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DAZED

& CONFUSED

eatable accessories Young Ju Do makes bio-couture

destructive art Sabatina Leccia destroys to create

3 dimension manufacturing has never been that easy before PHOTOGRAPHY JOSH BRANDAO

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PLUS Abby Li Hara Katsiki Jolan Van Der Wiel Remi Paringaux


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THE COVER

IOANNA ZIROGIANNI wears dress by ABBY LI photography JOSH BRANDAO styling ZETA ZIROGIANNI 7 11 15 19

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THE FRONT

INCOMING: TECH NEWS

THE MAINS

EAT MY NECKLACE designer YOUNG JU DO on her bio-degrading project COMPOSTABLE CRAFT APPETITE FOR DESTRUCTION designer SABATINA LECCIA on her project EAT THE WORLD UP IN ANOTHER DIMENSION the creative evolution of 3D printing

THE FASHION

FASHION FORWARD: THOM BROWNE BARBARELLA CHIC photography JOSH BRANDAO styling ZETA ZIROGIANNI REFLECTING THE FUTURE designer ABBY LI on new, innovative fabrics

THE BACK

Q&A: multitalented HARA KATSIKI on her work and her plans for the future Film: CUT & WRAPPED / FILM REVIEWS Last Shot: art director REMI PARINGAUX on coming innovation regarding iPad

3D illustration by MOX:LIVE


INTRODUC TION 5

FUTURE

“One of the main, unique qualities about the language that arts speaks is that it doesn’t take the world for granted as being truthful; it looks at the world, as if the world was a model and what happens is that suddenly reality becomes relative, suddenly it can change...” Future is an idea until it becomes a fact. Listening to Olafur Eliasson describing the space as a process at his homonymous documentary film, the conception of creating

a magazine regarding future has come rather automatically. Inspired by what’s about to come, this supplement will get engaged with all these exceptional projects which are already here but the common public ignores them. Aim of the ‘FUTURE FORWARD’ is to find and write about these outstanding artists who deny imitation and live years forward from us. Enjoy! ZETA ZIROGIANNI, EDITOR

CONTRIBU TORS JOSH BRANDAO

London College of Fashion’s MA photographer and FUTURE collaborator Josh Brandao photographed this issue’s fabulous shoot. “I think the future is looking back. We don’t want to new. We want to revisit the past. For this shoot my idea was Barbarella Chic!”

KATERINA SAMOILIS

Katerina Samoilis has studied BA Performance Design and Practice at Central Saint Martin’s College. Katerina created the make up for Barbarella chic;s shoot.


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Text ZETA ZIROGIANNI Photographs taken from the sites

INCOMING IPAD GENERATOR

Ladies and gentlemen... Let’s all welcome ‘Morpholio’! Designers and artists can now share their visions with other, equally creative minds; only with the touch of their iPad screens. They can watch, admire and criticize as well. Inspiration has never come that easy before!

BLOW THAT PLANT

mymorpholio.com

Can architecture and nature be combined? H.O.R.T.U.S. (Hydro Organism Responsive to Urban Stimuli) is the new exhibition to encourage the urban biogardening. How does this work? The plants are linked with plastic bags which each ends to a tube, where visitors can blow through and reenforce the plants’ growth. It’s your breath that does the whole job - carbon dioxide is being produced as you expire. aaschool.ac.uk

STAND TALL KITE BOX

Who says a kite has to be flat or in a plane form to fly? The ‘little shining man’, the square device Heather and Ivan Morison have designed, breaks the already established beliefs. The cube can fly, even if it’s not aerodynamic. I’m telling you... morison.info/littleshiningman

“Stop hunch backing all the time!” Six words almost every mother has used against her children. It’s about time to overpass that. The ‘Posture Suspenders’, created by Tobias Sonne, will help you on that. This piece of accessories will vibrate every time you slouch reminding you that way to always stand straight. “No more screams momma! I can do it on my own!” tobiassonne.com


