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This collection of six AW15/16 womenswear looks have been diffused from ‘Power’. The aim of ‘Power’ is to communicate society’s views on exposing desirable features of the male and female body and the negative reactions that come with this. This is translated into six male and female paired outfits to be sold within the mid-level designer market. The aim of the diffusion collection is to convey these ideas in a way that makes it suitable for the H&M consumer. High-street market constraints influence each part of this design process. Fabric is of high quality and also good value for money with careful sourcing of silk crepe de chine and jersey, sweat-shirting and wool. A colour palette of warming, soft greys mixed with deep navy blue is diluted from the all black colour scheme of ‘Power’. This softens the harshness and adds a more feminine edge to make each look more wearable for every day. Silhouettes are relaxed and easy but keep the youthful, streetwear edge to appeal to the younger age range of H&M. Panels and necklines are in the ‘V’ shape to emphasise feminine features in a more subtle way; long lines down the back and legs draw attention to natural lines which are found desirable by society. Insulting words are printed onto t-shirts, jumpers and panels for the wearer to take ownership and embrace. The words are cheeky as a way for the wearer to make fun and not take the negativity seriously. This fun approach conveys the original concept whilst ensuring the collection remains commercial.


‘Blueprint’ is a conceptual exploration into the controlled, conformist world we live in translated into six womenswear looks to be exhibited in London’s Dover Street Market. Key inspiration begins by looking at AW15/16 trend Decrypt with ideas of coding and encrypting information to hide from urban surveillance. The idea of hiding is carried forward into the need to blend in and conform in uniform like clothing. Silhouette ideas come from security guard uniform with an oversized, relaxed feel to bring luxury to the tough utility. Graphic layering has been another source of inspiration, pushing the boundaries of cutout shapes and paneling to give the silhouette more volume. Ideas of print originate with surveillance technology; zooming in on details like circuit boards and out to areal views of floor plans. Blueprints become key and are placed directly onto garments in blocks. Deep and mid tones of blue and grey represent going undetected but are cut through by blasts of orange and white. Fabrics contrast with the toughness to give a premium edge with the use of silk twill and crepe de chine. Neoprene jackets and paneling keep the collection functional and pelmet is encased in silk twill print to give a strong, board like effect. Dover Street Market is a highly eclectic concept store, which offers its consumer a crossover between art and fashion. ‘Blueprint’ offers the customer a commercial, wearable collection mixed with elements of art. This collection is aimed at twenty-six to thirty-five year old women living and working in an urban environment, this is their own underground uniform allowing them to rebel against conformity.


‘Ethereal Collision’ looks into the relationship and crossovers between our natural landscapes and man-made buildings. The project brings together these two opposing components into a collection of six womenswear outfits for SS15. Use of print and colour is sourced from Fyodor Golan’s SS15 collection. Highly commercial garments are almost stamped with blocks of print encouraging graphic, bold lines which add an element of fun whilst keeping the collection accessible. The concept is inspired by elements of the SS15 print and graphics trend Scene Scapes; beautiful renditions of the land, cutouts and creases. Ideas of print have been created by painting and drawing directly onto natural landscapes to make interesting lines; directly inspired by artist Mauren Brodbeck’s work. Whilst lines and edges are sourced from man-made creations, silhouettes are a relaxing, light contrast. Skirts and tops are almost lifted with flowing pleats and jumpsuits are loose and airy with a barely-there effect. This feeling is continued with the use of natural, light fabrics such as silk and chiffon. Leather has lasercut edges taken from the print and is applied to tops and pockets. Colours are delicate and light with pastel hues of blue, pink and green taken from early spring landscapes and sky scenes. ‘Ethereal Collision’ is a sublime, light collection to bring together the natural and synthetic parts to make us feel at one with the world.


‘Charge’ is functional, flowing and fast-paced. Six womenswear looks blend efficient sports garments with high-end contemporary fashion. The focus of the inspiration comes from runwear and swimwear; combining elements of both to allow quick transitions between sports. This collaboration with Adidas is aimed at women whose demanding lifestyle means they need quick, transitional garments that can take them from one activity to the next. Cropped tops and leotards are in water-resistant scuba allowing maximum ease of movement. These are paired with loose, natural silk shorts and leggings in breathable power mesh. Each look is encapsulated in protective, waterproof plastic hooded sweatshirts and dresses. Every outfit has panels with incorporated pockets and reflective tape and zips to show the consideration of safety. Colours contrast with the non-stop everyday life of the wearer to ensue a calming, peaceful mood. ‘Charge’ makes fast-paced life easier and more efficient and once the garments are on they allow time for reflection and calm. Nudes, pale blues and tonal whites realise this aesthetic whilst black and dark blue gives power to the collection allowing the wearer to realise their full capability and potential.


Profile for Zoe Mackenzie

Zoe Mackenzie Graduate Portfolio  

Portfolio of collections from my final year

Zoe Mackenzie Graduate Portfolio  

Portfolio of collections from my final year

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