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beauty JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2020

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beauty JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2020

FIND YOUR PRETTIEST LOOK INSIDE!

www.beautyfashionworld.in

& FASHION WORLD editorial!

The Future of Beauty! Not so long ago, the gold standard for beauty brands was to deliver a great product. But in 2020, brands will be expected to go much further, to stand for something way beyond their products. Beauty brands must prove that there is a reason for their existence, one that contributes in some way positively to the environment, to society, to supporting individual expression. They must go beyond zero impact, to having a positive impact on all of the above, ideally – and in beauty, this is the new gold standard. “Beauty brands have an increased responsibility when it comes to sustainability as the industry continues to be spotlighted for its environmental impact and waste,” Gabriella Beckwith, Senior Research Analyst at Euromonitor International, tells Cosmetics Business. “The main challenge will be how brands can innovate sustainably and develop alternative ‘greener’ packaging, and also encourage consumers to make ethical purchasing decisions. "Moreover, while steps to improve environmental footprint are progressing at a rapid pace, the challenge pervades that these initiatives do not erase the existing damage.” Finding ways to positively impact the environment becomes the next step; while brands must also ensure that they are honest about their progress – or lack of – thereby avoiding conveying the false impression that they are more sustainable than they are. As we enter 2020, the start of a new decade, the beauty industry must prepare to take on its biggest role yet. The expectations on brands across all sectors are growing greater, but within beauty, consumers have raised the bar for everything from efficacy to ethics, and in the year ahead, their demands will evolve even further. “In 2020, the beauty industry will be defined by its contributions to society, whether through actions to help the environment or messages of empowerment". 2019 has seen a rising number of brands that prioritise purpose and ethos to resonate with an increasingly ethically-driven consumer base. Emily Safian-Demers, Trends Analyst at Wunderman Thompson Intelligence, says: “Consumers are increasingly seeking out brands whose values align with their own. "And, with 90% of consumers believing that companies and brands have a responsibility to take care of the planet and its people

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Founder Editor-in-Chief Late Mr. Kanwar NS Editors Amrita Kanwar Sarvjit Singh China Correspondent & Reporters Ying Wei-Beijing Bao Tian Tian - Shanghai Xing Guang Li - Guangzhou Assistant Editor/Correspondent Elena Secretary & Legal Advisor Aaron Kumar Circulation Surekha Gogna Production, Design & Degital Media Rakesh Sharma Marketing & Sales Lina Catherine Amy Lan Anna Mi Technical Advisors Alex Van Bienen/Lily - Nederlands Public Relations Director (UK) Mike Steele Advisor Internet Richmond Kanwar International Advisor (Australia) Andrew S. McCourt Germany Representatives Julia Rittershofer Steffen Schnaderbeck India (Head Office) D 182 Fashion House, Anand Vihar, New Delhi 110 092 INDIA Tel: +91 11 22141542 | 4309 4482 Fax: +91 11 22160635 info@beautyfashionworld.in www.beautyfashionworld.in


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The Vantage advantage on naturals and sustainable technologies By Andy Harris, CEO, Vantage Speciality Chemicals

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aturals are a huge trend in the cosmetics and personal care industries, driven by consumer demand for greater visibility of the ingredients and provenance of the products they use. in-cosmetics Global 2019 shone a light on this key consideration at its best-ever attended show in Paris in April, which welcomed more than 12,000 visitors. Among its 843 exhibitors was Vantage Speciality Chemicals, a leading provider of naturally-derived ingredients, which has just appointed new CEO Andy Harris. We caught up with Andy for his take on the naturals market, its future, and how Vantage fits in. “The backbone and strategy of Vantage is naturally-derived ingredients,” said Harris. “Our ethos is ‘making life better through natural chemistry’. Sustainability is important, and equally key for us. We are working to develop and acquire technologies that meet these needs.” Vantage Speciality Chemicals has recently acquired Spanish company Textron, which specialises in natural oils; Leuna, a German company that works in the surfactants space; and US company Amarna, which works in food-related water-release agents. The recent M&A activity is part of a

pipeline of growth in both the personal care and food industries, complemented by equal organic growth, as it looks to expand its global footprint. Harris continued: “We are looking to share our technology across these industries and bring our expertise and innovation to broaden and complete our portfolio. The trend for ‘natural’ is big and across the board.” The synergies between the cosmetics and food industries are becoming ever more apparent as brands in both markets play up to naturally-derived, known provenance stories to fit in with consumer demand. Likewise, superfoods, such as berries and algae, are making their way into both spaces, lauded for the natural nutritional benefits they bring – both when ingested and when topically applied. Sustainability is also high on the

12 | January-February 2020 | BFW

consumer agenda and cosmetics and personal care companies are exploring technologies that reduce the water used in – or in the application of – products. Harris discussed the rise of materials that are water active when they come into contact with skin – a key element that drove the acquisition of Amarna – whereas, elsewhere at in-cosmetics, discussion around the evolution of dry conditioners posed the possibility of eliminating the need for a wash-in and rinse-out conditioner, thereby also reducing the volume of water used. The knock-on benefit of this type of innovation is a reduction in the packaging necessary to house the products, thereby also reducing packaging waste and harmful environmental impacts related to its disposal. Vantage currently holds a silver rating on the ECOVADIS scale and is actively working towards gold level. As part of its expansion plan, it is looking at manufacturing options in Asia, India and Latin America, having current representation in North America and Europe, with the personal care market remaining at its core.


