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OLEON A NATURAL CHEMISTRY Personal Care

台灣總代理 : 允誠國際實業有限公 司 51061 彰化縣員林鎮崙雅巷 5-5 號 TEL:+886-4-8399799 FAX:+886-4-8399188


Presentation content

• Who is oleon? • What can we mean to you? • What can we offer? • Emulsifiers • Emollients • Pearlizing-bodying agents & stabilizers • In the picture… • Radia 7887 • Radia 7750 • Isostearic derivates 台灣總代理 : 允誠國際實業有限公


WHO IS OLEON?

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Core business of Oleon Oleon is a leading company in Europe for the production of chemicals based on Natural Oils. Oils Oleon is a subsidiary of the Sofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry. Oil cake

Biotechnologies Seeds Pesticides Other services for agriculture

Growers

Collect of oilseeds and protein rich seeds

Animal health and breeding

Breeders

Animal nutrition Crushing

Food Oils

Renewable energies

Growers and breeders Oilseeds division Food and animal sector division

Renewable chemicals

Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern

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Transformation and animal productions


International character of Oleon Oleon Sales Offices

Oleon Northern Europe

6 Plants (Ertvelde, Oelegem, Compiègne, Sandefjord, Emmerich, Port Klang)

Oleon UK

Oleon Americas

Oleon HQ Oleon GmbH Oleon France

Oleon Southern Europe

Oleon Asia Pacific 5

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Values of Oleon

Innovation driven

Technical involvement

Environmental concern

Quality focus 台灣總代理 : 允誠國際實業有限公


Oleon is an RSPO member RSPO Oleon is member since 2007

Promoting the Growth And Use of Sustainable Palm Oil

Oleon respects RSPO principle & criteria

Among its principles …Respect for rights of land owners, farmworkers, smallholders and their families. …No primary forests or high conservation value areas sacrificed for new palm oil plantations

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WHAT CAN WE MEAN TO YOU?

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From nature to oleochemistry

Physical extraction

Containing

Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…

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From oleochemistry to consumer product

Hydrolyses Glycerol

Fatty acid

Esterification

Alcohol building block

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Fatty acid

Ester


A glance into the Radia building blocks Alcohol-function - OH

INCI

Polyglycerol Sorbitan + polyethyleneglycol

Sorbitan Isoamyl Isopropyl

Pentaerythrityl

Propylene glycol

Glycerol

Fatty acid – function -COOH

+

C8/C10 Lauric acid Myristic acid Palmitic acid Stearic acid Oleic acid Isostearic acid

=

Polyglyceryl-3 stearate Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 60 Polysorbate 80 Sorbitan Laurate Sorbitan Stearate Sorbitan Oleate Sorbitan trioleate Sorbitan isostearate Isoamyl laurate Isopropyl myristate Isopropyl palmitate Isopropyl isostearate Pentaerythrithyl tetra caprylate/tetracaprate Pentaerythrithyl stearate Pentaerythrithyl tetrastearate Pentaerythrithyl tetraisostearate Propylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate Propylene glycol stearate caprylic/capric triglyceride Glyceryl laurate (90%) Glyceryl stearate Glyceryl oleate

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WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Characteristics Radia portfolio Eye catchers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

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Characteristics: What is an emulsion?

O/W Oil H2O

What is it? An emulsion is a mixture of two or more liquids that are normally immiscible (un-blendable). In an emulsion, one liquid (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other (the continuous phase).

Stability? Common emulsions are unstable and, thus, do not form spontaneously. Energy input (through shaking) is needed to form an emulsion. Over time, emulsions tend to revert to the stable state of the phases comprising the emulsion e.g. Vinaigrette, which seperates unless continuously shaking.

Long term stability can be obtained by adding an emulsifier (also known as an emulgent). It is a substance that stabilizes an emulsion by increasing its kinetic stability.

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Characteristics: How does an emulsifier functions?

Hydrophylic part An emulsifier consists of a -water-loving hydrophilic head -oil-loving hydrophobic tail

FA function

Lipophylic part The hydrophilic head is directed to the aqueous phase and the hydrophobic tail to the oil phase.

