February 2021
Issue 54
Ténéré 700. The Next Horizon is yours. YamahaMotorsports.com Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. ©2020 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.
Issue 54
February 2021
FEBRUARY 2021
INSTA-ADV
Issue 54
y information: These drawings contain information y to Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this Cover Photo on without expressed written consent Cudby is prohibited by Simon se partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited hable to the full extent of the law. Design
Chris Glaspell
Instagram Travelers
LOGO SHEET
THE INSIDER New Year, New Plan
Photography Editor Simon Cudby
BIKES - GEAR
Contributing Writers Anatoly Chernyavskiy Chad de Alva Travis Gill Scot Harden Freddie Lex David Marvier
BLACK RGB: R255 B255 G2550 CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100
Contributing Photographers Anatoly Chernyavskiy Stephen W. Clark Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Travis Gill James Lissimore David Marvier Rally Zone
PMS 021
The Latest
RGB: R255 B80
WIDE OPEN CMYK: N80 Y100
Views Through The Lens
HURRICANE - UTAH
horizontal on whitePhoto Mission
Story Editor Andrew Glaspell
CHUKOTKA
Business Development Brandon Glanville
Between 2 Oceans
Want to advertise with us?
TESTED
Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com
Klimon Adventure horizontal black GTX Boots
Contact: info@upshiftonline.com
Join us on Instagram at @ upshift_online
FRANCE
Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online
Post Lock Down Ride
Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline
SPAIN - PORTUGAL Discovering New Lands
FIRST RIDE Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2021. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.
vertical on black
Honda CB500X
vertical on white
Follow
Follow
Follow
Follow
The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos
Follow
Follow
Follow
Follow
INSTA-ADV
E R U T E N D I E R V D T A C E T F X R NE E P R E U TH YO R O F
TAILOR MADE FOR TOURING ADVENTURE Setting a new standard for road-focused adventure versatility, the new Tiger 850 Sport takes all of the Tiger’s renowned character, performance and agility and adds a dedicated 850 triple engine tune and a road-focused package of high specification technology and equipment. The new Tiger 850 Sport – Confidence-inspiring, memorable rides every day, with an MSRP starting at $11,995 Find out more, visit triumphmotorcycles.com
NEW YEAR, NEW PLAN Viewpoint By Power Sports Industry Leader and Advocate Scot Harden 2020 started with such promise. It seems like only yesterday we were celebrating Ricky Brabec’s historic win at Dakar. The new KTM 790 Adventure, the Yamaha 700 Tenere, and several other exciting new adventure models were released along with a flood of great aftermarket products and services. We were busy finalizing our riding plans for the year, what major events we would attend, what destinations we would visit. Everything aligned to make 2020 the best year ever for adventure and off-road enthusiasts. Then came COVID-19 and the lockdown, and with it, a blow to our way of life that is still working its way through our collective psyches. By the time summer rolled around and we were allowed to start moving again, we couldn’t wait to break out, to get out and ride. And ride we did! By now, you’ve heard or read that 2020 was a historic year for OffRoad motorcycle sales, up a staggering 45% over the previous year. Adventure and Dual Sport sales up substantially as well. Why? Because when the world seems completely out of control, motorcycling makes life bearable. If we learned anything from 2020, we realized that riding isn’t a luxury; it’s a necessity right up there with food, water, and air. It’s what makes life worth living. As we move into 2021, we should be smarter and kinder for all we endured in 2020, more appreciative of the simple pleasures that motorcycling delivers. Motorcycling is a parable for life. Sometimes our best-laid plans, our chosen life paths, get detoured; promising trails dead end, and often it’s much more challenging than we planned. During such trials and tribulations, we discover what we are made of, who our friends are, what we value most. This past year reminded us all that much of life is out of our control. For this reason, I choose to focus on the things I can control. I encourage you do the same in 2021. Work on your riding skills, your fitness, your health and well-being, stay on top of your motorcycle, strive to be a better rider, so you can go wherever you want to go safely and efficiently. I’m here to help. I’ll be sharing in Upshift what I’ve learned over five decades in the saddle as a professional off-road, Baja and Dakar racer, team manager, and test rider. Keep an eye out for my Top 10 Tips for being a better rider in next month’s issue. What you choose to focus on will expand! Here’s to a better plan in 2021! Happy New Year and see you down the trail!
It’s never met a continent it couldn’t handle. Lighter and more powerful than ever, with a 1084cc engine, Cruise Control, and our available state-of-the-art 6-speed DCT. Select a new Adventure Sports ES model, and you’ll get a slew of additional features like tubeless tires and electronically controlled suspension, for the ultimate off-the-grid adventures.
The Honda Africa Twin powersports.honda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE AFTER CONSUMING DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW AND READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. For rider training information or to locate a rider training course near you, call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 1-800-446-9227. Africa Twin® is a registered trademark of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. ©2020 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. (8/20)
Life is Better on a Honda
ACCESSORIZED EUROPEAN MODEL SHOWN WITH NON-OEM TIRES.
Kawasaki Announces 2022 KLR650 Models For 2022, Kawasaki welcomes the return of the widely popular and critically acclaimed all-new KLR®650 motorcycle to its lineup. The legendary dual-sport bike is back and better than ever, refined and ready to make new memories. Featuring new technology you’ve been waiting for, and the same reputable reliability, the KLR®650 is ready for your next expedition. Whether it’s traveling long distances or making the daily commute, this adventure-hungry, on-and off-road machine offers the versatility and toughness required to accommodate any adventure. The all-new 2022 KLR650 receives the addition of fuel injection to the 652cc single-cylinder engine offering increased reliability and fuel efficiency. A new multi-functional digital instrumentation panel with a fuel gauge is paired with a new fuel tank design with greater usable volume. Numerous parts have been updated for increased riding confidence when carrying luggage, reduced vibrations, and increased generator capacity, contributing to the improved performance and ride comfort that is needed when searching for a tough adventure partner. The all-new KLR650 features a new LED headlight, is available with optional ABS, provides a terrific riding position for all-day riding comfort and boasts plenty of carrying capacity. For 2022 the KLR650 motorcycle will also be available in two new special editions featuring a number of Kawasaki Genuine Accessories including side cases, engine guards, LED auxiliary light set, and more. KLR650 - $6,699, KLR650 ABS - $6,999, KLR650 TRAVELER - $7,399, KLR650 ADVENTURE - $7,999 www.kawasaki.com
Pearl Sand Khaki
Traveler - Pearl Lava Orange
KLR650 Highlights • NEW Fuel Injected 652 cc Single-Cylinder Engine • NEW Multi-Functional Digital Instrumentation With Fuel Gauge • NEW LED Headlight • NEW Bodywork including fuel tank • NEW Larger Front Disc And Optional ABS • NEW Greater Wind Protection and Styling • NEW Increased Carrying Capacity
Adventure - Cypher Camo Gray
TRAIL18 ADVENTURE BACKPACK • INDUSTRY LEADING QUADLOC-LITE™ HARNESS • 11-LITRE WATERPROOF ROLL-TOP MAIN BODY • 7-LITRE QUICK ACCESS ZIP COMPARTMENT • 2L AND 3.75L HYDRATION RESERVOIR COMPATIBLE • EXTERNAL ELASTICATED STORAGE NET • 10 YEAR GUARANTEE Available in BLACK, ORANGE or LIME
KRIEGA.US
#RIDEKRIEGA
New Outback Motortek Triumph Tiger 900 Accessories We are proud to create our very own design but it doesn’t mean that we never seek inspiration elsewhere for bits and pieces. Our Triumph Tiger 900 products are one example: they’re completely and entirely unique and not similar to anything any other manufacturers have ever come up with.