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lobal premium beauty and personal care is projected to show faster compound annual growth (CAGR) compared to mass beauty and personal care. Premium beauty and personal care can expect a 4% CAGR during 2018-2023, while mass lies below 2%. Premium, these days, is not all about pricing or exclusive retailing. Consumers are looking at the ‘premium’ segment in a more complicated way. Consumers want something that can simplify their lives and help build a better version of themselves. Furthermore, in relation to their personal traits and values, a personalised product and conducting thoughtful consumption is

valued. With this value, the meaning of ‘beauty’ is no longer limited to external aspects. Embracing beauty in its natural form is becoming an important factor to follow within consumers’ beauty routines. With such a global mindset among consumers, smaller players are elevating their position in the beauty industry by offering uniquely placed products and experiences. These small brands are referred to as indie brands, start-up brands, or emerging brands. Euromonitor have gathered recognisable indie brands from around the globe and there is a clear connection within each region. Digging deeper into consumer trends, Euromonitor has discovered

the top 10 global consumer trends in 2019, looking at how consumer behaviour is evolving. Consumer research is fundamental when approaching a new market or developing an existing one with a new strategy. These key trends are: Age Agnostic Back to Basics for Status Conscious Consumer Digitally Together Everyone’s an Expert Finding my JOMO (Joy of Missing Out) I Can Look After Myself I Want a Plastic Free World I Want It Now! Loner Living

Some are very closely linked with beauty industry and this should be the starting point when studying consumers around the world. Lisa Hong, Senior Research AnalystEuromonitor International Korea will lead a session at in-cosmetics Korea on ‘Premium beauty prospect with global consumer trends’ on Thursday 27 June 2019 at 14:00 in the Marketing Trends & Regulations Theatre. The session will provide an industry snapshot of premium beauty and personal care, both with global and regional perspectives, to find out how it relates with global consumer trends and review interesting indie/emerging brands that could relate to the trend. BFW | January-February 2020 | 15


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Dermocosmetics the ‘next big thing’ in skincare Globally, the skincare market recorded a 7.44% growth from 2017-18, while haircare registered 4.61% in the same period. The fastest growing skincare subcategory was facial masks, with 14.36% growth from 2017-18, while conditioners and treatments led the haircare category with 5.64% growth in the same period. The new report suggests that consumer focus has shifted from the basic concept of skin beauty towards a wider idea of skin health over external appearance. This is largely down to the growth in popularity of the healthy living trend, which consumers are increasingly seeking to replicate in their skincare routines.

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revention over cure’ is the buzz phrase currently doing the rounds in the beauty industry. According to a new report – published today by Euromonitor International and in-cosmetics Global – the use of ‘dermocosmetics’ skincare products, which go beyond protection and into the realms of prevention, is on the rise. According to the report, entitled Skin Health: The Evolving Landscape of Dermocosmetics, 25% of consumers listed ‘sun protection functionality’ as a reason for purchasing their facial moisturiser in 2017, up from 23% in 2015, while almost 15% of millennials purchase skincare to prevent signs of ageing[1]. Other popular skincare benefits listed in the report include moisturising/hydrating properties, cited by almost 60% of consumers; suitable for sensitive skin; and contains added vitamins and improves texture/evens skin tone, to name a few.

Originally positioned as follow-up products for use after dermatological procedures, dermocosmetics have evolved as both a substitute and a complement to medical recommendation. As awareness of the long-term damage caused by external agents – such as the sun, pollution and antibacterial products for example – grows, consumer demand for products that can guard against this damage is growing rapidly. Not only must they be effective in living up to their claims, but they must also support the long-term health of the skin by addressing these external threats. The report also highlighted an increased demand for skincare products suitable for sensitive skin. Awareness of – and a growing preoccupation with – skin sensitivity is a key growth opportunity for dermocosmetics, which tend to be segmented by skin type or condition. While skin sensitivity is not new per se, products that claim to alleviate certain conditions, such as rosacea, are becoming more

18 | January-February 2020 | BFW

specific. Across all countries, instances of other epidemiological skin conditions, such as psoriasis and dermatitis, are also on the increase. This means it is expected that successful dermocosmetics will address the rise of these disorders by adding preventative elements to their formulations as consumers will be looking for products to help

prevent occurrences or reoccurrences. As with skincare, the report reveals that haircare product selection is closely tied to healthrelated issues. Over 20% of consumers purchase haircare products to address their concerns, indicating the key benefits they seek to improve their hair health, while 35% of consumers are primarily


motivated to buy haircare products to improve the look or feel of their hair. Other top sought-after benefits include damage repair, hydrating / moisturising, scalp health, anti-dandruff and hair loss prevention. According to the report, there is huge potential for the dermocosmetics category to both grow and spread into new markets, driven by consumer demand and external factors, as Keena Roberts, Senior Consumer Health Analyst from Euromonitor International explains: “External agents that cause skin damage like pollution are likely to increase in prevalence and intensity over the coming years. Correspondingly, dermocosmetic products that purport to prevent this damage will likewise continue to grow in popularity as consumer preferences continue to shift towards healthy living and long-term skincare.” There are also a number of other key factors set to boost demand for dermocosmetics; increasing consumer awareness of ingredients, thanks to a heightened focus on innovation surrounding the skin microbiome; the recognition that these brands seek to give consumers access to expertise at more affordable prices than the doctor; better education around the importance of more sophisticated daily skincare routines to prevent skin

damage; and improved awareness around the belief that beauty starts with good healthy skin, rather than colour cosmetics to hide bad skin. Roziani Zulkifli, exhibition manager for in-cosmetics Global, concluded: “Today’s consumers are particularly well informed when it comes to health and wellbeing. They know that living a balanced lifestyle is not just about adhering to a set of behaviours, and are demanding products that fit into their view of what healthy really means.” “At in-cosmetics Global, we are seeing a clear response to this trend from the skincare industry, with companies creating products focused on specific – rather than vague – skin health concerns and expect that this will continue at this year’s exhibition and beyond.”

BFW | January-February 2020 | 19


TERM 'ANTI-AGEING' SHOULD BE BANNED FROM BEAUTY AND COSMETICS INDUSTRY, REPORT SAYS

A

report published has called for the term “anti-ageing” to be banned across the beauty and cosmetics industry.

reads. “Chief among these is the persistent use of the term ‘antiageing' within the cosmetics and beauty industry.”

The statement, which has been released by the Royal Society for Public Health in partnership with the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, states that the frequent use of the phrase paints the “ageing process” in a negative light, as it insinuates that growing older is something to be ashamed of.

It also stressed the fact that women often feel more pressurised to reduce visible signs of ageing than men, which ultimately influences the way women look after their overall wellbeing.

