Page 1

Belgrade and Serbia Visitors’ Magazine

Volume 11, SPRING 2011

free copy

BIG WAR ISLAND THE HIDEOUT OF GALLEYS AND BIRDS

INTERVIEW MOMČILO BAJAGIĆ BAJAGA

TOS RECOMMENDS DJERDAP NATIONAL PARK & LEPENSKI VIR

LITERARY GUIDE BRANKO ĆOPIĆ

NOVI SAD CITY OF CONGRESS TOURISM

BELGRADE EVENTS &SIGHTSEEING TOURS


IN THIS ISSUE / IZ SADRŽAJA

6

6 GREEN BELGRADE THE HIDEOUT OF GALLEYS AND BIRDS SKROVIŠTE GALIJA I PTICA

14 INTERVIEW  MOMČILO BAJAGIĆ BAJAGA SONG AGAINST ALL BAD LUCK PESMA PROTIV SVIH MALERA

14

22 LITERARY GUIDE  BRANKO ĆOPIĆ

GARDNER IN THE FLOWER GARDEN OF CHILDHOOD... BAŠTOVAN U CVETNOM VRTU DETINJSTVA...

22

2 9 PORTRAITS - MARIJA KARAĐORĐEVIĆ RETURN TO SERBIA PONOVO U SRBIJI 3 4 PORTRAITS  JOVAN NIKOLIĆ HERBARIUM OF DREAMS HERBARIJUM SNOVA

29

34

38

3 8 SIEPA - DECADE OF SUCCESS SIEPA - DECENIJA USPEHA 4 2 BELGRADE EVENTS DOGAĐAJI BEOGRADA 4 8 BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING TOURS RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA 60 NOVI SAD  CITY OF CONGRESS TOURISM LET’S MEET IN NOVI SAD SUSRETNIMO SE U NOVOM SADU 68 TOS RECOMMENDS  DJERDAP NATIONAL PARK DJERDAP SMILE & A DANCE ON THE WIND ĐERDAPSKI OSMEH I PLES NA VETRU

42

78 TOS RECOMMENDS  LEPENSKI VIR A GREAT DISCOVERY PROPERLY PRESENTED DOSTOJNA PREZENTACIJA VELIKOG OTKRIĆA 93 BELGRADE INFO

78


Belgrade&Serbia Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 62 tel./fax 323 12 44, 322 64 05, mob tel. 065/84 97 582 e-mail: office@belguest.rs, www.belguest.rs Copublisher - Suizdavač: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IX tel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414 e-mail: office@tob.co.rs www.tob.co.rs Publisher - Izdavač: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Copublisher - Suizdavač: Dejan Veselinov, vd direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Dragana Marković Editorial Staff - Redakcija: Milena Mihaljčić, Dragana Marković, Jadranka Đorđević Contributors - Saradnici: Jelena Tasić, Jovo Anđić, Gordana Miljojković, Aleksandar Miloradović, Mile Kovač Photographs- Fotografije: Danilo Peternek, Darimir Banda Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević English language editor - Lektor za engleski: Mark R. Pullen Information - Informacije: Pont i Turistička organizacija Beograda Marketing: PONT Design&Layout - Dizajn i prelom: Miroslav Zeljug Print - Štampa: Službeni glasnik, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization Front Page - Naslovna strana: “Sunshine Mermaid” from Great War Island - mural on a pile dwelling, photo Danilo Petrenek CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd

BelGuest : Belgrade visitors’ magazine / editor-in-chief Dragana Marković. - 2001, winter/spring - Beograd : Pont, 2001(Beograd : Službeni glasnik). - 28 cm Dostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. Tromesečno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010.: Događaji Beograda ISSN 1451-6446 = Bel Guest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

photo: Danilo Peternek

338.4

Knight in Contemplation – Queen Maria’s work of sculpture, inspired by the personality and fate of her husband, King Alexander I


Welcome to Belgrade!

www.travel-belgrade.com


E D I T O R I A L

|

U V O D N I K

Dear guests of Belgrade, Welcome to one of the oldest cities in Europe and one of the continent’s cities of the future! Due to its geographical position and cultural heritage, Belgrade sees its future in the further development of tourism. The great investment of the City, coupled with the efforts of the Belgrade Economy Secretariat and the Tourism Organisation of Belgrade, have shaped the diverse offer for sightseeing in this city. Over 50,000 cruise tourists who arrive via the Danube and Sava rivers are awaited by the beautiful panorama of the Belgrade Fortress, Nebojsa Tower and the Sava Promonade – landscaped and arranged through the coordinated efforts of the Economy Secretariat and public utility companies. If you embark on a sightseeing tour of Belgrade by river, bus or any other means of transport, you will long remember the unforgettable sights, which also include the city’s latest attraction – the bridge over Ada Ciganlija river island. In autumn Belgrade becomes the scene of important cultural events that flow constantly: the Belgrade Book Fair, the Bemus International Music Festival, the October Salon, the Festival of Documentary Film, the Belgrade Jazz Festival, major exhibitions, concerts of music greats ... Urban Belgrade offers you even more, with a complete range of varying activities. In contrast to the sprawling urban setting, we present to you with a “tranquil” city treasure: Great War Island, which, in juxtaposition to the urban Belgrade, is an oasis of untouched nature. This large sandbank is home to hundreds of nesting birds, including some very rare species. Great War Island is a realm of forests and wildlife and is a protected natural site of Belgrade. From the beauty of nature we return you to the urban part of Belgrade – this city with an open heart that lives 24 hours a day and boasts unparalleled nightlife and entertainment options. With a cosmopolitan orientation, focused on dynamic growth and progress, particular care is taken to preserve the city’s genuine values as it heads towards its candidacy for European Capital of Culture 2020 and seeks to position itself as a hub of cultural tourism in the region and a metropolis on the Danube. Once again, welcome to Belgrade! Olivera Savović Secretary of the Belgrade Economy Secretariat

Dragi gosti Beograda, Dobro došli u jedan od najstarijih evropskih gradova i jedan od evropskih gradova budućnosti! Zbog svog geografskog položaja i kulturnog nasleđa, Beograd svoju budućnost vidi u daljem razvoju turizma. Velikim ulaganjem grada i naporima Sekretarijata za privredu i Turističke organizacije Beograda, ponuda razgledanja grada postala je veoma raznovrsna. Više od pedeset hiljada turista koji krstare Dunavom i Savom dočekuju predivna panorama Beogradske tvrđave, kula Nebojša i Savsko pristanište, uređeno skladnim aktivnostima Sekretarijata za privredu i javnih komunalnih preduzeća. Ako pođete u razgledanje Beograda sa reka, autobusom ili bilo kojim drugim prevoznim sredstvom ostaće vam u sećanju nezaboravni pogledi, među kojima je i nova atrakcija grada – most preko Ade. U jesen, Beograd postaje pozornica značajnih kulturnih događaja koji se neprestano nižu: Sajam knjiga, Međunarodni muzički festival Bemus, Oktobarski salon, festival dokumetranog filma, Džez festival, značajne izložbe, koncerti muzičkih velikana... Urbani Beograd vam nudi još čutavu skalu različitih sadržaja. Kao kontrapunkt uzavreloj urbanoj sredini predstavljamo vam jedno „mirno“ gradsko blago – Veliko Ratno ostrvo, koje je ostalo oaza netaknute prirode. Na tom dunavskom sprudu gnezdi se na stotine ptica, među kojima su i veoma retke vrste. Ratno ostrvo je carstvo biljnog i životinjskog sveta i zaštićeno prirodno dobro Beograda. Iz prirode vraćamo vas ponovo u urbani prostor Beograda – grada otvorenog srca, koji živi 24 časa i koji je neprikosnoven po svom noćnom životu i zabavi. Kosmopolitski orijentisan, usmeren ka dinamičnom razvoju i napretku, sa posebnom brigom nastoji da sačuva prave vrednosti na putu ka kandidaturi za Evropsku prestonicu kulture 2020. i da se postavi kao centar kulturnog turizma u regionu i metropola na Dunavu. Još jednom, dobro došli u Beograd! Olivera Savović, Sekretar Sekretarijata za privredu

Skupština grada Beograda City Assembly of Belgrade

Turistička organizacija Beograda Tourist Organization of Belgrade

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

5


GREEN BELGRADE

THE HIDEOUT OF GALLEYS AND BIRDS The green island at the confluence of the rivers Sava and Danube is part of a unique view over the city from the Belgrade Fortress. In that panoramic view one can see the skyscrapers of New Belgrade and old Zemun with Gardos Tower, while the densely overgrown patch of land floating on the waters of two rivers is an area where plenty of birds, fish and plants still live undisturbed. This river island is called Great War Island and represents a protected oasis of nature amid Belgrade’s urban sprawl.

G

reat War Island has not existed “since time immemorial”, but has rather been created gradually, frequently changing shape over time through a process of creation and transformation that continues to this day. According to experts, it emerged from the water under peculiar natural circumstances – the meeting of Sumadiјa reefs and the Pannonian Plain at the point where the two rivers merge. In lay terms, the island was created by sand deposits at the confluence of the River Sava. The appearance of the island was first recorded in the 16th century when it was only a small sandbar. Its oldest visual image is on the map of Hungarian cartographer Lazarus Deak (approximately 1514). As its shape changed, so the island’s name changed too: the first recorded name was Danube Island, but it was also called Gypsy Island and Poverty Island. The current name was bvstowed during the Hapsburg siege of Belgrade in 1717. Famous commander Eugene of Savoy chose this place as a strategic location to attack

6

SUMMER | LETO 2011 BelGuest

the Belgrade Fortress, which was open and most vulnerable on that side. The island’s name has not changed since then and it has henceforth regularly appeared on all maps, plans and other documents, both military and civilian. GREAT AND SMALL GALLEY SLAVE Military historians and strategists would certainly be able to tell many interesting stories the about battles and military activities that were conducted on and around Great War Island. Its strategic military importance is indicated by its main toponyms today – Veliki and Mali Galijas (Great and Small Galley Slave). According to Momcilo Tomic, a guide for company Belgrade Greenery (Zelenilo Beograd) that today manages protected natural resources, these place names were given because it was right there, in channels overgrown by dense greenery, that war galleys and boats were hidden. Both written documents and oral tradition speak of Great War Island as an important crossroads of

trade routes, especially during the 19th century. According to tradition, a renegade Turkish pasha opened its own customs office on Great War Island and collected taxes for both the Austrian and


Turkish empires. His harem is also mentioned as being similar to that on Labudovo Okno (Swan’s pane) near Ram Fortress. Today Veliki Galijas is home to a birdwatching hide and, with a little imagination, it is not difficult to imagine war ships secretly hiding in that lush greenery. VEGETABLE GROWERS FROM UNDERWATER MEADOWS The sandbar, which is under constant flood attack from the rivers, was long ago discovered by the vegetable growers of Zemun and Belgrade. The Danube deposits fertile soil onto Great War Island, while water and moisture are plentiful. Walking down the trails on the island you will come across the shacks of vegetable growers and major plots of land where all kinds of vegetables and flowers are grown. It is said that legumes thrive best there. You may have already bought beans grown in the sands of Great War Island at Belgrade’s open-

air markets without even knowing it. It is said that Great War Island would feed Belgrade during wars and other hard times and even though this sounds like an exaggeration, the fertile area of the island is actually a vast area of land. The “vegetable” part includes the so-called recreation zone, which includes parts of the interior of the island. RAINFOREST WITH AN URBAN VIEW It is amazing that there are so many different landscapes in one encircled area the size of a large urban quarter. Any introduction to Great War Island begins on the beautiful sandy beach at “Lido”. Next one passes through a valley full of vegetable

patches and field huts, with meadows carrying the scents of medicinal herbs. At some point one will enter a seemingly genuine rainforest. Dense forests covered with even denser, interlaced creepers, with shrubs and bushes all around. Only the sounds of nature can be heard. Dense vegetation is directly related to the frequent floods and heavy underground waters, while the forest is dominated by white willows neighbouring large black poplar, ash and hawthorn trees, we learn from the guides. One is aware that this island is surrounded by the city, but the city is neither seen nor heard. It is only when one leaves the coast and peeks through the

Educational visitor centre

BelGuest LETO | SUMMER 2011

7


THE KINGDOM OF BIRDS

Great War Island and the waters around it are home to 163 species of birds, classified into 46 families and 16 orders. Great War Island is the nesting place for 66 bird species - of which 43 are resident species and 23 migratory. Research results show that this area represents Belgrade territory’s point of greatest biodiversity when it comes to ornithofauna. The winter season sees the island welcome some northern species of wading birds and this is the only opportunity to see them in Serbia. Great War Island, surrounded by the Sava and Danube rivers, allows birds to stay all year round. The river routes mark the routes of bird migrations. In winter they remain unfrozen and are a refuge for unfavourable periods of the year. Great War Island has specific features within its ornithofauna. On the island one can see exceptional species in their natural habitat, including the white-tailed eagle, seven species of herons, more than 40 different species of duck, ronco from the Far North... In winter and in the nesting period one can see about 80 species, while the migratory period sees that number grow to more than 100 different species of bird. willow branches that one spots the walls of the Belgrade Fortress, Nebojsa Tower, the bridges, the riverbanks... From this perspective, surrounded by trees and the intense smell of the river, one will meet a familiar yet completely different Belgrade. You will become a hidden observer who literally stands at the confluence of two rivers.

8

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

RUDDY SHELL DRAKE AND CYPRESS FROM FLORIDA Great War Island it home to over a hundred species of birds that nest there, including some very rare species, such as the ruddy shell drake so often

PROTECTED AREA

Great War Island is a protected habitat and was declared an area of extraordinary natural features in 2005. It consists of two river islands, Great and Small War Island, and is located between the 1,172nd and 1,169th kilometre of the Danube course, with a protective belt of 50 metres of water area. The total area of this protected natural resource covers 211 hectares. The island itself includes designated security zones of the first, second and third degree. Lido Beach, which is in the third-degree protection zone, is a favourite summer resort for Belgraders. Public utility company Greenery Belgrade built stilted dwellings on pillars in the second-degree protection zone to accommodate their employees, as well as an amphitheatre for lectures. A pier for docking vessels was also built. Two bird observation sites were erected in the first degree protection zone. Additional saplings are planted within the regular programme of the island every year. Of the works planned within the ten-year management plan, a visitor centre, eco-villages, wells, solar panel installations and many other projects are yet to be built...

mentioned in Serbian epic poems and fairytales. During winter the island is home to hundreds of cormorants, which are one of the most endangered bird species in Europe. Other rare birds, such as the white-tailed eagle, black stork, garganey, duck brunette, little grebe, white heron etc. have found homes and shelter on the island. Naturalists and bird lovers can watch the fowls’ lives unfold on two arranged checkpoints with high watchtowers. The swamp cypress – Taxodium – was brought to the island’s dense forest from faraway Louisiana and Florida. This tree belongs to the deciduous conifer family, which is very rare for our region. The cypress has soft and delicate pale green needles that turn a beautiful yellow-red colour in autumn. This tree lives on average between five hundred and six hundred years, while there are even records of incredible life spans of 6,000 years! Look deeply into the micro world of Great War Island and the cover of a wondrous book of the life of nature opens up before you. We heard that one such story is being recorded by famous Serbian film director and author of metaphorical nature films, Peter Lalovic. Public company Greenery Belgrade, which takes care of Great War Island and protects it, gladly opens its door for visitors who want to take advantage of their expert guidance to learn more about this mysterious island in the heart of Belgrade. miLena mihaLjčić photographs: DaniLo PeterneK


Z

E

L

E

N

I

B

E

O

G

r

a

D

SKROVIŠTE GALIJA I PTICA Zeleno ostrvo na samom ušću Save u Dunav deo je neponovljivog pogleda na grad sa Beogradske tvrđave. U toj panorami vide se novobeogradski neboderi i stari Zemun sa kulom Gardoš, a taj gusto obrasli komad kopna na vodama dve reke prostor je gde nesmetano živi mnoštvo ptica, riba i bilja. Ta rečna ada je Veliko Ratno ostrvo – zaštićena oaza prirode usred urbanog prostora Beograda.

V

eliko ratno ostrvo nije tu od pamtiveka, ono je nastajalo postepeno i često menjalo oblik, a proces njegovog stvaranja i preoblikovanja traje i danas. Stručnjaci kažu da je izronilo iz vode u čudnom spletu prirodnih okolnosti – susretom šumadijskog grebena i Panonske nizije na mestu stapanja dve reke.

Laički rečeno, ostrvo su stvorili zaustavljeni peščani nanosi na samom ušću Save. Pojava ostrva prvi put je zabeležena u 16. veku, kada je ono bilo samo manji peščani sprud. Njegov najstariji likovni prikaz nalazi se na mapi mađarskog kartografa Lazara Deaka (oko 1514. godine). Kao što je menjalo oblik, menjalo je i ime: prvi

zabeleženi naziv je Dunavsko ostrvo, a zvali su ga i Ciganskim i Sirotinjskim ostrvom. Današnje ime dobilo je za vreme habzburške opsade Beograda 1717. godine. Čuveni vojskovođa Eugen Savojski odabrao je to mesto kao stratešku tačku naspram Beogradske tvrđave, koja je sa te strane bila otvorena i najranjivija. Od tada

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

9


Birdwatching hide on Great Galijas

ostrvo nije menjalo ime i redovno se pojavljivalo na svim kartama, planovima i drugim dokumentima, vojnim i civilnim.

KRALJEVSTVO PTICA

Na Ratnom ostrvu i oko njega žive 163 vrste ptica, svrstane u 46 familije i 16 redova. Tu se gnezdi 66 vrsta, od kojih su 43 stanarice, a 23 selice. Rezultati istraživanja pokazuju da ovaj prostor predstavlja tačku najvećeg biodiverziteta na teritoriji Beograda kada je reč o ornitofauni. U zimu neke severne vrste ptica močvarica tu zimuju, i to je jedina prilika da se sretnu u Srbiji. Veliko Ratno ostrvo, okruženo Savom i Dunavom, omogućava boravak ptica tokom cele godine. Rečni tokovi predstavljaju puteve kojim ptice migriraju. Zimi ostaju nezamrznuti i predstavljaju pribežište za boravak u nepovoljnom dobu godine. Veliko Ratno ostrvo specifično je i po sastavu ornitofaune. Tu se mogu videti izuzetne vrste u njihovom prirodnom staništu, među kojima orao belorepan, sedam vrsta čaplji, više od 40 vrsta različitih pataka, ronci sa dalekog severa... Zimi i tokom gnežđenja može se videti oko 80 vrsta, dok u doba seoba taj broj raste na više od 100 različitih vrsta ptica.

10

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

VELIKI I MALI GALIJAŠ Vojni istoričari i stratezi bi mogli da ispričaju mnoštvo zanimljivih priča o bitkama i ratnim dejstvima koja su se vodila sa ratnog ostrva i oko njega. O njegovom strateškom značaju za vojne operacije govore i njegovi današnji glavni toponimi – Veliki i Mali Galijaš. Momčilo Tomić, vodič „Zelenila Beograd“, koje upravlja današnjim zaštićenim prirodnim dobrom, kaže da su ti toponimi dobili ime po tome što su se baš tu, u rukavcima obraslim gustim zelenilom, skrivale i grupisale ratne galije i lađe. Pisani dokumenti i usmeno predanje govore o ratnom ostrvu kao važnoj raskrsnici trgovačkih puteva, naročito u 19. veku. Predanje pominje jednog odmetnutog turskog pašu, koji je na ratnom ostrvu otvorio svoju ličnu carinarnicu i naplaćivao poreze podjednako austrijskom i Turskom carstvu, a pominje se i njegov harem, sličan onom na Labudovom oknu, u blizini tvrđave ram. Danas se na Velikom Galijašu nalazi osmatračnica za ptice i, uz malo mašte, nije teško zamisliti kako su se u tom bujnom zelenilu pritajeno skrivale ratne lađe.

ZAŠTIĆENO PODRUČJE

Veliko Ratno ostrvo zaštićeno je 2005. godine i proglašeno za predeo izuzetnih prirodnih odlika. Sastoji se od dve rečne ade Velikog i Malog Ratnog ostrva, a smešteno je između 1172. i 1169. kilometra toka Dunava, sa zaštitnim pojasom od 50 m vodene površine. Ukupna površina zaštićenog prirodnog dobra iznosi 211 hektara. Na samom ostrvu postoji režim zaštite I, II i III stepena. Plaža Lido, koja je u režimu zaštite III stepena, svakog leta je omiljeno izletište Beograđana. „Zelenilo Beograd“ je u II zoni režima zaštite izgradilo sojenicu na stubovima za smeštaj svojih radnika i amfiteatar za predavanja. Izgrađen je i mol za pristajanje plovila . U I zoni režima zaštite urađene su dve osmatračnice za ptice. Po redovnom programu, ostrvo se svake godine pošumljava. Od radova koji su predviđeni desetogodišnjim planom upravljanja, trebalo bi izgraditi vizitorski centar, eko-selo, bunare, postaviti solarne kolektore ... POVRTARI PODVODNIH LIVADA Peščani sprud koji reka neprestano plavi odavno su otkrili zemunski i beogradski povrtari. Dunav na ratno ostrvo nanosi plodnu zemlju, a vode i vlage ima u izobilju. Hodajući stazama


ostrva, naići ćete na sojenice povrtara i velike bašte u kojima se gaje najrazličitije vrste povrća i cveća. Kažu da tu najbolje uspevaju mahunarke. Možda ste na beogradskim pijacama već kupovali pasulj sa ostrvskog peska a da to niste znali. Kažu i da je Veliko ratno ostrvo umelo da prehranjuje Beograd u ratnim i drugim oskudnim vremenima, pa iako to zvuči kao preterivanje, prostor plodnog dela ostrva je zaista veliki. Taj povrtarski deo nalazi se u tzv. zoni rekreacije, koja obuhvata delove unutrašnjosti ostrva. PRAŠUMA SA URBANIM POGLEDOM Neverovatno je da na jednom zaokruženom prostoru veličine većeg gradskog kvarta postoji toliko različitih pejzaža. Susret sa ratnim ostrvom počinje na lepoj peščanoj plaži Lido, potom se prolazi kroz ravnicu punu povrtnjaka i sojenica i livade koje mirišu na lekovito bilje, da biste se u jednom trenutku obreli u pravoj prašumi. Guste šume obrasle su još gušćim, isprepletanim puzavicama, šiblje i žbunje svuda su oko vas. Čuju se samo zvuci prirode. Bujna vegetacija je u neposrednoj vezi sa čestim

poplavama i obilnim podzemnim vodama, a u šumama dominiraju zajednice belih vrba pored kojih žive velika stabla crne topole, jasena i gloga, saznajemo od vodiča. Znate da je ostrvo opkoljeno gradom, ali grad se niti vidi niti čuje. Tek kada izađete na obalu i provirite kroz grane vrba, tada možete da vidite bedeme Beogradske tvrđave, kulu Nebojšu, mostove, priobalje... Iz te perspektive, okruženi drvećem i intenzivnim mirisom reke, vidite jedan poznati, pa ipak sasvim drugačiji Beograd. Postajete skriveni posmatrač koji doslovno stoji na ušću dve velike reke. UTVA ZLATOKRILA I ČEMPRES SA FLORIDE Na Velikom ratnom ostrvu gnezdi se više od stotinu vrsta ptica, među kojima su i neke veoma retke, kao, na primer, utva zlatokrila, tako često opevana u srpskim epskim pesmama i bajkama. Tokom zime na ostrvu živi na stotine kormorana, koji su jedna od najugroženijih vrsta ptica u Evropi. Svoj životni prostor i utočište na ostrvu našle su i druge retke ptice, kao što su orao belorepan, crna

roda, patka pupčanica, patka crnka, mali gnjurac, žuta čaplja... Ljubitelji ptica i prirodnjaci mogu da posmatraju njihov život sa visokih osmatračnica na dva uređena punkta . U guste ostrvske šume iz daleke Luizijane i Floride doselio se močvarni čempres – taksodijum. To drvo spada u za ovo podneblje retku vrstu listopadnih četinara. Čempres ima meke i nežne bledozelene iglice, koje u jesen dobiju prelepu žutocrvenu boju. Prosečno živi između petsto i šeststo godina, a zabeleženi su i slučajevi neverovatnog životnog veka od čak šest hiljada godina. Kada se zagledate u ostrvski mikrosvet, pred vama se otvaraju korice jedne čudesne knjige iz života prirode. Čuli smo da jednu takvu priču upravo snima naš proslavljeni filmski reditelj i autor metaforičnih filmova iz prirode Petar Lalović. „Zelenilo Beograd“, koje se stara i štiti Veliko ratno ostrvo, rado otvara vrata posetiocima koji žele da, uz stručno vođenje, upoznaju to tajanstveno mesto u srcu Beograda. m iLena m ihaLjčić fotografije: DaniLo PeterneK

The gardens of Great War Island

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

11


I’ve always been an optimist and my songs suit my nature. Moreover, I believe that words have their own very energetic radiance. It is not without sense that greetings between people, like good morning, good afternoon or salutations, exist since time immemorial. Those words have positive energy within them and it’s up to you whether you want to deal with positives or negatives in your life. I was always interested in that positive side of the world. 14

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest


I N TeR VIe W | MO M č I LO BA JAGIć B A JAGA

SONG AGAINST ALL

BAD LUCK

continued to work on a new album, before performing a strange concert on the river during the Boat Carnival. Belgrade loves to listen to Bajaga, recognising his essential positivism and trademark smile, singing his songs... And, as is required by sincere emotion, Bajaga gifts his city some verses; his songs depicting the flavour of the city in which they were created. And that fine emotion endures – as witnessed for more than thirty years... Determined by destiny or shaped by individual energies, our lives develop in different ways. What is it that determined your life path and shaped it just precisely the way it is? What are those choices, people, events etc.? - I think that music determined my life and virtually everything in it. I grew up in Zemun, in the Lower Town. The space between the Zemun high school and Hotel Yugoslavia was the area I grew up in. And it was there, in the part of town where New Belgrade and Zemun merge – where the first quay was built – that I actually learned to play the guitar. It was there that the kids of my generation came from various parts of New Belgrade to gather. I was not the only person to have played music there and later continued to be engaged in music professionally. One of the “musicians from the quay” was also Tadic, who plays with Vlatko Stefanovski. He later became a professor at Berkeley. I remember that I played blues and rock while he played classical music. So that part of my childhood, and somehow quickly my adulthood, was completely filled with music, playing the guitar, listening to records etc. I soon started playing with my first amateur bands, though virtually the first serious band in my career was Riblja Corba, when I was in the fourth year of high school. Just a year earlier I had been invited by Boban Petrovic to play in the group Zdravo, but my father thought I was too into music... There followed the legendary concert of Bijelo Dugme at the Hajduk Fountain and one of the support acts was that group called Zdravo. I know that it was not easy for me: the whole city, including kids from my school, went to that concert... The next offer came from Riblja Corba, which had already released the single Lutka s naslovne strane, and from then on everything somehow started to happen quickly.

M

omcilo Bajagic is among those people who it is simply impossible to address by their name and surname. The nickname Bajaga is of the same sort of sensibility with which the nation refers to Kusto, Nole, Brega... So, this year started with Bajaga’s sign. After his New Year concert, Bajaga and his Instructors of Positive Geography

From the first album, Positive Geography, and the first real gig of the Instructors of Positive Geography in Kulusic (Zagreb) on 12th April 1984: years pass with nervous steps… Are we happier, are we cleverer? - Sometimes we are more or less happy, but we are certainly not cleverer. For me, all those years in music passed incredibly quickly. Later I realised that I was probably among the musicians with the most live performances,

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

15


if you count both performances with Riblja Corba and with the Instructors. In the first ten years the Instructors had between 100 and 150 concerts a year, while Riblja Corba had around 200 concerts annually. All in all, that was around three or four thousand performances. When I started playing with Riblja Corba I was 17 years old and much has happened in the meantime. I recently went to SOKOJ (Serbian Music Authors Organisation) and when they listed my “experience” for me – all the songs I have written and all the gigs – I was surprised by the vastness of that number.

like it when words are used incorrectly. I don’t recall that I have spoken about that often in interviews, but if you look at my songs you will see that most of them have that positive energy, without mentioning the Song against all bad luck. We all spread a certain energy around ourselves and I sincerely try to ensure mine is positive. As the times are pretty bad, we need good energy even more. At least one real Good Morning for a Good Day or Good Morning for the beginning of life, but certainly a Good Morning regardless.

Everything you do has a positive, optimistic sign... The times in which we live often don’t agree with such beautiful emotions. How do you manage to keep them? To sing: Good morning, this above us is the sky... - Good Morning (Dobro Jutro) is a single from the album Four Seasons. The song was created during the worst time at the start of the wars of the ‘90s. In all of that I wanted to make a song that I would feel good hearing in the morning if it was played on the radio. And that year my son Marko was born and that song was an opportunity to show someone who had just entered the world what is up there, above us. I’ve always been an optimist and that song suits my nature. Moreover, I believe that words have their own very energetic radiance. It is not without sense that greetings between people, like good morning, good afternoon or salutations, exist since time immemorial. Those words have positive energy within them and it’s up to you whether you want to deal with positives or negatives in your life. I was always interested in the positive side of the world. And the words we have mentioned, and words in general, have much more strength for me than that which people ordinarily attach to them. I really don’t

Your new album is in the making. You have announced it in the style of “a new Belgrade organic optimism”. What can we expect and when? - Since October last year we have been working on a new album, though we didn’t stop our tour and have concerts in between in order for the band to be able to function. Though it was not the norm for me in the past, this time I have worked on one song at a time. So every song that I started is almost finished and could be released tomorrow, but we are missing some that I haven’t done yet. At this moment we are working on the fifth and sixth compositions. Four are completely finished and the new album will have around ten tracks. I hope we will manage to finish them all during the summer. The album’s release is planned for the end of autumn, but we are not rushing anywhere in any case.

16

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

Could we at least hear the names of some new songs? - The names don’t exist yet, but one song is interesting and is connected to your first question. I made a non-classic blues song. It reminded me of the time when I was learning to play the guitar, when I played the harmonica. I


dedicated this song to that period of my life and it will be called either ‘Zemun, Donji Grad’ (Lower Town) or ‘The Old road to Novi Sad’. I’m not sure which, but one of those two. In your song Tamara it is -26 degrees in Moscow. How cold was it in Belgrade during that New Year’s Eve and your concert? How did you bear it? - I can’t play with gloves on. I even tried the fingerless ones, but there’s no way. I simply don’t have a feeling and so I found it easier to, for instance, keep my hands in my pockets so that I can feel the strings when I start to play. New Year’s eve was really cold this year, but the concert was excellent, so it all kind of balances out. We’ve had at least five or six colder New Year’s concerts during our career. I remember one such night in Banja Luka. I think it was minus 15 or 16... It was really incredibly cold, just like on the Plaza in front of the Faculty of Philosophy during the time of the student protests. That was also a New Year’s eve gig, only during the daytime. We couldn’t tune our guitars at all, because the strings were so taut that they were always high. Over time you get used to all of that. Cold on stage is not a problem for me. The lights heat you up a bit; you move around a little, dress well and arm yourself with positive energy. Since the first major concert of the Instructors in Belgrade’s Dom Sindikata, you have played at the Fairgrounds, Tasmajden Park... you have dedicated many songs to Belgrade. How important is Belgrade for you as inspiration? How much does it contribute to your creative energy? - Belgrade is located on a site where the influences of east, west, north and south collide. It is a city of incredible openness. I have lived in its various parts – Zemun, Dorcol and now on Topcider Hill... Many of my songs

are linked to the places where they were created. I also made a special album dedicated to Belgrade, The rose winds of Belgrade, which had only one new song, Zindan kapija, while we chose the rest of the songs written up to that point that mentioned Belgrade. That album was a limited edition and included a map of Belgrade marked with the places mentioned in the songs. Belgrade is simply an inspirational city. Many are wondering which direction you measured those 442 kilometres to Belgrade from? - I didn’t measure it from anywhere; pure imagination. From the technical side, I needed something that rhymed. From the geographical side, to still be a decent enough distance away from Belgrade for every kilometre to be filled with hope, anticipation... It turns out that Zagreb, Skopje, Sarajevo etc. are roughly a similar distance from Belgrade... In essence, it’s a long way from home and is nice to sing... While writing texts for the new album I tried to choose words according to their sound quality, musicality. I have become a bit spoiled and now I’m trying to have vowels in choruses; I’m seeking synonyms. At one point I also wanted this album to be called How Words Sound, but I don’t suppose it would succeed – not commercial enough. And what’s Belgrade like as a place to live? - Just made to measure for me. I have visited almost every continent. A city bigger than Belgrade would certainly bother me, while a smaller one wouldn’t be big enough. Dragana marković

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

17


I N T e R V J u

|

M O M č I L O

B A J A G I ć

B A J A G A

PESMA PROTIV SVIH MALERA Uvek sam bio optimista, moje pesme su u skladu sa mojom prirodom. Verujem da reči imaju neko svoje jako energetsko zračenje. Nisu bez smisla pozdravi koji odvajkada postoje među ljudima: dobro jutro, dobar dan, ili živ bio. Te reči same po sebi imaju pozitivnu energiju, a vaš je izbor da li ćete u životu da se bavite pozitivnim ili negativnim. Mene je uvek zanimala ta pozitivna strana sveta.

M

omčilo Bajagić spada u red onih ljudi koje jednostavno teško da možete osloviti imenom i prezimenom. Nadimak Bajaga je onog istog senzibiliteta s kojim nacija tepa Kusti, Noletu, Bregi... Dakle, ova godina je krenula sa Bajaginim predznakom. Posle novogodišnjeg koncerta, Bajaga je sa svojim „Instruktorima pozitivne geografije“ nastavio rad na novom albumu, a onda je usledio neobičan koncert na reci tokom Karnevala brodova. Beograd voli da sluša Bajagu, prepoznaje njegov suštinski pozitivizam, osmeh kao zaštitni znak, pevuši njegove pesme... A Bajaga, onako kako to iskrena emocija nalaže – svom gradu pokloni poneki stih, svojoj pesmi aromu grada u kome je nastala. I ta fina emocija traje – evo već više od trideset godina...

