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JAMES SUCKLING & ZACHYS PRESENT

GREAT WINES OF BORDEAUX TUESDAY, MARCH 11, 2014 CITY WINERY 155 VARICK STREET, NEW YORK CITY


Great Wines Of

BORDEAUX

Download The App! Search Buy Wine Now in the App Store Insert Event Code: Zachys after registering • Take notes and rate your favorite wines • Find the tables for the wines you want to taste • Read reviews & scores • Buy wines directly from zachys.com with just a few taps!


Bordeaux is Bordeaux

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o other wine is like bordeaux. It is the reference point for fine wine, with centuries of pedigree and quality, and the region is making some of the most complex and interesting wines in the world at the moment. That’s why James Suckling & Zachys Present Great Wines of Bordeaux, tonight at City Winery on March 11 in New York City, is such an exciting prospect. So many interesting châteaux are here tonight — and so many outstanding wines. My love for great Bordeaux started as a teenager at home with my father in Los Angeles. He occasionally served me a glass of great Bordeaux in the hope that I would one day acquire a passion for wine. It was the beginning of a lifetime for me as a wine critic. That’s why Bordeaux is so special to me. What also makes Bordeaux special is its ability to age with grace and provide wines with brightness and freshness as well as fruit and texture. It’s not about big, voluptuous fruit that grabs your attention; it’s about subtelty, refinement and complexity. It’s like comparing classic music or fine jazz to head-jarring rock ‘n’ roll. Granted, I love rock ‘n’ roll and opulent wines, but something seems to touch your mind and soul with sophisticated music and wines. I hope we will experience both tonight. The past decade or so has been excellent for Bordeaux. The new millennium began with a superb vintage, one that was deemed a Vintage of the Century from the beginning. Indeed, 2000 was and is a great year, and

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its top wines are now beginning to show their true greatness. Except for 2002 and 2013, there hasn’t been a weak vintage in Bordeaux since. And there have been plenty of great ones, including 2000, 2005, 2009 and 2010. Many outstanding wines have been produced in the past decade, and many have come from lesser-known estates, and from lesser-known appellations such as Fronsac and Côtes de Bordeaux Castillon. Try to seek out some of those appellations and producers in tonight’s tasting. Another exciting development is the improvement in viticulture and wine-making in lesser-rated vintages. It doesn’t make sense to just buy the top vintages. Some wonderful wines were made in years such as 2001, 2004, 2006, and they are drinking incredibly now: Try some tonight. This amazing array of very good to outstanding vintages, appellations and wineries makes Bordeaux a unique and fascinating wine region. It also means that you don’t have to spend a fortune to drink excellent bottles of Bordeaux — red, dry white and sweet white. Taste the wines tonight and check out the prices on the smartphone app. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. Yes, Bordeaux offers value. I hope tonight inspires you as wine lover to embrace Bordeaux for all that it has to offer, whether it’s an amazing taste of aged second-growth red or fresh, intense, young premier-cru Sauternes. It’s all here. James Suckling

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Great Wines Of Bordeaux We Are On A Roll!

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oming hot on the heels of our very successful super Tuscany tasting, I could not be more excited to be co-hosting, with James Suckling, this incredible tasting of the Great Wines of Bordeaux.

When James approached us last year with the concept of a three-part tasting series in the first half of 2014, showcasing the best of the best from Italy and Bordeaux, we didn’t have to think long before we said yes. This Bordeaux tasting, the second in the series, is a powerhouse that features wines from the best châteaux in Bordeaux. When James and I started reaching out to châteaux, our goal was simple: to bring you the best Bordeaux in class from all regions and price points — wines that were highly rated by James, that are mostly ready to drink right now, and that are available for sale. I am very proud to say that we have organized one of the best Bordeaux tastings I have ever seen. We have more than 50 producers here, showing some of their best recently made wines. For the past 50 years Bordeaux has been a major part of Zachys. When we started selling Bordeaux, there was really nowhere else to go for fine wine. Now there are numerous regions producing great wines, but Bordeaux still makes some of the greatest. And the best thing of all: These wines are made in sufficient quantities that there’s enough for everyone. I hope you enjoy the tasting. Jeff Zacharia

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CHÂTEAU CALON-SÉGUR TABLE ??

SAVE THE DATE! James Suckling & Zachys Present

THE GREAT B’s: Brunello & Barolo May 6, 2014 • City Winery, NYC For more information, visit zachys.com

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Incredible Deals on France’s Finest! Shop the Zachys Gazette to save up to 58% on the finest wines of Bordeaux, Burgundy & Rhone

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Tasting Map at City Winery

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Wineries

(Alphabetically)

Wine

Table

Château Beychevelle................................................................................................... 10 Château Brane-Cantenac...........................................................................................11 Château Calon-Ségur .................................................................................................. 12 Château Canon .............................................................................................................. 13 Château Cantemerle ................................................................................................... 15 Château Clerc Milon ..................................................................................................... 16 Château d’Issan ............................................................................................................. 18 Château Dalem ..............................................................................................................20 Château de Lamarque ................................................................................................ 21 Château Doisy-Védrines ............................................................................................. 9 Château du Tertre ........................................................................................................27 Château Faugéres ......................................................................................................... 8 Château Fombrauge ....................................................................................................23 Château Fonplegade ...................................................................................................25 Château Fontenil ..........................................................................................................26 Château Giscours ........................................................................................................27 Château Grand-Pontet ...............................................................................................29 Château Guiraud ............................................................................................................ 2 Château Haut-Brisson.................................................................................................30 Château Haut-Bailly .....................................................................................................28 Château Haut-Brion ...................................................................................................... 5 Château Haut-Marbuzet ............................................................................................ 31 Château Kirwan ..............................................................................................................32 Château La Fleur Morange .........................................................................................33 Château La Lagune .......................................................................................................34 Château La Mission Haut-Brion ................................................................................ 6 Château La Tour Carnet ............................................................................................24 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey ..................................................................................... 7 Château Lagrange .........................................................................................................44 Château Larcis-Ducasse ............................................................................................36 Château Laroque ..........................................................................................................22 Château Latour ..............................................................................................................50 Château Latour Martillac ............................................................................................38 Château Le Bon Pasteur .............................................................................................26 Château Léoville Las Cases.......................................................................................39 Château Léoville Poyferré..........................................................................................40 Château Lyonnat........................................................................................................... 41 Château Malartic Lagraviére ...................................................................................... 3 Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry ...........................................................................42 Château Montrose ........................................................................................................43 Château Mouton Rothschild ..................................................................................... 17 Château Pape Clément ..............................................................................................23 Château Pavie Macquin ..............................................................................................35 Château Péby Faugéres............................................................................................... 8 Château Pédesclaux .................................................................................................... 19 Château Pipeau .............................................................................................................45 Château Prieure-Lichine ............................................................................................46 Château Rauzan-Ségla ................................................................................................ 14 Château Siran .................................................................................................................47 Château Smith Haut Lafitte........................................................................................ 4 Château Teyssier ..........................................................................................................48 Château Villemaurine ..................................................................................................49 Clos Haut-Peyraguey ...................................................................................................24 Domaine de Chevalier ...................................................................................................1 Vieux Château Certan .................................................................................................37

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16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 30 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 34 33 35 37 38 40 41 36 42 39 43 44 45 46 47 29 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 27 55 26 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 42 64 65


Wine

(Alphabetically)

Wine

Table

Chateau Beychevelle Saint-Julien 2010 ............................................................... 10 Chateau Beychevelle Saint-Julien 2009 .............................................................. 10 Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2006.............................................................11 Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2005 .............................................................11 Château Calon-Ségur Saint-Estéphe 2006 ........................................................ 12 Château Calon-Ségur Saint-Estéphe 2003 ........................................................ 12 Clos Canon Saint-Émilion 2009 .............................................................................. 13 Château Canon Saint-Émilion 2006 ...................................................................... 13 Château Canon Saint-Émilion 2001 ....................................................................... 13 Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2010 .............................................................. 15 Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2009............................................................. 15 Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2009........................................................................ 16 Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2005 ........................................................................ 16 Château d’Issan Margaux 2010 ................................................................................ 18 Château d’Issan Margaux 2005 ............................................................................... 18 Château Dalem Fronsac 2010 ..................................................................................20 Château Dalem Fronsac 2001 ..................................................................................20 Château de Lamarque Haut-Medoc 2010 ........................................................... 21 Château de Lamarque Haut-Medoc 2009 .......................................................... 21 Château Doisy-Védrines Sauternes 2010............................................................. 9 Château Doisy-Védrines Sauternes 2006............................................................ 9 Château Faugéres Saint-Émilion 2008 ................................................................. 8 Château Péby Faugéres Saint-Émilion 2008....................................................... 8 Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 2007 ...............................................23 Château Fombrauge Saint-Émilion 2007 ............................................................23 Château Fonplegade Saint-Émilion 2010 ............................................................25 Château Fonplegade Saint-Émilion 2009 ...........................................................25 Château Fontenil Fronsac 2008 .............................................................................26 Château Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol 2010 ................................................................26 Château Giscours Margaux 2005 ...........................................................................27 Château du Tertre Margaux 2005...........................................................................27 Château Grand-Pontet Saint-Émilion 2010 ........................................................29 Château Grand-Pontet Saint-Émilion 2003 .......................................................29 Château Guiraud Sauternes 2009 .......................................................................... 2 Château Guiraud Sauternes 2001 ........................................................................... 2 La Parde de Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2010 .................................................28 Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2005.......................................................28 Château Haut-Brisson Saint-Émilion La Reserve 2010...................................30 Château Haut-Brisson Saint-Émilion 2010..........................................................30 La Clarté de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2010 ..................................... 5 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2008 ............................. 5 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2009 ..................... 6 Clarendelle Bordeaux 2010 ........................................................................................ 6 Château Quintus Saint-Émilion 2011 ...................................................................... 6 Château Haut-Marbuzet Saint-Estéphe 2005................................................... 31 Château Haut-Marbuzet Saint-Estéphe 2004 .................................................. 31 Château Kirwan Margaux 2010 .................................................................................32 Château Kirwan Margaux 2009 ................................................................................32 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes 2010 .................................................... 7 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes 2005 ................................................... 7 Château La Fleur Morange Saint-Émilion 2004 .................................................33 Château La Fleur Morange Saint-Émilion 2001 ..................................................33 Château La Lagune Haut-Medoc 2009 ................................................................34 Château La Lagune Haut-Medoc 2004 ................................................................34 Château La Tour Carnet Haut-Medoc 2010........................................................24