Crash Bars Sadly riders crash on pavement, as well as off-road. Hence we take this product extremely seriously and follow through with a one-of-a-kind testing procedure. Only Outback Motortek does it! Skid Plate It serves a slightly different purpose than the crash bars. This product offers protection for the oil pan and partially covers the exhaust header. It’s a must have item for those looking to take their Tiger 900 off the pavement! Pannier Racks Our X-Frame version in the photo below is a multi-functional product and offers more than just carrying your luggage. Thanks to the shiftable “X” shaped bracket it can also accommodate our tool box and/or a Rotopax fuel or water canister. Rear Luggage Rack. Our rear luggage rack provides a platform for quite a few things. Just to mention a few: tent, dry bags (roll type), Rotopax fuel or water canister, top cases, Pelican case etc. Top cases or Pelican case may require extra holes drilled by customers. Every Outback Motortek product goes through extensive crash tesing. Go to www.outbackmotortek.com for more information.
NEW TEES ARE HERE!
EAGLE, ID
EVERY PURCHASE SUPPORTS
EACH ISSUE OF UPSHIFT
GENERAl STORE U.S.A 2016 upshiftonline.com/store
New Wolfman Luggage Stuff-It Stuff Sacks If you use Rolie Bags or Rocky Mountain Expedition Saddle Bags, these Stuff-It Stuff Sacks will make it easier to pack and keep your gear organized. Stuff-It Stuff Sacks are sized specifically for each size of Rolie Bag or saddle bag, built just slightly undersized so they’ll slide in and out with ease. You can also mix sizes for more packing options. HiViz colors make them easy to see and see inside. Draw cord closure. The Stuff-It for Rocky Mtn/EXP Saddle Bags has handles for ease of removal, and can double as a ultralight tote bag. All Stuff-Its are sold in pairs. So yeah, you get two. Small for Small Rolie WP, HiViz Orange $19.99, Medium for Medium Rolie WP, HiViz Green $24.99, Large for Large Rolie WP, HiViz Blue $29.99, Rocky for Rocky Mtn/EXP Saddle Bags, Lt Grey $34.99 www.wolfmanluggage.com
fresh air. fresh gear.
DRY NO MATTER WHAT
WOLFMANLUGGAGE.COM
@killianmoreno
PROTECTION LEVEL
OUTBACK MOTORTEK CRASH BARS
100%
BMW 1200GS/1250GS/GSA OUTBACK MOTORTEK SKID PLATE
PRECISION+PASSION Crash Bars • Skid Plates • Center Stands Pannier Racks • Rear Luggage Racks
www.outbackmotortek.com
SCOTT Prospect Light Sensitive Goggle The SCOTT Prospect Light Sensitive Goggle is an absolute highlight among off-road and motocross goggles. It gives the rider a maximum field of vision and features an innovative SCOTT Lens Lock System that makes the lens stay in the frame no matter what impact is coming from outside. Like the regular Prospect, this model comes with NoSweat face foam. What makes this goggle so special is the Light Sensitive lens, which adapts automatically to sunlight intensity. With this lens you are equipped for any and all light conditions! MSRP: $89.00 to $99.00 www.scott-sports.com
2021 IMS 4.5 Gallon Tanks For KTM and Husqvarna IMS Products 4.5 Gallon tanks now available for select 2019-2021 Husqvarna and KTM Models. This tank is available in black and natural in the screw cap version and natural in the dry break ready version. Designed to enhance the look of your motorcycle, yet provide greater distance per tankful. Don’t let your ride stop short for lack of fuel. www.imsproducts.com
4.5 Gallon Husqvarna Tank • MSRP: $357.00, 19-21 FC250/350/450, FX350/FX450, 20-21 FE350/350s/450/501/501s, 18-1/2-20 1/2 Rockstar FC450 • TPI MSRP: $412.00, 20-21 TE150i/TE300i, TX300i • Available in Black and Natural Screw Cap • Available in Natural Dry Break Ready
4.5 Gallon KTM Tank • MSRP: $357.00 , 19-21 250/350/450 SX-F/XC-F , 20-21 EXC-F/EXC-F Six Days, 350/500 XCF-W, 18-1/2-20 1/2 450 SX-F Fac Ed. • TPI MSRP: $412.00, 20-21 150/250/300 XC-W TPI, 250/300 XC TPI, 300 XC-W TPI Six Days • Available in Black and Natural Screw Cap • Available in Natural Dry Break Ready
THE MOST OFF-ROAD WORTHY DUAL SPORT ON THE MARKET
Available in 4-Stroke models: 350 / 390 / 430 / 500
WIDE OPEN
OREGON
PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
WES VANNIEUWENHUISE ROTTWEILER PERFORMANCE KTM 2020 SONORA RALLY ADV CHAMPION
PEAC MAXIMA’S EXCLUSIVE ADDITIVE SYSTEM
PEAC additive system was developed by Maxima and tested with factory teams like Monster Energy Kawasaki, Monster Energy Pro Circuit Kawasaki and Geico Factory Connection Honda. PEAC was designed to significantly improve performance in several critical areas: engine cleanliness, clutch performance, power & acceleration. This unique additive system is exclusive to the Maxima 4-stroke engine oil line-up.
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
OEM APPROVED SAFE FOR USE IN ALL MOTORCYCLES
Maxima 4-stroke engine oils meet or exceed the requirements set forth in your motorcycle owners manual. For use in all motorcycle brands: KTM, Husqvarna, BMW, Triumph, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki, GasGas and more. Guaranteed by Maxima Racing Oils / Made in the USA / MaximaUSA.com
WIDE OPEN
2021 DAKAR RALLY
PHOTO: RALLY ZONE
WIDE OPEN
KEVIN BENAVIDES: WINNER, 2021 DAKAR RALLY
PHOTO: RALLY ZONE
WIDE OPEN
RICKY BRABEC: SECOND OVERALL, 2021 DAKAR RALLY
PHOTO: RALLY ZONE
WIDE OPEN
SAM SUNDERLAND: THIRD OVERALL, 2021 DAKAR RALLY
PHOTO: RALLY ZONE
WIDE OPEN
LAIA SANZ - 2021 DAKAR RALLY
PHOTO: RALLY ZONE
WIDE OPEN
COLORADO
PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX
WIDE OPEN
FRANCE
PHOTO: DAVID MARVIER
WIDE OPEN
ARIZONA
PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA
WIDE OPEN
CHUKOTKA, RUSSIA
PHOTO: ANATOLY CHERNYAVSKIY
WIDE OPEN
WASHINGTON
PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
WIDE OPEN
ARIZONA
PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX
WIDE OPEN
CHUKOTKA, RUSSIA
PHOTO: ANATOLY CHERNYAVSKIY
WIDE OPEN
ARIZONA
PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA
WIDE OPEN
GREECE
PHOTO: JAMES LISSIMORE
WIDE OPEN
OREGON
PHOTO: STEPHEN W. CLARK
ÂŽ
podactive.com | human motion
BY SIMON CUDBY
PRESENTED BY FLY RACING AND SHINKO TIRES
It’s just so… orange. We had rolled into the Utah town of Hurricane at sunset the night before. The surrounding cliffs were all aglow with the light from the falling sun. I knew this was going to be a great photo exploration trip over the next three days on our three plated dual sports into the surrounding landscape. I was lucky to have two of my favorite riding buddies along on the trip, Scott Lantefield and Randy Commans.
Day 1: Gooseberry Mesa The overnight January temps in town had dropped into the high 20F range, and as we headed to breakfast, we talked about our plan to load up our bikes with our tools and snacks for the day, then head up to the Gooseberry Mesa area east of town. Even by 10 am, it was still a chilly 32F as we motored up out of town on the 59 highway towards Apple Valley. We were freezing at highway speed even though we each had layered up under our Fly Patrol jackets. I had scoped out the area on Google Maps the previous week, and it looked as though there would be many opportunities to take a left turn on a dirt road that would get us up onto the high mesa trails. Well, this wasn’t the case as all of these trails were fenced off.