Its stabilizes the droplets into the continuous phase by forming a shield between the two liquids.

Oil droplet

Oil droplets incorporated by the lipophylic part of emulsifier molecules

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Characteristics: HLB-scale of William C. Griffin

• • • •

Hydrophylic part

Stands for: Established for: Formula: Purpose:

Hydrophilic/lipophilic Balance Non-ionic emulsifiers HLB = 20* [MW hydrophilic part/MW total molecule] Scale to performance of the emulsifier High HLB = hydophylic type Low HLB = lipophylic type

High HLB

Hydrophylic part

Low HLB FA function

FA function

Lipophilic part High HLB Water soluble Oil in Water emulsion

Lipophylic part Low HLB Oil (Fat) soluble Water in oil emulsion

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Characteristics: HLB versus performance

HLB 1 2 3

Characteristics

O/W emulsifier

Mixing unlike oils together

Radiasurf 7755

4

Making W/O emulsions 5

Radiasurf 7443 Radiasurf 7402 Radiasurf 7125

7

• Making self-emulsifying oils • Wetting Powders

Radiamuls 2248 Radiasurf 7447 Radiasurf 7444 Radiasurf 7454

9 10

Making O/W emulsions using surfactant blends

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Radiamuls 2253 Radiasurf 7758 Radiamuls 2155 Radiasurf 7145 Radiasurf 7141

6

8

Radia

•Making detergent solutions (HLB 13-15) •Solubilizing oils (micro-emulsifying) into water (10-18)

Radiasurf 7473 Radiasurf 7403 Radiasurf 7423 Radiasurf 7404 Radiamuls 2157 Radiasurf 7147 Radiasurf 7417 Radiasurf 7137

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O/W vs. W/O - emulsions

O/W

W/O

Have a refreshing & light skin feel Show a good skin spreadability Have an active hydratation by the external water phase Pigment carrier for make-up Active ingredient soluble in H2O-fase

Skin protection Long lasting moisturisation Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients Reduced preservative concentration

Wet day cream Skin cream Application on hairy skin Easy wash off

Sun Screen milks, lotions and creams Night creams Creams & lotions for dry and sensitive skin Skin protective baby creams Massage milks

High HLB (8-20)

Low HLB (1-8)

PEG ester Polysorbate

Sorbitan ester Polyglyceryl-ester

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Portfolio: Radia emulsifiers

Ester group

PEG ester

PG ester

Polysorbate

Sorbitan ester

Alcohol-function - OH

Fatty acid – function -COOH

INCI

Radia

Oleic acid

PEG-10 oleate

Radiasurf 7403

Lauric acid

PEG-10 laurate

Radiasurf 7423

Stearic acid

PEG-15 distearate

Radiasurf 7454

Stearic acid

PEG-10 stearate

Radiasurf 7473

Stearic acid

Polyglyceryl-3 stearate

Radiamuls 2248K

ricinoleic acid

Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate

Radiamuls 2253K

Lauric acid

Polysorbate 20

Radiamuls 2137K

Stearic acid

Polysorbate 60

Radiamuls 2147K

Oleic acid

Polysorbate 80

Radiamuls 2157K

Lauric acid

Sorbitan Laurate

Radiamuls 2125K

Stearic acid

Sorbitan Laurate

Radiamuls 2145K

Oleic acid

Sorbitan Oleate

Radiamuls 2156K

Oleic acid

Sorbitan trioleate

Radiasurf 7755

Isostearic acid

Sorbitan isostearate

Radiamuls 7758

Polyethylene glycol

Polyglycerol

Sorbitan + polyethyleneglycol

Sorbitan

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Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7908

+ Chemsketch

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Eye catcher: the identity of Radiamuls 2932

+ Chemsketch

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Eye Catcher: the identity of Radiamuls 2990

+ Chemsketch Radiamuls 2990 INCI: HLB: Performance:

SODIUM STEAROYL LACTYLATE 16 Anionic emulsifier solid O/W emulsifier Multifunctional