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Wine

(Alphabetically)

WineScore

Table

Clos Haut-Peyraguey Sauternes 2010 ..................................................................24 Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2010 .....................................................................44 Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2005 ....................................................................44 Château Larcis-Ducasse Saint-Émilion 2010 .....................................................36 Château Larcis-Ducasse Saint-Émilion 2006 ....................................................36 Château Laroque Saint-Émilion 2010 ...................................................................22 Château Laroque Saint-Émilion 2009 ..................................................................22 Pauillac de Château Latour Pauillac 2009 ...........................................................50 Château Latour Pauillac Les Forts de Latour 2008..........................................50 Château Latour Martillac Pessac-Léognan 2008 .............................................38 Château Latour Martillac Pessac-Léognan 2005 .............................................38 Château Potensac Médoc 2003 .............................................................................39 Clos du Marquis Saint-Julien 2000.........................................................................39 Château Leoville Las Cases Saint-Julien 2000..................................................39 Château Léoville Poyferré Saint-Julien 2006 .....................................................40 Château Léoville Poyferré Saint-Julien 2000.....................................................40 Château Lyonnat Lussac Saint-Émilion Emotion 2010 .................................. 41 Château Lyonnat Lussac Saint-Émilion Emotion 2009 ................................. 41 Château Malartic Lagraviére Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2010 ............................ 3 Château Malartic Lagraviére Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2010 ........................... 3 Château Malartic Lagraviére Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2005 .......................... 3 Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry Margaux 2009 .............................................42 Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry Margaux 2005..............................................42 Château Montrose Saint-Estéphe 2010 ...............................................................43 Château Montrose Saint-Estéphe 2008 ..............................................................43 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 2009 .................................................... 17 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 2005..................................................... 17 Château Pavie Macquin Saint-Émilion 2010 .......................................................35 Château Pavie Macquin Saint-Émilion 2006 ......................................................35 Château Pédesclaux Pauillac 2010......................................................................... 19 Château Pédesclaux Pauillac 2009........................................................................ 19 Château Pipeau Saint-Émilion 2011 ........................................................................45 Château Pipeau Saint-Émilion 2010 ......................................................................45 Château Prieure-Lichine Margaux 2010 ...............................................................46 Château Prieure-Lichine Margaux 2009 ..............................................................46 Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux Ségla 2009 ...................................................... 14 Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2005 .................................................................. 14 Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2001 ................................................................... 14 Château Siran Margaux 2010 ....................................................................................47 Château Siran Margaux 2004 ...................................................................................47 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2011 ............................... 4 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2010 ............................ 4 Château Teyssier Pessac-Léognan 2010.............................................................48 Château Teyssier Saint-Émilion Le Carré 2009 ................................................48 Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion 2011 ............................................................49 Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion 2010 ...........................................................49 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2010 .........................................1 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2010 ........................................1 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2000 ......................................1 Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2006 ...................................................................37 Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2002 ...................................................................37

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Wine

(by Score)

Wine

Table

Page

100 POINTS Château Leoville Las Cases Saint-Julien 2000..................................................39

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99 POINTS Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2010 ........................................1

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98 POINTS Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry Margaux 2009 ............................................ 42

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97 POINT Château Larcis-Ducasse Saint-Émilion 2010 .................................................... 36 Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry Margaux 2005............................................. 42 Château Montrose Saint-Estéphe 2010 .............................................................. 43 Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2005 ..................................................................14

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96 POINTS Chateau Beychevelle Saint-Julien 2009 ............................................................. 10 Château Guiraud Sauternes 2009 ..........................................................................2 Château La Lagune Haut-Medoc 2009 ............................................................... 34 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2011 .............................. 4 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2010 .......................................1

16 32 41 61 64

95 POINTS Chateau Beychevelle Saint-Julien 2010 .............................................................. 10 Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2009.............................................................15 Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2009........................................................................16 Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2005 ........................................................................16 Château Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol 2010 ............................................................... 26 Château Guiraud Sauternes 2001 ...........................................................................2 Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2005...................................................... 28 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes 2005 ...................................................7 Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2010 ....................................................................44 Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2005 ...................................................................44 Château Malartic Lagraviére Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2010 ............................3 Château Malartic Lagraviére Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2010 ...........................3 Château Pavie Macquin Saint-Émilion 2010 ...................................................... 35 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2010 ........................... 4

16 20 21 21 29 32 33 39 43 43 51 51 55 61

94 POINTS Château Calon-Ségur Saint-Estéphe 2003 ........................................................12 Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2010 ..............................................................15 Château d’Issan Margaux 2010 ................................................................................18 Château Doisy-Védrines Sauternes 2006........................................................... 9 Château Giscours Margaux 2005 .......................................................................... 27 Château Haut-Brisson Saint-Émilion La Reserve 2010..................................30 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2009 .................... 6 Clarendelle Bordeaux 2010 ....................................................................................... 6 Château Kirwan Margaux 2009 ............................................................................... 32 Clos du Marquis Saint-Julien 2000........................................................................ 39 Château Montrose Saint-Estéphe 2008 ............................................................. 43 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 2009 ....................................................17 Château Prieure-Lichine Margaux 2010 ..............................................................46 Château Prieure-Lichine Margaux 2009 .............................................................46 Château Siran Margaux 2010 ................................................................................... 47 Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2006 .................................................................. 37

18 20 22 25 30 34 36 36 38 48 53 54 58 58 60 65

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Wine

(by Score)

Wine

Table

Page

93 POINTS Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2005 ............................................................ 11 Château Fonplegade Saint-Émilion 2009 .......................................................... 25 Château Grand-Pontet Saint-Émilion 2010 ....................................................... 29 Château Haut-Brisson Saint-Émilion 2010.........................................................30 La Clarté de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2010 .....................................5 Château Haut-Marbuzet Saint-Estéphe 2005...................................................31 Château Kirwan Margaux 2010 ................................................................................ 32 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes 2010 ....................................................7 Château La Lagune Haut-Medoc 2004 ............................................................... 34 Château Latour Martillac Pessac-Léognan 2005 ............................................ 38 Château Léoville Poyferré Saint-Julien 2000....................................................40 Château Pavie Macquin Saint-Émilion 2006 ..................................................... 35 Château Pédesclaux Pauillac 2010.........................................................................19 Château Pédesclaux Pauillac 2009........................................................................19 Château Teyssier Saint-Émilion Le Carré 2009 ...............................................48 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2000 .....................................1

17 28 31 34 35 37 38 39 41 47 49 55 56 56 62 64

92 POINTS Clos Canon Saint-Émilion 2009 ..............................................................................13 Château d’Issan Margaux 2005 ...............................................................................18 Château Dalem Fronsac 2010 ................................................................................. 20 Château Doisy-Védrines Sauternes 2010............................................................ 9 Château Péby Faugéres Saint-Émilion 2008...................................................... 8 Château Fonplegade Saint-Émilion 2010 ........................................................... 25 Château du Tertre Margaux 2005.......................................................................... 27 Château Grand-Pontet Saint-Émilion 2003 ...................................................... 29 Château Quintus Saint-Émilion 2011 ..................................................................... 6 Château La Tour Carnet Haut-Medoc 2010....................................................... 24 Clos Haut-Peyraguey Sauternes 2010 ................................................................. 24 Château Larcis-Ducasse Saint-Émilion 2006 ................................................... 36 Château Laroque Saint-Émilion 2010 .................................................................. 22 Pauillac de Château Latour Pauillac 2009 ..........................................................50 Château Latour Pauillac Les Forts de Latour 2008.........................................50 Château Potensac Médoc 2003 ............................................................................ 39 Château Lyonnat Lussac Saint-Émilion Emotion 2010 ..................................41 Château Lyonnat Lussac Saint-Émilion Emotion 2009 .................................41 Château Pipeau Saint-Émilion 2010 ..................................................................... 45 Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux Ségla 2009 ......................................................14 Château Teyssier Pessac-Léognan 2010............................................................48 Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion 2010 ..........................................................49 Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2002 .................................................................. 37

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91 POINTS Château Calon-Ségur Saint-Estéphe 2006 ........................................................12 Château Canon Saint-Émilion 2001 .......................................................................13 Château Dalem Fronsac 2001 ................................................................................. 20 Château de Lamarque Haut-Medoc 2010 ...........................................................21 Château de Lamarque Haut-Medoc 2009 ..........................................................21 Château Faugéres Saint-Émilion 2008 ................................................................ 8 La Parde de Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2010 ................................................ 28 Château Haut-Marbuzet Saint-Estéphe 2004 ..................................................31 Château La Fleur Morange Saint-Émilion 2004 ................................................ 33 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 2005.....................................................17 Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2001 ...................................................................14 Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion 2011 ...........................................................49

18 19 23 24 24 26 33 37 40 54 59 63

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Wine

(by Score)

Wine

Table

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90 POINTS Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2006............................................................ 11 Château Canon Saint-Émilion 2006 ......................................................................13 Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 2007 .............................................. 23 Château Fontenil Fronsac 2008 ............................................................................ 26 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2008 .............................5 Château La Fleur Morange Saint-Émilion 2001 ................................................. 33 Château Laroque Saint-Émilion 2009 ................................................................. 22 Château Latour Martillac Pessac-Léognan 2008 ............................................ 38 Château Léoville Poyferré Saint-Julien 2006 ....................................................40 Château Malartic Lagraviére Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2005 ..........................3 Château Pipeau Saint-Émilion 2011 ....................................................................... 45 Château Siran Margaux 2004 .................................................................................. 47

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NO SCORE Château Fombrauge Saint-Émilion 2007 ........................................................... 23

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The Zachys Auction Featuring A Grand Tour Of The Cote D’Or And A Meticulous Connoisseur’s Majestic Array Of White Burgundy Thursday, March 13 and Friday, March 14, 2014

Place Your Bids!

