Upshift Issue 78 - February 2023

WILDER ADVENTURES AWAIT

Take on bigger adventures with the new KTM 890 ADVENTURE. With a fine balance of long-distance comfort, excellent offroad ability, lightweight agility, and ride-enhancing tech, you can confidently charge off in search of more distant horizons. #DARE2ADV

GET

Versatility to the max to ensure every ride is an enjoyable one! Explore remote trails, enjoy mixed-surface adventures, or simply add a little more fun to your daily commute, the GASGAS ES 700 is a playful, do-it-all dual-sport performer. Mixing high-quality, street-legal performance with proven offroad capabilities, the ES 700 proudly brings the playful and vibrant GASGAS attitude to the street. And with its 13.5 liter fuel tank, comfortable riding position, high-spec equipment, and proven single-cylinder motor, there’s nowhere the ES 700 won’t go. How far you take it is up to you!

#GetOnTheGas

www.gasgas.com @gasgasusa @GASGAS.NorthAmerica

INSTA-ADV

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

ENTRY LEVEL MEETS PERFORMANCE

2O23

2-Stroke - 300

» Electric Start » Diaphragm Clutch for Easier Clutch Pull » Counter Balanced Engine

» Adjustable Power Valve » Smooth Power Delivery » Lower Seat Height

» New rear subframe enhances the look while narrowing side panels

» New redesigned air filter box increases airflow

» New translucent fuel tank

RESTORE YOUR FACTORY FINISH

MOTO SHINE MS1

THERE’S A NEW SCENT IN THE AIR

• Perfect, high-gloss shine

• Safe on all surface finishes

• Anti-static, dust repelling sheen

• Easy cleanup, mud releasing, protective film

• Fresh, scented formulation

YOUR FINISH

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PROCEED WITH CAUTION

Chinese motorcycle manufacturers are pushing hard into North American and European markets. Chinese motorcycles are nothing new. What is new is the sheer number of brands and models available at close to half the price of their Japanese and European competitors. Another pathway being used by Chinese manufacturers is purchasing existing brands that may be familiar, like Moto Morini and Benelli. Want a Chinese-made rally bike? That’s a thing too, for a quarter of the cost of a KTM Rally Replica.

Some of these bikes may be built to a reasonable standard while others are certainly of substandard quality. There is so little credible information to rely on that it is a bit of a guessing game. Additionally, the dealer network and general parts availability is a huge question mark. For new riders, a Chinese bike that costs half as much as a bike from a reputable manufacturer may sound like a great entry point. But what happens when that cheap bike breaks down and can’t be fixed, or parts are unavailable? It’s hard enough when there are too few dealer options for brands like Aprilia and Ducati, let alone these Chinese alternatives. It’s easy to see how a potential lack of parts and support can wreck a new rider’s hopes and dreams and cause someone to leave our sport before they really get started.

This is not to say that Chinese manufacturers are not capable of producing quality products. Whether we like it or not, China is manufacturing a significant number of the products that the west consumes. It often comes down to the desired cost/price dictating the spec. The question is whether a low price represents a good value. Is the lack of parts and service worth a lower initial purchase price? Time will tell what impact the growing influx of Chinese motorcycles will have on the industry. A data point we’ll never be able to capture is how many potential new riders get burned by a poor quality low-price option. Or how many are thrilled with the experience. While it’s certainly possible that the new Chinese bike with a price too good to be true will provide plenty of good experiences. We would argue that a well maintained used bike from a reputable brand will offer a greater value. That used bike also has a known network of dealers and parts availability with established OEMs to back you up. Buyer beware: Buy nice, or buy twice may very well apply to motorcycles too. Upshift Staff

CAUTION

Klim Launches New 2023 Motorcycle Gear, New Colors And Class-Leading Features

Continuing the legacy of developing the world’s most technical motorcycle gear, KLIM is introducing a slew of new and updated apparel for the 2023 riding season. This includes new designs of flagship touring products such as the Latitude and Altitude, redesigned industry-leading apparel such as the Badlands Pro A3, exciting new off-road helmets and goggles, as well as new approaches to everyday street gear.

For the ambitious adventure rider, the blockbuster Badlands Pro A3 Jacket and Pant was redesigned for 2023 and remains the only CE AAA-rated all-weather GORE-TEX textile motorcycle garment on the market. The coveted CE AAA rating, certified to standard EN 17092-2, has historically been awarded only to leather outerwear and racing suits, which all carry significant heat, bulk and flexibility compromises by nature. The feature-packed Badlands Pro A3 Jacket, first released in a limited-edition run in 2021, which immediately sold out, returns in multiple colors for 2023 with new trims and exceptional updates to overall venting, fit and armor placements to keep it at the forefront of adventure motorcycle protective gear.

The company’s ever-expanding suite of touring gear includes updates to highly popular cornerstones of the line – the women’s Altitude Jacket and Pant, the men’s Latitude Jacket and Pant, the mesh warm-weather men’s Marrakesh Jacket and Pant – all redesigned with a significant focus on improving fit, storage, mobility, ventilation and comfort.

The new industry-leading F3 Carbon Pro Off-Road Helmet was engineered based off the highly popular F3 Carbon Helmet, now using next-gen energy absorbing Koroyd® technology for added safety and ventilation, and achieving better aerodynamics with a stronger peak visor. The F3 Carbon Pro Off-Road Helmet ECE is the lightest ECE off-road helmet KLIM was willing to make to maintain this level of impact protection.

New for 2023 is a line of high performance purpose-built base layers with chemical-free fabric technology for cooling, moisture-wicking and evaporation for any hot-weather riding activity. The women’s Solstice -1.0, KLIM’s coolest base layer, is a solid weave that can also be worn as standalone layers across the line. The men’s Aggressor -1.0 line, now in its second generation, is a mesh weave meant to be worn as a base layer, using riding-specific construction redesigned for exceptional comfort.

Wherever you ride, and whatever you ride, KLIM has your entire season of touring, adventure riding, dirt biking and dual-sport adventures covered. Go to www.klim.com to see the whole collection.

Scorpion EXO XT9000 Carbon

The all-new XT9000 Carbon was engineered to meet the demands of the serious Adventure Rider by striking the perfect balance of features and benefits for both on and off-road. Each helmet is carefully hand crafted using the latest 3K Carbon fiber material, providing superior strength and extreme light weight.

The Peak Visor’s aerodynamics were designed to help keep buffeting and lift to a minimum when riding at high speeds. And if the highway is your primary terrain, or if you’re riding away from the sun, the peak visor can be easily removed to allow an even more streamline aerodynamic profile. When your adventures take you off-road where goggles are preferred, the face shield features a tool-less system allowing you to easily and quickly swap your shield for goggles. The wide eye port allows for greater peripheral vision and accommodates most sizes and brands of goggles. Another unique feature only seen in Scorpion EXO helmets is the Airfit ® liner inflation system, which allows you to customize the fit of your cheek pads, which also helps significantly reduce wind noise, buffeting and lift. Sizes: XS to 3XL. MSRP: $499.95. www.scorpionusa.com

New Trail Tech Portable Air Compressor

Trail Tech is excited to announce the immediate availability of the Portable Air Compressor. This hand-held Lithium-Ion powered air compressor is the solution for all your tire needs, trailside or otherwise. Smart- with digitally adjustable pressure setting, accurate pressure sensing, USB-A output for charging devices in the backcountry, and an LED flashlight. Rugged- featuring a tough aluminum housing, internally threaded air hose connection, large glove-friendly buttons, and an optional hard-sided carrying case. A portable air compressor is an indispensable piece of equipment on any motorcycle ride, whether it is used or not. The Portable Air Compressor is more than essential; it’s useful. It makes airing up after an off-road section quick & easy, checking and topping up tires before every ride becomes simple, and it can recharge or charge any mobile device while you ride. When not in service as a crucial companion for two-wheeled travel, the Portable Air Compressor is just as handy in countless other applications: Automotive, ATV, UTV, Mountain Bike, and Sports Equipment. Go to www.trailtech.net for more information.

