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■ Grow an indoor salad bar all year round ■ How to sow aubergines
VIDEO: ■ How to prevent leek moth
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It’s the start of a brand-new year, the time when many of us fire the starting gun on some exciting tender crops that need a long growing season such as peppers and seed-raised onions. In this issue you’ll find great features to help you get the very best out of these sowings, plus info on some delicious new chilli varieties. There is more news from the seed catalogues starting on page 40, where KG’s Tony Flanagan brings you the last of his roundups of the best new introductions for 2024. There are so many brilliant new varieties to try this year! For those of you who might have resolved to start growing for the first time, top organic grower Becky Searle has all the information you need to make it a sure-fire success. And for readers with limited space Martin Fish turns his attention to growing herbs – something you can do in pots on a patio or in a raised bed. We also have a simple project on page 50 which can help you to produce rich pickings from just a square metre of soil or raised bed. We are pleased to welcome online gardening sensation Huw Richards back to the pages of KG this month. Huw, who has never used chemicals, has some great advice on controlling pests organically, while starting on page 46 award-winning writer Kim Stoddart brings you some climate change inspiration to help you cope with whatever the weather throws at us now and in seasons to come.
Steve Ott, editor
Contact me at: sott@mortons.co.uk | 01507 529396 Find us at www.kitchengarden.co.uk Contact subscriptions: 01507 529529
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EXPERT ADVICE TO HELP YOU GROW GREAT FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
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18 QUESTION TIME
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52 CONNECT WITH YOUR KG SUBSCRIBERS’ CLUB
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85 NEXT MONTH
News of the great features and gifts you will find in your February issue
96 LAST WORD
Nurseryman and keen veg grower David Patch asks what makes a good gardener
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JANUARY 2024
78 Scan this, and we’ll tell you!
72
Delicious recipes featuring seasonal home-grown veg from our chef, Anna Cairns Pettigrew
Pg 92
82 GET GROWING 12 ON THE PLOT WITH THE THREE MUDKETEERS
Join the KG team as they harvest chard, make compost and care for the birds
22 HERBS UNCOVERED ✪
Martin Fish describes how to grow tasty herbs while wife Jill brings you a mouthwatering recipe
32 KNOW YOUR ONIONS ✪
Award-winning writer Ben Vanheems brings you his comprehensive growing guide to onions for show bench or kitchen
37 Q&A: HOW TO GROW POTATOES ✪
Deputy editor Emma Rawlings answers some common questions about this popular crop
40 MORE OF THE NEW FOR 2024 KG’s Tony Flanagan brings you a final roundup of the best new seed introductions
42 CHOICE CHILLIES! ✪
Gardening expert and heritage seed enthusiast Rob Smith reveals his favourite chilli varieties old and new
46 CLIMATE CHANGE INSPIRATION ✪
Author and green gardener Kim Stoddart offers easy ways to cope with climate change
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50 SQUARE ROOTS
Tony Flanagan has a simple weekend project for tasty harvests from the smallest spaces
53 A JEWEL IN THE CROWN
Garden writer Janice Hopper takes a tour of the wonderful gardens of Leith Hall in North East Scotland
59 KEEP YOUR GARDEN PEST AND WEED FREE ✪ Green gardener Huw Richards brings you his top tips for organic weed and pest control
62 WHAT IS HERITAGE VEG? ✪
Dr Anton Rosenfeld spotlights heritage veg and explains why it is so important
66 HOW TO MAKE A GOOD START ✪
Keen veg grower Becky Searle offers essential advice for new allotment gardeners
70 THE CREATURE FEATURE
This month nature watcher Jack Edmonds explores the quiet world of woodlice
72 FLAVOURSOME FRUIT ✪
In this issue nurseryman David Patch brings you top tips on growing delicious eating apples
78 IT’S THE BEE’S KNEES
We chat to Instagrammer, beekeeper and veg grower Olga Grieves
WHAT TO BUY 82 PRODUCT REVIEW – HANDY TOOLS
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86 MONEY-SAVING OFFERS
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“I am not ageing. I just need repotting.” (Author unknown)
Illustrations: Let’s Face It
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The KG team offer chat, tips and gardening gossip
3 Mudketeers
BIRDS, CHARD AND A TUMBLE Steve likes to take care of his garden birds in winter. Payback for all the mopping up of caterpillars and aphids they do throughout the garden in summer. It is very important to keep bird feeders clean to prevent nasty diseases from circulating around the flock, so it’s a good idea to choose feeders that are easy to take apart for cleaning. A good excuse to have your hands in a hot bucket of water on a cold day!
