OMEGA SPORTWATCH Photographed and written by John Goldberger
DAMIANI©2007 DAMIANI Editore Via Zanardi, 376 Tel. +39.051.6350805 Fax +39.051.6347188 40131 Bologna - Italy www.damianieditore.it info@damianieditore.it Printed in Italy Grafiche Damiani s.r.l. www.grafichedamiani.it
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All photographs used by permission © John Goldberger
Introductions by Giampiero Negretti
text © John Goldberger © Giampiero Negretti No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the permission of the publisher
OMEGA is registered trade mark of OMEGA sa
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Sports Models 4
OMEGA
SPORTS MODELS On land, at sea, in the sky, even in space: Omega has competed in all these environments and often won. In sport, exploration, great races, in conquering the depths and the cosmos the Omega name has always been present and it was frequently the key to success. The chronograph worn by Thomas Edward Lawrence, better known as “Lawrence of Arabia” was an Omega – it is now on display at the Maison museum: a large aviator’s watch with a silver case, the dial in white enamel with double numerals and on the back of the case the “broad arrow” the symbol of the British army. It was also an Omega chronograph that landed and walked on the moon. About half a century separates the ventures that these two watches took part in, but the fame of the Maison dates back even further. It was 1848 when Louis Brandt opened his workshop in Le Chaux-de-Fonds, a “comptoir d’ètablissage” that grew steadily until in 1879 it was moved to Bienne by his two sons. The following year the company made its first calibre, a cylinder movement produced using advanced mechanical procedures, with which the first brands, as we would call them today, were produced: although they are names that do not sound familiar, like Décimal, Jura, Himalaya, Casanova, Gurzelen and Patria. Omega would only appear in March 1894, when the name was registered as a brand: originally, in fact the letter of the Greek alphabet had been chosen to define an innovative nineteen-line calibre
with interchangeable parts, which offered excellent performance at a reasonable price, characteristics that have always characterised the products of the Maison. That name and that calibre were to make the company famous throughout the world, as it grew to become a model of productive capacity. In 1896, with a production rate of two hundred and forty thousand watches per year, of which one hundred thousand carried the name Omega, the company Louis Brandt & Frère was the most important in Switzerland and only four years later the production of Omega watches alone would rise to six hundred pieces a day, that is one watch per minute. In the meantime, the house had created its first wrist watch with minute repeater and its watches
had been adopted by the Serbian and Swiss railways, by the American expedition to the Philippines and by the Belgrade military academy. The first developments in military wrist watches occurred during the Boer War (1899-1902), after which supplies to the armed forces of various countries grew steadily, to mention only a few: the Bulgarian army, the Royal Air Force, the USA army and the Italian Air Force, by the Second World War one hundred and ten thousand watches had been supplied altogether and like the RAF, the Canadian and Australian Air Forces preferred Omega. Apart from their reliability, the principle characteristic of the military models, Omega watches have always been famous for their precision as is witnessed by the numerous awards won at competitions in astronomical observatories. Like its great rival, Rolex, which would be used in many sectors, Omega was 6
also convinced of the validity of its product: these were the years in which the quality of a watch was judged less for its design and aesthetic qualities, and more for its precision in timekeeping, since a watch was mainly considered an instrument. Many different prestigious names battled for primacy boasting of the results attained by their watches. In 1919 the chronometers built at Bienne won the competition at the Neuchâtel Observatory and in 1933 they established the world precision record in all the categories at Kew Teddington (London), an observatory where a new world record for pocket watches would be established (with 97.8 points out of 100) and, in 1946 for a wrist watch, which with 97.2 points attained the highest score ever reached by a model of its kind. An exploit that would be confirmed in 1963 by the observatories in Neuchâtel and Geneva, where the Omega watches beat the records in all categories. Precision also means sport, a sector the company entered in 1909, measuring the times of the Gordon Bennet Cup balloon race in Zurich, an area which reached its zenith in 1932, when Omega was entrusted exclusively with the timing of all the disciplines at the Los Angeles Olympic Games: a task that continues today, although at times together with other names from the group to which Omega now belongs, and which has been extended to the Winter Olympic Games. But a great manufacturer like Omega (in 1963 the company crossed threshold of one million watches sold) could certainly not rest on its laurels with regard to its sales policy and its relations with 8
the company agents, amongst the latter are three who made a considerable contribution to the growth of the Maison: they were known as “the three musketeers”: Charles Bauty of Lausanne, Paul Emmanuel Dorot of Paris and Carlo de Marchi from Torino. The Italian agent, in particular, was the forerunner of modern marketing techniques, he launched an important advertising campaign, introduced the recommended retail price, eliminating the “ad personam” discount, that is a price based on the impression that the client had made on the retailer; he supplied retailers with a window dressing service so that they all had the same image, providing sales outlets (in Italy in the sixties there were almost 100) with standardised signs, displays and advertising material. A great personality in the field of watches, in just a few years Carlo de Marchi increased the sales of Omega and Tissot watches (the two brands were combined in 1930 giving rise to the group SSIH, which subsequently, in 1985, grew into SMH under the guidance of Nicolas Hayek, and from 1998 into Swatch Group) by around 500 per cent. Merit that was naturally due above all to the quality of the watches, first of all the three sports models that were all born in 1957 and which are the protagonists of this volume: the Railmaster, the Seamaster and certainly the most famous the Speedmaster. Yet we must also mention the more elegant models such as the Constellation or the ones so much appreciated by collectors, with the dial in cloisonné enamel, like the three models made in the forties and fifties and decorated with a sort of four-petalled flower (“Fantasia”); with a starry sky (“Observatory”) or with the god of the sea (“Neptune’s chariot”): a series that sums up all the characteristics of Omega watches, elegance, precision and sportiness.
A very rare silver double dial keyless lever chronograph watch, with three-body hinged case. The present watch is a fine example of a socalled “chronotachymètre” patented by Omega in 1906, 58 mm diam.
Chronograph button in the large gold plated metal pear-shaped crown, 10 mm diam.
White enamel dial with Kirby Beard & Co. LD, Omega Paris retailer, signature on the dial and french patent SGDG (Sans Garantie de Gouvernement= without government guarantee).
The glazed reverse revealing the movement, bimetallic compensation balance with swan neck regulator. Outer white enamel ring with black and red tachymetre scales.
Gilt-finished jewelled lever movement, bimetallic compensation balance, Omega caliber 19’’’ CHRO. This watch was manufactured in circa 1910.
White enamel dial with black stilized Arabic numerals, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, outer five tachymetre scales painted in red, blue, yellow, green and black, for reading speeds between 10,5 and 250 km/ h. Subsidiary dial indicating 15 minute register, gilt spade hands. 10
An extremely rare stainless steel double-button chronograph wristwatch. Three–body case with moveable wire lugs, enamel dial, reference KMA 741 AN. 44 mm diam.
Stainless steel three-body case, gold plated chronograph button in the crown, 8 mm diam.
Stainless steel snap on back stamped with Omega symbol and serial number 8192378.
Gold plated oval chronograph button between the moveable wire lug.
Gilt-finished lever movement bi-metallic compensation balance, Omega caliber 39 CHRO, nr. 7568018. This watch was manufactured in 1929 and delivered on 8-2-1930 to official agent in Brazil.
White enamel dial with black stilized Arabic numerals, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, gold “Breguet” hands, two subsidiary dials indicating 30 minutes register and costant seconds. 12
Highly unusual and rare oversized stainless steel aviator’s wristwatch with bi-directional revolving bezel with arrow-index for determining duration of flight, soldered lugs. Reference CK 2000, 46 mm diam.
Stainless steel snap on back stamped with Omega symbol and serial number 8782896, mild steel amagnetic cover stamped with serial number 8782896.
Nickel plated metal ball-shaped crown 8 mm diam.
Original 1940 Omega catalogue’s photo of reference CK 2000.
