Upshift Issue 83 - July 2023

DUAL-SPORT

2024 KTM 500 EXC-F

What do you do when you reach the limit? We say, “Change your approach and keep charging ahead.” We accepted the challenge to create a machine capable of going places it’s never gone before. Now we challenge you to get out there and do the same!

SEE MORE AT KTM.COM

Open up new possibilities.

a new era of enduro has begun. featuring revolutionary new fuel injection technology, the 2024 te 300 is primed to take you places you have never gone before.

INSTA-ADV

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

THE SERVICE PROVIDER

Motorcycle Clubs Are Not Service Providers. A service provider is like a mechanic you take your bike to. You pay the mechanic to source the parts and fix your bike, and it costs more to have someone do the work for you. A club is like fixing the bike yourself. You only pay for the parts, and you supply the time and effort it takes to turn the wrenches to fix the bike. Yet if you don’t put the work in, your bike won’t get fixed.

Clubs collect dues to cover operating expenses and to create opportunities to make pursuing a common interest enjoyable – think pizza and beer after a club ride or buying tools to maintain local trails. A club relies on its members to volunteer their time and effort to make things happen, and herein lies our problem.

Some folks seem to think that paying club dues is the same as paying for a service. They expect that by paying money to a club, there will be perfectly manicured trails to ride or an awesome race for them to enter. That isn’t how it works. Clubs are not service providers, and if there aren’t enough volunteers, things won’t get done. That means trails will go unmaintained and races won’t happen.

Being a paying member of a local club is a step in the right direction, but the better thing to do is volunteer your time. Go to a trail day, help put on the race, participate in a meeting. Put forth some effort. Do some actual work to make the thing you care about better for yourself and everyone else in your community. Carry a trail sized pick and fix that blown out corner. Carry a Silky Saw and cut even one tree out. Show up to a meeting and figure out where you can help out. Clubs are not service providers, so let’s stop treating them as such.

PROVIDER

KTM Introduces An All-New Hardenduro Nameplate To Its 2024 Enduro Lineup

With many decades of success at the world’s toughest hard enduro races, along with the FIM Hard Enduro World Championship, KTM introduces a dedicated HARDENDURO model to its unrivaled 2024 KTM EXC range. In celebration of the most challenging hard enduro races on earth, KTM has released the 2024 KTM 300 EXC HARDENDURO, positioning itself at the top end of the KTM Enduro model range.

Well known German hard enduro rider Manuel Lettenbichler already giving the 2024 KTM 300 EXC HARDENDURO his stamp of approval, having taken the 2022 Hard Enduro World Championship title, and opening his 2023 campaign with wins at RED BULL Erbergrodeo and Xross Hard Enduro Rally. The 2024 KTM 300 EXC HARDENDURO has some serious pedigree.

The 2024 KTM 300 EXC HARDENDURO is specially built to tackle tough terrain and features a slew of special protection parts, including closed hand guards, clutch slave cylinder protection, composite skid plate and brake disc guards to withstand the most extreme racing scenarios imaginably. The all-new 2024 KTM 300 EXC HARDENDURO will be available at authorized KTM dealers from July onwards. For more information, visit www.KTM.com

Along with an all-new frame, closed-cartridge suspension, refined bodywork, and industry-leading TBI technology, the 2024 KTM 300 EXC HARDENDURO also features additional parts such as:

• New, model-specific graphics

• Orange frame

• HARDENDURO bar pad

• Soft, grey ODI lock-on grips

• Ribbed diamante factory seat

• Map-selection switch

• Factory frame protector set

• Factory wheelset, featuring black D.I.D rims, black spokes, orange-anodized hubs, and orange-anodized nipples

• Metzeler 6 Days Extreme tires

• Wrap-around handguards

• Orange-anodized CNC machined triple clamps

• Composite skid plate

• Floating front brake disc with composite front brake disc guard

• Solid rear brake disc, with safety wire and orange rear brake disc guard

• Orange Supersprox stealth rear sprocket

• Orange-anodized oil plug

• Orange-anodized clutch slave cylinder protection

• Front and rear pull straps

THE NEW WORLD CONQUEROR

WORLD-CLASS DURABILITY AND FUNCTIONALITY / KEEPS YOU DRY AND COMFORTABLE IN GLOBALLY DIVERSE CLIMATES / CUSTOM-BUILT KLIM/D3O® AERO PRO ARMOR / WORLD’S FIRST CE AAA-RATED ALL-WEATHER GEAR

BADLANDS PRO A3 JACKET & PANT / KRIOS PRO HELMET

The Muc-Off Secure AirTag™ Holder

The Muc-Off Secure AirTag Holder for Powersports offers a secure way to install an Apple AirTag to your ride, so you can track down or keep tabs on your pride and joy using the FindMy™ app.

Your AirTag* will be securely housed in a two-part, heat resistant polymer holder, surrounded by a precision machined, aircraft-grade 6061 aluminium frame and clamp. It also comes supplied with security Torx screws and a lockable clamp to make sure it stays put! *AirTag not included with mount! Price: $59.00. Available in the Upshift Store Here. Includes the following:

• Secure AirTag Holder Clamp and Tag Holder

• Silicone clamp grip sizes

• Security screws

• Security key

Silky Katanaboy 500 Folding Saw XL Teeth

If you’re going deep into the woods, Silky presents this two-handed, professional, heavy-duty folding saw with a 20” blade that can easily compete with a chainsaw! It is the largest folding saw on the market today. The long, well-balanced, taper-ground blade with an impulse-hardened, non-set tooth design provides extended working reach, faster cutting, and handles large limbs and trunks with no effort.

The non-slip, two-handed, rubberized cushioned handle provides a sure and comfortable grip even in the most difficult operating conditions. Suitable for serious tasks like cutting large timber and tree trunks. Exceptional design, strength, balance and superior finish quality. Comes with a sturdy nylon shoulder bag with Velcro fastening and a pocket for replacement blades. Made in Japan. Price: $224.00. Available in the Upshift Store Here.

RESTORE YOUR FACTORY FINISH

MOTO SHINE MS1

THERE’S A NEW SCENT IN THE AIR

• Perfect, high-gloss shine

• Safe on all surface finishes

• Anti-static, dust repelling sheen

• Easy cleanup, mud releasing, protective film

• Fresh, scented formulation

YOUR FINISH

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CHOOSE TO HAVE IT ALL

The new Tiger 1200. It’s the world’s most capable, agile and maneuverable large capacity adventure motorcycle. It’s also significantly lighter and more powerful than its closest competition, with class leading handling, capability and specification, plus all of Triumph’s T-plane triple performance advantage. All of which combine to deliver exceptional capability and performance on the tarmac, and the most dynamic, exciting experience off road.

The all-new Tiger 1200 family. Now with every advantage. From $19,595 MSRP. Find out more at triumphmotorcycles.com

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: DAVID SCHELSKE

PHOTO: SCOTT ROUNDS

PHOTO: DAVID SCHELSKE COLORADO

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: ILMO NIITTYMÄKI

PHOTO: DAVID SCHELSKE

PHOTO: DAVID SCHELSKE

THE WORLD JUST GOTALOT SMALLER WITHTHE POWERFUL PERFORMANCE,ADVANCEDELECTRONICS,ANDANY-ROAD CAPABILITIES OFTHEALL-NEW2023V-STROM 800DE.

Shift your adventure into a higher gear. Developed from a clean sheet of fresh ideas, the new Suzuki V-STROM 800DE features an advanced new parallel-twin 776cc powerplant complemented by dynamic rider aids, long-travel suspension, and spoke-style wheels. So, when you’re idling at the crossroads of on- or off-road adventure, the V-STROM 800DE is there to advance whatever direction you choose.