Features

• High-capacity 5000mAh battery

• Internally cooled for extended run times and improved battery health.

• Pressure range from 2psi all the way up to 150psi.

• Outstanding two-year warranty.

• Highly packable sleek design weighing only 1.1 lbs.

• “Set it and forget it” programable pressure setting.

• Integrated battery pack for charging devices.

• USB-C for simple charging.

KTM 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE

Rushing parts to the market has never been our goal. Hence we spent nearly a year developing and carefully testing our 2021-2022 KTM 1290 Super Adventure R/S products. The greatest challenge was designing and developing a set of properly performing crash bars!

Please visit our YouTube channel for the o cial DropTest video!

model shown.

PHOTO: RALLY ZONE SAUDI ARABIA

THE NEW WORLD CONQUEROR

WORLD-CLASS DURABILITY AND FUNCTIONALITY / KEEPS YOU DRY AND COMFORTABLE IN GLOBALLY DIVERSE CLIMATES / CUSTOM-BUILT KLIM/D3O® AERO PRO ARMOR / WORLD’S FIRST CE AAA-RATED ALL-WEATHER GEAR

BADLANDS PRO A3 JACKET & PANT / KRIOS PRO HELMET

PHOTO: RALLY ZONE

PHOTO: RALLY ZONE

PHOTO: RALLY ZONE

PHOTO: RALLY ZONE

PHOTO: RALLY ZONE SAUDI ARABIA

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: MOTOMORGANA

CHOOSE TO HAVE IT ALL

Built to excel in the dirt and on the tarmac, the new Tiger 1200 Rally Pro is the all-new globe-busting, desert-crossing, mountain-conquering adventure champion.

Powered by a new 1200 triple engine, the unique T-Plane design blends the low-speed capability of a twin with the top-end performance of a triple, for excellent traction in tough conditions, and supreme performance on the road. Add to that an all-new chassis that’s significantly lighter and more agile, long travel semi-active suspension and feature-packed technology, for unprecedented capability off-road and on.

The all-new Tiger 1200 Rally Pro. It’s time to reset your adventure expectations. From $22,500 MSRP. Find out more at triumphmotorcycles.com

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: MOTOMORGANA

PHOTO: ELY WOODY

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

Available Spring 2023

THE WORLD JUST GOTALOT SMALLER WITHTHE POWERFUL PERFORMANCE,ADVANCEDELECTRONICS,ANDANY-ROAD CAPABILITIES OFTHEALL-NEW2023V-STROM 800DE.

Shift your adventure into a higher gear. Developed from a clean sheet of fresh ideas, the new Suzuki V-STROM 800DE features an advanced new parallel-twin 776cc powerplant complemented by dynamic rider aids, long-travel suspension, and spoke-style wheels. So, when you’re idling at the crossroads of on- or off-road adventure, the V-STROM 800DE is there to advance whatever direction you choose.

Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2022 Suzuki Motor USA, LLC

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY OLIVIER DE VAULX

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY OLIVIER DE VAULX

In Nepal, the Himalayas are like an impassable barrier for the average traveler. Luckily for us, the Mustang valley offers a safe corridor to cross the mountain range, with dirt roads and small villages along the way. Thanks to Christophe Noel from FarXplorer, we were able to ride trusted Royal Enfield Himalayans from the jungle surrounding Pokhara to the entrance of the valley, as described in the first part of this story. Now that we are about to enter the Mustangs, we have a new plan: for the next few days, we will ride less miles and dive deeper into the Nepali culture. A pretty different approach than a traditional motorcycle ride, where success is often measured by the distance traveled, but one that fits this country much better.

Playing Indiana Jones

Our very first night of camping is held on a field next to a tiny village, located at the bottom of a deep canyon. Above our heads, what we first took as a power line is really the curve of a narrow suspended bridge. The locals crossing it by foot look like ants in the distance, and we’re amazed by their bravery while also relieved that we won’t cross it ourselves. Little did we know that we would have to deal with one of these fragile-looking structures the next morning! Christophe is all smiles, but for us foreign riders used to concrete bridges, the general feeling is of a concerning lack of confidence. Having only to walk on this footbridge wouldn’t be that easy, but crossing on a motorcycle seems totally insane. As if the whole thing wasn’t challenging enough, there was a tight corner before the entrance of the bridge, followed by two rocky steps. Whatever, there’s no room for cowardice and along with the peer pressure at maximum intensity, we slowly start to roll, going through one by one. The treacherous corner is taken at trials speed, the two following steps taken cautiously, and there it is, a long and bright line dividing the black void of the canyon in front of us.

There are some cables on the side that act like a fence guard, and as long as the handlebar is not caught in it, we should be safe. The engineers who designed the Royal Enfield Himalayan did a good job with the low center of gravity and the long first speed, a combination that allows us to cross at a slow but steady pace. We’re sitting straight, looking ahead and never on the side, the eyes on the exit, so far away. After twenty excruciating seconds, the wheels are on the ground again… we did it! All the pressure is suddenly gone, and using the need for more pictures as a perfect excuse, we do it again, just for fun. This time, I even use the second gear, the extra speed giving more stability. Yet, a quick glance on the side to see the river at the bottom of the gorge is all that I allow myself. We might be getting used to the feeling of riding on tiny planks supported by cables of unknown condition, high in the sky, but the path forward is way too narrow to show off and take any real risk. We’re not real Indiana Jones yet!

Lost paradise

Like in the movies, there’s always a treasure to be found on the other side of the bridge. This time, the golden tokens take the shape of autumn leaves, all shiny underneath the Nepali sun. The valley in front of us is surrounded by the snowy summits of the Annapurna, but we’re riding in forests of pines and oak trees. A lazy river goes through, and a narrow trail follows. For a little while it becomes more of an enduro ride than an adventure ride, and the awesome dirt pushes us to play with our Royal Enfield bikes in a way they were never designed for. This is so much fun, and the exhilarating ride only stops when we reach a farm, hidden in the heart of the valley.

The building is painted in bright colors that match the dresses of the women crouched in front of the porch. They welcome us with a warm smile, and we barely have the time to remove helmets and jackets before they offer us some delicious cups of tea. On wooden shelves built outside, thousands of apples are drying under the sun, while hens and goats wander freely in the orchards. This is a timeless scene, one of those rare moments in life when you experience a total sense of peace. We lay on the grass, barely speaking, soaking up the scenery, the light, the entire moment. The women are back to the grueling job of sorting potatoes, while one rider, who’s a mechanic by trade, fixes a small bicycle for the kid of the house. We could stay here for ever.

