel. +48 692 130 280, www.pubprl.pl
tel. +48 52 322 66 73
Red, 73 Dworcowa St.,
Wiatrakowa, 6 Zbożowy Sq.
tel. +48 697 58 38 58, www.red.bydgoszcz.home.pl
tel. +48 666 601 389
River Side Bydgoszcz (seasonal)
Widzimisie, 5 1/2 Kościeleckich Sq.
8 Poznańska St.,
tel. +48 609 109 248
tel. +48 505 042 271, www.warzelniapiwa.pl Sailing Club, 8 Podwale St. tel. +48 510 949 296 www.turystykawodna.pl Savoy, 2 Jagiellońska St. tel. +48 52 349 31 86, www.savoy.pl Shisha Ramzes, 12 Magdzińskiego St. tel. +48 880 156 844 Shot, 36 Długa St.
Zamek, 24 Długa St.
tel. +48 796 704 885
tel. +48 729 532 768
179
CINEMAS: Multikino, 48 Focha St. tel. +48 52 568 43 10, www.multikino.pl Helios Bydgoszcz, 141 Fordońska St tel. +48 52 581 00 53, www.helios.pl Orzeł Cinema, 12-14 Marcinkowskiego St. tel. +48 52 32 55 540, www.kino-orzel.pl
Entertainment
Adria Cinema & Theatre, 30 Toruńska St. tel. +48 52 371 27 39, www.kinoadria.pl Cinema City Bydgoszcz, 39-47 Jagiellońska St. tel. +48 52 554 37 77, www.cinema-city.pl Cinema Jeremi, 13 Gen. Z. Berlinga St. Sports Championship Group of Schools No. 5
It’s hard to get bored in Bydgoszcz. For those who finished their sightseeing, the city offers
Climbing walls:
a lot of other attractions. There is a host of
“Spider” Climbing Center
activities to get involved in both summer
8 Świecka St. (access road from Racławicka
and winter. Those who enjoy outdoor ac-
Street), tel. +48 698 860 550
tivities are invited to Myślęcinek; in winter
Boulder A5, 12/8 Jagiellońska St. (intercom 8)
– the ski slope and skating rink; in summer
tel. +48 692 352 335, www.a5.bydgoszcz.pl
– wakepark, horse stable, beach – to name
OSTRY Sport Climbing Wall
but a few. Adventure seekers won’t be disap-
246 Fordońska St., tel. +48 792 025 891
pointed either – aeroclub, laserfight, paint-
www.wspinanie-bydgoszcz.pl
ball, and climbing walls are places that await them. In the evening, we invite you to one of the many local clubs. They resonate with jazz, shanties, and club music, but there are also places for those who like sung poetry and alternative music.
180
Practical Information | Entertainment
OTHER:
Racing Kamat Bydgoszcz, 101 Toruńska St.
Bydgoszcz Aeroclub, 28d Biedaszkowo St.
(under Tesco), tel. +48 513 812 317
tel. +48 52 373 26 68,
www.gokarty.bydgoszcz.pl
www.aeroklubbydgoski.pl
Skatepark – outdoor, Unii Lubelskiej St. by
Alpen-Paintpall, 11 Alpejska St.
the Boulevard on the River Brda
tel. +48 608 310 446, www.alpen-paintball.pl
Victoria Stable,
Broadway Bowling & Club
54 Ks. A. Szamarzewskiego St.
45 Pułaskiego St. tel. +48 52 320 97 22,
tel. +48 694 581 633, www.stajniavictoria.com
www.broadwayclub.eu Bydgoszcz Kartodrom (kart circuit),
Myślęcinek:
116 Fordońska St., tel. +48 693 529 989,
Winter Sports Centre
www.pzm.pl
+48 52 328 00 09 www.myslecinek.pl
Olimpic Bowling Center
seasonal, depends on the weather,
59 Toruńska St., tel. +48 52 328 90 50,
11:00 – 19:00
www.olimpicbc.pl
Horse Recreation Centre
LaserFight, 100 Dworcowa St.