According to research conducted by the RSPH, almost half of women and a quarter of men feel an immense pressure to maintain a youthful appearance. “We have seen just how valuable a positive and optimistic outlook on ageing can be to personal health and wellbeing, and yet many everyday conversations, informed by the media, are rife with examples of language that either trivialise, vilify, or catastrophise the ageing process,” the report

Shirley Cramer CBA, chief executive of the RSPH, spoke about the detrimental impact that ageist views can have on society as a whole, such as the frequent use of the term “anti-ageing” on cosmetic products. “Too often ageist behaviour and language is trivialised, overlooked, or even served up as the punchline to a joke - something we would rightly not tolerate with other forms of prejudice,” she said. “Our report shows that ageist attitudes abound in society and have a major impact on the public’s

20 | January-February 2020 | BFW

health, and yet they are rarely treated with the seriousness they deserve.” The RSPH called out specific companies to remove the term of “anti-ageing” from their lexicon, requesting that Boots and Superdrug follow in the footsteps of Allure magazine by doing so. The report described the implication that people should try to reverse visible signs of aging as “nonsensical” and “dangerous”, as ageing is

simply a natural process in life. In August 2017, Allure magazine announced that it would stop using the term “anti-ageing” so that it could stop “reinforcing the message that ageing is a condition we need to battle.” When Helen Mirren was approached by L’Oréal to work with the brand on a skincare campaign, she expressed the same point of view. “I said, ‘This word ‘anti-ageing’ - we know we’re getting older. You just want to look and feel as great as you can on a daily basis,” she said.


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Tap into skincare terminology to promote scalp health By Andrew McDougall, Associate Director – Beauty & Personal Care at Mintel

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ost women consider haircare as important as skincare, with the scalp seen as an extension of the face. There is an opportunity for brands to educate consumers about the importance of scalp health and direct them towards products with specific benefits. Scalp skin is more delicate and has a higher number of sebaceous glands, sweat glands and hair follicles compared to the skin on the rest of the body. To keep a healthy scalp, it’s imperative to follow a scalpcare regime that includes good cleansing (at least thrice a week), rebalancing and moisturising. Brands can position scalpcare products in the same way as in facial skincare, and direct them towards different consumers’ needs. For instance, we are seeing scalpcare that claims to protect against external factors, such as UV rays and pollution, as well as products that address specific

problems like ageing, thinning or greasy hair. There’s also an opportunity to formulate using ingredients typically found in skincare (such as niacinamide, salicylic acid, or stem cells) to address scalpcare needs. But ensuring that the right products are being used for certain needs can be confusing, so brands must help consumers find the right products and understand their hair better. Brands like My Hair Doctor use a quiz that makes consumers describe hair and scalp type, issues and desired look, and then ‘prescribes’ a group of products for multiple needs. This can then create a ‘prescription package’ that may encourage women to buy into a full regime. Mintel research shows that less than one in five European women place priority on products that target multiple problems, highlighting that consumers are keen to take time over their hair to achieve the right results, rather than opt for a

convenient ‘multi-fix’. Indeed, many are likely to question the efficacy of a product that says it can do everything. And for those who may be concerned with the amount of time that a thorough regime would take up, the night care market presents a great solution. Mintel’s Life Hacking Trend discusses how to maximise every free minute and use solutions that help increase productivity. When the body is at rest, cell regeneration is at its peak, so scalp specific treatments and serums can get their best results. This Works Modern Natural Beauty Sleep Plus+ Hair Elixir (UK) is described as a 2-in1 night treatment designed to promote better sleep and boost hair vitality thanks to its essential oil-rich formula. While Jean Louis David Recharge Me! 5 In 1 Night Serum (France) claims not to leave a greasy residue on the pillow and emphasises its benefits while the user sleeps. BFW | January-February 2020 | 25


Indie Brand Series: Scaling up

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n our series of articles for indie brands, we have explored everything from the sourcing challenges facing start-ups and the financial opportunities presented by crowdfunding to building an authentic, connected brand strategy. So, for indie brands that have successfully taken these steps, and established a loyal customer base – how do you scale up your business for mass-market appeal?

tions – with Estée Lauder purchasing Becca Cosmetics for $200 million , Too Faced for $1.45 billion , and fragrance brand Kilian for an undisclosed amount. L’Oréal is also getting in on the act, acquiring NYX Cosmetics in 2016 and investing in IT Cosmetics for $1.2 billion , while Shiseido announced the purchase of popular skincare brand, Drunk Elephant in October 2019 for a reported $845 million .

In this article, we investigate the indie brands that have successfully made the leap from niche to mainstream and share insights on how brand owners can transition without damaging brand equity.

While acquisitions by major market players offer indie brands the resources and support to continue their strategic growth – by category, region and distribution – what if selling your brand is not on the cards?

A quick look at store shelves reveals the growing power and appeal of indie brands. The days of legacy brands dominating counter space have quickly moved on as drugstores and retailers make room for niche lines. And, while established consumer favourites continue to hold their place in the market, with many looking to acquire the companies that are edging up the popularity ranks, the indies continue to drive the pace for innovation and gain the support of consumers looking for fresh new products, natural formulations and compelling back stories.

For independent brands, initial success can sometimes result in a plateau and taking that next step to scale up and grow your business

And as acquisitions in the market reveal, indie brands are big business. Unilever is among the corporate giants to be keeping a close eye on developments in the sector having acquired Dollar Shave Club in 2016 , popular color cosmetics brand Hourglass in 2017 , and more recently Tatcha in 2019 for an estimated $500 million . The brands join its ever-growing indie beauty label line-up, which includes Dermalogica, Kate Somerville and Ren . And, Unilever is not alone. Estée Lauder, L’Oréal and Shiseido have all made significant company acquisi26 | January-February 2020 | BFW

can often be a daunting prospect. So, where do you start? Staying true to your brand Indie brands have succeeded in their ability to resonate with consumers – they can offer highly personable services and often deliver an authentic experience that for the most part, legacy brands struggle to achieve. For any indie brand looking to scale up their business, the first step is to reassess your brand objectives. If you’ve met the goals you set prior to your launch, what does success look like now? By carefully evolving your business objectives for the next phase of your brand journey, you can maintain the trust and confidence you’ve gained from consumers while safeguarding your values. This will help you protect your company while focusing on what you want your brand to be as