IN DEALERSHIPS NOW

Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2023 Suzuki Motor USA, LLC

PHOTO: SCOTT ROUNDS

PHOTO: MOTOMORGANA

PHOTO: ILMO NIITTYMÄKI

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

2023 Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

It turns out that the Italians know how to make a pretty damn good rocket. While other entities are working to build rockets that take off vertically toward the moon or other celestial bodies, the Italian rocket I’m referring to works in a horizonal direction. It’s fast. Like the transition to hyperspace as depicted in the Star Wars movies fast. Controlled with an acceleratore, which is Italian for warp drive control widget, or the throttle in plain old English, this Italian rocket works thusly: whack the throttle and four cylinders start converting air and refined dinosaur juice into angular momentum at a rate that would have enabled Wile E. Coyote to actually catch the roadrunner. 5,000 RPM feels powerful. 7,000 RPM is where you better be hanging on. If you’ve got the road in front of you and the cajones to hold the throttle on the stop all the way to 10,750 RPM, you’ll be using all 170 horsepower (at the crank) and experiencing the completion of the transition to hyperspace. It’s ridiculously good fun, and the rocket that makes this possible is called the Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally.

WORDS: CHAD DE ALVA PHOTOS: GREGOR HELENDA, SCOTT ROUNDS

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

The V4 Rally is the latest variant of the Multistrada platform built to, in Ducati’s words “unlock the world.”

To accomplish this, the bike has a number of changes and revisions compared to the other flavors of Multistrada that make it one of the most premium, technologically advanced, powerful, capable, and expensive rockets - I mean bikes - ever produced.

To share the Multistrada V4 Rally with us, Ducati USA created a two-day riding experience in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado; a place in which I was fortunate enough to grow up, so trust me when I say it’s a great place to ride an adventure bike. Our two-day event would let us ride the Rally on plenty of awesome high altitude twisty windy two lane roads, gravel superhighways, dirt tracks, through a few rainstorms, and even a high mountain pass. As someone who is very unfamiliar with all things Multistrada, I had a lot to learn about how Italian bikes do this adventure riding thing.

Sitting on the bike for the first time, Ducati started my familiarization tour by briefing me on the Multistrada V4 Rally’s suspension: fully electronic Skyhook DSS EVO suspension offers 200 mm or 7.9 inches of front and rear stroke. With a few flicks of a control stick on the left hand switch gear, riders can adjust suspension settings to their preferences and riding conditions. Another button lets you tell the bike whether you’re riding one up, two up, with luggage, or if you just want the bike to set the perfect amount of sag for the weight it’s carrying. The Rally’s suspension also has a minimum preload function where the bike will reduce seat height when you stop, and Easy Lift, which softens up the suspension making it easier to get the bike off the side stand.

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

SCAN TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE VX-PRO4 SCAN TO SEE THE VALUE OF ARAI VIDEO

Speaking of seat height, the Rally has a plethora of available seats, and combined with different seat positions and an optional lowered suspension kit, I’ll just say there are many different seat heights that can be configured to help the rider better fit the bike ranging from 805mm or 31.7 inches to 905mm or 35.6 inches. The standard seat can be set at either 870mm or 34.3 inches or 890mm or 35.0 inches. I opted for the standard seat in the high position, and found it ideal for my 6 foot, 1 inch frame. On the standard suspension, ground clearance measures in at 235mm or 9.25 inches.

Forward of the Rally’s seat, you’ll find the beautiful, brushed aluminum fuel tank which holds 30L or 7.9 gallons of fuel. Ducati claims fuel consumption should be around 36 mpg, so figure around 300 miles on a tank – but don’t be surprised if you get lower economy numbers than that, because you can’t help but let the Multistrada V4 Rally’s brilliant motor eat.

The V4 Granturismo Evo engine is an impressive motor with a feature set that sounds like it came out of a car and not a motorcycle. The rear cylinders deactivate at idle or at light engine loads under 4,500 RPM, which helps with fuel consumption and heat output. Service intervals are oil every 9,000 miles or two years, and you don’t need to pop a valve cover off until you’ve logged 36,000 miles.

The centerpiece of the Rally’s cockpit is a 6.5 inch TFT display that does a great job of communicating information to the rider, but it’s not the fastest UI/UX in town. In front of the dash, you’ll find an enlarged windscreen which has the best height adjustment system I’ve ever used. You simply press a lever to drop the windscreen and pull up on the same lever to raise the windscreen. Other manufacturers take note – Ducati has nailed how to make a windscreen work.

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

Other call-outs during my pre-ride familiarization tour of the bike included the Blind Spot Monitoring system, which lights up part of the mirror to let you know when someone is hiding where you can’t see them, and how to use the adaptive cruise control. There’s so much tech on this bike that you really need to spend time with it to fully appreciate all of the features available to the rider – but it was time to go riding, so further learning would have to take place as they say, on the job.

Starting in Touring Mode with default settings, the Rally quickly demonstrated what an impressive grand touring bike it is. The motor is smooth and tractable down low, which makes the Rally confidence inspiring and approachable. Working our way out of town in weekday traffic was no sweat, and I didn’t find myself wanting the additional support the rider aids provide in the Urban Riding Mode. Out on the open road, the Rally’s in its element. The bike makes miles melt away thanks to its dialed ergos, and that wonderful windscreen that provided great wind protection at any speed to my body and my MX style helmet. If I was going for an Iron Butt attempt – this would be a hard bike to beat, with the way it makes any rate of travel feel as easy as drinking a morning cup of coffee. Road handling is outstanding. The bike is precise, nimble, and tracks through any shape of corner brilliantly, but what else would you expect from a Ducati?

The challenge quickly becomes balancing keeping your license with your lizard brain desire for more throttle. When you do eventually decide that you should slow down to speeds where you’ll actually get to keep your license if you’re caught – the Rally’s monster 330mm front brakes have all the stopping power, if not the most consistent lever feel out there. Squeezing the front brake lever hard while stopped will also activate Hill Hold Mode, which is a great feature for making quick stops to futz with some piece of gear.

Heading north out of Silverton, the road gets distinctly more twisty, more windy, and much more exposed. An off here is game over. The only logical thing to do then is to click into Sport Mode which backs off of the intervention from the acronym soup of rider aids. I also opted to customize the Ride Mode by stiffening up the Rally’s suspension. Red mountain pass has a little bit of everything: rapid successions of corners that let you really appreciate side to side transitions, 180 degree horseshoes, and all sorts of increasing and decreasing radius turns with elevation changes and exposure for good measure. If there’s a better, more beautiful place to stretch a bike’s legs – I have yet to find it.

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

The V4 Granturismo Evo engine is hard to put into words. Once you open it up, this motor will keep pouring on linear power for so long, you can’t help but glance down at the dash to confirm what your ears are telling you – yes, RPM is in fact currently being measured with five significant figures. The Rally revs like a modern 350, except the Rally’s motor is like four 350 motors working in concert; it’s quite an addicting experience, and it makes almost everything else feel slow in comparison. In Sport Mode, The Multistrada V4 Rally was an absolute giggle, and to be clear, the bike is far more capable than I am on road. But boy howdy – it’s good fun on a road like Red Mountain pass, and even at elevations greater than 10,000 feet above sea level, it’s still quite the rocket.