Annapurna Peaks

But there’s more to discover in Nepal, and soon we’re back on the trail. Leaving the green valley through the same bridge that we once feared but now enjoy so much, we’re riding on a paved road along a larger river. Just before the town of Kagbeni, we take a sharp turn toward the mountains and start a steep climb. Hairpins are coming in rapid succession, and it’s easy to scrape the footpegs on the pavement. Going up seems to bring us closer to the sharp summits of the Himalayas. This stunning view makes it hard to focus on the riding, and if you don’t take your eyes off the snowy giants, it would be easy to miss the apex of the next corner and dive from the cliff! It’s safer to stop on the shoulder of the road to enjoy the view safely. The air is perfectly still, the atmosphere quiet, and we feel the privilege of being almost alone in this remote backcountry, facing the gigantic peaks. We admire Nepali horses grazing rare grass clumps behind a stone wall, their colorful saddle blankets contrasting nicely with the blue sky. Starting our motorcycles again, we keep climbing. The elevation is taking its toll on the not so powerful 411cc mono cylinders. Still, we manage to keep a decent pace, and we soon see Jarkhot in the distance. This small village is perched on a rocky headland overhanging a big cliff. From a distance, with the mountain range in the background, the view is stunning. A few wild horses cross the road in front of us. Not long ago, they were the only means of transportation in the region. Now that motorcycles took over, they are roaming in the hills, probably enjoying this newfound freedom.

Yak burgers and skilled pilots

We pass a small monastery surrounded by yellow trees and arrive at the edge of the town. Leaving the bikes, we enter the narrow and shady streets of Jarkhot by foot, almost in stealth mode, as to not disturb the quiet afternoon. The houses made of stones and mortar have ridiculously small doors and even smaller windows. We seldom cross people, and when we do, it’s often old ladies carrying bundles of wood. Dogs are sleeping in the shade, indifferent to the sound of our dusty boots on the cobbled streets. We discover monasteries and temples, artistically painted. This is another enclave out of time, and we feel grateful for just being here, silent witnesses of a different way of life.

Lower Mustang is full of these little surprises. Every village has its own atmosphere, and we follow the same ritual each time: we park the bikes and walk in the streets, saying “Namaste” to the people we meet. In Kagbeni, next to the small market near the river, we find a few shops to buy blankets as well as a “Yac Donald” restaurant. It’s basically just a tea house with a fun name, a smart marketing move by the owner, a young Nepali woman with a degree from an American University. There, we pause for lunch and order yak burgers as well as traditional Dal Bhat dishes.

In Jomsom, we refill the tanks at the local gas station. There’s no pump here, just a friendly woman with small plastic containers that she uses to fill up our motorcycles. It takes forever, but who cares? We sip a coffee at the cafe next door, on a terrace surrounding the nearby airport. The trekkers from all over the world are coming here by plane, the pilots flying at low altitude over the runway to clear it from animals before doing a steep 45° angle turn to align themselves for landing. In short final, the plane is just a few yards over the roof of a hotel recklessly built on the path. The pilots are skilled, the passengers thrilled - and also probably scared - and we enjoy the show.

Apples and A hidden gem

It’s probably Marpha that makes the most lasting impression on us. Reaching the town in the afternoon, with the low sun spreading its rays through the multicolored prayer flags, we wander through the narrow streets to finally climb the steps of an old monastery. From there, we have a perfect 360° view of the village. Every roof is a terrace, and most of them are used as a platform to dry apples. No wonder why the town is called the apple capital of Nepal! Most tourists wouldn’t see much more of this charming community, but Christophe has an unexpected surprise for us. There’s indeed a secret place hidden in these narrow streets, and thanks to a friend of a friend, he heard of it and found a way in. After almost 10 minutes of negotiations in front of an anonymous house, he waves us to enter. We go through the dark rooms, walk over the stables, and finally reach a tiny door on the rooftop. Hidden beneath a brick wall for 150 years and just recently reopened, this door leads to a secret temple that even the habitants of the village had never heard of - and are still not allowed to visit. Yet here we are, lowering our head to enter the sanctuary. Inside this small room painted in red, three Buddhas surrounded by paintings and offerings are looking at us. Two dozen books are stored here, each one valued at more than twenty thousand US dollars. The owners of the house live in fear of being robbed and only some privileged people have access to this temple. This is an overwhelming experience, one that can’t be replicated and will stay with us forever.

Leaving town, still unable to believe our luck, we are distracted from our thoughts by a herd of yaks wandering in front of us. Bigger than cows and definitely wilder in behavior, they seem like relics of an old time. But it’s more likely us who are out of place here. It doesn’t matter, each day in the Lower Mustang has been full of positive emotions, and we just wonder how going to the Upper Mustang the next morning can get any better.

Special thanks to Christophe Noel, the CEO and owner of FarXplorer www.farxplorer.com for the opportunity to join this unique trip to Upper Mustang; Thanks to Suzan, who’s probably the best guide to visit Kathmandu and go off the beaten paths; Thanks to Biki and the FarXplorer crew members, who fed us and took care of our bikes as well as our tents; Thanks to Donna, Bob, Joey, John and Chris who coped with my need for pictures at any given moment; Last, but not least, thanks to all the anonymous Nepali we met along the way, you guys are awesome!

IN THE SADDLE ON THE LATEST BACKCOUNTRY DISCOVERY ROUTE

WORDS: NATHAN FANT PHOTOS: ELY WOODY

As I slide my foot forward to drop the kickstand and turn off the sound of my idling engine, I am surrounded by a scene from another century. The rocky canyons in front of me open up to a limitless view of the horizon, with untouched desert in all directions. The only sound I hear is the gentle breeze of the wind; it carries with it the slight scent of sagebrush. I am stopped at a little oasis in the desert, a rocky canyon along the Oregon BDR that feels like the place a cowboy would have stopped at while driving cattle through this region 150 years earlier. A spring feeds a pool from which cows stop to drink. Following the sounds of water trickling down the sides of the rocky canyon walls, I hike up to the source to fill my bladder with the most refreshing spring water. Our Oregon BDR Expedition Team is deep in the heart of the vastly unpopulated area in southeast Oregon, on the newly released Oregon Backcountry Discovery Route.

THE ORBDR ROUTE

One of the most anticipated BDR routes, the Oregon BDR is 700 miles from start to finish and is divided into 7 sections, ranging from as little as 63 miles up to 150 miles between fuel stops. The route starts in the tiny, one-store town of Denio Junction, NV, and ends in the beautiful rolling hills of Hood River, Oregon at the Columbia River. After nearly five years of scouting work, not only is the Oregon Route finally here to satisfy the itch of every two wheeled adventure traveler, it is magnificent in its portrayal of natural beauty and diversity of terrain that Oregon offers. Beginning with high desert open sagebrush land in the south, the route traverses Ponderosa Pine forests with extensive lava rock formations in central Oregon, and ends in the Cascade mountain range, with its beautiful Douglas Fir forests, volcano peaks, rivers, and lakes on the northern border. While the world may picture Oregon as a lush, green rainforest, when you ride this route, you’ll experience diversity beyond your wildest imagination.

SECTION 1: DENIO JUNCTION TO PLUSH

The word that comes to mind for Section 1 is remote. Standing atop Beatys Butte, there is a 360 degree view of land as far as the eye can see. As we rode through this high desert terrain, our contact with civilization was limited to remote cattle ranches. The route follows wide open desert two-track roads that become fairly rocky and challenging at times. Later in the riding season, as temperatures heat up and precipitation becomes rare, roads can become more sandy with loose silt beds that nearly swallow your front tire. Caution is the best practice but for the confident rider, this type of challenge is one that is welcome.

