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Unit 1

Collection

playing solo

“What I do is create a collection to question people about their values” Rei Kawakubo, i-D no104

themes from inspiration to delivery practice and research of costume design vision providing description of a collection introducing draftsw giving idea justification trend analysis — “why” interpretation. Present Simple VS Present Continious


Task name Exercise 1 Read and discuss text By Hilary Alexander, fashion director Published: 8:17PM BST 02 Jul 2008

“It’s all about construction and foundation,” he said of his designs which featured intricate “cages” which were hand-embroidered, handbeaded and knitted in every conceivable material from plastic and python-skin to crystals and cashmere. A short mini, crinoline-dress was fashioned from a “cage” of cream cashmere, knitted in a lattice pattern, and worn over a gold lamé tunic and thigh-high boots. An elaborate ballgown in black velvet and emerald taffeta was accessorized with a caged-cape, handmade from long pheasant plumes. Neon yellow and black silken ribbons, resembling the taped barriers erected around a crime scene, were woven into a birdcage effect over a long, fishtail, satin gown. The “cage” effect extended to leather harnesses over trench-coats and black velvet riding helmets. Elsewhere, the models’ hair was coiled into skyscraper-like chignons, perched as precariously as Amy Winehouse’s beehive.

glossary lattice – grid, pattern audacious – adventirous, daring thigh - hip plumes – curles, spires taped – fastened with ribbon harness – the gear of a draught animal other than a yoke perch – a roost for a bird perched – being on a perch beehive – house of bees, elevated hairstyle wind-sock – sign showing wind direction

Keynotes: Eiffel Tower inspiration behind Gaultier collection. The Eiffel Tower was one of the more extraordinary inspirations behind the haute couture collection shown in Paris by the ageless, audacious designer, Jean Paul Gaultier.

Even Gaultier’s bride appeared in a caged veil of white and silver, which resembled a wind-sock, over a skintight, beaded wedding dress. “I have no intention to seriously put women in cages. My models are birds of paradise. They can remove the cages and fly,” Gaultier said. Later, the young Italian, Alessandra Facchinetti, made her haute couture debut for the prestigious Valentino label, watched by a celebrity front row which included fellow-countryman and couturier, Giorgio Armani, making a rare appearance at a rival catwalk event.

Preview 1. What is a collection ? 2. What does it consist of ? 3. What designers/brands do you appreciate? Why? 4. Describe the collection that impressed you recently/ give your idea of collection. What are the guidelines? 5. How does your muse look/feel like? 6. Who is your ideal customer? 7. What are the means of delivering the synaesthetic feeling through a collection? (atmosphere, scent, music, taste)

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Exercise 2

Speak-up: consult the vocabulary section in the end of the book if necessary 1. Which of the following types of career making are closer to you? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each one? What gives the edge to your choice? a) b) c)

a trendy multinational brand work as an independent designer in team of a Russian couturier

Are there any other opportunities in the contemporary fashion sphere? 2. List the guidelines necessary for description of a collection. Meditate on the importance of proper casting. How can a model represent a designer’s idea? List the parametres of models which would promote certain guidelines (consult “Plastic anatomy” section in the end of the book). 3. Speak on types of the collections. Describe the collection on your choice. Use the appropriate wording: casualwear, modern, free-spirited, nonconformist, combinable, comfortable, affordable, trend-representative, apparel, diversified, citywear (dress for work and leisure simultaneously), childrenwear, sportwear, “smartwear” (mix between Casual and City), evening, gowns, lingerie, swimwear

Task name Exercise 1 Which word fills the gap best: Resemble

beehive

sartorial

apparel

overall

catch

1. The .......... impression of the show is mediocre, although some numbers were definitely worth looking at and even buying maybe. 2. After several years of the .......... opulence that led up to and followed the turn of the new millennium, fashion in 2004 shifted away from overt luxury toward more practical dressing. 3. The .......... of a hairstyle is the new bob according to the lates Vogue edition. 4. A lot of fashionistas will agree that his recent collection .......... the early Galiano creations. 5. The quality of textiles and .......... is usually governed by standards set up by the industry or the government or the two acting together, along with textile associations, testing societies, retail associations, consumer organizations, and service a sociations such as laundering and cleaning groups. 6. I travel a lot, preferring truly remote destinations, mostly to .......... a bit of ethnic inspiration to later transform it into the new design.

