bowline, 70–71 bowline, double loop, 76–77 butterfly (backpacker) coil, 39, 40–41 camming devices (SLCDs), 123–35 CAMS, 145–46 carabiners, 52–61 array of designs/applications, 52 autolock or twistlock, 56–57 basic design, 52–53 D-shaped, 54, 57 loading guidelines, 57–60 locking, 52, 53–57 oval, 52, 53, 57, 59 pear-shaped, 52, 54, 55 screwgate, 54–56 strength ratings, 57 tying Munter hitch on, 88–89 when to retire, 61 wiregate, 52, 53 catastrophe knot, 201, 246 children liability and minors, 10 minimum age for, 24 taking kids climbing, 24–26 chockcraft evolution, 112–23 “Climb on” signal, 194 climber pickoff, 221–27 climbing instructor instructor meetings, 16 professionalism, 3–5 risk management. See risk management references role of, 1 stewardship, 14–16 teaching skills. See teaching, art of climbing movement bipeds becoming quadrupeds, 26–27 teaching, 26–27. See also teaching, art of
terrain-specific movement, 27 “Climbing” signal, 194 climbing signals, standard, 194–95 closing the system, 184 clove hitch, 85, 86 coaching, 227 coiling and uncoiling ropes, 39–43 communications plan, 9 contacts, post-trip, 10 cordelettes and cords anchoring solution, 151–54 instructor tether, 165–67 the quad, 157–58 rigging, 153 types and characteristics, 50–52 See also ropes CRASH check, 185 debrief, incident, 10 descent options, 237 directional (in-line) figure eight, 68–69 double fisherman’s knot, 78–79, 81, 83 double loop knots, 72–78 BHK (“Big Honking Knot”), 72–73 double loop bowline, 76–77 double loop figure eight, 74–75 dry coating ropes, 37–38 dynamic ropes, 34–35, 36 Dyneema and Spectra slings, 47–49 elevators, 209 equalette, 160–62 equipment basics, 28–61 autoblocking devices, 244–46 belay devices, 192–96 harnesses, 28–30 helmets, 31–32 knives, 44 pack and its contents, 61 slings and webbing, 44–49 See also carabiners; ropes
ethics, leave no trace, 240–41 Euro Death Knot (flat overhand), 84–85 evacuation plan, 9 extensions creating master point over cliff edge, 167 pre-equalized (Backside System), 175–79 V rigging with, 168–72 failure, fear of, 12 fall factor, determining, 242–43 falling hazards, 185–86 “Falling!” signal, 195 fear, of heights/of failure, 12 figure eight bend (Flemish bend), 80, 83 figure eight follow-through, 64–65 figure eight loop, 66–67. See also double loop knots; in-line (directional) figure eight financial risk, 12–14 fireman’s belay, 208 first-aid requirements, 9 fisherman’s knots double, 78–79, 81, 83 triple, 82 fixed lines, 231–33 flakes, avoiding, 102–7, 118, 126 flat overhand (Euro Death Knot), 84–85 Flemish bend (figure eight bend), 80, 83 grapevine knot. See double fisherman’s knot ground anchors base-managed sites and, 190–92 checking, 184 student belay backups, knots and, 236 harnesses about, 28–30 Index
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