it continues to grow. Is your brand ready? And, it’s not just your brand objectives that will need a closer look – reassessing your wider business plan is critical to ensure your brand is ready. Businesses that enjoy rapid success, may not be prepared for the ‘growing pains’ that emerge on the path to success. An honest look at your brand’s strengths, weaknesses, as well as opportunities and threats are a good place to redefine your market position and understand the possible barriers ahead of you. By taking a genuinely pragmatic approach, you can approach the next step knowing the obstacles ahead and preparing for them. You will also need to consider the resources available to you, from your team and the skills and knowledge needed to achieve your


newly defined goals, to your manufacturing, sales and distribution capacity. What about your capital and funding? Are you reinvesting profits back into the business? Are you working with partners who will inject more capital? How will you afford the growing expenses that will go hand-in-hand with your increasing reach? Learn from those who have gone before By looking outside of your own business, you can gain important advice from fellow entrepreneurs, while gaining insights from those who are enjoying mass-market success. For example, both Tatcha and Glossier have carved a tenacious path that offers much inspiration for fellow indie entrepreneurs. Glossier’s founder, Emily Weiss, secured more than $10 million to launch the brand, with an additional $76 million raised for brand expansions . While Tatcha, saw founder, Victoria Tsai, sell her car and engagement ring at the same time as working four jobs to get the brand off the ground . The commonalities shared by these brands are a vision, passion and tenacious

attitude to drive their businesses to the next level. By looking to the wider market, you can learn from the examples of success, and gain an understanding of the challenges they’ve faced along the way. Be prepared! Unfortunately, the path for any business cannot be predicted and with all the preparation, reaching that next step in your five-year plan doesn’t always go smoothly. However, by planning and regularly monitoring your business, you can anticipate the things that could go wrong, and be in a better place to take action. What we do know is that indie brands continue to capture the hearts and purses of consumers around the world, with a multitude of new and niche start-up companies emerging every year. In the US alone, independent brands have recorded high double-digit to triple-digit growth over the past few years – outpacing total market growth . With all eyes on the sector, there is no time like the present to expand your presence and ensure your brand is on the path to long-term success.

BFW | January-February 2020 | 27


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ackaging is, more than ever, a vital part of the marketing mix. More specifically, labeling can literally make or break a sale. A new breed of shoppers is avidly checking labels for ‘good’ and ‘bad’ ingredients using a variety of apps and websites, plus knowledge gleaned from the plethora of on and offline media and beauty bloggers. We take a closer look at what’s going on and how the market is responding. We’ve all heard of the phrase “I don’t want to know how the watch works; I just want to tell the time” – basically “I don’t care how it works, as long as it works”. Well, that sentiment might be true for cars or computers, but it certainly isn’t true for personal care and cosmetic products. Today’s consumers not only want to know how a product will work for them, but why, and which active ingredients are the most suitable for their personal requirements – be that their skin type, or preference for natural and organic. And to underline the fascination with ingredients, you only have to do a quick search on the internet to find literally millions of links to news items, blogs and discussions on everything from the virtues of retinol to the power of hyaluronic acid. And even the most cursory glance at brand websites, packaging and advertising highlights that individual ingredients are increasingly flagged for their efficacy, rather than the generic promises such as ‘antiageing’ or ‘smoother skin’ that we might have had in the past.

Another driver behind our obsession with ingredients is the ‘clean’ beauty movement. Mainly pushed by independent brands using social media as their key marketing platform, ‘clean’ beauty boasts natural, often organic ingredients, while products do not undergo any animal testing. These parallel movements have also been instrumental in a new campaign which seeks to ‘expose’ brands containing what are considered to be ‘questionable’ ingredients, either because they may be harmful, or because they could cause an allergic reaction in some consumers. As a result, there is now a plethora of apps available for Android and iOS smartphones that can scan barcodes to quickly reveal not only all ingredients in any given product but also which ones might have a question mark hanging over them. Think Dirty, for instance, encourages consumers to ‘understand the truths in the beauty industry’. Borne out of a desire to discover clean or ‘safe’ alternatives, the app is designed to empower the consumer, allowing them to make an informed decision on what products to purchase. Users simply scan a product barcode to receive easy-tounderstand information on its ingredients, covering everything from beauty and personal care to household products. The website also includes a host of ‘verified’ products and recently launched its own beauty box, featuring all handpicked and clean rated luxury beauty items, as well as many independent brands.

30 | January-February 2020 | BFW

Similarly, the GoodGuide claims to help guide more ‘informed’ buying decisions. The GoodGuide team, according to the site, comprises more than 50 scientific and regulatory professionals with “deep expertise in chemicals and chemical-containing products”. Its team analyzes each product based on its composition, with more than 75,000 rated products currently found on the website. In Europe, CosmEthics recommends ‘better’ alternatives to the products scanned (assuming they are available). It currently features more than 130,000 products and boasts two million items have been checked by users via the App. Users can flag ingredients that they’re keen to avoid, with the App offering suggestions from readymade lists including vegan and fragrance allergens, for example.

Focusing on the health and wellbeing of consumers, Detox Me is an app developed by the Silent Spring Institute, an organization dedicated to “uncovering the environmental causes of breast cancer.” This free app is designed to help reduce consumer exposure to potentially harmful chemicals, highlighting which beauty items or household products to avoid. And that’s not all, it allows users to track their progress over time in eliminating ‘toxic’ products and offers tips for choosing ‘safer’ alternatives alongside simple labelling explanations. Of course, mainstream beauty and skincare brands experiencing scrutiny have been quick to defend their products . They have quite rightly pointed out that there is a risk of inconsistent information provided


by such apps, while at the same time highlighting the strict regulations with which ingredients must comply, and how they are labelled.

with access to information on ingredients used in its products, going beyond current labelling and regulatory requirements.

However, this heightened focus on transparency has naturally had a profound effect on the industry. Aside from seeing the rise of the previously mentioned ‘clean’ beauty trend, this focus on more natural products has also seen global brands launch their own versions of ‘natural’.

In the US, this information is available through SmartLabel – a database of ingredients, allergens, third-party certifications, social compliance programs, usage instructions, advisories and safe handling instructions, company/brand information, along with other pertinent details about a wide range of personal care and cosmetics products, as well as thousands of food, beverage, household and pet care items.