18

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

Sudbinom određeni ili pojedinačnim energijama oblikovani, naši životi protiču na različite načine. Šta je to što je odredilo Vaš život, što ga je učinilo baš ovakvim kakav jeste? Koji su to izbori, ljudi, događaji..? - Mislim da je muzika odredila moj život. Praktično, sve u njemu. Odrastao sam u Zemunu, u Donjem gradu. Taj potez između Zemunske gimnazije i Hotela Jugoslavija bio je prostor mog odrastanja. I tu, naročito u delu gde se spajaju Novi Beograd i Zemun, gde je postavljen prvi kej, tu sam, u stvari, naučio da sviram gitaru. Tu su se inače skupljali klinci moje generacije iz različitih krajeva Novog Beograda. Ja nisam bio jedini od onih koji su tu svirali a koji su kasnije nastavili profesionalno da se bave muzikom. Jedan od „muzičara sa keja“ je i Tadić, koji svira sa Vlatkom Stefanovskim. On je kasnije postao profesor na Berkliju. Sećam se da sam ja svirao bluz i rok, a on klasičnu muziku. Tako je taj deo mog detinjstva,


a nekako ubrzo i odrastanja, bio ispunjen muzikom, sviranjem gitare, slušanjem ploča... ubrzo sam krenuo sa prvim amaterskim bendovima, mada je praktično prvi ozbiljan bend u mojoj karijeri bio „Riblja čorba“, tada sam bio već četvrta godina gimnazije. Samo godinu dana ranije pozvao me Boban Petrović da sviram u grupi „Zdravo“, ali je mom ćaletu bilo malo dosta muzike... usledio je legendarni koncert „Bijelog dugmeta“ kod Hajdučke česme, a jedna od predgrupa bila je upravo grupa „Zdravo“. Znam da mi nije bilo lako, na taj koncert je došao čitav grad, moja škola... Naredna ponuda stigla je od „Riblje čorbe“, koja je već imala singl. „Lutka s naslovne strane”. I od tada je sve nekako ubrzano počelo da se dešava.

u ovom trenutku radimo petu i šestu kompoziciju, četiri su kompletno gotove, a na novom albumu će ih biti desetak. Nadam se da čemo stići tokom leta sve da ih završimo, album planiram za kraj jeseni, ali u svakom slučaju nigde ne žurim.

Od prvog albuma „Pozitivna geografija” i prve prave svirke „Instruktora pozitivne geografije“ u Kulušiću (Zagreb) 12. aprila 1984: godine prolaze nervoznim korakom… Jesmo li sretniji, jesmo l’ pametniji..? - Ponekad budemo manje ili više srećni, a pametniji nismo sigurno. Meni su sve te godine u muzici prošle neverovatno brzo. Kasnije sam shvatio da sam verovatno jedan od muzičara koji ima najviše živih nastupa, ako računam nastupe sa „Ribljom čorbom“ i „Instruktorima“. Prvih desetak godina „Instruktori“ su imali između 100 i 150 koncerata godišnje, a „čorba“ i oko 200. Sve zajedno tu je tri, četiri hiljade nastupa. Kada sam počeo da sviram u „čorbi“ imao sam 17 godina. Mnogo se šta u međuvremenu dogodilo. Nedavno sam išao u SOKOJ, i kada su mi izlistali taj moj „staž“, sve pesme koje sam napisao, svirke – iznenadio sam se koliko je taj broj pozamašan.

U Vašoj pesmi Tamara Moskva je na minus 26. Koliki je beše bio minus u Beogradu tokom novogodišnje noći i Vašeg koncerta? Kako ste izdržali? - Ne mogu da sviram sa rukavicama. Probao sam čak i one sa otkrivenim prstima, ali nikako. Jednostavno nemam osećaj, a onda mi je lakše da, recimo, držim ruke u džepovima, pa kad krenem da sviram, osetim žicu. Novogodišnja noć je bila stvarno hladna ove godine, ali je koncert bio odličan, pa se sve to nekako poravnalo. Imali smo bar pet, šest, hladnijih novih godina u karijeri. Sećam se jedne u Banjaluci, mislim da je bilo minus 15, 16... Stvarno je bilo neviđeno hladno i na Platou ispred Filozofskog fakulteta u vreme studentskih protesta, isto novogodišnja svirka, samo dnevna, nismo mogli da naštimujemo gitare, jer su se žice toliko stegle da su stalno bile visoke. S vremenom se naviknemo na sve to. Meni na bini hladnoća nije problem. Malo nas ugreju reflektori, malo se krećemo, dobro se obučemo, i naoružamo pozitivnom energijom.

Sve što radite ima predznak pozitivnog, optimističnog… Vremena u kojima živimo često nisu baš naklonjena tim lepim emocijama. Kako uspevate da ih zadržite? Da otpevate: Dobro jutro, ovo iznad nas je nebo… - Dobro jutro je singl sa albuma Četiri godišnja doba. Pesma je nastala u ono najgore vreme početka ratova, devedesetih. Poželeo sam tada da napravim neku pesmu koja bi meni prijala da je čujem ujutru, da je neko pusti na radiju. A te godine mi se rodio sin Marko, i ta pesma bila je prilika da nekom ko je tek došao na svet pokažem i šta je gore, iznad nas. uvek sam bio optimista, ta pesma je u skladu sa mojom prirodom. Verujem da reči imaju neko svoje jako energetsko zračenje. Nisu bez smisla pozdravi koji odvajkada postoje među ljudima: dobro jutro, dobar dan, ili živ bio. Te reči same po sebi imaju pozitivnu energiju, a vaš je izbor da li žete u životu da se bavite pozitivnim ili negativnim. Mene je uvek zanimala ta pozitivna strana sveta. A reči koje smo pomenuli, i reči uopšte, za mene imaju mnogo veću snagu od one koju im ljudi pridaju. Zaista ne volim kada se reči na pogrešan način koriste. Ne sećam se da sam o tome često govorio u intervjuima, ali ako pogledate moje pesme, videćete da je većina sa tom dobrom energijom, da ne pominjemo Pesmu protiv svih malera. Svi mi izvesnu energiju širimo oko sebe, a ja se iskreno trudim da moja bude dobra. Kako su vremena prilično loša, dobra energija nam je još potrebnija. Bar jedno pravo Dobro jutro za Dobar dan, ili Dobro jutro za početak života, ali svakako je Dobro jutro. U pripremi je novi album. Najavljujete ga u stilu „novog beogradskog organskog optimizam“. Šta i kada očekujemo? - Od oktobra prošle godine radimo na novom albumu, s tim što nismo prekidali turneju, imamo i koncerte između da bi bend mogao da funkcioniše. Mada mi to ranije nije bio običaj, ovog puta sam radio pesmu po pesmu. Tako je svaka pesma koju sam započeo praktično gotova, može da se objavi sutra, ali mi nedostaju još neke koje nisam uradio.

Možemo li da čujemo bar naziv neke nove pesme? - Imena još ne postoje, ali je jedna pesma zanimljiva i u vezi je sa vašim prvim pitanjem. Napravio sam jedan neklasičan bluz, dvanaesticu. Podsetio me na vreme kada sam učio da sviram gitaru, a tada sam svirao i usnu harmoniku. Pesmu sam posvetio tom dobu života, a ona će se zvati ili Zemun, Donji grad ili Stari put za Novi Sad... Nisam siguran, ali jedan od ta dva naziva...

Od prvog većeg koncerta „Instruktora“ u Domu sindikata, svirali ste na Sajmu, Tašu… Mnoge pesme posvetili ste Beogradu. Koliko je Beograd bitan za Vas kao inspiracija? Koliko Vam dodaje tu energiju kreativnosti? - Beograd je na mestu na kome se mešaju uticaji istoka, zapada, severa i juga. To je grad neverovatne otvorenosti. Živeo sam u njegovim različitim delovima, Zemunu, Dorćolu, sada na Topčiderskom brdu... Mnoge moje pesme povezane su sa mestima na kojima su nastajale. Napravio sam i poseban album posvećen Beogradu: Ruže vetrova Beograda, gde je bila samo jedna nova pesma Zindan kapija, a izabrali smo sve pesme u kojima pominjem Beograd napisane do tada. To izdanje imalo je ograničen tiraž, a u njemu je bila i karta Beograda, sa označenim mestima koja se pominju u pesmama. Beograd je jednostavno inspirativan grad. Mnogi se pitaju iz kog pravca ste odmerili onih 442 do Beograda? - Nisam odmerio niotkud, čista mašta. Sa tehničke strane mi je bilo potrebno nešto što se rimuje. Sa geografske, da to bude ipak pristojno daleko od Beograda da svaki kilometar ispuni nadom, iščekivanjem... Potrefilo se da su otprilike na sličnoj kilometraži od Beograda Zagreb, Skoplje, Sarajevo... u suštini, mnogo kilometara do kuće, a lepo se peva... Pišući tekstove za novi album trudio sam se da reči biram i po zvučnosti, pevljivosti. Malo sam postao razmažen, sada pokušavam da imam samoglasnike na refrenu, tražim sinonime. u jednom trenutku sam hteo i da se taj album zove Kako zvuče reči, ali pretpostavljam da neće proći, nije dovoljno komercijalno. A kakav je Beograd kao mesto življenja? - Taman po mojoj meri. Obišao sam skoro sve kontinente. Veći grad od Beograda bi mi samo smetao, a manji mi ne bi bio dovoljan. Dragana marković

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

19


L i t e r a r y

G u i d e

“It is my wish to bring to this sad world, packed with dark portents, as much serenity, joyous hope, blue fairytales and a cart packed to the rafters with tumbling, empty and endearing lies. And believe me, I tell lies the least. Only when I open my mouth...� so said of himself Branko Copic, the most popular writer of the former Communist Yugoslavia.

22

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

t h r o u G h

B e L G r a d e


B

R

A

N

K

O

Ć

O

P

I

Ć

GARDNER IN THE FLOWER GARDEN OF CHILDHOOD & FAIRYTALES

T

he modest dowry that Lika-native Sofia Novakovic brought to the home of her husband Vida included a glass adorned with a portrait of poet Branko Radicevic that read: “Full heart full glass, let live all that’s ours”. When the Copics bore a firstborn son he received the name Branko, while fate’s desire was that he himself become a poet. He was born in the village of Hashani below Mount Grmec (Bosnia) at the end of the first year of the First World War. In the hope that Austria would collapse before he was recruited by the army, Branko’s grandfather, Rade, only reported his grandson’s birth on 1st January 1915. The specific lyrical humour that would later characterise his writing was formed in an environment where immigrants from Lika, like his grandfather and mother, brought their “irrepressible cheerfulness and humour of life” and mixed it with the harsh reality of Krajina country’s “scarcity and stone”. He gained his tendency for narration from the grandfather he grew up alongside and whose stories he “swallowed”. And that the fact that he started writing was not without influence from the fact that an uncle of his mother, who had even arrived in America, wrote humorous songs against Austria, which were secretly copied, transferred and read. When little Branko learned to write he copied them himself and imagined he had written them himself. road oF CeMeNted BooKS Branko Copic spent more than half of his life in Belgrade. He arrived in the city in 1936 to begin his studies at the Faculty of Philosophy and only left Belgrade during the period of World War II. He returned just a few days before the city was finally liberated and remained until his tragic death in 1984. During that time he became one of Yugoslavia’s most popular writers. “If I lined up the 1.2 million copies of books I have published during these fifBranko Ćopić, Miroslav and Bela Krleža and Skender Kulenović, 1970

teen years,” he began in one interview, “placing three copies per metre from Belgrade to Zagreb, I could walk the entire route stepping only on my own works.” With the works he would go on to author over the next twenty years and see published during his lifetime, he would have been able to walk on his works far beyond the borders of the then Yugoslavia. The fact that he was a children’s writer and humorist further contributed to his popularity. A great number of the books he wrote for children – novels, collections of short stories and poem – were an integral part of the upbringing of many generations of youngsters. The tragic side of the war in which he participated inspired him to write some of his finest and most moving poems. On the other hand, in his novels, short stories and the one theatre comedy he authored, he approached the theme of the war with humour. Writer oF ruraL aNthoLoGieS After he overcame the initial fear of school, he discovered the world of books. His education took its own course, though there had been tears shed for his home village, his taking flight from boarding school and expulsion from school. He graduated from high school in Bihac, began the teacher training college in Banja Luka, continued briefly in Sarajevo and completed those studies in Karlovac. Finally, instead of becoming a teacher, at the urging of his friends, he decided to continue his education in Belgrade. His first short prose composition was published in youth magazine Venac in 1928 while he was in the fourth year of high school. Eight years later, Friday 8th May 1936 was to be a date he would remember well as the day he “finally entered literature” when Politika published his story “Smrtno ruvo Soje Čubrilove”. During the four years of his studies, Politika published as many as 125 of his stories, “village tales”, as the editor called them. He lived in a student dormitory and lived exclusively from the fees he earned from writing. His first collection was soon published and was immediately well received by critics.

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

23


L i t e r a r y

G u i d e

t h r o u G h

B e L G r a d e

Part of Ćopić’s legacy at the Serbian Academy of Arts & Sciences Significant literary awards then followed. That was how he became known as one of the most significant young, and soon it would unfold, pre-war writers. FiGhter oF the LiBeratioN War He wrote throughout the war, in which he was one of the first to enlist as a partisan. He worked largely in the “cultural and educational sector” and was a commissioner. At one point a rumour spread in Krajina that he had been killed, but luckily he survived. Just before liberation he received word from the Chief of Staff of the People’s Liberation Army to go to Belgrade to form an editorial office of the central Yugoslav newspaper for youngsters. The capital had yet to be freed, but preparations had already begun for the first issue of Pionira, of which he would be the long-time editor in chief. He later became the editor of another children’s newspaper, Zmaj, which paid homage to the memory of the greatest Serbian children’s poet, Jovan Ćopić’s correspondences with Ivo Andrić from Bled, 1946

24

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

Jovanovic Zmaj. Copic describing writing for children as: “the most beautiful job, the best entertainment and the most pleasant holiday. When I finish a children’s book I feel as happy and cheerful as if I were returning from some great May ceremony.” iN SearCh oF doN QuiXote “It is my wish,” he said on one occasion, “to bring to this sad world, packed with dark portents, as much serenity, joyous hope, blue fairytales and a cart packed to the rafters with tumbling, empty and endearing lies. And believe me, I tell lies the least. Only when I open my mouth...” The wise Isidora Sekulic was among the first to recognize his exceptional talent and suggested him for the then newly established Milan Rakic Prize, which he duly won in 1939. He also received some advice from here that he wouldn’t forget: to look deeper into the character of our people and find some kind of Yugoslav Don Quixote. Cervantes’ hero was well known to Copic because it had been one of the first books he had read. He probably came closest in his quest to find such a knight with a gloomy character when he revealed to readers of his short stories characters who were fighters of the national-liberation struggle: legendary machine gunner Nikoletina Bursac and his other co-comrades Jovica Jez and Sancho Pancho. When he received the Zmaj Prize in 1971 he spoke of Zmaj’s garden of childhood and fairytales and admitted that “the discerning jury uncovered one of my few well-kept secrets: that I, in fact, in my best moments, write fairytales; fairytales for children, fathers, grandfathers and grandmothers, young people and warriors. Dreamt and unfinished fairytales, born in the silence of the old man of Trisina’s mill and matured and hardened in the creative rage of war and revolution. I feel, through my own experience, that the fairytale is a powerful and badly needed weapon that one takes up in childhood and never again releases from the hand. A resplendent weapon, a fragile weapon, a slightly ridiculous and rusting weapon of the noble warrior Don Quixote...” In another


letter to his childhood friend and fellow writer Zija Dizdarevic, who was murdered in 1942 in the Jasenovac concentration camp, he discovered – after enduring the dark foreboding that possessed him – the he was in fact himself Don Quixote: “... goodbye, my dear. Perhaps someone is amused by my antique garb, ancestral spear and feeble beast, which does not promise God knows what kind of race. Ride, what can you do...” MeMoriaL to BraNKo On the second floor of the Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences, of which he became a regular member in 1968, is the Copic memorial room. It contains items that surrounded him during the last years of his life and which have kept his memory alive. In accordance with the wish of his widow, the Branko Copic Foundation was established in 1989 and each year it presents a major prize for fiction and poetry to contemporary Serbian writers and poets. The Academy inherited all of their property, which is why the building of the Academy at 35 Knez Mihailova Street now houses a library of about 4,000 books and several portraits of Copic painted by artists Pedja Milosavljevic, Safet Zec, Lazar Vujaklije et al. The mortal remains of Branko Copic were buried in the Belgrade New Cemetery’s section for worthy citizens on 29th March 1984 in the rosarium, dome 8. Three days earlier he had leapt to infinity on the banks of the Sava from the bridge that is now named after poet Branko Radicevic and under which he had spent his first night in Belgrade 48 years earlier when he arrived in the city to study. uNder the ShadoW oF Fear Copic’s suicide came as a great surprise to many. A lot of people have sought an answer to the question of why he killed himself in feelings of persecution and disappointment of this once enthusiastic youth, member of the communist youth alliance, then war veteran and writer who had a “deficiency” to see and desire “to express everything he saw” about the post-war development and the new government. When in 1950 he wrote and published his satirical “Heretical story” he was accused personally by the leader of the revolution and the president of the then recently formed state, Josip Broz Tito. The accusation was that he “knowingly or unknowingly, became an instrument in the hands of the reactionary, and indirectly in the hands of the Soviet Informbiro...” in the hour of conflict with the powerful Soviet Union, this was very serious. He was followed and wiretapped for more than a decade and a half, under the watchful eyes and ears of party organs and government agencies. And even under those difficult circumstances he tried to act as an honest and conscientious writer who needed to write in such a way that he wouldn’t feel ashamed of his works even over 50 years. He left behind his parting message to life in a metal “Pelican” box that was discovered in his desk: “He was himself to blame for his death. Many good

friends took him out of the shit, but it did not help. That was Hector, Ambassador of Mexico, who is now in Turkey, and Selim Numic and Ratko Novakovic and Cica, God killed him for God’s sake! And his many readers, but nothing helped. Help her to survive this shame and dishonour of mine, if that is at all possible. Goodbye beautiful and terrible life! March, 1984! Branko Copic”. Perhaps the closest answer to the question of why Branko Copic killed himself was offered by his friend Borislav Mihajlovic Mihiz, who offered the questioning answer: “Is the mysterious death of Branko Copic the riddle of his life?” Branko once admitted the artistry of his friend in discovering the truth about him, saying: “Mihiz is right – through humour I treated both mine and other people’s wounds, saving the man and mourning over him.” JoVo ANĐIĆ We offer thanks to the Branko Copic Foundation, SANU Archives and Photo Archives for access to photographs and documents

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

25


K N J i Ž e V N i

V o d i Č

B

K

R

A

N

O

K r o Z

Ć

O

B e o G r a d

P

I

Ć

Great friendship: Desanka Maksimović and Branko Ćopić

BAŠTOVAN U CVETNOM VRTU DETINJSTVA I BAJKI „Želja mi je da u ovaj tužni svijet, nabijen mračnim slutnjama, unesem što više vedrine, smiješka, nada nja, plavih čarapa-varala, i puna puncata kola strmoglavih i pustih dragih kola lagarija, a vjerujte, ipak ja ponajmanje lažem. Jedino kad zinem…“ govorio je o sebi Branko Ćopić, najpopularniji pisac stare, komunističke Jugoslavije.

U

skromnom mirazu koji je Ličanka Sofija Novaković donela u dom svoga muža Vida bila je i čaša sa naslikanim likom pesnika Branka Radičevića, na kojoj je pisalo: „Puna srce pune čaše, neka živi što je naše.“ Kada se Ćopićima rodio sin prvenac dobio je ime Branko, a sudbina je htela da i sam postao pesnik. Rodio se u Hašanima, ispod Grmeča, krajem godine u kojoj je počeo Prvi svetski rat. Nadajući se da će dok on dospe za regrutaciju Austrija propasti, njegov deda Rade je unukovo rođenje prijavio tek prvog januara naredne, 1915. godine. Specifični lirski humor, koji je kasnije odlikovao njegovo književno delo, formirao se u sredini u koju su doseljenici iz Like, poput njegovog dede i majke, doneli „neuništivu životnu vedrinu i humor“, što su se izmešali s grubom stvarnošću „škrte i kamenite“ krajiške zemlje.

26

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

Sklonost pripovedanju stekao je od deda Rada, uz kojeg je odrastao, čije je priče „gutao“. A na to da počne da piše nije bila bez uticaja i činjenica što je jedan ujak njegove majke, koji je stigao i do Amerike, pisao humorističke pesme protiv Austrije, koje su se krišom prepisivale, prenosile i čitale. Kada je mali Branko naučio da piše, i on ih je prepisivao i zamišljao kako ih sam piše. Put PoPLoČaN KNJiGaMa Branko Ćopić je više od polovine svog života proveo u Beogradu. Stigao je u grad 1936. godine, da bi se upisao na Filozofski fakultet, a napustio ga je samo u vreme Drugog svetskog rata. Vratio se nekoliko dana pre nego što je Beograd konačno oslobođen i ostao u njemu sve do svoje tragične smrti, 1984. godine.


Postao je jedan od najpopularnijih jugoslovenskih pisaca. „Kad bih poređao 1.200.000 primeraka knjiga koliko sam štampao za ovih petnaest godina“, rekao je u jednom intervjuu, „po tri na svaki metar od Beograda do Zagreba, mogao bih taj put da prevalim koračajući samo po svojim djelima.“ Ono što je napisao tokom narednih dvadeset osam godina i što je objavljeno za njegovog života, omogućilo bi mu da korača daleko van granica ondašnje Jugoslavije. Njegovoj popularnosti doprinelo je to što je bio i dečiji pisac i humorista. Veliki broj knjiga koje je napisao za decu, romana, zbirki priča i pesama – bio je neizostavni deo odrastanja brojnim generacijama mladih. Tragična strana rata, u kojem je učestvovao, inspirisala ga je da napiše neke od svojih najlepših i najpotresnijih pesama. S druge strane, u ro manima, pripovetkama i jedinoj svojoj pozorišnoj komediji temi rata pristupao je sa dozom humora. PiSaC SeoSKih PriPoVedaKa Kada je savladao početni strah od škole, otkrio je svet knjiga. Njegovo školovanje išlo je svojim tokom iako je bilo i suza za rodnim selom i bekstva iz internata i isključivanja iz škola. Završio je gimnaziju u Bihaću, učiteljsku školu započeo u Banjaluci, nakratko nastavio u Sarajevu, a završio u Karlovcu. Najzad je, umesto da bude učitelj, na nagovor prijatelja, odlučio da nastavi školovanje i ode na studije u Beograd. Prvi kratki prozni sastav objavljen mu je u omladinskom časopisu Venac, 1928.godine, u četvrtom razredu gimnazije. Osam godina kasnije, u petak 8. maja 1936, dobro je upamtio taj datum, jer je shvatio da je to bio dan kada je „konačno ušao u literaturu“, Politika je objavila njegovu priču „Smrtno ruvo Soje Čubrilove“. Tokom četiri godine studija Politika je objavila čak 125 njegovih priča, „seoskih pripovedaka“, kako ih je urednik nazivao. Stanovao je u studentskom domu i živeo isključivo od honorara koje je dobijao od pisanja. Ubrzo su mu objavljene prve zbirke, koje je kritika najpre odlično prihvatila, a potom su sledile značajne kniževne nagrade. Tako je postao poznat kao jedan od značajnijih mladih, a ubrzo će se ispostaviti, predratnih pisaca.

BoraC oSLoBodiLaČKoG rata Pisao je sve vreme rata, u koji je kao partizan među prvima otišao. Radio je uglavnom na „kulturno-prosvjetnom sektoru“ i bio komesar. U jednom trenutku se u Krajini proneo glas da je poginuo, ali je on srećom ostao živ. Neposredno pred oslobođenje stigao mu je poziv iz Glavnog štaba Narodnooslobodilačke vojske da ode u Beograd i formira redakciju centralnog jugoslovenskog lista za najmlađe. Još prestonica nije ni oslobođena, a već su počele pripreme za prvi broj Pionira, u kojem je bio dugogodišnji glavni urednik. Kasnije je bio urednik još jednog dečijeg lista, Zmaja, koji je čuvao uspomenu na najvećeg srpskog dečijeg pesnika Jovana Jovanovića. Ćopić je govorio da je pisanje za djecu za njega „najljepši posao, najprijatnija zabava i najbolji odmor. Kad završim jednu knjigu za djecu, ja se osjećam tako veseo i raspoložen kao da se vraćam s neke velike majske svečanosti“. u PotraZi Za doN KihotoM „…Želja mi je, govorio je jednom prilikom, da u ovaj tužni svijet, nabijen mračnim slutnjama, unesem što više vedrine, smiješka, nadanja, plavih čarapa-varala, i puna puncata kola strmoglavih i pustih dragih kola lagarija, a vjerujte, ipak ja ponajmanje lažem. Jedino kad zinem…“ Mudra Isidora Sekulić među prvima je prepoznala njegov izuzetni talenat i predložila ga za tek ustanovljenu nagradu „Milan Rakić“, koju je i dobio 1939. godine. Od nje je dobio i savet koji nije zaboravio – da pogleda dublje u likove naših ljudi i u njima pronađe nekog našeg Don Kihota. Servantesov junak bio je dobro poznat Ćopiću, jer je to bila jedna od prvih knjiga koju je pročitao. U traganju za vitezom tužnog lika možda je najbliži bio kada je čitaocima, u svojim pripovetkama, otkrio likove

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

27


K N J i Ž e V N i

V o d i Č

K r o Z

B e o G r a d

oko 4.000 knjiga i nekoliko Ćopićevih portreta, slike Peđe Milosavljevića, Safeta Zeca, Lazara Vujaklije... Posmrtni ostaci Branka Ćopića sahranjeni su na Novom groblju, u Aleji zaslužnih građana, 29. marta 1984. godine, u rozarijumu, kalota 8. Tri dana ranije otišao je u večnost skokom na savsku obalu sa mosta pod kojim je pre 48 godina proveo prvu noć došavši na studije u Beograd.

boraca iz Narodnooslobodilačke borbe, legendarnog mitraljesca Nikoletinu Bursaća, a u njegovom drugu i saborcu Jovici Ježu Sanča Pansu. Kada je primao „Zmajevu nagradu“ 1971. godine, govorio je o Zmajevom vrtu detinjstva i bajki i priznao da je „pronicljivi žiri otkrio jednu od nekoliko mojih dobro čuvanih tajni, da ja, u stvari, u najboljim svojim trenucima, pišem bajke. Bajke za decu, za očeve, dede i babe, omladince i ratnike. Prosanjane i nedosanjane bajke, rođene u tišini deda Trišinog mlina, a stasale i kaljene u stvaralačkom tutnju rata i revolucije. Osećam po vlastitom iskustvu da je bajka jedno moćno i preko potrebno oružje koje se uzme još u detinjstvu i više ne ispušta iz ruke. Blistavo oružje, krhko oružje, pomalo smešno i rđavo oružje plemenitog ratnika Don Kihota…“ U pismu svom drugu iz mladosti književniku Ziji Dizdareviću, ubijenom 1942. godine u logoru u Jasenovcu, posle crnih slutnji koje su ga obuzimale, otkriva da je Don Kihot zapravo on sam: ...Zbogom, dragi moj. Možda je nekom smiješna moja starinska odora, pradjedovsko koplje i ubogo kljuse, koje ne obećava bogzna kakvu trku. Jah, šta ćeš ...“ SPoMeN Na BraNKa Na drugom spratu zgrade Srpske akademije nauka i umetnosti, čiji je redovni član postao 1968. godine, nalazi se Ćopićeva spomen-soba. U njoj su stvari koje su ga okruživale tokom poslednjih godina života, a koje čuvaju uspomenu na njega. Voljom njegove supruge, 1989. godine osnovana je Zadužbina Branka Ćopića, koja svake godine savremenim srpskim piscima i pesnicima dodeljuje veliku nagradu za prozu i poeziju. Akademija je nasledila svu njihovu imovinu, pa je tako u zgradu Akademije u Knez Mihailovu ulicu 35 preneta biblioteka od

28

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

Pod SeNKoM Straha Za mnoge je Ćopićevo samoubistvo bilo veliko iznenađenje. Odgovor na pitanje zašto se ubio mnogi su tražili u osećaju progonjenosti razočaranog, nekada zanesenog omladinca, skojevca, potom prvoborca i pisca koji je imao „nedostatak“ da vidi i voleo „da kaže sve što vidi“ o posleratnom razvoju i novoj vlasti. Kada je 1950. godine ispisao i objavio satiričnu „Jeretičku priču“, optužio ga je i sam vođa revolucije i predsednik tek formirane države Josip Broz Tito. Optužba da je „svjesno ili nesvjesno, postao instrument u rukama reakcije, a indirektno i u rukama Informbiroa…“ u času sukoba sa moćnim SSSR bila je i te kako ozbiljna. Više od jedne i po decenije bio je praćen i prisluškivan, budnim okom i uvom partijskih organa i državnih službi. I u tim teškim okolnostima pokušavao je da se ponaša kao častan i savestan pisac, koji treba da piše tako da ga ni posle pedeset godina ne bude sramota od napisanog. Od života se oprostio porukom koju je ostavio u metalnoj „Pelikan“ kutiji pronađenoj u njegovom radnom stolu: „Sam je kriv za svoju smrt. Vadili su ga iz govana mnogi dobri drugovi, pa nije pomoglo. Bio je to Hektor, ambasador Meksika, sada je u Turskoj, i Selim Numić, i Ratko Novaković, i Cica, bog je ubio dabogda! i njegovi brojni čitaoci, ali ništa nije pomoglo. Pomozite joj da preživi ovu moju bruku i sramotu, ako je ikako moguće. Zbogom lijepi i strašni živote! Mart mjesec, 1984. godine! Branko Ćopić.“ Možda je najbliži odgovoru na pitanje zašto se Branko Ćopić ubio dao njegov prijatelj Borisav Mihajlović Mihiz, odgovorajući pitanjem „Da li je zagonetka smrti Branka Ćopića odgonetka njegovog života?“ Umešnost svog prijatelja u otkrivanju istina o njemu Branko je priznao jednom prilikom ranije govoreći: „Ima pravo Mihiz – humorom sam liječio i svoje i tuđe rane, spasavao čovjeka i tugovao nad njim.“ JoVo ANĐIĆ Zahvaljujemo Zadužbini Branka Ćopića, Arhivu i Fototeci SANU za ustupljene fotografije i dokumente.


P o r t r a i t s | 1 st Q u e e n o f Y u g o s l av i a , M a r i j a K a r a đ o r đ e v i ć

RETURN TO SERBIA

BelGuest Proleće | SPring 2011

29


Mid-June saw both Belgrade and London mark the 50th anniversary of the death of the first Yugoslav queen, Maria of Yugoslavia (1900-1961). First of all, the small stage of Zemun’s Madlenianum Opera & Theatre welcomed the start of Dragan Boskovic’s monodrama “The Return of Queen Maria of Yugoslavia”, which was a guest play for several months. Then Belgrade’s White Palace hosted the exhibition “Fifty years since the death of Queen Maria” and on 22nd June Dedinje’s royal chapel of Saint Andrej the First-Called held a memorial service for the repose of the late queen’s soul. She returned to Serbia through memories and prayers after an absence of more than 70 years and more than six decades of concealment.

With mother, Queen Maria

T

he fates of the wives of serbian rulers were often worthy of ancient tragedies and the wife of King alexander Karadjordjevic was no exception: a great-granddaughter of Queen victoria of england, daughter of King ferdinand Hohenzollern and Queen Marie of romania, until her marriage, the young Maria held the title of Princess of great Britain and northern ireland. at 22 she became the Queen consort of the serbs, croats and slovenes, and later Yugoslavia, and by 34 she was left a widow with three sons; she fled the country aged 38 and was 47 when the Yugoslav communist government declared her a criminal and violator of human rights. she died in exile at the age of 61. in spite of all of this, the nation remembered her for her charitable deeds, endowments, kindness and humility. MIGNON WAS WONDERFUL Born on the third day of orthodox christmas,

30

SPring | Proleće 2011 BelGuest

9th january, 1900, in gotha, germany, as the third of six children of the romanian royal couple. Her family, and later her husband King alexander, called her Mignon, from the title of french composer ambroise thomas’s opera, which her mother had seen just prior to Maria’s birth. “Mignon was wonderful, a gorgeous addition to our family, the most loving, favourite child. Her hair was the colour of ripe wheat and curly, with her pale pink face, lips curved like little cupid’s bow, elongated and dreamy eyes, long, shadowy eyelashes and finely arched eyebrows. Mignon was always cheerful and it wasn’t possible for anything to distract her in her children’s games or darken her mood,” wrote her mother, romanian Queen Marie, in her memoirs. the princess’s education, which saw professors from england brought to the romanian royal court, was interrupted by the first World War. the princess, together with her mother and sisters, nursed the sick and wounded at the main military hospital in Bucharest. upon the end of the war, her education resumed at the prestigious Hiltfild school in england, where the children of the British royalty were educated. in addition to romanian, she spoke german, english and french, while she started studying serbian once she was engaged. “even though she and my father usually spoke french when they were together, she spoke serbian very well,” wrote her first born son, King Peter ii, many years later in his own memoirs, life of a King. Biographers record that she had a preference for the natural sciences: chemistry, botany and physics, as well as a gift for fine art and classical music – she painted, sculpted and was an excellent pianist. MARRIAGE AS A GUARANTEE OF BALKAN STABILITY King alexander and Queen Maria were wed on 8th june 1922 in the cathedral church in Belgrade. the ceremony was performed by the then serbian Patriarch, Dimitrije, in the presence of all bishops of the serbian orthodox church, members of both royal houses and the governments of both countries, and the diplomatic corps. the Best Man, King george

v of england, was represented by his son, Prince albert, the Duke of York, who later became King george vi, while the role of the bride’s protector was played by Prince arsen Karadjordjevic. this marriage was supported by politicians, who assessed it as “a statesmanlike move of an international scale and a guarantee of stability in the Balkans,” with serbia and romania having reached agreement over the Banat region and solved their border problem. according to the wish of the royal couple, cash donations and wedding gifts were used to form the “King’s fund office”, which was the foundation of the Queen’s charitable and humanitarian work in their homeland. funded by the numerous charities, humanitarian, educational, cultural and religious organisations, she helped poor and sick children, the unemployed, single mothers, war veterans, talented artists etc. she built a hospital, churches, schools and homes. During her 12-year marriage to King alexander, Queen Maria gave birth to three sons: King Peter ii (1923-1970), Prince tomislav (1928-2000) and Prince andrew (1929-1990). With the crowning of King Peter ii, she also gained the title of queen-

ARTIST, DRIVER, HUNTER…

Queen Maria was an excellent driver. Fast driving was her hobby. She obtained a driving license in 1920. She was a member of the Automobile Club in Bucharest and Paris. She also made efforts in Serbia to develop sports car racing and it was under her patronage that the Auto-Club was founded in Belgrade in 1922. She was a passionate hunter of big game and was considered a good shooter. She accompanied King Alexander on hunts. After her marriage she did not neglect her studies of sculpture either, learning and working in Belgrade with sculptor Iva Despic. She was also active in applied art – she made a shroud and curtains for the Belgrade Cathedral Church. The shroud is still kept in the temple, while the curtains are in the depot of the National Museum. She also attended art school during her days of exile in England.