Gilt finished lever movement, 17 jewels, bimetallic compensation balance, Omega caliber 40,6 SAV T2, nr. 7582890. This watch was manufactured in 1937 and delivered on 23-11-1938 to official agent in Poland.
Black dial with luminous Arabic numerals, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, luminous hands, subsidiary seconds.
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Highly unusual and rare oversized stainless steel aviator’s wristwatch with bi-directional revolving bezel with arrow-index for determining duration of flight, downturned extended lugs. Reference CK 2042, 40 mm diam.
Bi-directional revolving stainless steel bezel engraved 12 hours with luminous arrow-index for determining duration of flight, black dial with luminous Arabic numerals and outer white track with 1/5 seconds division.
Stainless steel snap on back stamped with Omega symbol and serial number 9532087.
Original 1940 Omega catalogue’s photo of reference CK 2042.
Nickel-finished lever movement, 15 jewels, bimetallic compensation balance, Omega caliber 26,5 T2, nr. 8820445. This watch was manufactured in 1938 and delivered on 8-12-1938 to official agent in Germany.
Black enamel dial with luminous Arabic numerals, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, “Baton” luminous hands, subsidiary seconds.
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An interesting stainless steel water-proof wristwatch mod. “Marine”. Omega ingenious removable double case with patent design . Reference CK 679 , 24,5mm wide & 35mm overall lenght.
Rectangular stainless steel outer slide case can be locked by a hinged flip lock located at the back of the watch.
Stainless steel case stamped with Omega symbol, serial number 8863072, Swiss, French, British, U.S. and German patent numbers.
Original 1940 Omega catalogue’s photo of references CK 679 and CK 680.
Nickel-finished lever movement , 15 jewels, bimetallic compensation balance, Omega caliber 19,4 SOB T2, nr. 8316898. This watch was manufactured in 1932 and delivered on 20-2-1939 to official agent in China.
Two-tone silvered dial with black Arabic numerals and luminous hands and dots.
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A very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch, circular waterresistant type case with screw back, stepped bezel, downturned lugs. Reference CK 2077, 38,5 mm diam.
Screw back stamped with stainless steel mark.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with serial number 10122142, engraved with E. Goldbing BMW words and nr . 716.
Two-body stainless steel case with two circular chronograph buttons 4 mm diam, nickel-plated crown 7 mm diam.
Nickel-finished lever movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 33,3 CHRO, nr. 9390508. This watch was manufactured in 1938 and delivered on 12-10-1942.
Matte dark grey dial with Arabic numerals, outer track with 1/5 seconds division and tachymetre scale, two subsidiary dials indicating costant seconds and 30 minutes register, white skeleton hands. 20
A very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch, circular waterresistant type case with screw back, stepped bezel, downturned lugs. Reference CK 2077-3, 38,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol and reference number 2077-3.
Two-body stainless steel case with two circular push chronograph buttons 4 mm diam. Nickel-plated crown embossed with Omega symbol, 6,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back.
Nickel-finished lever movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 33,3 CHRO, nr. 9600464. This watch was manufactured in ? and delivered on ???
Matte pink dial with black Arabic numerals, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, red tachymetre scale and white telemetre scale, two subsidiary dials indicating costant seconds and 30 minutes register, blued steel “Spade� hands. 22
A very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch, large circular case with snap on back and downturned lugs. Reference ?? , 37 mm diam.
Stainless steel snap on back stamped with Omega symbol and serial number 9554580.
Three-body stainless steel case with flat large bezel and dowturned lugs, two push chronograph buttons: start-stop at 2 o’clock , return to zero on the button in the crown.
Matte black dial with Omega retailer’s signature Rud Nicklaus Berne.
Gilt-finished lever movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 33,3 CHRO, nr. 9382364. This watch was manufactured in ? and delivered on ???
Matte black dial with Arabic numerals, outer track 1/5 seconds division and telemetre scale, inner tachymetre scale, two subsidiary dials indicating costant seconds and 30 minutes register, stainless steel “Baton” hands. 24
A very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch, large circular case with snap on back and downturned lugs. Reference CK 2393 , 37,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel snap on back stamped with Omega symbol and serial number 10124016.
Three-body stainless steel case with downturned lugs. Oval-shaped chronograph button 6x2,5 mm.
Matte silvered dial with outer and inner blue tachymetre scales, green scale graduated for 30 pulsations and inner red telemetre scale.
Nickel-finished lever movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 33,3 CHRO, nr. 9392338. This watch was manufactured in 1943 and delivered on 26-5-1943 to the German Military Forces.
Matte silvered dial with Arabic numerals and three different coloured scales, two subsidiary dials indicating costant seconds and 30 minutes register, gold “Spade� hands. 26
A very rare stainless steel “Chronometer” wristwatch, large circular case with snap on back and downturned lugs. Reference CK 2367, 36 mm diam.
Stainless steel snap on back stamped with Omega symbol and reference number 2367.
Two-tone silvered dial, outer track with 1/5 seconds division.
Guillame balance with micrometric regulator .
Copper-finished Chronometer movement, 16 jewels, Omega caliber 30 T2 SC RG, nr. 9827005. This watch was manufactured in 1943 and delivered on 18-4-1945 to the official agent in Turkey.
Two-tone silvered dial with black Arabic numerals, stainless steel “Feuille” hands and sweep centre seconds.
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A very rare stainless steel chronograph keyless lever watch, with three-body polished case. Reference CK 1067, 50 mm diam.
Stainless steel snap on back stamped with Omega symbol and serial number 9571856.
Two-tone dark grey dial with outer and inner gilt tachymetre scale, red telemetre scale and inner white scale graduated for 30 pulsations.
Original 1940 Omega catalogue’s photo of reference CK 1067.
Gilt-finished lever movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 39 CHRO, nr. 8687678. This watch was manufactured in 1940 and delivered on 5-31940 to the official agent in Serbia.
Two-tone dark grey dial with multicolours scales, two subsidiary dials indicating costant seconds and 30 minutes register, white “Spade” hands. 30
A fine stainless steel military wristwatch, special edition for the pilots of the R.A.F. manufactured in 25000 pieces. Reference CK 2444, 35 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with “wristwatch water-proof” and Broad Arrow mark, Omega symbol and serial number 10686314.
Water-resistant-type case with downturned lugs and fixed bars. Screw back stamped with Broad Arrow and WWW mark, serial number 10686314 and number Y22115.
Water-resistant-type stainless steel case, lead “O” gasket, screw back stamped with Broad Arrow and WWW mark, serial number 10686314, the Broad Arrow logo is indicating “Government Issued Property”.
Nickel-finished lever movement, 15 jewels, special adjustment, Omega caliber 30 T2 RS, nr. 10199604, this watch was manufactured in 1945 and delivered on 4-7-1945 to the British “Royal Air Force”.
Matte black military dial with white Arabic numerals and luminous accents, subsidiary seconds, luminous hands . Omega and Broad Arrow signature. 32
A very interesting stainless steel open face keyless level split-second chronograph watch. Four-body case, reference CK 1156, 65 mm diam.
External side of the stainless steel case stamped with serial number 1282006.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol and reference number CK 1156-62.
Omega green metal box with eight split-seconds chronograph watches for measuring time of the athletes.
Rodium-finished lever split-second chronograph movement , 22 jewels, Omega caliber 206 nr. 1282006, this watch was manufactured in ?
Matte black dial signed with yellow number 406. White Arabic numerals, exterior white ring with 1/10 seconds scale. Two subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds and 30 minutes register, white “Baton� hands. 34
A rare stainless steel water-resistant wristwatch, mod. “Ranchero”. Original Omega box. Two-body stainless steel case. Reference CK 2996, 36 mm diam.
Stainless steel water-resistant case with downturned lugs, stainless steel Omega bracelet mod. 32-310.