FORWARD

8 DESIGN THAT MAGNETIZES

RIDE YOUR BAG

Urban ‘portable’ alternatve transports had never been that good. The word ‘portable’ would rather be used metaphorically than in a real form. That was what Gustavo Brenck observed and came up with the evolution of the bergmonch bike; the Gig Pack. Weighing 6.5 kgs and in the same size of a regular school backpack, ‘Gig Pack’ has the potentials to become our everyday equipmemt. Despite that still being a project, the designer evaluates its production is moving in a positive way. The evaluated price for the back pack is US$ 150. coroflot.com

‘Future Forward’ always acclaims new designers for pushing the boundaries and stepping out of the crowd. Jolan Van der Wiel is one of these people. The Dutch interior designer has recently brought to light his unique design process. What was the challenging in this procedure was the leadership in the tools he made use of. To define it; Van der Wiel mixed plastic liquid with iron shavings and placed the mixture under three magnets. The magnets pulled the iron upwards and the result was to create the legs of Jolan’s ‘Gravity Stools’. The designer has recently won the ‘Interior Innovation Award 2012’ given by the German Design Council. jolanvanderwiel.nl

SPY EYEWEAR

You got bored of your normal glasses... Understood! What if you tried something more innovative? Like a pair of recording eyeglasses maybe? The ‘eyez glasses’, as they are called, will launch during the summer coming. With a high quality camera and microphone placed on them, you can record whatever you see for 2-3 hours. Just by clicking a tiny button on the skeleton. Excuse us, but we are certainly going to buy this; you never know how useful a spy gadget might end to be... zioneyez.com


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PUSH THE BUTTON Someone would say it has no difference from an MP3 player. He is apparently deceived. Playbutton is like a single record on a wearable version. You can’t add or remove songs. You just add your headphones and enjoy your favorite music. A wide range of albums is offered - from ‘ZS’ to ‘Bow Ribbons’. The price depends on the artists’ will - no standard cost exists by the manufacturing company.

DEAR TO WET ME?

Ross Technology Corp achieved the impossible. They ‘ve created a superhydrophobic spray which pretends fabrics from getting stained. Even if you pour chocolate onto your white shoesafter spraying of course- no stain will be left on your shoes. You can call it magic I guess.. We just wonder; what else might this spray be used for in the future?

playbutton.co

neverwet.com

GET OUT THERE

LIVING ON THE AIR 75 floors, 1960 units and 30 years of life for each of them. Big numbers for even bigger expectations. ‘Unit Fusion’ is a project run by ‘Y Design Office’ in Hong Kong; a building that allows the reinforcement both of individuality and networking. Would you ever live in that building? Challenging or just scary? ynotwhy.com

WET & WILD Shane Dorian, surfer and Hub Hubbard, Billabong’s designer did their miracle! If you like watresports, the wetsuit these two geniuses have created will gain your interest for sure. When you wear it, it seems like a normal wetsuit. However, when in danger, you just pull a cord, and this suit inflates on the back bringing you on the sea level. Worrying about getting drown? Not any more... billabong.com/v1wetsuit

It is promoted as the first NY resort built for the gay communityit is straight-friendly though as well. The perfect combination of hotel, shopping centre and night club... The ‘Out NYC’ concept sounds interesting but what’s the most catchy is its design. Paul Dominguez and his creative team absolutely got the spirit of the Times Square. The result? Great architecture in the greatest city. theoutnyc.com


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GOGGLE EYES

Here they come video lovers... The new 3D smartgoggles, created by Sensics, are going to be released later this year. You can connect them to your pc, your tablet or gaming concole. By allowing you to use your hands, the first 360 degree goggles are not going to disappoint you. Virtual reality has now passed in a new level...

IT’S ELECTRIC

smartgoggles.net

HELLO KITTY

LOOK, NO HANDS! Admit it... The modern people, we are addicted to the iPhone. Those not owning one cant’t wait to do own. The others who already possess one, they cant take it off their hands. Well, this belt-like flexible plastic strip has a clip on the end, where you can connect your iPhone. See? Now, you can watch movies or make your video calls while eating/writing at the same time. Feeling releived, ah? getvyne.com

More than 10.000 stray cats are wandering in NY’s streets. ‘Co Adaptive Architecture’ decided to fight this problem and in collaboration with Kathryn Walton, the founder of ‘American Street Cat Inc’, they’ve created data collective shelters. Meaning, they’ve designed shelters in which homeless cats not only can they find the warmth they need but they might also get some human care also. As soon as a cat enters the shelter, a small LED lamp lights up and data (weight, length of stay) regarding the cat are sent to a base station. First thought? “It was about time”. Second thought? “They’d better try this in Rome too.” coadaptive.co