10 Konna St., tel. +48 724 560 016
tel. +48 530 500 412, www.laserfight.pl
www.rekreacja.konna.pod.aniolami.pl
Maximus (pool room)
Paintball Planet
25 Warszawska St., tel. +48 52 330 05 96,
tel. +48 796 752 638, www.paintball-planet.pl
www.club-maximus.pl
Wakepark, tel. +48 888 315 888,
Horse Recreation Center
www.wakeparkbydgoszcz.pl
85a Bora Komorowskiego St.,
Golf Course, tel.+48 507 113 651
tel. +48 603 198 594, www.konie.bydgoszcz.pl
Skatepark – indoor, +48 607 087 760,
Calisthenics Park, 2 Strzelecka St.
www.myslecinek.pl
Wakepark in Myślęcinek
181
Children are welcome in many interesting places in Bydgoszcz. There are special attractions for them where they can enjoy themselves. The offer includes many creative activities. Playgrounds and playrooms are perfect places for playful kiddies. Learning
For children
through play is a motto of many institutions.
Playgrounds: ÂÂ
Magic playground, Magic Chair and the Beach on Mill Island
ÂÂ ÂÂ ÂÂ ÂÂ
Playground in Jan Kochanowski Park Playground at the Bydgoszcz Canal Playground in Witos Park Playground near the Municipal Lock
Miniature Model of Bydgoszcz Castle Model made of mini bricks. Along with
Old tram
a description, it can be admired at 19-21
in Długa Street, open in the summer season
Grodzka Street, near the mBank office block
as a tourist information centre
(former BRE Bank).
Activities for children
Old Town Miniature model of Bydgoszcz
The Bydgoszcz Information Centre offers
Miniature model of Bydgoszcz showing the
books with routes and puzzles for children,
city’s appearance in the 17th century. The
including Master Twardowski’s Code and the
model is located at the amphitheatre at
Archer Lady’s Arrow.
Mostowa Street.
The Soap and History of Dirt Museum
Silhouette of Master Twardowski
13 Długa St., tel. +48 52 515 70 15,
It appears every day in the window of
www.muzeummydla.pl (p. 63)
tenement house no. 15 in the Old Market
“Motylek” Child Development Academy
Square at 1:13 am and 9:13 pm.
16/1 20 Stycznia 1920 St. tel. +48 506 972 810, www.akademia-motylek.pl
182
Practical Information | For children Tiny Tot Child Academy, 1c Gackowskiego
Development, 9 Rupniewskiego St.
St. tel. +48 795 434 558
tel. +48 52 524 31 73
www.akademiaszkraba.pl
www.wyspa.bydgoszcz.pl
Family Park 246 Fordońska St.
Myślęcinek
tel. +48 52 321 69 55, www.familypark.pl
Rope Park
Dinusiowo, 28 Marii Konopnickiej St.
173-175 Gdańska St.
(blue pavilion, second floor)
tel. +48 664131682
tel. +48 606 206 484
www.parklinowy.bydgoszcz.pl
www.dinusiowo.bydgoszcz.pl
Amusement Park – The Lost World,
REGNUM Education and Culture House
Macroworld, Paleontological Museum
12 A.G. Siedleckiego St. (building of Non-
173-175 Gdańska St.
Public Kindergarten “Przedszkolna Chatka”),
tel. +48 664131682, www.myslecinek.pl
3 Bośniacka St. (building of Elementary
ZOO
School no. 56)
(with aquarium, terrarium and mini ZOO)
tel. 52 371 10 51, 793 101 280
173 Gdańska St.,
www.nowe-pokolenie.pl
tel. +48 52 328 00 08 int. 39
Creative Education Foundation
www.zoo.bydgoszcz.com
16/1 Kordeckiego St., tel. +48 52 345 81 76 www.fundacjakreatywnejedukacji.org BABY LAND Play and Education Nook 16/47 Gałczyńskiego St. tel. +48 886 016 374 www.babyland.bydgoszcz.pl Kids Play, 140 Fordońska St. tel. +48 666 33 60 20 www.kidsplay.bydgoszcz.pl Magic Fun 115 Aleja Jana Pawła II St. (Glinki Shopping Centre), tel. +48 502 784 043 “Tree House” Playroom 12 Matejki St., tel. +48 501 696 244 www.domeknadrzewie.bydgoszcz.pl THE ISLAND – Centre for Support of Child
Magic Chair at the playground on Mill Island
183
“Sawmax” Bikes and Rolls Rental Office tel. +48 607 087 760 Myślęcinek – in front of the entrance to the
Tourist equipment rentals
Skatepark, at the pedestrian street heading to the ZOO Opening hours: Monday-Friday: 14:00-20:00 Saturday - Sunday: 12:00-20:00 Price list: - Dutch-type traditional bicycle:
Take a look at Bydgoszcz from a
6 PLN /h, 35 PLN/day
different perspective. From a bike – not only
- 4-person family bicycle: 20 PLN/h
the traditional, from a pedal boat, kayak, or
- 2-person go-kart: 12 PLN/h
dragon boat – the city will certainly look
- 1-person bicycle – go-kart: 10 PLN/h
different.