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Exercise 2 Read the text and match headings with the paragraphs: a) b) c) d) e)

Young russian designer as reminiscence of Raf Simons _____ Non-conventional decision of catwalk _____ Panegiric to disaffected youth subculture _____ Inspiration and casting _____ Target audience description _____

Russki Business Gosha Rubchinskiy’s Men’s Wear

When I was in Moscow last week, in between buying Obama Matryoshka dolls and avoiding calf heel on the menu, I did manage to catch a bit of fashion and culture. Of the local designers, none impressed me more than Gosha Rubchinskiy, a 24-year-old whose teenage-fixated sportswear reminded me of early Raf Simons.1 Like Simons at his pervy best, Rubchinskiy navigates the murky waters of disaffected youth — in this case, kids born after the collapse of the Soviet Union. Shown in a former church cum sports hall, as part of Cycles and Seasons (an edgier alternative to the more commercial Moscow and Russian fashion weeks), Rubchinskiy’s collection, only his second, was a panegyric to consumerist-era teenagers and their complicated religious and spiritual views. 2

glossary pervy – pervert, homosexual murky – gloomy, dark cum – combined, matched panegyric – praise Snapski! – another word for “oh my gosh!” or “cool” rumble – noise, growl stitches for extra menace – scars to look more dangerous assume a cross – legged seated position for the duration of the show – take on .... postion overall effect – general effect vigor – energy, vitality

Speaking through an interpreter — my Russian isn’t what it used to be — Rubchinskiy said his muse reads the Bible and Victor Pelevin’s novels, is into orthodoxy, runes, numerology, football, Satanism and shamanism. Snapski! And just as Rubchinskiy sometimes thinks he’s from a different planet, his rough-and-rumble idealized customer also believes that there are other life forms among us. 3 Russian psychobabble aside, the cool collection of mostly hoodies, sweatpants, T-shirts and uncomplicated sweaters was directly inspired by the style of local youth gangs, which explains Rubchinskiy’s casting of tattooed local skaters, hockey players, graffiti artists and street kids as models. Most of them were his friends; a few of them sported black eyes and stitches for extra menace. (The star of the show was 18-year-old Anton Timochkin, better known as SART, who was the last model out and runs the most popular blog for Moscow teenagers.) 4 Rather than walking a conventional runway, the barefoot models each did a lap of the site before taking a gymnastics-style run-up onto a stage, climbing onto oversize blocks and assuming a cross-legged seated position for the duration of the show. The overall effect may not have evoked the sci-fi otherworldliness of a Strugatsky brothers novel, but the youthful vigor and novel presentation seemed a million miles removed from the ordinariness of Planet Fashion.

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Present Simple and Continious Exercise 1 Language check Complete the rules below with simple or continious. The present _____ describes a) facts that will not change b) regular events and processes c) a scheduled event The present _____ describes a) things happening now b) temporary situations c) future arrangements Match the following examples with the rules a-f. 1. The first model isn’t a very innovative one. simple (a) 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Dramatical changes are taking place in structure of fashion-business. She then sells it to the buyer and moves on to a new idea. Show doesn’t start on the catwalk until tomorrow at 20 p.m. Freelance designers are conceiving new concepts (a job of work!) while mass-market demand is low. Is he meeting his distributors on Monday?

Exercise 2 Complete the text below with the appropriate form of present simple or continious Gazzarrini Fall 2009

Fall (come) _______ and Italian label Gazzarrini (have) _______ a penchant for blonds and strong suiting. Their fall range (break up) _______ the monotony of typical suiting with a new way to envision how individual pieces work together. The idea of the timeless suit is reworked with studded belts adding a playful casual quality, while gloves interject a modern quality. The inner-mixing of leather garments and knits respect the style savvy man, while bringing forth a new form of business attire. Finally, a sense of urgency is felt in the collection’s very masculine combat boots. Overall, the collection is a creative mix of quality pieces that on paper should not work together, but somehow (come together) _______ for an alluring collection of impeccable tailoring. Gazzarrini (create) _______ his winter collection at the moment based on reminiscents of Norwegian sledging. He (be) _______ already booked for several catwalk-events in northern regions of Italy.