There is a certain group of people who can’t stand the cold at all. Whenever the temperature goes low, they’d rather stay home, in the heat. Columbia Sportswear knows how to get you out of home. The Omni electric jacket is an electric rechargable one. The company has placed heaters inside the jacket, which makes the general area get warmed. Despite the freezing weather, your body will stay warm. Rethinking that trip to the Alps maybe? columbiasportswear.co.uk


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FUTURE

the cycle of life

current pieces from Young Ju Do’s work


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eat my necklace Young Ju Do’s message is clear: art and nature can definitely go together

‘Inspiration’ is the word that comes in your mind when you meet Young Ju Do. Her inventiveness, plus her strict attention to detail are some of the qualities she owns, making it rather impossible for her not to do it great. It’s about not going back to the recipe; the student of the MA Textiles Futures at Central Saint Martins goes beyond the traditional eco-friendly design. Showing a great amount of personal discipline, she won’t only design a wide range of fashion accessories, but she will also manufacture the materials for her pieces all by herself. In an era where the fast and mechanically treated is what sells the most, exceptional works should be rewarded more often. Ecological awareness, regretfully, happens to be an underestimated choice nowadays. Ju seems to disagree... “Most biodegradable products can only degrade in an industrial composting facility. However, this uses a lot of energy when things degrade,” Ju says. When it comes to eco-consciousness, if you respect yourself, you have to do it right. What’s the point of choosing organic materials while causing inexcusable

energy waste? Thinking of that, the main aim of Ju’s project is to create home-degradable and biologically nutritious accessories. The young designer must be Tesco’s favourite client! Any food that’s ready to expire and get into the bin is exactly what could be of use for her biodegrading process. The list of the materials she uses is interestingly big (corn/rice/potato/ sweetpotato starch, cotton, flax strick, camel, bamboo, abaca, flax sliver, jute sliver, soya, seacell, hemp etc). Ju is very loyal to her work. She even has a diary keeping notes of the changes her materials show every two or three days. That way, she will never repeat her mistakes. She refuses to succumb to any chemical supplement. Even the colours she uses, all come from wasted food. For example, to add red colour, what she actually does, is melting beetroot and onion; as soon as she has a juice from them, she pours it into her materials. “It’s all organic and natural,” Ju says. The overall effect is subtle. Supporting the main idea of biodesign, Ju, who already owns a BA

Photographs from the artist’s personal portfolio


FUTURE

13 in textiles at CSM, will even cook her materials to succeed the biggest flexibility in design later. Despite her resourcefulness, though, the result is not always encouraging. Her favourite material is yarn. Yarn is usually used to create fabrics by knitting and it’s considered as an easy strand of textiles to handle and make stuff from it. Ju’s pieces are still in the manufacturing process. Afrer all the experiments she has made, her fabrics are ready. She is now developing her designs by using the home biodegraded fabrics to create fashion accessories, such as necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings. Because Ju is first a designer and then a biotechnician. Unfortunately, such accesories are not destined to live forever. A year in the air is probably the longer they can last. Nevertheless, once you put them in a compostable bin or in the soil, that will process to biodegrade. It wont cause any undesirable waste. The technical complexities of her project wouldn’t led Ju out of the realm of fashion. This young lady considers herself more as a designer than as an artist. She’s not just planning to exhibit her work, but sell it as well. “Someone told me that you can’t keep these pieces forever, so why should people buy this? But, even the flower you know it

will die in one week but you still buy it and you deserve it. I think it’s the same,” Young Ju Do says. She hasn’t thought of the price yet, but she is sure some collective design shops would be interested in her work. Maybe we see her pieces in Tent London or 100% Design later this year? That would be the ideal case for her. Her MA is coming to the end in June. Then, all the graduates of her course are exhibiting at CSM’s new site in King’s Cross.

It’s important that exceptional things exist; it’s in our hands not to let them get drowned in the mediocrity that surrounds us.