ELUSIVE OPLENAC

The Monodrama “The return of Queen Marie of Yugoslavia” has been performed for the last 20 years. It speaks about a historically unacknowledged detail from the queen’s life – her urging that the then Embassy of Yugoslav in London respond to her personal request that she be interred, after her death, beside her husband in Oplenac. The character of Queen Marie is portrayed by actress Ljiljana Stjepanovic. The exhibition at the White Palace, organised with the help of the Foundation of King Peter I at Oplenac and the Archives of Yugoslavia, “returned”, in a manner, Queen Maria to the Dedinje court. The exhibition covers the period from her marriage to King Alexander to the end of her life, as testified by items of the Queen’s personal belongings, family correspondences, the marriage contract, wedding gifts, court accounts, government documents, photographs, maps etc.

King Alexander I & Queen Maria mother. Holy Bishop nikolai said that “in Queen Mary the nation found that which it had longed for: an ideal ruler, good wife, devoted mother, hard working housewife and dignified queen”. - after the tragic murder of my grandfather King alexander in Marseilles in 1934, her life became very difficult. those were painful and complicated times for her: the regency era, the rise of fascism, political intrigue in Yugoslavia, World War ii, civil war and, of course, her very traumatic and sad exile to london - observed crown Prince alexander, whilst opening the exhibition dedicated to his grandmother, Queen Maria, at the White Palace. at the outbreak of World War ii, Queen Maria established the Yugoslav committee of the red cross, the work of which she helped by collecting donations and providing her own money. in october 1942 she founded the “st. andrej” humanitarian association, which helped Yugoslavs in PoW camps and their own country, while she cooperated at all times with the British st. john’s ambulance humanitarian organisation. When the new Yugoslav authorities revoked the citizenship and full citizenship rights of all members of the Karadjordjevic royal family, she decided to permanently settle in england, where, according to her son Prince tomislav, “she came in 1938 for an

operation and, through a combination of further developments, and against his will, she stayed to the end of her life. she died in her sleep during the night between 21st and 22nd june 1961 in london. in the presence of family, european nobility and six thousand people from england, the u.s. and across europe, she was buried on 3rd july 1961 at the frogmore royal cemetery in Windsor, not far from her greatgrandmother, Queen victoria.

“i was the only one of our large family, as well as the immediate family, who was with her when she died. My mother didn’t mention in her will where she wanted to be buried. this is understandable, because it is known that her place is in oplenac, in the crypt where my father is also buried and where, as is well known, there is a placed next to him reserved for her. However, the possibilities in the country at the moment of her death were such that it was impossible. especially since the regime at the time greatly abhorred such burials. it was as if they were even afraid of dead Karadjordjevics,” wrote Prince tomoslav in his memoirs. Queen Maria’s remains are still at Windsor. JelenA TASIĆ photographs: roYal Palaces arcHive & DAnilo PeTerneK

With Crown prince Alexander II

BelGuest Proleće | SPring 2011

31


P o rt r e t i | Ma r i j a K a r ađ o r đ e v i ć, P r va j u g o s lov e n s K a K r a l j i c a

PONOVO U SRBIJI

Sredinom juna u Beogradu i Londonu obeležena je 50. godišnjica od smrti Marije Karađorđević, prve jugoslovenske kraljice (1900-1961). Najpre je na maloj sceni Opere i teatra Madlenianum u Zemunu započelo višemesečno gostovanje monodrame Dragane Bošković „Povratak kraljice Marije Karađorđević“. Potom je u Belom dvoru otvorena izložba „Pedeset godina od smrti kraljice Marije“, a 22. juna u dvorskoj kapeli Svetog Andreja Prvozvanog na Dedinju služen je parastos za pokoj kraljičine duše. U Srbiju se vratila putem sećanja i molitvi posle više od 70 godina odsustva i oko šest decenija prećutkivanja.

S

udbine žena srpskih vladara često su bile dostojne antičkih tragedija, u čemu ni supruga kralja aleksandra Prvog Karađorđevića nije bila izuzetak: praunuka engleske kraljice viktorije, kći rumunskog kralja ferdinanda Hoencolerna i kraljice Marije do udaje je nosila titulu princeze velike Britanije i severne irske. sa 22 godine postala je kraljica srba, Hrvata i slovenaca, a kasnije jugoslavije, u 34. ostala udovica sa tri sina, zemlju je napustila sa 38, imala 47 godina kada su je jugoslovenske komunističke vlasti proglasile za zločinca i lišile ljudskih prava, u 61. umrla je u izgnanstvu. uprkos svemu, u narodu je ostala

32

SPring | Proleće 2011 BelGuest

upamćena po dobrotvornom radu, zadužbinarstvu, ljubaznosti i skromnosti. MINJON JE BILA DIVNA rođena je trećeg dana Božića, 9. januara 1900, u goti u nemačkoj, kao treće od šestoro dece rumunskog kraljevskog para. Porodica, a kasnije i njen muž kralj aleksandar zvali su je Minjon, po nazivu opere francuskog kompozitora ambroaza tomasa, koju je njena majka pogledala neposredno pre porođaja. „Minjon je bila divna, zanosna dopuna naše porodice, najmilije, najdraže dete. njena kosa bila je boje zrelog žita i kovrdžasta, lice ružičasto

bledo, usta povijena kao mali Kupidonov luk, oči duguljaste i sanjalačke, trepavice duge i senčaste, a obrve fino povijene. Minjon je bila stalno vesela i ništa je nije moglo u njenim dečijim igrama omesti i raspoloženje joj pomutiti“, zapisala je u svojim memoarima njena majka rumunska kraljica Marija. Princezino obrazovanje, zbog kog su na rumunski dvor dovedeni profesori iz engleske, prekinuo je Prvi svetski rat. Princeza je zajedno sa majkom i sestrama negovala bolesnike i ranjenike u glavnoj vojnoj bolnici u Bukureštu. Posle završetka rata, školovanje nastavlja u prestižnoj Hiltfild školi u


engleskoj, koju su pohađala deca iz engleske kraljevske kuće. Pored rumunskog, govorila je nemački, engleski i francuski jezik, a srpski je počela da uči posle veridbe. „iako su ona i moj otac uglavnom govorili francuski kada su bili zajedno, veoma je dobro govorila srpski”, pisao je mnogo godina kasnije njen prvorođeni sin kralj Petar Drugi u svojim memoarima „Život jednog kralja“. Biografi beleže da je imala sklonosti ka prirodnim naukama: hemiji, botanici i fizici, te dar za likovnu umetnost i klasičnu muziku – bavila se slikarstvom, vajarstvom i bila odličan pijanista. BRAK KAO GARANCIJA STABILNOSTI NA BALKANU Kralj aleksandar i kraljica Marija venčali su se 8. juna 1922. u sabornoj crkvi u Beogradu. venčao ih je tadašnji patrijarh srpski Dimitrije, u prisustvu svih arhijereja srpske pravoslavne crkve, članova oba kraljevska doma i vlade obe zemlje, diplomatskog kora. Kuma, engleskog kralja Džordža Petog, zastupao je njegov sin princ albert – vojvoda od jorka, potonji kralj Džordž Šesti, a stari svat bio je princ arsen Karađorđević. taj brak podržali su i političari, ocenjujući ga kao „državnički potez međunarodnih razmera i garanciju stabilnosti na Balkanu“, jer su se srbija i rumunija sporazumele oko Banata i rešile problem granica. Po želji kraljevskog para, od novčanih priloga i svadbenih darova formiran je „fond Kraljevske kancelarije“, koji je bio temelj kraljičinog dobrotvornog i humanitarnog rada u otadžbini. finansirala je mnogobrojna dobrotvorna društva, humanitarne, prosvetno-kulturne i verske organizacije, pomagala siromašnu i bolesnu decu, nezaposlene, samohrane majke, ratnu siročad, talentovane umetnike... gradila je bolnice, crkve, škole i domove.

u 12-godišnjem braku sa kraljem aleksandrom kraljica Marija rodila je tri sina: kralja Petra Drugog (1923-1970), kraljeviće tomislava (1928-2000) i andreja (1929-1990). stupanjem na presto kralja Petra Drugog, dobila je i titulu kraljice majke. sveti vladika nikolaj govorio je da je „u kraljici Mariji narod našao ono za čim je žudeo: idealnu vladarku, dobru suprugu, požrtvovanu majku, vrednu domaćicu, dostojanstvenu kraljicu“. – Posle tragičnog ubistva mog dede kralja aleksandra, u Marseju 1934, njen život postao je veoma težak. to su bila mučna i složena vremena za nju: doba namesništva, uspona fašizma, političkih intriga u jugoslaviji, Drugog svetskog rata, građanskog rata i, naravno, veoma traumatičnog i tužnog progonstva u london – rekao je prestolonaslednik aleksandar otvarajući u Belom dvoru izložbu o svojoj babi kraljici Mariji. na početku Drugog svetskog rata kraljica Marija osnovala je Komitet jugoslovenskog društva crvenog krsta, čiji je rad pomagala sakupljanjem dobrotvornih priloga i novcem od svoje apanaže. u oktobru 1942. osnovala je humanitarno društvo „sveti andrej“, koje je pomagalo jugoslovenima u zarobljeničkim logorima i u otadžbini, a sve vreme sarađivala je i sa engleskom humanitarnom organizacijom „sveti jovan“. Kada su nove jugoslovenske vlasti članovima kraljevske porodice Karađorđević oduzele državljanstvo i sva građanska prava, odlučila je da se stalno nastani u engleskoj, u koju je, prema rečima njenog sina kraljevića tomislava „došla 1938. na operaciju i sticajem daljeg razvoja događaja, mimo svoje volje, ostala do kraja života. umrla je u snu, u noći između 21. i 22. juna 1961. u londonu. u prisustvu porodice, evropskog plemstva i šest hiljada ljudi iz engleske,

UMETNICA, VOZAČ, LOVAC…

Kraljica Marija bila je odličan vozač. Brza vožnja bila je njen hobi. Vozačku dozvolu dobila je 1920. godine. Bila je član auto-kluba u Bukureštu i Parizu. Trudila se da i u Srbiji razvije sportski automobilizam, pa je pod njenim pokroviteljstvom 1922. osnovan Auto-klub u Beogradu. Bila je strastan lovac na krupnu divljač i važila za dobrog strelca. U lov je išla sa kraljem Aleksandrom. Posle udaje nije zapostavila ni studije vajarstva, u Beogradu je učila i radila kod vajarke Ive Despić. Bavila se i primenjenom umetnošću – za beogradsku Sabornu crkvu napravila je plaštanicu i zavese. Plaštanica se i danas čuva u tom hramu, a zavese u depou Narodnog muzeja. Umetničku školu pohađala je i tokom izgnaničkih dana u Engleskoj. saD i cele evrope sahranjena je 3. jula 1961. na Kraljevskom groblju frogmor u vindzoru, nedaleko od svoje prababe kraljice viktorije. „Bio sam jedan od naše mnogobrojne familije i najuže porodice koji je bio uz nju kad je umrla. Moja mama u testamentu nije oporučila gde bi želela da bude sahranjena. to je i razumljivo, jer se zna da je njeno mesto na oplencu, u kripti gde je sahranjen i moj otac i gde je, kao što je poznato, uz njega određeno i mesto za nju. Prilike su, međutim, u zemlji bile takve da je u trenutku njene smrti to bilo neizvodljivo. Pogotovo što je tadašnji režim od ove sahrane mnogo zazirao. Kao da su se plašili i mrtvih Karađorđevića“, zabeležio je u svojim memoarima kraljević tomislav. Kraljica Marija još počiva u vindzoru. JelenA TASić fotografije: arhiv Belog dvora i DAnilo PeTerneK

NEDOSTIŽNI OPLENAC

Monodrama „Povratak kraljice Marije Karađorđević“ izvodi se već 20 godina. Govori o istorijski nepotvrđenom detalju iz kraljičinog života – urgiranju da joj tadašnje Jugoslovensko poslanstvo u Londonu odgovori na lični zahtev da, posle smrti, počiva na Oplencu, pokraj svoga muža. Lik kraljice Marije tumači glumica Ljiljana Stjepanović. Izložba u Belom dvoru, organizovana uz pomoć Zadužbine kralja Petra Prvog na Oplencu i Arhiva Jugoslavije, „vratila“ je takoreći kraljicu Mariju u dedinjske dvorove. Obuhvata vreme od njene udaje za kralja Aleksandra do kraja života, o čemu svedoče kraljičine lične stvari, porodična prepiska, bračni ugovor, svadbeni pokloni, dvorski računi, državni dokumenti, fotografije, mape…

King Alexander I & Queen Maria with their sons

BelGuest Proleće | SPring 2011

33


GERMAN LITERARY PRIZE AWARDED TO JOVAN NIKOLIĆ

HERBARIUM OF DREAMS Jovan Nikolic’s book “White Raven, Black Lamb” has won Germany’s 2011 Book for the City Award. This valuable recognition is awarded by the House of Culture from Cologne and the “Koelner StadtAnzeiger” newspaper.

T

he Book for the City initiative has been organised annually in Cologne since 2003 in an effort to support literature and literary understanding not only in the city on the Rhine, but across the entire region. The prize winning book is reprinted as a new paperback edition in 10,000 copies, coupled with a seven-day regional presentation of the literary work and organisation of a wide range of literary events. The importance of the award is best evidenced by the fact that previous Book for the City winners prior to Jovan Nikolic have included selected works by Italo Calvino, Haruki Murakami, Orhan Pamuk and others. As such, the news that the winner of this year’s award is Jovan Nikolic is even more significant, as he is the first Serbian writer to be included among these great writers. The novel White Raven, Black Lamb is Nikolic’s third book to be published in German and will be at the centre of numerous cultural events to be held from 4th to 11th December 2011. We have discovered that more than thirty readings are scheduled to be held at various bookshops, on city trams, in schools, at the city’s university and in

34

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

theatres. The initiative involves many people and institutions, from individuals and literary circles to bookshops and school classes. By Serbian standards, a huge number of copies of the book are printed and sold at a very popular price of five euros, ensuring that as many people as possible can buy the awardwinning book. Furthermore, the entire city will be decorated with large posters with the programme for the week-long initiative in December, while a media promotion of the Serbian writer has already been launched in recent days. Despite all the fuss about his name and work, Nikolic remains quite restrained: - I still sleep peacefully, because I’ve been in this business for too long (35 years) and so I know that appraisals and rewards are detrimental to the soul of an artist. It’s the same as when my wife asked me “What will we do if we win the lottery?” and I calmly replied “Nothing. We’ll make some tea and go for a walk”. That’s how it will be this time too.


The Cologne-based writer nevertheless admits that this award means also an obligation to “respect the recognition of the state that has accepted his voluntary exile and the state that appreciates his work, so that his future books attain the level of criteria on the basis of which he has now been rewarded.” - That news came suddenly, like a dinner invitation from a beautiful lady who hadn’t cared for me for a long time and then found my book somewhere, read it and fancied it a lot. At this point I have mixed feelings of shame and fear, because I wasn’t expecting the invitation. German critics say that Jovan Nikolic doesn’t need fantasy and imagination at all and that his biography alone is enough. - Perhaps someone thought I had a biography that only needed photocopying and that I could write, in the form of diary prose, how and what happened. It may seem so, but in my literary laboratory I know best what kind of dough, mud or fabric I used in order to create the architecture of that imaginary world, the sleepwalking, oniric atmosphere in the “Lamb” that is like the Makonde, by our good uncle Marquez in One Hundred Years of Solitude, where people started losing their memory. Those images from the Makonde are like Cacak and Ivanjica Alley, as Kneza Miloša Street used to be called, and the Gypsy quarter that I first experienced as socialisation, because during the previous eleven years I had lived exclusively in hotel rooms. My landscape was confined to eggshells and onion skins, kitchens and cutlery, the shimmering of fish bellies on oval plates, those were the maximum fantasies, and, of course, the voices and music from the radio produced by EI “Niš”. Radio was simply the only window to the world for us. And in Cacak began the yard, began the magic of trees, began the night, began the syncope. Around there were a dozen blacksmiths, different, seated, with that thin sounding of bells and those standing with large bellows like the bass, which they hit with a hard, mammoth-sized hammer; once on the metal, twice on the bare anvil with a handle, or when his assistant hit a double syncope. So, when those sounds are set together, those chorus bells, one should grow with that. Somewhere there started that biography and some magic way of gypsies’ living. However, I was the white crow for my environment, because my mother was a Serb (Hadži) and because I was fond of reading books and self-education. I jumped out of all of that and into my personal world and, of course, after that, I was vigilantly occupied by literature and, thanks to that imaginativeness, later, when I stepped into the world of poetry, I packed all those images and sounds into a herbarium, into an omnibus, into a book that was published in 2006 and that they awarded this year, with some delay, but oh well, an invitation to dinner is still – an invitation to dinner. In an in-depth interview for Koelner Stadt-Anzeiger, under the headline Dictation of the Inner Voice, Nikolic spoke about his upbringing in the Roma community, his never-ending passion for reading and writing, his reasons for

BIOGRAPHY

Serbian-Roma-German writer Jovan Nikolić was born in 1955 in Čačak. His first book was published in 1982 while he was living in Belgrade, writing plays and performing as a theatre actor and musician. He became known as a soundtrack composer, notably for Emir Kusturica’s film Black Cat, White Cat. He emigrated to Germany in 1999. He is considered “an indispensable voice of Roma literature in Europe” and his poetry has been translated into ten languages and is included in many international anthologies. The author is a member of the Serbian P.E.N. Centre of Belgrade and, as of 2002, is also Vice-President of the Helsinki-based International Romani Writers Association (IRWA). He lives and works in Cologne. leaving Serbia and how it was to start a new life in Germany at the age of 44, which for him was a leap into icy waters”. According to the German newspaper’s description of Nikolic’s award-winning book, his novel White Raven, Black Lamb is a “big world described from the perspective of a boy”, “an album of his childhood spent in a ‘Gypsy suburb’ of the former Yugoslavia, with condensed images and surreal scenes of a chicken on a bicycle, lamb eyes, rakija brandy and a lot of superstition”. This text has been prepared on the basis of material from VESTI Online and interviews by Ž. BAŠIĆ SAVIĆ

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

35


NEMAČKA KNJIŽEVNA NAGRADA JOVANU NIKOLIĆU

HERBARIJUM SNOVA Knjiga „Beli gavran – crno jagnje“ Jovana Nikolića izabrana je u Nemačkoj za „Knjigu za grad“ 2011. godine. To vredno priznanje dodeljuju „Kuća kulture“ iz Kelna i novine „Kelner štat ancajger“.

„K

njiga za grad“ je akcija koja se u Kelnu sprovodi od 2003. godine kao podrška literaturi i literarnom razumevanju ne samo u gradu na Rajni nego i u čitavom regionu. Nagrada podrazumeva novo džepno izdanje odabrane knjige, u 10.000 primeraka, sedmodnevno regionalno predstavljanje književnog dela i obuhvata širok spektar literarnih događanja. O vrednosti same nagrade dovoljno govori podatak da su pre Jovana Nikolića za „Knjigu za grad“ izabrana dela Itala Kalvina, Harukija Murakamija, Orhana Pamuka… Tim je značajnija vest da je ovogodišnji dobitnik ove nagrade Jovan Nikolić, prvi srpski pisac u plejadi književnih veličina. Njegov roman „Beli gavran, crno jagnje“, treća Nikolićeva knjiga objavljena na nemačkom, biće u centru brojnih kulturnih dešavanja od 4. do 11. decembra 2011. godine. Kako saznajemo, planirano je da se održi više od 30 čitanja u knjižarama,

36

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

tramvajima, školama, na univerzitetu i u pozorištu, a u akciji učestvuju mnogi, od pojedinaca, literarnih krugova, knjižara, do školskih razreda. Knjiga se štampa u za naše uslove ogromnom tiražu, a prodaje se po izuzetno popularnoj ceni od pet evra, kako bi što više ljudi došlo u posed nagrađene knjige. Uz to, čitav grad biće oblepljen velikim plakatima sa programom za decembarsku nedelju, a već ovih dana krenula je medijska promocija srpskog pisca. Na svu tu pompu oko svog imena i dela, Nikolić ostaje prilično uzdržan: - I dalje spavam mirno, budući da sam suviše dugo u ovom poslu (35 godina), pa znam da su pohvale i nagrade pogubne za dušu stvaraoca. To je isto kao kad me supruga pitala: „Šta ćemo da radimo ako dobijemo na lotou?“, a ja sam mirno odgovorio: „Ništa. Skuvaćemo čaj i otići da šetamo.“ Tako će biti i ovoga puta.


BIOGRAFIJA

Srpsko-romsko-nemački pisac Jovan Nikolić rođen je 1955. godine u Čačku. Prvu knjigu objavljuje 1982. godine, a u Beogradu je pisao pozorišne komade i nastupao kao glumac i muzičar. Postao je poznat kao pisac tekstova za muziku u filmu Emira Kusturice „Crna mačka, beli mačor”. Godine 1999. emigrirao je u Nemačku. Danas važi za „nezamenljivi glas romske literature u Evropi”, a njegova poezija prevedena je na deset jezika i svrstana u mnoge međunarodne antologije. Autor je član srpskog PEN, a od 2002. godine potpredsednik je Međunarodne asocijacije romskih pisaca (IRNJA) u Helsinkiju. Živi i radi u Kelnu. Pisac iz Kelna ipak priznaje da ova nagrada znači obavezu da i u „svojevoljnom izgnanstvu poštuje priznanje države koja ga prihvata i ceni njegov rad, i da buduće knjige budu na nivou kriterijuma na osnovu kojih je i nagrađen.“ - Ta vest je naletela iznenada kao poziv na večeru neke lepotice koja dugo nije marila za mene, pa je sad negde pronašla moju knjigu, pročitala i dopala joj se. U ovom trenutku imam pomešano osećanje stida i bojazni, jer nisam očekivao poziv. Nemački kritičari kažu da Jovanu Nikoliću uopšte nije potrebna fantazija, mašta, da mu je dovoljna njegova biografija. - Možda je nekome zaličilo da sam imao biografiju koja je trebalo samo da se fotokopira i da se na planu dnevničke proze zapiše kako je to bilo i šta se sve zbilo. Možda izgleda tako, ali ja u mojoj književnoj laboratoriji znam najbolje od koga sam testa, blata ili štofa gradio arhitekturu tog imaginarnog sveta, te mesečarske, oniričke atmosfere u „Jagnjetu“ koja je nalik, poređenja radi, na Makondo, našeg dobrog ujaka Markesa u „Sto godina samoće“, gde su ljudi počeli da gube pamćenje. Te slike iz Makonda su kao Čačak i Ivanjički sokak, kako se ranije zvala ulica

Kneza Miloša, i ta Cigan-mala, koju sam prvi put doživeo kao socijalizaciju, jer sam prethodnih 11 godina živeo isključivo u hotelskim sobama. Pejzaž mi se svodio na ljuske od jaja i luka, kuhinje i pribora za jelo, ljeskanja ribljih trbuha na ovalima, to su bile maksimalne fantazije i, naravno, glasovi i muzika sa radija marke EI „Niš“. Radio je baš bio jedini prozor u svet. A u Čačku je počelo dvorište, počela magija drveća, počela noć, počele su te sinkope. Okolo je bilo desetak kovača, različitih, sedećih, sa onom tankom zvonjavom praporaca, i onih stojećih, sa velikim mehom kao kontrabas, koji su udarali teškim, mamutskim čekićem. Jedanput u kovinu, dvaput u goli nakovanj sa drškom ili kad mu asistent udari neku dvostruku sinkopu. E, kada se sklope ti zvukovi, ta neka horska zvona, uz to treba rasti. Tu negde počinje ta neka biografija i taj neki magijski način življenja Cigana. Međutim, ja sam tu bio bela vrana za okolinu, zato što mi je majka bila Srpkinja (Gadži), zato što sam bio sklon čitanju knjiga i samoobrazovanju. Iskočio sam iz svega toga u moj lični svet i, naravno, nakon toga, pomno se baveći literaturom i zahvaljujući toj nekoj maštovitosti, docnije, kada sam zakoračio u svet poezije, sve te slike i zvukove sam pakovao u jedan herbarij, omnibus, u knjigu koja je štampana 2006, a oni je ove godine nagradili, sa nekim zakašnjenjem, ali dobro, ipak je poziv na večeru – poziv na večeru. U opširnom intervjuu za „Kelner štat ancajger“ sa naslovom „Diktat unutrašnjeg glasa”, Nikolić je govorio o svom odrastanju u romskoj sredini, neutoljenoj strasti prema čitanju i pisanju, razlozima za odlazak iz Srbije i o tome kako je sa 44 godine odlučio da započne novi život u Nemačkoj, što je za njega bio „skok u ledenu vodu”. Njegov roman „Beli gavran, crno jagnje” je „veliki svet opisan iz perspektive dečaka”, „album njegovog detinjstva provedenog u jednom „ciganskom predgrađu” bivše Jugoslavije, u kojem su kondenzovane slike i nadrealne scene kokošaka na biciklu, jagnjećih očiju, rakije i sujeverja, opisuje nemački list nagrađenu Nikolićevu knjigu. Tekst priređen na osnovu materijala VESTI Online i razgovora Ž. BAŠIĆ SAVIĆ

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

37


S E R B I A N I N V E S T M E N T A N D E X P O R T P R O M OT I O N AG E N C Y - S I E PA

DECADE OF SUCCESS The construction of Ball Packaging Europe’s factory was declared the investment of that year in Southeast Europe. Following this first major international recognition, SIEPA continued is successes – it found its way among the eight best agencies according to World Bank rankings, it received a special award for the best promotional strategy and campaign on investment climate at the “La Baule” World Investment Conference; the agency was rated among the six best organisations of its kind in the world by the International Trade Centre and it was following a SIEPA nomination that London’s Financial Times declared Belgrade the City of the Future of Southern and Eastern Europe. 38

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest


T

he story of SIEPA begins back in 2001, with the establishment of the first democratic government in Serbia. A positive spirit can be felt spreading beyond the borders of the northern republic of the FR Yugoslavia and making its way to our people in the Diaspora, as is popularly said. Some of them, particularly the more successful among those who had never paid heed to the recently overthrown regime, decide to return to Serbia and do something to ensure the country’s rapid integration into the global economy. One of those is Dusan Zivkovic, at the time in the employ of UNCTAD until being appointed the first director of the Serbian Investment and Export Promotion Agency - SIEPA. There is no doubt that cause exists to establish an agency of this kind the country desperately needs foreign investment. Furthermore, the concept of the existence of a body solely dedicated to attracting foreign investment and promoting local companies’ exports, and containing a required critical mass of expertise in this area, proves the only proper way to address the established aims. At the time more than 150 countries have some form of IPA (Investment Promotion Agency, Agency for Foreign Investments) and some of them are also dealing with export promotion. The Serbian government opts for precisely this kind of dual role for the agency and, thus, Serbia gains SIEPA. FIRST MAJOR GREENFIELD INVESTMENT Due to the nature of the job, requiring lots of contact with foreigners, the first wave of employees at the agency consist of young graduates of prestigious universities abroad, who have lived and worked in multicultural environments and are able to speak foreign languages. It could be said that, in terms of knowledge and qualifications, the SIEPA team of that period represented the elite. Nonetheless, despite all government structures of the time declaring their support for foreign investments and their awareness of such investments’ importance to the recovery of the economy, substantial support remains lacking. The Agency has to fight for its basic existence, but in spite of that, in early 2003, SIEPA succeeds in propelling its first major investment project to the realisation stage; a project led by Schmalbach-Lubeca that is actually the project to build a Ball Packaging Europe factory in Batajnica. This is also the first real greenfield investment in Serbia, the realisation of which would certainly not have come so quickly without the sheer enthusiasm of SIEPA’s staff. Based on a SIEPA nomination, this investment is declared the greenfield investment of Southeast Europe by the Organisation for Economic

Cooperation and Development – OECD: an award based on SIEPA’s winning mentality. Thus, in the years ahead, thanks again to the nominations and work of SIEPA, Serbia has a “racing thoroughbred” and regularly wins awards at this important annual review of investment. The export promotion sector also slowly starts finding its feet and embarking on its first serious efforts to promote Serbian exports abroad. IMPROVEMENT & RENAISSANCE Following the end of his mandate, Dusan Zivkovic decides to return to his previous work, making way for the agency to be headed by Zlatan Milosevic, an IT expert who has spent 14 years living and working in the United States. This period is characterised by the intensive education of employees, learning from the best in the business – primarily Czech, Slovak and Hungarian agencies – and joining the battle for investment projects with major competitors at the international level: other countries in the region and those of Central and Eastern Europe that had entered the game ten years earlier. Launching the SEMDAS and SIBLAS programmes proves a great success for the agency in the field of export promotions. These were the forerunners of the current programme for the internationalisation of companies, which is still being implemented to

10 nUmBErS FOr 10 yEArS OF SIEPA: 46 employees 22 international diplomas 10 world languages 407 investment projects 220 organised fair/expo events 1525 assisted domestic enterprises 520 million dinars for exporters 110 million Euros for investors 7 billion Euros for foreign investments 5 billion Euros of exports

improve the competitiveness of Serbian export companies on foreign markets. With the new government of 2004, a new agency head arrives: Jasna Matic, a talented manager with extensive international experience. It could be said that this is SIEPA’s renaissance period. Successes come one after another, both in the field of promoting Serbia and attracting investment and in the field of enhancing performance. The Agency begins to “gain weight”; it becomes recognisable and familiar to an ever wider range of business people. From the very beginning of its work it is virtually a rule that SIEPA enjoys much greater prestige abroad than in Serbia. The formal recognition of that begins to materialise in 2006, first from the World Bank - when SIEPA secures a place among the top eight ranked investment promotion agencies from 114 transition economies around the world. Similar successes continue after the departure of Mrs Matic to become State Secretary of the Ministry of Economy and the appointment of Vesna Peric, her former deputy, as director of the agency. In early September 2007 SIEPA receives a special award for the best promotional strategy and campaign of the investment climate in a European country at the World Investment Conference “La Baule” and the following year the International Trade Centre, a joint body of the World Trade Organisation and the United Nations, rates SIEPA among the six best organisations of its kind in the world. On the basis of a SIEPA nomination, and led by the Financial Times, the City of Belgrade is proclaimed the City of the Future of Southern and Eastern Europe 2006/2007. In mid 2010 this well-established management team is taken over by Bozidar Laganin, himself a former member of the team from 2004 to 2008, who has spent two years at the Ministry of Telecommunications before returning to his principal home. BeLGueSt

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

39


AG E N C I J E Z A S T R A N A U L AG A N J A I P R O M O C I J U I Z V O Z A - S I E PA

DECEnIJA USPEHA Izgradnja fabrike Ball Packaging Europe proglašena je za investiciju godine jugoistočne Evrope. Posle ovog prvog velikog međunarodnog priznanja, SIEPA nastavlja sa uspesima – plasira se među osam najboljih agencija na rang-listi Svetske banke, na Svetskoj investicionoj konferenciji „La Baule“ dobija specijalnu nagradu za najbolju promotivnu strategiju i kampanju o investicionoj klimi, međunarodni trgovinski centar uvrštava Agenciju među šest najboljih organizacija ove vrste u čitavom svetu, a na nominaciju SIEPA, Financial Times proglašava Beograd za Grad budućnosti u južnoj i istočnoj Evropi.

40

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest


P

riča o SIEPA počinje 2001. godine, sa uspostavljanjem prve demokratske vlade u Srbiji. Osećao se pozitivan duh koji se širio i van granica severne republike tadašnje SR Jugoslavije i dosezao do naših ljudi u rasejanju, kako se to popularno kaže. Neki od njih, posebno oni uspešniji i nikada naklonjeni upravo svrgnutom režimu, odlučili su da se vrate u Srbiju i učine nešto za njenu bržu integraciju u svetsku ekonomiju. Jedan od njih je bio i Dušan Živković, tada angažovan u UNCTAD, koji je postavljen za prvog direktora Agencije za strana ulaganja i promociju izvoza – SIEPA. Postojanje razloga za osnivanje agencije ovog tipa bilo je nesporno – zemlji su očajnički bile potrebne strane investicije. Dalje, sam koncept postojanja tela koje je posvećeno isključivo privlačenju stranih ulaganja i promociji izvoza lokalnih kompanija i koje je sadržalo neophodnu kritičnu masu ekspertize u ovoj oblasti pokazao se i dokazao kao jedini pravi put ka pomenutom cilju. U to vreme je više od 150 zemalja imalo neki oblik IPA (investment promotion agency, agencija za strana ulaganja), a neke od njih su se ujedno bavile promocijom izvoza. Vlada RS odlučila se upravo za taj model dvojake uloge agencije i tako je Srbija dobila Agenciju SIEPA. PRVA VELIKA GREENFIELD INVESTICIJA Po prirodi posla, sa mnogo kontakata sa strancima, prvu „garnituru“ zaposlenih u agenciji činili su mladi ljudi koji su završili prestižne fakultete u inostranstvu, živeli i radili u multikulturalnom okruženju i govorili strane jezike. Može se reći da je tim SIEPA po znanju i kvalifikacijama predstavljao elitu. Međutim, iako su sve strukture tadašnje vlasti deklarativno bile za strane investicije i shvatale njihovu važnost za oporavak ekonomije, suštinska podrška je izostajala. Agencija je morala da se bori sa osnovnim egzistencijalnim pitanjima, ali uprkos tome, početkom 2003. godine SIEPA je uspela da dovede do faze realizacije svoj prvi veliki investicioni projekat, koji se tada vodio kao Šmalbah-Lubeka, a, zapravo je projekat izgradnje fabrike Ball Packaging Europe u Batajnici. To je ujedno bila prva prava greenfield investicija u Srbiji, do čije realizacije svakako dugo ne bi došlo da nije bilo čistog entuzijazma ljudi u SIEPA. Tu investiciju je, na nominaciju SIEPA, Organizacija za ekonomsku saradnju i razvoj – OECD proglasila i za greenfield investiciju godine jugoistočne Evrope. To je nagrada koja je bila osnova za pobednički mentalitet Agencije. Tako je Srbija, opet na osnovu nominacije i rada SIEPA, i u narednim godinama imala „rasne galopere za trku“ i redovno osvajala nagrade na toj važnoj godišnjoj smotri investicija. Polako na noge staje i Sektor za promociju izvoza

i kreću prve ozbiljnije aktivnosti na promociji srpskog izvoza u inostranstvu. USAVRŠAVANJE I RENESANSA Nakon isteka mandata, Dušan Živković odlučuje da se vrati svom pređašnjem poslu, a na čelo Agencije dolazi Zlatan Milošević, IT stručnjak, koji je 14 godina živeo i radio u SAD. To vreme odlikuje intenzivna edukacija zaposlenih, učenje od najboljih u tom poslu, pre svega češke, slovačke i mađarske agencije, te uključivanje u bitku za investicione projekte sa glavnim takmacima na internacionalonom nivou – zemljama u regionu i zemljama centralne i istočne Evrope koje su u tu utakmicu ušle deset godina ranije. Veliki uspeh za agenciju na polju promocije izvoza bilo je i pokretanje programa SEMDAS i SIBLAS, preteča Programa internacionalizacije privrednih društava, koji je i danas aktuelan i sprovodi se zarad poboljšanja konkurentnosti srpskih izvoznih kompanija na inostranim tržištima.