We eventually found a fast fire road heading in the right direction and a posted sign pointing us to our destination. We soon came up to a parking area for the trails, and we were not sure about taking our bikes through the gate. Randy asked a couple of local mountain bikers if this trail was open for motos, and he said we were fine as long as we stayed on the two-track jeep trail. The smooth, hard-packed two-track soon became rougher and more technical in some sections. At the far end of the trail, we came to our first “no motorcycles” sign, so we made a left turn out to the cliff’s edge to take in the incredible scenery. All of our bikes had Mosko Moto and Wolfman small bags stuffed with tools and food, so we took a break from our riding to drink some water and each snack on a tasty Kate’s bar. Back on the trail, we backtracked the way we had come onto the mesa, then turned north towards the small town of Rockville whilst still looking for little side trails to explore. We layered up again as we got back onto the asphalt as the temps were around 50F and took Highway 9 east out towards Springdale to top off our bikes before heading back into Hurricane before sunset.
Day 2: Sand Hollow We got on the trail a little earlier today as we turned south for today’s ride into the Sand Hollow area below the town. We quickly found ourselves on some very soft sand jeep trails, and we navigated our way towards the bigger sand dune riding area. Riding in the sand was tricky enough, but add in some small Slickrock areas, and you found yourself having to be very careful with your throttle application. In the sand, it’s basically “keep on the gas” all the time, and there is virtually zero percent traction until you hit a patch of Slickrock where the bike hooks up for a second or two with a hundred percent traction. This made for another level of difficulty to the already challenging ride. We were on our ride in mid-January during the Dakar event, and ripping through these sand dunes, I’d be lying if I said each of us didn’t imagine ourselves riding in the Saudi desert, well for about fifteen minutes anyway, because that’s how long it took to get a little tired! Although Randy and Scott were on the Honda 450L and Husqvarna FE501, respectively, I had chosen the KTM EXC350, which in second gear spun the wheels in the sand for a while until I could upshift to third and get up on top of the soft stuff and keep up my momentum.
At the far southern end of the dunes, we rode up to a cliff overlooking the dunes hundreds of feet below us. This was the gateway into a network of Slickrock jeep trails through small stone canyons. The 350 KTM and I were right at home in these trails. Well, it was until I came to the first of many downhill drop-offs where the rider, that’s me, ran out of talent and had to walk down some of the sections. Riding with a big photo backpack is definitely not recommended in this area! Randy and Scott had no trouble riding these sections, so I stuck to what I’m better at and snapped off some photos. As the afternoon light was starting to drop, we made our way back toward Hurricane on a big loose rock downhill section. I was looking at Slickrock sections in front of me and thought how cool it was that this section of rock had a blue hue and how that would naturally form. Then I realized it was years of BFGoodrich rubber laid down by 4x4’s heading up the trail. After one last sand section, we were back onto asphalt and then back in town in ten minutes for some food and a cold beverage.
Day 3: Toquerville Twister A theme for our week so far was, “How cold will it be in the morning?” Well, day three was kind to us as once we got on the road, it was a balmy 42F, but quickly warming up to a high of 65F. Today’s adventure was north of Hurricane, into the Toquerville Twister trail up to the Toquerville Falls. As we traversed in and out of the morning sun at the base of some huge red cliffs, the trail was already a little challenging with sand whoops, small drop-offs, and a single track on some exposed sidehills. This trail definitely took all of our attention to keep out of trouble. We took many detours along the way up into some narrow, highwalled canyons that usually dead ended with a steep section or a giant boulder blocking the trail. This was a great area for some photography, so we took our time and enjoyed just being out in the wilderness.
This roller-coaster ride eventually ended up at the Touquerville Falls area, where there is a river crossing at the top of the small falls. Randy and Scott crossed back and forth a few times for my Nikon, but on the last pass through the water, Randy’s front wheel slid out on some submerged rock algae, and he went down hard. His forefinger on his left hand now had an extra bend near the tip, and he figured it was probably broken, even though he was able to continue on. The next hour of our ride was made up of at least twenty river crossings of various widths and depths as we worked our way down the canyon south back towards town. We crossed some sections that were made up of shallow water running over sandstone. There was the added hazard of potholes and shelves hidden under the water that was much deeper, as Scott managed to find out in one particularly tricky section. We had one last big, loose, rocky uphill to traverse before the end of the day before directing our bikes back to town. We rolled into Hurricane after three great days of trail riding and loaded our dirty bikes up into the Upshift van for an early 5 am start the next day to head back to Idaho.
CHECK OUT OUR YOUTUBE VIDEO
PART ONE
By Anatoly Chernyavskiy
Anatoly Chernyavskiy, originally born in the Republic of Tajikistan, moved to Russia in the early 90’s. Since 2015, he has focused on traveling in the far north of Russia. In 2018 he crossed Chukotka, completing a two-year trip around Russia. See Upshift Issue 33. Anatoly returns to the Northern region to explore more of the Chukchi Peninsula with his Honda XR650L and an
Nowhere have I seen such vast uninhabited territories before. I never felt so lonely as I did on the Chukchi Peninsula, in the land of permafrost washed by two oceans: the Pacific and the Arctic. The Chukchi Peninsula (also known as the Chukotka Peninsula) is located in the far north-east corner of Russia, bordering Magadan, Yakutia and Kamchatka. Chukotka is also a distant neighbor with Alaska, just 9,600 miles across the Bering Strait. Not so long ago it was one of the most unexplored regions on Earth, which remains difficult to access due to lack of roads and harsh climatic conditions. Most of Chukotka’s territory is beyond the Arctic Circle, and winter here can last up to 10 months.
CHUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
inflatable boat.
CHUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
Using different motorcycles and different shipping methods, I’ve traveled around Chukotka twice. The first time, I sailed from the European side of Russia by the cargo ship “Alexander Sibiryakov.” It was a two-week journey from Arkhangelsk to Pevek across five seas of the Arctic: White, Barents, Kara, Laptev and East Siberian. My travel companion was a Honda XR650L, which has accompanied me on many expeditions. When I came ashore in Pevek, the northernmost city in Russia, I saw for the first time the hilly expanses of Chukotka, covered with colorful tundra. In this trip I rode about 1000 km to the Kolyma River on the border of Yakutia. The path passed through the town of Bilibino to an unusual oasis where trees were growing. A Chukchi fisherman I met on the seashore told me that these trees were larches, a conifer whose needles change colors and fall during autumn.
Arctic Ocean
Pacific Ocean
CHUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
Most of the Chukchi Peninsula is covered with mountain tundra. It seems that life is nonexistent in such conditions, but that is simply not the case. During the short summer, the tundra becomes home to many birds. I was especially impressed by the numerous flocks of gray cranes coming northern mountain sheep climbing skillfully on stone slopes, along with bears, wolverines, and of course, deer. There is only one month a year that is suitable for riding a motorcycle in Chukotka - it is August. Until August there are too many mosquitoes and water in the rivers, and in September winter begins. The main difficulty of Chukchi roads is that you have to overcome many rivers across which there are no bridges. To cross the rivers, I had to use the help of large Ural and Kamaz trucks, throwing my motorcycle into their trailers. These old monsters can cross rivers 1.5-2 meters deep. Drivers work in very difficult conditions, transporting cargo on the peninsula in summer and winter.
HUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
here from North America. Additionally I saw
CHUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
When I got from Bilibino and to the village of Anyuysk, I hoped to find a barge on the Kolyma River and get out of Chukotka to the Magadan region. However, bad news awaited for me. By the end of summer, the river was shallowed down and cargo boats stopped floating along it. I had to leave my motorcycle with my friends in Bilibino and fly home by plane. Traveling in Chukotka is something incredible. Somehow surprisingly, this faraway region leaves an impression on the soul and, despite all the difficulties I had experienced there, lured me back again. The next year, I returned to Chukotka by a route through the Magadan region and Kolyma River, which I wanted to get out of the previous year. This time I was using a lighter Honda XR 250 Baja. It made it easier for me to pass the Old Summer Road between the Yakutia and Magadan regions, and most importantly, it was easier to load this bike into boats. In order to get to Chukotka I had to sail about 1500 km along the Kolyma River. The trip along the famous river starts in the north of the Magadan region in Seimchan village. It is here where the Kolyma Shipping Company is based and there is a small port from where barges with cargo for Yakutia and Chukotka depart.
CHUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
Next-Level Adventuring
Travel is a state of mind. The new Sand 4 H2O.