GETTING TO GRIPS WITH GRAPES
Emma is grateful she sowed some Swiss chard in late summer in the polytunnel. It is such a great winter crop, providing young leaves to eat like spinach or delicious crunchy stems for stir-fries and other dishes. What a brilliant crop to grow and hardy too! And as a bonus, if you grow the ones with colourful stems they look fantastic on the plot when there is little colour in the winter garden.
I’ve been telling everyone who will listen about my bumper crop of ‘Black Hamburg’ grapes for some time now. Not being wine drinkers, we juiced them, put them into desserts and of course ate them fresh. Friends had obviously had enough too which left us scratching our heads as to what to do with the rest. Then inspiration! Why not turn them into raisins. You can do this in a food dehydrator, or a low oven with the door ajar. First cut the grapes in half, take out the pips and lay cut face up on a tray. Heat at 60C (140F) for around 10 hours and when thoroughly dry store in airtight jars. Sweet and delicious – just the thing for adding to cereals and porridge.
It looks like Tony has been doing a bit of tumbling in the garden – and that’s before he’s even had a drink! Always willing to do a good turn, he’s been giving his rotating composter a regular twirl – well, it keeps him out of mischief. In go the vegetable peelings and some lawn cuttings and out comes some lovely, friable compost, perfect for potting up. It’s a kind of magic!
12 | www.kitchengarden.co.uk
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JUST DIGGING IT
Hi! I’m Belle and I’m here every month to share lots of fun activities for you to do at home, on your own or with your family
I am starting a new veg patch and really enjoying digging it over. The whole area was covered in a thicket of nettles and old rubbish so I decided to divide the area into nine small beds. I have used strings and pegs to mark the paths and the beds and I am gradually digging over the area, removing as much nettle root as I can. Using strings and dividing it up is a great way of starting a neglected plot as psychologically it makes it more manageable, breaking it down into smaller areas to dig. I might only do half a bed at a time, or I might do one pathway and then call it a day and do more the next day. It means I don’t get aches and pains from overdoing it.
DOWN WITH THE RHUBARB
One of the delights of summer is freshly picked rhubarb, so I’ve been tidying up the rhubarb patch, removing dead and decaying leaves and removing any weeds. After this I’ll add some home-made compost to the bed, not to keep the bed warm (rhubarb needs the cold over winter) but to add some richness to the soil as it sinks in. It’s important to keep the crowns uncovered however. Of course, if you want an earlier crop you can cover the rhubarb with a bucket to exclude light so you can ‘force’ some lovely sweet stems into production. I’m not doing this because the rhubarb crowns were only planted new last year so I want to give them about two years to establish themselves – see what they’re looking like come summer. Note that although the leaves are poisonous you can still add them to the compost bin where they will lose their toxicity as they decay.
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Soil is an important part of all plant and animal life. We need soil to grow tasty vegetables for us, feed for animals and healthy plants for our environment. Let’s make edible soil! We will learn about the different layers hidden under the soil surface and make a yummy treat to eat afterwards. YOU WILL NEED: ■ Chocolate mousse or yogurt ■ Whole Oreos and crushed Oreo biscuits ■ Cheerio cereal. Alternatively, you could use chocolate and butterscotch chips mixed together ■ Shredded coconut mixed with green food colouring ■ Gummy worms ■ Clear glasses or recycled clear jelly pots ■ Spoons ■ Optional: Sticky Post-it notes or labels. You could also try using a washable pen. WHAT TO DO: 1. We start by making the first layer, our edible soil bedrock. Place a whole Oreo biscuit in the bottom of the glass. Bedrock is a solid rock that lies under loose or softer material. It is the outermost layer of Earth’s crust. 2. The next element to add to our soil structure is the parent material – our Cheerios or chocolate chips. Add a small layer on top of your biscuit. Parent material is formed from bedrock after a long weathering process, either by natural or chemical means.
3. Now, we add the subsoil by adding a layer of our chocolate mousse. Subsoil contains rich minerals for plants and trees searching for root systems. 4. The next layer of our soil structure is the topsoil, which is full of nutrients, bacteria, fungi and life. This is the layer where we sow our seeds and grow our vegetables. To make this, add a layer of crushed Oreos to your glass. 5. Worms live in the topsoil, so add a few of your gummy worms so that they are sticking out of the crushed Oreos. 6. The final layer is our organic matter, which could include plant waste and old leaves. Sprinkle your shredded coconut on the top. 7. The last part to do before you DIG in and enjoy your work, is to label each layer. Use your labels or a washable pen. Congratulations! Grab your spoon and see what it tastes like!