After a bit more San Juan Skyway, our route finally turned to dirt and it was time to answer the question, “How does the Rally actually get on in the dirt?” On well graveled ranch roads where carrying plenty of speed was all too easy, the Rally felt at home. The 19 inch front and 17 inch rear wheels shod in Pirelli Rally STR tires performed great on-road in the morning, and now I was enjoying how well they slid under power on corner exit on miles of well graveled road. At speed, the Rally tracks well and the Enduro Mode’s default suspension setting did a great job soaking up the chatter to provide a very smooth ride. The default traction control setting for Enduro Mode was developed on the Rally STR tires, and it provided a good balance between drive and powerslide on corner exit.

Day two of our ride started off with a dirt road that I’m intimately familiar with. Thanks to a rainstorm the night before, things were a little slippery as we started logging miles for the day, and I found myself missing the on-the-fly traction control adjustment found on other bikes. It’s always interesting to see how a bike’s traction control system can find grip in slippery conditions, but I didn’t get the chance to stop and change the Rally’s traction control settings.

Thankfully, before we got into a section of trail where I knew I would have the opportunity to air out the Rally, I quickly stopped to crank the suspension to its firmest setting to see how the fancy electronic suspension would handle 573 pounds of bike and call it 220 pounds of rider and gear coming in for a landing. Let’s just say that if you put enough air under the tires before landing on uneven ground, parts of the bike’s belly will get a soil sample. Yet even on a particularly hard landing, the Rally stayed perfectly composed, so other than the recognition of the fact that I should stop scratching the belly of Ducati’s bike, things didn’t get scary at all, and I’m a fan of how easy it is to dial in the Rally’s suspension for the terrain in which you’re riding.

Our ride culminated in a run over Cinnamon Pass. Due to an unexpected delay that involved a reminder of why hard boxes are scary, we ended up riding the pass at last light. With a storm bearing down on myself and two other riders, it was time to take full advantage of being separated from the rest of our group to squirrel around a little bit and really see what the Rally could do on more technical, wet, muddy, and rocky terrain. I took full advantage of the situation by doing things like stopping on the loosest, rockiest climb I could find, just to see what getting going again was like. Technical lines were equally enjoyable, and I took every opportunity to ride though the fun stuff instead of just getting around it. With the exception of the road biased foot controls being somewhat of a hinderance (rear brake lever and shift lever too low), the Rally is light on its feet and confident off road, and it did a great job climbing to the top of Cinnamon Pass.

The way down was equally enjoyable as I got to play with the bike’s adjustable engine braking which makes the bike feel somewhat like a two stroke on its lowest setting, and conversely provides impressive levels of braking on its highest setting. This is a great feature for descending mountain passes without cooking your brakes, and just one more example of how much tech is packed into the Multi Rally.

Pulling into town that night with light rain falling, I found myself wanting more time with the Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally. This bike impressed me with its tech, performance, on and off-road capabilities, and most importantly, the experience it provided. I wanted to ride one more pass, powerslide out of one more gravel corner, or make one more lap over Red Mountain Pass – but as they say, all good things must come to an end.

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally

Ducatis Multistrada V4 Rally is an impressive bike – and it better be given the price tag it commands. The bikes we rode start at $30,595, and that’s before you factor in the accessories like crash bars, fog lights, and the extra guards that Ducati added on to our loaner bikes. This price point knocks the Rally off the radar for many riders, but for those who can afford it, the Multi Rally is a premium bike that’s quite capable, packed with tech, and an absolute hoot to ride. If I was buying a Multi V4 Rally, I’d be ditching the hard boxes and sorting out the foot controls, but otherwise – I’d be a smitten kitten. If it’s in your budget, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. I also think that the GS crowd should schedule a test ride at their local Ducati dealer soon – I expect Ducati is going to win over a few GS fans with the Multistrada V4 Rally.

Ducati Multistrada V4 Rally SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE TYPE: .................. Ducati V4 Granturismo, V4 – 90°, 4 valves per cylinder, counter-rotating crankshaft, twin pulse firing order, semi dry sump, liquid cooled

DISPLACEMENT: .............. 1,158 cc

BORE X STROKE: .............. 83 x 53.3 mm

COMPRESSION RATIO: ... 14:1

POWER: ............................ 125 kW (170 hp) @ 10,750 rpm

TORQUE: .......................... 121 Nm (89.2 ft-lbs) @ 8,750 rpm

FUEL INJECTION: ............. Continental electronic fuel injection system, Øeq 46mm equivalent elliptical throttle bodies with Ride-by-Wire system

GEARBOX: ........................ 6 speed with Ducati Quick Shift up/down

PRIMARY DRIVE: .............. Straight cut gears; Ratio 1.8:1

CLUTCH: ............................ Multiplate clutch with hydraulic control. Self-servo action on drive, slipper action on over-run

FRAME: ............................. Aluminum monocoque frame

FRONT SUSPENSION: ..... Ø50 mm fully adjustable usd fork with internal stroke sensor. Electronic compression and rebound damping adjustment with Ducati Skyhook Suspension EVO (DSS)

FRONT WHEEL: ................ Spoked wheel 3″ x 19 Tubeless″

FRONT TIRE: ..................... Pirelli Scorpion Trail II 120/70 R19

REAR SUSPENSION: ........ Cantilever suspension with fully adjustable monoshock. Electronic compression and rebound damping adjustment. Electronic spring preload adjustment with Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS). Aluminum double-sided swingarm

REAR WHEEL: ................... Spoked wheel 4.5″ x 17″

REAR TIRE: ........................ Pirelli Scorpion Trail II 170/60 R17 Tubeless″

WHEEL TRAVEL: ............... (FRONT/REAR): 200 mm – 200 mm (7.9 in – 7.9 in)

GROUND CLEARANCE: .. 235 mm (9.25 in)

FRONT BRAKE: ................. 2 x 330 mm semi-floating discs, radially mounted Brembo Stylema 4-piston calipers, 2-pad, radial master cylinder with cornering ABS as standard equipment

REAR BRAKE: .................... 265 mm disc, 2-piston floating calliper, with cornering ABS as standard equipment

INSTRUMENTATION: ....... 6.5″ TFT color display with Ducati Connect and full-map navi system

DRY WEIGHT: .................... 227 kg (500 lb)

WET WEIGHT: .................. 260 kg (573 lb)

SEAT HEIGHT: .................... Adjustable 870 – 890 mm (34.3 – 35.0 in);

WHEELBASE: .................... 1,572 mm (61.9 in)

FUEL TANK CAPACITY: .... 30 l (7.9 US gal)

PRICE (MSRP): .................. Starting at $30.595 USD

DUCATI Multistrada V4/V4S

Upper & Lower Crash Bars • Skid Plate

Rushing parts to the market has never been our goal. Hence we spent nearly a year developing and carefully testing our 2021-2022 Ducati Multistrada V4/V4S products. The greatest challenge was designing and developing a set of properly performing crash bars!

Please visit our YouTube channel for the o cial DropTest video!

When five friends whose lives revolve around surfing and motorcycles get to plan a trip together it is usually an either/or selection of activity. This time around though, the destination of Southern Portugal was perfect for both. Surf racks were fitted to the bikes, a selection of boards were packed and all loaded into two vans for a week of fun in the sun.