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Note: The continious is usually not used with the following: - ownership (have, want, need, etc.) - sense (look, sound, feel, etc) - emotion / opinion (like, love, hate, think, believe, etc.) - routines (usually, always, sometimes, etc.)


HOMETASK Grammar Task 1 Give description of any collection of your choice incorporating active lexis of the unit (app. 1000 characters). Task 2 Find the equivalent to: a) b) с) d) e)

Garments made by interlacing yarn or thread in a series of connected loops (knitwear) A woman’s elegant specifically tailored formal dress (gown; ballgown) Striving for competitive advantage (rival) Darkly vague or obscure (murky) active bodily or mental strength or force (vigor)

Task 3 Give your own definition to and provide examples of the following: Total look Catwalk event Conventional clothing

Task 4 Continue the series: A collection can provoke, inspire, be based on … A designer may be innovative, creative, … The concept may be fresh, obsolete ….

Task 5 Go phrasal Match each phrasal verb with its meaning: Make up Make over Make into

to remodel to transform to form by fitting together or assembling;

Take on Take to Take after

to develop a liking for to resemble to engage; hire

Be off Be all about Be in Be into

to have the main idea of to have a special interest in to go obsolete or lose original quality to be hip

a) Provide your one examples using each of the phrasal verbs above. b) Write a short description of a collection (for example, in the form of a mag review) using all 10 phrasal verbs.

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Task 6 Which of the phrasal verbs from Task 5 is the best equivalent for the following: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

This bag is so passé, I can’t believe she’s buying it! He was so badly criticized he had to change the whole collection completely. In his early years the designer was really overwhelmed with glam-rock outlook. We decided to employ Georgio ZiGatti for the coming shoot as he’s the most promising young photographer. The main idea of the new collection is to show the beauty of chaos and asymmetry. The famous trio put the whole set together within three weeks. Baggy trousers with low waist line were very trendy last year. He is famous for extraordinary imagination; at his grad exam he presented a couple of bathrugs transformed into a cool skirt.

Dilemma & Decision Task 1 The following report is linguistically correct but eye-wateringly boring. Replace the ‘common’ words with the suggested: Final-exit, break, colourway, hot body, hauterfly, anti-fit, mixy-matchy, shootie, jaw-dropping The latest show attracted fashion-loving people from all around, and for a good reason: the new collection is really nice, though some may say it was a touch too much of mixing unmixable. Think loosely-fitting numbers, like pants too baggy, combined with repeated-from-last-collection translucent tops and ankle boots. Needless to say, colour range was as broad as the shoulders of the athletes of models cruising the catwalk for the last part of the show.

Task 2 Writing 1. Pick a collection of your choice. Write two variants of a show report for the collection: a boring one and a ‘fashion-biz’ one. Use as many professional slang words from the unit as possible. 2. Make a list of boring words from your report and their trendy equivalents. Prepare to share your list with the group. 3. Give examples of brands with universal collections that work round the world. List country/ continent influences (climate, local fashion taste). What approach can help to create a universal collection? 4. Imagine you’re creative director in Mexx/Benetton/Topshop. What points are to be incorporated in a collection to make it worldwide? (ANSWER – Mexx p.70 – дать UPSIDE DOWN) 5. List the colabs of haute couture designers with mass-market brands. Which do you consider to be the greatest success? Opinion: how could the moodboard of a designer’s collection (to the student’s choice) look like? Explain what a moodboard is. Discuss: сollection is formed of garments, sketches, moodboard... what else? Hometask: bring your moodboards and collections to present them in the class.

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Photo for Hilary Alexander, fashion director Published: 8:17PM BST 02 Jul 2008

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