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GET GROWING
This month Martin Fish brings his expertise to offer top advice on growing herbs while Jill serves up some savoury herby shortbread
Sow herb seeds in spring in small pots Chives are great for a mild onion flavour and the flowers can also be eaten
Repotting new mint roots in late winter to make new plants
Purple sage is both tasty and decorative in the garden
H
erbs have been grown for centuries for their medicinal and healing properties, not to mention their use in the kitchen to flavour food. As garden or container plants they are hugely popular and as well as their culinary use, many are also decorative. They are easy to grow and by having a selection of annual and perennial herbs in your garden, you’ll be able to pick a supply of tasty herbs throughout the year.
SOIL AND GROWING CONDITIONS
As a guide, the herbs we commonly grow in our gardens prefer a well-drained soil. Sandy or loamy soils are ideal as they tend to be free draining, whereas heavy clay bakes hard in summer and becomes waterlogged in winter, causing root rots. To help improve clay soils, work in organic matter or create raised beds. Most herbs prefer a sunny position and those such as sage, thyme, rosemary, basil, marjoram, dill and chamomile are best planted where they get sun for most of the day. Others such as mint, chives, coriander, parsley and sweet cicely are perfectly fine in dappled or partial shade, but still need good light levels to grow well.
GROWING NEW PLANTS
Garden centres and online herb specialists sell a selection of herbs from spring onwards that include annual, biennial and perennial types www.youtube.com/kitchengardenmagazine
and this is a great way to get started. However, it’s also very easy to grow your own from seed, division or cuttings. Seed companies carry a good range of herbs and if you have friends or neighbours with perennial herbs such as mint, marjoram or oregano I’m sure they’ll let you have a small clump in spring or take a few cuttings off the shrubby types such as sage, rosemary or bay. Seed sowing: most herbs can be grown from seed, but perennial and shrubby herbs can be slow to mature. Annuals that last one season are grown from seed and include dill, basil and coriander. Biennial herbs like parsley, chervil and caraway are also grown from seed. In their first year they make the leafy growth and in the second they flower and seed. Unless you want seeds, they can be treated as annuals. Sow in spring in cell trays or small pots of fine, multipurpose compost and cover with a thin layer of sieved compost. Water the compost and germinate in a cool greenhouse or windowsill. Division: several perennial herbs grow as clumps that naturally die down in winter, to regrow in spring. These include all types of mint, marjoram, chives, oregano and fennel. To get more plants, established plants can be lifted in early spring and divided into smaller sections for replanting. Cuttings: shrubby herbs such as bay, sage and rosemary can be propagated from cuttings. The traditional time to take cuttings is late summer or early autumn, but you can also take them in May-June. Select stems around 5-7.5cm (2-3in) long, trim below a leaf joint and remove the lower foliage. Insert several around
Herbs such as sage and rosemary can be taken as cuttings in late summer
the edge of a pot or individually into cell trays, water and stand on a shaded windowsill and mist occasionally or place them in a propagator with a little base heat. Pot up to grow on once a strong root system has developed. Cuttings can also be taken from new mint shoots and the small stems of thyme with great success.
GROWING AND AFTERCARE
Hardy herbs can be planted out from MarchApril onwards as the soil starts to warm up. Tender annual plants, such as basil, should never be planted out until after the danger of frost has passed in late spring. When growing in the garden, keep young plants watered until the roots have established. Although not greedy plants, a small amount of fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone will aid establishment. ➤
Keep seedling herbs moist, but not too wet
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ONIONS There’s nothing quite like your own haul of flavoursome, golden-hued or vibrant red onions. Award-winning writer Benedict Vanheems explains how to have some skin in the game
W
hen you stop to think about it, there’s one vegetable that comes up time and again as the starting point to just about every recipe. I’m talking onions of course! These pleasingly pungent bulbs are a joy to cook with and even more satisfying to grow, swelling from pencil-thick stems to fulsome bulbs within a few short months. Winter might not feel like the most obvious time to start onions but sowing them early can be a savvy strategy if you are after king-sized bulbs. So, pop on your coat and pull on your woolly hat because we’re heading outside to get sowing! 32 | www.kitchengarden.co.uk
Onions are one of the most satisfying and useful vegetables you can grow
Onion raised bed in July
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ONIONS
HOW TO START MULTISOWN ONIONS 1
STEP 1: Push sieved, multipurpose compost into medium-sized module trays to ensure a good fill. Level off then make a little depression into each module with your fingertips.
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STEP 2: Drop in five to eight seeds into each depression then lightly cover over with more of the compost. Water with a fine spray to avoid disturbing the compost.
SEED OR SET?