NECESSARY EVIL

Departure was easy, all the necessary preparations were done the day before. It was enough to walk to the parking lot with a thermos filled with hot coffee. It was still dark when I climbed into the van to join Damien and Seb, the anticipation of fun had woken us up with high spirits even if there was still some dirt left in our eyes from the sandman. Soon we would be caked with it by our own doing, but we did have 13 hours of driving in front of us before all that. “The drive from Hossegor to Algarve is easy, compared to driving to Lapland back home in Finland”, I told the guys, “No moose or reindeer, nor snow and ice.” Moments later I groaned in the crowded cabin, trying to sort out my broken knees to a better position on the middle seat. Apart from discomfort, the drive down to our Airbnb in Rogil was uneventful and fast. Within minutes of our arrival we had a fire going in the bbq, beers in the fridge, and the van unloaded. The forecast was looking very good for waves at the start of the week, so racks went on the bikes. We could always focus on the more adventurous riding once the waves died down. Adam and Ivan arrived from Bordeaux a couple of hours later just in time for dinner. Soon enough after the first night’s feast everyone retired to bed, dreaming of living the dream.

COFFEE AND GO TIME

At sunrise the whole pack was already fiddling with their surf kits while engines rumbled in the cool morning. Our house was perfectly located just outside a village on a dirt road that turned into a maze of tracks towards the ocean. Without many boring bits on tarmac, we got to the coastline and soon discovered an empty beach with a very promising wave rolling through. Within minutes we stripped the riding gear off and squeezed our carcasses into wetsuits. The session was fun with beautiful waves all to ourselves. After a couple of hours a few others joined in the line up, but by that time we had had our fill and decided to jump on the bikes to search for something new.

Along the coast the terrain was fluffy sand with some treacherous roots and rocks, almost identical to what we were used to around home, sans the cliffs and views. We were exhilarated with it and kept the revs high while the boards bounced on the racks unnervingly, but we didn’t have any misfortunes. After an hour of ripping up the coast, we discovered a promising wave and decided it was time to wash the dust off our faces. After the session everyone was famished. We found a restaurant close by and a very fun looking track heading there. It would be fair to say that we raced to get there.

We were greeted with a smile and curious eyes at the restaurant, and judging by the amount of people there, the food would be great. We weren’t disappointed. Tosta Mistas (ham and cheese toast) and some homemade chips were washed down with cold Superbocks. Satisfied but sluggish, we had to double up on the coffees to build momentum to get back up on the bikes.

We had a beach in mind further up north in Alentejo that we wanted to check out and made our way there on variable terrain. Unfortunately on arrival the wind had taken over and messed up the sea, but everyone seemed to be quite content with the idea of not surfing again. We dove into our screens and made a rough itinerary that would take us back to our residence as close as possible to the seashore. On the way back we discovered a breathtaking pathway that hugged the cliffs’ edge. With the setting sun, sea, and 50 meter drop on our right side, we cruised with smirks on our faces. The day had been even better than any of us had imagined.

WAKE UP AND REPEAT

The second morning seemed to work like clockwork; each had established their routine, no one was hunting for lost gloves or other bits. It was time to hit the road southward and hopes were high to find waves and trails as good as the day before. The first beach we stumbled upon didn’t have much going on so we decided to push onward. We were riding swiftly but there was some stiffness in all of us after the first big day. While riding, I saw a cloud of mist, soon enough another and by the third one my brain was awake enough to realize something was leaking. A short inspection later it was clear that something had punctured my radiator. We couldn’t locate it exactly, but I figured it was better to head toward Aljezur and sort it out rather than end up dry some place in the middle of nowhere. The rest of the crew pushed onward in search of a wave. After a little asking around I found a garage and walked in. After greetings and smiles it was clear we didn’t share a language, but google translate came to the rescue and now a clearly visible coolant leak made it easy to commence work. I took the bike apart while they kept working on an 80’s ATV. Soon I got a clear visual of the culprit: there was a bolt sticking out from my radiator. First guess was that one of the boys were spilling loose bits after the first day’s shakedown. I placed it in my tool bag just in case it would be handy later. After a generous dollop of chemical metal, a nap in the sun, and fresh coolant, the bike was happy again. I waved thank you to the garage crew and rushed south where the boys were heading for lunch.

I arrived to Vila do Bisbo just as the boys were getting seated at the table. Couldn’t have timed it better. Apparently the waves hadn’t been all that great, but they had a good time anyways. After enjoying a hearty lunch in the sun we had a look at the bikes to see if anyone was missing a bolt. We only found a few loose ones in the racks, but no empty holes, which was sort of a relief. On we went again.

The rest of the day was spent riding around hundreds of headlands with hopes of finding something to surf, but time after time we were disappointed until we rolled down a steep hill in the softening afternoon light and stopped on a cliff top. Fun peelers were running all alone on a small beach nestled in between vertical bluffs. We raced down and literally jumped off our bikes into our wetsuits. A fun session ensued, although not as good as the first day, but it still felt special. We had earned these waves. With the sun already setting in the horizon, we scrambled back on the bikes and headed home with wide grins in the darkening evening.

RALLY AND RAID

The waves were gone and wind was present when we woke up. On a surf trip a slow morning would have ensued, but we rolled out the tools and got rid of the board racks from the bikes and felt excited. It was time to ride without worry of a wobbly surfboard on the side, and head inland to see what kind of trouble we could get ourselves into. At the first steep and rocky climb I managed to stall my Dakar in a precarious spot, but with very careful manoeuvring I managed to slide my front tire facing downhill for a new attempt. Luckily there was a good runway to get speed. With rocks and bike flying I got up the hill to meet the others who had discovered that the trail ended on the top of the hill. The tone of the day was set: many u-turns, reroutes and contemplation if we could get over a particular obstacle. In short, a perfect day on the saddle as we didn’t have any particular destination in mind. Mud, sand, rocks, wide, narrow and occasionally wet terrain kept us very entertained all day.

EXPLORING INLAND

A stiff and achy crew crawled out from beds a little later than the previous days. The week so far had been “action packed” and it started to show in our movement. No ladders or forklifts were needed though to get the boys back on bikes. The plan was to head east, get lost and find our way back to the coast. This appealed to me as I tend to dislike predetermined routes and plans. Staring at the navigator at every crossing interferes with the natural flow of riding. As some of you might guess we were very successful at our quest. Dirt roads turned into single tracks, which sometimes ended up being over grown paths that got you doubting if it really was a track at all. Splendid! Other than being lost most of the day, we didn’t have too many hazardous moments. Seb’s muffler decided to fly off with the bolts. A bigger surprise was that the 80’s XT hadn’t shed anything vital during the trip. I had spare bolts in my kit and as soon as the muffler was cool enough to handle, we got it back in place and on we went. Curious exploring ensued and on short stops everyone was grinning and out of breath. Collectively on one such break we agreed that South Portugal is just about the best place on earth, or at least within Europe, to ride, surf, eat and enjoy the sun.

The day’s adventures were celebrated with home distilled Chupito at our village’s only restaurant. This trip had been everything we had dared to dream. With the clink of the handmade clay cups we vowed to be back, and enjoyed the sweet burn in our throats that we knew would soon relieve us from the aches and pains acquired during a fun week.

A pair of R4, for the win. A billet aluminum body means more lumens in a smaller package.

model shown.

Mosko Moto Rak Pullover/Overpant

Mosko Moto’s version 1.0 Rak Pullover and Rak Overpants have been some of my most frequently used riding gear. The Rak Pullover and Overpants strike an ideal balance between functionality, packability, and durability that makes for a great option any time you need a functional waterproof shell that can take a hit, and that folds up small enough to stow in a pack or on a dirt bike when not needed. My original Rak Pullover has kept me comfortable on countless cold, wet, or snowy rides – and the Rak Overpants have proven to work equally well when there’s enough moisture in the forecast to warrant packing a set of waterproof pants. So when Mosko Moto launched version 2.0 of the Rak Pullover and Overpants for Spring 2023, I had to get my hands on them to see what Mosko had done to revise a set of gear that I’ve come to count on to keep me comfortable for so many different types of riding.