Matte black dial signed with “Ranchero” and depth of 30 metres.
Stainless steel snap on back stamped with Omega symbol and reference 2996 4 SC.
Copper-finished lever movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 285, nr. 17892806. This watch was manufactured in ?
Matte black dial with white Arabic numerals and luminous stylized accents, sweep centre seconds, luminous arrow head hour hand. Original hesalite glass engraved in the center with Omega symbol. 36
An interesting stainless steel wristwatch, mod. Dynamic designed by Raymond Thevenaz and launched in 1968. The Omega “best seller” with more than a million watches sold. Reference 166033, 36,5 mm wide & 42 mm overall lenght .
Two-body oval-shaped stainless steel water-proof case, leather bracelet.
Stainless steel eliptical shape case stamped with Omega symbol, references numbers and italian case maker Fernando Fontana hallmark.
Leather bracelet with stainless steel buckle embossed with Omega symbol.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, Omega caliber 565, nr. 26735612. This watch was manufactured in 1967 and delivered on 309-1968 to the official agent in Sweden.
White dial with luminous indexes, “Flèche” orange seconds hand.
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SEAMASTER The Seamaster has two birthdays: the first, which dates from 1948, refers to the presentation of the first model to carry this name; the second, 1957, was the date the first diver’s watch with specifically professional characteristics was offered to the public. However, the true forerunner of the Seamaster was the Marine from 1932. Patented two years earlier, it had a square cut steel case, made of two screwtogether parts. It represented, though with very different characteristics, the company’s response to the Rolex Oyster and was the first step in a technological challenge between the two houses that continues today. Though not specifically designed for the professionals of the deep, the Marine behaved perfectly during its more than twenty-five year career: it was tested by the pioneer of underwater exploration, William Beebe, with repeated immersions in the Pacific in 1936 and the following year it was subjected to a ‘field test’ resisting for 14 hours at a depth of 135 metres without coming to any harm.
1948 saw the launch of the Seamaster: an automatic model with a round case that was offered in a standard version with central second hand, or the chronometer version with small second hand. With aesthetics and performance more sporty than professional (the dial, for example, was silvered and not black), the Seamaster crowned the dream of all those who wanted a watch for all occasions: from elegant outings to dynamic free time, from swimming to golf. The major turning point came in 1957 with the launch of the Seamaster 300, a watch for professional use with calibre 28 SC-501 automatic movement, rounded case with screw-on back, rotating bezel with numerals and triangular riveted hour markers, black dial with luminous numerals and hands (the hour hands were the ‘broad arrow’ type), very thick mineral glass and steel bracelet. It could withstand depths of up to 200 metres: the same performance offered by the Rolex Submariner 6538 which had just come onto 42
the market. The Seamaster 300 remained popular for a number of years and the second series, launched in 1965 was given a new movement (the calibre 565 with also with date window), a new bezel (wider and with more indices and numerals and a new case, identical to the Speedmaster. On the wrist of the Comex divers, the new Seamaster descended, in a simulated depth test, to 365 metres. However the developments in submarine research required even more advanced instruments and in 1970, as well as the 120 and the 200 models, the Seamaster 600 was born, known as the “PloProf” (Plongeurs Professionels): automatic calibre 1002, steel case (there were also a few prototypes in titanium), of a completely new shape, screw-on back, monolithic mineral crystal, screw crown at 9 o’clock, with protective shoulders and blocking bar, rotating bezel with safety pusher to prevent accidental movement, black dial and large hands, which were of course luminous, with the minute hands outlined in orange. Water resistant to 600 metres, it was tested in the laboratory to the possible limits, but it gave up at 1370 metres, above all due to the deformation of the case and the glass, but with the movement still in perfect condition. Famous (it was also seen on the wrist of Gianni Agnelli), used
some with a quartz movement as the trend of the period demanded, but amongst the mechanical models is the Seamaster 120 from 1972, which was the first chronograph in the collection: fitted with the calibre 1040, it was guaranteed to 120 metres, the depth at which the pushers were also guaranteed to work. With a barrel case that recalled the 1000 model, the chronograph was also made with an octagonal case, but with rounded corners, in black or opaque silver, since it was made of steel treated with silicon carbide. In 1988 the Seamaster, with the Professional 200 model toned down its professional appearance becoming more elegant, more ‘metropolitan’ (which increased the market), without however losing anything in the constructive quality: with automatic calibre 1111 movement, it was chronometer certified and water resistant to 200 metres: the more elegant design did not prejudice the technical characteristics and the watch took part in further expeditions and scientific underwater explorations. 1993 saw the start of a second ‘adolescence’ for the historical model with the presentation of the Seamaster Professional 300 (calibre 1109) and the Seamaster Professional Chrono in numerous underwater expeditions and today very much sought after by collectors, the Seamaster 600 was, from a professional point of view, the counterpart to the Rolex Sea Dweller, but unlike this watch it did not have a helium valve, since the case was absolutely hermetic and the gas could not penetrate it. The following year it was the turn of the Seamaster 1000m, the most watertight of all the family: with the monobloc case in a conventional barrel shape and the screw crown on the left, it used the same 1002 calibre but it could resist to a depth of 1,000 metres. During the seventies a number of models appeared,
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Diver (calibre 1154): with the case in steel, titanium or even in gold and both water resistant up to 300 metres, they were characterised by the helium valve, the chronometer certificate and the chronograph they had pushers that functioned at maximum depth. The new models not only graced the wrists of famous swimmers and record holding divers, they also became ‘actors’ in the James Bond films starring Pierce Brosnan. The subsequent significant evolution (in the meantime a GMT model had been added to the range) was the present version which has a co-axial escapement movement designed by George Daniels and perfected by Omega. Launched in 1999, this type of escapement has a chronometer certificate and is currently used on the Seamaster chronographs, which include the Aqua Terra, with the regatta function (water resistant to 150 metres) and the Planet Ocean, available also in the time only version: a model currently enjoying great success (especially in the version with an orange bezel) and water resistant to 600 metres.
A very rare stainless steel water-proof wristwatch, mod. Seamaster 300. Three-body case with screw back, reference CK 2913, 39 mm diam. This watch was one of the three specialty watches Omega came out in 1957, the two other models were Speedmaster and Railmaster.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker HF hallmark (Huguenin FrĂŠres Lelocle) and reference number 2913-3.
Stainless steel revolving black bezel for the decompression times. Nickel plated crown embossed with Omega symbol 6,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel bracelet and folding clasp ref. 7077 stamped with Omega symbol.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 500, nr. 16719940. This watch was delivered on 8-11-1960 to the official agent in U.S.A.
Matte black dial with white Arabic numerals and stylized luminous indexes. Luminous arrow head hour hand, sweep centre seconds hand with luminous dot. 46
A very rare stainless steel water-proof wristwatch, mod. Seamaster 300. Three-body case with revolving black bezel for the decompression times. Reference CK 2913, 39 mm diam. Omega red leather box with original guarantee.
Stainless steel waterproof case with screw back stamped with Omega symbol and sea horse. Nickel plated crown embossed with Omega symbol 6,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker HF hallmark (Huguenin FrĂŠres Lelocle) and reference number 2913-6.
Original 1959 Omega catalogue’s photo of Seamaster 300 and bracelet ref.7077.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 20 jewels, Omega caliber 501, nr. 16505705. This watch was manufactured in 1958 and delivered on 25-10-1960 to the official agent in Sweden.
Matte black dial with white Arabic numerals and stylized luminous indexes. Luminous small arrow head minutes hand, sweep centre seconds hand with luminous dot. 48
A very rare stainless steel water-proof wristwatch, mod. Seamaster 300. Three-body case with screw back, reference CK 2913, 39 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker HF hallmark (Huguenin FrĂŠres Lelocle) and reference number 2913-8.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 550, nr. 18217677.