Many gardeners will be familiar with onion sets – the small, immature onions sold for planting in spring. Sets offer a genuinely lowfuss way to start your crop, with an almost guaranteed take rate. But seed comes with its advantages too. Starting from seed is cheaper, offers two goes at harvesting – as spring onions then mature bulbs – and the plants are less likely to bolt. It also gives the option to grow them in clusters, my favourite way of growing onions.
SOWING ONIONS
Let’s start with the earliest sowings: for giant, exhibition onions that might – just might – carry home the silverware from the local village show! Perhaps counterintuitively, the biggest onions are started from seed, not sets. Sow into modules of multipurpose compost in December or January. Set two seeds into each module then lightly cover with more compost. The seedlings are thinned to leave just one in each module later. Give sowings a good drink using a watering can fitted with a rose, allow to drain off then move trays indoors to germinate in the warm. The big challenge at this time of year is light. If you can offer supplemental lighting in the form of grow lights then your early-sown onions will grow a lot stronger and faster, upping your chances of scale-groaning bulbs. This will become less necessary towards the end of February. For plenty of medium-sized bulbs for general use delay sowing until February or the first week of March. This makes things a lot easier as light is less critical from this point on. Again, sow into modules, but this time sow a scant pinch of seeds – between about five and eight – into each cell. After germinating indoors, the hardy seedlings can be brought straight back out into either a greenhouse or cold frame to grow on before planting them out from early to mid-March. These seedlings will not need thinning out. After comparing single and multisown onions side by side, I have concluded that www.youtube.com/kitchengardenmagazine
4
STEP 3: Germinate the seeds indoors then move them back out to an unheated greenhouse or cold frame. Grow on in a bright position and maintain moist compost.
multisown onions, grown on as clusters, give the greatest number of bulbs and overall yield for any given area, though onions grown individually will tend to give larger, though fewer, bulbs.
PLANTING ONIONS
Seed-raised onions can be planted out a touch earlier than sets as they are less likely to bolt in response to chilly weather (see box on page 34). Plant them in a sunny spot into welldrained soil enriched with garden compost. Poke the seedlings out from their modules then space each seedling or cluster of seedlings about 25-30cm (10-12in) apart in both directions. With seedlings laid out and ready to plant you can now use a dibber (or your fingers!) to make the holes then simply drop the seedlings in and firm lightly. Water well to settle them into place. Help early plantings along with a cover of horticultural fleece, pinned down at the edges
STEP 4: Plant out in early to midMarch into fertile, well-drained soil, improved with garden compost. Set clusters 25-30cm (10-12in) apart. Keep watered in dry weather.
to ensure a snug fit. Once the weather has warmed up a little, towards the end of March, the covers can come off. Sets are planted much later than seedlings, from late March to early April, and preferably when a stretch of relatively mild weather is forecast. Push the sets into prepared soil, so that just the very tips are showing above the surface. Space them around 15cm (6in) apart in both directions, or a little closer in rows spaced 30cm (1ft) apart. There is a direct correlation between space and eventual size of bulb. The spacings given above are for decent, medium-sized bulbs – the sweet spot between number and size of the final bulbs. For giant-sized bulbs, leave a little more space between the individual seedlings you plant – perhaps as much as 40cm (16in). If you have the space, these exhibition onions will also benefit from the added warmth of greenhouse or polytunnel beds to maximise growth. ➤
Watering recently planted onions to encourage steady growth
www.kitchengarden.co.uk | 33
S
GREAT
BEG I
NER N
R FO
In this new series Rob Smith is delving into the everintriguing world of vegetables with a keen focus on some brand-new varieties but some lesser-known ones too 42 | www.kitchengarden.co.uk
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CHILLIES
T
his month, I’m looking at the fascinating world of chilli peppers. So, for those of you who have a set of trusty grow lights and a heated propagator tucked away, it’s time to dust them off and start thinking about sowing these fiery (or not-so-fiery) chillies. Growing chillies is an immensely rewarding pursuit. They don’t demand much space but usually yield an abundance of fruit, enough to satisfy even the most dedicated ‘chilli-head’ throughout the year. Getting started with your chilli seeds this month requires a bit of time and effort, along with a heated propagator and a grow light, which are pretty affordable nowadays. However, if you lack these tools, it’s often more dependable to start your seed-sowing in March when daylight becomes stronger, and your seedlings are less prone to stretching and becoming leggy.