The route in this section takes you farther away from civilization than most BDRs. This is the longest section between fuel stops, at about 150 miles. Lodging is rustic and will need to be booked well in advance, so plan accordingly. Dispersed camping is widely available and intensely beautiful. We camped at Hart Mountain Hot Springs the first night and enjoyed a relaxing soak in the springs before bed. A much needed bit of rejuvenation for the challenge of Fandango Canyon ahead.

SECTION 2: PLUSH TO CHRISTMAS VALLEY

Section 2 starts in the small town of Plush, Oregon that got its name from a local card game played in the 1800’s during which the town was a hub for cattle and sheep ranchers. Leaving town, the roads quickly change from paved, to a wide gravel road, to a rough and narrow two-track that requires a choice between the high line or the low line on each side of the track. Before long, you’ll be traveling through undeveloped roads of the Coyote Hills and down into Rabbit Canyon, then alongside the seasonal Lake Abert. This section can be especially sandy and rocky at times the further north you get on Sheep Rock Road and Fandango Canyon. The area was once the bottom of a sea bed which left behind large areas of sand deposits. Those sand sections are accompanied by ever more challenging rocky sections, and by the time you get to Fandango, you’ll be in some of the most challenging rocky terrain on the main route. You’ll know you’re through the worst of it as you begin your descent into Christmas Valley.

SECTION 3: CHRISTMAS VALLEY TO SUNRIVER

Our stay at the Lakeside Motel was a welcome rest from the previous day’s rocky, hot, desert punishment. The many, many rocks we bounced over led to not only the previous days trailside flat repair, but a badly damaged front tire to change this morning before starting the day. Tire repairs complete, we made our way north, and were grateful for some time to relax a little and enjoy the scenery. Just outside of Christmas Valley, we stopped at Crack in the Ground, an aptly named land feature that includes a short hike in an interesting two-mile-long, 70-foot-deep crack in the earth. Just past that, Green Mountain offers a stunning 360 degree view of the surrounding area and also offers a great spot to camp.

Landscapes change as you leave Christmas Valley, offering up fragrant Juniper trees, giant Ponderosa Pines, and red volcanic gravel roads. We found ourselves soaking up the quintessential Central Oregon adventure riding with all of its high desert sights and smells. This section has more than a few barbed wire fences. The rule is to leave it how you found it.

There are two optional side trips in Section 3, but both are worth visiting if you’ve got the time. For star gazers or those looking for a great campsite, the Pine Mountain Observatory is a worthwhile stop, with views of the local landscape and OHV trails for miles. Newberry National Volcanic Monument is a delightful side trip with two sparkling lakes that fill the caldera left by ancient volcanic activity. These pristine lakes are home to both camping and cabins.

Dropping into Sunriver involves one of the most fun sections of dirt on the route. This section includes banked turns and roads that are textured to entertain adventure riders! This section was nicknamed “The Luge” by the film team as it reminded us of a bobsled run for your motorcycle! So fun!

PAN AMERICA POWER

SECTION 4: SUNRIVER TO SISTERS

As I emerge from my tent on the 4th day of the Oregon BDR filming expedition, I am greeted by the soothing sound of the Deschutes River as it meanders by our campsite. Day 4 is about when I start to feel in the BDR groove, when I can completely focus on enjoying the experience and living in the moment.

This is the shortest section of the route at 63 miles, but what it lacks in distance it more than makes up for in beauty and fun riding challenges, especially the optional harder section up to the top of Three Creek Butte with snow-peaked volcanoes visible in every direction!

It wasn’t long before we were in prime recreation territory for the nearby town of Bend. Watch for hikers and bicyclists in this area, and don’t forget to ride respectfully!

The town of Sisters is named after the nearby Three Sisters Mountains. It is a western theme town with great food, some cute lodging options, and a chance to stop by a motorcycle shop to buy a tube if you need one... you probably do after all of the rocky fun you’ve been having!

SECTION 5: SISTERS TO DETROIT

At this point in the route, there is another sense of transition, similar to the turning point from vast open high desert in Sections 1 & 2. I felt the Cascades calling me home the further north into Section 5 we went. Stopping at Skylight Cave, we ventured into a cavern that once contained an underground lava flow with rooftop vents to allow columns of heavenly light to illuminate your stay.

Mountains mean something out west. Views of the snow-peaked, craggy, towering giants in all directions atop Cache Mountain, an optional harder section that challenges you with a little of everything (deep sand, rocky step-ups, and deep loose volcanic rocks), reminds you of what the Oregon BDR has been hinting at the whole time. Volcanoes are the true rulers of this land, as also evidenced by the caves, hot springs, and volcanic rocks all around you. A spectacular view that was worth all of the challenge it took to get there.

The Santiam OHV area adds a fun bit of sandy whoops to the mix, which we quite enjoyed! The majority of primitive roads in this area are lined with black, volcanic sand. When wet, this sand is hero dirt. When it’s dry, it can be challenging and deep.

SECTION 6: DETROIT TO GOVERNMENT CAMP

The story of Detroit Oregon is one of adversity, survival, and rebirth as the town was hit by one of Oregon’s most devastating wildfires of 2020. The town and surrounding forest is still in the process of rebuilding and will be for many years. Some parts of Section 6 will remain closed for at least a few years as wildfire reclamation efforts are underway.

One of the best parts about the BDR organization is the positive economic impact riders can have on small towns who have fallen on hard times. As you pass through the town of Detroit, consider getting supplies there. If we all do our part, dollars spent will really make a difference in the future of this fantastic little town along the Oregon BDR!

As we rode deeper into the dense forest canopy, shade was a big shift from our initial days in the wide open desert with its intense sun. This forest also gave us our first opportunity to ride in mud. It was deep, wide, tire swallowing mud in puddles long enough to make you stop and wonder if you’ll have the momentum and nerve to get through.

SECTION 7: GOVERNMENT CAMP TO HOOD RIVER

Section 7 starts with your first up close look at the tallest mountain in Oregon. At over 11,000 feet, Mt. Hood dominates the skyline. A stop at the White River Sno-Park gives you a chance to appreciate this towering behemoth and all of its snow-capped beauty.

Barlow Wagon Road, a road emigrants traveled in the mid 1800’s, delights the imagination with an opportunity to ride on the historic Oregon Trail. Riding respectfully on these historic roads gave us a chance to slow down and hear the echoes of folks nearing the end of their journey, and to see Oregon through their eyes.

Bennett Pass Road, built in the 1930’s as a way to access the High Prairie Forest Service Guard Station, is narrow, rocky and built into the side of a cliff. Your attention will constantly be torn between the technical riding, the breathtaking views of Mt. Hood, and the lush forest around you.

With Mt. Hood in your rearview and Mt. Adams in front of you, you’ll descend into Hood River, ending at the mighty Columbia River. The northern end of the Oregon BDR sends you off with one last reminder of the intense natural beauty the Pacific Northwest displays for all of us to preserve and protect. After all, preserving our privilege to ride motorcycles in the backcountry is the primary goal of the BDR.

Main image by Upshift Online

Alpinestars Tech 7 Enduro Drystar Boots

Adventure bikes are essentially big dirt bikes, and when it comes to riding them off-road, there is really only one type of boot that’s worth using: a motocross boot. Quality MX boots provide the best possible protection, while offering other benefits such as enhanced bike grip, foot support, and bike control. However, most motocross boots aren’t waterproof, which means that any time there is rain, snow, water crossings, or other wet things on a ride, you’re rolling the dice on getting wet feet. To combat this, some riders will roll the dice by giving up protection and the other benefits afforded by a motocross boot to use a waterproof touring boot. Thanks to the Alpinestars Tech 7 Enduro Drystar boots, you no longer have to roll the dice at all, because these boots are fully featured motocross boots that are also waterproof.