The Rak Pullover is based off an anorak style jacket, so instead of full front zip, the Rak Pullover has a top quarter front zip and a bottom quarter side zip. The idea here is that even if both zippers on the garment fail, the jacket is still a useable pullover, whereas a jacket with a single full front zip is much less functional when its front zipper is out of commission. Version 2.0 of the Rak Pullover keeps this anorak style design and adds some welcome quality of life improvements. A kangaroo pocket has been added to the outside of the hand pockets for additional storage, and it’s a great place to stash all sorts of stuff you need to quickly access. The addition of a removable hood makes the Rak Pullover work just like a waterproof hiking / skiing jacket, so you only need to bring one waterproof jacket on a riding trip. Collar hold-open snaps and a second zipper on the side zip have been added to enable better venting when wearing the Rak. Anti-flap Velcro tabs have been added to help keep the jacket from flapping all over the place when riding at high speed. These additions do add to the jacket’s weight and packed volume, but it’s a small price to pay for the additional features.

The Rak Overpants are as the name suggests, designed to go on over your other moto pants when things are about to get wet. With separate shell pants, riders can enjoy the comfort benefits of riding in their favorite not-waterproof pants when it’s not raining, and quickly layer up for wet and/or cold weather protection when needed. Version 2.0 of the Rak Overpants retains the right thigh pocket from V 1.0, and receive an extra zipper to both of the full-length side zips, so that the pants can be completely split in half for easier donning and doffing.

My first outing with the new Rak Pullover was during the Grindingstone Hard Enduro race in Page, AZ. With plenty of wind, the occasional rain shower, and highs in the 40’s the new Rak quickly proved that it has great wet and cold weather performance. The new kangaroo pocket is great for protecting a camera (mirrorless body with a 24-70mm lens) from the elements, and the hood proved its worth by keeping my head warm while standing around watching the races and getting blasted by rain, wind, and sand.

Over the last few months, the new Rak Pullover has been my go-to jacket for almost all of my riding. The Rak has seen single track use, dual sport use, and multi-day adventure use. It’s done everything from serving as a windbreaker on cold mornings, to keeping me dry when riding through hours of rain and hail with a few guys from the Mosko Moto Crew. The few times I’ve needed a set of rain pants, the Rak Overpants have been the clutch solution I can quickly deploy before pressing on into a wall of water. As soon as the storm breaks, you can quickly doff the pants and get back to enjoying the comfort of your regular riding pants – and that’s a hard thing to beat.

No piece of gear is perfect, but the Rak Pullover comes pretty close. My only critique of the Pullover is that the Anti-flap Velcro Tabs seem superfluous. Even when riding Ducati’s new Multistrada V4 Rally (as featured in this issue) at triple digit speeds, I didn’t find myself wishing for a way to mitigate jacket flapping – but I need to point out that I always have on some sort of backpack when riding. Personally, I’d rather have a smaller packed volume a la Rak version 1.0 and no anti-flap tabs. As for the Overpants, I would gladly take a little extra room in the crotch and in the thighs – Mosko has been refining their fit with each iteration of their apparel, but putting Rak Overpants on over Mosko Moto Woodsman pants when you’ve got even a few items in the Woodsman’s thigh pockets makes for a tight fit, and that can restrict your legs’ range of motion making it hard to perform the otherwise easy high kick a leg over a bike.

Several months into using Mosko Moto’s Rak Pullover and Overpants V 2.0, I can confirm that Mosko Moto has done a great job updating an already outstanding gear system that was the Rak V 1.0 without breaking the formula. Thanks to its new features, the Rak Pullover V 2.0 is even more functional while still being the durable, packable, only jacket you need on any kind of ride. When you need a pair of top shelf rain pants, the Rak Overpants have proven to be a great option, and if you haven’t embraced the two pant layering system – you need to. Regular riding pants and a second pair of quick on and off waterproof pants offer greater comfort across a broader range of riding conditions when compared to a single pair of vented waterproof pants. If you want more abrasion resistance than what the Rak offers, you can have your Super Fabric cake and the Rak’s waterproof performance in Mosko’s Basilisk system. Yet for a shell system that gives you everything you need, and nothing that you don’t – the Mosko Moto Rak Pullover and Overpants are hard to beat. For more information head to moskomoto.com

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BY CHAD DE ALVA

MOUSSE BALLS

Mr. Wolf’s Mousse Balls are a new take on the foam inner tube replacement commonly referred to as a mousse that riders use in place of an inflatable inner tube. The big advantage that mousses offer over inner tubes is that they can’t go flat, which is why they’re the go-to tire inflation system for racers of all disciplines, and riders who don’t want to deal with flats. But like any other product, mousses have their drawbacks. The biggest downside to running mousses is that they’re size specific, meaning that a given mousse only works with certain size tires from certain manufactures. However, Moose Balls are a universal fit, so just like an inner tube, they can work in all sizes of tires from all manufacturers. If you’re looking for a way to obtain flat proof performance out of almost any tire, Moose Balls may be exactly what you’re looking for.

To be clear on what a mousse is, imagine a tire sized foam doughnut, or a torus in proper geometric parlance. Now cut that torus into a couple dozen equally sized segments and you’ll have a set of Mousse Balls. And yes, I realize the almost limitless potential for making jokes about balls here – but it’s easier to write balls than torus segments so we’re going with it.

Mousse balls come in two sets: one for front tires, and one for rear tires. Since Mr. Wolf claims Mousse Balls work with almost any size tire, my first move was to start shoving balls into all of the various sized tires I could get my hands on. Front tires don’t vary in size as much a rear tires do, so it was no surprise that a Mousse Ball appeared to fit well in everything from a 80/100-21 up to a 90/100-21. For the rear balls, I tried everything from a 140/80-18 down to a 110/10018 and observed the same results – Mousse balls appear to fill tires of different sizes and from different manufacturers quite well. Yet, it’s important to note that fit-checking a single ball isn’t the same as actually riding a given tire with a full set of balls, so the “Your Mileage May Vary” disclaimer comes into play here.

Installing a set of Mousse Balls in a tire takes longer than installing a mousse, as each individual Mousse ball needs to be completely lubed up before being inserted into the tire. The same will hold true on successive installations – you’ll need to get each ball out of the old tire and re-lube it before installing in a new tire. As with a traditional mousse, proper lubrication is key, so make sure you use all of the lube in the tube on your balls. Mr. Wolf claims that the feel or air pressure equivalent of Mousse Balls can be adjusted by how many balls you put in a tire, and a softer feel is achieved by spacing the balls out in the tire. However, properly lubed balls are slippery, and recognizing the potential for the balls to move around inside the tire while riding, I opted for no space between balls. Mounting Mousse Ball laden tires is very similar to mounting any other tire with a mousse, and good technique makes all the difference in ease of installation. Balancing a ready to ride wheel took less weight than setups with other mousses I’ve balanced in the past.

TESTED: MOUSSE BALLS

Like any other mousse, Mousse Balls have a break in period – so give your balls a few rides to settle in. Other mousses are known for feeling dead (think of how memory foam doesn’t rebound) but Mousse Balls are the most lively feeling mousse system I’ve used, meaning that they feel more like tubes than other mousses. Leaving no space between balls is supposed to give a 16 + PSI feel, but I would argue that they feel more like 10-12 PSI once broken in. I’m happy with the feel and performance I’m getting with no space between the balls in the rear, but I’m still getting a bit of deflection out of the front - so I wish things were a touch softer. Opting to leave space between balls during install can set a rider up for a failure, as lubed balls can move around inside the tire while riding. This can lead to flat spots or worse, so I would not recommend spacing your balls out. If you want to soften your Mousse Balls further, get a mousse drill.