“The best way to make a contribution in fashion is to promote the idea that a fundamental interest in preserving the environment is itself fashionable” -Giorgio Armani


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1st stadium of biodegradation


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Pieces from Sabatina Leccia’s work


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appetite for destruction Sabatina Leccia creates art out of shocking deforestation statistics

‘Eat the world up’ is the title of her work. Message received... Our world is being destroyed, but what are we doing to change that? Awareness should be uprated, Sabatina Leccia, the young designer from Corsica believes. “80% of our original forests in our planet are gone. I want to translate this through my work. It’s quite huge and nobody knows about it. We know that the planet is being collapsed but we don’t really care for it. We know it but nobody changes anything. I wanted to show this work so people would start thinking about it more carefully.” Sabatina, exactly like Young Ju Do, studies MA Future Textiles at Central Saint Martin’s College of Arts & Design. Her educational background - first BA in History and Archaelogy and second BA in Fashion can actually show up through her work. Recently, she’s learnt some techniques on textiles and she really wanted to develop this skill. Sabatina worries about the disappearance of our natural resources. Her work is used as a metaphor of this destruction; she

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has designed a table set to show how modern people are greedily eating our natural heritage. The crockery is so destroyed that it looses its function. Here, the designer has intended to translate the delicate balance we are currently living in. There is a strong tension on the table, the whole set is still here but one can easily imagine that everything could be smashed up into pieces in a second if she keeps destroying the table set. As this table set, we’ve reached a point where, if we carry on pushing our «appetite» for the natural resources, our overconsumption, society and our planet’s fragile balance will collapse. But why has Leccia come with a table set? What is her inspirattion? “I’ve read about sustainability and knew that I wanted to go on with this - I’ve been very interested in this subject. I’ve come with this idea that has to do with food because last year we had a food project. So, I wanted to develop this idea of eating, how we eat, and eventually how we eat the planet,” the designer says. In this case, Sabatina uses design to communicate an idea. Apparently, textiles is not only fabric; it can be

Photographs from the artist’s personal portfolio


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FUTURE ceramic, it can be something else. Her work is not completed yet. Only the first step is done. For now, the material Leccia has chosen is the ceramic. For her next step, she is going to add wood in order to transfer this idea about the forests. “I’m not going to use this table set solely. I’ll use also an Asian table set with chopsticks - chopsticks are made from wood and a lot of people are wasting them; I have some statistics about that,” Sabatina describes. This is just the begining. What we already see, is just her first table set. However, the young creator is making one more from wood and one last from plastic. Each table set will represent some statistics. Depending on the materials she makes use of, the manufacturing procedure will differ. For the ceramics she has drilled some tiny holes. Leccia has also tried glass as one of her choices, but the specific material seems hard to work on as it keeps breaking. In the same vein, after finishing “eat me up”, Sabatina would like to experiment herself more in textiles. Carpets instead of table sets is alredy an option in her mind; if 80% of the carpet was eaten, what would it remain? The artist who has alreday distinguished among the

finalists of the competition “ EDF Sustainable Challenge” for the movie and website “Energy Diet” she’s created, what expects the most from her current work, is to get known to the media. A job regarding sustainability would be perfect for her, as long as that is not in the close borders of a company, where creativity is quitely limited. Art is a reconciliation between the man and the nature and Sabatina is certainly aware of this.

“Art is the symbol of the two noblest human efforts: to construct and to refrain from destruction”Evelyn Waugh


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Sabatina Leccia’s ceramic table set