The Tech 7 Enduro Drystar takes the Tech 7 Enduro (T7E) and adds a Drystar breathable waterproof membrane to the boot’s construction. This makes the boot waterproof all the way up to the top of the cuff, which comes up to the bottom of the boot’s top buckle. As long as you don’t over-top the cuff, or have water running down In-The-Boot pants into your T7E Drystar boots, no amount of rain, snow, mud, or other moisture is going to cause your feet to get wet. This means the T7E Drystar’s waterproof performance is on par with the best waterproof touring boots out there. But unlike waterproof touring boots, the Tech 7 Enduro Drystar is also an awesome motocross style boot.

TESTED: Alpinestars Tech 7 Enduro Drystar Boots

The Tech 7 series boots hit the sweet spot between protection, comfort, and control in a motocross boot. On the protection front, these boots have robust shin, calf, Achilles tendon, heel, foot, ankle, and hyperflexion protection, that’s well suited to the hazards posed by off-road riding. Comfort wise, Tech 7s are outstanding. After more than a year of using Tech 7 Enduro, and Tech 7 Enduro Drystar boots for all types of riding ranging from multi-day adventure rides to long days of superhard enduro rock donkey nonsense, I have zero comfort related issues. I’ve also come to really appreciate the Tech 7’s dual hinge, medial grip, foot support, and tactile feel, which all add up to a boot that has great bike control. The bottom line is that Tech 7s let you have it all: well protected and supported feet, ankles, and lower legs that will remain comfortable on all sorts of rides, all the while letting you feel connected to any sort of bike.

The word Enduro in the boot’s name means that these boots are sporting a different sole than their regular Tech 7 brethren. The enduro sole is specifically designed to provide outstanding grip on the pegs and on any off-road surface. Whether you need to make a clutch dab on a slippery wet rock, or you’re out in the desert exploring a slot canyon, the Enduro soles grip and hike quite well for a fully protected MX boot. As someone who is hiking around to get angles for shots on almost every ride, I’ve come to really appreciate how well Tech 7 Enduro boots (both Drystar and non Drystar) hike. While I wouldn’t want to hike to the bottom of the Grand Canyon with them, I never think twice about making a move to get up or down some terrain feature to get an angle for a shot. Adventure riding often involves short hikes to get to some cool objective like a viewpoint or old historic site, and Tech 7 Enduros are great for making these quick excursions.

When combined with a waterproof over-the-boot pant, the Tech 7 Enduro Drystar boots are a great way to keep your feet nice and dry. About the only way you’ll get wet feet with these boots is by overtopping the cuff from stepping in water that’s too deep or running an in-the-boot pant where water can run down into the boot from your pant legs. As long as you’re cognizant of what you’re doing while wearing in-the-boot pants by doing things such as not going full send through water crossings, getting wet feet isn’t likely. However, if your inner child gets the better of you and you give said water crossing your best Moses impersonation, you’ll get to experience the one downside of the Tech 7 Enduro Drystar: once these boots are wet on the inside, they’ll take longer to dry out than a non-waterproof boot.

TESTED: Alpinestars Tech 7 Enduro Drystar Boots

TESTED: Alpinestars Tech 7 Enduro Drystar Boots

Temperature wise, the Tech 7 Enduro Drystar boots are slightly warmer than a regular MX boot. When paired with a good sock, this difference is very slight. That being said, I would opt for non-Drystar boots if I were setting out on a hot and dry ride in the middle of summer. For everything else, and for any ride where I know there’s a chance of encountering wet things on the ride, the Tech 7 Enduro Drystar is my go-to.

The Alpinestars Tech 7 Enduro Drystar boots are great for off-road and adventure riding. With these boots, riders can quite literally have it all: the protection, comfort, and control of a quality MX boot, and top shelf waterproof protection. Cold and wet feet have an incredible ability to really take the fun out of a ride, which is why some riders will put themselves at greater risk of getting hurt by using waterproof touring boots instead of MX boots. Yet with the Tech 7 Enduro Drystar, riders no longer have to make this gamble. Whether you’re gearing up for an afternoon ride on some muddy trails, or you’re setting out for weeks on the road and there is rain in the forecast, the Tech 7 Enduro Drystar is a great boot. For more information visit: www.alpinestars.com.

BY CHAD DE ALVA

HUSQVARNA NORDEN 901 SUSPENSION UPGRADE - STAGE 1

Husqvarna Motorcycles describes the Norden 901 as an adventure touring motorcycle that excels at every adventure, whether that means riding on road or across rugged terrain. The marketing folks are correct – the Norden is comfortable and capable, making it a great bike for traveling and exploring – as long as that means mellow offroad riding. Try to smash through some whoops, or jump the bike like you’re riding the Norden’s orange cousin, the KTM 890 Adventure R, and you’ll quickly find the limits of the Norden’s stock suspension. The Norden is built on the 890 platform, which means that there are a number of WP Suspension OEM options for seriously upping the Norden’s offroad performance, while retaining the attributes that make the bike great in the first place. This is the first serving of how you can have your Norden off-road performance cake, and eat it too.

Stock suspension on the Norden 901 consists of WP Apex forks with 220mm of travel and adjustable compression and rebound. Out back, the Norden has a WP Apex shock with 215mm of travel and hand adjustable pre-load and a rebound clicker. These parts do a great job on the road, and they are more than capable of soaking up gravel, corrugations, and the small bumps and obstacles found in the dirt. Yet as soon as the rider starts to push it off-road by hitting G-outs, jumps, whoops, larger trail obstacles, and just riding the bike like it’s a big dirt bike, (which is something you very much want to do) the Norden’s stock shock will quickly prove to be the limiting factor. The effect is even more pronounced when you add luggage to the equation. Thankfully, WP Suspension makes something called a Xplor Pro shock, and it’s one of the most impressive parts you can install on a motorcycle.

If you’re familiar with KTM, you may have heard of WP’s “Pro Component Suspension.” If not, know that Pro Components are as good as motorcycle suspension gets. The suspension KTM, Husky, and Gas Gas use on their factory rally bikes? Pro Components. The suspension Chris Birch rides on his 890 R? Pro components. The suspension that riders who want the best parts money can buy use – you guessed it: Pro Components. What’s neat about Pro Component suspension is that both the shock and forks can be configured to match the Norden’s stock lengths, or set up at extended lengths for even more off-road performance.

While any WP dealer should be able to get a Norden owner set up with a Xplor Pro shock, we opted to go with the industry leader: Solid Performance. These guys handle more WP parts than any other dealer in the country, and they are the guys that show up to events like the KTM Rally to provide official WP support for the event. The point is – Solid Performance knows WP suspension.

Getting a Xplor Pro shock, or any WP suspension parts or service from Solid Performance is straightforward. Start by filling out the suspension service form on the website, shooting them an email, or giving them a call. Where some suspension shops only have you fill out a suspension service form before working on your suspension, the Solid Performance process has you corresponding directly with the master tuner who is actually going to build your suspension. The end result is that working with Solid Performance feels much more personalized than transactional, and their additional communication and information gathering clearly translates into suspension that’s better set up for you as a unique rider.