For instance, L’Oréal’s Seed Phytonutrients is a sustainable brand with paper packaging, while the company has also rolled out organic products under its Garnier label. Clarins, meanwhile, has gone one step further by buying a 200,000acre farm in the French Alps to “grow and study plants for the development of skincare and makeup formulas”. This intense focus on ingredients has resulted in many global brands taking a closer look at their labelling policies. Launched in 2017, Unilever announced a transparency initiative which sees it provide consumers

While Unilever has been voluntarily listing fragrance allergens in line with EU labelling regulations, it also encourages European consumers to log into its What’s in Our Products website to discover the company’s approach to developing safe products along with explanations of ingredient types and answers to common questions. Procter & Gamble is in the middle of completing a similar exercise, pledging to share all fragrance ingredients down to 0.01 per cent for its entire

product portfolio in the US and Canada by the end of this year . We certainly don’t believe the intense focus on ingredients is likely to subside; Pandora’s Box is open. Marketers must begin to factor ingredients information into all of their external communications – from advertising to labelling, to keep consumers informed and reassured that nothing is hidden. This issue, like so many surrounding skincare and beauty today, relies on the value of integrity, authenticity and trust. And, in the eyes of the consumer, transparency is key.

BFW | January-February 2020 | 31


60-second interview with Jojoba Desert on jojoba

SUSTAINABILITY AND EMPOWERING CUSTOMERS ment. What do you think are the main benefits of using jojoba from a formulation viewpoint?

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he has over a decade of solid experience in the international cosmetics and personal care industry, and a strong passion for innovation and creativity. Before joining the company, Lee was Head of Commercial Division at Aromor Flavors and Fragrances. Her Expertise ranges from leading strategic development projects to crossfunctional team management, specializing in working with top cosmetic manufacturers to establish successful partnerships, and R&D cooperation. Today, Lee is leading Jojoba Desert’s global business strategy and vision towards the development of the next generation of cutting-edge Jojoba oil products. Lee holds an MBA., from the Interdisciplinary Center in Israel, specializing in finance and financial risk manage-

When applying JD Jojoba oil to the skin, the product’s extraordinary properties mimic lubricant produced by the human body (human sebum). JD Jojoba oil is an oil-free liquid wax that prevents transdermal water loss while enabling the skin’s absorption of other active compounds and essential oils. JD jojoba oil is a great anti-microbial, antiinflammatory and wound-healing wax that is soothing, safe to use, suitable for all skin types and has a long shelf-life of minimally 3 years. Collaboration between the raw material supplier and the customers – the manufacturers – in the cosmetic industry, is most important. How do you empower your customers? Customer empowerment can be achieved through a three-pronged approach: Creative Innovator – Creating innovative R&D, BD, Marketing & Sales strategies to lead the next generation of Jojoba-based products, from pure oils to enriched blends. Dedicated Partner – Researching consumer demands and forming

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partnerships to present consumers with clear benefits when using JD products, leading to our customers’ success. Responsible Leader – Abiding by quality standards and harnessing operational abilities to guarantee quality, sustainability, long shelf-life and a stable supply of premium jojoba products. Sustainability is a crucial criterion in decision making regarding the raw material supplier in the cosmetic industry. What are Jojoba Desert’s sustainability credentials? Jojoba Desert products are guaranteed sustainable from seed to oil. Our operations combine growing terms, quality standards and operational abilities, making JD a responsible Jojoba industry world leader. Our sustainable practices include maintaining a green area surrounding our plantations, using reclaimed water, renewable energy (solar and from discarded waste) sources and reusing Jojoba pulp. These practices enable JD to ensure a long product shelf-life and a stable JD product supply with respect to environment and nature.


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Entering the era of vibrational cosmetics: THE NEXT GENERATION APPROACH TO MIND-BODY & SKIN REGENERATION

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uring meditation wrinkles in the skin relax and disappear or are minimized temporarily.

It is said that permanent forehead wrinkles come from muscle contraction during stress. Laugh wrinkles become permanent etc. If this is so, then it can also be said that the meditation process will, in the long run, act as an age defyingappearance enhancing method. Since each individual has an optimal gut microbiome balance of microbe types and concentration, then a disruption of the optimal balance would disturb the optimal function. Once homeostasis is disrupted, either temporarily or permanently, from factors like stress or undesirable food digestion etc. there will be a two- directional disruption of the function of the skin- gut- brain axis. On this foundation, our team, led by moderator Meyer R. Rosen, President of Interactive Consulting, Inc. we proudly present an introduction to the next generation of Cosmetic Science Technology in the continuing search for Wellness and Beauty. As explained by Dr. Kavita Beri

Vibrational Cosmetics is the integrated approach of combining eastern holistic science with western aesthetics to achieve a complete regeneration and rejuvenation of the mind, body and the skin. It incorporates the understanding of the energetic body and how it can influence and help in the rejuvenation process. Various eastern holistic approaches can be used in a modern light to individualize and customize treatments so they can be specific to create harmony and symbiosis in the body. There is scientific evidence for this integration to be effective, and that is through the understanding of the human microbiome and its skin-gut-brain axis that is played out in the immune system. A strong correlation between a healthy state is the symbiosis of the microbiome with host and its surrounding environment which in turn creates a balance in the skin-gut-brain axis influencing the regenerative immune pathways. As explained by Dr. Moiz Kasubhai A beautiful glowing skin is a reflection of our mind and body and it improves self-confidence and attractiveness. As is well known, the

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skin is the largest organ in our body and it is affected by what we eat, our feelings and our thoughts. Mindfulness and Meditation have a major impact on how we combat stress and our hormonal response to it. An inappropriate response stimulates sebaceous oil glands and causes inflammation and acne flare ups. I will be discussing the various easy and interesting ways to practice mindfulness that can be applied in our daily lives and enhance positive vibrations to the body’s bioelectric field. Plant Based Nutrition is an excellent and easy strategy to delay skin aging and reduce oxidative stress. We all love food but does the food that we eat love us? Dairy products have a lot of hormones which cause inflammation of the skin. Also the high fiber intake associated with plants decreases the toxin intake with processed food. I will be discussing the ways to increase intake of plant based food while enjoying all the pleasures of eating.


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Fine Mist spray is a breath of fresh air

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t’s often said that fashion goes in cycles. Responding to the current rage for spraying and spritzing, Quadpack has re-launched Fine Mist; an astonishingly effective spray for water-based formulas.