IN ANOTHER DIMENSION


3D printing is not just changing arts and manufacturing. It’s changing the world

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Watching surrealistic movies with an intense futuristic element might get you into thoughts. Remember that time when, still being a kid, you lied down your sofa watching ‘Back to the Future’? Every time, no matter how many times you would watch it, you had that little question dancing in your head: “If that time machine really existed, what would I do?” In a similar mood but present tense, I‘ve found questioning myself while watching the multiplayed DVD Iron man II. “Can these costumes ever exist?” Well, they already exist, you future freaks (including myself)! For the unconscious ones, the Iron Man’s suit is real; it’s not the effective work of a computer graphic designer, but a reallife 3D printed object. According to Wikipedia, 3D printing is the process of creating three dimensional objects from a digital file using a materials printer, in a manner similar to printing images on paper. The objects created have an actual physicality and they can nowadays be used in every aspect of life – from arts and decoration to repairing your broken tools. Once, rapid prototyping, as 3D printing is also widely called, was exclusively known by the experts. No more! 3D printing has been here for a while but it hasn’t been accessible to the public. Now, walking in the steps of ‘Apple’, ‘Cubify’, a company which provides 3D content-to-print solutions, is setting the foundation of a new, promising industry; home prototyping. 3D printers are no more supplied solely to big engineering corporations. With the new Cube 3D printers for home, you can become your own special creator. Of course, the current cost of the printer tagged in the price of $1299 doesn’t seem to fit in every simple person’s pocket, but think of the fact that this is only the beginning. As said before, a new industry is getting born. Whatever new and innovative gets out in the market, it obviously translates its innovation into an unreachable sales price - the game of business; until the day another company presents a similar but

20 cheaper product. Rules always change when an effective competition exists. But is 3D printing truly for everyone? Doesn’t it need talent to create the 3D models first? Chris Lynas has recently created a 3D printed, clockwork record player based on the extinct music box. The record plays the song ‘Still Alive’ from Portal. “Fisher-Price did make a real record player for kids but mine isn’t that type. The inspiration was simple - I bought the record player for the kids and I thought it would be interesting to be able to make up new tunes for it. It was also a way to learn a bit more about making sound in Processing which I’d never done before. Once I’d thought of it I found it attractive as a concept since it mixed old and new in so many ways: music box (very old), Fisher-Price toy (old[ish]), MIDI-like data (old[ish] but still going) encoded on the disk and (quite recent) high-resolution 3D printing,” says the 3D record creator. Chris’ background is in engineering in aerospace. His 3D work has been mostly outside of his day job frame; sometimes to sell it to others, partly for curiosity and mainly because it’s fun. However, having in mind that he is not a designer, it sounds odd how he can accomplish such a challenging task on his own. “Most of the 3D print work that I’ve done has come out of programming rather than 3D modelling. I like the ability to use randomness and customisation in models and I’ve found this easier with a model that’s generated algorithmically,” he explains. Another 3D designer is Robert Drummond, who has come up with the process of designing and refining the mesh pattern (at least one mesh is necessary for the underlying structure of every 3D model) to allow a balance of flexibility and strength and incorporating that pattern into purses and bags. His professional background is primarily graphic design and production, involving structural design, packaging graphic design, lettering, illustration, image manipulation and retouching, among other aspects of print and web media.


21 “Over the years, I have used a variety of 3D modelling and rendering applications to illustrate packaging, displays and interior environments. So, I have used them mostly for illustrative purposes rather than applying CAD for use in manufacturing. In my spare time, I have explored creative ways to use both the freedom and constraints of these 3D applications to incorporate my love of mathematics and my creative sensibilities,” Robert says. CAD (computer assisted design) is, despite its cost, the most commonly used 3D software in designing objects. “Many of my 3D designs, whether mathematical art, jewellery or purses, cannot be manufactured using any process besides 3D printing,” the designer says. It seems that 3D printing already has the lead. On the other side Gustavo Brenck, the creator of ‘Gig Pack’ – the bike/ backpack – doesn’t feel the same about 3Ds. “A lot of people just make 3Ds of their ideas and that freaks me out; even people that are industrial designers. like me, they keep making 3Ds and just throwing them on the internet. I could simply get all my ‘’stored’’ ideas into 3Ds and let them like that. The images would be nicer than a real picture, but that’s not how I work. I hate it when people make 3Ds of objects and don’t even think about how they will be manufactured. They think it’s really easy to manufacture something. Some design projects that I see on the web are simply impossible to be made. That’s why I make my projects to a prototype (most of it). It’s because when you make a prototype you know what’s wrong, what’s right, what can be made and what can’t. I just don’t publish my 3D work,” Gustavo says. . He is clearly talking about the new trend in design - online platforms which allows 3D projects sharing. ‘ Shapeways’ is one of these platforms. Here, everyone - designers but people experimenting as well