10 BrOJEvA zA 10 GODInA SIEPA: 46 zaposlenih 22 diplome iz inostranstva 10 svetskih jezika 407 investicionih projekata 220 organizovanih sajamskih manifestacija 1.525 pomognutih domaćih preduzeća 520.000.000 dinara za izvoznike 110.000.000 evra za investitore 7.000.000.000 evra stranih investicija 5.000.000.000 evra izvoza

Sa novom vladom, 2004. godine na čelo Agencije dolazi Jasna Matić, talentovana menadžerka sa bogatim međunarodnim iskustvom. Može se reći da je to renesansno doba Agencije. Ređaju se uspesi kako na polju promocije Srbije i privlačenju investicija tako i na polju podizanja performansi. Agencija počinje da dobija „na težini“, postaje priznata i poznata sve širem krugu poslovnih ljudi. Od samog početka njenog rada važilo je pravilo da SIEPA uživa mnogo veći ugled u inostranstvu nego u Srbiji, a formalna priznanja počinju da dolaze 2006. godine, najpre od Svetske banke, kada je ostvaren plasman među osam najboljih agencija za promociju investicija od 114 tranzicionih ekonomija širom sveta. Slični uspesi nastavljaju se i nakon odlaska gospođe Matić na mesto državnog sekretara Ministarstva ekonomije i postavljanja Vesne Perić, dotadašnje njene zamenice, za direktorku Agencije. Početkom septembra 2007. SIEPA dobija specijalnu nagradu za najbolju promotivnu strategiju i kampanju o investicionoj klimi neke zemlje u Evropi na Svetskoj investicionoj konferenciji „La Baule”, a već naredne godine Međunarodni trgovinski centar, zajedničko telo Svetske trgovinske organizacije i Ujedinjenih nacija, uvrštava Agenciju u šest najboljih organizacija te vrste u čitavom svetu. Na nominaciju SIEPA, Financial Times proglašava Beograd za Grad budućnosti u južnoj i istočnoj Evropi 2006/2007. godine. Sredinom 2010. godine rukovođenje uhodanim timom, čiji je i sam bio deo od 2004. do 2008. godine, preuzima Božidar Laganin, koji se nakon dve godine provedene u Ministarstvu telekomunikacija, vratio u svoju matičnu kuću. BeLGueSt

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

41


E V E N T S

|

Jelisaveta Nacic

FIRST SERBIAN FEMALE ARCHITECT October, SANU Gallery of Science & Technology his multimedia exhibition about Jelisaveta Nacic, the first serbian woman to have graduated architecture at the Great school in Belgrade, presents a selection of her works - from competition projects to implemented constructions. through documentary video records, large format prints and archival foot, this exhibition seeks to establish a bridge between two centuries and depict the life struggle of Jelisaveta Nacic to realise her dreams. Info: www.sanu.ac.rs

T

MioDraG B. Protic

POWERFUL MODERNIST

D O G A Đ A Jelisaveta NaČiĆ

PRVA SRPSKA ARHITEKTICA Oktobar, Galerija nauke i tehnike SANU ultimedijalna izložba o Jelisaveti Načić, prvoj srpkinji koja je diplomirala arhitekturu na velikoj školi u Beogradu, predstavlja izbor njenih radova – od konkursnih projekata do ostvarenih objekata. Dokumentarnim videozapisom, printovima velikih formata i arhivskom građom izložba nastoji da uspostavi most izmeðu dva veka i oslika životni put i borbu Jelisavete Načić za ostvarenje svojih snova. Info: www.sanu.ac.rs

M

MioDraG B. ProtiĆ

SNAŽNI MODERNISTA

October, SANU Gallery his retrospective exhibition of the works of Miodrag B. Protic is being jointly prepared by the National Museum of serbia and the Museum of contemporary art. exhibits from the artist’s personal collection have been announced, as well as works from private and museum collections. the exhibition is accompanied by a monographic catalogue with essays covering Protic’s painting career. Info: www.sanu.ac.rs

Oktobar, Galerija SANU etrospektivnu izložbu Miodraga B. Protića zajednički pripremaju Narodni muzej srbije i Muzej savremene umetnosti. Najavljena je postavka dela iz umetnikovog vlasništva, kao i dela iz privatnih kolekcija i zbirki muzeja. izložbu prati katalog – monografija sa studijskim tekstovima o Protićevom slikarstvu. Info: www.sanu.ac.rs

T

exhiBitioN of the NuN Mother ekateriNa’s icoNs

MODERN ICONS

1 - 30 October, Restaurant Gallery 27 his exhibition of the abbess of the Nova Pavlica Monastery, Mother ekaterina, who graduated as a painter and designer, presents a selection of her boldly painted icons. Mother ekaterina paints beauty “that was already discovered in historical examples of the images of the lord, the virgin and the saints, but also that which is just being revealed in the search through various methods and means of visual creation”. the guests of her exhibition show are visnja Devrnja, Natasa ilic, Biljana Jovanovic, Despina crncevic, tamara Pajkovic and vesna crnobrnja, who complement this bold experiment. st

th

T

42

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

J I

R

izložBa ikoNa MoNahiNJe ekateriNe

MODERNA IKONA

1 - 30. oktobar, Restoran Galerija 27 zložba nastojateljice manastira Nova Pavlica – mati ekaterine, inače diplomirane slikarke i dizajnerke, predstavlja izbor njenih smelo naslikanih ikona. Mati ekaterina slika lepotu „koja je već otkrivena u istorijskim primerima slika Gospoda, Bogorodice i svetih, ali i onu koja se tek otkriva u traganju kroz različite metode i sredstva vizuelnog stvaranja“. Gošće na njenoj izložbi su višnja Devrnja, Nataša ilić, Biljana Jovanović, Despina crnčević, tamara Pajković i vesna crnobrnja, koje dopunjuju ovaj smeli eksperiment.

I


E V E N T S

|

MeMorial collectioN of Pavle BelJaNski

THE PATRON & A UNIQUE COLLECTION 12th October – 30th November, the Great Gallery of Army House aul Beljanski, career diplomat and dedicated collector bequeathed the nation his unique art collection, within which he included “only those pictures that represent the intimate personal experiences of the painters”. the exhibition includes 68 works from his collection. for the first time since the opening of the Memorial collection, the public is being given the opportunity to see such a large number of artworks outside of their home building. the concentration of great names of art, as well as a special segment devoted to Pavle Beljanski personally and a special exhibition for the visually impaired, make this exhibition a unique cultural event. Info: www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs

P

D O G A Đ A

J I

sPoMeN-zBirka Pavla BelJaNskoG

DARODAVAC I JEDINSTVENA KOLEKCIJA 12. oktobar –30. novembar, Velika galerija Doma vojske avle Beljanski, diplomata od karijere i posvećeni kolekcionar zaveštao je narodu svoju jedinstvenu umetničku zbirku u koju je uneo „samo one slike koje predstavljaju lične intimne doživljaje slikara“. izložba obuhvata šezdeset osam dela iz njegove kolekcije. Prvi put od otvaranja spomen-zbirke, publika ima mogućnost da van matične zgrade vidi ovako veliki broj umetničkih dela. koncentracija velikih imena umetnika, te poseban segment posvećen ličnosti Pavla Beljanskog, te specijalna postavka za slepe i slabovide, čini ovu izložbu jedinstvenim kulturnim događajem. Info: www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs

P

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

43


E V E N T S

|

festival of New Polish filM

D O G A Đ A

J I

festival NovoG PolJskoG filMa

IN STEP WITH TIME

U KORAK S VREMENOM

13 – 19 October, Cultural Centre of Belgrade he festival of Polish film presents seven films of more recent productions. among those screened will be Marek koterski’s “Day of the wacko”, which is among the best and most popular Polish films of the 21st century. the programme also includes two works by director Jan Jakub kolski: “venice” and “Jasminum”. the little gems of this festival are the animated films of tomasz Baginski and Marek skrobecki. the festival’s programme was developed in cooperation with the embassy of Poland. Info: www.kcb.org.rs

13–19. oktobar, Kulturni centar Beograda estival poljskog filma predstavlja sedam igranih filmova novije produkcije. Biće prikazan „Dan jednog mrguda” Mareka koterskog, koji spada među najbolje i najpopularnije poljske filmove 21. veka. Na programu su i dva ostvarenja reditelja Jana Jakuba kolskog: „venecija” i „Jasminum”. Mali brilijanti ovog festivala su animirani filmovi tomaša Baginjskog i Mareka skrobeckog. Program festivala osmišljen je u saradnji sa ambasadom Poljske. Info: www.kcb.org.rs

43rD BelGraDe Musical festivities – BeMus

43. BeoGraDske MuziČke sveČaNosti – BeMus

“PREMIERE”

“PREMIERE”

15 – 26 October he BeMus festival of artistic music has always presented prestigious music ensembles and major global performers. the festival is opened this year by l’ensemble orchestral de Paris & the accentus choir, which perform music that is rarely available for the public to hear: requiem Gabriel fore and the religious meditation of hector Berlioz (tristia). also announced are concerts of great virtuosos like cellist Mischa Maisky and pianist Boris Berezovsky. according to BeMus tradition, collegium Musicum & Darinka Matic Marovic will make a premiere performance of the music of Milan Mihajlovic. the premiere programme also includes the opera Mileva Einstein which – with a libretto by vida ognjenovic – was composed by alexandra vrebalov. in addition to concerts, the programme includes the performance of Belgium’s circus complicity, which is even more interesting because children with Down’s syndrome comprise part of the troupe. audiences will also see the puppet shows of the zagreb Puppet theatre and the sound theatre for children. the packed concert programme will also see the performances of camerata serbica & aleksandar Markovic, Bojan & the rts ensemble & Bojan sudjic, the st. George strings and violinist robert McDuffie, while top soloists have also been announced at numerous concerts. Info: www.bemus.org

15 –26. oktobar estival umetničke muzike – BeMus uvek je predstavljao poznate muzičke ansamble i velika imena sveta. festival ove godine otvara l’ensemble orchestral De Paris & hor accentus koji izvodi muziku koju publika retko ima priliku da sluša: rekvijem Gabrijela forea i religioznu meditaciju hektora Berlioza (tristia). Najavljeni su i koncerti velikih virtuoza poput violončeliste Miše Majskog i pijaniste Borisa Berezovskog. collegium Musicum & Darinka Matić Marović, po narudžbini BeMus, premijerno izvode muziku Milana Mihajlovića. Na programu premijera je i opera Mileva Ajnštajn, koju je, na libreto vide ognjenović, komponovala aleksandra vrebalov. Pored koncerata, na programu je i jedna predstava belgijskog cirkusa Saučesništvo, koja je zanimljiva i po tome što kao deo trupe nastupaju deca s daunovim sindromom. Publika će videti i lutkarske predstave zagrebačkog kazališta lutaka i zvučnog gledališča za otroke. Na više nego zgusnutom koncertom programu nastupaju i: camerata serbica & aleksandar Marković, ansambli rts & Bojan suđić, Gudači sv. Đorđa & violinista robert Mek Dafi, a na brojnim koncertima najavljeni su i vrhunski solisti. Info: www.bemus.org

th

th

T

th

th

T

44

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

F

F


E V E N T S

|

D O G A Đ A

J I

52Nd OCTOBER SAlON

52. OKTOBARSKi SAlON

20th October – 3rd December he largest international exhibition of contemporary visual arts this year – as underlined by curators galit Eilat from israel and Slovenia’s Alenka gregoric. The keywords around which the concept of the Salon is built are simulation, experiment and reconstruction of events, as well as issues of responsibility, obedience/disobedience and post-trauma in contemporary society. Some of the noted methods of shaping the reality of artists, who deal with performances, film, video or photo, have been commandeered as a vital means of artistic expression. Info: www.octobarskisalon.org & www.kcb.org.rs

20. oktobar – 3. decembar ajveću međunarodnu izložbu savremene vizuelne umetnosti ove godine potpisuju kustoskinje galit Eilat iz izraela i Alenke gregorič iz Slovenije. Ključne reči oko kojih grade koncept Salona su simulacija, eksperiment i rekonstruisanje događaja, te pitanja odgovornosti, poslušnosti/neposlušnosti i posttraume u savremenom društvu. Neke od pomenutih metoda oblikovanja stvarnosti umetnici, koji se bave performansom, filmom, videom ili fotografijom prisvojili su kao vitalna umetnička sredstva izražavanja. Info: www.oktobarskisalon.org i www.kcb.org.rs

SIMULATION, EXPERIMENTATION SIMULACIJA, EKSPERIMENT & RECONSTRUCTION I REKONSTRUKCIJA

T

N

CONCERT

KONCERT

UNDER ONE ROOF

POD JEDNIM KROVOM

27 October, Kolarac Concert Hall he United Nations presents a gala concert, celebrating its 66th anniversary. The concert is filled up with works dedicated to promoting the ideas of freedom, dialogue, unity and peace. A central piece of the program - Under One Roof, commissioned by the UN for this occasion, from the internationally acclaimed Serbian composer Aleksandar Simic, celebrates the cultural and anthropological diversity of our planet.

27. oktobar, Kolarčeva zadužbina beležavajući 66 godina postojanja, Ujedinjene nacije organizuju gala koncert na kojem se izvode dela koja promovišu ideje slobode, dijaloga, jedinsva i mira. Noseće muzičko delo – Pod jednim krovom – komponovao je, posebno za ovu priliku, naš poznat i međunarodno priznat kompozitor Aleksandar Simić, koji svojom muzikom proslavlja kulturnu i antropološku različitost naše planete.

th

T

BElgRAdE BOOK FAiR

O

BEOgRAdSKi SAjAm KNjigA

HOLIDAY OF THE PRINTED WORD PRAZNIK ŠTAMPANE REČI 23rd – 30th October, Belgrade Fair he Belgrade Book Fair is one of the oldest and most important literary events in the region. The fair regular brings together around 800 publishers from Serbia, the wider region of Southeast Europe and the rest of the world on an area of 30,000 square metres of exhibition space. The Fair presents the year’s publishing productions and the whole event plays an outstanding role in promoting domestic literary creations. The Book Fair has honorary guest countries every year, who present their publishing productions. This year will see guest literary presentations by Angola, Brazil and Portugal. Info: www.beogradskisajamknjiga.com; www.sajam.rs

T

23–30. oktobar, Beogradski sajam ajam knjiga jedna je od najstarijih i najvažnijih književnih manifestacija u regionu. Na tridesetak hiljada kvadrata izložbenog prostora redovno se okuplja oko 800 izdavača iz Srbije, regiona jugoistočne Evrope i ostatka sveta. Na Sajmu se predstavlja godišnja izdavačka produkcija, a čitav događaj ima izuzetnu ulogu u promociji domaćeg književnog stvaralaštva. Svake godine Sajam ima počasne goste koji predstavljaju svoju izdavačku produkciju. Ove godine predstaviće se književnost Angole, Brazila i Portugala. Info: www.beogradskisajamknjiga.com; www.sajam.rs

S

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

45


E V E N T S

|

D O G A Đ A

J I

ruGBY leaGue

raGBi liGa

WORLD CUP 2013 QUALIFIERS

KVALIFIKACIJE ZA SVETSKI KUP

23rd & 29th October erbia’s top rugby league players will take on the best from italy, lebanon and russia, as these four nations vie for the final place up for grabs at the 2013 world cup, to be held in england & wales. serbia first hosts italy on 23rd october, a week before Belgrade hosts the group’s final two qualifying matches on 29th october: serbia vs. russia and italy vs. lebanon. all three matches will be played at ada ciganlija’s Police stadium. Info: www.ragbiliga.rs

23. i 29. oktobar ajbolji igrači srpske ragbi lige nadmeću se sa timovima italije, libana i rusije. Dva pobednička tima igraće na svetskom kupu čije se finale održava 2013. godine u velsu. Prva utakmica između srbije i italije igra se 23. oktobra naredne nedelje, 29. oktobra utakmice igraju srbija i rusija, zatim italija i liban. sve tri utakmice se igraju na stadionu Milicionar na Makiškoj strani ade ciganlije. Info: www.ragbiliga.rs

S

27th BelGraDe Jazz festival

N

27. BeoGraDski Džez festival

GLOBAL & LOCAL JAZZ MASTERS SVETSKI I DOMAĆI MAJSTORI DŽEZA 27th – 30th October, Sava Centre and Dom Omladine Belgrade his year’s Jazz festival will open be opened by the Pat Metheny trio’s performance in the main hall of the five sava centre. Pat Metheny is by far the biggest star of this year’s line-up and undoubtedly one of the world’s most respected jazz musicians. Providing space for domestic jazz, the festival is brought to a close by legendary serbian trumpeter and composer Dusko Gojkovic, who celebrates his 80th birthday with this performance. the main programme runs through live and interesting midnight concerts at Dom omladine Youth centre, which present new jazz tendencies and one-off projects. Info: www.belgrade-jazzfest.org; www.domomladine.org

T

46

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

27–30. oktobar, Centar „Sava“ i Dom omladine Beograda vogodišnje izdanje festivala otvoriće Pet Metini trio nastupom u dvorani centra „sava“ . Pet Metini je ubedljivo najveća najavljena zvezda i nesumnjivo jedan od najcenjenijih džez muzičara sveta. Dajući prostora domaćem džezu, festival zatvara naš legendarni trubač i kompozitor Duško Gojković, koji ovim nastupom proslavlja svoj 80. rođendan. Na glavni program nadovezuju se živi i zanimljivi ponoćni koncerti u Domu omladine koji predstavljaju nove džez tendencije i off projekte. Info: www.belgrade-jazzfest.org; www.domomladine.org

O


E V E N T S

|

D O G A Đ A

J I

saDe

ŠaDe

TRIUMPHANT RETURN

TRIJUMFALAN POVRATAK

30th October, Belgrade Arena ne of the most interesting voices of our time, soul and r’n’b singer sade is performing in Belgrade as part of her world tour. after a long absence, sade has returned to the scene. her concerts are often described as two spellbound hours during which sade leads her adoring fans on a journey from one hit to the next. Info: www.arenabeograd.com

30. oktobar, Beogradska arena edan od najzanimljivijih vokala današnjice, soul i r’N’B pevačica Šade u sklopu svoje svetske turneje nastupa i u Beogradu. Posle dužeg odsustvovanja Šade se vratila na scenu. Njeni koncerti često se opisuju kao dva sata čarolije tokom kojih Šade vodi svoje obožavaoce na putovanje od jednog do drugog hita. Info: www.arenabeograd.com

O

J

7th free zoNe filM festival

7. filMski festival – sloBoDNa zoNa

4 – 9 November, Rex Culture Centre he free zone festival shows socially engaged films from around the world and organises interviews with directors, producers and the films’ actors. the public can expect the latest world productions of documentary and feature films, politically and socially engaged films, all created by top, award-winning filmmakers. the festival is part of the network human rights film festivals and is organised by the rex culture centre. Info: www.freezonebelgrade.org.

4–9. novembar, Kulturni centar Rex estival slobodna zona prikazuje angažovane filmove iz celog sveta i prireðuje razgovore sa rediteljima, producentima i akterima filmova. Publiku očekuje najnovija svetska produkcija dokumentarnih i igranih, politički i društveno angažovanih nagraćivanih filmova vrhunskih autora. festival je član mreže festivala filmova o ljudskim pravima. organizator je kulturni centar rex. Info: www.freezonebelgrade.org.

MoNtserrat caBalle

MoNserat kaBalJe

FAREWELL TOUR OF AN ABSOLUTE DIVA

OPROŠTAJNA TURNEJA APSOLUTNE DIVE

ENGAGED IN FILM th

th

T

6th November, Belgrade Arena ontserrat caballe has announced a Belgrade concert as part of her farewell tour. the conductor of her performance will be the famous Jose collado. this is the last chance for the Belgrade public to hear one of the world’s most famous opera singers live, with Montserrat having announced that it’s time to retire at eighty years old. her soprano bel canto is considered one of the most significant in the history of opera. the concert organised by the Belgrade arena and Music star. Info: www.arenabeograd.com

M

ANGAŽOVANI FILM

F

6. novembar, Beogradska arena onserat kabalje, u okviru svoje oproštajne turneje, najavila je koncert u Beogradu. kao dirigent nastupa slavni hoze kolado. ovo je poslednja prilika da publika uživo čuje jednu od najvećih operskih pevačica sveta, jer je Monserat izjavila da joj je, u osamdesetoj godini, vreme da se povuče. Njen bel kanto sopran smatra se jednim od najznačajnijih u istoriji opere. koncert organizuju arena Beograd i Music star. Info: www.arenabeograd.com

M

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

47


I

G

H

T

S

E

E

I

N

G

T

O

U

R

S

photo: Branko Jovanović

S

W

elcome to Belgrade! On these pages we are presenting you with the regular programme of tourist sightseeing in Belgrade and its surroundings. You can get to know the city by walking, riding tour buses, minibuses or the tram system. The city rivers’ sightseeing programme represents a special tourist offer. From these offers you can opt for special cultural-historical tours and programmes that will acquaint you with interesting segments of the tradition of Belgrade. The offer also includes attractive balloon flights, as well as day trips and excursions in the vicinity of Belgrade. Visit the website and information centres of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade for more detailed information and to make reservations. www.tob.co.rs 48

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

D

obrodošli u Beograd! Na ovim stranicama predstavljamo vam redovne programe turističkih razgledanja Beograda i njegove okoline. Grad možete upoznati šetajući, vozeći se turističkim autobisima, minibusevima ili tramvajem. Posebnu ponudu čini program razgedanja grada s reka. Iz ove ponude možete odabrati specijalne kulturnoistorijske ture i programe koji će vas upoznati s zanimljivim segmentima tradicije Beograda. U ponudi su i atraktivni letovi balonima, kao i jednodnevni ture i izleti u blizni Beograda. Posetite internet stranice Turističke organizacije Beograda i Informativne centre za detaljne informacije i rezervacije. www.tob.co.rs


R

A

Z

G

L

E

D

A

TAKING A STROLL THROUGH BELGRADE ŠETNJE BE0GRADOM

N

J

E

G

R

A

D

A

Duration: 90 minutes Bookings: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

STARI ZEMUN

Zemun svojim kulturno-istorijskim spomenicima i tradicionalnom gostoljubivošću prima mnogobrojne posetioce koji uživaju u nacionalnoj kuhinji i prisnoj atmosferi njegovih restorana. Maršruta: Magistratski trg, Gospodska ulica, Opera Medlenianum,Livnica Pantelic, Karamatina (Karamatina kuća), Gardoš, Sinđelićeva, Njegoševa (Crkva Svetog Nikole), Zemunski Kej, Stara kapetanija i Stara carinarnica. Polazak: svake subote u 16h, ispred zgrade Starog magistrata Jezik: srpski-engleski, Trajanje: 90 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 i TIC Zemun, tel. 2192 093

A STROLL THROUGH DOWNTOWN BELGRADE AND BELGRADE FORTRESS

Through this tour you will get to know Downtown, Belgrade Fortress and the largest green belt in Belgrade, Kalemegdan Park. Route: Palace Albanija, Republic Square, Knez Mihailova St., Kralja Petra I St. (National Bank of Serbia, Cafe ”?” – Znak pitanja, Cathedral Church, Patriarchal Court, Residence of Princess Ljubica, Pariska St., Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade Fortress (Upper Town), Artistic Pavilion Cvijeta Zuzorić. Departure: each Saturday in front of Palace Albanija (minimum 5 persons) Language: Serbian (at 11:00) and English (at 13:00) Duration: 120 minute Bookings: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

ŠETNJA KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

Na ovoj turi upoznaćete uže jezgro grada, Beogradsku tvrđavu i najveći zeleni pojas Beograda - park Kalemegdan. Maršruta : Palata Albanija, Trg Republike, Knez Mihailova, Ulica kralja Petra (Narodna banka Srbije, Kafana ?), Saborna crkva, Patrijaršijski dvor, Konak kneginje Ljubice, Pariska ulica, park Kalemegdan, Beogradska tvrđava (Gornji grad), umetnički paviljon Cvijeta Zuzorić. Polazak: svake subote ispred Palate Albanija Jezik: srpki (u 11h) i engleski (u 13h) Trajanje: 120 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

OLD ZEMUN

Zemun with its cultural and historical monuments and traditional hospitality, receives numerous visitors who enjoy the national cuisine and intimate ambience in its numerous restaurants. Route: Old City Hall, Gospodska Street, Madlenianum Theater, Pantelić Foundry, Karamatina (Karamata’s House), Gardoš, Sinđelićeva Street, Njegoševa (Church of St. Nicholas), Zemun Promenade, Old Harbor Master’s and Old CustomsHouse Departure: each Saturday 16:00, in front of the Old City Hall (Stari Magistrat), Language: Serbian-English

AUDIO GUIDE THROUGH BELGRADE FORTRESS

Since early spring 2011, you have been able to meet the Belgrade Fortress on your own, with the help of an audio guide. The guide is available in several languages – Serbian, English, French, Russian, Spanish and German. During a 90 minute-long story, visitors can visit 39 spots within the Belgrade Fortress. Along with the audio device, the visitor will also get a map where all the commented points are marked. The audio guide may be leased in the outer part of Stambol Gate (near the basketball fields of Red Star and Partizan) at a price of 300 dinars, every day from 10.00 am to 6.00 pm. You need a personal ID document to for the lease, and there are also devices that are adjusted for the persons with damaged hearing.

AUDIO VODIČ KROZ BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

Od početka proleća 2011. godine Beogradsku tvrđavu možete upoznati samostalno uz pomoć audio vodiča. Vodič je dostupan na šest jezika - srpskom engleskom, francuskom, ruskom, španskom i nemačkom. Za 90 minuta, koliko je ukupno traje priča, posetioci mogu obići 39 tačaka na Beogradskoj tvrđavi. Uz aparat, posetilac dobija i mapu na kojoj su ucrtane tačke o kojima postoje komentari. Audio vodič se iznajmljuje u spoljašnjoj Stambol kapiji (kod košarkaških terena Zvezde i Partizana) po ceni od 300 dinara, svakog dana od 10.00 do 18.00 h. Za iznajmljivanje aparata potreban je neki lični dokument, a postoje i aparati prilagođeni osobama sa oštećenim sluhom.

BelGuest LETO | SUMMER 2011

49


S

I

G

H

T

S

E

E

SPECIAL CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL TOURS POSEBNE KULTURNO ISTORIJSKE TURE BELGRADE TROUGH BELGRADE CITY MUSEUM(S)

Walking through a city is the best way to feel its rhytm. For that reason we suggest you to turn this tour into an easy walk during which you may visit four museums: Residence of Princess Ljubica, Museum of Paja Jovanović, Museum of Ivo Andrić and Museum of Jovan Cvijić. Tickets for the four museums tour programme cost a total of 200 dinars and can be purchased at the ticket offices of any of the included museums. Information: Belgrade City Museum, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel. 2630-825

KROZ MUZEJ/E/ GRADA BEOGRADA

Najlepši način da se upozna grad, njegov duh, jeste proći kroz njega peške. Zato predlažemo da obilazak Beograda kroz muzej(e) grada Beograda bude lagana šetnja tokom koje mogu da se obiđu 4 muzeja: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Muzej Paje Jovanovića, Muzej Ive Andrića i Muzej Jovana Cvijića. Ulaznice za program obilaska 4 muzeja u kompletu su 200,00 dinars i mogu se kupiti na biletarnicama svakog od pomenutih muzeja. Informacije: Muzej grada Beograda, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel. 2630-825

STROLL THROUGH ANCIENT ROMAN SINGIDUNUM

The remains of once powerful Ancient Roman Singidunum built in the 1st century after Christ are found on the site of the current city. There are only a few Ancient Roman monuments, and the ones that have not been destroyed lie under the modern city. Under our feet, from Republic Square to Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park, are most probably Roman lamps, ceramic dishes, remains of fireplaces, barracks of legionary fortresses, ditches, furnaces, Roman tombs and rampart traces. Route: Republic Square, Vasina St., Student Square, plateau in front of the

50

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

I

N

G

T

O

U

R

S

Faculty of Philosophy, Uzun Mirkova St., Belgrade Fortress (Gallery of Belgrade Fortress, plateau in front of the Victor Monument (overlooking the Southern rampart), Lapidarium beside the Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments of the City of Belgrade, Kalemegdan Park, The Old Gunpowder Depot, Library of the City of Belgrade (Roman Hall), Knez Mihailova St., Čika Ljubina St., Republic Square.


R

A

Z

G

L

E

D

A

N

J

E

G

R

A

D

A

Bookings: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel. 2638 264; Group visits are available throughout the week if announced in advance by phone 3283-504 or by e-mail office@mgb.org.rs.

NA KAFI KOD KNEGINJE LJUBICE

photo: InterGroup Archive

Departure: on Sundays at 11:00, in front of the Monument to Prince Mihailo Language: Serbian-English Duration: 120 minutes Bookings: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

Programom “Na kafi kod kneginje Ljubice” predstavlja se život u Beogradu u vreme vladavine dinastije Obrenović na jedan neuobičajen način. Kustoskinja Muzeja grada Beograda obučena u kostim iz perioda kneginje Ljubice dočekuje posetioce kao domaćica svoje palate. Priča kojom animira publiku je popularna i prilagodjena turističkim turama obilaska muzeja. Pored osnovne istorijske priče saznaćete zanimljive detalje o privatnom životu vladarske porodice. Za ovu priliku otvorena je Divan hana, centralno mesto u Konaku gde su se tradicionalno dočekavili gosti i ispijala kafa. Program: svake subote u 12h, kod Spomenika Knezu Mihailu Jezik: srpski Trajanje: 60 minuta, Cena ulaznice: 250 dinara Prodaja karata: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel. 2638 264; Posete su omogućene tokom cele nedelje, ali ih je neophodno unapred najaviti na tel. 3283-504 ili na office@mgb.org.rs. www.mgb.org.rs

ŠETNJA KROZ ANTIČKI SINGIDUNUM

Današnji Beograd počiva na ostacima nekada moćnog antičkog Singidunuma koji su sagradili Rimljani u 1. veku n. ere. Antičkih spomenika je malo, a oni koji nisu uništeni leže ispod modernog grada. Pod našim stopama, na pravcu od Trga Republike do Beogradske tvrđave i parka Kalemegdan, verovatno se nalaze rimske lampe, keramičke posude, ostaci ognjišta, legionarske barake, rovovi, peći, rimski grobovi i trase bedema. Maršruta: Trg Republike, Vasina ulica, Studentski trg, plato ispred Filozofskog fakulteta, Uzun Mirkova, Beogradska tvrđava (Galerija Beogradske tvrđave, plato kod Spomenika pobedniku (pogled na Južni bedem), lapidarijum pored Zavoda za zaštitu spomenika kulture grada Beograda, park Kalemegdan, Veliki bartni magacin, Biblioteka grada Beograda ( Rimska dvorana), Knez Mihailova, Čika Ljubina ulica, Trg Republike. Polazak: nedeljom u 11h, kod Spomenika Knezu Mihailu Jezik: srpski-engleski Trajanje: 120 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

A COFFEE WITH PRINCESS LJUBICA

“A Coffee with Princess Ljubica“is a special progamme meant to represent the Residence of Princess Ljubica and the life in Belgrade during the rule of the Оbrenović dynasty. A curator of the Belgrade City Museum will meet you as the hostess of the Residence, dressed in the early 19th-century costume. Along with the underlying historical story, you can hear interesting details about the private life of the ruling family. For this occasion, the Divan-khana, the central room in the Residence where guests were received, is open to visitors. Program in English language: on request Duration: 60 minute, Ticket price: 500 dinars

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

51


S

I

G

H

T

S

E

E

I

N

G

T

O

U

R

S

Hotel Accommodation Sightseeing Tours Transfers Business Service Rent-a-car Train, bus & air tickets Complete Service Assistance GUARANTIED DEPARTURES -pick up from hotels CITY TOUR-Daily ,at 10.50,2 Hours with photo stop, OPLENAC-Wed,at 14.00,4 Hours NOVI SAD-Thu, at 14.00,4 hours

www.metropoliten.com www.travelserbiabelgrade.com glob@metropoliten.com

BELGRADE BUS /TRAM/MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEOGRAD IZ AUTOBUSA, TRAMVAJA, MINIBUSA

BELGRADE BUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR

Makenzijeva 26, 11000 Beograd, Srbija Telefoni: (011) 2430-852, (011) 2430-899, (011) 2437-483, (011) 2431-076

Duration: 90 minute guided tour; Tickets are sold onboard city buses Information: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA IZ AUTOBUSA

Upoznajte Beograd krstareći njegovim gradskim ulicama i uživajte u interesantoj priči vodiča o istoriji grada, arhitekturi i životu Beograđana. Kroz ovu turu upoznaćete uže jezgro grada i deo Novog Beograda. Maršruta: Skupština grada Beograda, Dom Narodne skupštine, Terazije, Trg Republike, Studentski trg, Beogradska tvrđava, Varoš kapija, Novi Beograd, Topčidersko brdo, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Trg Slavija, Trg Nikole Pašića Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, nedeljom u 10.00 (Engleski) i u 12.00 (Srpski) Trajanje: 90 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča; Karte se prodaju u autobusu Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

BS TOURS OPEN BUS SIGHTSEEING

Get to know Belgrade by cruising its city streets and enjoy the interesting stories of guides about the history, architecture and life of Belgraders. Through this tour will be familiarized with the narrow core of the city and part of New Belgrade Route: Belgrade City Assembly, National Parliament, Terazije, Republic Square, Studentski Trg, Belgrade Fortress, Varos Gate, New Belgrade, Topcidersko brdo, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Slavija, Nikola Pasic’s Square Departure point: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every Sunday at 10:00 am (in English) and 12:00 noon (Serbian)

52

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

Route: Belgrade City Assembly, National Parliament, Kneza Miloša st., Bul. Mira, Josip Broz Tito Memorial Center, St. Sava Temple, Terazije, Republic Square, Studentski Square, Belgrade Fortress, Varos Gate, New Belgrade Departure point: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every day at 11.00h & 13.00h, except Monday (departure depends upon whether) Duration: 50 - 70 minute guided tour Languages: Serbian, English, French, Russian, German Bookings: BS TOURS - Savski trg 1a; tel. 761 46 93; 668 84 48; www.bstours.rs Information: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

BS TOURS RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA IZ AUTOBUSA SA OTVORENIM KROVOM

Maršruta: Skupština grada Beograda, Dom Narodne skupštine, Kneza Miloša, Bulevar mira, Memorijalni centar Josip Broz Tito, Hram Svetog Save, Terazije, Trg republike, Studentski trg, Beogradska tvrđava, Varoš kapija i Novi Beograd.