Chilli seedlings started off on a warm windowsill
SOWING
When deciding when to sow your chillies, consider the heat level, or Scoville rating, of your chosen variety. The Scoville scale (SHU) is the measure of chilli heat, with higher numbers denoting hotter chillies and lower numbers indicating milder ones. Think of it this way: a jalapeño falls between 2000 and 8000, while a habanero ranks around 500,000, and a ‘Carolina Reaper’ can exceed a staggering two million Scoville units. As a general rule, hotter chillies often require a longer growing season, so they benefit from an early start in the year. When it comes to sowing chilli seeds, my preferred method is to start in modular trays and for the earliest sowings use a heated propagator set to 21C (70F) to get them off to a good start. Later sowings will germinate well in pots covered with a polythene bag on a sunny windowsill. Transplant the seedlings as they grow, eventually moving them to their own 9cm (3½in) pots when they’re large enough to handle. If you’re growing a variety that exceeds 30cm (12in) in height, there’s a simple trick to increase your plant’s fruit production – snip the tip! Trimming the growing point of your plant when it reaches about 15cm (6in) in height encourages more branches, more flowers and ultimately, more fruit. A bushier plant also stands more robustly, as it doesn’t need as much support when the chillies start to bulk up during ripening. In contrast, a tall, slender plant might bend or even snap under the weight of its burgeoning chillies. For the majority of chillies, providing them with shelter in a tunnel, greenhouse or conservatory is best, with some varieties reaching a considerable size if grown directly in the ground. That’s precisely why I prefer to grow mine in pots. This approach keeps them at a manageable size, especially the larger varieties, making the entire growing experience more enjoyable and freeing up space for other crops. www.youtube.com/kitchengardenmagazine
There are tried and tested favourites that gardeners across the nation can’t get enough of. At the top of the list, we have the everpopular jalapeño. These mild chillies are typically harvested green, but they pack just as much flavour when they turn red, offering a slightly hotter kick. Jalapeños are versatile, finding their place in salsas, stuffed and baked dishes, or adding a delightful warmth to chilli con carne. In fact, they’re arguably the world’s most renowned chilli pepper, with their thick, juicy flesh and robust flavour making them a kitchen staple. Next up is the habanero, another wellknown chilli, but this time with a fiery punch of heat. These gnarly peppers are often used as flavourings rather than being stuffed and consumed whole like jalapeños. Available in an array of different colours, habaneros are a top choice for making your own spicy hot sauces that pack a fiery kick.
Habaneros for something hotter
Jalapeños, a kitchen favourite
For those looking to add both beauty and flavour to their garden, ‘Basket of Fire’ is the one for you. These petite plants are perfect for containers and pots, offering dozens of moderately spicy chillies. With just one plant, you’ll have enough to meet your family’s chilli needs all year long, as they dry easily, making them last longer. What’s more, the plants boast greater cold tolerance than most, making them an excellent chilli for outdoor growing in sunny spaces (Scoville Heat Units: 80,000). ➤
‘Basket of Fire’
www.kitchengarden.co.uk | 43
Pest and weed free
naturally Expert gardener, YouTuber, presenter, best-selling author and ambassador for ˆ Cymru’s PestSmart, Huw Richards, explains why natural is best when it Dwr comes to keeping your garden pest and weed free
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www.kitchengarden.co.uk | 59
Growing a mix of veg, herbs and flowers together can confuse pests
P
ests, weeds and plant diseases are part and parcel of having a garden but that doesn’t make them any less frustrating. Although they are a natural part of any healthy ecosystem, they can be particularly problematic for those of us looking to grow our own food, which is why having effective pest control is so important. Many might turn to pesticides and weedkillers as a starting point but there are other just as efficient natural alternatives that you should consider first. Although effective at ridding your garden of weeds and unwanted pests, pesticides can have a negative impact on the planet, water sources and wildlife, which is why I have always opted for natural solutions instead. I’ve actually never needed to use pesticides due to the success I’ve had with other eco-friendly techniques. While there are a whole host of natural approaches to pest control (and everyone will have a different opinion!), these are my go-to methods.
and herbs alongside your vegetables. These will break up your different plants and provide habitats and food sources for beneficial insects who are not only natural pest predators, but helpful pollinators too. Herbs are particularly enticing for these predators and, at the same time, deter pests from your crops due to their strong aromatic qualities.
2. ATTRACT INSECT LIFE
Encouraging beneficial insects into your garden is a fantastic natural form of pest control, providing you with an army of pest predators who can act as biological shields to protect your plant life. Ladybirds, parasitic wasps, hoverflies and lacewings are a great
natural defence against pests like aphids and cabbage white butterflies that can ravage your crops. It’s easy to attract these garden warriors – just plant lots of flowers and let your herbs flower too – flowering leeks, broccoli, coriander and dill are firm favourites among them. Nasturtiums are also a great option and offer huge aesthetic value too. Plus, each of these are edible, bringing added benefits to your kitchen. These insects will also draw in other smaller mammals and birds that can support pest control. Working with nature and attracting as much insect life as possible will create a balanced natural ecosystem to help your garden thrive.