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Great Wines of Bordeaux More than 50 top wineries pour some of the best and most drinkable vintages in the last two decades

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CHÂTEAU BEYCHEVELLE

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This château is extremely popular in Asia due to its “dragon boat” label, but it’s what’s in the bottle recently that impresses me. Beychevelle, a fourth-growth estate in the appellation of SaintJulien, has made outstanding wines of late thanks to upgrades in viticulture and winemaking. Even its second wine, Amiral de Beychevelle, is much, much better quality. What strikes me about the wines of Beychevelle is their wonderful finesse and polished texture. It’s all about integrated tannins. The first wine is usually a blend of slightly more than half cabernet sauvignon and the remainder merlot and tiny amounts of cabernet franc and petit verdot. Beychevelle is very approachable when young but shows its outstanding pedigree with seven to eight years of bottle age and beyond. I have been lucky enough to drink the 1961 Beychevelle a number of times recently and it shows incredible freshness and refinement, making me think the 2010 has a similar future ahead of it.

TASTING Chateau Beychevelle Saint-Julien 2009 A subtle, refined 2009 with complex aromas and flavors of currants, smoke, minerals and lead pencil. Full body with ultra-refined tannins and a long, long finish. An integrated, beautiful Beychevelle. Hard not to drink now but will be much better in 2017. A wine for long-term aging. (96 points) Chateau Beychevelle Saint-Julien 2010 Beautiful aromas of blackberries, currants and flowers. Very aromatic. Full body with ultra-fine tannins and gorgeous fruit. It’s polished and very refined. One of the best Beychevelles in years. Try in 2018. (95 points)

www.beychevelle.com

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CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC

TABLE 11

The wines of Brane-Cantenac are rather shy in their infancy, showing lots of subtle, intense aromatic quality but less on the palate. With a few years of bottle age, though, they grow in personality and richness to deliver a soulful glass of red Bordeaux. Owner and winemaker Henri Lurton continues to improve his wines, fine-tuning his vineyards and his winery to make the best possible wine each year for his special terroir. Consistency in quality is this beautiful Margaux property’s byword. I still remember tasting amazing bottles of 1929 and 1928 Brane-Cantenac and I can only hope great recent vintages such as the 2005 will follow suit.

TASTING Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2005 Attractive aromas of blueberries, flowers and spices. It is focused and subtle. Full body, layered and pretty with polished tannins. Drink now. (93 points) Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2006 Fresh and clean with pretty berry and currant character. It’s full- to mediumbodied, with firm tannins and a clean, caressing finish. Drink now. (90 points)

www.brane-cantenac.com

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CHÂTEAU CALON-SÉGUR

TABLE 12

This is a legendary wine estate in the appellation of Saint-Estèphe that made its reputation on great vintages of the 1940s, but I believe that its recent cabernet sauvignon-based reds will rival those historical legends in the bottle. The wines are muscular and powerful when young and show tight, toned tannins with reserved fruit and spice character. They are built for ageing. The property was sold in 2012 to a French insurance group, and an impressive team was quickly put in charge. Stay tuned for more excellent wines.

TASTING Château Calon-Ségur Saint-Estéphe 2003 This shows so wonderfully now with a dense palate yet a delicate chocolate, mineral and walnut skin. Full and velvety. Wonderful, with a long, juicy finish. Almost Burgundian in texture. (94 points) Château Calon-Ségur Saint-Estéphe 2006 Aromas of perfumes and blueberries with minerals. Medium to full body, fine tannins and a tangy, fresh finish. Attractive tension and austerity to this. Savory and juicy. Drink now or hold. (91 points)

www.calon-segur.fr

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CHÂTEAU CANON

TABLE 13

This top Saint-Émilion estate is one of the few with its vineyards completely surrounded by walls, near the medieval village bearing the name of the appellation. It gives the vineyards the feel of a well-kept garden or a top vineyard in Burgundy. The wines are long-lived, ultra-refined and gloriously complex. Canons from the 1950s and 1960s are legends today with wine collectors, and I think that recent vintages since 1998 show similar greatness. As new vineyard plantings come into their own, today’s reds should be Canon’s best ever. The property shares its owners with Margaux’s Château Rauzan-Ségla – and with legendary fashion house Chanel.

TASTING Château Canon Saint-Émilion 2001 There’s a clarity and harmony to this wine now, with subtle aromas of berries, earth and hints of bitter chocolate. Medium to full body with fine tannins and a clean, fresh finish. Very fine indeed. Drink or hold. (91 points) Château Canon Saint-Émilion 2006 Subtle aromas of flowers, orange peel and chocolate. Full- to medium-bodied. Silky tannins with a pretty floral finish. Enjoyable and approachable wine. Subtle and balanced. (90 points) Clos Canon Saint-Émilion 2009 Aromas of prunes, spices and flowers follow through to a full body, with silky tannins and a juicy finish. Fresh and clean. The second wine of Canon. Best after 2016. (92 points)

www.chateaucanon.com

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CHÂTEAU CANTEMERLE

TABLE 15

This is one of the best wine estates in the Haut-Médoc appellation, consistently producing refined, balanced reds with fine tannins and complex character – at a reasonable price. The property is located in the south of the Médoc and the vineyards are large: about 222 acres. The substantial amount of merlot planted – about 30% – gives its wines a softer, more accessible style, especially when young, even though most of the vineyard is cabernet sauvignon. But the wines age very well, particularly those from top vintages.

TASTING Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2009 Gorgeous ripe fruit character, with loads of blueberries, blackberries and flowers. Full body with velvety tannins and a fruity, fresh, grapefruit aftertaste. Really beautiful. Best ever from here. Best after 2018. (95 points) Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2010 Layered and rich with lots of blueberry character and ripe, velvety tannins. Lovely texture. Better to drink in 2017 and onwards. (94 points)

www.cantemerle.com

20


CHÂTEAU CLERC MiLON

TABLE 16

Many people rightly call Clerc Milon a baby Mouton Rothschild, because the extremely aromatic, structured style of its wines is similar to the great wines of the famous first growth. Clerc shares the same owners as Mouton, and therefore receives the same attention and savoir faire in the vineyard and the winery. A new winery should only add to the expertise at Clerc. The wines are consistently rich and fruity with a powerful tannin backbone. They are long-aging reds and show the classic cabernet sauvignon strength of the appellation. You’ll see how youthful the 2005 is in this tasting.

TASTING Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2005 Strong aromas of graphite, tar and currants. Full body with soft tannins that dance on the palate. Balanced and beautiful. A truly phenomenal wine. Drink or hold. (95 points) Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2009 What an amazing nose of lead-pencil shavings and dark fruits. Stunning. Full-bodied, with super-silky tannins and an amazing depth of fruit. Polished and refined. Gorgeous. Best after 2017. (95 points)

www.chateau-clerc-milon.com

21


CHÂTEAU d’iSSAN

TABLE 18

The motto on the label of this beautiful Margaux château is “Regum Mensis Aris Que Deorum,” or “For the Table of Kings and the Abode of Gods.” The wines of d’Issan, though, have always been for every Bordeaux wine lover because of their reasonable prices and their very good to outstanding quality, especially in recent vintages. Emmanuel Cruse, an owner and the head of d’Issan, has methodically improved the wines through careful viticulture and winemaking since he took over in 1998. The wines now show a subtlety and depth of fruit that they lacked before, as the 2010 proves. It’s one of the best ever vintages from d’Issan and displays wonderful richness and focus.

TASTING Château d’issan Margaux 2005 Blackberry and black licorice aromas with some spice and tar. Full body with chewy tannins. Long-lasting finish. Drink or hold. (92 points) Château d’issan Margaux 2010 Gorgeous ripe fruit in this, with plum, black cherries and spices on the nose and palate. Full body with soft tannins and a long, long finish. Very refined and focused. Best from here in decades. Try after 2018. (94 points)

www.chateau-issan.com

22


CHÂTEAU dALEM

TABLE 20

This small château underlines the impressive quality of wines that a lesser-known name in Bordeaux can produce – and it sells its wines at equally impressive prices. Its appellation, Fronsac, was one of the best in France about two centuries ago, so there is also fine wine-making pedigree. The reds are almost entirely made from merlot, with a touch of cabernet franc, but they are strong and muscular when young. They need at least four or five years to really show what this historic and soulful area of Bordeaux can produce: Check out the 2001 in the tasting.