FUTURE – creates prototypes and shares them both before and after they are manufactured. That way you can check how others feel about you work. All comments are welcome; even suggestions for improvement. In the true spirit of open source, you can even copy and create someone else’s 3D prototype. So, here comes the issue ‘talent’ again. Apparently you don’t need to be a designer or an engineer; you only need to register a 3D sharing platform and designs will come to you. “Utilising an online 3D printon-demand service like Shapeways to showcase and sell my models obviates the need for various startup costs or for maintaining an inventory of consumables and printed pieces,” Drummond says. How sure can someone feel though about the result of his 3D project when sent to manufacturing process? Even with experience, and no matter how great a 3D rendering appears on the monitor, or the fact that one can view the model on screen from 360°, the physical printed piece usually brings at least a small bit of surprise. There are several factors that can adversely affect the outcome of a print, but many reputable firms offer a high level of quality control throughout their printing and handling systems. Different materials and processes offer different resolutions; so if you are buying a 3D print of someone else’s model based on a computer rendering instead of a photograph of an actual printed piece, you may be unpleasantly surprised at the result. 3D printing has already emerged in so many different offshoots: architecture, fashion, arts, engineering, food and modelling. Chances are the Iron Man’s suit wil be the top casual dress code in a few years. Shall I say WOOHOO? CHRIS LYNAS’ and ROBERT DRUMMOND’S creations are on sale on Shapeways.

Previous page, Photography Jared Tarbell

“Creative possibilities should not be limited or constrained by the use of any media, materials, techniques, or technology. Creativity is a process; a way of thinking. The challenge is to see things differently, to develop your own unique perspective, to discover for yourself what is possible, and to continue to push any perceived limitations. In a way, limitations may lean a person towards even more creative solutions.” Robert Drummond


THOM BROWNE F/W 2012 MENS SHOW

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SAY HI TO UNCLE FESTER?

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If what we got more enthusiastic about in Paris runways wasn’t the distinctive suits of Thom Browne, then what was it? The American designer, in his men’s collection for the Fall 2012, managed to impress his audience for once more. ‘The perfect combination of the futuristic and the playful element’ somebody might say! Wondering... Could that collection have been inspired from the legendary Addams Family? Is it Fester Addams Browne’s influence in this collection? And is this why the designer has placed his models under lamps? Is this all a proportion to that strange ability uncle Fester had to conduct electricity? However, Browne’s new collection has something further than scary. It’s playful too. How can these two happen together? Only Browne knows, I guess. Colours, unique shapes and mainly interesting patterns have been the designer’s ‘weapons’; safety pins, dogs and anchors were some of his patterns. Trust me. There is no chance you just say no to that amazing duck patterned suit skirt! Photography Alexandra Gordienko


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make up KATERINA SAMOILIS

BARBARELLA CHIC

photography JOSH BRANDAO styling ZETA ZIROGIANNI FORWARD 26


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clothes by ABBY LI model IOANNA ZIROGIANNI

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reflecting the future

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Abby li is changing the rules using bold new fabrics Everything is arranged for the shooting. Model - here. MUA - checked. Photographer - setting up. Man, this is going to be an amazing day! “The clothes are awesome and the designer is very friendly,” Josh Brandao, the photographer tells me. Seconds pass and a sweet Chinese girl enters the studio. Handshaking. “Nice to meet you Zeta, I am the designer,” Abby Li says. In this job, you often times have to meet people who are perfect as far as their work is concerned, but very hard to go with as personalities. Not for Abby. From the moment somebody sees her clothes, he bets that this is a professional work. Not ordinary designs at all! However, Abby Li is just studying MA in Digital Fashion at London College of Fashion. She is not popular yet, but trust me guys, she will sooner or later be! We discuss on college. Some problems in the duration of her course have made her feel unsure about her choice. She smiles. No worries. She’s doing great. “Let me show you the

clothes,” she says. This is love at first sight, I suppose. She enjoys looking at my dumbfounded face. I would do the same if I were she; can’t blame her. “The facet and the reflection of diamonds have inspired my latest collection,” Abby says. The futuristc element is obvious. Not the usual fabrics are used. Techno Textiles and materials such as the chameleon TPU and the reflective Lycra are from the details that attract you; all of them are ordered from Italy, China and Korea. “I love all the unique materials in the collection. It was hard, though, to work with the chameleon one - it was harder and thicker than leather,” the designer explains. Moreover, laser cut and pleating are the main techniques she applies. Reflection and detailed cut make an unbeatable pair. The photograher has to be really skillful to catch the different colours her clothes can take according to the body movement or the ligh’s direction. If this isn’t the future of textiles, then what is it? The collection, from which some