RIDE WITH US! SIGN UP. STAY CONNECTED @REVIT_ ADVENTURE
CHUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
When I reached the river by mid July, I again faced the problem of low water level. The local shipping company only accepted to deliver cargo to the north, until June 25. Everything depends on the water level. It was the middle of July, there was no water, and the barges were standing still. Usually here, in the Magadan region, travelers are begging nature for dry weather without rain, but then I was dreaming of heavy downpours so that the water level would rise. I stayed on a pier in a tent while I waited for my next move. At night, bears walked by, which I learned about in the mornings from the inverted barrels of garbage. During the day, the mosquitoes did not let me relax. The village a few kilometers away provided me access to food and internet, but I tried to stay near the river while I waited. I did not want to miss one of the small private boats able to pass on low water. After a week of waiting, when I began to despair, finally a boat appeared carrying food for the store in the North. The captain did not have a sailor, and he immediately agreed to take me and the bike on the condition that I would help him. Of course I agreed and was glad to trade the land for water, leaving the mosquitoes on the shore. The captain, Yukaghir by nationality, knowing the river well, successfully navigated his old boat through all the dangerous places. My job was to control the ropes. In order to deliver more goods, the boat pushed three small barges filled with food fastened together by ropes. I needed to keep an eye on them as we sailed.
CHUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
CHUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
In three days we crossed the Arctic Circle and arrived in a small Yakut town called Srednekolymsk, one of the most sparsely populated towns in Russia. Having unloaded the products, the boat went back to the South to the Magadan region. I then had to look for a new boat to go further north. The captain asked the other captains via radio if any could take me north and I was quickly taken on board of a barge that carried coal. The more to the north we moved away, the wider the river became. The mountains were left behind, and the banks lowered. A few days later our barge entered the port of a remote Yakut village, Chersky, named after a famous Russian traveler. In Chersky, I had to look for a boat again to get to Chukotka via small rivers. A local offered to take me by his boat absolutely free, but due to strong winds, we had to postpone this trip for several days. When the weather improved, we loaded the motorcycle into a small motorboat and after a few hours of sailing along the meandering tributaries of Kolyma, we came to the shore of Chukchi village named Anyuysk. From there I got to the town of Bilibino in a day, where I finished my previous trip and left my Honda XR650L.
CHUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
In Bilibino, I rested and serviced both motorcycles. My companion Kyle would ride the second motorcycle. In a few days, he would arrive by plane. First we would reach the Arctic Ocean in Pevek and then try to ride to the eastern part of the peninsula to the village Egvekinot, which is washed by the waters of the Pacific Ocean. The distance was about 2000 km. This time, I decided not to use outside help, as I did last year with the trucks. I wanted to try crossing the rivers with an inflatable boat. Check out Part 2 of Anatoly’s journey in the next issue.
CHUKOTKA BETWEEN 2 OCEANS
TRAILMAX MISSION
WHEN YOUR MISSION IS TO EXPLORE RIDE DUNLOP
AGGRESSIVE SIDE LUG TECHNOLOGY Wrap-around side lugs add rigidity and durability in rocky terrain, and improve steering in sand, mud and gravel.
@RideDunlop DunlopMotorcycleTires.com. ©2020 Dunlop Motorcycle Tires.
TESTED
BY CHAD DE ALVA
KLIM ADVENTURE GTX BOOTS Riding boots are one of those things that many riders take for granted, yet a good pair of boots can be the clutch piece of gear that can make or break an adventure. If you have a bad pair of boots, you can find yourself dealing with all kinds of things that can really take the stoke out of a trip. Blisters, cold and wet feet, pressure points and other forms of pain that afflict your feet have this magical ability to turn what could have been an awesome trip into a misery-fest. Yet, good boots let you sail through just about anything with a smile on your face. Klim is no stranger to making boots, and I’ve personally logged several seasons in their Snowmobile and Snow Bike boots with great results. So my expectations were set quite high for the Adventure GTX boot, which is Klim’s take on an Adventure / Touring boot. The Adventure GTX boot has a unique feature set, so let’s go through these things from the top down to get to know what we’re dealing with. Starting at the top, the first thing you come to is the big Velcro cuff that can accommodate quite the range of calf circumferences. Just below that on the back of the boot you’ll find a BOA fit system. If you’re not familiar with BOAs, they’re essentially mini ratchet systems that cinch down special cables in place of traditional laces on footwear. They offer great resolution in how tightly your footwear embraces your foot, and if you want to make things just a little more snug, it’s as simple as turning the dial a few more clicks. When it’s time to take the footwear off, simply pop the dial straight out, and all of the tension releases. BOA systems are backed with a lifetime warranty (of the footwear they are on), and they’ve been around for some time, so know that this isn’t some new gimmick. Yet the Adventure GTX wouldn’t be a moto boot without a traditional buckle, so Klim placed a buckle in the perfect spot to really hold your heel in place. The Velcro cuff, BOA fit system, and the buckle all work together to effectively embrace your foot – and this isn’t even all that can be done to adjust the fit of these boots.
KLIM ADVENTURE GTX BOOTS Moving forward on the boot you’ll find what may seem like a large toe-box, but this is another intentional design choice. Klim opted to give the Adventure GTX boot a roomier toe box, and with the provided insoles and half-size inserts, you can dial-in the internal volume of the boots to make them fit better. The Adventure GTX boot has a wider toe box than what you’ll find in a comparable sized euro boot, so riders with very narrow feet may find themselves with extra room in the toe box of these boots. Euro boots fit my feet well, and I found the Adventure GTX toe box to be on the large side of what I would call a good fit. Rounding out the Adventure GTX is an impressive sole that Klim developed with Michelin. This sole works great on the pegs whether you ride on the arches or the balls of your feet, and it has great traction when you’re hiking around off the bike. And the Adventure GTX is a boot that you can actually hike in. So much of my riding involves exploring, whether that’s a cool old mine site or simply just trying to figure out what’s around the bend. There is so much to see off of the bike, that having a boot that you can actually hike around in is a game changer. No longer do you have to wonder if scrambling up that hill to get a view or a cool shot is going to lead to blisters later on in the adventure. And likewise, having a boot with a real sole that provides real traction is key when you’re hiking around on terrain that you don’t want to fall off of. It’s so nice to be able to ride to someplace, and then go check out whatever you want without having to worry if your riding boots are going to kill your feet. The Adventure GTX boots also work well on the bike, whether you’re sitting down on the freeway, or standing up to blast miles in the dirt. The larger toe box on these boots does force the rider to relearn how to shift, and you may have to go so far as to adjust your shift lever depending on your application. I haven’t had the opportunity to ride with these boots in the rain, but they passed the “walk around in the creek and see if your feet get wet” test without issue. The Gore-Tex cuff on these boots comes up to just over eight inches on the size 10 US boots I have, so plan your steps in water accordingly. The warmth of any piece of gear is somewhat subjective as we all have different physiology, but the Adventure GTX boots combined with a good sock have kept my feet comfortable every time I’ve worn them. I’ve spent time at freeway speed with snow on the side of the road and temperatures below freezing, and these boots kept my toes from getting cold. On the warm side of things, a quick rip in the Sonoran desert with full sun and temps in the 70s didn’t cause me to feel like I was wearing plastic bags on my feet. In short, they have been comfortable temperature wise every time I’ve worn them. The Adventure GTX boots fit well, hike well, ride well, and keep your feet happy, so it may sound like they are about as good as riding boots get. Yet there’s no such thing as a piece of gear that works flawlessly in every riding situation, and these boots are no different. If you’re the type of rider who has proper knobbies on their big bike and uses the dreaded slab only as a conveyance to quickly get to the next section of dirt, you owe it to yourself to be in a MX style boot that offers all of the foot and ankle protection possible. The Adventure GTX boots do have armor, padding, and reinforcement in key areas, but not on the same level as a dedicated MX boot, which is why I want to make sure you understand their intended use to help you get the best results.