1963 Omega German catalogue illustrating the details of the screw down crown and water-proof case.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 550, nr. 18217677. This watch was delivered on January 1962 to the official agent in U.S.A.
Matte black dial with white Arabic numerals and stylized luminous indexes. Luminous small arrow head minutes hand, white sweep centre seconds hand. 50
A very rare stainless steel water-proof wristwatch, mod. Seamaster 300. Three-body case with black revolving bezel for the decompression times. Reference CK 14755, 39 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker HF hallmark (Huguenin FrĂŠres Lelocle) and reference number 1475562.
Stainless steel circular case with downturned lugs and stainless steel bracelet with the last link stamped with number 506.
Stainless steel folding clasp ref. 7912 stamped with Omega symbol.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 24 jewels, Omega caliber 552, nr. 19359512. This watch was delivered on 31-1-1963 to the official agent in Sweden.
Matte black dial with white Arabic numerals and stylized luminous indexes. Luminous small arrow head minutes hand, sweep centre seconds hand with luminous dot. 52
A very rare stainless steel water-proof wristwatch, mod. Seamaster 300. Three-body case with with black revolving bezel for the decompression times. Reference ST 165.014, 39 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker HF hallmark(Huguenin Fréres Lelocle) and reference number 165.01464.
Matte black dial with white Arabic 3, 6, 9 and luminous Arabic 12. Luminous “Baton” hands and indexes, white sweep centre seconds hand.
Nickel plated crown embossed with Omega symbol.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 552, nr. 22987828. This watch was delivered on 6-1-1966 to the official agent in the U.K.
Matte black dial with white Arabic 3, 6, 9 and luminous 12. Luminous “Baton” hands and indexes, white sweep centre seconds hand.
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A very rare stainless steel water-proof military wristwatch, mod. Seamaster 300. Outside case back with British Military engravings reference ST 165.024, 40 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker CB hallmark (La Centrale, Bienne ) and reference number 165.024.
Stainless steel screw back with military engravings, nickel plated screw down crown embossed with Omega symbol.
Black revolving bezel for the decompression times. Stainless steel “Lyre” lugs with fixed bars.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 24 jewels, Omega caliber 552, nr. 24719484. This watch was delivered on 27-4-1967 to the official agent in the U.K.
Black matte military dial with stylized luminous indexes, white Arabic numerals and encircled “T”. Luminous “Broad sword” hands, white seconds hand. 56
A very rare stainless steel water-proof wristwatch, mod. Seamaster 300, reference CK 165.024, 40 mm diam. Omega box with original tag printed on the reference and the movement number 26286755, original italian guarantee.
Stainless steel bracelet stamped with number 516.
This watch has never been opened, the screw back is still sealed.
Stainless steel bracelet and folding clasp ref. 1039 stamped with Omega symbol.
Stainless steel tonneau-shaped water resistant-type case with screw back stamped with sea horse and Omega symbol. This watch was delivered on 28-2-1968 to the official agent in Italy.
Black matte dial with stylized luminous indexes and white Arabic numerals. Luminous “Broad sword� hands, sweep centre seconds.
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An interesting stainless steel diving wristwatch with date, mod. Seamaster 600 professional. Waterproof case with left-handed winding crown, bidirectional notched bezel with locking system controlled by the red push-button. Reference ST 166.077, 55 mm wide & 45 mm overall lenght.
Stainless steel monocoque case ( 1967 patent nr. 480.680) with screwed crown protected by a locking nut, bidirectional bezel for the decompression times, mineral monolitic glass and metal screw on locking ring.
Stainless steel case stamped with Omega symbol, case maker S.F. hallmark (Schmitz Freres. SA) and reference number 166.077.
Urethane band with stainless steel buckle stamped with Omega symbol.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, Omega caliber 1002, nr. 31252306, this watch was ?
Dark blue dial with luminous hours markings, white hour hand and orange “Sword” minute hand , window for the date at 3 o’ clock, sweep centre seconds. 60
A very rare stainless steel diving wristwatch with date, mod. Seamaster 600 professional. Waterproof case with left-handed winding crown, bidirectional notched bezel with locking system controlled by the red push-button. Reference ST 166.077, 55 mm wide & 45 mm overall lenght.
Stainless steel monocoque case with special matte surface finishing for military use. This watch was manufactured in circa ’70s.
Stainless steel monocoque case ( 1967 patent nr. 480.680) with screwed crown protected by a locking nut, bidirectional bezel for the decompression times, mineral monolitic glass and metal screw on locking ring.
Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp embossed with Omega symbol and numbered 1000/0.
Bezel locking system controlled by the red push button.
Dark blue dial with luminous hours markings, white hour hand and orange “Sword” minute hand , window for the date at 3 o’ clock, sweep centre seconds. 62
An interesting stainless steel diving wristwatch with date, mod. Seamaster 1000 Professional. Waterproof case with rotating bezel for the decompression times. Reference 166.0093, 43 mm wide & 55 mm overall lenght.
Stainless steel monocoque case with screwed crown protected by guards, rotating bezel for the decompression times, Omega stainless steel mesh bracelet and clasp numbered 1266/237.
Stainless steel monocoque case with horizontal groove pattern designed to reduce the contact area with human skin, stainless steel mesh type bracelet.
Stainless steel monocoque case stamped with Omega symbol, reference number 166.093 and case maker symbol (Piquerez SA Bassecourt ).
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 23 jewels, Omega caliber 1012, nr. 37836981, this watch was manufactured on 26-1-1976 and delivered in France.
Dark blue dial with luminous hours markings, white hour hand and orange “Sword” minute hand , window for the date at 3 o’ clock, sweep centre seconds. 64
An interesting stainless steel diving wristwatch with date, mod. Seamaster. Waterproof case with bidirectional revolving bezel for the decompression times. Reference 166.0251, 38,5 mm wide & 40 mm overall lenght . Original brown Omega box and price tag.
Stainless steel tonneau-shaped water resistant-type case with screw back embossed with sea horse and Omega symbol.
Stainless steel screw back, printed Omega tag with reference number and movement serial number.
Black bidirectional revolving bezel, screw down crown 6,2 mm diam.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 23 jewels, Omega caliber 1012, nr. 41510956, this watch was manufactured in 1979 and delivered 30-1-1984 to official agent in Germany.
Matte black dial with luminous hours markings, white hour hand and orange “Sword” minute hand , window for the date at 3 o’ clock, sweep centre seconds. 66
A rare stainless steel chronograph diving wristwatch with date, mod. Seamaster Automatic 120, stainless steel case with blue single direction revolving bezel for the decompression times. Reference 176.004, 44 mm wide & 52 mm overall lenght .
Stainless steel tonneau-shaped case with screw back, screw down crown embossed with Omega symbol, mm 6,5 diam. Two chronograph push buttons 5 mm diam.
Stainless steel case stamped with Omega symbol, reference number 176.004 and case maker symbol (Piquerez SA Bassecourt ).
2 hours chronograph register at 6 o’clock, seconds and 24 hours indicator at 9 o’clock, central minute counter. Omega stainless steel mesh bracelet, clasp numbered 1380/237 and circled “37”.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 22 jewels, Omega caliber 1040, nr. 36259010, this watch was manufactured ? and delivered ?
Dark blue dial with luminous hours markings, luminous hands, chronograph central minute hand with big orange arrow pointer, outer scale calibrated for 60 units, window for the date at 3 o’ clock. 68
A very interesting stainless steel chronograph wristwatch, mod. Seamaster. Tonneau-shaped case with special surface coating. Omega stainless steel “milanese� bracelet and clasp numbered 1266/237. Reference 145.023, 44,5 mm wide & 51 mm overall lenght .
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, reference number 145.023 and case maker symbol (Piquerez SA Bassecourt ).
Dark grey dial with three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers.