Spraying on a lightweight layer of facial product is back on the trend radar. Perhaps it's the rising global temperatures or our on-the-go lifestyles. It could be the influence of Korean beauty regimes and their preference for lighter, water-based products. Without the environmentally damaging effects of aerosols, the Fine Mist spray dispenses an incredibly sheer and even mist of products to hydrate, protect and perk up skin throughout the day. Fine Mist is available in sizes from 30ml to 150ml and three different nozzle widths, which the user can play with, adjusting spray extent and density according to their moods and needs. This intuitive function means Fine Mist is suitable for a wide variety of products, from fixers and toners, to those that require greater volume, such as sunscreens and spritzers You can go to town with colourful silk-screening, hot stamping and even metallization on the bottle, or how about a contrasting nozzle for a pert little gesture that really pops out on the shelf. Whichever way you go, the Fine Mist is destined to become the new musthave in the handbag, and will keep your customers looking and feeling cool all day long. About Quadpack Industries Quadpack Industries is an international manufacturer and provider of enhanced packaging solutions for beauty brand owners and contract fillers. With offices and production facilities in Europe, the US and the Asia Pacific region, and a strategic network of manufacturing partners, Quadpack develops bespoke and customised packs for prestige, masstige and mass market customers. For more information, please visit www.quadpack.com.

What next for beauty? New trends unveiled at the Quadpack Roadshow

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oadshow. It’s an exciting, inspiring event, where future trends in beauty packaging are presented. These predictions are based on solid market research, an intimate study of shifts in social and consumer behaviour, and most importantly, feedback from Quadpack’s clients and customers. “One of our main considerations is ‘community’” said Katie Hoddinott, Head of Design at Quadpack. “In the future, people will be living in all sorts of different ways and this will affect their purchasing habits. ‘Clean packaging’ is going to be enormous; a simplified look with less components for more effective recycling, along with transversal formats that can segue from skincare to make-up and even fragrance. Small doses for frequent travellers, modern nomads and new environments such as co-living will also gain strength.” So how does this drive direction in the three big beauty categories? Skin Care Sustainability continues to be the big theme in skincare. Brands, and customers, are driving a demand for eco materials such as PCR (Post consumer recycled) plastic, bio-plastics and sustainably sourced wood. Wooden caps, collars and other accents add artisan value to plastic, glass and industrial materials, creating out-of-the-box combinations. Increasingly sophisticated formulas call for double chamber jars and hygienic application tools such as spatulas. Make-up Hybridisation is the focus in make-up, a trend driven by the popularity of lighter, liquid formulas and the need to simplify make-up and skincare regimes. The once defined line between these categories is being blurred, creating a disruption of materials traditionally used in each one and crossover between the two. The trend for body make-up – shimmers, glows and oils – is leading to large 50ml + formats. Fragrance Catalogue lines will be the focus for Quadpack Fragrance; easily customised solutions that respond to new launches that eschew the established definition of luxury and instead communicate sustainability, value for money and integrity. The role of the fragrance celebrity ‘muse’ is being replaced by real people promoting fragrances where shared values and honest formulas are the priority. For more information, please visit www.quadpack.com.

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Rise of the machines: 5 ways AI is transforming the beauty industry

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rtificial intelligence, it is said, will power the fourth industrial revolution, changing the way we work, live and interact. It is rapidly disrupting all kinds of industries, and in beauty, companies from the largest multinationals to independent start-ups are increasingly investing in AI to bring groundbreaking innovations to consumers. Earlier this year L’Oréal snapped up AI and augmented reality (AR) beauty brand ModiFace with plans to “support the reinvention of the beauty experience”. Coty, meanwhile, has launched an accelerator programme for AI start-ups to earn an opportunity to work with the beauty company. And Perfect Corp has debuted its first Global AI Challenge, inviting creative innovators to develop beauty tech

solutions using AI across all product categories from toothpaste to nail polish. But what else can we expect from the beauty industry? Below are five trends that you can expect to see more from in 2018 and beyond…

first company to leverage AI in the beauty sector” when it launched over three years ago. Prose is another brand that has gained attention for its use of AI technology to personalise shampoo and conditioner products.

Product personalisation Some industry players are sounding the death knell for one-size-fits-all ‘big beauty’.

Chatbots “Bots are the new apps,” said Microsoft CEO Satya Nadella in a keynote speech at a company conference back in 2016. “Peopleto-people conversations, peopleto-digital assistants, people-tobots… that’s the world you’re going to get to see in the years to come.”

The rise of the personalisation trend has projected an ideal scenario where customers are able to have their specific needs met and fulfilled with a unique and optimised formula, leaving generic off-the-shelf cosmetics behind as products of yesteryear. And in the world of AIbased beauty products, brands are already claiming this patch. Customised hair care brand Function of Beauty says it was “arguably the

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The beauty industry has been quick off the mark in making this happen. Alongside Sephora, Estée Lauder and L’Oréal, other brands that have invested in beauty bots over the past two years include CoverGirl, which launched the world’s first influencer chatbot, based on TV

celebrity Kalani Hilliker, back in November 2016. Other branded chatbots include: La Mer, which offers Regimen Finder for personalised skin care routines; Madison Reed’s hair colour bot Madi; Dior’s Dior Insider chatbot which answers product questions and offers beauty advice on Messenger; and Smashbox, which in 2018 launched the first chatbot that incorporates full face augmented reality looks. Retail experiences Beauty retailers are jumping on AI and AR-based technologies to create playful, immersive and personalised shopping customer experiences – and reinvent their bricks-and-mortar spaces in the process. Virtual try-on shopping experiences went mainstream in the beauty industry in 2017, with brands and retailers from MAC to Macy’s rolling out AR magic mirrors and