KLIM ADVENTURE GTX BOOTS Klim calls these boots Adventure Touring boots, and for the touring end of the spectrum, the Adventure GTX boot is a great option. In fact, it could very well be the only footwear you would need on a trip. They are going to be great on the bike, no matter how big your days are, and rain or snow isn’t going to impact your enjoyment of the ride at least as far as your feet are concerned. Every time you stop to explore something off the bike, these boots will work great for everything from a quick walk to a viewpoint, or a hike to an old mine or other cool site. When you get where you’re going for the day, you can wear these boots to dinner and kick back around a fire in equal comfort. As you venture off-road and toward the Adventure end of the spectrum with these boots, know that you’re signing yourself up for some additional maintenance to keep them performing at their best. BOA systems work better when they’re kept clean, so you need to wash these boots after you ride in them off-road. Foot support has felt great on long rides standing to blast miles of dirt road and single track, but again, know that these boots will not protect your feet and ankles like a proper MX boot – so I’ll leave it up to you to decide just how hard you want to adventure in these boots. My ADV riding in these boots has been a mix of on and off-road in dry dusty conditions, and with regular washing (washing the boots when I wash my bike) I haven’t noticed any issues in the performance of my BOAs. The greatest selling point of Klim’s Adventure GTX boot is that they can fit well enough and are comfortable enough that I don’t even think about walking or hiking wherever I want. So many times in the past, I’ve been out on a ride wearing other boots, and opted not to hike to see something simply because I didn’t want to smoke my feet for my efforts. Not only do my feet stay in place in these boots so I don’t get blisters, but the sole grips what I’m hiking around on, so scrambling up that loose slope is no longer a concern. These boots improve my adventures, in that they help me explore more freely off the bike and they’re much more comfortable than the old ADV boots I had been using. When I’m going to push it off-road on my 790, I’m still going to step into my MX boots. Yet, for everything other than that – the Adventure GTX boot is my new go-to. MSRP: $449.99 www.klim.com
KLIM GTX BOOTS
ESSENTIAL ADV ST R E A M L I N E D U T I L I T Y LO N G D I STA N C E C O M F O RT M I DW E I G H T A DV- R E A DY NEW CARLSBAD JAC K E T & PA N T KRIOS PRO HELMET
# K L IML IF E
K L I M .C O M
TM Husqvarna Husaberg GasGas Beta Sherco Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki Acerbis Airoh Helmet krapovic Alpinestars Answer Arai Helmets Asterisk Athena Avon Tyres Baja Designs Battery Tender Bike Maste oyesen Braking Brembo Bel-Ray Bridgestone Bullet Proof Designs Cometic Continental CV4 Cyrca Devol Did P Brakes DRC Hardware Dunlop E-Line Accessories EBC EFX EMIG Racing Enduro Engineering Evans Coolan xcel Factory Effex Fasst Company Firstgear Fluidyne Fly Racing Fox Racing Fox Racing 2 Ergonomics Gaerne alfer Giant Loop Moto Gopro GPR Stabilizer Hardcore Hepco & Becker Hinson HMF Hot Rods Hotcam RT-Offroad Funnelweb Filters SKF Seals Ride Engineering Hammerhead C2P Suspension Pelican ICON IMS ossy Oak JD Jetting K&N Klim Technical Riding Gear Kriega Strider Bikes Goldentyre JT Sprockets ZIP-TY ammerhead Fastaway E4S-Engineeered For Speed Adventure Medical Kits Troy Lee Designs R&G Racing omp Grip Appalachian Moto Products (AMP) GET Atlas Brace Technologies EVS Sports L.A. Sleeve Leat eoVince Light Speed Magura Marchesini Maxima Maxxis Metzeler Michelin Moose Motion pro Moto Tassina oto-Master Motorex N-Style NGK No Toil Nuetech Ogio Ohlins P3 Composites Pirelli Pivot Works PJ1 Polispor astics Pro Circuit Pro Moto Billet Pro Taper Pro Wheel Pro X Puig R&D RacerX Rekluse Renthal Sato Racing corpion Helmets Scott Scotts Performance Shinko Shorai Batteries Smith Optics Speed And Strengtyh Steahly ff Road Sunstar Suspension Direct Synergy System Tech T.M. Designworks Tag Metals Talon Thor TORC1 Tra ech TwinAir UFO Vertex Warn Wiseco Works Connection Works Shocks WP Suspension Yoshimura Yuasa Zeta ena 6D Helmets Wings Exhaust Seat Concepts Competition Werkes 100% Goggles Leo Vince Coober ECU KTM usqvarna Husaberg GasGas Beta Sherco Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki Acerbis Airoh Helmets Akrapovic pinestars Answer Arai Helmets Asterisk Athena Avon Tyres Baja Designs Battery Tender Bike Master Boyesen aking Brembo Bel-Ray Bridgestone Bullet Proof Designs Cometic Continental CV4 Cyrca Devol Did DP Brake RC Hardware Dunlop E-Line Accessories EBC EFX EMIG Racing Enduro Engineering Evans Coolant Exce actory Effex Fasst Company Firstgear Fluidyne Fly Racing Fox Racing Fox Racing 2 Ergonomics Gaerne Galfe iant Loop Moto Gopro GPR Stabilizer Hardcore Hepco & Becker Hinson HMF Hot Rods Hotcams SRT-Offroad unnelweb Filters SKF Seals Ride Engineering Hammerhead C2P Suspension Pelican ICON IMS Mossy Oak JD etting K&N Klim Technical Riding Gear Kriega Strider Bikes Goldentyre JT Sprockets ZIP-TY Hammerhead Nex omponents Fastaway E4S-Engineeered For Speed Adventure Medical Kits Troy Lee Designs R&G Racing omp Grip Appalachian Moto Products (AMP) GET Atlas Brace Technologies EVS Sports L.A. Sleeve Leat eoVince Light Speed Magura Marchesini Maxima Maxxis Metzeler Michelin Moose Motion pro Moto Tassina oto-Master Motorex N-Style NGK No Toil Nuetech Ogio Ohlins P3 Composites Pirelli Pivot Works PJ1 Polispor astics Pro Circuit Pro Moto Billet Pro Taper Pro Wheel Pro X Puig R&D RacerX Rekluse Renthal Sato Racing corpion Helmets Scott Scotts Performance Shinko Shorai Batteries Smith Optics Speed And Strengtyh Steahly ff Road Sunstar Suspension Direct Synergy System Tech T.M. Designworks Tag Metals Talon Thor TORC1 Tra ech TwinAir UFO Vertex Warn Wiseco Works Connection Works Shocks WP Suspension Yoshimura Yuasa TheWings ultimate (online) motorcycle multi-tool. Millions of Exhaust parts and accessories, right atWerkes your fingertips. eta Sena 6D Helmets Seat Concepts Competition 100% Goggles LeoVince Coobe CU KTM Husqvarna Husaberg GasGas Beta Sherco Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki Acerbis Airoh Helmet krapovic Alpinestars Answer Arai Helmets Asterisk Athena Avon Tyres Baja Designs Battery Tender Bike aster Boyesen Braking Brembo Bel-Ray Bridgestone Bullet Proof Designs Cometic Continental CV4 Cyrca evol Did DP Brakes DRC Hardware Dunlop E-Line Accessories EBC EFX EMIG Racing Enduro Engineering vans Coolant Excel Factory Effex Fasst Company Firstgear Fluidyne Fly Racing Fox Racing Fox Racing 2 gonomics Gaerne Galfer Giant Loop Moto Gopro GPR Stabilizer Hardcore Hepco & Becker Hinson HM ot Rods Hotcams SRT-Offroad Funnelweb Filters SKF Seals Ride Engineering Hammerhead C2P Suspension elican ICON IMS Mossy Oak JD Jetting K&N Klim Technical Riding Gear Kriega Strider Bikes Goldentyre J prockets ZIP-TY Hammerhead Fastaway E4S-Engineeered For Speed Adventure Medical Kits Troy Lee Design &G Racing Stomp Grip Appalachian Moto Products (AMP) GET Atlas Brace Technologies EVS Sports L.A