When you first crack open the box containing your Pro Component suspension, you can’t help but hear a little “aaaahhhh” choir note in your head, like you’ve just opened a box containing the holy grail. Pro Components are truly something to behold – Notice the machined body, the red anodized bits like the compression adjusters and the preload collar. Once you’ve managed to recoil your tongue and close your jaw, get the shock installed on your bike – the hardest part of which is tetris-ing out the stock Norden shock. With the new shock installed, get all geared up and ready for a ride – then check your sag.

I have to give Solid Performance credit here. They absolutely nailed the preload setting on my Pro Component shock to within 1mm of spec, which is more than I can say for any other suspension service I’ve worked with. Sag matters. If you want to get the most out of any bike, take the time to get fully kitted up and ready to ride before stepping on the scale to determine your rider weight, or checking sag on your bike. Give your suspension tuner the best possible information to get the best possible suspension.

The difference the Pro Components shock makes in the Norden’s suspension performance is profound. The Apex shock is decently plush, but the Pro Components shock is on a whole other level of plush and compliant. Where the Apex shock smooths out bumps and takes the edge off of orange-sized rocks, the Xplor Pro shock makes them all but disappear. You’ll be surprised to feel your bike not respond to rocks and other obstacles you thought you were going to hit with your back tire. The truth is that you did in fact hit the obstacle, but the Pro Component shock works that well - and that’s not even the best part.

It’s when things get rough, or the bumps get big where the Xplor Pro shock will have you saying “worth it!” Now you’re able to ride whoops without your back end bouncing up and down like a stapler, fly into G-outs and actually jump the bike without the shock bottoming out hard when you land. If you’re going to load the bike up with luggage or a passenger for any ride, now you have the adjustability in the shock to compensate for the additional load. Properly configured suspension also makes for a safer bike. The bottom line is that in any riding situation the Xplor Pro shock makes the Norden better.

The only downside to upping the Norden’s shock by such a significant margin is that it highlights the limitations of the stock Apex forks. The Xplor Pro shock will give you so much confidence that you have to remember to respect the limits of the Apex Forks when it comes to big hits or jumps. Some Norden riders may not find the limits of the Norden’s Apex forks, and in that case the Xplor Pro shock is all they need. For riders who want their forks to work as well as the Xplor Pro shock, there are WP Xplor Pro forks, which are what we’ll be installing and extending the suspension travel to 240mm front and rear for the next part of this series.

The Husqvarna Norden 901 is a great bike that has a number of travel specific optimizations that make it a unique variant of an 890. In stock form, the bike targets a mix of comfort and capability over outright off-road performance like the 890 Adventure R. By adding WP Pro Component suspension, Norden owners can seriously up the performance of their bike while retaining the Norden’s unique attributes. A Xplor Pro shock is a game changer for the Norden, and a gateway drug into the world of Pro Component suspension. Even if you are a Norden owner who has no desire to ever touch dirt, having a shock you can fully adjust to compensate for luggage or a passenger is still a great upgrade to make to your bike. Solid Performance has absolutely provided top shelf suspension service, and their work speaks for itself. Give Solid Performance a call at (484)593-0095 or email: suspension@sp-wp.com or visit www.solid-performance.com .

2023 BETA 430 RR

When you throw a leg over a motorcycle for a first impression ride, your mind starts going through a checklist, much like a pilot does before takeoff. Notable items on this mental checklist of questions include: What is the motor like? How is the clutch? How is the suspension? Is there anything that prevents you from feeling confident on the bike? And last but most importantly, what is the experience of riding the bike? Does it put a smile on your face? I recently had the opportunity to take the 2023 Beta Motorcycle 430 RR for a rip in southern Utah and it proved to be one of the best test rides of 2022.

WORDS: CHAD DE ALVA PHOTOS: MIGUEL SANTANA

Beta’s 430 RR is a special bike in a world where it seems like every other manufacturer only recognizes displacements in multiples of 50. We’ve got 350s, 450s, and 500s galore, but Beta is marching to the beat of their own drummer with their thumpers. The 390, 430, and 480 are all unique bikes – and it takes mere seconds from first seeing one in person to appreciate these differences. Sitting on the 430 RR for the first time, you’re reminded of that wonderfully compact Beta chassis that makes the bike feel small and agile – something that you can easily manipulate and place exactly where you want it. Riders who are new to Betas usually ask questions to the effect of “Is this really a 430?” as they’re surprised so much motor can fit in such a small and agile-feeling chassis.

The next thing you’ll notice is the quality of the handlebar controls, and pulling in the clutch lever will introduce you to one of my favorite parts of a Beta, their outstanding Diaphragm clutch. Turn the handlebars from side to side and you’ll notice that the steering range of motion is limited compared to other manufacturers, but there are plenty of techniques for turning around besides cornering on the steering stops. More on that in a minute. Further scrutineering of the bike reveals the other changes that Beta has made for the 2023 model year.

A new traction control system has been added to Beta’s existing sun and rain map switch, giving the bike four distinct electronic control settings. Off to the sides of this new control switch, you’ll find revised radiator shrouds which are narrower, and only increase the small and agile feeling exuded by the chassis. Inside the forks, new pistons help prevent cavitation and keep the suspension action smooth no matter where you are in the stroke or what you’re riding over.

2023 Beta 4 strokes get a new longer exhaust header which improves low end throttle response and increases torque. It’s always great to see functional changes that actually impact how a bike rides.

My test ride in Utah took place the day after a late season rainstorm dropped some serious precipitation in the area. All of this moisture turned the normally dry and dusty Utah desert into conditions that ranged from hero dirt to slip and slide muddy. With limited time, I simply rode the bike as delivered – something akin to borrowing a buddy’s bike and not dinking with their setup at all.

The Beta 430 RR’s motor responds instantly to the throttle. There is no hesitation nor is there any hint of emissions compromised mapping – the bike just revs freely and lets you know it’s ready for launch. Feed the rear wheel the exact amount of twist you want thanks to that awesome clutch, and you’re on your way. Down low the 430.95cc mill has plenty of torque, and the throttle only pours more fuel on the fire carrying you all the way to the top of the rev range without checking out early. My test ride included everything from high-speed dirt roads to some technical moves and a few sketchy steep hill climbs, and at no point in my ride did the motor disappoint. The 430 has plenty of torque for wheelies and pivot turns, and it loves to rev for power slides when you’re trying to hang with adventure bikes. In short –the motor is great, and its smaller reciprocating mass contributes to a chassis that is more agile and flickable. Think big four stroke power in a chassis that handles more like a two stroke, and you’ll get the idea.

2023 BETA 430 RR

In the suspension department the 430 RR is no less inspiring. The linkage rear end and the updated fork were great for the conditions in which I rode. A big disclaimer here – I didn’t get the chance to hammer through anything that was properly rocky, so I can’t speak to that aspect of the bike’s performance. However, on dirt roads, two tracks full of washouts/G-Outs and a sampling of square edge obstacles, the suspension worked well soaking up the big smacks without losing composure. The few slightly rocky sections we did get to play with indicate good things, so mark me down as eager to see what the 2023 suspension can do in the rocks.

Our riding area in Utah was a textbook example of a place that rewarded exploring. A network of roads and tracks fed into washes and trails that snaked their way through a quintessential desert landscape carved through eons of erosion. On two tracks with no shortage of wash outs and bermed corners built by 4-wheeled vehicle traffic, the 430 was a weapon – I was able to go as fast as I wanted, sail over the whoops and G-outs in the trail, and dive into the corners with solid brakes. Exiting a corner was no less enjoyable – the 430 pulls, and shooting off down the trail with the 430 cranking away never got old.