outfits have been produced in London, and some others in Hong Kong, is intended for all those people who feel unique and who are not afraid, of course, of trying new things. “It’s for all the people who to be stars. In fact, everybody is a unique star”Abby says with enthusiasm. During our conversation, the cute girl from Canton of China, never stops smiling. She keeps making complements to the others being present at the time. Is it the relief that her work is approved (Abby hasn’t shown her work yet) or is it just herself as a personality that can’t take the smile off her face? Abby Li’s collection is being shown in an exhibition at Victoria House Basement on the last day of January for the people invited. For the public, her clothes will be exhibited amongst other students’ work from the 1st to the 3rd of February.Meanwhile, the designer is trying to promote her work via the publishers and the media. text ZETA ZIROGIANNI


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I SEE THE FUTURE:

HARA KATSIKI BY ZETA ZIROGIANNI

ONE

QUESTION


FORWARD Hara Katsiki’s talents are richly layered. Pursuing her creative ambitions, she has already got engaged with graphic design and costume design, animation and recently painting. The multi awarded artist, when not feeding her cat or going for a walk in the forest under the sun light, she will rather work on a new, inspirational project. Despite living in Berlin she won’t restrict herself in a place – she is currently seeking a gallery representation in London. 2011 has been really productive for her. In present tense, she takes part in the GIF. ME. BERLIN exhibition, creating, amongst other 11 Berlin based artists, a series of animated gifts, showing her vision of the urban future. FUTURE FORWARD: At your latest work, ‘Looking Backward// Moving Forward’, there is a mix of the past and the futuristic element. Can you tell me some things about this exhibition? HARA: I was asked to create a series of works which would approach the vision of the future in our urban life. And as time for me does not really exist, I’ve played with it. So, I used old pictures in a visually modern interpretation. ‘Our communication will not require devices any more’ was the title for one of my works. There, three women sit in the living room connected with magnetic waves. You are a self-taught artist. You started from Greece and ended up in Germany with a collection of awards. Hard to maintain that? I was born and raised in Athens. When I finished school, I had to choose my educational direction and my dream was to do something creative - to become an artist. But my parents discouraged me a lot. They thought I should become a business woman. Do something more serious. So, knowing little, as I was very young, I followed their advice; I studied marketing and management at the New York College, which I quitted after three years, when I realised that wasn’t me. Then, I started my self-discovery journey. That was four years ago. After working in Athens as an art director for 2-3 years I realised that ANSWER

34 I need to stretch my wings and fly. I never felt I belonged there. Neither my work was easily accepted there. That was because the agency loved my work; they couldn’t sell it, though, to the target group.

I remember my creative director in the last agency I worked in Greece telling me: “Hara, I think you should go abroad. This place is not for you. You are suffering here.”

Why Berlin? Because Berlin is a city that lets you feel free. It’s such an inspiring city! I first came to Berlin 5 years ago, as a tourist. It was love at first sight. Tell me. What inspires most? You surely have a the subconscious. Hard to describe. It’s Everything inspires me. nature; or nature!

you the thing for

Do you ever come up with an idea while you are still on a different project? Oh, so many times! Even when I sleep! (Laughs again) Since my work is usually improvised, I just trust my guts and follow my subconscious. I go with the flow. I trust my instinct. What’s your biggest aim as an artist? I think I will never feel fulfilled as an artist. I always want to explore more. This is what keeps me fulfilled; being on a state of continuous creativity and progress. And what about your next big project? I‘m preparing a show with the fashion designer Tata Christiane, the photographer Valquire Veljkovic and the stylist Jeremie Rinaldi. We’ll make a group exhibition in Berlin, combining art installation, costumes and photography. Text ZETA ZIROGIANNI Photographs IHEARTBERLIN & INKLOVESPAPER

feelings. It’s my

You paint, animate and design. How do you balance all these? As a creative mind, I feel like expressing myself in different ways. I’m discovering. I like experimenting and challenging myself through different mediums. It’s like I’m a butterfly in a huge field of many different kinds of plants and flowers. (Laughs) I guess I’m still living in a fairy tale. You don’t restrict yourself in one or two materials. You work on wood, paper, fabrics… Is there anything else you are planning to work on in the future? I would like to experiment with oil and acrylic on canvas. I want to draw on porcelain too. It’s such a beautiful and delicate material.