R

A

Z

G

L

E

D

A

N

J

E

G

R

A

D

A

Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, svakog dana u 11h i 13h, osim ponedeljkom (polazak zavisi od vremenskih uslova) Trajanje: 50 - 70 min Jezici: Srpski, Engleski, Francuski, Ruski, Nemački Rezervacije i informacije: BS TOURS, Savski trg 1a, tel. 761 46 93; 668 84 48; www.bstours.rs Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

TRAM NAMED BELGRADE

Route: Departure from the tram turntable at Zoo, street Tadeuša Košćuška, Kalemegdan park, port, Karađordjeva street, Nemanjina street, Resavska street, Boulevard of king Aleksandar, monuments of Vuk Stefanović Karadžić, Kealjice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana to Beko. Departure: Friday, from 20 to 21 pm / tours in english; Saturday: from 18 to 19 pm / tours in English Duration: 60 minute guided tour Reservations: Tourist information center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 The program is free of charge; number of places limited - 25 persons

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA MINIBUSOM

Belgrade tram in 1960s

TRAMVAJ ZVANI BEOGRAD

Minibus obilazi atraktivne turističke ambijentalne celine grada. Polazak: hotel Balkan (Prizrenska 2), radnim danima, 10.50 h Trajanje: 180 min Rezervacije: minumum 24h pre polaska Prodaja karata: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Makenzijeva 26, tel. 2439-852, 2430-899, 2437-483, 2431-076, Andre Nikolića 7, tel. 266-2211 www.metropoliten.com; www.travelserbiabelgrade.com

Maršruta: Polazak sa okretnice kod ZOO vrta, ulica Tadeuša Košćuška, stajanje kod Kalemegdana, Pristanište, Karađorđeva ulica pored Železničke stanice, Nemanjina, Resavska, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra do Vukovog spomenika, Kraljice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana do Beka. Polazak: Petak, od 19h do 20h/ tura na srpskom, subota: od 17h do 18h/ tura na srpskom Vreme trajanja: 60 minuta Rezervacije: Turističko informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 Program razgledanja iz tramvaja je besplatan, broj mesta je ograničen na 25 osoba.

MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR

A minibus passes by the main sights of the city. Departure: in front of Balkan Hotel (Prizrenska 2) or Hotel on clients request, weekdays at 10:50 am Duration: three hours Rezervation: at least 24 hours before the schedule departure Tickets: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Makenzijeva 26, tel.2439-852, 2430-899, 2437483, 2431-076, Andre Nikolića 7, tel. 266-2211 www.metropoliten.com; www.travelserbiabelgrade.com

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

53


S

I

G

H

T

S

E

E

BELGRADE BY BICYCLE BEOGRAD BICIKLOM IBIKEBELGRADE TOUR

Professional English-speaking guides will welcome you and take you to the bikes at the Sport Centre 25 May at the Danube within a 10-minute walk. Route: You will enjoy you the rivers Danube and Sava, some architectural highlights of the socialist era of Yugoslavia, the old city of Zemun and the green and beautiful island of Ada with its beach. Departure point: Kneza Mihailova street, in front of the Belgrade City Library, every day of the week at 14.00h Duration: four hours Price: 15€ includes the bike rental, a guided tour, a boat-ride and one free drink during the tour. Information: www.ibikebelgrade.com, tel. 066 900 8386

I

N

G

T

O

U

YAHTING CLUB KEJ

Panoramic sightseeing of the city and cruise with musical program and dinner a la carte. Cruising route: Sports center 25.maj, Horse island, War island, Nebojša tower, Belgrade fortress, Port of Belgrade, St. Sava temple, Branko’s bridge, Railroad bridge. Departure point: Ušće bb, every day at 18:00h and 20:00h (musical program) Duration: 2 hours Informaton: www.klubkej.com, tel, 316-5432, 064 825 1103,

JAHTING KLUB KEJ

Panoramsko razgledanje grada i krstarenja s muzičkim programom i večerom a la carte. Linija plovidbe: Sportski centar 25.maj, Konj ostrvo, Ratno ostrvo, Kula Nebojša, Beogradska tvrđava. luka Beograd, Hram Svetog Save, Brankov most, Železnički most. Polazak: Jahting Klub Kej, Ušće bb, svakog dana u 18:00 h i 20:00 h (Muzički program) Trajanje: 2 sata Informacije: www.klubkej.com, tel. 316-5432, 064 825 1103,

BELGRADE ATTRACTION ATRAKCIJA BEOGRADA AVALA TOWER

TURA IBIKEBELGRADE

54

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

S

BELGRADE FROM RIVERS BEOGRAD SA REKA

Trajanje: 1,5 h Cena karte: 400 din Informacije: www.rtdnautika.co.rs, tel. 261 03 08, 063 345 968

Dočekaće vas profesionalni vodiči koji govore engleski i poželeti vam dobrodošlicu. Za desetk minuta hoda stići ćete do Sportskog centra 25. maj na obali Dunava, gde ćete odabrati bicikl. Maršruta: Uživaćete na obalama Dunava i Save, videćete neke arhitektonske domete iz doba jugoslovenskog socijalizma, staro jezgro Zemuna, lepu zelenu Adu Ciganliju i njene plaže. Polazak: Knez Mihailova ulica ispred zgrade Biblioteke grada Beograda, svakim danom u 14h Trajanje: četiri sata Cena: 15€ uključuje rentiranje bicikla, vodiča, prevoz brodom i jedno besplatno piće Informacije: www.ibikebelgrade.com, tel. 066 900 8386

R

Avala Tower is open throughout the week from 9am to 4pm Ticket prices: 50 dinars for schoolchildren, 100 dinars for adults. Entrance is free for young children and people with disabilities. Info: www.avalskitoranj.rs , tel.3693-251

TORANJ NA AVALI

Avalski toranj toranja je otvoren tokom čitave nedlje od 9 do16 časova Cena ulaznice: 50 dinara za decu školskog uzrasta, za odrasle 100 dinara. Za malu decu I lica sa invaliditetom ulaz je slobodan. Info: www.avalskitoranj.rs tel.3693-251


R

A

Z

G

L

E

D

A

SPECIAL TOURS SPECIJALNE TURE

N

J

E

G

R

A

D

A

Belgrade Zoological Garden is open all year round. Informaton: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org, tel. 26-245-26.

VRT DOBRE NADE

RAKIA TOUR OF BELGRADE

Zoolški vrt se nalazi na malom Kalemegdanu, u okviru najznačajnije ambijentalne celine Beograda- Beogradske tvrđave. Utemeljen je 1936. godine. Uz veliki broj različitih i atraktivnih životinja, kao što su beli lavovi, žirafe, majmuni... Zoolški vrt je mesto na kojem ćete videti brojne skulpture, od kojih su neke posvećene autentičnim herojima iz sveta životinja. Zoolški vrt je otvoren čitave godine Informacije: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org, tel. 26-245-26

BEOGRADSKA RAKIJA TURA

The Jevremovac Botanical Gardens is a monument to nature and a cultural monument of the city. Along with the Institute for Botany, the garden is a teaching unit of the Belgrade Biology Faculty. The botanical garden is home to around 1,000 species of plant and includes a 500m2 glasshouse erected way back in 1892. Duration: One hour Departure point: Major gate of Botanic Garden (Takovska 43) Working hours: 9-19h Informaton: Tel. 3246-655

Tasting of five different kinds of Rakia, served with appropriate snacks, in three different places in Belgrade with services of a professional guide in Serbian, English, French or Italian language Departure: Upon request, from one of Rakia bars Informaton: www.rakiabar.com, tel. 243 88 76, Cell phone 060 031 85 10 Bookings: Reservations are required 24 hours in advance . Minimum six persons, maximum 20 persons. Ukoliko želite da osetite autentučni šarm Beograda i boemsku atmosferu uz organizovanu posetu Rakia barovima, gde uz pratnju stručnog vodiča možete više da saznate o rakiji i Beogradu i probate 5 različitih rakija na tri razlicite lokacije koje se služe uz posebnu vrstu mezetluka koji pojačava i uokviruje sam ukus rakije. Polazak: Po dogovoru, iz jednog od Rakia barova. Informacije: www.rakiabar.com, tel. 243 88 76, Mob: 060 031 85 10 Rezervacije: obavezna je rezervacija 24 sata pre polaska. Minimum 6 osoba, maksimum 20 osoba.

BELGRADE GARDENS: ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN & BOTANICAL GARDEN JEVREMOVAC THE GARDEN OF GOOD HOPE

The Zoological Garden is located in Kalemegdan, a part of the Belgrade Fortress, Belgrade’s most important cultural and historic monument. It was founded in 1936. Along with the great variety of attractive animal residents such as the white lions, giraffes, monkeys, and the cheetah, at the Garden you’ll also see many sculptures, and three of these sculptures are specifically dedicated to the authentic heroes from the animal world.

JEVREMOVAC BOTANICAL GARDENS

BOTANIČKA BAŠTA JEVREMOVAC

Botanička bašta Jevremovac je spomenik prirode i spomenik kulture grada. Ona je zajedno sa Institutom za botaniku nastavna jedinica Biološkog fakulteta u Beogradu. U Botaničkoj bašti se nalazi oko 1.000 biljnih vrsta, a staklena bašta od 500 kvadratnih metara podignuta je još 1892. godine. Trajanje obilaska: 1 sat Polazak: Glavna kapija botaničke bašte (Takovska 43) Radno vreme: 9-19h Informacije: Tel. 3246-655

TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA BEOGRADA WWW.TOB.CO.RS Aerodrom Nikola Tesla 011 2097-828 (ponedeljak – nedelja 8-22h) Knez Mihailova 6 011 3281 159 (ponedeljak - subota 9-21h) Glavna železnička stanica 011 361-2732 (ponedeljak – petak 8-20h; subota i nedelja 8-16 h) Savsko pristanište, Karađorđeva b.b. (april - novembar: ponedeljak – nedelja 8-19 h) Turistički centar Zemun, Zmaj Jovina14 011 2192-094 (ponedeljak - petak 9-15 h, subota 9-13 h) Informativni centar Turističke organizacije Srbije Čika Ljubina 8/I, tel.011 6557 127 (ponedeljak – subota 9-21h )

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

55


INFO: address: Kosmaj, Koracica village, Oglavci 57b Telephone: 0653302419 e-mail: villakosmaj@gmail.com

T O B

r e C O m m e N D s

V i l l a

K O s m a j

A PLACE WITH A VIEW On the southwestern slopes of Mount Kosmaj sits a villa of the same name that’s intended for real relaxation and also offers a variety of recreational activities. Thanks to its location, one can openly say that Villa Kosmaj is in the middle of an air spa, while its unique views, akin to those offered from the “Roof of the World”, cover almost the whole of the Šumadija region.

T

he Tourism Organisation of Belgrade (TOB), in cooperation with the City secretariat for economy, recently promoted Villa Kosmaj resort as part of a joint action to categorise tourism facilities in municipalities belonging to the city’s outskirts. Villa Kosmaj has been ranked with four stars, offering the perfect satisfaction needed for rest, enjoyment, relaxation... The villa is situated on an area of one hectare and also has a tennis court with artificial grass, ensuring that it is suitable for both junior and senior tennis players. The luxuriously furnished house, with pitched roofs of stylish mountain architecture, covers a total area of 200 square metres. The first level has a living room (70 square metres), a kitchen, a bathroom and technical

56

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

facilities, while the gallery boasts two bedrooms and another bathroom. The villa can accommodate up to seven people: four in the two bedrooms on the gallery and three able to sleep in the living room. The house’s spacious adjoining terrace is equipped with a latest generation jacuzzi for four people and covered with a fantastic hand-made pergola. Kosmaj is the closest mountain to Belgrade (with avala lacking a few metres to achieve that status). it is mostly covered with beech trees, oak copses and sporadic conifers. There are clearly trodden paths on the slopes of Kosmaj that are passable and can be used for hiking without a problem. Hiking, walking the Health Trail, fishing, hunting, bird watching, collecting medicinal herbs, cycling...

these are just some of the options from the list of interests and tastes available to guests of the villa. Nearby are three monasteries dating from the time of Despot stefan lazarević, as well as heritage memorials related to the First serbian uprising, a few restaurants with a pleasant atmosphere serving home-cooked food, two outdoor swimming pools, selters Banja spa and markovacko jezero lake. The natural environment of Villa Kosmaj’s site is marked by conifers and greenery and at an altitude of 400 metres it is in perfect unison with the atmosphere of Kosmaj, in direct touch with nature and in perfect peace and harmony. BeLGueSt


T O B

p r e p O r u č u j e

V i l l a

K O s m a j

MESTO SA POGLEDOM Na jugozapadnoj padini planine Kosmaj nalazi se istoimena vila namenjena istinskom odmoru, uz mogućnost raznovrsne rekreacije. Zbog mesta na kojem se nalazi za Villu Kosmaj se slobodno može reći da je vazdušna banja, a njen jedinstveni pogled, pomalo nalik na one sa krovova sveta – obuhvata skoro čitavu Šumadiju.

T

uristička organizacija Beograda je, u saradnji sa sekretarijatom za privredu grada, nedavno promovisala ovaj kompleks, a sve u sklopu njihove zajedničke akcije kategorisanja turističkih objekata u rubnim gradskim opštinama. Villa Kosmaj rangirana je sa četiri zvezdice, i nudi potpuni ugođaj potreban za odmor, uživanje, opuštanje… Vila je smeštena na površini od jednog hektara, na kojoj je takođe napravljen teniski teren čija je podloga od veštačke trave, zbog čega je teren pogodan i za mlađe i za starije tenisere. luksuzno opremljena kuća kosih krovova u stilizovanoj planinskoj arhitekturi ima površinu od ukupno 200 kvadrata. Na prvom nivou su dnevni boravak

(70 kvm), kuhinja, kupatilo i tehnička prostorija, a na galeriji se nalaze dve spavaće sobe i još jedno kupatilo. u vili može da boravi sedmoro ljudi: četvoro u dve spavaće sobe na galeriji i troje u dnevnom boravku. Na ogromnoj terasi, koja se naslanja na kuću, postavljen je đakuzi najnovije generacije za četiri osobe, prekriven fantastičnom pergolom ručne izrade. Kosmaj je planina najbliža Beogradu (avali nedostaje nekoliko metara visine za taj status). Obrasla je mahom bukovom i hrastovom šumom, ponegde četinarima. Na padinama Kosmaja postoje jasno ugažene staze koje su prohodne i bez problema se mogu koristiti za šetnje, pešačenja. staza zdravlja, ribolov, lov, posmatranje ptica, sakupljanje lekovitog

bilja, biciklizam.., samo su neki od sadržaja koji su sa merom interesovanja i ukusa dostupni gostima vile. u neposrednoj blizini su tri manastira, koji potiču iz doba despota stefena lazarevića, te spomenobeležja vezana za prvi srpski ustanak, nekoliko restorana prijatnog ambijenta, u kojima se služi domaća hrana, dva otvorena bazena, selters banja i markovačko jezero. prirodni ambijent placa Ville Kosmaj sa četinarima i zelenilom, na nadmorskoj visini od 400 m savršeno se uklapa u kosmajsku atmosferu neposrednog dodira sa prirodom, kojoj je savršen mir okvir, a harmonija osnovni sadržaj. BeLGueSt

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

57


R e s t a U R a n t

D v a

j e l e n a

( t W o

D e e R )

INFO Restaurant Dva jelena skadarska 32 tel: 3234885 web: www.dvajelena.rs

HIDDEN GIANT OF SKADARSKA STREET The small and intimate bohemian quarter of Skadarlija and its small restaurants and cafés don’t leave the impression that this neighbourhood is hiding one of the biggest restaurants of the former Yugoslavia.

W

ith almost 1,000 seats in seven interior lounges and two terraces, Dva jelena (two Deer) Restaurant is a real Belgrade giant. Its grandness, however, is not only in the dimensions, but in the fact that this is the city’s oldest tavern. Back in 1832 a bakery was opened on this site, while the restaurant has existed since 1867. You enter Dva jelena through massive, beautifully carved wooden doors. all you can see from the outside is a single storey building with high ceilings and four rows of windows. that’s why customers are quite surprised when they enter the warmly lit lounge with beautiful old rugs and solid wood. a long sideboard cabinet and a guest book with thick leather covers indicate that the guests here are treated in a different way. the guest book includes japanese letters intertwined with romantic messages of Belgrade newly-weds and witty quota-

58

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

tions from the time of the Yugoslav wars. I remember what it was like when I left the entrance lounge, which up until then I’d thought was the whole restaurant, only to enter the grand hall. stained glass, 10-metre high ceilings, seeming cubic kilometres of wood, tamburitza players and an actress reciting all contrived to create an atmosphere as if I had walked into a pleasant movie that I wanted to stay in for as long as possible. Big company, long tables and surprisingly good food were the first impression that I took from this extraordinary place. Margaret thatcher and Marshall tito had eaten in these halls. the restaurant’s booths are in the lower lounge, all made of wood carved with hunting motifs. above is the lounge with booths, while on the top level there are three separate lounges. one of them contains a particularly beautiful stained glass window. the summer garden is slightly raised above the

level of skadarska street and the hubbub of passersby and the sounds of music coming from the street are just another flavour of the ambience and enjoyment of food. nibbling the best prosciutto that I’ve tasted in Belgrade, I watched the shifts of music with instruments. a bass was propped against one of the freshly painted pillars, saturated by the scents from the kitchen, where ten cooks worked according to recipe books from the 1920s. the pleasantly tired bass was bidding farewell to the day, while gentle lanterns specially made for this protected heritage building were lit. leaning on a comfortable leather sofa with a view of the simple al fresco naïve paintings, I realised that an intimate atmosphere where one feels especially good can be found even in a place that represents one of the landmarks of Belgrade. Andrej KLemenCiC


R

e

s

t

o

R

a

n

D

v

a

j

e

l

e

n

a

PRIKRIVENI VELIKAN SKADARSKE ULICE Mala i intimna četvrt Skadarlija i njeni restorančići i kafanice nikako ne odaju utisak da je među njima sakriven najveći restoran u bivšoj Jugoslaviji.

S

a skoro 1000 mesta u sedam unutrašnjih salona i dve terase, restoran Dva Jelena je pravi beogradski gigant. njegova velelepnost se, pak, ne odražava samo u gabaritima, već i u činjenici da je ovo najstarija gradska kafana. još 1832. godine na ovom mestu je bila otvorena pekara, a restoran postoji od 1867. godine. U Dva jelena se ulazi kroz masivna lepo rezbarena drvena vrata. sve što se iz vana vidi je plava jednospratnica visokih plafona sa četiri

reda prozora. Upravo zbog toga gost je nemalo iznenađen kada uđe u toplo osvetljeni salon lepih starih sagova i punog drveta. Dugačak garderobni pult i na njemu knjiga utisaka sa debelim kožnim koricama ukazuju da se ovde gostu posvećuju na drugačiji način. U knjizi gostiju japanske pismenke prepliću se sa romantičnim porukama beogradskih mladenaca i duhovitim citatima iz vremena jugoslovenskih ratova. sećam se kako je bilo kada sam iz ulaznog salona, za koji sam do tada mislio da je sav restoran, stupio u veliku dvoranu. vitraži, 10-metarski strop, kubni kilometri drveta, tamburaši i recitatorka stvorili su atmosferu kao da sam ušao u prijatan film u kojem želim što duže da ostanem. velika društva, dugački stolovi i iznenađujuće dobra hrana bili su prvi utisak koji sam poneo sa ovog impresivnog mesta. U ovim salama jeli su i Margaret tačer i maršal tito. njegov separe je donji salon restorana, sav od drveta rezbarenog lovačkim motivima. Iznad je salon sa separeima, a na gornjem nivou tri zasebna

salona. U jednom od njih je posebno lep vitraž. letnja bašta je malo uzdignita iznad nivoa skadarske, a žamor šetača i zvuci muzike koji dopiru s ulice samo su još jedan začin užitku u ambijentu i hrani. Grickajući najbolju pršutu koju sam u Beogradu probao, gledao sam kako se smenjuju muzike sa instrumentima. na jedan od sveže ofarbanih stubova bio je naslonjen kontrabas obavijen mirisom kuhinje, gde je deset kuvara kuvalo po knjigama recepata iz dvadesetih godina prošlog veka. Prijatno umorni kontrabas ispratio je dan, upalili su se nežni fenjeri, posebno pravljeni za ovo spomenički zaštićeno zdanje. naslonjen na udobnu kožnu garnituru sa pogledom na jednostavne al fresco slikarije naivaca, shvatio sam da i na mestu koje je jedan od turističkih simbola Beograda može da se stvori intimna atmosfera u kojoj se čovek oseća posebno dobro. Andrej KLemenčič

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

59


N O V I S A D

- C I T Y O F C O N G R E S S TO U R I S M

LET’S MEET IN NOVI SAD 60

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

During the past year Novi Sad has launched a regional initiative to position itself as one of the leading cities for congress tourism. Its capacity lies in the fact that it is the only city in this part of Europe that has its own congress centre despite not being a national capital and is also a significant economic and academic hub.


N

ovi Sad is traditionally recognised as a centre of agriculture, with the Novi Sad Agriculture Fair having represented the key annual business and tourism event for decades. However, Novi Sad is also an academic centre, where the international activity of the city’s university and several institutes offers the possibility to organise some important scientific conferences right here. The Novi Sad Fair constructed a Master Congress Centre with a capacity that makes this city very convenient for the organisation of national and

international conferences. The Master Centre’s halls can accommodate business meetings or conferences with up to 1,000 delegates and the fair area offers the possibility for such events to be accompanied by an appropriate exhibition. The Master Congress Centre is the focal point that can contribute as a congress destination - with its active approach to the development of Novi Sad to the growing number of business visitors, which also equates to greater demand for hotel beds.

A WELL-ROUNDED OFFER Hotel facilities are being developed and over the last few years some new accommodation facilities have emerged. In addition to Hotel Park, which has long been the backbone of the city’s convention and hotel industry, a number of smaller hotels, designed primarily for business guests, have opened. These include the President Best Western Hotel, Hotel Master and Hotel Centar. With already well-known hotels, such as Sajam, Novi Sad, or Putnik offering accommodation categories

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

61


Entrance lobby of the Novi Sad Fair and Master Centre

from three to five stars, the hotel offer in Novi Sad is now well-rounded. One of the biggest investments in the hotel business is currently underway in Novi Sad and the latest Holiday Inn is expected to open as early as next year, prompting the interest of other major hotel chains in appearing in Novi Sad. The Master Congress Centre and hotels located in the surrounding area already comprise the business district of the city, which is suitable for the easy and

simple organisation of congresses and business meetings. The close proximity of the city centre, Petrovaradin Fortress, the Danube and the Danube taverns allows conference delegates to relax and feel the spirit of this charming central European city that boasts many opportunities for enjoyment and relaxation. A one-day tour of Mount Fruska Gora and Sremski Karlovci will familiarise them with the cultural and historical significance of Novi

Hotel Prezident

62

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

Sad, while the neighbouring farmsteads will present them with the secrets of Vojvodina’s cuisine. LET’s MEET iN NOVi sAD The Tourism Organisation of Novi Sad (TONS) has recognised these possibilities and has launched a project with the help of the USAID Competitiveness Project. The project is aimed at gathering and presenting the congress tourism potential of Novi Sad. A programme has been developed to enable the partnership of TONS and major representatives of the economy of Novi Sad. A website presenting the opportunities for conferences and business meetings will soon be available, while a catalogue with the overall conference offer, entitled “Let’s Meet in Novi Sad”, has already been printed. Domestic and international conference organisers will be able to recognise the possibility of organising their events in Novi Sad and any further information required will be available via TONS. Within the context of this project, TONS became a member of the International Congress and Convention Association (ICCA). The leading business association in the conference business, ICCA provides opportunities for education and access to a databases containing information on


HIGH FREQUENCY COMMUNICATION We asked Jadranka Beljan-Balaban, director of the Tourism Organisation of Novi Sad, TONS, to further clarify long-term and short-term plans for the development of Novi Sad as a congress destination. “Our congress bureau is in daily communication with a range of congress industry partners. This is a complex activity that requires a high degree of cooperation and coordination. We want the quality of our complete range of services to be at a high level. Only in that way will our city gain a better and better image on the international market. “As members of the ICCA, we are highly active on the international seen and are learning from the good examples of other congress bureaus and destination cities. We think in a market and marketing way. As such, all of our initiatives at this moment are aimed at promoting and positioning the city of Novi Sad on the international congress market’s capacities. “Since April this year we have carried out the organising of seven major international conferences and summits and are cooperating more intensively with the Novi Sad University. That is why the praise we receive from academics and scientists is particularly important to us: I am sure that the combining of tourism organisations and universities in the organisation of such events will be to the benefit of everyone in our area, wrote Silvia Gilezan for us on behalf of the organising committee of the RDP 2011 Conference. These and similar sentiments that we receive are the best sign that we are on the right track,” concludes the TONS director. international congresses, as well which destinations can apply to be hosts. The goal is for Novi Sad to apply to host major European congresses, in cooperation with the congress industry and

leading professors or doctors active in international associations. In that way the city would gain an image as a significant commercial and scientific centre, while additional spending

would generate extra revenue for the local economy. The development of Novi Sad as a congress destination will contribute to Serbia becoming more recognisable as a country on the congress map, because there will be another destination appearing in the world rankings alongside Belgrade. The ICCA actually ranked Novi Sad among the 300 most important congress destinations for the first time last year. The city is currently ranked 21st in Eastern Europe, on a par with cities such as Portoroz, Bratislava, Poznan, Wroclaw, Brno. It is to be expected that further organised work and the presentation of the destination will enable Novi Sad to position itself as one of the preferred places for organising meetings in Serbia and that this will be done through the joint efforts of representatives of the city administration, the congress business and the academic sector. BeLGueSt photographs: TONS & Master Congress Centre archive

Master Congress Centre, Meeting of ISO/TC

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

63


NOVI S A D - G R AD KONGR E SNOG T UR IZMA

SUSRETNIMO SE U NOVOM SADU Novi Sad je u protekloj godini započeo inicijativu da se u regionu postavi kao jedan od vodećih gradova u kongresnom turizmu. Jedini je u ovom kraju Evrope koji iako nije glavni grad ima kongresni centar, a uz to predstavlja značajan privredni i akademski centar.

N

ovi Sad se tradicionalno prepoznaje kao mesto koje je centar poljoprivrede, a ključni poslovni i turistički događaj već decenijama je Novosadski sajam poljoprivrede. Međutim, Novi Sad je i akademski centar, gde međunarodna aktivnost Univerziteta i nekoliko instituta pruža mogućnosti da se značajni naučni skupovi organizuju baš tu. Upravo je Novosadski sajam izgradio Master kongresni centar, koji svojim kapacitetima čini taj grad veoma pogodnim za organizaciju domaćih i međunarodnih skupova. U salama Master centra mogu se organizovati poslovni skup ili kongres za do 1.000 delegata, a sajamski prostor nudi

64

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

mogućnost da takav događaj bude praćen i primerenom izložbom. Master kongresni centar ključno je mesto, koje svojim aktivnim pristupom u razvoju Novog Sada kao kongresne destinacije može da doprinese porastu broja poslovnih posetilaca, a time i većoj popunjenosti hotelskih kapaciteta. ZAOKRUŽENA PONUDA Hotelska ponuda se razvija, pa su se poslednjih godina pojavili novi smeštajni kapaciteti. Pored hotela Park, koji već godinama čini okosnicu i kongresne i hotelske industrije u ovom gradu, otvoren je čitav niz manjih hotela, koji su namenjenim pre svega poslovnim gostima, a među

njima su: Prezident Best Western, hotel Master, hotel Centar. Uz neke već poznate hotele, kao što su Sajam, Novi Sad ili Putnik, ponuda smeštajnih kapaciteta kategorije od tri do pet zvezdica prilično je zaokružena. Trenutno je u Novom Sadu aktuelna i jedna od najvećih investicija u hotelijerstvu i već naredne godine se očekuje da se otvori najnoviji Holiday Inn, koji će znatnije probuditi interesovanje hotelskih lanaca da se pojave u Novom Sadu. Master kongresni centar i hoteli koji se nalaze u njegovoj okolini već čine poslovni deo grada koji je pogodan za laku i jednostavnu organizaciju kongresa i poslovnih skupova. Blizina centra grada, Petrovaradinske tvrđave, Dunava i dunavskih čardi


KOMUNIKCIJA VISOKE FREKVENCIJE Pitali smo Jadranku Beljan Balaban, direktorku Turističke organizacije Novog Sada, da nam dodatno pojasni dugoročne i kratkoročne planove razvoja Novog Sada kao kongresne destinacije. „Naš kongresni biro svakodnevno komunicira sa nizom različitih partnera u kongresnoj industriji. Reč je o složenoj delatnosti koja zahteva visok stepen saradnje i koordinacije. Želimo da kvalitet ukupne usluge bude na visokom nivou. Samo tako će naš grad sticati sve bolji i bolji imidž na međunarodnom tržištu. Kao članovi ICCA agilni smo na međunarodnom planu i učimo na dobrim primerima drugih kongresnih biroa i destinacija. Razmišljamo tržišno i marketinški. Zato su, u ovom trenutku, sve naše inicijative usmerene na promovisanje i pozicioniranje grada Novog Sada na međunarodnom tržištu kongresnih kapaciteta. - Od aprila ove godine organizaciono smo ispratili sedam većih međunarodnih konferencija i skupova. Intenzivnije sarađujemo sa Univerziteom. Zato su nam naročito važne pohvale koje dobijamo od univerzitetskih radnika i naučnika: Sigurna sam da će sprega turističke organizacije i Univerziteta u organizaciji ovakvih događaja biti na dobrobit svih u našem okruženju - napisala nam je Silvia Gilezan u ime organizacionog odbora konferencije RDP 2011. godine. Ove i slične pohvale koje nam stižu najbolji su znak da smo na dobrom putu”, zaključuje direktorka TONS.

Master Congress Centre pruža mogućnost da se kongresni delegati opuste i osete duh šarmantnog srednjoevropskog grada, u kojem postoje brojne mogućnosti za uživanje i odmor. Jednodnevna tura do Fruške gore i Sremskih Karlovaca približiće im kulturni i istorijski značaj Novog Sada, a okolni salaši će ih uputiti u tajne vojvođanske kuhinje.

Međunarodne asocijacije kongresne industrije – ICCA (International Congress and Convention Association). Reč je o vodećoj asocijaciji u kongresnom biznisu, koja omogućava edukaciju i pristup bazama podataka u kojima se nalaze informacije o međunarodnim kongresima i za koje destinacija može da se kandiduje. Cilj je da, u saradnji sa kongresnom industrijom i vodećim profesorima ili doktorima koji su aktivni u međunarodnim asocijacijama, Novi Sad podnese kandidaturu za domaćina značajnih evropskih kongresa. Na taj način će grad postati značajni poslovni i naučni centar, a i privreda će ostvariti prihode od vanpansionske potrošnje. Rast Novog Sada kao kongresne destinacije doprineće tome da Srbija kao zemlja bude

među vodećima na kongresnoj mapi, jer će, pored Beograda, imati još jednu destinaciju prepoznatljivu na svetskim rang-listama. Upravo je na ICCA rang-listi prošle godine Novi Sad prvi put bio među 300 najznačajnijih kongresnih destinacija. Trenutno je na 21. mestu u istočnoj Evropi, u rangu sa gradovima kao što su Portorož, Bratislava, Poznan, Vroclav, Brno. Može se očekivati da će daljim organizovanim radom i predstavljanjem Novi Sad uspeti da se postavi kao jedno od omiljenih mesta za organizaciju skupova u Srbiji i da će na tom poslu zajednički raditi predstavnici gradske uprave, kongresne privrede i akademskog sektora. BeLGueSt fotografije: Arhiva TONS i kongresnog centra Master

One of the halls of the Master Congress Centre

KORACi KA UsPONU Turistička organizacija Novog Sada (TONS) prepoznala je ove mogućnosti i, uz pomoć USAID Projekta za razvoj konkurentnosti, pokrenula je projekat čiji je cilj da se okupe i predstave kongresne mogućnosti Novog Sada. Kreiran je program kojim se ostvaruju partnerski odnosi između TONS i najznačajnijih predstavnika kongresne privrede u Novom Sadu. Uskoro će biti postavljen i web site, koji će predočiti mogućnosti za organizaciju kongresa i poslovnih skupova, a već je odštampan katalog kongresne ponude sa nazivom „Meet in Novi Sad“ (Susretnimo se u Novom Sadu). Domaći i međunarodni organizatori skupova će u tim materijalima prepoznati mogućnosti da svoje skupove organizuju u Novom Sadu, a u TONS će moći da dobiju sve dalje potrebne informacije. U okviru ovog projekta TONS je postao i član

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

65


INfO | NOVI SAD TOURisT ORgANiZATiON NOVi sAD Modene 1, 21000 Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 421 811, +381 21 66 17 343 Fax: +381 21 451 481 tons@turizamns.rs, info@turizamns.rs www.turizamns.rs MUsEUMs THE MUsEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVi sAD Petrovaradinska tvrđava Tel: +381 21 64 33 145 , 64 33 613 muzgns@eunet.rs www.museumns.rs THE MUsEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVi sAD – FOREigN ART COLLECTiON Dunavska 29 Tel: +382 21 451 239 muzgns@eunet.rs www.museumns.rs THE MUsEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVi sAD – THE HOMELAND MUsEUM sREMsKi KARLOVCi Patrijarha Rajačića 16, Sremski Karlovci Tel: +381 21 881 637 muzejsrkarlovci@gmail.com THE MUsEUM OF VOJVODiNA Dunavska 35,Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 420 566, 526 555 muzejvojvodine3@nscable.net www.muzejvojvodine.org.rs POZORiŠNi MUZEJ VOJVODiNE Kralja Aleksandra 5, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 66 13 322 info@pmv.org.rs www.pmv.org.rs THE MUsEUM OF CONTEMPORARY FiNE ART Jevrejska 21, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 66 13 897, 66 11 463, 66 13 526 msluns@eunet.rs www.msuv.org

66

THE iNsTiTUTE OF THE PROTECTiON OF NATURE iN sERBiA, NOVi sAD Radnička 20a, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 48 96 305, 48 96 302 novi-sad@natureprotection.org.rs www.natureprotection.org.rs gALLERiEs MATiCA sRPsKA gALLERY Trg galerija 1, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 48 99 000 galerijamaticesrpske@sbb.rs www.galerijamaticesrpske.rs THE MEMORiAL COLLECTiON OF PAVLE BELJANsKi Trg galerije 2, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 528 185 kontakt@pavle-beljanski.museum www.pavle-beljanski.museum FiNE ART gALLERY – MEMORiAL COLLECTiON OF RAJKO MAMUZiĆ Vase Stajića 1, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 520 467, 520 223 glurm@nadlanu.com www.galerijamamuzic.org.rs COUNTRY REsTORANTs (sALAŠi) sALAŠ 137 Međunarodni put 137, Čenej Tel: +381 21 714 505, +381 21 714 501, +381 62 773 137 www.salas137.rs info@salas137.rs sALAŠ 84 Stari žabaljski put Tel: +381 21 445 993, +381 21 6411229 salas84@neobee.net www.salas84.rs NAŠ sALAŠ Međunarodni put 325, Čenej Tel: +381 21 714 704, +381 64 873 91 01 nas.salas@eunet.rs www.nassalas.co.rs

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

HOTELs 5* PARK Novosadskog sajma 35 Tel: +381 21 4888 888 Fax: +381 21 4888 885 info@hotelparkns.com www.hotelparkns.com 5* LEOPOLD i Petrovadinska tvrdjava Tel: +381 21 488 7878 Fax: +381 21 4887 877 office@leopoldns.com www.leopoldns.com 5* BEsT WEsTERN PREZiDENT Futoški put 109 Tel: +381 21 487 74 44 Fax: +381 21 662 43 33 reservations@presidenthotel.com www.presidenthotel.com 4* gYMNAs Teodora Pavlovića 28 Tel: +381 21 467 710 Fax: +381 21 474 07 04 gymnas@neobee.net www.gymnas.co.rs 4* MAsTER Braće Popović bb Tel: +381 21 48 78 700 Fax: +381 21 48 78 777 rezervacije@a-hotel-master.com www.a-hotel-master.com 3* sAJAM Hajduk Veljkova 11 Tel: +381 21 420-266 Fax: +381 21 420-266 htpsajam@eunet .rs www.hotelsajam.co.rs 3* VOJVODiNA Trg Slobode 2 Tel: +381 21 6622 122 Fax: +381 21 66 15 445 recepcija@hotelvojvodina.rs www.hotelvojvodina.rs 3* NOVi sAD Bulevar Jaše Tomića bb Tel: +381 21 442-511 Fax: +381 21 443-072 hupns@neobee.net www.hotelnovisad.rs

3* NORCEV Elektrovojvodina, Iriški venac, Partizanski put bb Tel: +381 21 48 00 222 Fax: +381 21 48 00 256 norcev@oiu.co.rs www.norcev.rs 3* ZENiT Zmaj Jovina 10 Tel: +381 21 66 21 444 Fax: +381 21 6621 327 info@hotelzenit.rs www.hotelzenit..rs 3* PANORAMA Futoška 1a Tel: +381 21 4801 800 panorama@neobee.net www.hotelpanorama.co.rs 3* ELiTE Bulevar Jovana Dučića 35 Tel: +381 21 488 5888 Fax: +381 21 488 5889 office@elitecentar.rs www.hotelelite.rs 2* MEDiTERANEO Ilije Ognjanovića 10 Tel: +381 21 427 135 Fax: +381 21 6622 966 mediteraneo@sbb.rs www.hotelmediteraneo.rs 2* RiMsKi Jovana Cvijića 26 Tel: +381 21 443-237 Fax: +381 21 444-756 office@rimski.co.rs www.rimski.co.rs 1*AURORA Beogradski kej 49, Tel: +381 21 487 14 00 Fax: +381 21 540 869 office@hotelaurora.rs www.hotelaurora.rs ARTA BOUTiQE HOTEL Heroja Pinkija 12 Tel: +381 21 68 04 500 office@boutiquehotelarta.rs www.boutiquhotelarta.rs


BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

67


View over the Iron Gate of Djerdap

68

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest


TOS ReCOMMeNDS – DjeRDAP IRON GATe NATIONAL PARK

DJERDAP SMILE & A DANCE ON THE WIND The Danube at Golubac is as vast as a sea and it’s truly wondrous how the river pumps all of its immense waters deep between the mountains. The entranceway to the gorge, behind which begins the fantastic world and landscapes of the national park, is guarded by the towers of Golubac Fortress. The road runs right beside the bank of the Danube, while signposts announce the wonderful locations of this region: Europe’s oldest urban settlement, stone landmarks of the Roman Limes, panoramic viewing points, beautiful small towns, forests and an architectural colossus of the 20th century – the Djerdap Iron Gate hydroelectric plants 1 and 2.