Encourage beneficial insects such as hoverflies into the garden to help control your pests
1. GROW A DIVERSE RANGE OF PLANTS
One of the best ways to reduce pests and diseases in your garden is through polyculture – growing a range of different crops and plants together, just like you would find in the natural world. It’s easy to fall into the trap of trying to work against nature, focusing on cultivating one type of crop, but doing so leads to problems. In the wild, thanks to natural polyculture, you’ll rarely see a disease or pest obliterate a whole area of land; instead, one crop might be affected. To replicate this in your garden, try planting nectar rich flowers 60 | www.kitchengarden.co.uk
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GET GROWING
EATING APPLES
In this new series fruit expert xpert David Patch surveys the rich and varied world of apples and picks out some of the tastiest varieties
C
ropping period, pollination group, historical significance, local provenance... there are many criteria we can use when deciding which dessert apples we want to grow. And while these are all perfectly valid, the main factor is almost always flavour – a new tree is quite an investment of both time and money, so we need to be as sure as we can be that we’ll enjoy the fruit when it eventually appears. Which presents us with a conundrum – how to choose on taste, when we will never have the opportunity to actually taste before buying?
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Grow apples in your back garden for something much more flavoursome than the supermarket can offer
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EATING APPLES
‘Crispin’
‘Epicure’
Supermarkets offer a very limited choice of fruit, and these are normally commercial varieties which wouldn’t be good choices for growing at home. So we end up staring at a long list of unfamiliar names such as ‘Irish Peach’ or ‘St Edmund’s Pippin’, and plumping for one we hope will be good. Well, don’t despair – any home-grown fruit, picked perfectly ripe and enjoyed at its peak will almost certainly trump a shop-bought apple, cold-stored and flown half way around the world before it reaches your fruit bowl. And more importantly, the wide range of apple flavours can be broken down into a few key groups, which should give you a shortlist of varieties which will appeal. (Pun intended!)
■ ‘KATY’: Another easy-to-grow favourite that
CLEAN AND CRISP
■ ‘CRISPIN’: A much underrated variety in
The following are probably the closest to the typical ‘Pink Lady’ supermarket apple. While we’re on the subject, ‘Pink Lady’ isn’t actually a single variety – the original apple sold under that name was a variety called ‘Cripp’s Pink’, but several other related apples have since been given permission to be sold under the brand name. The trees are only available for commercial orchards grown under licence – you can’t buy a tree to grow in your own garden – but there are plenty of options if you’d like to grow something similar (or I would argue, even better!). ■ ‘EPICURE’: Classic early apple, ready in late
August, but crisp and with a ‘bite’ to it which can be missing in other early season apples. Bred in 1909 by the famous Laxton Brothers, it has ‘Cox’s Orange Pippin’ as one of its parents, so expect a good ‘crunch’ and plenty of juice. Crops can be heavy but fruit small in size, so thinning out in late May is a good idea.
should be towards the top of anybody’s list of ‘must have’ apples. Bred in 1947 in Sweden (you may see it offered under its original name of ‘Katya’), you’ll get big crops of bright red fruit in September. Its parents are ‘James Grieve’ and ‘Worcester Pearmain’, so you get good levels of sweetness, but not overly so – it’s quite a mild flavour, but crisp, juicy and refreshing straight from the tree. ‘Katy’ doesn’t keep longer than a few weeks before going soft, so store in the fridge to keep them in the best condition, or else juice any excess – the soft blush-pink juice is excellent. As a bonus, the tree stays in blossom for a longer period than many others, so is an excellent pollinator of any other apples.
my humble opinion. Partly, I think, because the uniform pale yellow skin lacks the shelf appeal of bright red shiny fruit such as ‘Katy’, and partly because it could easily be seen as a Jack of all trades. The large size and balance of sweet and sharp make it extremely versatile, so it can be baked, dried, used in tarte tatin, stewed as well as eaten fresh. A strong growing tree, and generally pretty easy to get good crops from, this is definitely one to consider if you like a ‘Golden Delicious’-type apple.