Sensorial:

Skin conditioning & moisturizing Light emulsions rich in water

Speciality:

White fluffy powder PEG free Acts as foam booster in cleansing formulations

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WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Characteristics Radia portfolio Eye catchers Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

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Characteristics: An emollient and its sensorial aspect

… softens and smoothes the skin … results in elastic and lubricated skin

An emollient can be characterised by sensorial terminology: Spreading Absorption Greasiness Stickiness Softness Smoothness

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Characteristics: An emollient and its chemistry

An emollient can be characterised by physico-chemical terminology Low viscosity

 Viscosity = light feel & good spread

Branched structure

 Liquid means easy to handle = Cold processing  Light feel

Saturated structure

 Chemical stability  No off odour, no off colour

Low molecular weight

 light & dry feel  quick absorption

High polarity (Harkin)

 Good spread

Low contact angle

 Wetting capacity

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Characteristics: Harkin’s Rule

The spreadingscoëfficient S allows to scale the emollient based on oil polarity. HARKINS RULE:

S= σH2O-σOil-ϒO/W

S = Spreadingscoëfficient σH2O = Surface tension Water/air σOil = Surface tension Oil/air ϒO/W = Interfacial tension Oil/Water = polarity index

Surface tension is a property of the surface of a liquid that allows it to resist an external force Spreadingscoëff. S= σH2O-σOil-ϒO/W

Polarity ranking

Examples

41-50

Polar

Cyclomethicone Wheat germ oil Isostearylneopentanoate

Medium Polar

Decyl Oleate Caprilic/capric Triglyceride Isopropyl myristate

Non-polar

Paraffin Squalene

31-40 21-30 11-20 0-10

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Tensiometer principle


Characteristics: Harkin’s Rule

A combination of high Spreadingscoëfficient S and a low viscosity results in cosmetic emulsion with light skin feeling.

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Portfolio: Radia emollients

Ester group

Alcohol-function - OH

Fatty acid – function -COOH C8/C10

Triglyceride

Glycerol

C7 Oleic acid Isostearic acid Palmitic acid

EH ester

Ethylhexyl

Stearic acid Cocoate

IA ester

Isoamyl

IP ester

Isopropyl

PET ester

Lauric acid

Butyl ester Decyl ester

Butyl Decyl

caprylic/capric triglyceride

Radia 7101 Radia 7104

Triheptanoin Radiamuls 2375 Triolein Radia 7363 Triisostearin Radia7373 Ethylhexyl Radia 7779 palmitate Ehylhexyl stearic Radia 7772 acid Ethylhexyl cocoate Radia 7722 Isoamyl laurate Radia 7750 Isopropyl myristate

Radia 7730

Palmitic acid

Isopropyl palmitate

Radia 7732

C8/C10

Pentaerythrithyl tetra caprylate/tetracapr ate Pentaerythrithyl tetraisostearate

Isostearic acid

PG ester

Radia

Myristic acid

Pentaerythrityl

Propylene glycol

INCI

C8/C10 Stearic acid Oleic acid

Propylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate Butyl stearate Decyl oleate

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Radia 7178 Radia 7181 Radia 7208 Radia 7752 Radia 7336


Eye Catcher: the identity of Radia 7373

Radia 7373 INCI:

TRIISOSTEARIN

Performance:

Dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigments Solvating functionality Modifies melting points

Sensorial:

Long lasting spreadability (no migration) when combined with ligh emollient

Speciality:

‘Natural oil – like’ with enhanced emulsuification properties

Applications:

Lipsticks (long lasting) Colour cosmetics

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Eye Catcher: the identity of Radia 7181

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Eye Catcher: the identity of Radia 7380

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Eye Catcher: the identity of Radia 7739

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Eye Catcher: the identity of Radia 7687

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WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents Characteristics Portfolio In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

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Characteristics

• Stabilizers: – Increase product stability and prevent coalescence – Acts as a surfactant

• Pearlescent – bodying agents: – Providing texture and smooth appearance – May also act as emulsifier and/or emollient