Perfect Corp and ModiFace establishing themselves as leading providers of AR technology. And last month Bourjois unveiled a next-generation blended reality magic mirror at its newly relaunched boutique in Paris. The AR make-up try-on experience integrates physical products with digital content in order to make the experience feel more real. The shopper picks up a Bourjois Rouge Velvet lipstick and the colour instantly appears on their lips. Skin advisors Skin analysis platforms that use

artificial intelligence to assess skin and recommend products may not be about to take the job of a professional dermatologist – but they might transform the way consumers shop for skin care products. One of the biggest developments in this area is Olay’s Skin Advisor, an AI-led skin analysis platform that was launched by the brand after its research found that consumers needed help to shop more effectively for their skin care products. And a new wave of digital advisors could be about to join the industry and act as in-store beauty

consultants too. Finnish start-up Revieve’s Digital Beauty Advisor, which launched in 2017, provides skin care advice and recommendations after analysing 68 factors such as redness, eye bags and wrinkles via selfie analysis and running data through its AI-powered Personalization Engine. Voice activation Voice-based artificial intelligence will be a game changer in beauty over the next five to ten years, according to leading industry players Coty, Estée Lauder, Perfect Corp and ModiFace. Not only will it unlock new experiences and

address shopping concerns, it could change the relationship beauty brands have with customers. Recent innovations include Estée Lauder’s first voice activation experience, the Estée Lauder Nighttime Expert app on Google Home; and Coty’s Let’s Get Ready voice-driven personal beauty assistant with Amazon Echo.

Beauty Industry Trends in China Brands Must Know The beauty industry in China is thriving, and Euromonitor International estimates that the beauty and personal care market in China will reach $62 billion by 2020. The global beauty market is also seeing favorable numbers, so the segment is sure to bring incredible opportunities to luxury retailers worldwide. Cosmetics and personal-care are the current high-demand sectors, but there are still some trends that retailers should consider if they want to increase their global profit margin. But first, luxury beauty players need to understand Chinese consumer demographics and the new market shift toward younger, brand-savvy buyers. The modern Chinese beauty consumer is no stranger to switching brands, as they’re less loyal than older generations. This analysis is supported by the China Insight Report: The New Face of Beauty in China, which was produced by Reuter: Intelligence. The luxury intelligence platform “performed qualitative focus group discussions, smartphone-enabled ethnographies, big data analytics, and a quantitative online survey of over 300 consumers across first-tier cities Shanghai, Beijing, and Guangzhou.” The results concluded that over 60 percent of the respondents were very curious about niche brands, so despite their established record of credibility, big international retailers should be wary of this characteristic. But there are other difficulties that international brands need to overcome in China today, so they must understand the following trends: Chinese brands are seeing positive momentum According to research by HKTDC, domestic brands now own 56 percent of the Chinese market, a sizable gain due to homegrown brands expanding into Tier-2 and Tier-3 cities. Moreover, WWD mentions that best-selling brands like Pechoin (skincare), Chando (skincare), and One Leaf (facial masks) ranked as top-10 Singles’ Day sellers in 2017, despite their relative anonymity in the West. China’s cosmetics market is progressing because consumer preferences are constantly changing, and local brands have an edge in understanding consumer needs. Thus, international brands need to show an ongoing commitment toward excellence and innovation in the beauty market. The male segment is seeing unprecedented growth A study conducted in 2015 by Statista shows that Chinese men spent an average of 2.2 hours a week on grooming, while women dedicate around 3.8 hours on average. Tao Yi Xue, a consumer analyst with Cinda Securities, believes that as male moisturizers, creams, and lotions have grown in popularity, China has entered a “male beauty era,” and beauty brands would be wise not to neglect this highly lucrative segment.

BFW | January-February 2020 | 39


BEAUTY IN 2020: THE NEW NATURAL

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hile natural beauty is a well-established category, in 2020, it undoubtedly ratcheted up a notch in the popularity stakes. Indeed, the popular clean beauty movement is said to have been behind a 27 percent sales increase in skin care alone this year, according to a report published by USA Today. The reason behind this is moot – with some arguing that it’s a reaction to the tech wizardry of life in the 21st century or, alternatively, prompted by a series of safety scandals that have put consumers on the high alert. Either way, natural has become a priority for many consumers (see our consumer insight video on the topic) and there’s a growing camp, spurred on by clean enthusiasts, that are eschewing ‘chemicals’. The prevailing belief appears to be that chemical = bad, natural = good. And therein lies the contradiction in terms that our industry must navigate over the next 12 months, for –

newsflash clean camp – naturals are chemicals too. Naturals can also be deadly, which is something we discussed at length during our podcast: Naturals – The Big Debate, with panellist Meryem Benohoud rightly pointing out that natural does not mean safe – despite consumer perception to the contrary. And while Johnson & Johnson has long held its nerve on this point, repeatedly insisting safe is more important than natural (although the talc cases aren’t helping), other FMCG majors are caving to demand either launching all-new natural lines or buying stakes in existing brands, L’Oreal’s purchased of Logocos Naturkosmetik is a case in point. Henkel has gone for it with Nature Box and P&G’s Gillette is rumoured to be jumping on the naturals bandwagon early next year, as is L’Oreal’s Garnier. And who can blame them? It’s a license to print money right now. For when shoppers see a picture of an almond on their face wash, they don’t see potentially lethal cyanide, and they don’t see catastrophic

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drought. They see ‘safe’ and ‘environmentally friendly’. Essentially, consumers see ‘natural’ and assume the brand wondered into a forest, picked a couple of leaves, ground ‘em up and added them to a cream.

clear cut but we’re still trading on that image. In some cases, the plantbased alternative is less sustainable than the animal-derived ingredient it is seeking to replace – lanolin is a prime example.

And that is very much our fault. We’ve marketed natural with comforting imagery – we’ve had women washing their hair in waterfalls and pretty pictures of superfoods, which create an aura of wellness and health. Our ‘justpicked’ bathroom shelf line-up has become almost indistinguishable from our fridge. Nowhere have we emphasized the deeply scientific processes that extracts the active ingredients from a given plant and serves them up in our moisturizer.

And this fudging of the facts could derail the whole industry. In 2019, I’d like to see a bit more selfregulation – or even legislation designed to protect and inform the consumer as well as level the playing field. After all, meaningless marketing – for example when a product is touted as ‘free from’ something such as parabens, when it would never have contained them in the first place, is not helping anyone. Free from isn’t necessarily better and its time we had that conversation. Science should be celebrated – a lab coat doesn’t have to be feared.