SWEET VARIETIES
Next we have the varieties for the sweettoothed among you. All apples are reliant on the number of hours of sunshine they receive
‘Katy’
to develop the sugars in the fruit, so in a dull, cool summer fruit will be sharper than in a hot scorcher, but some varieties naturally have sweeter fruit. For all apples – indeed all fruit – leave to fully ripen if you want the sweetest fruit to eat straight away, or pick slightly underripe if you want to store fruit for longer (underripe fruit has more starch and less sugar, so tends to keep better). ■ ‘DISCOVERY’: Bright red fruit, the flesh can have a strawberry-pink tinge to it, very juicy and sweet – what’s not to like? Well, the short shelf life can be a problem. Even stored in the salad drawer of a fridge, ‘Discovery’ apples will only keep for a couple of weeks. But eaten warm, straight from the tree in August with the juice running down your chin – these are an absolute delight. ■ ‘IRISH PEACH’: Possibly the finest of all
early season eating apples, sweet, honeyed and with an aromatic hint of ripe peaches, this is superb to eat straight from the tree in August. Believed to have come from the orchards of the Crofton Brothers in Sligo, and introduced in England in 1819, if you want a hit of sugar in your apple, this is definitely the one to go for. The only real drawback is that it is almost exclusively tip-bearing – even continuous pruning will not persuade it to send out fruiting spurs – so it’s not one for training as a cordon or espalier. As a free-standing tree, however, it’s hard to beat. ➤
■ ‘SPARTAN’: Possibly the prettiest apple in
the orchard, with an acid yellow-green skin which develops a dark crimson-maroon flush as the fruit ripens, which can completely cover the fruit. A North American-style of apple, crisp, clean and full of juice – in fact it is highly recommended as a juicing variety. Bred in Canada in the 1920s it is exceptionally hardy, heavy cropping and easy to grow (although scab can be an issue in areas of high rainfall). Again, needs thinning to get the best sized fruit. www.youtube.com/kitchengardenmagazine
‘Discovery’
‘Irish Peach’
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Instagrammer Olga Grieves talks to KG about her love of beekeeping and the flowers, fruit and veg she likes to grow on her allotment
A curious visitor
How long have you been growing your own fruit and veg?
I’ve been growing my own fruit and vegetables for a whole decade now. In May 2013, my partner Mark suggested we apply for an allotment, and I initially responded with an eye roll, wondering why we needed one. However, I’m so grateful that he convinced me to check out the plot. We were offered the allotment just two weeks after being on the waiting list, and from that moment on we signed the lease and never looked back.
Olga’s plot in the summer
Do you grow on an allotment or in the garden, or both?
I exclusively grow everything on my allotment since I don’t have a garden. This limitation has actually fuelled my passion for experimenting and cultivating food, not only for myself but also for the local wildlife. There is so much you can grow in the smallest of spaces.
Where does your love of wildlife come from and did that spark a love for bees?
My love for wildlife has always been a part of me, deeply rooted in my upbringing in the countryside. I grew up surrounded by animals, woodlands and rivers, and despite not having much, the natural world was our playground. My parents and grandparents shared a deep appreciation for nature, and it was how we spent our spare time – simply being in nature. My grandfather, who is now 93, was a beekeeper, so I grew up around bees, insects, animals, and nature in general.
Tomatoes are Olga’s favourite crop
A fulsome crop of French garlic
You run a beekeeping business with your partner. Is beekeeping something you would recommend to other gardeners and how should they start?
Running a beekeeping business with my partner has given me valuable insights. Often, people ask us: “Can I put a beehive in my garden to help the bees?” Our recommendation is to focus on helping the 272 other species of bees that need our assistance. Supporting leafcutters, mason bees, wool carder bees and bumblebees ➤ www.youtube.com/kitchengardenmagazine
A riotous bed of ox-eye daisies
Ox-eye daisies at sunset
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WHAT TO BUY | HANDY TOOLS
There are some small tools which are just handy to own as you are likely to use them all year – here’s a selection we put to the test
DARLAC MINI SNIPS WITH RUBBER GRIPS
2024
These Darlac Mini Snips have stainless steel blades for rust resistance and ergonomic handles with rubber grips. They also have a single-handed locking mechanism which can be operated with either the left or right hand. Length of tool: 15cm (6in). GARDENING NATURALLY www.gardening-naturally.com TEL: 01285 760505 PRODUCT CODE: MS002 PRICE: £9.99
* Prices correct at time of publication
KG VERDICT
An excellent pair of snips, comfortable in the hand. The blades are suitably sharp and there is a very responsive spring mechanism without being too taut. This makes deadheading very easy but they can also be used for cutting herbs, harvesting veg on the vine and light pruning. Very good value for money.
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PRODUCT REVIEW
CLASSIC POCKET KNIFE This general-purpose knife has a straight, high carbon steel blade, 9cm (3½in) long, folding into a 10cm (4in) handle. With a solid brass blade housing, this knife is RHS endorsed. Note: can only be purchased in-store so go to website for stockists. BURGON & BALL www.burgonandball.com TEL: 0114 233 8262 PRODUCT CODE: N/A PRICE GUIDE: £39.99
KG VERDICT
A handy knife for a range of gardening tasks, from taking cuttings to opening packaging to cutting twine. This has an attractive wooden handle and clicks securely into place when open. The edge is suitably sharp for most appropriate tasks.