W

e set off as agreed with the Tourism Organisation of Serbia, which is seeking to more closely acquaint the public with the National Park and at the same time promote one of its gems – the Lepenski Vir archaeological site and its newly opened Visitor Centre. We are not going to be exploring alone, as guests of the National Park’s administration we’ve been issued a guide. We started the day before, but we’re not rushing anywhere. We slowly drive through the regions of northeast Serbia. TRANSFORMING GREAT WATERS The introduction to the catalogue of scenes of the world of Djerdap’s Iron Gate is the picture of the medieval Golubac town. The high white towers and walls are along steep cliffs beside the very shore of the Danube. The silhouette of the fortress is reflected in the quiet, high waters – at this spot the Danube is a full seven kilometres wide, but immediately behind these walls this huge expanse of water suddenly disappears. entering this narrow section, the river becomes suppressed and silent; its power hidden and mystical, just like its depths. jacques Cousteau, famous explorer of the underwater world, measured the depth of the Djerdap chasm and at a place called Gospodjin Vir the river bottom is located at a depth of 90 metres! The Iron Gate Gorge is not only the deepest, but also the biggest river canyon in europe – a total of 100 kilometres long. The Romans gave it a name that says a lot about its temperament. They called it the Iron Gate, while the modern Serbian name of Djerdap has its roots in the ancient Persian word ‘girdap’ which means whirlpool, vortex.

Grey Hawk, photo: Zoran Milovanović “The word Danube means river or water in the Celtic language. According to tradition, Achilles’ spring runs through the third part of the Danube, known as Ishtar, after the god of water ... Herodotus, the father of history, sailed the Danube when it was called Ishtar. jason and his Argonauts also sailed its waters in search of the Golden

Fleece,” so read parts of the National Park guide recounting the river’s mythical past. TWO FRIENDS OF ROMANIA In our dimension the time has come for a break. We are looking for a place on the bank when we find a pretty, clean restaurant with a terrace

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

69


overlooking the river. Here, “Kod Tome”, the view of the Danube is framed by weeping willow trees. From the restaurant’s terrace we become aware of the proximity of neighbouring Romania. We can clearly see details on the opposite bank and the story begins of the unique phenomenon of our history - Romania is the only country with which we share a border and with whom we have always lived in peace. Along the way we hear from Marta, a Romanian student and girlfriend of our photographer Darimir, who tells us stories about the culture of Romania, which we know very little about indeed. Marta describes for us the historical portrait of the Dacian King Decebalus, who Romanians consider as one of the founders of their nation. His figure is carved on one of the gorge’s huge cliffs, which will see up close later. Martha also tells us about their popular national saying that claims: Romanians have only two friends – the Serbs and the Black Sea! THE NEW LIFE OF LEPENSKI VIR Our next destination is the prehistoric Lepenski Vir site. It was discovered by chance by archaeologist Professor Dragoslav Srejovic in the 1960s, during the extensive excavations that preceded the construction of the dam. Findings on this site fundamentally changed the existing contemporary

70

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

wisdom regarding the roots of civilization. The site was raised to a higher level due to flooding, but it remained for almost half a century under the low roof of a temporary protective structure. Under such conditions it proved extremely difficult to convince

visitors that they were looking at the important discoveries of a unique culture that knew about geometry more than 9,000 years ago. Raising new constructions over the site, which contain a spectrum of contents designed for visitors to Lepenski Vir, removed the “deposited dust” of many years of neglect and before us, in all its glory, appears the new impressive, spacious and white building of the visitors centre. Lepenski Vir received the dignity it deserves. We have published a text about this site, its culture and the centre’s builders as a special section of this reportage. THE TALES OF THE CAPTAIN & THE TREE At dusk we set out to Captain Misa’s Hill – our hosts have reserved accommodation for us there. This ethno complex on a hill is named after the great Serbian philanthropist Misa Anastasijevic and its open-air gallery, “Man, Wood and Water”, deserves it own special story. We are awaited at the village gate by our hostess and her grandson Mateja, who is followed in his tracks by a ginger cat called Izi. We pass along wide grassy path lined and framed by plum trees and flowers. On the horizon there is only a little light remaining. We reach another large gate which, with all its breadth, reveals the greatest treasure of this place – a panoramic view of the Danube and the bay in which


the town of Donji Milanovac is located. We sit in a threshing barn and, accompanied by homemade honey brandy, we observe the river and the hill as they sink into darkness. The host of the complex is not home, but in his absence he is replaced by Mateja. With boyish enthusiasm he tells us about Captain Misha, who was born in the nearby town of Porec and gained great wealth by trading salt and deer antlers. He tells us that deer antlers were extremely valuable at that time. european gentlemen felt that the reputation of their homes depended on such trophies, which suited Captain Misha because then, as now, Djerdap offered game animals in abundance. We did not check the boy’s story, as it was told with the kind of zeal that leaves no room for doubt. He adds that the captain overlooked his merchant ships from this very place. The area of the ethno complex was actually designed by Mateja’s grandfather. Struggling with anxiety, he walked the forests of Oman and Miroc, collecting stumps, branches and bark that had interesting and beautiful forms. Then he would clean and arrange them in his garden. This resulted in his now large collection, “Man, Wood and Water”. THERE, WHERE THE DANUBE STEAMS In the morning, as agreed, our guide Zoran Milovanovic arrives. A biologist by training and an expert on birds, he tells us about everything

that is planned for the day. We set off in a Lada all-terrain vehicle through one of the reserves that are home to the renowned Great and Small Strbac vantage points. Along the way Zoran evokes the vastness of the park, which consists of small special units. We realise that we will only be able to see selected parts of Djerdap’s Iron Gate. We had down to the regional road and stop at a place from where one can see the Kazan (Cauldron) – a narrow notch between the cliffs where the Danube’s waters are compressed as though in a deep pot. At this point the river is

at its narrowest – barely 140 metres across. We then set off to Great Strbac, a cliff top vantage point that best reveals the incision of the Kazan and the canyon. We walk along marked trails that pass through deciduous forests. As a biologist, Zoran draws our attention to the Turkish hazel – a tree with bark like fish scales and which is classed as a protected and relict species of Djerdap. We discover the names of other “refugee” plants that have found their safe haven here. We arrive at the tailored, fenced terrace of the viewing point. At first we do not see well,

Kovilovo viewing point

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

71


INFO Djerdap National Park Kralja Petra I 14a 19220 Donji Milanovac tel: + 381 (0)30 590 788 www.npdjerdap.org

WHAT OTHER ATTRACTIVE SITES COULD YOU SEE

Only a few kilometres from Majdanpek is Rajko’s Cave, with its magnificent caverns. Rajko, according to legend, was a highwayman and chieftain who hid here and looted treasures. Pretty cave jewellery, sparkling white and reminiscent of an icy winter landscape and indented like a bathtub, make this an attractive cave to visit. In this area you can also see the Beg Well Waterfall, the Blederijski Waterfall, the White Spring Rapids and the imposing Vratna Gates natural stone bridges. feels as though it is floating; sailing boats anchored in the bay of the Hajduk Watermill look like matches, the carved face of King Decebalus in the rock is barely visible and the expanse is never-ending. For the first time we see the large and small bays that house the resort towns on the Romanian side of the river. The scene reminds me of fjord-like Kotor Bay, which poet Aleksa Santic described as “the Bride of the Adriatic”. The landscape here is so steep and green that it resembles the coast of Ireland. However, it would be nice if a gifted poet also came to this region to paint all of this beauty with words and save us from having to borrow epithets. ROMAN LIMES & THE DANUBE’S SOUL We descend to the place where Djerdap hawks and white tailed eagles live. We stop at a nicely landscaped rest area beside the river. A cyclist dressed in bright red-orange colours approaches us along the gentle slope. In a moment he is joined by a woman. We approach and ask them where they are from. They explain that they are a married couple from Germany and have come here via Budapest and Mount Mokra Gora. Their distance gauges show almost four-digit numbers. On the way to Kladovo we meet many more two-wheeled riders – pan-European cycle route Euro Velo 6, connecting the Atlantic and the Black Sea, passes through the Djerdap National Park. The day is in its peak and our host, Zoran, has planned a break at Tekija and selected a riverside restaurant belong-

because part of the view is obscured by forest, but only half a step out of the tree canopy the scene opens up to reveal the dramatic landscape in which the river wrestles victoriously with the rocks. We watch in silence. BRIDE OF THE DANUBE On the other side of the panel, which houses one of the national park’s centres of hunting tourism,

72

SUMMER | LETO 2011 BelGuest

we return to the main road and, after a short drive, turn again to the hills, following the signposts that read ‘Mali Strbac’. As we have already been to the ‘Great’ Strbac, we approach the ‘Small’ Strbac with no particular expectations. Through karst sinkholes we ascend towards the rocky peak. We are instinctively taken aback as we are confronted by the view of the landscape that has opened up at the very edge of the rocks. The cliff is virtually vertical and

CENTRE OF HUNTING AND FISHING TOURISM

The Djerdap Iron Gate National Park is known as a rich hunting ground. Its centennial oak and beech forests are home to roebuck, deer, wild boar, marten, rabbit etc. Wild game here is cautious, which means that hunting here “has the qualities of a real primal experience,” reads the National Park guide. Fish are also plentiful: catfish, perch, pike, sturgeon, carp – a total of 56 species of fish provide a great challenge for anglers.


REGIONAL TOURISM OFFER

The Tourism Organisation of Majdanpek has a modern-equipped information centre in Donji Milanovac with a rich offer of tourist publications and sightseeing programmes of the entire region. ing to a family of fishermen. Alongside freshly fried catfish and a bottle of white “Dusa Dunava” (Soul of the Danube) wine from Kladovo, we open up our souls. The main road leads us further to the Diana Roman military fortification. In addition to this well-preserved fortress, which once protected the borders of the empire, remain small visible traces of the impressive architectural enterprises of that ancient period. Another testimony to the mastery of “the rocks of the mountain and the Danube” is the tablet of Emperor Trajan – marking an ancient border road that was painstakingly cut and is now flooded by waters held back by the hydroelectric dam. One masterpiece of Roman architect Apollodarus from Damascus – a monumental stone bridge across the Danube that historians claim was “the longest bridge in the world for a thousand years” – was destroyed by the Romans themselves as they retreated in the face of Dacian tribes. Today only remnants of the first grand pillars of Trajan’s bridge can be seen on both sides of the river, while copies of the reliefs depicting scenes of this architectural feat are located in Kladovo’s Djerdap Archaeological Museum.

RESTRAINED POWER Our journey continues towards Kladovo - the region’s largest urban centre. We pass by the huge dams and impressive Iron Gate hydroelectric power plant. We don’t have time to tour the power station, though it is an integral part of Djerdap’s tourism offer. Damming the Danube fundamentally changed the life and landscapes of this region. We do not know what this landscape looked like before the dam, but now it is a gentle, flat area, nothing like the dynamic scenes of cliffs and whirlpools. We tour Kladovo and walk beside the riverbank along landscaped sandy beaches. Were it not for the view of the industrial zone on the Romanian side of the Danube, the picture of parasols and deckchairs on the beautiful Kladovo beach could be mistakenly included in catalogues of seaside destinations. In the immediate vicinity of the town are the Mala Vrbica lakes. Our guide Zoran wants to show us this kingdom of birds. With passion and knowledge he tells us about the habits of the waterfowl, migratory birds and marsh eco-systems. These lakes are still not protected, but proceedings are underway to include this oasis of nature in the territory of the national park. VIEWING POINT – SAILING BOAT A new day begins with coffee on the riverbank in Donji Milanovac. The beautifully landscaped beaches have bathers; little white sailing boats negotiate Milanovac Bay, while every detail of the town is neat and clean. This small town is the country’s

centre of yachting and one of the more developed tourist resorts in the region. The sun is already reaching its peak as we set off to tour one more Djerdap vantage point. Its name is Kovilovo and it is located in a slightly hilly area with landscapes of meadows and forests. The spacious and flattened hill reminds me of a deck floating above the water. A mild wind blows scents of grass and thyme, rustling oak treetops and combining to call for freedom - of movement, flight, dance ... We are stretching out our arms and dancing with the wind. In the shade of the forest, inseparable from his Lada, sits Zoran – now our old acquaintance. He tells us how he waited for days to take a photograph of a hawk in the angled rays of the setting sun; how he listened to the pulse of the blooming Djerdap lilac, which the director of the Toronto botanical gardens even travelled here to see. Whether it is a case of ordinary, albeit still unexplained, human chemistry, or the nature of the Djerdap Iron Gate that carries within it a deep stamp of primordial unconscious that we receive, or who knows what other reason – we are open to each other and understanding. Zoran has taught us his philosophy of life, which is summed up in one particular Djerdap smile. With that smile we can hear nature, be silent or speak, hide or reveal, just as the Iron Gate does itself. MILENA MIHALJČIĆ photographs: DARIMIR BANDA

Djerdap Archaeological Museum

BelGuest LETO | SUMMER 2011

73


74

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest


TOS P R ePO RUč U je – N ACIONA LNI PA R K Đ e R DAP

ĐERDAPSKI OSMEH I PLES NA VETRU Dunav je kod Golupca velik kao more i pravo je čudo kako je reka svu tu svoju silnu vodu slila među planine. Ulaznu kapiju klisure iza koje počinje svet fantastičnih pejzaža Nacionalnog parka čuvaju kule Golubačke tvrđave. Put vodi uz samu obalu Dunava, a putokazi ka čudesnim mestima ovog kraja: najstarijem urbanom naselju Evrope, kamenim belezima rimskog limesa, vidikovcima, lepim varošima, šumama, graditeljskom kolosu 20. veka – hidroelektranama Đerdap 1 i 2...

K

rećemo na put po dogovoru s Turističkom organizacijom Srbije, koja želi da javnost bliže upozna s vrednostima Nacionalnog parka i istovremeno promoviše jedan od njegovih dragulja – arheološki lokalitet Lepenski Vir i novootvoreni Centar za posetioce. Na istraživanje ne idemo sami, gosti smo uprave Nacionalnog parka, koja nam je dodelila vodiča. Krenuli smo dan ranije, pa nikuda ne žurimo, lagano se vozimo predelima severoistočne Srbije. PREOBRAŽAJ VELIKE VODE Uvod u album prizora sveta Đerdapa je slika srednjovekovnog Golubačkog grada. Visoke bele kule i bedemi nanizani su duž kosina litice uz samu obalu Dunava. Silueta Tvrđave ogleda se u mirnoj i velikoj vodi – na ovom mestu Dunav je širok čitavih sedam kilometara, ali odmah iza tih zidina to ogromno vodeno prostranstvo odjednom nestaje. Sa ulaskom u tesnac reka postaje suspregnuta, tiha, njena snaga skrivena i mistična, baš kao i njene dubine. Proslavljeni istraživač podvodnog sveta Žak Kusto merio je ponore Đerdapa – na mestu zvanom Gospođin vir rečno dno se nalazi na dubini od 90 metara! Đerdapska klisura nije samo najdublja već je i najveća rečna probojnica evrope – duga je čitavih 100 kilometara. Rimljani su joj dali ime koje mnogo govori o njenoj ćudi. Zvali su je Gvozdenim vratima, a današnje ime Đerdap ima koren u staropersijskoj reči girdap koja znači vrtlog, vir. „Reč Dunav na keltskom jeziku znači reka, voda. Predanje kazuje da iz Ahilovog izvora teče treći deo Dunava, nazvan Istar, po božanstvu voda... Otac istorije Herodot plovio je Dunavom koji se tada zvao Istros. Njegovim vodama u potrazi za Zlatnim runom brodio je jason sa Argonautima“, čitamo delove vodiča Nacionalnog parka o mitskoj prošlosti reke.

DVA PRIJATELJA RUMUNIJE U našoj dimenziji vremena došao je trenutak za predah. Tražimo mesto na obali i nailazimo na lep i čist restoran sa terasom iznad reke. Tu, „Kod Tome“, pogled na Dunav je kroz ram krošnji žalosnih vrba. Na terasi restorana postajemo svesni blizine susedne Rumunije, jasno vidimo detalje na suprotnoj obali i počinjemo priču o jedinstvenom fenomenu naše istorije – Rumunija je jedina zemlja s kojom se graničimo a s kojom smo uvek živeli u miru. Usput smo od Marte, studentkinje rumunskog jezika i devojke našeg mladog fotoreportera Darimira, čuli zanimljive priče o kulturi Rumunije, o kojoj zaista malo znamo. Marta nam je oslikala istorijski portret dačanskog kralja Decibela, koga Rumuni smatraju za jednog od rodonačelnika nacije. Njegov lik su uklesali na ogromnoj litici klisure, koji ćemo kasnije izbliza videti. Od Marte smo prvi put čuli i za njihovu narodnu izreku koja kaže: Rumuni imaju samo dva prijatelja – Srbe i Crno more!

NOVI ŽIVOT LEPENSKOG VIRA Prvo naše naredno odredište je praistorijski lokalitet Lepenski Vir. Otkrio ga je arheolog „srećne ruke“ profesor Dragoslav Srejović, šezdesetih godina 20. veka, u vreme opsežnih iskopavanja koja su prethodila izgradnji brane. Otkrića na tom nalazištu iz temelja su promenila dotadašnja znanja o počecima civilizacije. Lokalitet je zbog potapanja podignut na viši nivo, ali je skoro pola veka ostao pod niskim krovom privremene zaštitne konstrukcije. U tim uslovima bilo je zaista teško uveriti posetioce da se nalaze pred važnim otkrićem jedinstvene kulture, koja je pre više od 9.000 godina znala za geometriju. Podizanjem nove konstrukcije nad lokalitetom, koja sadrži čitav spektar sadržaja namenjenih posetiocima, sa Lepenskog Vira je skinuta „nataložena prašina“ dugogodišnjeg zapostavljanja i pred nama se u svom sjaju pojavilo novo, impozantno prozračnobelo zdanje posetilačkog centra. Lepenski Vir je dobio dostojanstvo kakvo zaslužuje. Tekst o ovom nalazištu, njegovoj kulturi i

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

75


Captain Misa’s Hill

CENTAR LOVNOG I RIBOLOVNOG TURIZMA

Nacionalni park Đerdap je poznat i kao bogato lovište. U stoletnim hrastovim i bukovim šumama žive jeleni, srndaći, divlje svinje, kune, zečevi... Divljač je oprezna, tako da ovde lov „ima svojstva pravog iskonskog doživljaja“, piše u vodiču Nacionalnog parka. Obilje ribe ne zaostaje: som, smuđ, štuka, kečiga, šaran, ukupno 56 vrsta stalno nastanjenih vrsta riba veliki su izazov za ribolovce. graditeljima centra objavljujemo kao poseban deo reportaže. PRIČE O KAPETANU I DRVETU U sumrak krećemo ka Kapetan Mišinom bregu – tamo su nam naši domaćini rezervisali smeštaj. etno-kompleks na uzvišenju koje nosi ime po velikom srpskom zadužbinaru Miši Anastasijeviću i galerija na otvorenom „čovek, drvo i voda“ zaslužuju posebnu priču. Na seoskoj kapiji dočekuju nas domaćica i njen unuk Mateja, koga u stopu prati žuti mačak Izi. Prolazimo širokom travnatom stazom oivičenom tarabom, šljivikom i cvećem. Na horizontu ima još sasvim malo svetlosti. Stižemo do druge velike kapije, koja svom svojom širinom otkriva najveću dragocenost ovog mesta – panoramski pogled na Dunav i uvalu u kojoj se smestio gradić Donji Milanovac. Sedamo u senik, i uz

76

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

domaću medovaču, posmatramo reku i brda kako tonu u mrak. Domaćin kompleksa nije kod kuće, ali ga u odsustvu odmenjuje Mateja. Sa dečačkim zanosom priča nam o kapetanu Miši, koji se rodio tu, u obližnjem Poreču, i koji se veoma obogatio trgujući solju i jelenskim rogovima. Priča nam da su u to doba jelenski rogovi bili na ceni. evropska gospoda su smatrala da im ugled kuće zavisi od tog trofeja, a kapetan Miši je to išlo na ruku, jer je na Đerdapu tada, kao i danas, bilo divljači u izobilju. Nismo proveravali dečakovu priču, jer ju je ispričao sa žarom koji ne ostavlja prostor za sumnju. Dodao je još da je kapetan upravo s ovog mesta motrio na svoje trgovačke lađe. Inače, prostor etno-kompleksa osmislio je Matejev deda, koji je, boreći se sa teskobom, hodao šumama Omana i Miroča i skupljao panjeve, grane i kore koje su imale zanimljive i lepe oblike. Potom ih je obrađivao i smeštao u svoj vrt. Tako je nastala njegova, danas velika kolekcija „čovek, drvo i voda“. TAMO GDE DUNAV KUVA Ujutru, po dogovoru, stiže naš vodič Zoran Milovanović, po obrazovanju biolog i stručnjak za ptice. Govori nam šta je sve u planu za današnji dan. Krećemo terenskom ladom u jedan od rezervata u kojem se nalaze poznati vidikovci Veliki i Mali Štrbac. Zoran nam usput dočarava prostranstvo Parka, koji se sastoji od manjih posebnih celina. Shvatamo da ćemo uspeti da vidimo samo

odabrane deliće Đerdapa. Silazimo na magistralu i zaustavljamo se na mestu sa kojeg se vidi Kazan – uzan usek među liticama u kojem su, kao u dubokom loncu, sabijene vode Dunava. Na ovom mestu reka je najuža – jedva da ima 140 metara. Potom krećemo na Veliki Štrbac, vidikovac na litici sa koje se najbolje vidi usek Kazana i kanjon. Pešačimo obeleženim stazama koje prolaze kroz listopadne šume. Kao biolog, Zoran nam skreće pažnju na mečju lesku – drvo koje ima koru kao riblja krljušt i koje spada u zaštićene i reliktne vrste Đerdapa. Saznajemo i nazive drugih biljnih „zbegova“, koji su ovde našli svoje utočište. Stižemo do uređene i ograđene terase vidikovca. U prvi mah ne vidimo dobro, jer deo pogleda zaklanja šuma, ali na samo pola koraka izvan krošnji otvara se pogled ka dramatičnom prizoru u kojem se reka pobedonosno rve sa stenama. Ćutimo i gledamo. NEVESTA DUNAVA Preko Ploča, u kojem se nalazi jedan od centara lovnog turizma Nacionalnog parka, vraćamo se na magistralu i posle kraće vožnje skrećemo ponovo u brda prateći putokaz na kojem piše Mali Štrbac. Pošto smo bili na Velikom, bez naročitih očekivanja prilazimo Malom Štrpcu. Kroz kraške vrtače penjemo se ka stenovitom vrhu. Pred pogledom na krajolik koji se otvorio na samom rubu stene instinktivno smo ustuknuli. Litica je gotovo vertikalna, osećate se kao da lebdite, jedrilice ukot-


vljene u zalivu Hajdučka vodenica izgledaju kao šibice, lik kralja Decibela u steni jedva da se nazire, prostranstvu se ne vidi kraj. Prvi put vidimo male i velike uvale u kojima su se smestila turistička naselja na rumunskoj strani reke. Prizor me podsetio na Boku Kotorsku, koju je pesnik Aleksa Šantić nazvao nevesta jadrana. Krajolik je tu toliko strm i zelen da liči i na obale Irske. Ipak, lepo bi bilo kada bi u ove krajeve došao neki nadareni pesnik koji bi rečima naslikao svu tu lepotu, kojoj tada ne bismo morali da pozajmljujemo epitete. RIMSKI LIMES I DUŠA DUNAVA Spustili smo se sa mesta na kojem žive đerdapski sokolovi i orlovi belog repa. Stajemo uz lepo uređeno odmorište pored reke. U laganom spustu približava nam se biciklista odeven u jarke crvenonarandžaste boje. Za koji minut sustiže ga i jedna žena. Prilazimo im i pitamo odakle su. Kažu da su bračni par iz Nemačke i da su došli dovde preko Budimpešte i Mokre Gore. Njihov kilometar-sat pokazuje zamalo pa četvorocifrenu brojku. Na putu ka Kladovu sreli smo još dosta dvotočkaša – kroz Nacionalni park prolazi transevropska biciklistička staza euro Velo 6, koja spaja Atlantik i Crno more. Dan je već odmakao, naš domaćin Zoran planirao je predah u Tekiji i odabrao restoran na obali koji drži porodica ribara. Uz svežu prženu somovinu i buteljku belog kladovskog vina „Duša Dunava“, i mi otvaramo svoje duše. Magistrala nas dalje vodi ka rimskom vojnom utvrđenju Dijana. Osim te dobro očuvane tvrđave, koja je štitila granice carstva, ostalo je malo vidljivih tragova impresivnih graditeljskih poduhvata tog razdoblja. O savladanom „planinskom i dunavskom stenju“ svedoči još samo tabla imperatora Trajana – drevni granični put mukotrpno probijan kroz bespuća potopila je voda zaustavljena na brani hidroelektrane. jedno remek-delo rimskog arhitekte Apolodara iz Damaska – monumentalni kameni most preko Dunava, za koji istoričari kažu da je „hiljadu godina bio najduži most na svetu“, srušili su sami Rimljani, povlačeći se pred dačanskim plemenima. Danas se, na obe strane reke, mogu videti

samo ostaci prvih stubova grandioznog Trajanovog mosta, a kopije reljefa na kojima su prikazani prizori tog graditeljskog podviga nalaze se u Arheološkom muzeju Đerdapa u Kladovu. OBUZDANA SNAGA Putovanje nastavljamo ka Kladovu – najvećem centru regije. Prolazimo pored ogromne brane i impresivnih hidroelektrana Đerdapa. Nismo imali vremena da obiđemo postrojenja iako je to sastavni deo turističke ponude Đerdapa. Zaustavljanje Dunava je iz temelja promenilo život i pejzaže ovog kraja. Ne znamo kako je krajolik izgledao pre izgradnje brane, ali sada je to pitom ravničarski kraj, ni nalik na dinamične prizore klisura i virova. Obilazimo Kladovo i šetamo pored obale uređenih peščanih plaža. Da nije pogleda na industrijsku zonu na rumunskoj strani Dunava, slika sa suncobranima i ležaljkama na lepoj kladovskoj plaži mogla bi da uđe u kataloge morskih destinacija. U neposrednoj okolini grada nalaze se jezera Mala Vrbica. Naš vodič Zoran želi da nam pokaže to kraljevstvo ptica. Sa žarom i znanjem priča nam o životnim navikama močvarica, ptica selica i barskim eko-sistemima. Ta jezera još nisu pod zaštitom, ali je pokrenut postupak da se i ta oaza prirode priključi Nacionalnom parku. VIDIKOVAC – JEDRENJAK Novi dan počinjemo kafom na obali reke u Donjem Milanovcu. Na lepo uređenim plažama ima kupača, male bele jedrilice plove milanovačkim zalivom, svaki detalj grada je negovan i čist. Ova mala varoš je centar jedriličarstva i jedno od razvijenijih turističkih mesta regije.

TURISTIČKA PONUDA REGIJE

Turistička organizacija Majadanpeka ima moderno opremljen informativni centar u Donjem Milanovcu, sa bogatom ponudom turističkih publikacija i programa razgledanja čitave regije. Sunce već dolazi u zenit, a mi krećemo u obilazak još jednog đerdapskog vidikovca. Ime mu je Kovilovo i nalazi se u predelima blago brdovitih pejzaža livada i šuma. Prostran i zaravnjen breg podseća me na palubu koja lebdi iznad vode. Duva blag vetar, miriše na travu i majčinu dušicu, šušte hrastove krošnje, a sve to zajedno poziva na Slobodu – pokreta, leta, plesa... Širimo ruke i plešemo s vetrom. U senci šume, nerazdvojan od svoje lade, sedi Zoran – sada već naš stari znanac. Pričao nam je kako je danima čekao da slika sokola u kosim zracima zalazećeg sunca, kako je osluškivao puls cvetanja đerdapskih jorgovana koje je čak iz Toronta došo da vidi direktor tamošnjeg botaničkog vrta. Da li je u pitanju obična, mada ipak neobjašnjiva, ljudska hemija, ili priroda Đerdapa koja u sebi nosi dubok pečat iskonskog, koji nesvesno primamo, ili zbog ko zna kog drugog razloga – mi smo se međusobno otvorili i razumeli. Zoran nas je naučio svojoj životnoj filozofiji, koja je sažeta u jednom posebnom – đerdapskom osmehu. S tim osmehom možemo da čujemo prirodu, da ćutimo ili govorimo, skrivamo ili otkrivamo, baš kao što to čini Đerdap sam. mILeNA mIHALJČIĆ photographs: fotografije: DArImIr BANDA

View over Lepenski vir

ŠTA BISMO JOŠ LEPO MOGLI VIDETI

Na samo par kilometara od Majdanpeka nalazi se Rajkova pećina i njene predivne dvorane. Rajko je, po legendi, bio hajduk – harambaša, koji je ovde skrivao opljačkana blaga. Lep nakit iskričavo bele boje, koji podseća na ledeni zimski pejzaž i udubljenja nalik na kade čine ovu pećinu atraktivnom za posete. U ovom kraju možete još videti vodopad Beg bunar, Blederijski vodopad, slapove Belog izvorca i impozantne kamene prirodne mostove – Vratnjanske kapije.

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

77


INFO: Visitor Centre – Welcome to Lepenski Vir www.lepenski-vir.org Tourism Organisation of Majdanpek - Donji Milanovac www.toom.rs

TOS RECOMMENDS – LEPENSKI VIR VISITORS’ CENTRE

A GREAT DISCOVERY PROPERLY PRESENTED The first sounds were the waves of the Danube. Then I heard birds tweeting, then the other sounds of the forest. The Treskavac rock reflected over the river that the whole life of the settlement was directed towards. On the banks of the river stood cottages like Indian wigwams, only with a tighter geometry, shrouded in animal skin and surrounded by a river current encircled by stones. From there smoke rose serenely towards the whiteness of the clouds and the translucent blueness... The prehistoric peace spreading over Lepenski Vir.

T

his virtual walk through the prehistoric village stops as soon as you press two buttons on the computer. The Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments of Serbia and the newly-opened Lepenski Vir Visitor Centre use this “time machine” presentation to take us nine thousand years back in time, to illustrate the life of Europe’s first known urban settlement and one of the oldest cultures to have been created and

endured in Europe’s largest ravine. This is just part of the story of the “magical region of the Lepenski Vir culture”, which began its new ‘protected’ life at the end of June this year, with the opening of the Visitor Centre. Created by Marija Jovin and Sinisa Temerinski, both architects at the Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments, the centre has resolved a 40-year-old problem of protecting this world-famous archaeological site and in so doing

paved the way for the full development of cultural tourism in this part of Serbia. Speaking to BelGuest, architect Temerinski admits that the project was extremely demanding. The result of that endeavour is a unique, magnificent space, like a shell, that at its centre preserves this valuable archaeological site. Interestingly, the structure of the centre is such that visitors do not feel that they are indoors.