Ultra-sturdy scratch-resistant case coated with black hardened steel cap obtained by PVD and bombarded with tungsten (1200 Vickers)
Copper-finished movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 861, nr. 2574012, this watch was manufactured ? and delivered ?
Dark grey dial, white outer track with 1/5 seconds division, white tachymetre scale, luminous hands and hour markings.
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A rare stainless steel alarm wristwatch with date, mod. Seamaster Memomatic. Original Omega box with italian guarantee and instructions booklet. Reference 166. 072, 40 mm wide & 43 mm overall lenght .
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, reference number 166.072 and case maker symbol (Piquerez SA, Bassecourt ).
Stainless steel bracelet ref. 166-1, printed tag with reference and movement numbers.
Seamaster Memomatic with italian instructions booklet, the time setting is adjusted by crown at 4 o’ clock. The alarm can be set by pulling the button at 2 o’ clock. Date setting by pin-set at 3 o’ clock.
Copper-finished self-winding movement, 22 jewels, Omega caliber 980, nr. 30014280, this watch was manufactured ? and delivered ?
Dark grey dial with luminous hour markings, luminous hands, orange “Flèche” seconds hand, window for the date at 3 o’ clock.
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A very unusual and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date mod. Seamaster. Trapezoidal case with screw back. Reference 146.011, 36,5 mm diam.
Nickel plated signed crown located at 12 o’clock is for winding, setting time and date. The pushers located at 11 and 1 o’clock are for startstop and reset the chronograph function, the crown for rotating the inner bezel at 6 o’ clock.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, reference number 146.011 and case maker symbol (Piquerez SA Bassecourt ).
1972 Omega Swiss catalogue illustrated with Seamaster Chronograph.
Copper-finished movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 930, nr. 29149909, this watch was manufactured ? and delivered ?
Silvered dial with applied numerals, luminous hands, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, blue, red and black subsidiary dial indicating 30 minutes register, rotating inner bezel calibrated for 60 units. Window for the date at 3 o’ clock. 74
A very rare interesting titanium chronograph moon phase wristwatch, limited edition in 400 examples. Refererence TI 345.0810. Dimensions 43 mm wide & 45 mm overall lenght.
Titanium snap back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker Fernando Fontana symbol and reference number 345.0810.
Titanium tonneau-shaped case, titanium bezel engraved with tachymetre scale. Correctors to regulate days and moon phase.
Titanium bracelet and folding clasp numbered with reference 1410/401.
Copper finished movement, 17 jewels Omega caliber 866, nr. 29132760, this watch was manufactured in ? and delivered on?
Black matte dial with stainless steel applied baton indexes, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers, stainless steel “Baton� hands. Days and moon phase indicator at 12 o’clock. 76
A very interesting stainless steel quartz chronograph wristwatch, mod. Seamaster Chrono-Quartz. This model was launched in 1976 at the Montreal Olympic Games, the first “hybrid” watch with both analogue display for the time functions and LCD display for the chronograph functions. Reference ST 396.0839, 50,5 mm wide & 50,5 mm overall lenght.
Rectangular stainless steel case, original Omega tag printed with reference number and movement number. Case back embossed with Seamaster symbol and Montreal Olympic Games logo.
Rectangular back cover closing by four screws, inside stamped with Omega symbol, reference number 396.0839.
Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasps stamped with the reference number 1277/212 ad Omega symbol.
Quartz electronic multifunction movement, Omega caliber 1611 “Albatros” nr. 40102124. This watch was manufactured in 1976 and delivered on 5-4-1977 to the Official Agent in Italy
Black dial with analogue and digital display, white indexes and hands.
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80
RAILMASTER
This is perhaps the least famous of the entire range of sports watches made by Omega, however, apart from being of particular interest for collectors, it is equally important thanks to the technical developments throughout its history. It was also born in 1957, just fifty years ago, based on specific requests that were not specifically those of divers, nor of those sectors who needed a chronograph to measure the duration of given events, such as pilots or racing drivers, doctors or production managers in industrial factories. The Railmaster was created specifically for those who are forced to work in particular conditions, for instance the constant presence of strong magnetic fields, situations in which the watch is subject to great stress, invisible shocks, absolutely imperceptible for the person wearing the watch but sufficient to cause malfunctioning or even
stoppage of the movement. To have a watch that stopped or was imprecise was certainly not amusing for anyone who had to carry out operations at a given time, or work in synchronisation with others. The complexity of the organisation of the “social time”, for example in communications or railway transport, had been recognised since the mid-nineteenth century and a reliable watch was an essential instrument for the travelling personnel and for the offices of the various international railway companies. Thus, at the end of the century, certain rail transport companies adopted a regulation that established the quality standards of the watches to be supplied to their staff, standards that foresaw a margin of precision of less than 30 seconds in a week: in practice, the performance of a chronometer and of some models, to avoid the risk of tampering were to a certain extent ‘armoured’, which means that it was possible to wind them, but not to set the hands without a special tool. The Omega entered the “Railway Watch” sector in 1895 in China, when the local railway company chose the Bienne models for some lines; from then on the official commissions proliferated. After the Chinese railways, the Serbian, Ethopian, Canadian, Belgian, 82
Argentinean, Norwegian, Polish, Rhodesian, Italian, Turkish, South African, Australian and Finnish railways and many more followed suit. Yet as industrialisation progressed and the use of electricity increased, not only in the railway sector, but also in the factory power supplies, and the consequent increase in the number of workshops and control rooms packed with electric and electromagnetic equipment – later to become electronic – the need for a watch that was particularly resistant to magnetic fields became greater. Omega was certainly not going to be found lacking. When the armed forces were demobbed in August 1945, at the end of the Second World War, Switzerland prepared to recommence – and rapidly, given the enormous number of orders on the books – its exports of timepieces. That year for example, Omega, who could count on 860 employees, ordered machinery to the value of 450,000 Swiss francs, in order to bring the production rate to 300,000 watches per year. Eleven years later the factory in Bienne was expanded and it was also decided to expand the Geneva factory and the L’Orient plant in Lemania, a company that had entered the SSIH consortium in 1932.
However, it was in 1957 (the year that preceded a period of recession during which the production of pocket watches would be definitively abandoned) that the three most famous sports models of the Maison were launched and while the sea was the kingdom of the Seamaster and the sky was the realm of the Speedmaster, the Railmaster would excel on land. The company had already created wristwatches with protection against the effects of magnetism: in 1924 it had produced a chronograph fitted with the calibre 18 Chro P and in 1929, another chronograph fitted with the calibre 39 Chro, but the Railmaster, thus named to keep the historical tradition with the railway watches, was infinitely more advanced. With its Staybrite steel case, very similar to those of its two ‘brothers’ and water resistant to 60 metres, it had a smooth crystal and the dial was matte black like the Seamaster 300, with the same hands and luminescent numerals and hour markers. The bracelet was also identical, while the movement was different, it adopted a special protection system. In fact the calibre 284 (also with the central second hand) was covered by a second case in soft iron, also known as Mumétal, and surrounded by a crown in the same metal; what is more, the dial was about 1 millimetre thick, more than double that of a standard dial. With this screening, which acted as
a Faraday cage deflecting the magnetic flows so that they could not penetrate the interior of the movement, the Railmaster could withstand magnetic fields up to an intensity of about 900-1.000 gauss, against the 60 gauss of an unprotected model. The problem of magnetism was so strongly felt in certain sectors that other prestige brands joined the fray and the Railmaster was forced to compete with other models, some ultratechnical, others less so, such as the Milgauss by Rolex, the Antimagnetic from Patek Philippe, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Ingenieur by IWC. Modern techniques and the use of antimagnetic metal alloys made watches with this specialisation largely superfluous and the Railmaster was put aside, to rise again in 2003 with the launch of a new model that took place, with many celebrity guests, on the Orient Express. Today the Railmaster is available in a wider range of steel models: an automatic chronograph with chronometer certificate in two different sizes and one with a co-axial movement and a chronometer certificate, a giant model, the largest wristwatch ever created by Omega: case 49.2mm in diameter and chronometer movement calibre 2201, 16 line manual winding (37.2mm), initially designed for a pocket watch, just like the first railway watches. 84
A very rare stainless steel water-proof anti-magnetic wristwatch, mod. Railmaster. Stainless steel tonneau-shaped case with downturned lugs and screw back. Reference 2914-2, 38 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker hallmark HF (Huguenin Fréres Lelocle) and the reference number 2914-2.