- Adjustable rollerblades: 6 PLN/h - body protectors – pads: 2 PLN/h
Bydgoszcz Information Centre 2 Batorego St., tel. +48 52 340 45 50
two documents required, which will be copied and returned
Mon. Tue. Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. Sept.-May 9-18 9-18 9-18 9-18 9-18 10-16 10-16
City Rent a Bike Hotel City, 6 3 Maja St
Mon. Tue. 9-19 9-19
tel. + 48 52 325 25 00
Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. June-Aug. 9-19 9-19 9-19 10-16 10-16
Prices: 3 PLN/h, 40 PLN/24h Deposit: 100 PLN for a bike ID required (ID or passport)
Prices: 6 PLN/h, 36 PLN/12h, deposit:100 PLN Prices for hotel guests: 3 PLN/h, 24 PLN/12h two photo IDs are required Bydgoszcz Marina , 2 Tamka St. tel. +48 52 58 59 601 Opening hours: Monday-Friday: 14:00-19:00 Weekends: 12:00-19:00 July-August Monday-Friday: 12:00-19:00 Saturday: 11:00-20:00 Sunday: 11:00-19:00
184
Practical Information | Tourist equipment rentals Price list:
Stanica Wodna PTTK Janowo
- 1 person kayak:
8 Biwakowa St.
10 PLN first hour, next hour 8 PLN
tel. +48 52 321 50 00 lub +48 609 757 995
- 2-person kayak:
Price list:
12 PLN first hour, next hour 0 PLN
- 2-person kayak, laminate:
- 3-person canoe:
8 PLN/h or 25 PLN/all day
15 PLN first hour, next hour10 PLN
- rowing boat:
- 4-person rowing boat:
10 PLN/h or 35 PLN/all day
20 PLN first hour, next hour18 PLN
- pedal boat:10 PLN/h
- Dragon boats:150 PLN/hour + steersman - 3-person Coxswain -15 PLN/h
Kamper Park
- pedal boats / motorized- 30 min 50 PLN,
79 Żeglarska St., tel. +48 501 340 669
1h- 85 PLN
Price list:
- pedal boats - 30 min - 30 PLN, 1h - 50 PLN
- pedal boat: 45 PLN/ 24h - bicycle: 3 PLN/h
KS Gwiazda Sports Club 45 Bronikowskiego St., tel.+48 52 3797801
Folwark Kujawski
Open in the summer season
155 Toruńska St.
(May - September)
tel. +48 669 323 033
Price list:
Price list:
- Rowing boat:100 PLN/h + steersman
- kayak: 30 PLN/24h
- Pedal boat:10 PLN/h or 25 PLN/24h
- pedal boat: 13 PLN/h - Bicycle: 3 PLN/h
The longest kayak in the world during the water festival “Set your Heading on Bydgoszcz”
185
Recognized international brands have
Shopping
their stores in Bydgoszcz. A walk on old trade routes – such as Gdańska, Długa and Dworcowa – is a perfect opportunity to combine shopping with sightseeing. There is something for everyone looking for unique souvenirs. Antique shops hide real treasures, while art galleries offer artworks made by Bydgoszcz artists for sale.
Shopping centres: RONDO Shopping Centre
Tesco
1 Kruszwicka St.
101 Toruńska St.
tel.: +48 52 326 36 54, www.chrondo.pl
tel. +48 52 375 78 00
Monday-Saturday: 8:00-22:00
www.tesco.pl
Sunday: 9:00-21:00
24/7
Focus Mall Bydgoszcz
Drukarnia Fashion House
39-47 Jagiellońska St.