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Portfolio: stabilizers

Ester group

Glyceryl ester

Alcohol-function - OH

Glycerol

Fatty acid – function -COOH

INCI

Radia

Hydroxystearic acid

Glyceryl hydroxystearate

Radiasurf 7146

Lauric acid

Glyceryl laurate (90%)

Radiasurf 7908

Oleic acid

Glyceryl oleate (40%)

Radiasurf 7151

Oleic acid

Glyceryl oleate (90%)

Radiamuls 2905K

Stearic acid

Glyceryl stearate (40%, EP type I)

Radiasurf 7143

Stearic acid

Glyceryl stearate (40%, EP type II)

Radiasurf 7343

Stearic acid

Glyceryl stearate (60%)

Radiasurf 7142 Radiamuls 2643

Stearic acid

Glyceryl stearate (90%)

Radiamuls 2910K

Stearic acid

Glyceryl stearate (SE)

Radiasurf 7141

Stearic acid + citrate

Glyceryl stearate citrate

Radiamuls 2931 Radiamuls 2932

Stearic acid + lactate

Glyceryl stearate lactate

Radiamuls 2950

PEG ester

Polyethylene glycol

Glyceryl cocoate

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate

Radiasurf 7318

PET ester

Pentaerythrityl

Stearic acid

Pentaerythrityl stearate

Radiasurf 7174

Glycol ester

Glycol

Stearic acid

Glycol distearate

Radia 7268

Glycol stearate

Radia 7270

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Portfolio: pearlescent – bodying agents

Ester group

Alcohol-function - OH

Fatty acid – function -COOH

INCI

Radia

Triglyceride

Glycerol

Behenic acid

Tribehenin

Radia 7515

EG ester

Ethylene glycol

Stearic acid

Glycol distearate

Radia 7270

Isostearic acid

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate

Radia 7181

Stearic acid

Pentaerythrityl tetrastearate

Radia 7176

Propylene glycol

Stearic acid

Propylene Glycol monostearate

Radiasurf 7201

Cetyl

Palmic acid

Cetyl Palmitate

Radia 7500

Stearyl

Stearate

Stearyl stearate

Radia 7501

Glycol distearate

Radia 7268

Glycol stearate

Radia 7270

PET ester

PG ester

Pentaerythrityl

Others

Glycol ester

Glycol

Stearic acid

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WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

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Radia 7887: W/O emulsion

How commercial is a W/O-emulsion? Applications: Sun Screen milks Skin protective baby creams Massage milks Lotions and creams For dry and sensitive skin Hand & feet care Night creams Properties: Skin protection Long lasting moisturization Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients Reduced preservative concentration

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Radia 7887: cold process

How do you benefit of a cold process method? COLD PROCESSING equals cost reduction by means of

T

1

2

3

(°C)

Hot Process

+/- 80

…time

4

5

Homogenize

No heating time

20

No cooling time Time

…energy No need for melting

T (°C)

Cold Process 1

…amount No additional co-emulsifier Low concentration

2

3

5 4

20

Homogenize

Time

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The identity of Radia 7887

+ Chemsketch

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Radia 7887: its building blocks

+ Chemsketch POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE & SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE

Glycerol

Ricinoleate

Sorbitol

Saponification of a vegetable oil

Extraction & destillation

Hydrogenation & filtration

Rapeseed oil

Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae)

Wheat/Maize

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Isostearate Saponification, neutralization & destillation Rapeseed oil


Radia 7887: viscosity

How to reach consistency with only liquid ingredients? • Increase of water phase %

• Using emollients with higher viscosity

Results in a rich, consistent and stable cream

• Homogenization (shearing force)

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Radia 7887: stability Stability testing parameters?