Stainless steel water-proof case, lead “O” gasket, case protection in “numetal” with magnetic resistance up to 900 Gauss and screw back. Nickel plated crown embossed with Omega symbol, 6,5 mm diam.
1963 Omega German catalogue illustrating the details of the antimagnetic “Railmaster” case.
Copper-finished lever movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 284, nr. 15569031. This watch was manufactured in ? and delivered on?
Black matte dial with white Arabic numerals and stylized luminous indexes. Luminous arrow head hour hand, sweep centre seconds.
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A very rare stainless steel water-proof anti-magnetic wristwatch, mod. Railmaster. Stainless steel tonneau-shaped case with downturned lugs and screw back. Reference 2914-4, 38 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker hallmark HF (Huguenin Fréres Lelocle) and the reference number 2914-4.
Stainless steel water-proof case, lead “O” gasket, case protection in “numetal” with magnetic resistance up to 900 Gauss and screw back. Nickel plated crown embossed with Omega symbol, 6,5 mm diam.
Black matte dial with white Arabic numerals and stylized luminous indexes. Luminous arrow head hour hand, sweep centre seconds.
Copper-finished lever movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 284, nr. 155577047. This watch was delivered on 20-3-1958 to official agent in U.S.A.
Black matte dial with anti magnetic protection, one millimetre thickness.
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A very rare stainless steel water-proof anti-magnetic wristwatch, mod. Railmaster. Stainless steel tonneau-shaped case with downturned lugs and screw back. Reference 2914-6, 38 mm diam. Original Omega red leather box .
Stainless steel tonneau shaped case, screw back stamped with Railmaster word, Seahorse logo and Omega symbol.
Stainless steel water-proof case, lead “O” gasket, case protection in “numetal” with magnetic resistance up to 900 Gauss and screw back stamped with reference number 2914-6. Nickel plated crown embossed with Omega symbol, 6,5 mm diam.
1961 Omega German catalogue with the Railmaster model ref. 2914.
Copper-finished lever movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 286, nr. 20158102. This watch was manufactured in 1957 and delivered on 2210-1963 to official agent in Australia.
Black matte dial with white Arabic numerals and stylized luminous indexes. Luminous arrow head hour hand, white sweep centre seconds hand. 90
A very interesting oversized stainless steel chronometer wristwatch mod. Railmaster-Aqua Terra. Stainless steel three-body case with “Lyre” lugs and crystal back. Reference PIC 2806.52.37, 50 mm diam.
Stainless steel case with “Lyre”lugs and glazed back revealing the movement.
Stainless steel three-body case, nickel-plated winding crown embossed with Omega symbol. 7mm diam.
Brown alligator bracelet with Omega folding clasp numbered 94521813.
Nickel-finished co-axial chronometer movement, 17 jewels, nr. 80932412, Omega caliber 2201. This watch was manufactured in 2004 and delivered to official agent in U.S.A.
Matte black dial with luminous Arabic numerals and stylized luminous indexes. Luminous small arrow head minutes hand, subsidiary seconds. 92
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SPEEDMASTER
It had mastered the skies even before it made those numerous trips into space that would lead to the landing on the moon. In fact, the forerunners of the Speedmaster were the various models designed for flight. For example, the chronographs (one was a wristwatch) presented after the Gordon Bennet Cup and advertised as “Pour aviateur”; or the 1917 supply to the Royal Air Force, or the onboard models and wristwatches that, in 1933, equipped the twentyfour seaplanes used by the Italian Italo Balbo for the Roma-New York-Roma transatlantic flight; the subsequent supply to the Italian Air Force and later the equipping of Amelia Earhart, the first woman to make a sole flight across the Atlantic. It would be possible to continue the list, but it is necessary to make a halt in 1938, when the Maison of Bienne presented two watches, with a rotating bezel for calculating times, specifically designed for pilots. The last great leap forward, the fundamental hurdle, takes us to 1957: in this year the Speedmaster, the most famous chronograph of all times was born. Equipped with the calibre 321 movement, directly derived from the 27 CHRO C12, it was a manual wind watch, with steel case and bezel (first in engraved steel and later black with screen printed numerals), it was available in 4 versions: with the tachometric, telemetric, pulsometric or decimal scale (the latter for industrial use). The rounded-barrel case had a steel bracelet, massive lugs, pump pushers and, thanks to
a lead O ring on the back, it was water resistant to 60 metres. At this point the Omega range was complete, with a series of elegant models and chronometers and a range of highly technological sports watches, but the consecration of their worth would come some years later, when the American Congress, astounded by the space adventures of the Soviet Union gave rise to the Apollo programme, the evolution of the Mercury project which, in 1962, saw the outer-space baptism of the Speedmaster; however, it was on the wrist of Walter Shirra, who had bought it personally. In the same year, the NASA decided to begin the operation “watches for astronauts” and, incognito Houston purchased ten different brands in order to subject them to stringent testing. In 1964 there were still six manufacturers in the race, including Hamilton, Longines, Omega and Rolex and on March 1st of the following year, when all the tests were completed, the American space agency announced: Omega has passed all the tests with full marks and has been chosen for the space missions. The first flight in this role was the voyage of the Gemini III capsule in March and the first “space walk” for the watch was that of Edward White, which took place in June of the same year. However the high point would occur four years later: on June 11th 1969 at 2 hours 56 minutes and 20 seconds Greenwich Mean Time, Neil 96
Armstrong set foot on the moon’s surface. However, he was not wearing a watch, he had left it on the module because the onboard counter had stopped, so contrary to popular belief, the first Speedmaster to land on the moon was on the wrist of Buzz Aldrin, the second man to descend onto the surface of our celestial satellite. Since then, in spite of a second and a third test of the
various brands, in 1972 and 1978, it was always the Omega Speedmaster that marked the time on the wrists of the American astronauts on the Shuttle, of the Russian astronauts of the Apollo-Soyouz programme and of the European participants on the Columbia shuttle. Forty years have passed since its debut in space and since then the Speedmaster has undergone a continuous evolution, considerably extending its range, with numerous special editions and even versions with precious stones. Born with the matte black dial and the luminous Dauphine hands, with the ‘broad arrow’ hour hand, it would later exhibit stick or ‘alpha’ hands, while the central chronographic hand, generally straight, had a rounded lozenge tip, or ended in a small disc. The case, initially symmetrical and 39mm in diameter became larger (42mm), asymmetrical and with the characteristic facetted curve of the 1963 model, the year in which the bezel would also be enlarged, but later the case would also repeatedly change its shape. In 1966 the word “Professional” appeared on the dial
and in 1968 the movement was changed to a calibre 861, with the navette levers instead of the column wheels and 21,600 time zones. A year later the first solid gold model appeared and on the steel Mark II model the water resistance was taken to 120 metres. In 1971 the first automatic Speedmaster was born: it was the Mark III with calibre 1040, while the calibre 1041 would be launched in 1973, the first massproduced chronograph model with a chronometer certificate. In 1973 it was the turn of the Speedsonic, electronic and with diapason resonator, while the Speedmaster Professional with digital quartz movement would appear only four years later: a type of movement that would reach its peak with the Professional X-33 version, known as the ‘Mars Watch’, characterised by its many functions. Amongst the numerous special series the ‘Speedmaster Missions’ box is worthy of mention: in a limited edition of only 40 pieces, it
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gathered 22 watches with dials commemorating every NASA mission from 1965 to 1973, plus a calibre 861 and a replica of the historical 1957 model. Today the Speedmaster range includes various special series: the latest dates from 2006 in commemoration of the 35th anniversary of the Apollo 15 mission, a Professional model, with 42mm diameter case and 1861 calibre, manual wind movement in an edition limited to 1,971 examples. Other versions have never flown in space but travel at speed all the same, like those dedicated to Michael Schumacher, amongst which we must recall the latest model, the acme of the range: a rattrapante chronograph with chronometer certificate, fitted with the calibre 3612 and a co-axial escapement.