In the washes and on smaller trails, the Beta 430 RR felt at home. Granted, hero dirt makes just about every bike feel awesome, but I couldn’t point to a single chassis characteristic that I wasn’t a fan of. The bike quickly became something that I was very comfortable on and felt confident, and that meant going just about anywhere was fair game.

When mother nature had other ideas in the form of a cliff or other obstacle that I wasn’t going to get past, turning the bike around was no factor – even with less steering angle than other bikes. Thanks to that outstanding diaphragm clutch, pulling 180-degree pivot turns on the first (okay, on the second) try, or ripping an elephant turn to get an about face was no worries. When you’re riding up a wash to the end or following a tight trail just to see where it goes, there’s always the thought in the back of your mind to the effect of “how am I going to turn around?” Yet on the Beta 430, I found myself thinking “I’ll get to do another pivot turn when this trail stops me. Sweet!”

The end of my test ride on the Beta 430 RR was spent flying down a well-maintained dirt road with a couple of ADV bikes as we raced the last remnants of light to get back to the truck. Here is where I found my two wants for the 430: The first is a better headlight, as it’s quite easy to outrun the stock headlight on this bike. The RR-series four strokes have 48 watts of DC power available from their stators, so adding a light from MotoMinded would be a no-brainer. Second, would be a better seat. The stock seat doesn’t impact your ability to ride the bike when standing up, but when it’s actually being used as a seat, well let’s just say there is room for improvement. Thankfully, Seat Concepts has a number of options for Betas.

Without a 350, 390, or 450 along for the ride to make objective A/B comparisons, I can’t definitively speak to exactly how the Beta 430 stacks up to its cousins with different displacements. What I can say for certain is that the 430 RR is a very fun bike. It had plenty of power to hang with the 500 that was also on our ride, and the Beta chassis was certainly more agile than the 500. This makes the 430 a very intriguing bike for off-road and dual sport use.

The 2023 Beta 430 RR answered all of the questions on the checklist: It has a great motor, good suspension (again, for the condition we rode in), an awesome clutch, confidence inspiring chassis, and it definitely delivered a great riding experience. This left me to focus on riding, exploring, and just enjoying some of the best riding country in the southwest. Another bike with some weird quirk, be it motor, suspension, chassis or something else would have certainly tainted the memory of a great ride. Yet the Beta 430 RR enabled one of my favorite test rides of 2022, and I’m eagerly awaiting my next encounter with this intriguing bike.

For more information on the 2023 Beta 430 RR, visit www.betausa.com

SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE

Type: Single cylinder, 4 –stroke, liquid cooled, 4-valve (Titanium intake and exhaust), electric start (back up kick starter as an option)

Displacement: 430.95cc

Compression Ratio: 12.33:1

Ignition: Dual-Map Kokusan 200w output

Lubrication: Twin Oil Pumps w/Cartridge Filter & Separate Compartments for Engine & Transmission

Fuel System: 42mm Throttle Body w/Dual Injectors

Traction Control: On-Demand with push of a button

Clutch: Wet Diaphragm-style

Transmission: 6-Speed

CHASSIS

Frame: Molybdenum steel, double cradle w/ quick air filter access

Wheelbase: 58.7”

Seat Height: 37”

Ground Clearance: 12.6”

Footrest Height: 16.3”

Dry Weight: 239 lbs (wet weight, no fuel)

Fuel Tank Capacity: 2.4 US Gallons

Front Suspension: 48 mm Sachs Open Cartridge with compression, rebound & spring preload adjustment

Rear Suspension: Aluminum Body Sachs shock w/adjustable rebound and hi/low speed compression

Front Wheel Travel: 11.6”

Rear Wheel Travel: 11.4”

Front Brake: 260 mm floating rotor

Rear Brake: 240 mm rotor

Front/Rear Rim: 21” (Front) 18” (Rear)

Front/Rear Tire: Maxxis Enduro

Final Gearing: 13T Front/48T Rear

Price: MSRP $10,699

Destination Fee: $439.00

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LAND OF CONTRADICTIONS

::: BY MOTOMORGANA :::

Crossing the border between Pakistan and India

Military ceremony at the Pakistan - India border

Laid Back And Mesmerizing - After 4 weeks in Pakistan, it was time to move on. We had booked a room for a bargain in Amritsar, just across the border with India. Our luggage was hoisted to the third floor, we took a quick shower and put on our “finest” clothes to finally, after 2.5 months of staying in bar-less countries, have a fullblown aperitif. Well, full-blown after half a pint of Indian “Kingfisher Ultra Max,” our eyes began to twinkle and another half pint later we were already tripping over our tongues. Half stunned, we finally found ourselves in a rickshaw on our way to our hotel room and fell asleep on the bed with our clothes on. Welcome to India!

Being in the city of Amritsar meant enjoying delicious Indian street food, visiting the magical Golden Temple and being immersed in an enchanting atmosphere, brightened up with those typical Indian new age tunes, with turbaned men and gracefully dressed women with the typical red dot between their eyebrows. Traffic aside, India breathed calm and peace above all.

Military Muscle Power - The contrast with our activity for the next day could not have been greater. The military ceremony at the Wagah land border is a daily ritual that’s absolutely worth attending, not least because of the surreal setting. On both sides of the border line, wildly dressed soldiers paraded against each other for about an hour and a half. Legs were thrown extremely high into the air and challenging macho poses were struck to show that the Indians - or the Pakistanis as the case may be - really are the strongest. To the loud cheers of thousands of spectators who, whipped up by a military applause master on steroids, roared to the other side of the border that their country is superior. Admittedly, the military show was truly impressive. But just for the record: India and Pakistan have been in an intractable conflict over the northern province of Kashmir since WWII. The arch enemies have nuclear warheads on either side of the border that could be launched at any moment. Fighting flares up too often and the series of wars between the two countries is now quite long. You can imagine how people on both sides of the border get just a tad more rited up in a climate like this. It was mind boggling... the contrast with the peaceful atmosphere 15 miles away could not have been greater.

Kunzum Pass, Himachal Pradesh, India

Chaos In The Streets - India also means 1.4 billion Indians.... and it shows. People are just everywhere! Our drive to the north was a long succession of villages, connected by short stretches of narrow road where the loudest honking truck or bus flashes across in bulldozer mode, sparing nothing and no one. You must be extremely cautious here and you can forget about taking corners at speed on the winding roads in the mountains if you don’t want to be pushed into the abyss. After a painfully slow mountain ride, we finally arrived in Manali, the starting point for driving fun in the Himalayas. But we stuck around a little too long in Iran and Pakistan and it had gotten pretty late in the season already, so the risk of snowfall was high, and when there’s snow, the passes close, unfortunately.

Zen Along The Himalayas - The Spiti Valley, at the foot of the Himalayas, could not have contrasted more with the rest of India; desolate landscapes with the occasional lost run-down mini Suzuki or warmly huddled biker. The track led us over the snowy Kunzum Pass and along the magnificent Spiti River. No crowds here, no crazy bus drivers or an abundance of mopeds. The mighty vista was interrupted only by yet another Buddhist temple with a few houses around it and a herd of yaks that was quietly seeking lower ground because of the cold. Tourists were no longer around here, as two days later the pass would inevitably close for the season. Only peace and quiet reigned here. After the Indian chaos of the past few weeks, this was such a relief.