eeve Leatt LeoVince Light Speed Magura Marchesini Maxima Maxxis Metzeler Michelin Moose Motion o Moto Tassinari Moto-Master Motorex N-Style NGK No Toil Nuetech Ogio Ohlins P3 Composites Pirelli Pivo orks PJ1 Polisport Plastics Pro Circuit Pro Moto Billet Pro Taper Pro Wheel Pro X Puig R&D RacerX Rekluse enthal Sato Racing Scorpion Helmets Scott Scotts Performance Shinko Shorai Batteries Smith Optics Speed nd Strengtyh Steahly Off Road Sunstar Suspension Direct Synergy System Tech T.M. Designworks Tag Metal alon Thor TORC1 Trail Tech TwinAir UFO Vertex Warn Wiseco Works Connection Works Shocks WP Suspension oshimura Yuasa Zeta Sena 6D Helmets Wings Exhaust Seat Concepts Competition Werkes 100% Goggle eoVince Coober ECU KTM Husqvarna Husaberg GasGas Beta Sherco Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuk cerbis Airoh Helmets Akrapovic Alpinestars Answer Arai Helmets Asterisk Athena Avon Tyres Baja Design attery Tender Bike Master Boyesen Braking Brembo Bel-Ray Bridgestone Bullet Proof Designs Cometic Motore TM Husqvarna Husaberg GasGas Beta Sherco Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki Acerbis Airoh Helmet krapovic Alpinestars Answer Arai Helmets Asterisk Athena Avon Tyres Baja Designs Battery Tender Bike Maste
HTTP://AOMC.MX
R RO
VE
ER
5
SM
SRMO 5V E RRO V
5 SM
ts er d nt e ms S Y g tt ari rt g y ail a M c n es el er d D xt g tt ari rt g y ail a er ts e a g 2 MF n JT ns A. n ot e d ls n es ki ns ex ts er
RIO CIN I N T R OIDNUTC ND GUTH EG N ETH WE N E W
IN T R O D U C I N G T H E N E W
5 DENSITY + HIRPO HIGH POLYMER PARAMETRIC 5 DENSITY EPS + EPS HIRPO HIGH IMPACTIMPACT POLYMER PARAMETRIC SHELL SHELL OBLIQUE IMPACT PROTECTION + PATENTED RELEASE SYSTEM OBLIQUE IMPACT PROTECTION + PATENTED VISOR VISOR RELEASE SYSTEM INTEGRATED COLLARBONE PROTECTION + LIGHTWEIGHT CONSTRUCTION COLLARBONE PROTECTION + LIGHTWEIGHT CONSTRUCTION 5INTEGRATED DENSITY EPS + HIRPO HIGH IMPACT POLYMER PARAMETRIC SHELL ERS - EMERGENCY RELEASE SYSTEM + ULTRA-VENTILATED DESIGN ERS EMERGENCY RELEASE SYSTEM + ULTRA-VENTILATED DESIGN OBLIQUE IMPACT PROTECTION + PATENTED VISOR RELEASE SYSTEM HYDRATION COMPATIBILITY HYDRATION COMPATIBILITY INTEGRATED COLLARBONE PROTECTION + LIGHTWEIGHT CONSTRUCTION ERS - EMERGENCY RELEASE SYSTEM + ULTRA-VENTILATED DESIGN ASTA LPIN E STA CO5MH/SM ALPINE R S. CO R MS. /SM E L M5EHTE L M E T HYDRATION COMPATIBILITY
A LPIN E STAR S. CO M / SM 5 H E L M E T
BY DAVID MARVIER
Well, it’s not big news. Everywhere in the world the lockdown was a damn rough time for every one of us, and I have to say, especially for motorcycle enthusiasts! Seriously, what’s worse than being stuck at home with toys just sitting useless in the garage? My friend Damien Marly, owner at Chipiron surfboards in Hossegor, France, told me a few months back that he was planning a big trail adventure around his hometown, but when the virus erupted, the trip’s momentum broke. After two months of being stuck at home, we finally had the opportunity to get out and ride within 100 km of home. Damien and our friend Julien, owner of Woll Beer, quickly organized three trail days. The distance constraint wasn’t going to stop us from having some fun. This is when I realized how lucky I am to live in such a wonderful playground nearby. To the West, the Atlantic Ocean and the vast beaches of the coastline; to the East, a wild land crossed only by a few sandy tracks, and finally, the mountains to the South, with rocky trails and curvy roads. It truly is one of the most amazing parts of the country. The idea was to gather a bunch of friends to ride trail bikes and big enduros, vintage or new. We took off from the Woll Beer headquarters every 15 minutes in groups of 4 or 5. What a sight it was to see all those bikes, Tenere, Africa Twin, XL, BMW and Ducatis, knowing they had been in their garages for weeks! It was great to have friends reunited again as well. Hossegor was our first destination, right up north through the Bask Country and its mountains. We were on our way with smiles on our faces.
BECOMING A BDR SUPPORTER HAS ITS REWARDS JOIN THE BDR FAMILY
If you’ve been enjoying everything BDR has to offer, one of the best ways to give back is becoming part of the annual BDR Supporter Program. Your contribution not only helps us continue on our mission of developing and preserving adventure riding opportunities across the US – it secures a few valuable perks for you as well. • Discounts and offers from over 30 ADV brands • Supporter Decal Kit • BDR exclusive gear • Gifts from select sponsors The 2021 Supporter Program is now open
ENROLL NOW
TOURATECH | MOTO DISCOVERY | KLIM | SENA | BACKCOUNTRY EXPEDITIONS REV’IT! | MOSKO MOTO | COLORADO MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES | MAX BMW BUTLER MAPS | REVER | WEST 38 MOTO | WOLFMAN LUGGAGE | GIANT LOOP UPSHIFT ONLINE | ADVMOTO MAGAZINE | BMW MOA
© 2021 Backcountry Discovery Routes. All rights reserved. Backcountry Discovery Routes and BDR are registered trademarks. Backcountry Discovery Routes is a 501c(3) non-profit organization.
RideBDR.com
Day ONE Julien kindly offered me his old Africa Twin XRV RD03 from 1988; the first edition. The bike was quite rustic, but it worked just fine. I love its look and the 650cc is a bit lighter than its youngest sisters powered by the 750cc. The twin cylinder seemed powerful enough to cross sand spits and pine needle mats. I was riding a legend, and the best news was that I had finally left my sofa! After a coffee we hit the road toward Urt, a small and quiet village close to the Adour River. The GPS trace lead us along some winding roads. Kilometers later we reached sweet muddy tracks where we began our off-road festivities; nothing too complicated. In addition to my old Africa Twin, we had a couple of brand new Teneres ridden by a few experienced pilots. No one was a professional racer or anything, we were all just enthusiasts of the sport, driven by our desire to enjoy landscapes, friends, and the thrill of riding wonderful machines. With wind in our happy faces memories of COVID-19 and lockdowns started to drift away. A few hours later, we passed through the legendary “Pas de Roland”. Roland was a soldier in 778 AD, one of King Charlemagne’s nephews. Fighting with his troops around Itxassou, he got struck by a giant rock while he was progressing by the river. To win the battle against the Bask, Roland whipped out his sword named “Durandal.” Legend has it, the sword was indestructible and the sharpest blade ever created. The brave hero was killed a few days later at the Roncevaux Pass but he has lived through story century after century. The Bask Country is a territory of deep traditions. The coast, even though quite tourist driven, remains very attractive with a strong surf culture and cute salty girls. The country side is very authentic with its foothills and mountains. This is where the Pyrenees Mountains begin. Isolated houses and farms, proudly wear green, white and red, the colors of the flag. All around, the vegetation is completely green as it rains a lot. Geographically positioned between the sea and mountains, the weather quickly alternates between heavy rain and warm sun throughout most of the year.