A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster, the first model of the entire Speedmaster family. Stainless steel bezel with engraved tachymetric scale base 1000. Reference CK 2915-1, 38,5 mm diam. Original Omega red leather box.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Speedmaster word. The original owner, Engineer Giovanni Pezzi from Bologna, after a measurement with a Geiger counter asked to Omega to change the dial without tritium on indexes and hands.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker hallmark HF (Huguenin Fréres Lelocle) and the reference number 2915-1.
Stainless steel bracelet ref. 7077 and the folding clasp stamped with Omega symbol.
Copper finished chronograph movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 321, nr. 15499169. This watch was manufactured in 1957 and delivered on 30-9-1957 to official agent in Italy.
Matte black dial with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous arrow head hour hand, outer white track with 1/5 seconds division, centre seconds hands with luminous dot. 100
A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster, stainless steel bezel with engraved tachymetric scale base 1000. Reference CK 2915-2 38,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol and reference number 2915-2.
Metal anti-magnetic and dust cover, winding crown, 6 mm diam. and two chronograph push button 4x3 mm.
Stainless steel bezel with engraved tachymetric scale base 1000. Nickel-plated winding crown embossed with Omega symbol.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 321, nr.15997616. This watch was manufactured in ? and delivered on ?
Matte black dial with luminous “index� hour markers and luminous arrow head hour hand, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 102
A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster, stainless steel bezel with engraved tachymetric scale base 1000, this model was delivered to FAP (Fuerza Aerea del Perù). Reference CK 2915-2 ,38,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol and reference number 2915-2.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Seahorse, Omega symbol and Speedmaster word. Winding crown, 6 mm diam. and two chronograph push button 4x3 mm.
Stainless steel bracelet ref. 7077 and the folding clasp stamped with Omega symbol and manufacturing date, first quarter of 1960.
Copper finished chronograph movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 321, nr. 16648701. This watch was delivered on 27-1-1959 to official agent in Perù.
Matte black dial with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous arrow head hour hand, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 104
A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster, stainless steel bezel with engraved tachymetric scale base 1000. Reference CK 2915-2, 38,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol and reference number 2915-2.
Metal anti-magnetic and dust cover, nickel-plated winding crown, 6 mm diam. and two chronograph push button 4x3 mm.
Original 1958 Omega instructions booklet for the first Speedmaster model.
Copper finished chronograph movement, 17 jewels, Omega caliber 321, nr. 16648528. This watch was manufactured in 1957 and delivered on 21-11-1958 to the official agent in Canada.
Matte black dial with luminous “index� hour markers and luminous arrow head hour hand, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 106
A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster, stainless steel bezel with black alluminium insert and tachymetric scale base 1000. Reference CK 2998-1, 38,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol and reference number 2998-1.
Stainless steel bezel with black alluminium insert and tachymetric scale base 1000.
Nickel- plated winding crown, 7 mm diam. and two chronograph push button 4x3 mm.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 321, nr. 15997104. This watch was manufactured in ? and delivered on ?
Matte black dial with luminous “index� hour markers and luminous arrow head hour hand, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 108
A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster, stainless steel bezel with black alluminium insert and tachymetric scale base 1000. Reference CK 2998-2, 38,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol and reference number 2998-2.
Close up of the dial with feet, stamped with Singer symbol.
Matte “chocolate” dial with steel Omega logo applied, luminous “index” hour markers.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 321, nr. 17301492. This watch delivered on 25-3-1960 to official agent in Messico.
Matte “chocolate” dial with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous “Alpha” hands, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, centre seconds hand with luminous dot, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 110
A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster, stainless steel bezel with black alluminium insert and tachymetric scale base 1000. Reference CK 2998-1, 38,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol and reference number 2998-1.
Stainless steel bezel with black alluminium insert and tachymetric scale base 1000.
Nickel- plated winding crown, 7 mm diam. and two chronograph push button 4x2,5mm.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 321, nr. 17761043. This watch manufactured in ? and delivered on ?
Matte black dial with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous “Alpha” hands, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, centre seconds hand with luminous dot, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 112
A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster, stainless steel bezel with black alluminium insert and tachymetric scale base 1000. Original Omega box with guarantee, sticker price. Reference CK 2998-1 38,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol and reference number 2998-1.
Original Omega guarantee, sticker price and receipt with U.S. dollar charge.
Stainless steel bracelet, ref. 7077, folding clasp stamped with Omega symbol and manufacturing date, 3° quarter of 1959.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 321, nr. 17301403. This watch manufactured in ? and delivered on ?
Matte black dial with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous “Alpha” hands, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, white centre seconds, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 114
A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster, stainless steel bezel with black alluminium insert and decimal scale to calculate hundredths of a minute . Original Omega box and instructions booklet. Reference ST 105.003, 39, mm diam.
Stainless steel tonneau-shaped case with screw back engraved with Seahorse and Omega symbol. Nickel-plated revolving crown 7 mm diam., chronograph push buttons 4,5x3,5 mm, stainless steel bracelet ref. 1501.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker hallmark HF (Huguenin Fréres Lelocle), the reference number ST 105.003 and manufacturing year ’64.
Instructions booklet with details of tachymetre and decimal bezels.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 321, nr. 22088882. This watch manufactured in ? and delivered on ?
Matte black dial with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous “Baton” hands, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, white centre seconds, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 116
A rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster Professional, stainless steel bezel with black alluminium insert and tachymetre scale base 500. Original Omega instructions booklet. Reference ST 105.012, 39,7 mm diam.
Stainless steel tonneau-shaped asymmetric case with “Lyre” lugs, screw back engraved with Seahorse and Omega symbol. Stainless steel bracelet, ref. 1506.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker hallmark HF (Huguenin Fréres Lelocle), the reference number ST 105.012 and manufacturing year ’65.
Stainless steel bezel with black aluminium insert and tachymetre scale base 500. Nickel-plated revolving crown 7 mm diam., chronograph push buttons 5x2,7 mm.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 321, nr. 24533186. This watch was delivered on 2-3-1967 to official agent in Australia.
Matte black dial bearing for the first time the words “Speedmaster Professional”, with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous “Baton” hands, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, white centre seconds, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 118
A rare 18 K gold water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster Professional. Limited and numbered edition of 1014 examples to commemorate the landing on the moon in 1969 with Apollo XI . Reference BA 145.022, 39,5 mm diam.
18 K gold screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker hallmark, big Helvetia hallmark, measure of carat and gold fineness. Reference number 145.022 and manufacturing year ’69.
18 K gold tonneau-shaped asymmetric case with “Lyre� lugs, gold plated anti-magnetic dust cover. Nickel-plated revolving crown 7 mm diam., chronograph push buttons 5x3,5 mm.
18 K gold bezel with burgundy aluminium insert and tachymetre scale base 500.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 861, nr. 24533186. This watch was manufactured in 1969 and delivered on 5-2-1970 to official agent in Singapore.
Solid gold outer track with 1/5 seconds division, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers.