TASTING Château dalem Fronsac 2001 A solid 2001 with dried spices, flowers and berries. Full to medium body with silky tannins and a fresh acidity. Drink now, but aging gracefully. (91 points) Château dalem Fronsac 2010 Attractive nose with grilled meat, violets and crushed chalk. Opens up with dark plums and raspberries. Beautifully textured with good body and velvet tannins. Soft and round with a long, precise finish. Drinks well already, but better in 2015. (92 points)

www.chateaudalem.com

23


CHÂTEAU dE LAMARqUE

TABLE 21

As long as I have been drinking Bordeaux, the wines of Château de Lamarque have offered exceptional value. The fabulous castle of Lamarque is between the appellations of Margaux and SaintJulien in the Haut-Médoc. Its wines seem much closer in style to Saint-Julien, with a beautiful richness of fruit but a firmness and tension caused by the intense tannin backbone. This is because it is mostly made of cabernet sauvignon, along with merlot and a tiny amount of petit verdot. The wines are very approachable when young but they age incredibly well. Check out the most recent top vintages being served at this event, and understand that outstanding Bordeaux doesn’t need to cost a fortune.

TASTING Château de Lamarque Haut-Medoc 2009 Soft and fruity with chocolate and berry, silky tannins and a long, delicious finish. The tannins really kick in at the end. Better in a couple of years. (91 points) Château de Lamarque Haut-Medoc 2010 Extremely well done for the vintage with very pretty fruit, firm but polished tannins and a caressing finish. It’s fullbodied, with super-integrated fruit and tannins, and an intense finish. Best ever from here. Better in 2015. (91 points)

www.chateaudelamarque.fr

24


CHÂTEAU dOiSY-VÉdRiNES

TABLE 9

The sweet wines of this Barsac estate are under the radar of many Sauternes lovers, yet it makes compelling wines that need to be recognized. Doisy-Vedrines is the property of the Castéjas, the same family who own Bordeaux’s most prestigious wine merchant, Joanne. Olivier Castéja is the winemaker and insists on making traditional-style Sauternes with incredible density and richness. The 2006 is drinking wonderfully and underlines the beauty of the vintage, while the 2010 is a wine for the future: Compare the two.

TASTING Château doisy-Védrines Sauternes 2006 Beautiful golden-green color. It’s so aromatic, with dried pineapple, honey and guava. Full body, medium-sweet and oily, with wonderful richness and length. The lemon curd, cream and vanilla aftertaste goes on for minutes. This is already fabulous to drink. Enjoy. (94 points) Château doisy-Védrines Sauternes 2010 Delicate, pure nose with peach, mandarin and white flowers. Even some chalky, mineral notes and orange blossom. This pretty dessert wine is medium-sweet with a charming texture and fruit on the palate. Nicely balanced with a silky finish. Drink from 2015. (92 points)

25


CHÂTEAU FAUGèRES & CHÂTEAU PÉBY FAUGèRES

TABLE 8

Swiss entrepreneur Silvio Denz makes two fabulous wines in Saint-Émilion. Both vineyards were recently upgraded to grand cru classé status. Faugères is a blend of merlot with some cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, while Peby Faugères is pure merlot. Both wines show a wonderful richness and intensity, with a concentration of fruit and velvety tannins seldom seen in their area. Denz produces the reds in a neoclassical winery at Faugères created by the great Italian architect Mario Botta. It is this combination of tradition and modernity that makes the wines of Denz so very special.

TASTING Château Faugéres Saint-Émilion 2008 Very perfumed aromas of cabernet franc, with dark fruits and dark chocolate. Minerals, too. Full body with chewy tannins and a fresh, mineral aftertaste. Plenty going on here. Starting to drink beautifully now. (91 points) Château Péby Faugéres SaintÉmilion 2008 Intense aromas and flavors of dried herbs, blackberries and minerals. Full and chewy, with loads going on. Structured and rich for the vintage. Try after 2014. (92 points)

www.chateau-faugeres.com www.chateau-peby-faugeres.com

26


BERNARd MAGREz (CHÂTEAU PAPE CLÉMENT & CHÂTEAU FOMBRAUGE)

TABLE 23

The fabulous wine estate of Pape Clément encompasses some of the best soils of Pessac-Léognan. It is the flagship château of the dynamic wine merchant Bernard Magrez, who owns numerous estates, including two others at this tasting: Château La Tour Carnet and Clos Haut-Peyraguey. Magrez has certainly improved the wines of Pape Clément to stellar levels, both the structured white and decadently rich red. The wines of the past 10 years have been of super quality, and it’s only going to continue. Meanwhile, his Fombrauge is a force in Saint-Émilion, not only because it is the largest fine-wine estate in the region but also because the wines are consistently outstanding in both quality and price.

TASTING Château Pape Clément PessacLéognan 2007 Drinking well now. A wine that shows stone, berry and cherry character, plus tobacco and earth. Medium to full body, fine tannins and a fresh finish. Refined for the vintage. (90 points) Château Fombrauge Saint-Émilion 2007 Blackberry and mineral aromas. Medium body with fine tannins and fruit on the finish. Slightly lean, but balanced and attractive.

www.fombrauge.com www.bernard-magrez.com

27


CHÂTEAU FONPLEGAdE

TABLE 25

American-owned Château Fonplegade is becoming one of the most beautiful wine estates in Saint-Émilion due to the impressive renovations to the winery, château and vineyards over the plast few years. Stephen and Denise Adams spare nothing in making their estate a wonderland for producing world-class wines. They bought the property, with its beautiful, organically farmed hillside vineyards, in 2003. They also own Château L’Enclos in nearby Pomerol as well as wineries in California including Adamvs on Napa Valley’s Howell Mountain. I find the newer vintages of Fonplegade more refined and harmonious, and they will most certainly elevate this winery in the minds of Bordeaux collectors around the world.

TASTING Château Fonplegade Saint-Émilion 2009 Very attractive aromas of tar, blackberry and licorice that follow through to a full body, with ultra-fine tannins and a juicy finish. This is layered and beautiful, structured and fine. Try in 2018. (93 points) Château Fonplegade Saint-Émilion 2010 Intensely fruity nose with dark plums, blackberries and blueberries. Some pleasant animal notes and vanilla. Full-bodied and very softly textured. Beautifully managed tannins and good length. Lots of wood still. Chewy. Needs a year or two in bottle to resolve the tannins. Drink or hold. (92 points)

www.fonplegade.com

28


CHÂTEAU FONTENiL & CHÂTEAU LE BON PASTEUR

TABLE 26

This is the personal home and winery of celebrated wine consultant Michel Rolland and his winemaking wife Dany. It is located in the heart of the region of Fronsac, which still remains obscure in the minds of some Bordeaux lovers but shouldn’t, considering the wonderful, soulful character of the wines. Fontenil makes consistently outstanding wines in nearly every vintage. They are generous and fruity but firm and solid, which is very typical for the region. Fontenil is made mostly of merlot but shows serious structure, more like a cabernet sauvignon-based red. It always makes excellent-value reds. Meanwhile, Château Le Bon Pasteur epitomizes the evolution and improvements in winemaking in Pomerol since the 1980s more than just about any other winery. Michel Rolland, whose family owned the estate until recently, personally improved everything here, from picking later to malolactic fermentation in the barrel, resulting in ripe,

rich, formidable reds for three decades. The property was sold last year to a wine-loving Chinese businessman, and Rolland says Le Bon Pasteur will go from strength to strength under his guidance and the new ownership. TASTING Château Fontenil Fronsac 2008 Firm and linear, but plenty of blueberry and cherry aromas and flavors Full body with silky tannins and an intense finish. Just starting to become drinkable. (90 points) Château Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol 2010 What a wine. Cool purple fruit at first, with plums, coffee and red peppercorns. Very elegant on the palate, opening up with great texture and finesse. Deep and profound but still so harmonious. Hazelnut and chocolate. It comes together beautifully. (95 points)

www.rollandcollection.com/html

29


CHÂTEAU GiSCOURS & CHÂTEAU dU TERTRE

TABLE 27

The third-growth Margaux estate of Giscours has been on the rise ever since Dutch businessman Eric Albada Jelgersma bought the property in 1995. (He bought nearby Château du Tertre three years later.) However, Giscours has really come into its own in the past 10 years, producing outstanding wines almost every vintage after many years of trial and error in fine-tuning the viticulture and winemaking. There’s now a generosity and richness to the wines that is unique for the appellation of Margaux, where aromatic quality seems more important than palate structure. Château du Tertre makes altogether different wines from its famous third-growth sibling. They are strong and muscular when young and show an underlying earthiness that turns with time to flowers, tobacco, fruit and spices. This is a château that continues to improve its wines each year; the best is in the future.

TASTING Château Giscours Margaux 2005 Incredibly pure fruit in this wine, with crushed raspberries, blackberries and floral notes in the nose. Full and complete on the palate, with beautiful tannins and a very compacted center palate of fruit. Pull the cork in 2016. (94 points) Château du Tertre Margaux 2005 Wonderful balance of fruit, with currant and chocolate character. Full body with integrated tannins and a clean finish. Polished and refined. Drink or hold. (92 points)

www.chateau-giscours.com www.chateaudutertre.fr

30


CHÂTEAU GRANd-PONTET

TABLE 29

Sylvie Pourquet-Bécot nurtured this estate in the last decade to compete with the best names of Saint-Émilion. In fact, it is my favorite winery from the stable of her family, which also includes such properties as Beau-Séjour Bécot. What I like about the wines of Grand-Pontet is their richness of fruit, with a distinct form and mouthfeel from the vibrant tannins. It’s unique: The wine is more than three-quarters merlot with the rest cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, so you might expect a more easygoing red, but Grand-Pontet is seriously structured. Check out the 2010 at the tasting.