The language in this region is incomprehensible to those who are not from there, and its origins are lost in time. Every sign in the street is in both French and Bask. Visitors can still feel the strength of the local identity all over. Riding a motorcycle through this area is something you can’t really describe. It brings out a whole collection of emotions. And this is where we finished our first day, at the top of the mountains in “Artzamendi.” The light became warmer and softer as the group of riders rejoined to enjoy the moment. Between land and ocean, the landscape was breathtaking. Here, the mountain pass is inhabited by endangered, tiny horses called “Pottoks”, and the sky is filled with giant vultures. We were welcomed by a very nice family living nearby in a farm transformed into a cozy nest with horses and a sauna right in front of the mountains. It was a perfect spot to pitch the tent, have a well-deserved drink, and enjoy an after-ride party. Day
TWO
The next morning, after a quick breakfast and dealing with a small headache, we folded the tents, warmed up the bikes and left the camp to reach Peyrehorade, a small village built in the XI century, to protect the river named “Gave Réunis.” The Bask Country was far behind us now as we kept eating up kilometers of dust, mud, dust, sand, dust again, forests, valleys and passes. We then entered the “Landes” district. This is France’s largest district, characterized by its numerous pine trees, its duck gastronomy, and… Armagnac. We’ll talk about that later. On the way, Damien’s engine broke. We had to make a stop in a village to have a beer while he found a decent mechanic to inform us that an engine operates better when oiled. Too much heat and dust on this off road adventure I suppose.
Anyway, with more fear than pain, the Honda XL from the 90’s proved its strength once again! Our route took us deep into muddy forests full of curvy single tracks and, of course, hidden obstacles. I found a friend stuck under his bike covered by huge ferns and laughing like a madman. The ride was huge that day, we crossed many places and many kilometers until, just before sunset, we finally arrived at the castle, “Laballe” where we were warmly welcomed by Cyril Laudet, the owner. His vineyard is a unique property, established on a unique soil called “Sables Fauves,” literally, “fawn sands.” The castle has been in the family since 1820 and we savored a wonderful dinner there the day before the 200th anniversary. I loved listening to Cyril’s stories. In that warehouse were stored around 400 massive drums of 400 liters each! They contain a very precious eau-de-vie, the Armagnac, a sweet result of white wine distillation. That evening was a special moment of friendship and adventure that only a motorcycle trip could provide!
Day THREE After a quick coffee we got started to reach our final destination, Capbreton, at Woll headquarters crossing Souston. That last day the riders started to feel the two previous days in their legs and arms. The tracks snaked deep into the pine forests with long stretches of soft, hot sand. After a few kilometers we had to cross a route full of fallen trees. It was good enduro practice, which I especially enjoyed and where the old Africa Twin revealed itself to be quite efficient. I also had a warm memory occur to me of a friendly teacher who told me how to pass these kind of obstacles back in the days when I first touched off-road trails. The trip concluded and everyone seemed to have left far happier and rejuvenated than three days prior. This adventure was an incredible treat, and to do it with friends and fellow enthusiasts by my side made it infinitely more memorable. This trip proved once again that the human being is a social animal.
b u z z w o r t h y C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S D A K A R
2 0 2 1
D A N I E L
R O O K I E
208-417-1726 I SEATCONCEPTS.COM
Custom Suspension Solutions 1501 Pomona Road — Corona, CA 92880-6990 — Phone: 951.279.6655 — www.racetech.com
SOUTHEASTERN SPA
Travis Gill of viajarMOTO.com
We remember the feelings and the emotions we felt after having our travel plans come to a screeching, no ABS skidding halt in Cartagena, Spain. Chantil and I were only a few weeks into our full-time motorcycle travels and were now in the thick of a complete country-wide lockdown and quarantine. We experienced frustration, sympathy, and finally acceptance. In the end we were grateful. The three-month lockdown forced us to slow down and reconsider our travel timeline. Our initial plan was to ride through nearly every country in Europe in a year. Not an impossible task but definitely a challenging one, especially if we planned on seeing many of the tourist destinations and cultural sites along the way. Once the travel lockdown was lifted in June, we had another 90 days of travel time on our visas. Instead of trying to focus on seeing as much of Europe as we could in those 90 days, we decided to spend it in just Spain and Portugal.
AIN AND PORTUGAL
Iberian Peninsula The Iberian Peninsula of Europe includes the countries of Spain, Portugal, Andorra, and the British overseas territory of Gibraltar. Size wise it is comparable to about 84 percent of Texas and the population of the Iberian Peninsula is nearly double that of the Lone Star State. We got to experience both Spain and Portugal for four and a half months, however, three months of that was restricted to the region of Murcia, on Spain’s southeast coast, due to the COVID pandemic. Our motorcycle travels stayed mostly along the coastal regions of these two countries. We started in the northeast and made our way clockwise around the peninsula winding between the various regions, experiencing their uniqueness and diversities.
Hola Espana Catalonia was the first region we entered after crossing the Pyrenees mountains from France. On our first day we experienced heavy winds that made for an interesting and expensive day. In the afternoon we found a gravel road that brought us to a beautiful overlook with incredible views of the Mediterranean Sea. I wanted to capture the moment, so I set up the camera on a tripod. Within seconds the fierce winds blew it over, smashing it into a rock, and damaging the retractable lens. While I was surveying the extent of damage, the winds knocked over my motorcycle! I set my helmet down to pick up my motorcycle and it too started blowing away! This was not a particularly great way to start our travels in Spain! Fortunately the rest of our Catalonia experience was much better. That next morning, in Port Lligat, we woke to one of the most spectacular sunrises we’ve ever experienced, enjoyed visiting the home and museum of the extravagant artist Salvador Dali, and purchased a replacement camera in the busy capital city of Barcelona.
SPAIN
SPAIN PORTUGAL
SPAIN
Side Trip to Andorra Andorra is a small country situated between France and Spain in the mountains of the Pyrenees. We expected amazing mountain views, but were somewhat surprised with the amount of shopping centers and tax-free boutiques. Gas is also much cheaper – 1.30 USD less per gallon! We made sure to fill up our internal and external tanks before leaving. Since we were visiting one of the tiniest countries in Europe, we decided to visit the Miniature Museum in Ordino. This charming museum features the extraordinary microscopic artwork of Ukrainian artist Nikolai Syadristy where he expertly crafts the tiniest of scenes inside the eye of a needle!
Back into Spain From Andorra, we ventured back to Spain to the pastured lands, orchards, and arid steppe plains of the Aragon region. Our primary reason for riding into Aragon was to visit the town of Borja. This small and modest town was made world famous in 2012, when a well-meaning parishioner attempted to restore a fresco of Jesus Christ. The spectacularly bad restoration resulted in what looked to be a monkey wearing a tunic and has been called one of “the worst art restoration projects of all time.� The day before we reached the coastal city of Cartagena, the prime minister of Spain declared a State of Alarm, locking down the entire country. We were fortunate to find a countryside Airbnb with a wonderful hostess who took us in during those uncertain times. After 56 days we were allowed to travel again, although limited to the region of Murcia. We enjoyed exploring coastal fortresses, sunny beaches, and even rode a 119 mile (192 km) section of the Trans Euro Trail. See Upshift issue 51.
SPAIN
SPAIN PORTUGAL
After 92 days of travel restrictions, we were ready to explore anything! Fortunately Spain’s southern Andalusia regions offered plenty of opportunities. This region was especially interesting since many civilizations have influenced and shaped the history here. The Carthaginians, Romans, Moorish, and Spanish Kingdoms, have all left their mark. The cities of Granada, Córdoba, Malaga, and Seville are full of such cultural diversity that it’s not uncommon to visit the remains of a Roman theater, a Moorish marketplace, a Spanish castle, and a renaissance Roman Catholic cathedral all within minutes of each other. The Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba and the Alhambra palace and fortress complex in Granada are both definitely worth visiting. Our final day in Spain was spent in Port of Palos at the Muelle de las Carabelas learning about the historic expedition of three ships - Santa Maria, Pinta, and Niña. On August of 1492, the crew of these three ships and Christopher Columbus set sail to find a passage to China and India. We especially enjoyed walking aboard these full-sized restorations and imagining ourselves crossing the unforgiving ocean into the unknown.
SPAIN
SPAIN PORTUGAL
Bem-vindo a Portugal!