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A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster Professional, stainless steel bezel with black alluminium insert and tachymetre scale base 500. Screw back engraved with “The First Watch Worn On The Moon” Reference ST 145.022, 39,7 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker hallmark HF (Huguenin Fréres Lelocle), the reference number 145.022 and manufacturing year ’69.
Stainless steel bracelet , ref. 1171 with folding clasp stamped with Omega symbol and circled nr.“12”
Dark grey dial with orange hour markers, outer burgundy ring, with white 1/5 seconds division, white “Baton” hands. “T Swiss Made T” words at the bottom of the dial.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 861, nr. 24533186. This watch was manufactured in ? and delivered on?.
Matte dark grey dial, Omega logo enamelled in orange, with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous “Baton” hands, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, orange seconds hand, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 122
A rare 18 K gold water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Flightmaster. Limited edition of 200 examples. Reference BA 345.801, dimensions. 42 mm wide & 52 mm overall lenght.
18 K gold screw back stamped with Omega symbol, Swiss brevet nr 487449, big Helvetia hallmark, measure of carat and gold fineness. Reference number 345.801, 145.013 and case maker symbol (Piquerez SA Bassecourt ).
18 K gold screw back case engraved with Omega symbol, Flymaster word and airplane similar to DC-8. Two crowns at 10 o’clock to adjust the GMT and 8.30 to operate the internal bezel graduated for sixty minutes.
18 K gold bracelet with folding clasp embossed with Omega symbol and stamped with gold fineness and maker’s hallmark.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 861, nr. 31631054. This watch was manufactured in ? and delivered on?
Solid gold dial, gold hour markers with onyx insert and black “Baton” hands, blue luminous GMT hand, subdial at 9 o’clock with 24-hours function, subdial at 6’ o clock with 12 hours register and subdial at 3 o’clock with 30 minutes register. 124
A rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch with date and moonphase, mod. Speedmaster Professional. Limited edition of 1300 examples. Original Omega instructions booklet and Italian guarantee. Reference ST 345.0809, 39,7 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker hallmark CRS (Charles Reneè Spielmann) and reference number 345.0809.
Stainless steel tonneau-shaped asymmetric case with “Lyre” lugs, screw back embossed with Seahorse and Omega symbol. Stainless steel bracelet with the last link stamped with number 808 .
Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp embossed with Omega symbol and stamped with reference number 1450 and circled nr. “32”.
Copper finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 866, nr. 47132917. This watch was manufactured in ? and delivered on?
Matte black dial, with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous “Baton” hands, white centre seconds, moonphase and days indicator at 12 o’clock, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 126
A rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph automatic wristwatch with day-date, mod. Speedmaster Professional Automatic. Stainless steel tonneau-shaped asymmetric case with “Lyre” lugs, screw back embossed with Seahorse and Omega symbol. Reference ST 376.0822 , 39,7 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker hallmark CRS (Charles Reneè Spielmann) , reference number 376.0822.
Stainless steel tonneau-shaped asymmetric case with “Lyre” lugs, nickel plated winding crown embossed with Omega symbol, 6mm diam. and two chronograph push button 5x4mm.
Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp embossed with Omega symbol and stamped with reference number 1450 and circled nr.”32”.
Copper finished chronograph automatic movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 1045, nr. 48233012. This watch was manufactured in ? and delivered on?
Matte black dial, with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous white “Baton” hands, centre minutes recorder, subdial at 12 o’clock with 24 hours function, subdial at 9 o’ clock indicating constant seconds and subdial at 6 o’clock with 12 hours function. Window at 3 o’ clock for day of the week and date. 128
A rare 18 K white gold water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster Professional Chronometer. Limited and numbered edition of 500 examples to commemorate the 25th of the first moonlanding. Reference BC 148.0062, 39,5 mm diam.
Left side of the 18 K white gold case engraved with “Apollo XI 19691994” .
Asymmetric 18 K white gold case with “Lyre” lugs, white gold plated winding crown, 6,5 diam. and two chronograph push buttons 5x4mm.
18 K white gold bracelet with folding clasp stamped with the reference number 1499/842.
Rhodium finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 864, nr. 48311524. This watch was manufactured in 1994 and delivered in 1994 to official agent in Italy.
Silvered dial, Omega logo enamelled in black, with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous white gold “Baton” hands, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 130
A rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph wristwatch, mod. Speedmaster Professional. Limited and numbered edition of 500 examples, for the italian market, to commemorate the first Speedmaster model. Reference ST 345.0818 , bracelet ref. 1499/842, 39,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel asymmetric case stamped with serial number 48370176.
Stainless steel screw back with sapphire. Nickel-plated winding crown, 6,5 diam. and two chronograph push buttons 5x4mm.
White dial with luminous hour markers, black luminous “Baton” hands.
Rhodium finished chronograph movement , 17 jewels, Omega caliber 1861, nr. 48370176. This watch was manufactured in 1997 and delivered in 1997 to official agent in Italy.
White dial, Omega logo enamelled in black, with luminous “index” hour markers and luminous black “Baton” hands, outer track with 1/5 seconds division, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. 132
A rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph automatic wristwatch with date, mod. Speedmaster Michael Schumacher 2003. Limited and numbered edition of 6000 examples, to commemorate the 6th Formula 1 World title. Reference ST 178.0031, 39,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel asymmetric case with screw back engraved with Seamaster symbol and the words enamelled in red “Michael Shumacher The Legend” .
Stainless steel screw back stamped with Omega symbol, case maker hallmark and reference number 178.0031.
Stainless steel tonneau-shaped asymmetric case with “Lyre” lugs, anti-magnetic dust cover. Nickel-plated revolving crown 6,5 mm diam., chronograph push buttons 5x4 mm.
Nickel finished chronograph automatic movement , 33 jewels, Omega caliber 3301 A, nr. 78044309. This watch was manufactured in 2004 and delivered in 2004 to the official agent in Italy.
Customer’s request black tachymetre bezel, cream dial, black outer ring with red 1/5 seconds division, luminous applied stainless steel “index” hour markers and luminous stainless steel “Baton” hands, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. Window for the date at 6 o’ clock. 134
A very rare stainless steel water-proof chronograph automatic split second wristwatch with date, mod. Speedmaster Torino 2006. Limited and numbered edition of 26 examples for the winter Olympic Games in Turin. Reference ST 178.0016, 39,5 mm diam.
Stainless steel screw back engraved with Olympic Games symbol and serial number 17/26.
Stainless steel asymmetric case with “Lyre” lugs and stainless steel bezel with tachymetre scale base 1000. Split second chronograph push button 5x4 mm.
Split second hands decorated with five different colours Olympic rings.
Nickel finished chronograph automatic co-axial split seconds chronometer with date movement , 33 jewels, Omega caliber 3612 A4, nr. 78057302. This watch was delivered in 2006 to the official agent in Italy.
Two-tone silvered dial, outer red ring calibrated for 30 pulsations and blue track with 1/5 seconds division, blued steel hour markers and “Broad Arrow” hands, three subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours registers. Window for the date at 6 o’ clock. 136
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John Goldberger has been collecting and studying vintage watches for over twentyfive years. He spent many happy hours browsing through watch shops, fleamarkets, conventions and auctions around the world. His most recent books are Omega Watches and Longines Watches published by Damiani.
“I would like to pay a special tribute to Andrea Foffi of Rome. His knowledge of Omega watches, and his approach in assisting with the compiling of this book, greatly facilitated every aspect of its realization. I would like to thank also Mr. Marco Richon and the Omega Museum Team in Bienne for their attention and dedication with the writing of the Omega Sport Watches notes.”
John Goldberger 140
144 pages with 450 illustrations © John Goldberger
INDEX Omega Sports models Omega Seamaster Omega Railmaster Omega Speedmaster
pg 05-39 pg 41-79 pg 81-93 pg 95-137
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Printed at GraďŹ che Damiani Italy, January 2007