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New Restaurant
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THE GOLDEN ORYX Al Burj St., Ruwi, across from the Muscat Bakery Markets Opening hours: 12 noon till 3:00 p.m. & 7:00 p.m. till 12 midnight (Sun-Thurs) 1:00 p.m. till 3:30 p.m. & 7:00 p.m. till 12 midnight (Friday) Contact: (+968) 2470-6128 Lunch for two: RO24
Verdict : 7/10 SERVICE 7/10 FOOD 8/10 AMBIENCE
Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on Chinese, Thai, and Mongolian barbecue at a reasonable price point and an ambience ideal for families and large groups
THE GOLDEN ORYX TEAM Y HAS HIGH HOPES FOR A LONG-TIME RUWI STAPLE THAT’S BEEN SATISFYING THE SULTANATE’S CRAVING FOR AUTHENTIC PAN-ASIAN CUISINE FOR THREE DECADES
Y Magazine reviews anonymously and pays for its meals
Oryx noodles, and a platter of garlic fried rice at our waiter’s recommendation. The dishes arrive with their own warming hotplate to go with it and we happily tuck in. The ginger fried rice is fluffy and satisfying, the n the case of The Golden Oryx it was an burnished slivers of golden garlic adding depth instance of reputation preceding it – which, of flavour to the other dishes, when mixed. The as any foodie can attest, sets the bar rather signature Hong Kong chicken reminds us of a high. We’d heard friends from all corners of the Chinese version of Thai cashew chicken with capital speak of the restaurant with the same sautéed onions and cashews, and lightly breaded ‘must-try’ tone of fervor – insistent and cajoling. cubes of chicken all doused in their signature fiery A Ruwi institution for the last 30 years, its sauce. While filling, our palate longs for a kick of longevity is a promising sign that its stalwart sweetness to balance out the heat – but perhaps status has, indeed, been earned. To stand the we’re simply too accustomed to the saccharine, test of time in an ever-fluctuating foodie market cherry-red syrup of those sweet-and-sour chicken is no small feat. And with this in mind, so it balls served everywhere in Chinese take-aways was that we found ourselves passing through its throughout North America. Their menu is vast, but we opt to stick to the golden gates and temple-like door one Friday But the star of the spread were the absolutely Chinese side of it, going for an array of dishes afternoon for an early lunch. moreish Golden Oryx noodles. Fresh from the wok, they’re best known for. We begin with starters of The restaurant interior is vast – with a bank lusciously stir-fried hakka noodles were tossed with of windows stretching down the city block. But their hot and sour soup, and a portion of their fresh veg, well-seasoned morsels of chicken, and it’s also a cavernous space, adorned in the usual vegetable spring rolls. While the restaurant is extremely quiet – with just plump prawns – and every bite elicited a delicious chinoiserie and deep, rich mahogany wood tones smoky sweetness. Piping-hot and made fresh-toone other table seated next to us, arriving shortly with Asian-inspired lanterns hanging from the order, we fill our plates and take the leftovers home. ceiling. We imagine that during the evening the after us, the service seems a wee bit askew. While Overall, our experience at The Golden Oryx we wait an inordinately long time for our starters restaurant would be a cozy spot indeed, with and soft drinks to arrive, the table next to us receives was mixed, but because you can never truly judge its claret-red upholstered chairs and banquette a restaurant on one visit alone – especially not with both their soup course and mains before us. We seating. a menu as expansive as theirs, we would definitely We’ve arrived just as they’ve opened for their chalk it up to our dishes being prepared fresh – come back to explore what else they have to offer. which is a good thing – and hunker down. lunch service and there’s just one other table The tables around us seemed to be enjoying their The soup course arrives first and we tuck in. dining in as we’re seated in a lush banquette While tasty, with a deep meaty broth base, a hot and meals to the fullest and the service, while a bit slow, table towards the back of the restaurant – was friendly and courteous which was a definite though two more dining parties come in shortly sour soup it’s not. It’s consistency overly glutinous plus point. We’re not ready to write off this Ruwi and without a hint of its namesake sour pungency, after. favourite just yet. We’ll be back – and bringing our the soup lacks in seasoning and flavour. There are With an array of what we’re describing appetites with us once more. ■ no delicate wisps of egg that give it its essential (although rather broadly) as pan-Asian cuisine, appearance and, rather than using fresh or dried The Golden Oryx’s specialties run the gamut Do you have a favourite restaurant that you’d like to see shiitake or wood ear mushrooms as is its authentic from its signature Chinese dishes, to Thai reviewed? Let Y know at editor@y-oman.com. preparation, the mushrooms at the bottom of our options, and even Mongolian barbecue. bowls clearly came from a can. For our dining companion, it’s a bowl to their liking – and we happily offer to share ours. ‘Different strokes’, as the saying goes. The vegetable spring rolls also leave us wanting more; dense and rather dry, they come stuffed with an unseasoned mélange of shredded veg that isn’t helped much by the side accompaniments of a garlic dipping sauce and a sweet chili sauce. Hoping our main courses deliver the flavour punch we seek, we order a portion of their Szechuan ginger beef, their signature Hong Kong chicken, a portion of their house specialty Golden
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NOV 07 - 13 / ISSUE 592