1 Jagiellońska St.
tel. +48 52 554 35 00
tel. +48 52 321 38 08
www.focusmall-bydgoszcz.pl
www.drukarniadommody.pl
Monday-Sunday: 9:00-21:00
Monday-Saturday: 9:00-21:00
Cinema City Monday-Sunday: 9:30-22:45
Sunday: 10:00-21:00
Pomorska Shopping Centre
Glinki Shopping Centre
141 Fordońska St.
115 Jana Pawła Av.
www.galeriapomorska.pl
tel. +48 52 375 74 07
Monday-Saturday: 9:00-21:00
www.galeriaglinki.pl
Sunday: 10:00-20:00
Monday-Saturday: 9:00-21:00
Auchan Bydgoszcz
Sunday: 10:00-20:00
3 Mariana Rejewskiego St.
BATORY Retail Park
tel. +48 52 323 86 44
1B Fabryczna St.
www.auchanbydgoszcz.pl
tel. +48 58 661 75 58
Monday-Saturday: 9:00-21:00
www.batory.com.pl
Sunday: 9:30-20:00
Monday-Saturday: 9:00-21:00 Sunday: 9:00-21:00
186
Practical Information | Shopping
Souvenirs and handicrafts:
Second-hand bookshops:
Bydgoszcz Information Centre
Wiesław Dreas Scientific Antique Shop
2 Batorego St., tel. +48 52 340 45 50
3 Stary Rynek St.
Gosia Travel, 15 Długa St.
tel. +48 52 322 19 7
tel. +48 52 345 65 59
www.ban-dreas.pl
Cepelia, 17 Gdańska St.
Antique House, 42 Gdańska St.
tel. +48 52 322 17 28
tel. +48 52 322 38 86
Alix Gallery, 26 Jezuicka St.
Elibri Antique and Book Shop
tel. +48 52 322 25 39
5 Warszawska St.
Folk and Non-professional Art Gallery
tel. +48 608 209 777, www.antykwariat.org.pl
18 Stary Rynek St.
Julia Antique Shop, 2 Matejki St.
tel. +48 52 322 22 36
tel. +48 52 322 23 44, www.antykwariat-julia.pl
187
Bydgoszcz is a city in which a pleasant surprise awaits visitors behind every corner.
Tour operators
Interesting places can be seen during self-guided tours or services offered by professional guides. Tour organizers will show the local must-sees and take tourists to all the interesting places that are worth seeing.
Visite.pl Daria Kieraszewicz, 4/6 Batorego St.
Activitas, Barbara Galińska
ÂÂ ÂÂ ÂÂ ÂÂ ÂÂ
guides
ÂÂ
tours across Bydgoszcz
tel. +48 607 590 350, www.acyivitas.com.pl
organization of kayak trips
tours across the region conference service
Bydgoszcz Kayaks
city games
ÂÂ
organization of kayak trips
tel. +48 52 521 47 96,
tel. +48 790 224 226
+48 607 566 388,
www.bydgoskiekajaki.pl
+48 609 185 352, www.visite.pl PTU “Wiking”, Grzegorz Piłat PTTK Brda Trail, 1/I Sienkiewicza St.
ÂÂ ÂÂ ÂÂ
tours across Bydgoszcz
tel. +48 608 477 748
organization of kayak trips
www.kajaki.net.pl
+48 501 598 502, www.pttk.bydgoszcz.pl Uranos, Robert Bazela organization of kayak trips
tel. +48 669 323 033 www.splywy.bydgoszcz.pl
188
organization of kayak trips
88/3-4 Smoleńska St.
tel. +48 322 35 89,
ÂÂ
ÂÂ
guides
Practical Information | Tourist Attractions:
189
For more information visit: www.visitbydgoszcz.pl
190
Practical Information | Tourist Attractions
Tourist Attractions: 1
Old Market Square
2
Bydgoszcz Cathedral
3
Master Twardowski
4
City Hall
5
Children Playing with Goose Fountain
6
Casimir the Great Statue
7
Town walls
8
Covered Market
9
Mill Island - Museum Island
10
Bydgoszcz Venice
11
Museum of Soap and History of Dirt
12
Water Tower
13
Mostowa Street
14
Granaries - Leon Wyczółkowski District Museum
15
Man Crossing the River
16
Lloyd Palace
17
Water Tram
18
18th Meridian
19
Main Post Office
20
Church of Poor Clares
21
Bydgoszcz Canal
22
”Starofarny” Cemetery
2
4
6
9
12
14
191
23
Pod Orłem Hotel
24
Wolności Square
25
Deluge Fountain
26
1 Plac Wolności Street
27
Wincenty Witos Park
28
Saint Vincent á Paulo Basilica
29
Bench of Marian Rejewski
30
Head Office of Radio PiK
31
Cieszkowskiego Street
32
Andrzej Szwalbe Statue
33
Music District
34
Archer Lady Statue
35
Botanical Garden
36
Sielanka District
37
Myślęcinek Forest Park
15
17
21
25
33
192
Practical Information | Tourist Attractions
193
194