The road to Manali. Himachal Pradesh, India

Rishikesh, Uttarakand, India

Kaza Buddhist temple, Himachal Pradesh, India

Golden Buddha, Kaza,

Kaza Buddhist temple, Himachal Pradesh, India

Where Is That Off Switch? - But on the way to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, we were brutally dropped back into Indian reality and hopelessly searched for that button to switch off the never-ending chaos and noise. We looked for ways to be on our own for a little moment when on the road. Not that we were successful, to say the least. Stopping outside of villages became our next strategy but even with just three buffaloes and a few monkeys around, it took less than a minute until a crowd of people gathered around the motorcycles and the road was blocked by a traffic jam. Admittedly, the Taj Mahal is a must see and we really enjoyed visiting it, but by now both Caroline and I felt like we had seen enough of India. We wanted to get to Nepal as soon as possible.

Népal The Belgian Way - The border crossing was ushered in by an Indian border guard on speed with the most terrible Indian accent ever. The guy commanded me all sorts of things and I just didn’t have a clue what he was talking about. He kept asking if I spoke English. “Fluently sir, but I still don’t understand a single word of what you just said.” That obviously came as an insult to him. He got irritated, frustrated probably and finally angry with no intention of making things easy for us. Plan B was activated, and Caroline was sent inside to defuse the situation, while outside two local “beauties” with voices just a little too low to be entirely natural, tried to get a date with me. In the meantime, Caroline had been successful though: with the required stamps in our passports, we finally crossed the Nepalese border at dusk.

We made a quick stopover in Bardia National Park to spot elephants and rhinos, but we had to get to Kathmandu asap: we needed new chains, spark plugs and our injectors could use a good ultrasonic cleaning after all the crappy fuel we had seen over the past few months. But above all, we had to arrange the shipping of our motorcycles. But both Caroline and I had been looking forward for months to this one last stop somewhat 80 miles before the Nepalese capital: Luc, a pleasantly deranged Belgian adventurer, was running a real fry shop in Pokhara, with beer from the land of beer and delicious double fried hand cut fries. After 7 months on the road, we found ourselves in Valhalla for Belgians: A large portion of fries with mayonnaise and a Blue Chimay beer. Bring it on, Luc!

Kaza, Himachal Pradesh, India

Tabo Buddhist Temple, Himachal Pradesh, India

Kunzum Pass, Himachal Pradesh, India

Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India

Uttarakand, India

Bardia, Nepal

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Download the app: onxoffroad.com

Borders Closed - Nowadays, Nepal is a dead end for overlanders. The borders with China and Myanmar are closed, so we had no choice but to fly to southeast Asia if we want to travel to Australia. For the umpteenth time, both our motorcycles were packed in one big crate and loaded onto the cheapest Nepalese cargo flight we could find. Nepal is pretty chill. Maybe a little too chill sometimes: “Tomorrow at 7 am we will be at your hotel to make the crate sir.” Around 1:30 pm, the carpenter finally showed up with a bag full of excuses. Being on time is clearly not in their genes. But on the other hand, customs formalities literally took 5 minutes and they conveniently skipped the inspection of the motorcycles. This must be the least bureaucratic country ever.

Today we are spending our last hours in Kathmandu, visiting some of the countless temples here and feasting on crusty baguette with delicious yak cheese and a butter croissant for dessert. The stress flared up a little this morning when our friend-motorcyclist Santosh told a story of two travelers who were blocked in transit at an Indian airport because, as it turned out, you do need an actual visa for a layover in India. A morning trot to the embassy solved that problem at the last minute. The bikes will leave Nepal today, we fly out tomorrow. Malaysia, be prepared!

Next up: southeast Asia (Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam)

Funeral in the Ganges river in Rishikesh. 50 yards away, kids were drinking

Uttar Pradesh, India

Maintenance time! Kathmandu, Nepal

drinking straight from the river! Uttarakand, India

Rishikesh, Uttarakand, India

Uttar Pradesh, India

Bardia, Nepal

Bardia National Park, Nepal

Streetlife in Kathmandu, Nepal

Track riding with the mighty Himalayas in the background

Building a crate with an audience. Kathmandu, Nepal

This package can’t get any smaller. 2 bikes ready to be shipped.

Nagarkot, Nepal

So many temples in Kathmandu, Nepal

Help, I need a break! (By Caroline) - Most people don’t really understand when we say we need a break from traveling. We are on vacation all the time, aren’t we? Well... not really... People go on vacation to unwind, to recharge their batteries for the next working period until they need vacation again. Traveling is different though. After seven months and 21 countries, I needed a break. Imagine having to search for a place to sleep every single day, preferably as cheap as possible, but still in a nice location. You empty your motorcycle panniers, pitch the tent, or drag your luggage up the stairs, get out of your sleeping bag (yes, even in some rooms that sleeping bag turned out to be necessary after a quick inspection of the sheets), to then meticulously put everything away again in the morning. Every day you look for something to eat, something that won’t make you spend hours on the toilet the next day, something that looks tasty and gives you the necessary energy. And preferably something healthy, if possible. You immerse yourself in the culture of each country, try to figure out the customs and adapt as much as possible to the local life. You learn a few words of the language, hope to meet someone who speaks some French, English, Spanish, German or bring out your best sign language. You try to decipher people’s facial expressions and body language and respond appropriately. I can tell you it took us a while to figure out that the ‘8’ movement with the head actually meant “yes” or “okay” in India.

Tom and I choose to avoid the major roads as much as possible. Where we can, we follow the little gray lines on the map and GPS to get to places where few other tourists set foot. At times, those dirt tracks have been pretty tough on this trip. After yet another riding day, I’m always glad to toss those smelly boots and knee pads aside, even though the ride itself had been immensely satisfying. For me off-roading is much more intense than for Tom: keeping the heavily loaded bike upright (or getting it up again when things go wrong), my head working overtime to make the right decisions on the track, the constant focus it requires... and when you think tar roads are just an easy ride here, think again; they often turn out to be no more than a long series of deep potholes, sand and gravel because of the many landslides, or they are filled to the brim with crazy traffic that drives you nuts.

Nagarkot, Nepal

Since entering Iran, just being myself as a woman became a real struggle. Although the Iranians charmed me every day, there was no way around the compulsory dress code. Headscarf on, bum covered and preferably not standing out too much was the challenge. Pakistan turned out to be a real man’s world: away from the typical tourist destinations, I turned out to be the only woman walking the streets or having dinner at a local restaurant or even going to a shop. And India, a country that is trying very hard to clean up its reputation of rape and misogyny, has a long way to go as well. In conversations with the locals, I was often skillfully ignored. It almost felt like I didn’t exist. When stopped at the side of the road, I was often greeted enthusiastically with “Hello, sir!” until I took off my helmet and all attention suddenly turned to Tom. How happy I was to cross the border into Nepal. Finally a “Good morning, Ma’am!”, finally relaxed women by the side of the road again. And above all ... finally silence and peace again, something I really craved after Pakistan and India. Kathmandu, with its cozy alleys, good food and incredibly friendly people who leave you alone when you need it, turned out to be a perfect place to catch my breath. I am all rested now, ready for the next part of our trip!

:: INDIA - LAND OF CONTRADICTIONS ::

Streetlife in Kathmandu, Nepal

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WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!

WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!