TASTING Château Grand-Pontet Saint-Émilion 2003 A round, rich, beautiful wine now with chocolate, coffee, berry and dried fruits. Some fig character. It’s fullbodied, soft-textured and intense on the finish. Drink and enjoy. (92 points) Château Grand-Pontet Saint-Émilion 2010 Aromas of incense, ripe berries and flowers follow through to a full body, with velvety tannins and ripe fruit. A wine that still needs time to come together: Try in 2018. (93 points)

www.chateaugrandpontet.com

31


CHÂTEAU GUiRAUd

TABLE 2

This is one of the top names of Sauternes, making powerful, rich sweet wines with a great density and profoundness. The noblerot character of the wine, which comes out as spicy and floral, is extremely intense in Guiraud, meaning the wines are very concentrated. This botrytis character stays with the wine through its evolution in-bottle. The last decade was a great one for the wines from here, although I have had excellent bottles from the 1990s and 1980s. New owners in 2006 assure continued success for this unique sweet-wine producer: They include Robert Peugeot, the automotive magnate; Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier; Stephan von Neipperg of Canon-la-Gaffelière; and longtime estate manager Xavier Planty.

TASTING Château Guiraud Sauternes 2001 Intensely fruity and rich with wonderful sweetness and loads of spice and honey character, plus a dried-apricot undertone. It hasn’t changed much since I last tasted it just bottled. Great 2001. Drink or hold. (95 points) Château Guiraud Sauternes 2009 Gorgeous aromas of dried apricots, apple-pie crust and pineapple. Fullbodied with medium sweetness. Dense and layered. Beautiful now but will improve with age. Drink or hold. (96 points)

www.chateauguiraud.fr

32


CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAiLLY

TABLE 28

Bordeaux aficionados have known for decades that the wines of Haut-Bailly are some of the most refined and soulful reds of the region of Pessac-Léognan. It made legendary wines during the first part of the 20th century but lost some of its luster thereafter. It wasn’t until American owner Robert Wilmers bought the estate in 1998 that Haut-Bailly came back to the exceptional quality levels of yesteryear. The style of the reds here shows a wonderful depth of character and structure but in an extremely elegant manner. These are wines that seduce you with their subtlety.

TASTING Château Haut-Bailly PessacLÉOGNAN 2005

This shows a great purity of fruit, with firm, direct notes of raspberries, strawberries and blackberries that open to intense notes of fresh flowers. Fullbodied with velvety tannins. This wine is tight and long -- you immediately know this is good. Drink or hold. (95 points) La Parde de Haut-Bailly PessacLéognan 2010 Attractive spicy nose with coffee and chocolate. Some juniper and black pepper. Blueberries and dark cherries. Vibrant and smooth on the palate with good fruit and fine, soft tannins. Smooth, long finish. Second wine of Haut-Bailly. Drink after 2015. (91 points)

www.chateau-haut-bailly.com

33


CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRiSSON

TABLE 30

Hong Kong resident Peter Kwok originally bought his SaintÉmilion wine estate in 1997 as a place for his family to immerse themselves in French culture, but it wasn’t long before he began to want to produce excellent red wines there. It took almost a decade to get things right, with the help of renowned consulting winemaker Michel Rolland. Now the wines have a structure and depth of flavor that Kwok never thought attainable. The wines are made from organically grown grapes. Haut-Brisson makes three wines – the Reserve bottling is the best.

TASTING Château Haut-brisson Saint-Émilion La Reserve 2010 Attractive nose of raspberries, red cherries, vanilla and some spicy nutmeg. Nice dense fruit on attack, turning silky and very refined. Nicely textured. Very rich and full of depth. Give it time. Subtle and sexy. Best wine ever from this estate. Try in 2016. (94 points) Château Haut-brisson Saint-Émilion 2010 I really like the refined texture to this young red, with lots raspberry and light chocolate character. Full and long. It shows wonderful depth and structure. Better in 2015 but pretty now. (93 points)

www.hautbrisson.com

34


dOMAiNE CLARENCE diLLON (CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRiON)

TABLE 5

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First-growth Haut-Brion is arguably the birthplace of fine wine, with vintages beginning in the 15th century. It makes compelling, almost mythical wines, both red and white. Its neighbor, La Mission, makes great wines with an almost religious austerity and clarity. Both are under the same ownership – the American Dillon family. The head of both châteaux is Prince Robert of Luxembourg. The second wines of Haut-Brion are often overlooked. Haut-Brion’s Le Clarence is the reincarnation of the wine previously known as Bahans Haut-Brion, sharing the same refinement as the first wine. La Clarté is a combination of the second white wines of HautBrion and La Mission.

TASTING Le Clarence de Haut-Brion PessacLéognan Rouge 2008 The second wine of Haut-Brion. Very pretty, subtle tannins, with hints of dried fruits and tobacco. Medium-to-full body with integrated tannins. (90 points) La Clarté de Haut-Brion PessacLéognan Blanc 2010 Aromas of lemons, limes and green apples follow through to a full body, with a dry palate and fruity finish. Plenty of dried pineapple and mangos. Drink or hold. (93 points)

www.haut-brion.com

35


dOMAiNE CLARENCE diLLON (CHÂTEAU LA MiSSiON HAUT-BRiON)

TABLE 6

If any estate deserved to be a first growth that isn’t already, Château La Mission Haut-Brion would be it. It is located across the street from the great Château Haut-Brion and it shares the same owner, the American Dillon family. La Mission has a great following here and deservedly so. Its second wine, La Chappelle, assimilates the purity of cabernet sauvignon from the estate’s first red. Also on pour tonight is the Dillon family’s new estate in Saint-Émilion, Château Quintus, as well as its popular Bordeaux blend Clarendelle.

TASTING La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2009 A gorgeous red, with sweet tobacco, plums, ripe strawberries and hints of cigar box. Full body with chewy, ripe tannins and a creamy texture. Dense and rich, but so balanced and beautiful. Second wine of La Mission Haut-Brion. Better in 2016. (94 points) Clarendelle Bordeaux 2010 Cranberries, graphite and strawberries. Sweet and charming on the palate with a medium to full body and pure red fruit. Fine, silky tannins and vibrant acidity with good length. Yummy Bordeaux for drinking or holding. (90 points) Château quintus Saint-Émilion 2011 Lovely berry and plum character with sweet tobacco, chocolate and leather. Full body and lightly chewy with just the right tension between tannins and fruit. Pretty finish with just a touch of wood at the end. Better in 2016. (92 points)

www.mission-haut-brion.com

36


CHÂTEAU HAUT-MARBUzET

TABLE 31

This wine estate is one of the best in the Saint-Estèphe appellation. I have long thought that it deserves to be a classified growth – but official rankings are hard to change in France. Regardless, the wines of Haut-Marbuzet show a density and structure that should impress anyone accustomed to drinking the best of Bordeaux. The fact that in many vintages Haut-Marbuzet ages its wines in 100% new French oak barrels underlines the strength and power of its reds. The wines are archetypal bottles from Saint-Estèphe, with a spicy, fruity character running through them.

TASTING Château Haut-Marbuzet SaintEstéphe 2004 Raspberry, blueberry and mineral character. Full body with super-fine tannins. A little austere now but just coming around. Shows a touch of class. (91 points) Château Haut-Marbuzet SaintEstéphe 2005 Aromas of milk chocolate, walnut shell and currants follow through to a full body, with soft, velvety tannins and a chewy finish. Serious depth of fruit here. Better in 2015 but so enticing now. (93 points)

37


CHÂTEAU KiRwAN

TABLE 32

This Margaux estate is one of the modern success stories of the Médoc. It wasn’t that long ago that the property made reds that were good but nothing special, but today the château produces very exciting wines that compare well to other third growths, not to mention second growths, in the Médoc. The wines show vibrant aromas of berries and flowers, and a rich, structured palate. The 2010 and 2009 are Kirwan’s best wines ever. I expect more exciting wines in the future.

TASTING Château Kirwan Margaux 2009 This is a wine that seduces you, with crushed blackberries and hints of dark chocolate that follow through to a full body, ultra-fine tannins and a tangy, fresh finish. Solid as a rock. Best ever from here. Try in 2019. (94 points) Château Kirwan Margaux 2010 Dried-berry and plum character on the nose and palate. Full body with chewy tannins and a juicy finish. Lots of beautiful, ripe fruit here. Better after 2017. (93 points)

www.chateau-kirwan.com

38


CHÂTEAU LAFAURiE-PEYRAGUEY

TABLE 7

This beautiful Sauternes estate was just purchased a month ago by Silvio Denz, the owner of the high-flying Saint-Émilion estates of Faugères and Péby Faugères. The relatively small estate has a long history for making excellent, fruit-forward Sauternes with an immediate richness and intensity. Denz plans to reduce the sweetwine production of the property and focus on the original, century-old vineyards to make even better and more selective wines. The two vintages served at today’s event are a glimpse into the huge potential here.

TASTING Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes 2005 This is powerful and racy with lots of class. Full body and very sweet with lots of spicy botrytis character. Intense. Drink or hold. (95 points) Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes 2010 This sweet wine shows a lot of caramel and honey character, with dried fruits such as pineapple. Full and mediumsweet with an oily, fruity finish. Drink or hold. (93 points)

www.lafaurie-peyraguey.com

39


CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR MORANGE

TABLE 33

This small château in SaintÉmilion underlines the improvement in the winemaking of the appellation in the past decade. With only about 10 acres of vineyards, it produces opulent, almost decadent wines with beautiful mineral and earth undertones. A large part of the quality comes from the old vines grown here: They average about 80 years old. This gives the wines a wonderful depth of character and flavor. The wines are usually a blend of 70% merlot and 30% cabernet franc. Look for its tiny-production bottling called Mathilde, which is a pure merlot – about 600 cases are made.