The lifespan of a set of Mousse Balls is entirely subjective. How you ride them, where you ride them, and the ambient temperature will all factor in to how long a set lasts for a given rider. The good news is that you can get 3 packs of replacement Mousse Balls, so if a few balls are starting to look a little tired, you can freshen up your set without having to buy another complete set. This is a much better alternative than playing the game of cut and stuff that many riders play to get one more tire of use out of a mousse.

All said and done, Mr. Wolf Mousse Balls have changed the mousse game in that they are the first universal foam inner tube replacement on the market. With Mousse Balls, riders can run whatever tires they want, and enjoy flat proof performance out of those tires – which is a hard thing to beat. After breaking in, our Mousse Balls feel like tubes set at 10 to 12 PSI, and have proven to provide great rim protection. Traction isn’t as good as other systems on the market, however. We’re looking forward to seeing how many tires we can go through before consuming a set of Mousse Balls, and I’m going to play with drilling the balls to find more traction. Mousse Balls certainly aren’t cheap, but given their flat proof performance and universal tire compatibility, they’re certainly worth it. Mousse Balls are available in the Upshift Store Here.

TESTED: MOUSSE BALLS

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BY TRAVIS GILL www.viajarMOTO.com

When one looks at a map of Europe, it’s not difficult to imagine the country of Italy shaped as a high-heeled boot with the “toe” kicking the triangle shaped island of Sicily – the largest island of the Mediterranean. However, Sardinia, although the second largest of the Med, is often overlooked. Tourists instead clamor to other crowded Italian destinations like Rome, Venice, Pompeii, and Pisa, which is a shame since Sardinia offers wonderful remote roads, over a thousand miles of exceptional coastline, forested mountain regions, and a uniqueness that is as diverse as any other country in Europe. Sardinia is an excellent choice for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of mainland Italy – especially those on two wheels with knobby tires.

Trans Euro Trail Options

Readers of our overland travels throughout Europe will have undoubtedly heard of the Trans Euro Trail (TET). This elaborate trail system covers an astonishing 80,000 km (49,700 miles) throughout almost all of the European countries and Sardinia is no exception. The Italian portion, that includes 750 km (465 miles) of trails in Sardinia, was designed by linesman Simone Amicabile, and provides the options of starting from the two northern ferry port destinations of Porto Torres and Santa Teresa Gallura.

Our discovery of Sardinia started in the most northern town of Santa Teresa Gallura. Since we had many interesting sites that were not near the TET route, we chose to forgo riding the TET as we zig-zagged throughout the island to reach the capital city of Cagliari on the southern tip. Fortunately, there are plenty of other excellent roads and trails that connect the five major provinces of Sardinia – Sassari, Oristano, Sud (South) Sardinia, Nuoro, and Cagliari.

Spectacular Sassari

We quickly put the ferry port of Santa Teresa Gallura in our side-view mirrors, and rode the short distance to Copa Testa. A narrow isthmus connects this peninsula to the mainland and is definitely worth the short stop to enjoy the stunning scenery. Multiple hiking trails create a “choose-yourown-adventure” that offer sensational views of the blue waters of the Mediterranean and large granite boulders that have been shaped by millenniums of wind and sea. We curiously hiked along the shore where we discovered the Copa Testa lighthouse, lizards, tortoises, and fields of purple ice-plants.

Riding along the northwest coast brought us to the picturesque seaside town of Castelsardo. Bright, pastel-colored homes are built on a rocky hill centered around the stone remains of a 12th-century Medieval castle that sits prominently above the shore. One could easily spend a few days here, enjoying afternoon strolls through the narrow streets and colorful shops, relaxing on the many nearby beaches, and soaking in the vibe of Italian island life.

There are many sites worth visiting within a short ride from Castelsardo. Just 1.5 hours southwest is Neptune’s Grotto - a beautiful cave complex that was discovered by fisherman in the 1700s and named after the Roman god of the sea. Over the last century, it has slowly morphed into a well-visited tourist spot that requires a tour guide to visit. However, Chantil and I both agreed, it was worth it – especially during the less-visited shoulder month of April.

Less than an hour south of Castelsardo is the charming Basilica of the Holy Trinity Saccargia. This Romanesque styled church was constructed entirely from local stones consisting of black basalt and white limestone and was completed in 1116 – nearly 300 years before Christopher Columbus landed on the shores of the Bahamas. In the 16th century it was abandoned, but recent efforts have restored it so that future generations can appreciate its beauty among the tranquil countryside.

Olden Oristano

It was during our ride through the central region of the Oristano province that we discovered the first of many ancient necropolises. These rock-cut tombs were the final resting place of the Ozieri culture that lived on the island from 3,200 to 2,800 BC. More than 2,400 tombs have been found in Sardinia with some of them being preserved archaeological sites. However, most of these Bronze Age tombs are just left in the open to explore – we found them on the sides of rural roads, and even wedged between homes and markets in small villages.

While visiting the Archaeological Park of Santa Cristina, we also learned about another ancient civilization of Sardinia – The Nuragic culture. This civilization occupied much of the island from 18th century BC to the Roman colonization of 200 BC. Although no written record of the Nuragic culture has been discovered, much of what is known of this ancient civilization can be learned through their architecture, religious sites, Bronze Age tools and weapons, and sculptures. While at the archeological site we marveled at the construction of the Nuragic well that was masterfully created over 3,000 years ago. The perfectly aligned and placed trapezoidal stones of the walls and ceiling were created with such astronomical precision that the sun’s rays shine directly into the bottom of the well at noon on the spring and autumn equinoxes!

As impressive as the architecture and craftsmanship of the sacred well was – it didn’t compare to the grandeur of another Nuragic structure we visited while passing through the Sud Sardinia province.

Sud (South) Sardinia Surprises

When we showed up at one of Sardinia’s most visited sites, we were not impressed. The parking lot was chock full of tour busses, cars were spilling out into the narrow roadway, and hundreds of tourists waited in a long line to purchase tickets. My anxiety of being around large crowds was already kicking in. “No way am I dealing with all that craziness!” I said into the Bluetooth headset to Chantil.

“I agree!”, she nodded. “I don’t understand why there are so many people here on a Monday.”

“No kidding. Normally Mondays are some of the best times to visit popular sites like this.”

After we rode away from the chaos of over-tourism, we pulled over and tried to understand why. A quick Google search of “Italian holidays” gave us the answer – today was Easter Monday.

We decided to find a nearby Airbnb and visit Su Nuragic the next morning with the hopes that it would be much less crowded – especially if we planned to be there when the gates opened at 9 AM.

The next morning, we arrived to an empty parking lot. Was the site closed? Perhaps after the Easter holiday? Thankfully we found the ticket booth open, were quickly provided a guide that spoke excellent English, and enjoyed the next hour of having a personalized tour of the entire Archeological site. Moral of the story – know the holidays of the country in which you are traveling and arrive to popular sites early in the morning, well before the tour busses.

We had no idea Su Nuraxi of Barumini would be so interesting. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is described as “The finest and most complete architectural example of the prehistoric Nuragic civilization from the 2nd millennium BC.” As we walked among the hundreds of stone hut foundations, we were fascinated by the preservation of the imposing 18-meter (59-foot) main tower, adjoining side towers, a functioning canal system, and retractable wall entrances. All this was very impressive, especially considering that most of humanity was still living in wooden huts or caves during this period of over 4,000 years ago.