ONE


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CUT & WRAPPED / FILM REVIEWS BY ZETA ZIROGIANNI

FUTURE

WIKILEAKS APOCALYPSE NOW DIR: PATRICK FORBES

FILM REVIEWS FATHER TAPE?

DIR: REBECCA THOMAS

Rachel comes from a Mormon family in Utah. Not having the freedom other teenagers have, she’s enjoying a forbidden but challenging experience when she listens to a tape with rock music on it during her 15th birthday. After 3 months Rachel is pregnant claimsing to have had an immaculate conception from listening to the music. When her parents decide to marry her, she runs away to LA to search for the tape’s rock singer. The mystery begins for the ‘electrick children’ electrickchildren.com

‘EATING ALABAMA’ DIR: ANDREW BECK GRACE

In need for a better life a couple decides to return to their home in Alabama and make their living by farming. Soon, they will realise that nothing has stayed the same in the food system... eatingalabama.com

A documentary film which has gathered the interviews of all the people involved in the Wikileaks story. Its founder, Julian Assagne and his partner Daniel Domscheit Berg are the main people of the story. Editors from the biggest newspapers such as Guardian and New York Times are other additional interviewees. Different opinions give eventually a full coverage of ‘Wikileaks’ secrets and lies’.

ROCK ‘N’ ROLL IDOLS EXPOSED DIR: DON LETTS

Bob Gruen has stories that nobody else has. Having been backstage with the most famous rock bands in the history, made it possible for him to learn the secrets and habits of every band member. Do Led Zeppelin, Rolling Stones, Bob Dylan and many more feel worried about him? Let’s just see the interviews of the stars talking about the most popular rock ‘n’ roll photographs of all time, taken by Gruen.


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FORWARD

REMI PARINGAUX THE GENIUS ART DIRECTOR SHAKING UP THE IPAD Remi Paringaux is a man who pulls his energy from his creativity. The French genius put in his paces first as an art director for Dazed&Confused and Vogue Hommes Japan before slipping to the foundation of a brand new magazine, created exclusively for the iPad. Therefore, Paringaux would certainly bring his signature edge to the publishing market; his quarterly published magazine, Post, already counts three issues and it is widely considered as one of the most successful magazines of its kind. “This is the future of the applications” as a Post’s reader would say. Remi knows exactly how to interpret his thoughts and feelings on an application

using always the latest technology and having in mind the different tasks he has to deal with in Post, ‘multifaceted’ would be the characterisation which would suit him the most. “I love printed magazines but the problem with them is that you have a passive, plain, visual experience reading through themturning the pages is the most active you can get. Post was created six months after the launch of the iPad and it was the first example of an attractive magazine rather than the adaptation of a printed magazine to the iPad. We want to show other publishers what they can do with this device. You can basically touch your content, you can

have moving pictures, e-commerce and games, the user can edit things himself or even skip some pages/ content. In Post, we do fashion shoots with ghost effects and the physical presence or absence of things. Our next issue is called Post Performance. There, we are looking at how the iPad makes you perform,act or move and how it modifies your body language in order to release the content that’s on the screen. We’ll have features playing with gyroscope, so depending on where your iPad is facing, that will affect the content; depending on what time of the day is or what country you are in, it might also affect the content. We just want to turn the

reading of an iPad magazine into a completely active experience. We want the reader to get off his chair and explore this 3-dimensional environment. The iPad has so many sensors and we want to explore all of them. I think some printed material needs to disappear. Everything that’s daily or weekly could live in digital. A book or a bi-annual magazine are ‘objects’ and they deserve to be printed because they are beautiful and their physicality makes them worth keeping - they are things you want to collect.” Text ZETA ZIROGIANNI Photography OLIVIER ZAHM



FUTURE FORWARD