TASTING Château La Fleur Morange SaintÉmilion 2001 I like the decadent character of this wine, with a meat, walnut-shell and berry character. Full body with velvety tannins and a fresh finish. Drink or hold. (90 points) Château La Fleur Morange SaintÉmilion 2004 This is very well done, with wonderfully integrated, silky tannins and a berry, cherry, lightly mineral character. Full and very fine. Drink or hold. (91 points)

www.lafleurmorange.com

40


CHÂTEAU LA LAGUNE

TABLE 34

I have a long history with La Lagune and its savory, highquality wines. I fondly remember drinking superb bottles from the 1960s and 1970s while living in Paris in the 1980s, and I was always happy that the wines were not too expensive. Today, new vintages are just as memorable. Caroline Frey, who manages the estate and makes the wine for her family, has a deft hand in the vineyard as well as the cellar. Her current vintages are refined and polished with wonderful length and harmony. She also makes the wines of the iconic Rhône Valley winery of Paul Jaboulet Aîné, including the great Hermitage La Chapelle.

TASTING Château La Lagune Haut-Medoc 2004 This has a beautiful line of tannins and fruit, with a backbone of fresh acidity. It’s full-bodied, bright and racy. Gorgeous finish. Harmonious. Fine. Beautiful. Drink or hold. (93 points) Château La Lagune Haut-Medoc 2009 Fabulous aromas of licorice, flowers and blackcurrants follow through to a full body, with wonderful silky, caressing tannins and a long, flavorful finish. It’s complex and exceptional. Better in 2018 but so enjoyable now. (96 points)

www.chateau-lalagune.com

41


BERNARd MAGREz (CHÂTEAU LA TOUR CARNET & CHÂTEAU CLOS HAUT-PEYRAGUEY)

TABLE 24

These two estates are excellent examples of the magical hand of Bordeaux wine merchant Bernard Magrez. I have tasted some sensational wines from the 1950s and 1960s from La Tour Carnet but the quality fell off for almost four decades; however, many current vintages are the same quality as the great wines of yesteryear – or better. Clos Haut-Peyraguey, on the other hand, has consistently made pure, intense, beautiful Sauternes, particularly in recent top vintages such as 2001, 2003, 2005 and 2009. The ubiquitous Magrez is more than a magician; he is a man with passion for making excellent wine.

TASTING Château La Tour Carnet Haut-Medoc 2010 Impressive concentration for this appellation with aromas of prunes, plums and black pepper. Full body with round, velvety tannins and a long finish. Tight. Better after 2015. (92 points) Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey Sauternes 2010 Caramel and lots of vanilla and dried apricot in this Sauternes. Full, sweet and well balanced with deep structure and outstanding length. Lots of Sevilleorange and honey character. Drink now or hold. (92 points)

www.latour-carnet.com www.bernard-magrez.com

42


CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE

TABLE 44

This large château in the appellation of Saint-Julien has been quietly making outstanding wines since the early 1980s, when Japan’s beverage giant Suntory bought the property. It’s hard to think of a classified-growth estate in the Médoc making better wines for the money. There’s something very reflective, almost Zen, about the wines. They are direct and beautifully crafted, emphasizing the uniqueness of the soils and microclimates of the vineyards of Lagrange. The reds also are consistently of outstanding quality, regardless of the vintage. This underlines the excellent viticulture and winemaking at the estate.

TASTING Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2005 A wine that is all in harmony. This is really fabulous, with currants, blackberries and fresh flowers that follow through to a full body with super-welldefined tannins and a beautiful finish. So delicious now, but better in five years. (95 points) Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2010 Great nose of blueberries, spices and hints of walnuts. Full body with a long, lovely finish of well-integrated tannins. This is structured but all about finesse. Best in years. Try in 2018. (95 points)

www.chateau-lagrange.com

43


Château LarCis-DuCasse

TABLE 36

Over the past decade, Larcis-Ducasse has gone from making just very good wines to sensational ones, thanks in a large part to the care of Nicolas Thienpont, the estate manager. Current vintages show a formidable depth of fruit and complex character from the unique hillside soils of the property. I have tasted some incredible wines from here from the 1940s and 1950s, but I believe the wines made in the past 10 years here will surpass any of those unique bottles: Larcis-Ducasse has become one of the top estates of Saint-Émilion.

TASTING Château Larcis-Ducasse saintÉmilion 2006 This is very exciting, with a slightly exotic character of dark fruits, citrus and minerals. An almost orange-peel undertone. Full body with silky tannins and a delicious finish. Refined. It’s just starting to come around now. (92 points) Château Larcis-Ducasse saintÉmilion 2010 Wow. This is really intense with amazing dark-fruit character of crushed blueberries and minerals. It’s full-bodied, with super-integrated tannins and a superb finish that lasts for minutes. A fabulous wine. Better in 2019. (97 points)

www.larcis-ducasse.com

44


Château Laroque

TABLE 22

The spotlight often shines strongest on the top names of the appellation of Saint-Émilion, such as Cheval Blanc and Ausone, but many reds from the region are both excellent and attractively priced. Take the recent vintages of Laroque. Made primarily of merlot with a touch of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, the wines show beautiful character of dark fruit, tobacco and earth. These are the wines that tell you, the minute you put your nose in the glass, where they come from. It’s all about drinkability here.

TASTING Château Laroque saint-Émilion 2009 The velvety texture to this wine is very alluring, with blueberry, sweet-tobacco and mushroom character. Full body with ripe tannins and a clean finish. A little short. Try in 2015. (90 points) Château Laroque saint-Émilion 2010 Blackberries and dark chocolate at first. Opens up with leather, fresh wood and aniseed. Good body with pure fruit and a nice juicy acidity. Chewy with slightly firm tannins and lots of new wood that needs time to integrate. Try in 2017. (92 points)

www.chateau-laroque.com

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Château Latour

TABLE 50

The first-growth estate of Latour in Pauillac is arguably the greatest in the world. No winery has the pedigree and consistency for making great wines year in, year out. In fact, Latour has made more perfect, 100-point wines than any other winery in the world. So it should come as no surprise that its second and third wines are also excellent quality and share much of the same style, character, quality and tradition of the grand vin. The second wine, Les Forts de Latour, is a unique wine that comes from young vines and special parcels of the property’s vineyard. The wine labeled Pauillac is really the second wine of both the grand vin and Les Forts, although most people think of it as the third wine.

TASTING Les Forts de Latour Pauillac 2008 Caramel, flowers, currants and berries on the nose. Full and velvety with good density and lots of fruity elegance and balance. Very pretty. Give it four years of bottle age. (92 points) Pauillac de Château Latour 2009 Juicy and rich, with velvety tannins. Full and round, with lots of juicy fruit and meat, blackberries and currants. Classified-growth quality. Broad shoulders. Third wine of Latour. Better in 2016. (92 points)

www.chateau-latour.com

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Château Latour-MartiLLaC

TABLE 38

There’s something stoic in the wines of this Pessac-Léognan estate. The whites can be dense and powerful like a great white Burgundy while the reds are often so muscular and rigid that they seem like top wines from the northern Médoc than the gravelly soils of its region. The recent wines show more poise and refinement, and are among the best of the appellation.

TASTING Château Latour-Martillac PessacLéognan 2005 Aromas of crushed berries, flowers and stones. It’s very ripe and rich, but it remains fresh. It’s full-bodied, with silky tannins and a crisp finish. It needs another year or two to soften but it’s already gorgeous to drink. Decant an hour or two before. (93 points) Château Latour-Martillac PessacLéognan 2008 Blackberry, minerals, stones and fresh herbs on the nose. Full body with chewy tannins and a firm finish. Crisp and bright. This red is still a little young: Try in 2016. (90 points)

www.latourmartillac.com

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DoMaines DeLon (Château LÉoviLLe-Las Cases)

TABLE 39

The owner of this legendary estate in Saint-Julien, Jean Hubert Delon, likes to call his second growth “a first growth for wine lovers.” I agree. His phenomenalquality reds sell at significantly lower price than neighboring Latour or any other first growth. Taste his 100-point 2000 Las Cases this evening and see for yourself. Delon also makes an excellent second wine called Clos du Marquis, which is more like a unique wine from a special part of Las Cases’ vineyards, as well as a cru bourgeois from the northern Médoc, Potensac, which is consistently outstanding in quality and well-priced.

TASTING Clos du Marquis saint-Julien 2000 Strong aromas of plum, meat and spice with hints of licorice. Full body with firm tannins and velvety texture. Big and chewy. Some might call this a second wine, but it comes from a separate plot of vineyards, like its own estate. (94 points) Château Léoville-Las Cases saintJulien 2000 Intense aromas of berries, currants and minerals. Hints of mint on the nose as well. Full body with a long finish and silky tannins. Packed with fruit and tannins. A benchmark for the vintage. First-growth quality in a top-notch vintage. Drink now. (100 points) Château Potensac Médoc 2003 A red with a tangy acidity, and sweettobacco and berry character. Full body with a medium tannin structure and intense acidity. Just opening. This is surprisingly fresh and lively. Drink now. (92 points)

www.domaines-delon.com

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Château LÉoviLLe PoyFerrÉ

TABLE 40

Call them opulent, even flamboyant, but the wines of this secondgrowth estate from the region of Saint-Julien always impress me. They certainly are much more vibrant and fruity in style than those from the neighboring Léovilles – Barton and Las Cases – and this makes the wines much more approachable to drink when young. This could be partly due to the slightly higher percentage of merlot in the blend than the others, but most of it has to do with the excellent winemaking of Didier Cuvelier.