After a bit of tourism, we were eager to balance it out with some sensational riding. Fortunately, the SS126 was just a short hour ride to the southwest. The website Motorcycle Diaries describes the SS126 as “Sardinia’s Stelvio”. Since I’d ridden many of the most popular passes of the Alps (UPSHIFT issue 70) we decided to give it a ride to find out for ourselves.

From the town of Arbus, the SS126 snakes 45km (28 miles) through the Mediterranean countryside of rolling hills covered in thick bushes and short trees. The riding was reminiscent of when I first started riding motorcycles in east San Diego County of southern California. The road is narrow, well maintained, not that crowded, and oh-so-twisty – perfect for a mid-morning spirited ride. Be sure to stop at the Temple of Antas and enjoy the remains of a Carthaginian-Roman temple, village ruins, and ancient limestone quarry. The SS126 continues south all the way to Sant’Antioco Island, but after crossing the Corsi Lake Bridge the road straightens out and passes through numerous small towns and villages.

Is the SS126 “Sardinia’s Stelvio”? Not so much. Although both offered well-maintained roads and spirited riding, the Stelvio is unmatched with its stunning Alpine views, and incredibly tight switchbacks. Winner Stelvio!

Notorious Nuoro

If you’re looking for more twisty roads to tame, then the SS125 is also worth your time. This route runs along the entire east coast of the island from the northern ferry port in Palau to the southern port of Cagliari, winding through 354 km (220 miles) of the most dramatic and remote regions of Sardinia. We didn’t experience this entire route, but thoroughly enjoyed the central portion that passes through the Nuoro Providence and Gennargentu National Park. It’s a popular route offering towering cliffs, deep gorges, and occasional views of the crystal-clear waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

Captivating Cagliari

After reaching the southern city of Cagliari, Chantil and I felt a bit saddened that we were coming to the end of an excellent road trip. Up to this point, Sardinia had surpassed our expectations with wonderful riding conditions, a relaxed island-style vibe, and an intriguing history – especially the Nuragic civilizations. However, our trip wasn’t over yet – we still had one more surprise at the National Archaeological Museum of Cagliari.

This small, but well-designed museum houses many artifacts of ancient Sardinia to include a large collection of pre-Nuragic, Nuragic age, and Byzantine age artifacts. However, the crown jewel of the museum is the exhibit known as the Mont’e Prama Giants. In 1974 Sardinian farmers were plowing their fields when they stumbled upon a portion of a limestone statue. They immediately knew that there was something special about it and contacted the authorities, who reached out to archeologists. An excavation began which uncovered 5,178 artifacts of various dimensions, however since there were no funds to reconstruct them, they were locked away in a museum vault in Cagliari and nearly forgotten over the next 30 years.

It wasn’t until 2005, and after some funding, that the universities of Cagliari and Sassari began the incredibly difficult process of reassembling the statues. By 2014, enough reconstruction had occurred to display 27 hero statues, with the Archaeological Museum of Cagliari displaying 18 of them: 13 boxers, 3 archers, and 2 warriors.

As we marveled at the collection of giants, some standing almost 7 feet tall, we contemplated about how much of the world is still yet to be discovered. How many more ancient artifacts are still buried below the surface waiting to be found? How many more curvy roads, and backcountry trails are still waiting for us to personally explore? Although our 17-days of motorcycle touring in Sardinia definitely lived up to our expectations, we still had many more places we wanted to see and experience.

The next morning, we excitedly rode aboard the next ferry that was bound for the island of Sicily and the capital city of Palermo. We had plans to stay for the weekend in the city and then hop aboard the next ferry bound for Tunisia, North Africa. More adventure awaits…

About viajarMOTO

Travis and Chantil Gill retired in March 2020 and started full-time motorcycle overlanding on their pair of BMW G650GSs. You can follow their journey through Europe and North Africa at www.viajarMOTO.com

Main image by Upshift Online

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The road to Pakbeng, Laos

Silk worms devouring fresh mulberry leaves, Laos

Typical remote Lao village along the road

No Receipt, No Money!

From the north of Thailand we crossed into Laos, the poorest country in Southeast Asia. The border crossing instantly threw us back to our ride through Africa. “A stamp in your passport? That will be 50 Baht

Sir!” At the next counter another 200 Baht was asked, after which it ended nicely in crescendo with a ‘whopping’ 2000 Baht (about 60 USD) because we were supposedly not allowed to enter the country without a guide.

“No receipt? No money sir!”

“Then we won’t let you through.”

Breaking this deadlock is usually not all that hard. We continued to smile kindly and confidently while addressing other tourists:

“You really don’t have to pay those fees, you know. The money just disappears into their own pockets!”

Well, that’s exactly what those border officials fear the most as it obviously screws up their entire lucrative business model. Caroline and I usually schedule half a day to cross a border. In this case it took us only 15 minutes of discussion before we rolled into Laos. We didn’t pay more than the official temporary import fee of 100 Baht, receipt included. Nevertheless, the border guards waved us off, enthusiastically smiling: “Enjoy Laos!” Thumbs up, barrier open. Off we go!

Spicy Breakfast? No Thanks!

Unlike Thailand, in Laos you don’t have to look far for dirt roads that actually get you from A to B. Moreover, what is marked on the map as a bold red or yellow line is often nothing more than a few stretches of hopelessly destroyed tar road interspersed with bumpy gravel where the locals struggle to even reach speeds of 10 mph.

Now Laos also ranks as the most bombed-out country ever. This country is faced with the terrible consequences of the Vietnam War every single day. Of the two million tons of bombs dropped here during Operation Barrell Roll (1964 – 1973), a huge portion remained unexploded. Still today, millions of bombs are scattered across the country, ready to go off. After each rainy season, some resurface, with the obvious disastrous consequences for the local people. Small, unused dirt tracks are to be avoided here at all times!

We worked our way past small villages consisting of nothing more than a handful of ramshackle houses, a few cows or buffaloes and the occasional chicken. Little kids were either cheerfully waving at us or were petrified, not knowing what was happening as two roaring bikes flew by. English isn’t of much help here and the dingy little restaurants are limited to Lao food only. While we had no trouble enjoying the local cuisine at night, downing a bowl of super spicy noodle soup for breakfast on an empty stomach is a different story. It meant a constant battle against sweat attacks, belching and persistent hiccups which usually made the mamas in the kitchen burst out laughing. We just longed for an ordinary sandwich.

Phonsavan, Laos

Kuang Si waterfalls, Laos

Did we mention the dust yet? Phonsavan, Laos Thathom, Laos

Tham Nan Non, Laos

Lao kids playing during the burning season, unaware of the devastating health effects

A well deserved afternoon nap. Kong Lor, Laos

Kong Lor caves, Laos

Phonsavan, Laos

Hundreds of miles of off road fun! Thathom, Laos

Crossing the Mekong River. Don Det, Laos

Pakbeng, Laos

Under a burning sun, we followed the trail along the Mekong River and reached Luang Prabang, home to every right-minded backpacker on a limited budget. There was a bakery in town, with crusty French baguette… and cheese from Australia… and delicious coffee! Now that’s what we call a great start of the riding day. We hung out there for a few days to enjoy ourselves, explore the area and provide some TLC to the bikes. The air filters got a more than deserved wash and a drizzle of fresh filter oil, and against all odds we scored 4 liters of German-made 10W60 full-synthetic oil for barely double the regular price. What more could we wish for?