After crossing the Puente Internacional del Guadiana bridge, we were in a new country! The southern region of Algarve is famous for its Atlantic coastline, warm climate, and great beaches. The highlight for me was visiting the Capela de Ossis Bone Chapel in Faro. This small chapel, located to the rear of the Igreja do Carmo church, is where the skulls and bones of over 1,200 monks have been cemented into the walls and ceiling, with a creepy, but satisfying symmetry. The Alentejo region of Portugal is more rural with a diverse range of landscapes from farms, forests, and rolling hills. As we were riding along the coastal road we noticed large orchards of gnarly, reddish, oak trees with numbers painted on their trunks. They all seemed to have the bark stripped away from the trunk. It turns out that these are cork trees! In fact, a majority of the worlds cork used for wine bottle stoppers, bulletin boards, flooring, and fishing rod handles comes from this region of Portugal. We were welcomed into Lisbon with a feeling of dĂŠjĂ vu as we entered the city from the south. The 25 de Avril Bridge, which was named after the Carnation Revolution of 1974 and the beginning of a democratic Portugal, has a similar design and color as the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. We stayed in Lisbon for a few days to enjoy exploring the colorful street art and learning about the history and culture of one of the oldest cities in Europe. Just 30 minutes from Lisbon, is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sintra. This lush and mountainous region is known for its fairytale palaces, medieval castles, and historic estates, villas, and gardens. We toured the Pena Palace, climbed the stairs of the Castle of the Moors, and enjoyed our first ride in an open-aired Italian Ape Calessino three-wheeled vehicle!
SPAIN
SPAIN PORTUGAL
SPAIN
At the end of the day we watched the sun dip into the Atlantic Ocean from the steep rocky cliffs and monument at Cabo de Roca. This location is one of the extremes of Europe signifying the furthest western point of continental Europe. Perhaps someday we’ll visit the other extreme points of Europe: Punta de Tarifa in the South, Cape Nordkinn to the north, and Ngodyayakha Mountain in the east. During our final week in Portugal we continued riding north where we experienced cooler temperatures and remote roads far from the hustle and bustle of cities and towns. In this region traffic consists of an occasional farmer giving you a friendly smile and a wave. We especially enjoyed the winding roads and trails of the Peneda-Geres National Park with the backroads from the Granaries of Soajo to the northern border of Spain being especially memorable.
Memories of a Lifetime
As we looked back through our favorite photographs of Spain and Portugal from the last 3,660 miles (5890 km) it’s difficult to imagine that we briefly (very briefly) considered storing our mules in southern Spain and returning to the United States. We’re extremely grateful that we stuck it out and have some of our favorite memories of the diverse regions of the spectacular Iberian Peninsula to show for it. About viajarMOTO: After being inspired by Upshift writers and photographers like Tim Burke, Michnus Olivier, Olivier de Vaulx, and many others, Travis and Chantil Gill started their own full-time motorcycle travel in early 2020. You can follow them on their website www.viajarMOTO.com and on YouTube, Facebook, and Instagram.
VOYAGER
FIN DA FO RO RG UT EA E PA TH
VOYAGER PRO GPS
DIGITAL GAUGES RADIATOR GUARDS FAN KITS KICKSTANDS
VAPOR
STRIKER
ENDURANCE II
TTO
THE RIGHT TOOLS Easily Remove and Install Your Heim Joint Bearing Without Damaging the Swing Arm
Removal shown with the 08-0654
Heim Joint tool for Ktm Removes and replaces the heim joint on PDS equipped KTM models, built-in stop centers heim joint in the swing arm for easy installation
For use on KTM and Husaberg up to 2016
Part No. 08-0654
Part No. 08-0434
@motionpro
@motionprofans
@motionpro84
For use on 2017+ XC-W, XCF-W, EXC, and EXC-F models
Find your local dealer at MOTIONPRO.COM
WORDS: FREDDIE LEX
PHOTOS: OLIVIER DE VAULX
Kicking up dust gets even easier with Honda’s surprisingly capable CB500X These days most manufacturers associate big adventure with big features, and an even bigger price tag. But not everyone has, nor the desire to have, a huge pricey adventure-touring rig in the garage. Enter Honda’s easy-riding CB500X ($6,799). Designed as an entry-level—do a little bit of everything adventure bike, Big Red’s 500 is a solid option for folks who don’t dream of blitzing the Baja 1000 course. Positioned toward entry-level riders, the CB500X is powered by Honda’s compact and fuel-sipping 471cc parallel-twin. It has more acceleration pep compared to other manufacturer’s newbie-oriented bikes (think KTM’s 390 Adventure and Kawasaki’s Versys-X 300) but not so much that engineer power to be intimidating. In typical Honda form, the powertrain is docile, yet responsive when asked, and ready to put in work. Horsepower is put back to a conventional and road-friendly 17-inch cast aluminum rim through a manual six-speed gearbox and cable-actuated clutch. Folks without a muscular left forearm will appreciate the light and wispy clutch lever pull which makes for easy launches. The gear ratios are spaced nicely so tackling steep inclines in first gear is as easy as releasing the clutch lever, yet top gear is tall enough for a comfy and not overly buzzy ride at freeway speeds. The clutch mechanism incorporates slipper function which eliminates instability when downshifting in too low of a gear for vehicle speed. There’s no adjustable engine power modes, nor traction control, but considering how smooth and palatable the CB’s twin is, we didn’t miss these features. We also appreciate how little the engine vibrates and its above average fuel mileage (we measured a 53 mpg average). This gives the CB rider generous distance between fill-ups based on the 4.6-gallon fuel tank.
Ergonomically it feels very much like a standard midsize street bike with a slim and upright seating position. A manual-adjustable windscreen does a fine job of protecting the rider from the elements and the saddle is wide and comfy. There’s room for two, if a partner wants to tag along. LED lighting illuminates dark stretches of roadway effectively, however, the negative lit LCD instrument panel (white fonts on a dark background) could be larger and is a tad difficult to read at freeway speeds. Still, we value little things like the gear position indicator and a fuel gauge. The 434-pound CB rides well and delivers a cozy ride on the street. The suspension goes over bumps well and delivers a pleasing ride quality. Of course, the damping character is a tad on the soft/fast damping side when ridden at a speedy pace. Still, it’s respectable for a budget-oriented road bike. Off-road however, the suspension performs better than expected. The CB500X has over five inches of suspension travel and puts it to good use. Pair that with the intuitive ergonomics and the CB will surprise you with its competency beyond paved surfaces. It rolls on a 19-inch front and 17-inch rear cast alloy wheels, shod with Dunlop’s versatile Trailmax rubber that gives a surefooted grip over a variety of terrain. The larger diameter front rim helps get over bigger obstacles i.e. rocks, holes, etc., yet doesn’t affect a wide, stable footprint on tarmac. Pundits will likely gripe that it doesn’t employ a 21/18 spoked wheel combo, but based on its intended use and all-around capability, the CB’s setup is both functional and capable for most that want to occasionally dabble in the dirt.
Dual hydraulic manual disc brakes keep speed in check, and the components do a fine job of slowing this 400some pound motorcycle. Brake bite is on the soft side, which is welcome when riding on slick hardpack terrain. We also value the rear brake’s sharp, but not overly so response which boosts effectiveness in the dry stuff. Although ABS is available for an up-charge, considering the brakes’ friendly lever bite, we didn’t miss this feature. On the other hand, we value the ability to lock the back brake to maneuver the vehicle. The CB500X certainly won’t be everyone’s cup of tea. However, for would-be adventure riders who want an affordable road bike that’s not afraid of getting dirty every now and then, they’ll be pumped on this Honda. It blends a high-level of efficiency, road riding street cred with a level of capability that will surprise most practical and budget-minded adventurers. www.powersports.honda.com
WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!
Idaho’s largest powersports dealership, family owned and operated since 1966. We are the premier Honda, Husqvarna, Kawasaki, KTM, Polaris and Suzuki powersports dealership in the Northwest. Visit us at carlscycle.com. Call us at 208-853-5550. Or, stop by our store at 5550 W. State Street, Boise, Idaho for all your powersports needs.
MON - FRI 9AM - 6PM SAT
9AM - 3PM
SUN
CLOSED