TASTING Château Léoville Poyferré saintJulien 2000 This has spices, meat, dark and ripe fruits, and light sultana character. Fullbodied, tight and firm with a beautiful freshness and great length, plus notes of licorice and citrus skin. Fascinating stuff. Just starting to show its true beauty in the glass. (93 points) Château Léoville Poyferré saintJulien 2006 Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice and spice. Medium to full body with fine tannins and a clean finish. (90 points)

www.leoville-poyferre.fr

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Château Lyonnat

TABLE 41

Here is an estate that is clearly making wines well above the normal quality level of its appellation, Lussac Saint-Émilion. Vineyards of close to 128 acres make fruity, structured reds with a unique mineral, earthy character that suggests excellent terroir in Saint-Émilion more than the satellite appellation from which it hails. Emotion is a pure-merlot special cuvée from 25 acres of old vines that has heart and soul.

TASTING Château Lyonnat Lussac saintÉmilion emotion 2009 This is very ripe and rich with intense aromas of prunes, berries and tar. Full body with velvety tannins and long finish. Extremely ripe and decadent style. Better after 2015 but delicious now. (92 points) Château Lyonnat Lussac saintÉmilion emotion 2010 Blackberries, sweet licorice and strawberries on the nose. Lots of new wood and vanilla. Full and very juicy on the palate with a pretty texture and serious length. Ripe tannins. The new wood needs to be integrated into the palate. Try in 2017. (92 points)

www.chateaulyonnat.com

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Château MaLartiC-Lagravière

TABLE 3

I regularly drink the wines from this fine Pessac-Léognan estate because they show wonderful depth of fruit and structure, and are reasonably priced. The reds show an intensity and class that I expect from a top wine from the appellation. It’s in the past decade that the property has hit its stride in winemaking under the helm of the Bonnie family from Belgium, and each vintage better and better wines are being made. The red is mostly merlot and cabernet sauvignon, while the white is 80% sauvignon blanc and 20% sémillon. Both red and white improve with age incredibly well.

TASTING Château Malartic-Lagravière PessacLéognan rouge 2005 A little shy still but shows very pretty dark berry and wet earth with hints of stones. Medium- to full-bodied with fine tannins and a fresh, delicately fruity finish. Drink or hold. (90 points) Château Malartic-Lagravière PessacLéognan Blanc 2010 What a wine, with wonderful intensity of lemon, limes and dried papaya. Full and layered for a white. It goes on for minutes. This estate is rocking now. (95 points) Château Malartic-Lagravière PessacLéognan rouge 2010 Impressive nose of leather, dark, polished fruit and flowers. Wonderful mouthfeel with soft, silky tannins and beautiful texture. Really well put together. Powerful and rich with loads of fruit and ripe tannins. Very ripe. Try in 2016. (95 points)

www.malartic-lagraviere.com

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Château MaLesCot saint-exuPÉry

TABLE 42

There are few winemakers in Bordeaux with a bigger heart than Jean-Luc Zuger, whose family owns the Margaux estate of Malescot Saint-Exupéry. He is a man of the earth and makes wines with profound style and character that are unique to his vineyards. The wines have such richness but at the same time harmony and depth. His 2009 was my Wine of the Year in 2012, not only for the superb quality but also for the relatively reasonable price compared to the other top wines of the vintage. The wines of Malescot have an almost Burgundian texture to them, making them true wine-drinkers’ Bordeaux.

TASTING Château Malescot saint-exupéry Margaux 2005 Aromas of blackberry, currants, dark chocolate and minerals. Full body with velvety tannins and loads of fruit. Sweet fruit and chewy tannins on the finish. Great depth. Goes on and on for minutes. (97 points) Château Malescot saint-exupéry Margaux 2009 A wine with intense spice and berry character, plus hints of sweet tobacco. It changes all the time from flowers to fruit and wet earth. Full-bodied with ripe fruit and super-fine tannins that last for minutes. It’s super-long and juicy with lovely fruit. Tight now, but juicy and gorgeous. Best ever from here. Try in 2020. (98 points)

www.malescot.com

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Château Montrose

TABLE 43

Years ago I heard a famous winemaker in Bordeaux say that a large part of the vineyards of Montrose were clearly in the same league as the nearby first growths in Pauillac such as LafiteRothschild. This thought always comes to mind when I taste the wines of Montrose, especially in recent vintages. The new ownership of this large Saint-Estèphe estate – one of the most important families in France, the Bouygues – suggests that the wines from here will only get better and better. Substantial investments are underway, including an environmentally sustainable winery with solar power. I already scored the 2009 a perfect 100 points, but past vintages are a joy to drink and always show a character of strength with refinement.

TASTING Château Montrose saint-estéphe 2008 I am impressed with the purity of fruit and ultra-fine tannins in this wine. It’s full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Sexy and refined. Ends with spices and berries. Fascinating for the vintage. Chewy. Better after 2014 but why wait? (94 points) Château Montrose saint-estéphe 2010 A perfumed, pure Montrose, with lots of currants, berries and spices that evolve to chocolate and light coffee. Full body with super-racy tannins and bright, clean finish. Very fine and structured. A balance and freshness to it, as well as beautiful form and tension. Try in 2018. (97 points)

www.chateau-montrose.com

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CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD

TABLE 17

This second wine of famous first growth Mouton-Rothschild has only been produced since 1993. It is made from grapes from a selection of the young vines of the vineyards. Only a few thousand cases are made. It has much of the same flamboyant, opulent character as the first wine but lacks the depth of structure, making it extremely attractive to drink young. The wine is made with the same dedication and precision as the grand vin. It usually has a slightly higher proportion of merlot in the blend, with the majority being cabernet sauvignon.

TASTING Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 2005 Juicy, delicious wine with plum and chocolate character. It’s full-bodied but has a round, soft texture. So delicious now – ready. (91 points) Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 2009 Aromas of smoke, bacon and ripe fruits follow through to a full body with lots of blackberries and bramble berries. Velvety tannins with lovely intensity and balance. Gorgeous wine. Second wine of Mouton-Rothschild. 63% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot and 15% cabernet franc. (94 points)

www.chateau-mouton-rothschild.com

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Château Pavie-MaCquin

TABLE 35

Located on the hillsides overlooking the town of Saint-Émilion, this wine estate led the way in the 1990s in producing more holistic and pure wines by emphasizing its unique soils and climate with organic farming methods and precise winemaking. There’s an energy and depth of character that few wines in its region can duplicate and its reds are beautiful to drink both young and old. It’s an estate that has a well-deserved serious international following from Bordeaux wine lovers with a penchant for real, handmade wines.

TASTING Château Pavie-Macquin saintÉmilion 2006 Aromas of blackberry, nutmeg and espresso. Full body with soft, round tannins. Juicy and rich. Loads of ripe fruit. Classy. Drink now or hold. (93 points) Château Pavie-Macquin saintÉmilion 2010 Gorgeous nose with great complexity. Blackberry, licorice and a steely, mineral note. Lots of chalk, nutmeg and violets, too. Dense and full-bodied on the palate with beautiful fruit and a sumptuous, fruity finish that just goes on and on. Velvety tannins and layered texture with lots of raw licorice. Drink from 2018. (95 points)

www.pavie-macquin.com

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Château PÉDesCLaux

TABLE 19

It’s hard to think of a château in Bordeaux that has so changed its quality overnight. The fifthgrowth Pauillac estate was bought in 2009 by Jacky Lorenzetti, and the wines went from the banal to the exciting in just a few vintages. They now show similar firm tannin structure and complex fruit character to many of their neighbors, including firstgrowth Lafite-Rothschild and Mouton-Rothschild. The best, however, is yet to come as Lorenzetti fine-tunes his vineyards and winery. He also owns Château Lilian Ladouys and a part of Château d’Issan; the latter is also pouring at tonight’s event.

TASTING Château Pédesclaux Pauillac 2009 Huge improvement here. This is fullbodied, with super-polished tannins and light smoky, chocolate and plum character. Long and polished. Very fine indeed. Drink after 2016. (93 points) Château Pédesclaux Pauillac 2010 Very pretty, with currants, chocolate and hints of cappuccino. Full body with velvety tannins and a long, delicious finish. This the best wine in years from here. Better in 2017. (93 points)

www.chateau-pedesclaux.com

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Château PiPeau

TABLE 45

This family-owned wine estate in Saint-Émilion has a solid following in the US market for one reason: It offers excellent-quality wines for reasonable prices. The fact that it consistently makes outstanding wines year in, year out also makes a difference. The wines are always balanced and full of character, offering enjoyment early in their evolution as well as years later in the bottle. It’s all about drinkability. The 2010 is one of the estate’s best wines ever.