HONEY-COLOURED SCULPTURES

Lepenski Vir’s famous sculptures were made of honey-coloured sandstone pebbles with a little bit of iron oxide. Only the heads of the figural sculptures are designed in detial, with prominent eyebrows, ears, nose and mouth, while the most common features of the ornamental statues and altars are river meanders, fish bones and braids. The sculptures and altars were cast into the house floors. Archaeologists believe that the art of Lepenski Vir is “inextricably linked to the architecture, burial rituals and religious beliefs of its inhabitants” and that this site was a religious centre of Djerdap’s ancient communities. - The structure is covered above with a material the colour of an overcast sky. The façades are transparent on all sides – especially towards the River Danube, but also towards the surrounding forest. The whole area is bathed in light, as though we are outside. We also included a small trick: we brought the sounds of the outside world inside: bird song, crickets, the sound of water... In that way we overcame the separation from the river. When

viewed from the upper side one can see the site and the Danube in the background, where ships pass, said Sinisa, describing the Lepenski Vir landscape. The centre has a number of secondary facilities: a museum space and virtual presentation area, an amphitheatre for lectures and film screenings, a souvenir shop and guide service, a meeting zone, children’s playroom etc. Beyond the centre is a full size reproduction of a Lepenski Vir house. It is believed that the inhabitants of Lepenski Vir, “Lepenci”, knew some mathematical rules that they used during construction. Sinisa says that their model of equilateral triangles was used as a solution for the building of the visitor centre. - The main feature of Lepenski Vir houses is that they were built based on the principles of geometry. It is a system of equilateral triangles – if you have a stick and a piece of rope or vine it is easy to sketch the triangle. That was evident in the reconstruction. When a pair of horns are placed on that triangle, the wooden “ribs” of the

roof structure, they are connected, raised and a ridgepole – the beam that connects the tops of the horns – is set on top, giving you a stable system of a tetrahedron or a tetra pak. It is wind resistant and easy to cover. The people of Lepenski Vir used this system, including the interior layout and proportions of the altars and hearths, as well as the material for the floor, consistently for over 1,000 years. Those equilateral triangles were, naturally, used in this centre. True, it was 9,000 years ago, but the logic, philosophy and mathematics are the same, says Temerinski. A dozen prehistoric sites have been found in the River Danube’s midstream, on both the Serbian and Romanian side, but only Lepenski Vir strictly respected the geometry of houses. - I had to check the story that during the summer solstice, on the 21st of June, when the sun rises, it shines right through the middle of the door and illuminates the bottom of the home. Confirmation came on the 21st of June at half

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

79


PROFESSIONAL ORGANISATIONS

HOW TO GET THERE?

Lepenski Vir is located close to the River Danube along the M25 Belgrade-Kladovo regional road. It is also along the Eurovelo 6 bicycle route and the “Road of Roman Emperors” cultural route. You can get there by car, bus, boat or bicycle. Lepenski Vir lies on the territory of the Djerdap National Park.

The construction of the Lepenski Vir Visitor Centre was funded by the Serbian Ministry of Economy and Regional Development. The centre is part of the cultural, historical and environmental area within the tourist area of the same name. A company, ”Welcome to Lepenski Vir”, has also been established. It takes care of the archaeological site, organises visits and develops tourism services at the centre. With a top professional guide service and the development of a souvenir programme offer, this company plans to build a pier for tourist boats in the near future. Construction of an ethno village, boasting houses modelled on those in Golubac, as well as the construction of a research station, is planned. past three in the morning, which only means that the inhabitants of Lepenski Vir followed the calendar and the cycles of nature, Temerinski says. From this he also draws the conclusion that they were “special people or caste, who possessed knowhow”. He notes that researchers, including professors Dragoslav Srejovic and Ljubinka Babovic, consider it to have been a shrine or habitat of prehistoric shamans. - What is known about the inhabitants of Lepenski

80

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

Vir is that they were very tall and were not engaged in physical labour. This means that the knowledge they possessed was enough for them to survive in this place, explains Temerinski. Lepenski Vir is one of the world’s most famous prehistoric sites. Located in a once almost inaccessible part of the Djerdap (Iron Gate) Gorge, it was researched from 1964 until 1971 as part of a large field research project that preceded the construction of the Djerdap Dam. Unexpectedly, carefully planned buildings, tombs that point to specific ritu-

als, numerous cases of bones, horns and stone, as well as monumental stone sculptures, were found under a small Neolithic settlement. Further studies showed that Lepenski Vir was the “centre of one of the most complex and intriguing Mesolithic cultures”. The founder, considered as the first portrait in the history of art, the oldest ancestress, Adam, Water Villa, Chronos and other unique sculptures, along with other moveable objects from Lepenski Vir, are kept at the National Museum in Belgrade. Apart from Lepenski Vir, this culture also includes the Mesolithic sites in the Djerdap area, on both banks of the Danube. Human life in Lepenski Vir area died out around 4500 BC, when, presumably, people went looking for more arable land. JeLena taSIĆ photographs: DarImIr

BanDa & Sebian Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments


TO S P R E P O R U Č U J E – C E N TA R Z A P O S E T I O C E L E P E N S K I V I R

DOSTOJNA PREZENTACIJA VELIKOG OTKRIćA Prvi šum bili su talasi Dunava. Onda se začuo cvrkut ptica, pa ostali zvuci šume. U reci se ogledala stena Treskavac, ka kojoj se okretao čitav život naselja. Na obali reke, kolibe nalik indijanskim vigvamima, samo stroži geometrije, zastrte su životinjskim kožama i okružene kamenjem što su ga zaoblile rečne struje. Iz njih se spokojno izdiže dim ka belini oblaka i prozračnom plavetnilu... Praistorijski mir širi se Lepenskim Virom.

O

va virtuelna šetnja kroz praistorijsko selo prekida se istovremenim pritiskom na dve kompjuterske komande. Republički zavod za zaštitu spomenika kulture Srbije i novootvoreni Centar za posetioce Lepenski Vir ovom prezentacijom vraćaju vremeplov devet hiljada godina unazad kako bi dočarali život prvog poznatog urbanog naselja Evrope i jedne od najstarijih kultura koja je nastala i trajala u najvećoj klisuri Evrope. Ovo je samo deo priče

o „magičnom području kulture Lepenskog Vira“, koja je krajem juna ove godine započela svoj novi – zaštićeni i natkriveni život otvaranjem Centra za posetioce, čiji su autori Marija Jovin i Siniša Temerinski, oboje arhitekte Zavoda za zaštitu spomenika kulture. Centar je rešio 40-godišnji problem zaštite ovog svetski poznatog arheološkog lokaliteta i otvorio vrata razvoju kulturnog turizma u tom delu Srbije. Arhitekta Siniša Temerinski kaže za BelGest da je

projekat bio izuzetno zahtevan. Rezultat je jedinstven, velelepni prostor koji, poput školjke, u svom središtu čuva dragocen arheološki lokalitet. Zanimljivo je to što je zdanje Centra takvo da posetioci nemaju osećaj da se nalaze u zatvorenom prostoru. - Konstrukcija je s gornje strane pokrivena materijalom boje oblačnog neba. Fasade su transparentne sa svih strana – pre svega ka Dunavu, ali i ka okolnoj šumi. Ceo prostor je okupan svetlom, kao da smo

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

81


PROFESIONALNA ORGANIZACIJA

Izgradnju Centra za posetioce finansiralo je Ministarstvo za regionalni razvoj i ekonomiju Vlade Srbije. Centar je deo kulturno-istorijske i ambijentalne celine u okviru istoimenog turističkog prostora. Osnovano je preduzeće „Dobro došli u Lepenski Vir“, koje se stara o arheološkom lokalitetu, organizuje posete i razvija turističke usluge centra. Uz vrhunski profesionalnu vodičku službu, razvijanje ponude suvenirskog programa, to preduzeće u bliskoj budućnosti planira da izgradi pristan za turističke brodove, a u planu je i izgradnja etno naselja, sa kućama po ugledu na golubinske, te istraživačka stanica. napolju. Napravili smo i mali trik, u objekat smo uneli zvuke spoljnjeg sveta: cvrkut ptica, zrikavce, šum vode... Time smo savladali odvojenost od reke. Kada se gleda sa gornje strane, vidi se lokalitet, a u zaleđu je Dunav, kojim prolaze brodovi – opisuje lepenske vizure Siniša Temerinski. Centar ima više pratećih sadržaja: muzejski prostor i prostor za virtuelnu prezentaciju, amfiteatar za predavanja i projekcije filmova, suvenirnicu i vodičku službu, prostor za sastanke, igraonicu za decu... Izvan Centra nalazi se reprodukcija lepenske kuće u svojoj pravoj veličini. Veruje se da su stanovnici Lepenskog Vira – Lepenci poznavali neka matematička pravila, koja su koristili u gradnji, a arhitekta Temerinski kaže da je njihov model jednakostranih trouglova korišćen i u rešenju konstrukcije Centra za posetioce. - Glavna odlika kuća Lepenskog Vira jeste ta što su građene na principima geometrije. To je sistem jednakostraničnih trouglova – ako imate štap i parče kanapa ili lijane, lako ćete ocrtati trougao. To se pokazalo i pri rekonstrukciji. Kad se na taj trougao postavi par rogova – drvenih

82

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

rebara krovne konstrukcije, oni se povežu, podignu i postavi slemenjača – greda koja spaja vrhove rogova, dobija se stabilan sistem tetraedra ili tetrapaka. On je otporan na vetar i jednostavan za pokrivanje. Lepenski ljudi su taj sistem, uključujući unutrašnji raspored i proporcije žrtvenika i ognjišta, te materijal za pod, uporno koristili više od 1.000 godina. Ti jednakostranični trouglovi su, prirodno, korišćeni i u ovom centru. Jeste da nas deli 8.000 godina, ali je logika, filozofija i matematika ista – kaže Temerinski. Na srednjem Podunavlju, sa srpske i rumunske strane, otkriveno je desetak praistorijskih nalazišta, ali je samo u Lepenskom Viru poštovana stroga geometrija kuća. - Morao sam da proverim priču da za vreme letnje dugodnevnice, 21. juna, Sunce izlazi tačno kroz sredinu vrata i obasjava dno kuće. Potvrda je došla 21. juna u pola četiri ujutru, što znači da su stanovnici Lepenskog vira pratili kalendar i cikluse u prirodi – smatra Temerinski. On iz toga izvlači zaključak da su oni bili „posebni ljudi ili kasta koja je posedovala znanja“. Napominje da istraživači, od profesora Dragoslava Srejovića i Ljubinke Babović, smatraju da je reč o svetilištima ili staništima praistorijskih šamana. - Ono što se zna o Lepencima jeste da su bili vrlo visoki i da se nisu bavili fizičkim radom. To znači da im je znanje koje su posedovali bilo dovoljno za opstanak na ovom mestu – kaže Temerinski.

KAKO STIćI?

Lepenski Vir nalazi se na Dunavu, na magistralnom putu M25 Beograd–Kladovo, na biciklističkoj ruti Eurovelo 6 i na kulturnoj ruti „Put rimskih careva“. Do njega se može doći automobilom, autobusom, brodom i biciklom. Lepenski Vir se nalazi na teritoriji Nacionalnog parka Đerdap.

SKULPTURE BOJE MEDA

Čuvene lepenske skulpture pravljene su od oblutaka peščara boje meda, sa primesom oksida gvožđa. Na figuralnim skulpturama detaljno je oblikovana samo glava, sa istaknutim obrvama, ušima, nosom i ustima, dok su na ornamentalnim skulpturama i žrtvenicima najzastupljeniji motivi meandra, riblje kosti i pletenice. Skulpture i žrtvenici bili su zaliveni u podove kuća. Arheolozi smatraju da je umetnost Lepenskog Vira „neraskidivo vezana za arhitekturu, pogrebni ritual i religijska shvatanja njegovih stanovnika“ i da je taj lokalitet predstavljalo sakralni centar drevnih zajednica Đerdapa. Lepenski Vir spada u najpoznatije svetske praistorijske lokalitete. Smešten u nekada gotovo nepristupačnom delu Đerdapske klisure, istraživan je od 1964. do 1971, kao deo velikih terenskih ispitivanja, koja su prethodila izgradnji Đerdapske brane. Neočekivano, ispod manjeg neolitskog naselja pronađeni su pažljivo planirani objekti, grobovi koji ukazuju na posebne rituale, mnoštvo predmeta od kostiju, roga i kamena, te monumentalne kamene skulpture. Dalja proučavanja pokazala su da je Lepenski Vir „centar jedne od najsloženijih i najintrigantnijih mezolitskih kultura“. Rodonačelnik, koji se smatra za prvi portret u istoriji likovne umetnosti, Praroditeljka, Adam, Vodena Vila, Hronos i druge unikatne skulpture, uz ostale pokretne nalaze sa Lepenskog Vira, čuvaju se u Narodnom muzeju u Beogradu. Za tu kulturu vezuju se, pored Lepenskog Vira, i druga mezolitska nalazišta na području Đerdapa na obe obale Dunava. Život u Lepenskom Viru zamro je oko 4500. godine pre nove ere, kada su, pretpostavlja se, stanovnici krenuli u potragu za većim obradivim površinama. JeLena taSIĆ fotografije: DarImIr BanDa i Zavod za zaštitu spomenika kulture Srbije


INFO: Aquastar Danube Dunavski kej 1 19320 Kladovo, Serbia Tel.: +381 (0)19 810 810 Fax: +381 (0)19 810 800 e-mail for information: info@hotelkladovo.rs e-mail for reservations: office@hotelkladovo.rs www.hotelkladovo.rs; www.odmornadunavu.rs

H O T E L

A Q U A S T A R

D A N U B E

STAR ON A SANDY BEACH Mr Mile Adzic, a sailing enthusiast and successful businessman, sailed the Danube and became well acquainted with the rare and beautiful places along the banks of the river. Right at the exit to the Djerdap Iron Gate Gorge, in the town of Kladovo, he found the ideal spot for his bold business venture – to build a luxurious hotel located beside one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on the Danube. The quality of the content offered by this hotel is alluded to in its name – Aquastar Danube.

U

nder the leadership of director and owner Mile Adzic, hotel and tourism enterprise Plaža began construction of the hotel in 2006. Building a hotel in a town of barely 10,000 inhabitants and resurrecting Kladovo’s place on the map of elite tourist destinations in Serbia was more than a demanding task. However, with a business philosophy based on the principle “be the best”, the hotel complex had already opened by the autumn of 2008 and, apart from quality accommodation, boasts an immaculately designed Spa and Wellness centre. The spa centre includes a saltwater pool, sauna, Jacuzzi, massage roon, well-equipped gym etc. And all the facilities are available to guests virtually all day and all night. A special part of the hotel’s offer is presented by its two restaurants - Imperator and Simfonija, which both offer international and national cuisine. However, its proximity to the Danube provides the mainstay of the hotel’s kitchen. The menu reveals a variety of dishes prepared from fresh fish

and your enjoyment in the “gifts of the river” will be complemented by the exceptionally high quality Kladovo wines and wines from the famous Rajacki Rogljevski pimnice wine shops. CONFERENCE & TOURISM CENTRE Major companies, foreign representative offices, ministries, embassies, NGOs and many others have written entries in the hotel’s guestbook. This is because Aquastar has a fully equipped modern conference room that hosts seminars, training courses and educational events. The hotel’s management has devised a number of sightseeing programmes that serve to complete one’s stay with substance. In the immediate vicinity of the hotel are a number of tourist attractions, ranging from the Djerdap Iron Gate National Park, the Lepenski vir, Diane and Fetislam archaeological sites and the region’s Archaeological Museum, caves, springs, wine cellars and much more.

A SHIP IS BORN A hydrofoil brought guests to Djerdap some twenty years ago and proved an extremely popular tourism programme. With an awareness of the fact that sailing on the Danube is particularly attractive for tourists, the company’s management decided to embark on a new business venture that will complete the hotel’s offer. At this very moment, in a local shipyard, a modern ship is being built with a capacity of 70 to 100 people. The ship will sail a route from Belgrade to the Kladovo village of Tekija, with guests then transported onwards via shuttle bus to the hotel. Of course, all those wishing to do so will be able to pass through the famous dam locks of the Djerdap 1 hydroelectricity station, seeing firsthand this huge architectural undertaking of the 20th century. It is also planned for the ship to call at other ports en route, thereby ensuring the voyage better captures the mystery of the Danube and the beauty of the Djerdap Iron Gate gorge. The ship is due to be christened early next year. BeLGueSt BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

83


H O T E L

A Q U A S T A R

D A N U B E

ZVEZDA NA PEŠČANOJ PLAŽI Zaljubljenik u nautiku i uspešan poslovni čovek, gospodin Mileta Adžić plovio je Dunavom i dobro upoznao retka i lepa mesta na obalama reke. Na samom izlasku iz Đerdapske klisure, u gradiću Kladovu našao je idealno mesto za svoj hrabar poslovni poduhvat – izgradio je hotel visoke kategorije, koji se nalazi na jednoj od najlepših peščanih plaža na Dunavu. Kvalitet sadržaja koji ovaj hotel nudi sažet je u njegovom imenu – Vodena zvezda Dunava.

H

otelsko turističko preduzeće Plaža na čelu sa direktorom i vlasnikom Miletom Adžićem započelo je izgradnju hotela 2006. godine. Sagraditi hotel u gradiću sa jedva deset hiljada stanovnika i ponovo ucrtati Kladovo na mapu elitnih turističkih destinacija Srbije bio je više nego zahtevan poduhvat. S poslovnom filozofijom zasnovanom na načelu „biti najbolji“, već u jesen 2008. godine otvoren je hotelski kompleks koji, pored kvalitetnog smeštaja, ima i vrhunski osmišljen Welness i Spa centar. Centar ima bazen sa slanom vodom, saune, đakuzi, masažere, dobro opremljenu teretanu..., a svi sadržaji gostima su na raspolaganju doslovno i dan i noć. Poseban deo ponude hotela čine njegova dva restorana – Imperator i Simfonija, u kojima se služe i internacionalna i nacionalna jela. Blizina Dunava ipak daje glavnu notu kuhinji hotela. U meniju ćete naći različite specijalitete pripremljene od sveže

84

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

ribe, a uživanje u „darovima reke“ upotpuniće vam izuzetna kladovska vina i vina iz čuvenih Rajačkih i Rogljevskih pivnica. KONFERENCIJSKI I TURISTIČKI CENTAR Velike kompanije, strana predstavništva, ministarstva, ambasade, nevladine organizacije..., upisale su se u knjigu gostiju hotela. Naime, Aquastar ima vrhunski opremljenu konferencijsku salu u kojoj se održavaju seminari, treninzi i edukacije. Menadžment hotela osmislio je brojne programe razgledanja koji sadržajno upotpunjuju boravak. U neposrednom okruženju nalaze se mnoge turističke atrakcije, počevši od Nacionalnog parka Đerdap, Lepenskog Vira, Diane, Fetislama, Arheološkog muzeja, pećina, izvora, vinskih podruma… . Pre dvadesetak godina do Đerdapa su saobraćali hidrogliseri. Bio je to izuzetno posećen turistički program.

BROD KOJI SE RAĐA Svesni činjenice da je za turiste plovidba Dunavom posebno primamljiva, menadžment preduzeća se odlučio na jedan nov poslovni poduhvata, koji će zaokružiti ponudu hotela. U ovom trenutku, u jednom domaćem brodogradilištu gradi se moderan brod kapaciteta od 70 do 100 osoba. Brod će ploviti na relaciji Beograd–Tekija, a iz Tekije gosti će se prevoziti šatlbusevima do hotela u Kladovu. Naravno, svi oni koji to budu želeli, moći će da prođu kroz čuvenu brodsku prevodnicu hidroelektrane Đerdap i uživo vide ovaj veliki graditeljski poduhvat 20. veka. Planirano je da brod ima i usputnih stajanja, kako bi plovidba što sadržajnije dočarala mistiku Dunava i lepotu Đerdapske klisure. Porinuće broda predviđeno je za početak naredne godine. BeLGueSt


BelGuest leto | SuMMer 2011

85


B r i t i s h

i n t e r n at i o n a l

s c h o o l

B e l g r a d e

SCHOOL THAT ENCOURAGES THE SPIRIT OF COMPETITION

Belgrade’s British International School is celebrating the anniversary of its fifteenth year of work in Serbia. During this time, more than 800 pupils have obtained diplomas from this eminent institution and each year there is growing interest among future pupils. Improvements to capacity and comfort for secondary school pupils saw them move into a luxury building at 12 Smetanina Street in February this year.

T

he building is functional, enabling pupils and teachers to work in complete comfort. they have at their disposal fully-equipped laboratories for natural and social sciences, as well as two classrooms equipped with computers,” explains aleksandra Keserović, ceo and founder of the school. in addition to representative teaching facilities, primary and secondary school pupils also attend school classes at sporting venues. in the primary school building they have training in the indoor pool from January to april. Moreover, the school rents halls and outdoor courts, enabling pupils to enjoy playing tennis, basketball, football and squash. “We have a very rich extracurricular programme. those who decide not to opt for sports can attend classes in cooking and ballet. there is great interest in the traditional capoeira dance,” our interlocutor tells us. “in order to feel at home, all students are provided with transportation, as well as meals in the canteen.” Pupils and former pupils are also proud of their school. Many of them are now renowned lawyers, doctors, engineers etc. the unwritten rule is that after completing the thirteenth grade graduating pupils enrol at university faculties in the country or abroad. the British international school encourages a competitive spirit. Many students participate in various international championships and usually win prizes. last year saw nine pupils receive silver medals at the traditional duke of edinburgh awards event. the school principal believes that it is reasonable to expect that those medals will turn “gold” this year. in that case, the winners will go to london

86

SuMMer | leto 2011 BelGuest

to receive their awards in person. last year saw one Belgrade international school graduate manage to win this prestigious gold award. Pupils natasa g., ivana.K and saki.K succeeded in ending the school year by achieving the highest grade offered by the British education system - “a-star”. Pupil darija also successfully secured first place at an international painting competition. the season of school excursions is the favourite part of the school calendar among pupils. “this year senior pupils will enjoy a nine-day journey through spain. in addition to attractive tourist destinations, they will visit significant cultural and historical sites, while younger pupils will visit some interesting sites in serbia,”says Principal Keserovic. Pupils are also made aware of the importance of environmental protection and humanitarian work from the first year. they enjoy great cooperation with the Karadjordjevic royal family and the Prince’s Palace, which they regularly visit. last year saw Bis graduate dejan receive a scholarship from Princess Katarina and he is now studying in athens. according to Principal Keserovic, the majority of graduates maintain regular contact with the school. gradually it has become a practice for former pupils to appear in the role of assistants, as is the case now with ljubica, who teaches in the primary school. Mile Kovac


ŠKOLA KOJA PODSTIČE TAKMIČARSKI DUH The British International School ove godine slavi jubilarnu, petnaestu godinu rada u Srbiji. Za to vreme, diplomu ove eminentne ustanove steklo je nešto više od 800 učenika, a svake godine postoji sve veće interesovanje budućih đaka. Zbog proširenja kapaciteta i komfora učenika srednje škole, u februaru ove godine, srednjoškolci su se preselili u luksuzan objekat u Smetaninovoj 12.

Z

grada je funkcionalna, učenicima i profesorima pruža potpunu udobnost u radu. na raspolaganju su im opremljene laboratorije za prirodne i društvene nauke, kao i dva informatička kabineta – priča aleksandra Keserović, direktor i osnivač škole. Učenici osnovne i srednje škole, pored reprezentativnih nastavnih objekata, školske časove imaju i na sportskim terenima. U zgradi osnovne škole, od januara do aprila imaju časove u zatvorenom bazenu. takođe, škola zakupljuje sale i terene na otvorenom, pa učenici uživaju igrajući tenis, košarku, fudbal i skvoš. - imamo izuzetno bogat vannastavni program. Ko se ne odluči za sport, može da pohađa časove kuvanja i baleta. Veliko interesovanje vlada i za tradicionalnom kapuerom – priča naša sagovornica – da bi se osećali kao kod kuće, svim učenicima je obezbeđen prevoz, kao i topli obrok u kantini. i učenici su ponosni na svoju školu. Veliki broj njih, danas su poznati advokati, lekari, inženjeri. nepisano je pravilo, da se posle završenog trinestog razreda upiše neki od fakulteta u zemlji i inostranstvu. U the British international school podstiče se takmičarski duh. Veliki broj njih, učestvuje, a i po pravilu osvoji neku od nagradu na različitim međunarodnim prvenstvima. na tradicinalnom takmičenju Vojvode od edinburga, prošle godine devet učenika je dobilo srebrnu medalju. Prema očekivanjima direktorke škole, ove godine, realno je da se one „ pozlate”. U tom slučaju, ići će u london da prime

nagradu. Prošle godine jedan maturant iz Beograda, uspeo da je osvoji ovo prestižno priznanje. Učenici nataša g., ivana.K i saki.K uspeli su da na kraju školske godine postignu najviši uspeh britanskog obrazovnog sistema - „a sa zvedicom”. Uspešna je bila i učenica darija, koja je osvojila prvo mesto na međunarodnom slikarskom takmičenju. Za učenike, u kalendaru najdraže mesto zauzima sezona školskih ekskurzija. - ove godine srednjoškolci će uživati devetodnevnom putovanju kroz Španiju. tamo će pored atraktivnih turističkih destinacija, obići i značajne kulturno-istorijske znamenitosti. dok je za đake mlađih generacija, rezervisana neka od interesantnih lokacija u srbiji – objašnjava aleksandra Keserović. od prvog razreda, učenicima se ukazuje i na važnost ekološke svesti i humanitarnog rada. Veliku saradnju imaju sa porodicom Karađorđević i prinčevskim dvorom, koji redovno obilaze. Maturant dejan, prošle godine dobio je stipendiju princeze Katarine i on danas studira u atini. Prema rečima direktorke Keserović, većina svršenih učenika, redovno održava kontakt sa školom. a, polako postaje praksa, da se bivši učenici pojave i u ulozi asistenta, poput ljubice, danas nastavnice u osnovnoj školi. Mile Kovač

BelGuest leto | SuMMer 2011

87


P R I M A

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

TRAVELLING FOR KNOWLEDGE

Belgrade’s International School, PRIMA, educates its pupils according to British standards. Alongside its core activities, the school also selects various destinations within the context of its excursion programme in order to introduce pupils to the beauties, culture and traditions of Serbia, while also expanding the knowledge and experience of pupils by organising well-planned trips abroad.

T

his year, as in previous years, the PRIMA School successfully organised excursions for its primary and secondary school pupils. Guided by the fact that most of the school’s children are not from Serbia, the school’s management decided to familiarise its pupils with the natural and cultural heritage of the country in which they live. Thus, primary school pupils were given the opportunity to get to know two very interesting places in Serbia “live”: the Village of Babe on Kosmaj Mountain and the Zasavica special nature reserve, while secondary school pupils opted to travel to the capital of the Czech Republic. CONTACT WITH NATURE AND HISTORY In the village of Babe, located not far from Belgrade, is the exclusive Country Club Hotel Babe complex, which offers guests both comfort and a variety of recreational activities. The children enjoyed the hiking trails through Kosmaj’s mild climate. They particularly enjoyed their stay at a mini

88

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

farm and mini zoo and also enjoyed petting horses and kid goats. The pupils also had the chance to attend a small history lesson: Babe village was named after the Roman procurator Baebenius, who supervised work at the nearby Kosmaj mines. This outdoor lesson also saw the children learn that Serbian medieval ruler Despot Stefan Lazarevic lived in this region. PRIMA pupils also came into close contact with nature on their journey to the Zasavica special nature reserve near Sremska Mitrovica. The picturesque shift of swampland, wet meadows, pastures, forests and the ethnic heritage of this area gave the children some rare and beautiful moments: they discovered that the reserve is home to beavers and were able to see in the flesh some rare domestic animals, such as the black Mangulica pig and the Balkan donkey. The Visitor Centre marks Zazavica’s main tourist point and it was here that the children scanned the landscape from the high observation tower offering views of the most beautiful part of the river’s course. They

were able to find out about the cultural heritage of the Macva region at the Visitor Centre’s ethno exhibition. The crowning glory of this trip was a cruise on the tourist boat and their introduction to the world of water lilies. Older pupils of the PRIMA School chose a trip to the royal city of Prague. With professional guides and teachers, they familiarised themselves with the most beautiful and most important cultural monuments of this ancient city – the UNSECO World Heritage listed old core of Prague, museums, galleries etc. Summing up the results, the PRIMA School management concluded with great pleasure that the excursions had proved successful, educational and fun. Primary and secondary school pupils conveyed their impressions through photographs and short written essays, which have been saved and published in the school yearbook. BeLGueSt


P R I M A

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

PUTOVANJA ZA SAZNANJA

Beogradska međunarodna škola PRIMA svoje učenike školuje po britanskim standardima. Uz svoju osnovnu delatnost, škola izborom različtih destinacija u okviru programa ekskurzija upoznaje svoje đake sa lepotama, kulturom i običajima Srbije i upotpunjuje znanja i iskustva svojih učenika organizujući dobro osmišljena putovanja u inostranstvo.

P

RIMA škola je ove, kao i prethodnih godina, uspešno organizovala ekskurzije za osnovce i srednjoškolce. Rukovodeći se činjenicom da školu pohađaju deca koja u velikom broju nisu iz Srbije, uprava škole je odlučila da svoje đake izbliza upozna sa prirodnom i kulturom baštinom zemlje u kojoj žive. Tako su osnovci imali priliku da „uživo“ upoznaju dva veoma zanimljiva mesta u Srbiji – selo Babe na Kosmaju i specijalni rezervat prirode Zasavicu, a srednjoškolci su odabrali putovanje u prestonicu Republike Češke. KONTAKT S PRIRODOM I ISTORIJOM U selu Babe, koje se nalazi nadomak Beograda podignut je ekskluzivan kompleks Country Club hotel Babe, koji gostima nudi i udobnost i niz različitih rekreativnih sadržaja. Deca su uživala u šetnji stazama pitomog ambijenta Kosmaja.

Naročito im se dopao boravak u mini ergeli i mini zoo vrtu i maženje sa konjima i jarićima. Đacima je upriličen i mali istorijski čas: selo Babe je dobilo ime po rimskom prokratoru Baebeniusu koji je nadgledao rad u obližnjim kosmajskim rudnicima. Na ovom času u prirodi, deca su saznala i da je u ovim krajevima boravio srpski srednjovekovni vladar despot Stefan Lazarević. Blizak kontakt sa prirodom đaci su imali i na putovanju u specijalni rezervat prirode Zasavicu, nadomak Sremske Mitrovice. Živopisna smena bara, vlažnih livada, pašnjaka, šuma i etno nasleđe ovog kraja pružili su deci retke i lepe trenutke: saznali su da u rezervatu žive dabrovi, a uživo su videli i retke domaće životinje poput crne mangulice i balkanskog magarca. Vizitorski centar predstavlja glavni turistički punkt Zasavice, tako da su deca posmatrala predeo sa visokog tornja sa koga puca pogled na

najlepši deo toka reke. Kulturno naseđe regije Mačve mogli su da upoznaju u etno postavci vizitorskog centra. Kruna ovog putovanja bila je plovidba po reci turističkim brodićem i upoznavanje sa svetom lokvanja. Stariji đaci PRIMA škole opredelili su se za put u carski grad Prag. Uz stručne vodiče i profesore upoznali su najlepše i najznačajnije spomenike kulture ovog drevnog grada – staro jezgro Praga koje se nalazi na Uneskovoj listi svetske baštine, muzeje, galerije... Sumirajući rezultate uprava PRIMA škole je sa velikim zadovoljstvom konstatovala da su eksurzije bile uspešne, edukativne i zabavne. Osnovci i srednjoškolci su svoje utiske i impresije preneli na fotografijama i kratkim pismenim radovima, koji su sačuvani i publikovani u školskom godišnjaku. BeLGueSt

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

89


B

U

S

I

N

E

S

SALON OF LUXURY

S

C

L

U

B

SALON LUKSUZA

MAESTRO JEWELLERS MAESTRO JEWELERS – IN THE COMPANY OF THE BEST – U DRUŠTVU NAJBOLJIH

T

he Salon of Luxury of Southeast Europe (SEE) took place on 17th September at Grand Casino Belgrade. The day-long programme saw the presenting of the most beautiful models from the collection of the Automobile Museum as well as modern luxury cars. With the support of Pernod Ricard, Grand Casino, the Israel Diamond Centre (IDC), Japan Tobacco International (JTI) and Grand Motors, a conference and exhibition of luxury items were organised within the programme. The names of conference participants alone testify to the fact that this is a top-class lifestyle event: Franz Botro from magazine “Monsieur”, Dragana Kunjadic Capasa, style advisor of Costume National, Valentino Ricci, creative director at Sciamat, Zoran Bosanac, representative of Cerutti et al. The evening of the event saw precious items of jewellery from the Israel Diamond Centre presented at Grand Casino. The programme’s presenter announced the Israel Diamond Centre to the audience by noting: “A fantastic evening is ahead of us, as we will soon see the shiniest thing that exists – a collection of diamond jewellery from company IDC. There are a million good ways to show your love and the best is: diamonds! It is not without reason that the slogan “Diamonds Are Forever!” was voted the best slogan of all time. Never have so few words expressed a greater truth!” IDC is a company with more than 50 years of experience and is located in Ramat Gan, the heart of Israel’s diamond trade centre. IDC offers its clients the expertise of top experts, advanced technology and superior craftsmanship. “While you are admiring IDC diamonds and enjoying their beauty, you need to know that these are truly brilliant jewellery items, but also a great investment. When you want to show love but also a serious business spirit – invest in diamonds! An investment in diamonds is the best investment. Their value is constantly growing. Indeed, diamonds are forever,” concluded the presenter, while the audience enjoyed in this extraordinary collection of rare and precious items.