Some More Sand, Anyone?

Long Tieng is a remote town that has long been known as “The most secret place on earth”. This former U.S. Air Force base from the Vietnam War era is hidden in the hills and the road leading there does not really excel in smoothness and rideability, to say the least. Bull dust, a thick layer of ultra-fine sand on a hard surface, awaited us. I can definitely appreciate a good stretch of sandy track, but Caroline was stressing out before we even started the ride. I am afraid sand will never be her cup of tea.

The road was full of heavy traffic. We were blinded by enormous dust clouds and often had no other option but to stop, hoping for a better stretch so we could overtake the big trucks. With the burning season in full swing, the smoke from the burning rice fields cut our breath and irritated our eyes until they were blood red. Talk about extreme air pollution!

What followed however was a good dose of pure off-road fun: hundreds of miles of dirt road through landscapes with the occasional local scooter with mom, three kids and a 50-kg bag of rice. One wonders how they keep it up...

A few days of well-deserved rest on Don Det, one of the 4000 islands in the smoke-free south of the country, completed our amazing three-week ride through Laos. What a country!

Time for an oil change. Chamapasak, Laos Thathom, Laos

It got a bit dusty that day. Laos

This scenic 350-mile loop weaves together rugged two-track with some of the most incredible pavement you’ll ever ride. Ranging from wide-open prairies to dense aspen forests and filled with historical points of interest and abundant wildlife, this route is a perfect introduction to what riding BDR is all about. RideBDR.com/BlackHills

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Stung Treng, Cambodia

The toll of 24/7 together for over a year :-) Don Det, Laos

Done with the burning rice fields. Green at last! Thakhek, Laos

Two leaking canoes and some scrap wood is all it takes to build a ferry. Don Det, Laos

Dry rice fields, the perfect dirt track. Phonsavan, Laos

Nature reclaiming the Angkor temples. Siem Reap, Cambodia

Nature reclaiming the Angkor temples. Siem Reap, Cambodia

Lunch time for the young buddhist monks, Palin, Cambodia

The Beauty and the Horror of Cambodian History

Crossing the border with Cambodia, the 25th country since we first started riding again about a year ago, was pretty much hassle free, though it seemed as if the border also heralded an even more extreme climate. Temperatures of around 40°C and 95% humidity aren’t really appealing to spend a casual summer vacation. Moreover, Cambodia also doesn’t really seem to be that must-do tourist hotspot dotted with points of interest and unforgettable views, so we heard from other travelers. There is one single exception though… and it is massive!

It was already well into the afternoon when, after two long riding days, we finally reached Siem Reap. We were drenched in sweat and instantly dumped the Huskies in the hotel parking lot to rush inside and seek relief under the air conditioning of the hotel lobby. When I went back outside to quickly change that clogged fuel filter on Caroline’s bike - nothing more than a mere 10-minute job – the heat struck me big time and I got really nauseous. All I could do was lie down on my bed, unable to lift a finger for the rest of the day. If it weren’t for the fact that Siem Reap is home to one of the most impressive historical sites in the world, our advice would definitely be: forget about even considering coming here during the month of April. But Angkor Wat, well, there is absolutely no way around it when you are in the vicinity.

At a quarter to five in the morning, we hit the road to go enjoy the sunrise over the historic site of Angkor. We didn’t wear more than shorts and a T-shirt. Safety above all for sure, but it should remain fun too. Now the Cambodians of around the twelfth century didn’t really care about a little temple more or less. In an area measuring 12 by 12 miles, you will find the greatest concentration of jaw dropping temples and ruins imaginable. Our motorcycles were the ideal means of transportation to visit the more remote sites - away from the large concentration of tourists. To see the sites gradually being reclaimed by nature is so unbelievably impressive. Giant tree roots slowly grow their way through the ancient temples as if nature was laughing in our faces: “I may not be the fastest, but in the end I always win!” The Angkor Wat complex definitely deserves a place in our top three historical sites we visited worldwide. By about eleven o’clock in the morning, we stumbled back into the hotel lobby, hopelessly yearning to cool off. Visiting Angkor Wat in the afternoon? Now that would have been insane! But Cambodian history also has a dark side. It wasn’t even that long ago when this country was notorious for the reign of terror of the Khmer Rouge. Under dictator Pol Pot’s regime, between 1975 and 1979, 25% of the population was murdered for political reasons in the most gruesome way imaginable. Entire families including little children ended up in one of the many mass graveskilling fields - scattered throughout the country. In Battambang we see heaps of human skulls and bones, remnants of a terrible regime. The look of it is truly shocking. After the blistering heat of the past few days, we never would have thought to get shivers down our spine.

One Night in Bangkok

From Cambodia on we followed the tar road along Pattaya, hotspot for many German-old-grampas-with-young-Thai-chick, to the metropolis of Bangkok. We met up with Rick again, a Dutch Yamaha rider we first met in Armenia and then in Iran. Our Australian friends Stu and Janell were also in the area on their BMW 650 GS’s. So we decided to explore Bangkok’s infamous nightlife together, diving into the many alleys full of half-naked Thai prostitutes, with or without a little extra in the panties. And although Caroline and Janell were always around, the men definitely didn’t suffer from a lack of attention from the Thai ‘beauties’. The many proppers who wanted to lure us in for an ‘unforgettable ping pong show’ however, were a little too pushy for our liking.

Oil plantations are big business in Malaysia

Done with the burning rice fields. Green at last! Thakhek, Laos

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Cameron Highlands, Malaysia

You better travel light they say… Laos

Skyscrapers in Kuala Lumpur are among the tallest in the world! Malaysia

Street art in Penang, Malaysia

Rickshaw riders enjoying an afternoon bag of glue. Penang, Malaysia

Raub, Malaysia

Managing expectations in Bangkok nightlife, Thailand

Don’t say you didn’t know! Bangkok, Thailand

Rickshaw riders enjoying an afternoon bag of glue. Penang, Malaysia

Modern Malaysia

We have finally left Thailand behind and are back in Malaysia, just about the most modern and wealthiest country in Southeast Asia. For the first time we saw long strings of big BMW’s, Harley’s and Kawasaki’s racing past. At the traffic lights, the vertically challenged Malaysian Riders are barely able to touch the ground, at least if they haven’t cut their toenails too short. With half the Touratech catalog mounted, ready to go round the world, they usually only choose major highways. Collecting stickers with the highway number seems like the national sport down here.

In the late 1990’s, the Petronas Twin Towers in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s capital, were considered the tallest buildings worldwide, standing 1230 ft tall. Today, the newly finalized Merdeka 118 Tower (2227 ft) ranks second worldwide, just behind Dubai’s Burj Khalifa. Riding our Huskies into the center of Kuala Lumpur feels pretty weird to be honest. Whereas we usually prefer the great wide open, we now ride against a backdrop of the tallest skyscrapers in the world. But most of all we came to Kuala Lumpur to ship our bikes. Southeast Asia has been truly amazing, but both Caroline and I have the feeling it’s definitely time for new horizons. In the next few days we will pack the bikes and put them on a plane to Australia. There’s quite a bit involved if we don’t want to impact our travel budget too much. We need wood and tools to build a crate, and we need a covered space away from the scorching sun or severe tropical thunderstorms. I had an appointment with a shipping agent at 10 am this morning. He finally showed up at 3pm with a bagful of excuses. Will it ever change? Cross fingers the shipping process works out ok.

Two leaking canoes and some scrap wood is all it takes to build a ferry. Don Det, Laos

WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!

WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!