CLASSIC GARDENING SCISSORS These scissors are 21cm (8¼in) long and have extra-hard stainless steel blades. The sinuous ergonomic handles have been designed to accommodate the natural movement of the hand when cutting. The handles are impact resistant and corrosion resistant. FISKARS www.fiskars.com TEL: Go to website for stockists PRODUCT CODE: 1001539 PRICE: £17.95
KG VERDICT
These are an excellent pair of scissors, comfortable in the hand with sharp blades, just the right size for a range of tasks from cutting flowers, herbs, cut-and-come-again salad leaves and also twine. Also useful for cutting weed-suppressant fabric, bubble wrap and cardboard for gardening purposes. ➤
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In the cold midwinter there’s nothing better than some good, wholesome dishes, says Anna Cairns Pettigrew. This month her choice veg are leeks, Savoy cabbage and kale
Cabbage and potatoes go very well together, with almost any flavour combinations. Here they are paired in a delicious Indian dry curry, perfect for winter.
SERVES 4 Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 35 minutes
■ 1 tsp coriander seeds ■ 2 tsp cumin seeds ■ 3 tbsp coconut oil ■ 10 curry leaves ■ 1 tbsp black mustard seeds ■ 1 large onion, sliced ■ ½ chilli, sliced ■ 600g (11⁄3lb) potatoes, peeled and diced ■ 1 large Savoy cabbage, shredded ■ 1 tsp turmeric 1. Lightly grind the coriander and cumin seeds with a pestle and mortar. Set aside. 2. Put the oil into a large lidded frying pan over a medium heat and add the curry leaves, mustard seeds and onion. Cook for around 10 minutes, until golden, stirring occasionally. 3. Next, add the crushed coriander, cumin and chilli followed by the potatoes. Cook for 10 minutes, turning every now and then until crispy. Add a splash of water then cover with the lid and cook for a further five minutes, until the potatoes are tender. 4. Finally, add the shredded cabbage to the pan with a couple more splashes of water and stir-fry for three minutes. 5. Season well with salt, add the turmeric, mix well, cover with the lid, reduce the heat to low and cook for another 4-5 minutes. 6. Serve immediately, for example with rice and daal.
Leek and potato – always a winner! Here they are together in a fancy dish of buttery almond pastry with goat’s cheese filling.
MAKES 4 PORTIONS Preparation time: 35 minutes Cooking time: 40 minutes FOR THE DOUGH ■ 75g (2½oz) almonds ■ 300g (10½oz) plain flour ■ 1 tsp salt ■ 1 tsp sugar ■ 225g (8oz) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces FOR THE FILLING ■ 1 tbsp olive oil, plus more for drizzling ■ 1 large leek, white and pale-green parts only, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced ■ 100g (4oz) fresh goat’s cheese ■ 5 tbsp double cream ■ 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped ■ Salt, freshly ground pepper ■ A large bunch of dill, chopped, divided, plus sprigs for serving ■ 2 large potatoes, very thinly sliced ■ 1 large egg, beaten Make the dough: 1. Pulse the almonds in a food processor until coarsely ground. Add the flour, salt and sugar and pulse to combine. Now add the butter and pulse just until a coarse mixture forms. With the motor running, gradually add in half a cup of ice water and process until dough comes together. 2. Transfer dough to a work surface; form into
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four balls, then flatten into discs. Wrap, then chill for at least 30 minutes. Filling and assembly: 1. Preheat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas mark 4. 2. Heat the oil in a pan over medium-low. Cook the leeks, stirring occasionally, until softened but without taking on any colour, about five minutes. Transfer to a plate. 3. Mix the goat’s cheese, cream and garlic in a medium bowl to combine; season with salt and black pepper. 4. Roll out one piece of dough on a lightly floured surface to a 20cm (8in) round; transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Spread one-quarter of the goat’s cheese mixture over the dough, leaving a 2.5cm (1in) border. Scatter a heaped tbsp dill evenly over, then top with a thin layer of potato slices. Drizzle with oil; season with salt. 5. Scatter one-quarter of the leeks over the potatoes. Fold the edges of the dough over the filling, tucking and overlapping slightly as needed. Repeat with the remaining dough, goat’s cheese mixture, chopped dill, potatoes and leeks and more oil and salt to make three more galettes. 6. Brush the top of the dough with the beaten egg. Bake the galettes until the crusts are golden brown and the potatoes are soft, 30-40 minutes. Serve with any extra dill on top. ➤ www.kitchengarden.co.uk | 93
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