TASTING Château Pipeau saint-Émilion 2010 A wine with pure fruit and hints of milk chocolate. Full body with velvety tannins and a fresh finish. Lots of fruit but shows reserve and poise at the finish. Try in 2017. (92 points) Château Pipeau saint-Émilion 2011 A wine with beautiful richness and flavor for the vintage, with dark berries, licorice and tar. Full to medium body, integrated tannins and a crisp finish. Better in 2016. (90 points)

www.chateau-pipeau.fr

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Château PrieurÉ-LiChine

TABLE 46

The wines of this Margaux estate have a special place in my heart because I spent a good amount of time at the château in the mid1980s learning how to taste wines with the late owner and author Alexis Lichine. But the wines of Prieuré-Lichine have really come into their own in the past decade through the dedication of the current owners, the Ballande Group, and the work of consulting enologist Stéphane Derenoncourt. The wines are fruit-focused with beautiful tannins and tension, giving them a lively intensity. I find them just right to drink about five to six years after the vintage but they improve for many years after. The two wines at the tasting are the best ever from here.

TASTING Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2009 Blueberries, minerals, flowers and sandalwood on the nose. Full body with chewy tannins and fresh-fruit aftertaste, including citrus. Beautiful polish to this wine. Best in 2018. (94 points) Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2010 Aromas of blueberries and blackberries with hints of sliced mushroom. Full and round with chewy tannins. Give this four or five years to soften. Tight and structured. Better in 2017. (94 points)

www.prieure-lichine.fr

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Château rauzan-sÉgLa

TABLE 14

The pedigree of Rauzan-Ségla is exceptional. I have personally drunk wines from the late 1800s that were still of phenomenal quality. In fact, the Margaux wine estate was considered at the same level as many of the first growths in the 19th century. Today, Rauzan-Ségla is again rivalling the best of Bordeaux, producing solid, finely crafted reds with wonderfully integrated fruit density and racy tannins. This is one of the most consistent-quality top producers in the Médoc at the moment. The owners of Chanel control the property, along with Saint-Émilion’s Château Canon.

TASTING Château rauzan-ségla Margaux 2001 Pleasant aromas of berries, plums and spices. Medium to full body with fine tanins. Layered but balanced with a delicious finish. (91 points) Château rauzan-ségla Margaux 2005 This is a gorgeous, fabulous wine: a very giving wine with an amazing nose of currants, strawberries and flowers. Full and powerful, with chewy and ripe tannins and a long, long finish. A serious, structured wine that still needs some time in the bottle. Pull the cork after 2016. (97 points) Château rauzan-ségla Margaux ségla 2009 Black cherry and fresh mushroom, with hints of currants and sweet tobacco. Full-bodied with chewy but polished tannins. Lovely berry and cherry. Racy and pretty. So delicious now. Second wine of Rauzan-Ségla. Try in 2016. (92 points)

www.rauzan-segla.com

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Château siran

TABLE 47

You might have read about the exceptional quality of wines from Bordeaux cru bourgeois estates, especially relative to their price – and the wines of cru bourgeois Château Siran are clearly some of the best among them. I recently participated in a blind tasting in Hong Kong of more than 50 wines from cru bourgeois estates from the 2010 and 2009 vintages, and Siran came out first. Its wines show the character and structure of many of the classified growths in the Margaux appellation, and they cost a fraction of the price. Taste the 2010 and understand Siran’s excellence in winemaking.

TASTING Château siran Margaux 2004 Pleasant aromas of blackberry, raspberry and black licorice. Medium to full body with chewy tannins and longlasting finish. Drink now. (90 points) Château siran Margaux 2010 Aromas of licorice with dark berries and blueberries. Full body with extremely integrated tannins that are polished and beautiful. The texture is just so attractive. This is a vibrant wine. Try after 2017. (94 points)

www.chateausiran.com

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Château sMith haut LaFitte

TABLE 4

I am not sure anyone two decades ago would have believed the improvement in the wines at Smith Haut Lafitte since Daniel and Florence Cathiard bought the property in 1990. The couple have spared nothing in making the Smith white and red two of the top wines of Bordeaux. The white, mostly sauvignon blanc, shows superb richness and depth of fruit but remains lively and fresh with wonderful intensity. The red, primarily cabernet sauvignon, displays extremely polished tannins and integrated fruit. It’s about harmony in both wines. They also make second wines, one being the Le Petit Haut Lafitte, which is a selection of grapes from young vines on the estate.

TASTING Château smith haut Lafitte PessacLéognan rouge 2010 Aromas of blueberries, blackberries and plums follow through to a full body, with velvety tannins and a fruity finish. Lots of mushroom and fruit undertones. Very polished. Such finesse but such structure to this young wine. (95 points) Château smith haut Lafitte PessacLéognan Blanc 2011 This is truly great Smith white, with electrifying fruit and structure. It sends shivers down my back. Complex aromas of sliced lemon, minerals, stone, candied fruit and cream. It’s full-bodied, with bright acidity and a lively finish. It goes on for minutes. A wine for the future – but who can wait? Drink or hold. (96 points)

www.smith-haut-lafitte.com

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CHÂTEAU TEYSSIER

TABLE 48

Many thought that Englishman Jonathan Maltus was half-crazy when he came to Bordeaux and began buying vineyards in the early 1990s. But today he is making impressive, world-famous wines from a range of different vineyards with unique characters and styles. His Teyssier in SaintÉmilion makes flavorful, generous wines with a beautiful depth of fruit and character. His tiny SaintÉmilion Grand Cru, Le Carré, only encompasses about four acres, and makes refined-textured reds. Maltus bought the terraced vineyard from Château Canon in 2004. Both wines are on pour tonight. Maltus is most famous for his other tiny-production rock-star wine, Le Dôme, located near the estate of Angélus. He also makes wines in Napa Valley.

TASTING Château Teyssier Saint-Émilion Le Carré 2009 Blueberries and plums with hints of sweet tobacco and orange peel follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins, a lightly toasted oak undertone and ripe fruit. Excellent wine from the same owners as Le Dôme. Try after 2016. (93 points) Château Teyssier Saint-Émilion 2010 Clear and beautiful with currant, berry and hazelnut character. Full body with integrated tannins and a fresh finish. Firm with a refined texture. Drink or hold. (92 points)

www.teyssier.fr

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Château viLLeMaurine

TABLE 49

I have known the wines of Villemaurine in Saint-Émilion since the 1980s but it wasn’t until recently that they have consistently reached outstanding quality. This is almost entirely due to Bordeaux wine merchant Justin Onclin, who bought the 17acre estate in 2007. He invested in a new winery and fine-tuned his vineyards, which are almost entirely merlot. Onclin, who is working with one of Bordeaux’s top consulting oenologists, Stéphane Derenoncourt, also owns another property in SaintÉmilion, Clos Larcis, and Branas Grand Poujeaux in Moulis. The future of fine winemaking is bright for this estate considering the quality of the young wines presented at this event.

TASTING Château villemaurine saint-Émilion 2010 A ripe, juicy wine with dried strawberry and hints of earth. Full body with velvety tannins. Delicious finish. Sweet fruit at the end. Drink or hold. (92 points) Château villemaurine saint-Émilion 2011 Wonderful aromas of crushed blackberries, red chilies and spices. Full body with round, silky tannins and a juicy, berry, mineral undertone. This is harmonious for the vintage, with a savory character. Try in 2017. (91 points)

www.villemaurine.com

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DoMaine De ChevaLier

TABLE 1

Domaine de Chevalier has a long history of producing age-worthy reds and whites. I have drunk whites from this Pessac-Léognan estate with 30 and 40 years of bottle age and they were still fabulous; reds from the 1950s and 1960s are equally excellent now. The only problem is finding them. DC is highly sought-after by wine collectors and few part with bottles, preferring to drink them themselves. Both red and white have incredible depth of fruit and unique character from the stony soil of the vineyards. Recent vintages seem to hark back to the halcyon days of great winemaking from this estate. In fact, the last eight or nine years could be the best vintages ever from here. The 2010 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge was my Wine of the Year in 2013.

TASTING Domaine de Chevalier PessacLéognan rouge 2000 This offers a complex nose of sweet tobacco and stones with red fruits such as plums, as well as a smoky note. Full and juicy, with a tobacco and berry character that turns almost tea-like on the finish. This has medium tannins, and is just starting to come around. A beauty. (93 points) Domaine de Chevalier PessacLéognan Blanc 2010 A white with a phenomenal density and richness, with crème-brûlée, apple-pie and pear-tart character. It’s so agile and balanced. Full body with tangy fruit and a long finish. Crazy intensity and style to this. Speechless. Best dry white from here. Try in 2018. (99 points) Domaine de Chevalier PessacLéognan rouge 2010 Dark fruits such as raspberries and blueberries with a subtle perfume on the nose. Full body with super-wellintegrated tannins and a fresh, clean finish. Racy young wine. Shows classy structure and richness. Try in 2018. (96 points)

www.domainedechevalier.com

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vieux Château Certan

TABLE 37

The wines of VCC are inspirational to say the least. I have had wines from the 1940s and 1950s that were some of the best bottles of my life. But it’s the newer vintages that excite me with their clarity, purity and precision. This is mostly due to the incredible talent of winemaker and co-owner Alexandre Thienpont, who I believe is one of the best winemakers in Bordeaux at the moment. Year in, year out since 1996 he has been able to make one of the wines of the vintage. It doesn’t matter if it’s a mediocre or a great year, VCC produces soulful and fascinating reds.

TASTING vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2002 Pleasant aromas of sweet plums and spices. Full body with firm tannins and lots of ripe fruit. Long-lasting finish with chewy tannins. Holding on beautifully. (92 points) vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2006 I love the texture here. This is really impressive for 2006, which is a good but not great vintage. Blackberries, dark chocolate and lightly toasted oak. Full-bodied, but holding back with great finesse and strength. Pull the cork in 2015. (94 points)

www.vieuxchateaucertan.com

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notes

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“Bringing Beauty to Wine Drinking”

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Great Wines of Bordeaux