Test formulation W/O

Evaluation methods

Oil phase Oil 10 %, 18% or 30% Emulsifier 1% or 3.5%

1) Centrifuge stability (3x15min @ 4000rpm)

Water phase Glycerol MgSO4.7H2O Preservative Water Low external phase = 10% High external phase = 30% Low surfactant = 1% High surfactant = 3.5%

4% 0,7% q.s. to 100%

2) Temperature stability 1 week @ 50°C 2 months@ 40°C 3 months@ RT 3) Viscosity stability ( mPas) Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindle After 1 day After 3 months 4) Appearance Visual aspect

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Radia 7887: stability

What about stability performance? • A low emulsifier (1%) emulsion showed to be stable with …MCT …paraffin oils up to 18% • A high emulsifier (3,5%) emulsion showed to be stable with …MCT …sunflower oil …paraffin oils • A remarkable synergy and high viscosity is observed using sunflower oil which benefits your green formulation. • R7887 emulsions show stability with internal phases up to 82%!

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Radia 7887: formulations

Low Cost W/O protective cream

HP11-22-2

•Phase

•Ingredient

•INCI

•A

•Radia 7887

•Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate

•3.6

•Radia 7373

•Triisostearin

•0.5

•Radia 7363

•Triolein (= Sunflower oil)

•18

•Glycerin 4810

•Glycerin

•water

•Aqua

•B

•C

•% w/w

•4 •To 100

•Mg.SO4.7H2O

•0.8

•preservative

•0.7

Viscosity : 121000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.) Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading

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Radia 7887: formulations

W/O soft body cream/Lotion

HP03-54-3

•Phase

•Ingredient

•INCI

•A

•Radia 7887

•Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate

•4

•Radia 7208

•Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

•2

•Radia 7732

•Isopropyl Palmitate

•B

•C

•% w/w

•11

•Sweet almond oil

•2

•Avocado oil

•2

•Glycerin 4810

•Glycerin

•water

•Aqua

•3 •To 100

•Mg.SO4.7H2O

•0.5

•preservative

•0.7

•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.) •Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

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Radia 7887: formulations

Low Cost Protective baby cream •Phase

•Ingredient

•INCI

•A

•Radia 7887

•Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate

HP11-12-1

•Paraffin Oil

•B

•C

•% w/w

•3,6 •15

•Radia 7373

•Triisostearin

•0,5

•Radia 7500

•Cetyl Palmitate

•2

•Glycerin 4810

•Glycerin

•3

•water

•Aqua

•To 100

•Mg.SO4.7H2O

•0.5

•preservative

•0.7

•ZnO

•10

•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.) •Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

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WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

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The identity of Radia 7750

+ Chemsketch

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Radia 7750: a green chemical

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Radia 7750: wetting properties

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Radia 7750: practical use

Usage level Often used as primary oil : 480%. Higher usage levels 30-80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils. O/W and W/O emulsion creams: 5-20%. Wet wipes O/W: 0.5-2 % Natural hair care: 1-5%

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Radia 7750: spreading behaviour

High spreadabilty translated in Physico chemical chracteristics •Low viscosity •High Spreadingscoëfficient • Low surface tension • Low interfacial tension •Low contact angle

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WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

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Isostearic derivates: Characteristics

Isostearic derivates are saturated: Chemical stability No need for antioxidant

Isostearic derivates are branched: Excellent emolliency Non-greasy afterfeel Highly substantive lipid film Soft skinfeel Glossy appearance

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+ Chemsketch


Isostearic derivates: Characteristics

Isostearic derivates have a low melting point (vs straight-chain analogues): No crystallization Isostearic derivatives can replace oleic derivatives Isostearic derivates are liquid: Cold emulsion method Practicial use A solution for heat sensitive products A solution for challenging formulations

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Isostearic derivates: Portfolio

INCI

Radia

Isostearic Acid

Radiacid 907/908/909

Neopentylglycol Diisostearate

Radia 7687

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Radia 7179/7181

Triisostearin

Radia 7373

Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate

Radia 7384/7380

Isopropyl Isostearate

Radia 7739

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Eye Catcher: the identity of Radia 7739

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Eye Catcher: the identity of Radia 7384

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Eye Catcher: the identity of Radia 7687

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Oleon Head Office Assenedestraat 2 9940 Ertvelde - Belgium T: +32 (0)9 341 10 11 F: +32 (0)9 341 10 00 E: info@oleon.com

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