92

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

S

alona luksuza jugoistočne Evrope održan je 17. septembra u Grand-kazinu Beograd. Na celodnevnom programu predstavljeni su najlepši modeli iz zbirke Muzeja automobila i savremeni luksuzni automobili. Uz podršku Pernod Ricarda, Grand- kazina, Israel Diamond centra, JTI i Grand motorsa, u sklopu programa održana je konferencija i izložba luksuznih predmeta. Da je reč o prvorazrednom lifestyle događaju, svedoče i imena učesnika konferencije: Franz Botre iz časopisa „Monsieur“, Dragana Kunjadić Capasa, stilski savetnik Kostjum National, Valentino Riči, kreativni direktor Sciamata, Zoran Bosanac, predstavnik Čerutija… Uveče, u Grand-kazinu, predstavljeni su skupoceni komadi nakita izraelskog Dijamantskog centra. Voditelj revije najavio je publici IDC rekavši: „Pred nama je sjajno veče, jer ćemo uskoro videti nešto najsjajnije što postoji – kolekciju dijamantskog nakita kompanije IDC. Postoji milion dobrih načina da pokažete svoju ljubav i jedan najbolji: dijamanti! Nije bez razloga slogan Dijamanti su večni! proglašen za najbolji svih vremena. Nikada sa tako malo reči nije rečena veća istina!“ Kompanija IDC ima više od 50 godina iskustva. Smeštena je u Ramat Ganu, srcu Izraelskog centra za trgovinu dijamantima. Ona svojim klijentima nudi stručnost vrhunskih eksperata, naprednu tehnologiju i superiornu zanatsku veštinu. „Dok gledate IDC dijamante i uživate u njihovoj lepoti, treba da znate da su zaista briljantan nakit, ali i sjajna investicija. Kada želite da pokažete svoju ljubav, ali i ozbiljan poslovni duh – investirajte u dijamante! Investicija u dijamante je najbolja investicija. Njihova vrednost neprekidno raste. Zaista, dijamanti su večni!“ – zaključio je voditelj, a publika je uživala u nesvakidašnjoj reviji retkih skupocenosti. BeLGueSt


KKUULLTTUURRAA CCUULLTTUURREE POZORIŠTA – THEATERS www.geocities.com/bgpozorista

ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ ITALIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 56,

ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342/www.atelje212.rs ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342 www.atelje212.co.rs BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.rs BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608 www.bitef.rs DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.rs DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel.2619-705 www.rex.b92.net/ister JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957

KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.rs KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Nake Spasić 3, tel. 367-2564, www.nur.org.yu RUSKI DOM / RUSSIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178

www.jdp.co.rs KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.rs NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL THEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet, Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333 www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SCENA RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 323-8817 SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447 TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664 www.zvezdarateatar.rs

DEČJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ THEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715 www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 POZORISTE “PAN TEATAR”, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 298, www.panteatar.rs

KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS AMERIČKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694, www.americancorners-sam.net

AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956, www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf

BRITANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ BRITISH CULTURAL CENTER, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800 www.britishcouncil.org/serbia

CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270 www.czkd.rs DEČIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314 DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442/ www.dksg.rs DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453 www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 323-99-71 FRANCUSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/FRENCH CULTURAL CENTER, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-600 www.ccf.rs

GOETHE INSTITUT-NEMAČKI KULTURNI CENTAR/GERMAN CULTURAL CENTER, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 2622-823/ www.goethe.de/belgrad

GRAD - Evropski centar za kulturu i debatu, Braće Krsmanović 4, tel. 3282- 571 www. gradbeograd.eu

GUARNERIUS – centar lepih umetnosti, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807 www.guarnerius.rs

HELENSKI FOND ZA KULTURU, Kneza Miloša 14, tel.3625-206 www.hfc-belgrade.com INSTITUT SERVANTES - ŠPANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ SPANISH CULTURAL CENTER, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, 3034-183/ www.belgrado.cervantes.es INSTITUT KONFUČIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.fil.bg.ac.rs

tel. 3629-435, fax.3621-411 www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it

www.ruskidom.rs

REX, Jevrejska 16, tel./fax 3284-534 www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014/ www.skc.org.yu ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550 / www.kolarac.rs

KONCERTNE DVORANE - CONCERT HALLS ATRIJUM NARODNOG MUZEJA, Trg republike 1a, tel. 330-6000 BEOGRADSKA FILHARMONIJA, Studentski trg 11, tel. 328-2977 www.bgf.co.rs DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 324-0242 DVORANA DOMA SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849 www.domsindikata.com KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel. 2638-264 SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 www.savacentar.com ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 262-6591 www.kolarac.co.rs

MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ - ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888 KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE - THE MANSION OF DUCHESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264

KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA - THE MANSION OF DUKE MILOSH, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422 KUĆA ĐURE JAKŠIĆA - DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUĆA - MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE - SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ - NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, 3306-000 www.narodnimuzej.rs

PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538 VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ - VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161

ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE - SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM (direkcija), Đure Jakšića 9/IV, tel. 2187-360, 2637-753

JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ - JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634

MUZEJ BEOGRADSKE TVRĐAVE – BELGRADE FORTRESS MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-4317

MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE - YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Trg Nikole Pašića 11, tel. 328- 4317

MUZEJ BANJIČKOG LOGORA, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877 VOJNI MUZEJ - MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan, tel. 3344-408, 3344-915 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIĆA, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126 MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE - NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ TOME ROSANDIĆA, Ljube Jovanovića 3, tel.265- 1434 MUZEJ IVE ANDRIĆA - IVO ANDRIC MUSEUM, Andrićev Venac 12, tel. 323-8397 ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA - THE CITY OF BELGRADE MUSEUM, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel.2630-825

ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJ ZEMUN - ZEMUN CITY MUSEUM, Glavna 9, tel. 316- 5234

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

93


TEHNIČKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA- MUSEUM OF MOTORCARS, Majke Jevrosime 30,tel. 3034-625 MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA - MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Beograd/Belgrade airport,tel. 2670-992, 2698-209 MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE – MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850 www.muzejnt.rs

PTT MUZEJ- POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3210-325 ŽELEZNIČKI MUZEJ - RAILWAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334 PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2265

MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE – MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149

UMETNIČKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIČKE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654 MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI - THEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2626-630 MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, Novi Beograd, Ušće Save bb, tel. 311-5713 www.msub.org.rs

MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF DESIGN, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494 www.mpu.org.rs

JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - CINEMA MUSEUM, Kosovska 11, tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.yu MUZEJ ZEPTER – ZEPTER MUSEUM, Knez Mihailova 42, tel. 011/3283339, www.zeptermuseum.rs NATIONAL BANK OF SERBIA NUMISMATIC COLLECTION Kralja Petra 12, tel.3027-100 www.nbs.rs e-mail izlozba@nbs.rs

IZLOŽBENE GALERIJE - EXHIBITION GALLERIES GALERIJA SRPSKE AKADEMIJE NAUKA I UMETNOSTI - GALLERY OF SERBIAN ACADEMY OF ARTS & SCIENCES,Knez Mihailova 35, tel. 334-2400 ext.244 GALERIJA BEOGRAD, Andrićev venac 12, tel. 323-8789 GALERIJA DOMA OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453 GALERIJA FAKULTETA LIKOVNIH UMETNOSTI, Knez Mihailova 53, tel. 2630-635 GALERIJA FRESAKA - FRESCO GALLERY, Cara Uroša 20, tel. 3306-052, 2621-491 GALERIJA GRAFIČKOG KOLEKTIVA, Obilićev venac 27, tel. 2627-785 www. grafickikolektiv.org GALERIJA HAOS, Dositejeva 3, tel. 2627-497 www.galleryhaos.com GALERIJA KULTURNOG CENTRA BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 2622-926 GALERIJA-LEGAT MILICE ZORIĆ I RODOLJUBA ČOLAKOVIĆA, Rodoljuba Čolakovića 13, tel. 2663-173 GALERIJA-LEGAT PAJE JOVANOVIĆA, Kralja Milana 21, tel. 3340-176 GALERIJA-LEGAT PETRA DOBROVIĆA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2622-163 GALERIJA NAUKE I TEHNIKE SANU – SANU GALLERY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Đure Jakšića 2, tel. 3283-490 GALERIJA NEW MOMENT, Hilandarska 14, tel. 3229-992

BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI BELGRADE RESTAURANTS RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079 DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885 IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422 ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750 TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501 ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834

94

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

GALERIJA PROGRES, Knez Mihailova 22, tel. 2182-626 GALERIJA PRIRODNJAČKOG MUZEJA, Mali Kalemegdan 5, tel. 328-4317 GALERIJA STARA KAPETANIJA, Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 8, tel. 2612-023 GALERIJA STUDENTSKOG KULTURNOG CENTRA, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 2688-468 GALERIJA SULUJ, Terazije 26/II, tel. 2685-780 www.galerijasuluj.org.rs GALERIJA 73, Požeška 83 a, tel. 3557-142 GALERIJA ULUS, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. 2623-128 www.ulus.org.rs GALERIJA CENTRALNOG DOMA VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 323-4712 GALERIJA ZADUŽBINE ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski Trg 5, tel.2185-794 JUGOSLOVENSKA GALERIJA UMETNIČKIH DELA, Andrićev venac 4, tel. 3238-789, Dositejeva 1, tel. 2627-135

OZON, Andrićev venac 12, tel.3036-024, 3238-789 SALON MUZEJA SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI, Pariska 14, tel. 2630-940 UMETNIČKI PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIĆ, Mali Kalemegdan, tel. 2622-281 www.ulus.org.rs VELIKA GALERIJA DOMA KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442

ZEPTER GALERIJA, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414

BIOSKOPI - CINEMAS AKADEMIJA 28, Nemanjina 28, tel. 361- 6020 CITY ACADEMIC, Bulevar dr Zorana Đinđića 152, tel. 260- 9527 DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar dr Zorana Đinđića 179, tel.269- 1442 DOM OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, tel. 3248-202 DOM SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849 DVORANA KULTURNOG CENTRA, Kolarčeva 6, tel. 2621-174 JUGOSLAVIJA, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina bb, tel. 2676-484 MILLENNIUM, Knez Mihailova 19, tel. 2623-365 MUZEJ KINOTEKE, Kosovska 11, tel. 324-8250 ODEON, Kraljice Natalije 45, tel. 2643-355 RODA CINEPLEX, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 STER CITY CINEMA, Jurija Gagarina 16, Delta City, tel.220- 3400 ŠUMADIJA PALAS, Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. 3555-465 TUCKWOOD CINEPLEX, Kneza Miloša 7, tel. 323-6517 VUK, Bul. kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2424-860 ZVEZDA, Terazije 40, tel. 264- 2057

BIBLIOTEKE - LIBRARIES BIBLIOTEKA GRADA BEOGRADA - BELGRADE CITY LIBRARY, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202-4024 www.bgb.org.rs

NARODNA BIBLIOTEKA SRBIJE - SERBIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY, Skerlićeva 1, tel. 2451-242 www.nb.rs

UNIVERZITETSKA BIBLIOTEKA „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“- UNIVERSITY LIBRARY „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. 3370-509 www.unilib.bg.ac.rs

*skraćenica / abbriviaton: rv/wh - radno vreme / working hours ** skraćenica / abbriviation: nat – uglavnom nacionalna kuhinja/ mainly national cuisine

INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE BATLEROVA KUĆA, Gospodar Jovanova 42, tel. 2188-033 mob. 065/2188-033 BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 367-0562 COLONIAL SUN, Bulevar Vojvode Putnika 32-34, tel.3692-156 DAKA*****, Beograd, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 219-7423 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h nat DEVETKA***, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783 DIVA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822 ĐORĐE, Hadži Milentijeva 47 (ulaz iz Moravske 10) tel. 3441-422 EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 3612-429 FRANŠ****, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. 2641-944


GINGER, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822 INTERNATIONAL PRESS CENTER CLUB, Knez Mihailova 6/III, tel. 2621-661 KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 (live music) KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931 KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972 KOVAC, Bulevar oslobodjenja 221, tel. 2462-343 KUMBARA****, Bulevar JA 46, Beli Potok, tel. 3906-834 MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332 METROPOLITAN GRILL*****, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1140 NA ĆOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470 NOVI SALAŠ, Zemun, Sinđelićeva 34, tel. 2190-324 ORAČ***, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507 OSKAR, Braće Baruh 6, tel. 2184-726 PASTUV****, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-8058 PERPER lux, Omladinskih brigada 18a, tel. 2606-046 (live music) PIRE SLOW FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel. 2621-494 RESTORAN 27, Istarska 27, tel. 2651-831 RUBIN***, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3910-987 SOKAČE, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića, tel. 2625- 452 SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197 STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 TABOR****, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464 (live music) TALAS, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 UŠĆE****, Ušće bb, tel. 2139-692

VUK****, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 ZAPLET, Žarka Zrenjanina 33, tel.240-4142 ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651 (live music) ZLATNIK****, Kej oslobođenja35, Zemun, tel. 210- 5565 ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421

RIBLJI RESTORANI - FISH RESTAURANTS FISH&BAR, Braće Jugovića 3 , tel. 2622-146 KLUB TAVERNA, Zmaj Jovina 9, tel. 065/633- 5353 PORTO, Francuska 52, tel. 322-5624 REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 2611-625 (live music) ŠARAN**, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel. 2618-235 (live music)

SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS Klub DOBRILA, Dobračina 30, tel.2625-869 international cuisine AMPHORA, Dobračina 30, tel.2625-869 mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića bana 13, tel.3285-906 french cuisine BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIĆA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 italian cuisine BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 italian cuisine BURITO BAR, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6546 mexican cuisine BYBLOS, Nebojšina 6, tel. tel. 244 19 38, lebanon cuisine CASA, Makenzijeva 24, tel. 3860-866 IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 indian cuisine IPANEMA, Strahinjića bana 68, tel. 3283-069 italian cuisine FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 italian cuisine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 sea food LAVA BAR, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 3610-525 mediterranean cuisine MAMMA MIA****, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 italian cuisine

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

95


PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 italian cuisine PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 2181-931chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 italian cuisine PIZZA HUT, Makedonska 44, tel. 3243-255 italian cuisine POSLOVNI KLUB „KOŠUTNJAK”, Pere Velimirovića 1, tel. 2661-344 venision PUTUJUĆI GLUMAC, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. 3341-024 italian cuisine ROYAL KNEZ***, Kneza Sime Markovića 10, tel. 2635-160 italian cuisine TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 italian cuisine TRAMONTANA, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 3542-237 sea food VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 mexican cuisine ZORBA, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6547 greek cuisine

RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, tel.319-6369 , tel.063/7784-760 (live music) AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 ČARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467 (live music) KOD GOCE I RENATA, Pančevački put bb, tel.2710-401 KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel.. 3195-905 (live music) KOGO, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 ŽABAR KLUB, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-226

HOTELI – HOTELS CONTINENTAL HOTEL BEOGRAD, Vladimira P opovića 10, tel. 2204-204 fax 311-1402 HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 fax 311-2234 PRESIDENT, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 fax 2075-260 SQUARE NINE HOTEL BELGRADE, Studenstki trg 9, tel. +381 11 3333 500 fax. +381 11 3333 515 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 fax 3167-235

BAH – BEOGRAD ART HOTEL,Knez Mihailova 27 tel. 3312-000 BEST WESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3095-505 fax 3095-501 BEST WESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3554-255 fax 3554-368 CRYSTAL, Internacionalnih brigada 9 tel. 715-1000 EVROPA, Sremska 1, tel. 3626-017 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 fax 310-5351 LIFE DESIGN, Balkanska 18, tel. 3626-090 fax 3626-086 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995 MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 fax 2688-389 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Karađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 NEVSKI , Venizelusova 24a, tel. 322-9722 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 fax 184-458 PRESTIGE, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. 3057-465 fax 3057-466 QUEEN ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 2645-422; fax 2686-437 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 2450-842 fax 3442-931 TOWNHOUSE 27, Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. 2022-900 fax 2620-955 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, tel. 3314-800 fax 3314-801 BALKAN GARNI, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 fax 2687-581 BELGRADE CITY HOTEL, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. +381 11 761 70 23, fax. +381 11 668 43 73

ELEGANCE, Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel.2075-000 fax.2075-005 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 fax 3231-951 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257

96

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 3035-858 fax 3035-353 N, Bilećka 57, tel. 3972-183 fax 3955-555 NACIONAL, Autoput 5, tel. 2601-156 fax 2601-177 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 fax. 2561-090 PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640-385 fax. 3640-381 PRAG, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 3610-422 fax 3612-691 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 fax 361-2965 ROYAL, Kralja Petra 56, tel. 2626-426 fax 2626-459 SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 fax 2190-724 SLODES, Borska 92F, tel. 3055-518 fax 3056-524 TULIP INN , Palmira Toljatija 9 , tel. 2259-813 UNION, Kosovska 11, tel.3248-022 fax 3224-480 BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-361 fax 657-344 BRISTOL, Karađorđeva 50, Belgrade, Tel. +381 11 2631-895 ,Fax +381 11 3037-161 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 fax 3162-648 OASIS, Novosadski autoput 75, Zemun, tel. + 381 11 3166 302 fax. + 381 11 3166 501 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-842 fax 2431-517 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404 fax 289-2462 TAŠ, Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-507 fax 3238-027 TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670 fax 3540-669

HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 fax 8230-077 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. 341-6131 SUČEVIĆ M ***, Dugo polje 1a, Avalski put, tel. 3907-777 fax. 3907-771

APARTMENTS- APARTMANI Kraljičini apartmani*****, Đure Daničića 13, tel.322-4318 Vila Kalemegdan, Strahinjića bana 7, tel.2637-856

PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4444 www.beg.aero Autobuska stanica Lasta- Bus Station Lasta, Železnička 2, tel. 2625-740 Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636-299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.rs

JAT autobuski terminal - JAT Bus Terminal, Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-584 www.jat.com

Međunarodni železnički saobraćaj - International railway transport, tel. 360-2899 Međunarodni autobuski saobraćaj- International bus transport, tel. 2622-526, 2627-146

Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4, tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.rs

Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.com

RENT-A-CAR AVACO RENT A CAR, Avaco – Trnska 7, 11000 Beograd, Srbija, 24 33 797, 34 48 981, Fax. 24 32 010, mob. 65 63 63 330

AVACO – AERODROM NIKOLA TESLA, Beograd, 22 86 434, mob.381 65 535 33 25, Hitne intervencije: +381 64 184 55 55

BUDGET RENT-A-CAR BEOGRAD, Antifašističke borbe 38, 11000 Beograd, Srbija, 311 3050 OMNITURS, SAVSKI TRG 7, Beograd, (011) 761 - 0127; (061) 444 - 3000; (061) 444 - 2000 AXIOM RENT-A-CAR BEOGRAD, Bul.A.Carnojevica 66, L31, 11070 Novi Beograd, Srbija, 761 - 0127; (061) 444 - 3000; (061) 444 - 2000 SKILL RENT-A-CAR BEOGRAD, Milentija Popovica 9, Sava Centar, 11000 Beograd, 381 63 330 259, 3113684 EUROPCAR RENT-A-CAR BEOGRAD, Bulevar M. Pupina, 10g/523, 212 03 42 GET MOBILE D.O.O. RENT-A-CAR BEOGRAD, Zorana Đinđiča 45 v, 11000 Beograd, 313 06 39


UTD-United Car Rental Network, Sava Centar Milentija Popovića 9, Beograd, 011 20 5000 AVIS, Hotel Hyatt Regency Milentija Popovića 5, Beograd, 381 (0)11 313 96 16 HERTZ AUTOCAR, Vladimira Popovica 6, Beograd, 20 28 200 Sixt Rent a Car, Žorža Klemensoa 19, 11000 Beograd, 328 7070 ,064 895 6089

AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRWAY COMPANIES AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroflot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000 www.alitalia.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrian.com BRITISH AIRWAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFTHANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.com MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com QATAR,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879 QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166 www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/III, tel. 3035-738 SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 3035-739 www.srilankan.aero SWISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174 www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-7225 www.thy.com

DOMAĆE AVIO KOMPANIJE AVIOGENEX, Narodnih heroja 43, tel.2600-445, www.aviogenex.com JAT AIRWAYS, Bulevar umetnosti 16, tel.3112-123, www.jat.com

VAŽNI TELEFONI - IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS BUĐENJE - WAKE UP SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9811 HITNA POMOĆ - EMERGENCY WARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 MEĐUMESNI RAZGOVORI - LONG-DISTANCE CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .900 MEĐUNARODNI RAZGOVORI - INTERNATIONAL CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .901 METEOROLOŠKA OBAVEŠTENJA - WEATHER FORECAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9823 MILICIJA - POLICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 OPŠTE INFORMACIJE - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .9812 PRIJEM TELEGRAMA TELEFONOM - TELEGRAMS BY PHONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 SPORTSKE INFORMACIJE - SPORTS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9814 TAČNO VREME - TIME INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 TELEFONSKI PRETPLATNICI - PHONE DIRECTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .988 URGENTNI CENTAR - EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .361-8444 VATROGASCI - FIRE DEPARTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES INFORMATION: For all formalities concerning the extension of sojourn in Yugoslavia, issuing of visas, losing of passports in Belgrade, contact the Ministry of

Internal Affairs, Secretariat in Belgrade,26, Kneza Miloša St. tel. 3615-055 www.mfa.gov.rs

ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vladete Kovačevića 14, tel. 2653-422 fax 2653-424 ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630 AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, 8th floor, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3336-500, 3031-964 fax.2635-606 Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3336-593

BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 Odelj. za vize/Visa Section, tel. 0800/120-120

BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057 Konzulat/Consular section, tel.3038-204 BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653

BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454

CRNA GORA/MONTENEGRO, Užička 1, tel. 2662-300 fax 3699-546 ČEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 ČILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 2459-974 DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 3679-500 fax 3679-502 EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036 EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375 FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 GABON/GABON- consulate, Lomina 48, tel. 3626-147 fax 3626-110 GANA/GHANA, Djordja Vajferta 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 GRČKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića bana 76, tel. 3341-507

GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 HOLANDIJA/THE NETHERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999 HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566

INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209 INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984 IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363 ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel.3066-169

IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3643-500 fax 3643-555 JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258 KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 3063-000 fax 3063-042 KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 Konzulat/Consular Section, Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163

KIPAR/CYPRUS, Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. 3620-002 fax 3621-122 KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

97


SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028 SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel. 2666-124 fax 3440-221 SLOVAČKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820 SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 ŠVAJCARSKA/SWITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 Odeljenje za vize/ Visa Section, tel. 3065-815

ŠVEDSKA/SWEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, fax 2069-270 (except Wednesday)

TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 2651-848 TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998 Konzulat/Consular Section tel. 2660-247 VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 2659-651 UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3674-006 fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201

NEKRETNINE - REAL ESTATE ADDRESS REAL ESTATE JSCO SERBIA, Nemanjina 40/7, tel.365-00-90 www.address.co.rs BEYOND REAL ESTATE, Despota Djurdja 13, tel. 292-0377 www.beyond-realestate.com BRADMORE CONSULTING & LEASING, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel./fax: 2637-570 COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 20, tel. 2663-863, fax.3674-538

DANOS GROUP, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 2600-603, www.danos.rs EURENT, Dobračina 21, tel.2623-395, 2620-680 EURODIPLOMATIC, Real Estate & Rental Agency, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, 308-68-79 mob.065/606 6 606 INVEST-IMPORT, Terazije 5, tel. 3220-027, 3248-081 MENTOR REAL ESTATE AGENCY, Mileševska 2, tel. 308-90-80, 308-90-81 fax.308-90-82 www.mentorrent.co.rs

NEOATLAS REAL ESTATE, Cara Dušana 3, Zemun, Beograd, tel. 2197 598, fax.3077 732 www.neoatlasrealestates.rs, neoatlasgp@gmail.com

KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442 LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156 LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805 MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974

MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 3285-076 Konzulat/

Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 (except Wednesday) MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080 MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499 MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013 MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968 NAMIBIJA/NAMIBIA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450 fax 896-732 NEMAČKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303 Konzulat/Consular Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400 NORVEŠKA/NORWAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667 PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336 PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085-216 POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3617-576 PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. 2662-894 fax 2662-892 REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Fruškogorska 1/II, tel. 2183-581 fax 303-6096 REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229 RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771 Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798 RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3613-964 SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 SAN MARINO/ SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144

98

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

PC UŠĆE, EC, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85b, tel. 3010-858 fax 3010-813 R.BeO CONSTRUCTION d.o.o, mob. 063/203-929 VOS MEDIATOR, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 4, tel.2920-466 fax 2920-472 mob.062/282-434 www.vosmediator.co.rs

KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 /www.savacentar.com

BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs

TURISTIČKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta.rs GLOB METROPOLITEN TOURS, Makenzijeva 26, t el. 2430-852, www.metropoliten.com EXCLUSIVE TOURS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3227-539 www.exclusivetours.co.rs MAGELAN CORPORATION, Novi Sad, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 021/6624-823 www.magelan.rs PAN EUROPA ADRIATIC, Bulevar Despota Stefana 33, tel. 3242-187 www.adriatic.co.rs PANACOMP TRAVEL TOURISM AND TRADE, Novi Sad, Bulevar Cara Lazara 102, tel. 021/ 466-075 www.panacomp.net

KUPOVINA – SHOPPING ZLATARE - JEWELERS JOKIĆ JEWELRY&WATCHES, Knez Mihailova 32, tel.2623-862 MAESTRO JEWELERS, Continental hotel Beograd, tel. 311-1459, 311-3333 ext.721 Kolarčeva 4, tel. 303 30 91


AVACO RENT A CAR

AVACO RENT A CAR

A RESPECTABLE FLEET OF CARS

RESPEKTABILNA FLOTA AUTOMOBILA

A

A

vaco Rent a Car uspešna je srpska firma koja se više od deset godina vaco Rent a Car is a successful Serbian company which has been engaged bavi rentiranjem vozila. U njenom impozantnom voznom parku možete in renting vehicles for more than ten years. Its impressive fleet includes all naći sve vrste automobila – od najluksuznijeg mercedesa S klase, džipova kinds of cars – from the most luxurious Mercedes-S class, jeeps Grand Cherokee, grand cherokee, commander, hummer, mercedes GL, lincoln navigator, honda Commander, Hummer, Mercedes Gl, Lincoln Navigator, Honda CRV, via highCRV, preko automobila visoke klase, kao što su chrysler 300 c i mercedes E end cars such as the Chrysler 300 C and Mercedes E 200, as well as mid-range 200 i automobila više srednje klase honda accord, seat altea, pa sve do nižih vehicles like the Honda Accord and Seat Altea, all the way to lower range pasputničkih klasa. U ponudi su i terenski automobili i kombiji, a ako vam zatreba senger cars. There are also all-terrain vehicles and vans and if you need to get da negde stignete zaista brzo, Avaco ima čak – HELIKOPTER! somewhere really fast, Avaco even has a HELICOPTER for you to rent! Kao domaća kompanija, Avaco se na srpskom tržištu nadmeće sa svetski As a local company, Avaco competes on the Serbian market with the world’s brand-name car rental companies and matches their offers in terms of quality brendiranim rent-a-car kompanijama i ne zaostaje za njima po kvalitetu usluge, a cene su mu znatno konkurentnije. Pored of service that does not lag behind, as well as in terms jeftinije usluge, Avaco Rent a Car svojim klijenof prices that are more than competitive. In addition to tima daje različite dodatne usluge i česte akcijske cheaper services, AVACO Rent a Car offers its clients other popuste. benefits in the form of various additional services and Jedna od specifičnih crta u poslovnoj filozofiji frequent discounts. kompanije je fleksibilnost: Auto možete iznajmiti u One specific feature of Avaco company’s business phibilo koje doba, 24 sata dnevno, 365 dana u godini. losophy is flexibility. At this company you can rent a Zbog velikog broja zahteva za automobilima sa car at any time day or night, 24 hours a day, 365 days automatskim menjačem za letnju sezonu Avaco a year. Because of high demand for cars with automatic INFO je pripremio nova automatik vozila honda accord, transmission for the summer season, Avaco has prepared Avaco – Trnska 7, 11000 Beograd, Srbija honda crv i mercedes e 200. Kompanija ima i new automatic vehicles Honda Accord, Honda CR-V and Tel: +381 11 24 33 797, +381 11 34 48 981 vozila isključivo za nepušače. Ako ne vozite, možete Mercedes E 200. The company also has vehicles for non- Fax. +381 11 24 32 010 iznajmiti automobil sa vozačem. Kada doputujete smokers only. If you don’t drive, you can rent a car with Mob. tel: +381 65 63 63 330 a driver. If you arrive at the airport and need a ride to any Avaco – Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, Beograd, avionom, Avaco će vas sa aerodroma prevesti do bilo koje željene destinacije u zemlji. Na to možete desired destination in the country, Avaco will transport Tel: +381 11 22 86 434 računati i kada vam je potreban prevoz robe. Avaco you there. You can also count on Avaco when you need to Mob. tel: 381 65 535 33 25 je tokom ove sezone ulozio oko 500 000 evra transport goods. Avaco has invested around €500,000 Hitne intervencije: +381 64 184 55 55 u svoj vozni park. Među novim automobiliin its transport fleet during this season. Among http://www.avaco-rentacar.com/ ma su mercedesi e klase kao i smart modeli, the new cars are the Mercedes E Class and Smart ONLINE REZERVACIJE chrysler lux klase i 30 novih fiat punto vozila models, the Chrysler lux class and 30 new fullyequipped Fiat Punto cars. Our fleet comprises mainly new cars, with sa full opremom. U voznom parku ima najviše novih automobila, dok su najstarija vozila starosti do četiri godine. the oldest vehicles aged up to four years old. Od osnivanja do danas Avaco Rent a Car pažljivo čuva svoju reputaciju pouzSince its establishment, Avaco Rent a Car has carefully guarded its reputation as a reliable partner, gaining many satisfied customers. The company operates danog partnera, čime je stekao veliki broj zadovoljnih korisnika. Kompanija posluje po standardima ISO 9001:2008 i ISO 27001 according to ISO 9001:2008 and ISO 27001 standards. BeLGueSt BeLGueSt

BelGuest Leto | Summer 2011

99


PRVI MAJ, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 3241-349 PRIMA 1, bolnica Sveti Sava, tel. 361-10-88, 361-09-99 SVETI SAVA, Nemanjina 2, tel. 2643-170 ZEMUN, Glavna 34, tel. 2618-582 FARMANEA, Trg republike, tel. 3344-923

REAL ESTATE NEOATLAS REAL ESTATE REAL ESTATE AGENCY SPECIALIZED IN SELLING & RENTING HOUSES AND APARTMENTS WE PLACE THE UTMOST EMPHASIS ON EFFICIENCY AND PROFESSIONALISM www.neoatlasrealestates.com neoatlasgp@gmail.com

3 Cara Dušana st. Zemun, Beograd, 11080 tel. 011/2197-598; fax 011/3077-732

VITANOV, Vasina 14, RK Beograd, tel. 2181 394 ZLATARNA CELJE, TC Merkator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 3116-990

USLUGE - SERVICES INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES www.isj.co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-022, 2623-034 fax: 2625-525 INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.rs BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557 BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Smetanina 12, tel.2666-669 fax.3066-892 www. british-int-school.org.uk

CHARTWELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 fax.3675-340 www.chartwellinternational.org

DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135 ECOLE FRANCAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762 INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL BELGRADE, Nake Spasić 4, tel.2667-130 www.insb.co.rs INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel.206 9999, fax. 206 9944, www.isb.co.rs

LOGOS, Kvarnerska 4, tel./fax 3693-059, 3693-060 www.logosinternationalschool.com PADDINGTON SUNFLOWER , Belville, tel. 069-750-930 PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Kvarnerska 4, tel. 369-3060 www. primainterschoolbelgrade.com

RUSSIAN SCHOOL, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 2163-883

MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 APOTEKE - PHARMACIES 00-24h

100

Summer | Leto 2011 BelGuest

BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIČKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIĆ, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIČKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616 VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122 PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 3065-888, Koste Jovanovića 87, tel.309-1000 JEVREMOVA, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel. 328-1051, 638-265 KLINIKA PETKOVIĆ, Maglajska 19, tel. 2667-078 MEDICAL CENTER „HBO“, Bulevar Vojvode Stepe 347b, tel. 3972-666 POLIKLINIKA „Dr Ristić“, Novi Beograd, Narodnih heroja 38, tel. 2693-287, 2697-808 VETERINARSKA KLINIKA - VETERINARY HOSPITAL Veterinarski fakultet, Bulevar oslobođenja 18, tel. 3615-436

SPORT FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181 STADION FK “OBILIĆ”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 STADION FK “RADNIČKI”, Tošin bunar 190, tel. 2699-119 OMLADINSKI STADION, Mije Kovačevića 10a, tel. 3291-514 ZEMUNELO, Mostarska 12, Zemun, tel. 3164-493 BAZENI - SWIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 7551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 2412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901 GOLF KLUB – GOLF CLUB GOLF KLUB BEOGRAD, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel.3056-837 fax 3551-559 www.golfclub.co.rs JP ADA CIGANLIJA, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel. 3544-634 HIPODROM - HORSE RACING TRACK BRC HIPODROM, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-6835 LEDENA DVORANA - ICE HALL PIONIR, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.2766-667 HALE SPORTOVA - SPORT CENTERS BEOGRADSKA ARENA, Novi Beograd, Španskih boraca 20, tel. 2133-516 BG SPORTSKI CENTAR KOVILOVO, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 DOM SPORTOVA “PINKI”, Gradski park 2, Zemun, tel. 3160-270 CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU “VRAČAR”, Sjenička 1, tel. 2452-342 CENTAR ZA KULTURU I SPORT “ŠUMICE”, Ustanička 125, tel. 289-4533 GRADSKI CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU, Deligradska 27, tel. 2658-747 SRC “TAŠMAJDAN”, Ilije Garašanina 26-28, tel.3240-901 SRC “PIONIRSKI GRAD”, Kneza Višeslava 27, tel. 3542-094 SC “25. MAJ”, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. 2622-866 SRC “BANJICA”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 SC “VOŽDOVAC”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-780 SC “ZVEZDARA”, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 2412-353 SC “KOŠUTNJAK”, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 7555-461 SC “PIONIR”, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel. 2766-566 SRC “11. APRIL”, Autoput 2, Novi Beograd, tel. 2671-547


‫ﻥﻱﺭﺵﻉﻭ ﺓﻉﺏﺱ‬ Dvacet sedm Zeven en twintig Tjuesyvogtyve Tjugoyvå Kaksikymmentä seitsemän Syv og tyve Dwadzieścia siedem Twenty seven Vingt-sept

)C9LR@>JBQL"BIDO>AB?B@>RPBLCRP 9LR>OBKLQEBOB?VJFPQ>HB

Huszonthét Venti sette Двадцять сім Vinte e sete Двадцать семь Veintisiete Yirmi yedi Sedemindvajset Dvadsať sedem Двадесет седем Siebenundzwanzig Douăzeci şi şapte είκοσι επτά ‫עבשו םירשע‬

Restaurant -gallery 27 Istarska 27 11000 Belgrade, Serbia Tel: +381(0) 11 2651-831 Fax: +381(0) 11 3692-079 www.restoran27.com i27@eunet.rs


BelGuest Summer2011  

Big War Island, Momcilo Bajagic Bajaga, Djerdao & Lepenski Vir, Belgrade events, Congres tourism Novi Sad, Marija Karadjordjevic, Branko Cop...

Read more
Read more
Similar to
Popular now
Just for you