And as natural beauty gets more and more aligned with food (read more about farm-to-face here) and wellness, the reality versus perception gap is only widening. The rise of plant-based, vegan cosmetics is a case in point. Now, a vegan diet is touted as the environmentally friendly choice – but when it comes to cosmetics, it is nowhere near as

We need a transparency revolution because, ultimately, the naturals trend is being driven by a consumer desire for transparency and the more we gloss over the science bit with pretty pictures of lemons, the more potential this has to blow up in our faces.


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Good skin care practices can help teens to battle stubborn acne

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eing a teenager can be tough. Teens must manage high school and the pressures of adolescence while at the same time battling stubborn acne. During summer vacation, teenage acne often lessens because of greater sun exposure and decreased stress, but with school back in session, it's necessary to remind teens of good skin care practices and ways to treat acne before it becomes a major concern. Acne affects about 85 percent of people between the ages of 12 and 24, and is the most common skin condition in the United States, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. "A teen often feels alone in suffering from embarrassing pimples," said Dr. David Shupp, a dermatologist at Penn State Health Medical Group – Colonnade in State College. "Because acne is caused primarily by hormone levels, the condition often begins at puberty and clears up by the late 20s. Girls are more susceptible than boys to hormone-related acne." Shupp said that when a teen begins to experience mild acne, the first step is to treat with an over-thecounter cream, gel or lotion applied directly to affected areas, most commonly the face, chest, upper back and shoulders. Nonprescription acne medications typically include one of the following active ingredients: Benzoyl peroxide kills bacteria, helps remove excess oil from the skin and reduces inflammation. Check the label for benzoyl peroxide strength, which can range from 2.5 to 10 percent in over-the-

counter products. Salicylic acid dries excess oils and works best for blackheads and whiteheads. The strength typically ranges from 0.5 to 5 percent. Adapalene prevents plugging of hair follicles and is available in 0.1 percent strength over the counter. The acne medication, a retinoid derived from vitamin A and commonly sold as the brand name Differin, was previously only available by prescription. Teens with other skin conditions, such as eczema or psoriasis, should consult their doctor before experimenting with over-the-counter acne medications, according to Shupp. "If over-the-counter medications don't provide enough relief from acne, it's time to discuss prescription medications with a dermatologist or family physician," Shupp said. Acne medications available only by prescription include: Stronger retinoids, such as Retin-A. These are among the most effective topical medications but can be more drying than over-the-counter options. Antibiotics, which can be administered orally or via a topical gel or cream to kill excess bacteria. Topical antibiotics are often combined with benzoyl peroxide to maximize effectiveness while lowering the risk of antibiotic resistance. Hormonal treatments, which impact the balance of hormones that cause acne and are usually prescribed to supplement topical medications or antibiotics in young women. Birth control pills are the most common hormonal treatment for acne.

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Another option is spironolactone, which blocks androgen hormones. An excess of these hormones is a common cause of acne in women. Isotretinoin (common brand name Accutane) is a powerful vitamin A derivative used to treat severe acne that does not respond to other medications. Potential side effects include birth defects, so teenage and adult women taking this oral medication must undergo monthly pregnancy tests. Gently clean affected skin twice a day. Scrubbing can damage the skin and aggravate an acne problem. Avoid abrasive products. Keep hands and hair away from the face to reduce the transfer of oil. Use oil-free cosmetics, sunscreen, moisturizer and hair products. Look for the label "noncomedogenic." Don't squeeze pimples. This can lead to permanent scarring. Don't use acne medication prescribed to someone else. Follow the label or doctor's instructions for all products. Overuse won't clear up an outbreak any faster and instead could cause redness or peeling that appears worse than the original pimples. Be patient. Any new product usually takes several weeks or even months to show noticeable improvement. Switching quickly from one product to another lessens effectiveness. Be consistent. After an outbreak clears up, follow physician instructions for maintenance to help prevent future outbreaks. "Although science has not discovered a cure for acne, careful treatment can minimize this skin condition until adulthood, when most acne clears up on its own," Shupp said.


BFW | January-February 2020 | 43


Insights about the skin hydration mechanisms that will help you produce moisturizing products By Cleber Barros, Technical Researcher, Vinia

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f you are a cosmetic formulator and you develop products for skin care, then you’ve probably had to formulate at least one product with a moisturizing claim. There are several ways to promote skin hydration, and knowing each one of them is extremely important so you can develop products that are truly effective in promoting skin moisturization. For example, did you know that preventing water from leaving the skin is not the only way to contribute to its hydration? Yup, there are many other mechanisms that your products can work on to promote the moisturization of the skin. That’s why I chose this subject to write about, so you can learn how to develop innovative and effective moisturizing products based on the natural process of skin hydration. Cellular structures of the stratum corneum The skin is the largest organ of the human body, and it has many functions that are vital for the maintenance of the body’s homeostasis, such as thermal and water flux control. These functions are only possible because the skin has a barrier that is composed by a majority of dead cells filled with keratin – the corneocytes – and a lipidic extracellular matrix. In order for this barrier to function well, as well as maintain our health and prevent microbial contamination on the inside of the body, is vital that the skin is always hydrated. The stratum corneum is the outer layer of the skin, and it is responsible for the barrier function. The stratum corneum is composed of a layer of anucleated dead cells (the corneocytes) that are surrounded

by a protein shell called ‘cornified envelope’. These corneocytes contain keratin and other molecules called the natural moisturizing factor; besides an extracellular matrix, in which the corneocytes are immersed. This structure can be described as the brick and mortar complex (in this metaphor, the corneocytes represent the brick, and the extracellular matrix, the mortar). When the relative humidity is high, the keratin fibers absorb large amounts of water, even doubling the weight of the corneocytes when they are completely filled. On the other hand, in conditions of low relative humidity, the keratin filaments are solidified, which influences negatively on the viscoelastic and water absorption properties of the stratum corneum. However, the keratin is not the only component of the corneocytes capable of retaining water. There are also small hygroscopic compounds inside these cells which are called the natural moisturizing factor (known as NMF). The NMF is composed mostly by amino acids and their derivatives, which are formed by the breakdown of a protein called filaggrin. The filaggrin is a large histidine rich protein that is derived from a precursor known as profilaggrin, which is a high molecular weight protein localized on the granular layer. As the granular cells differentiate into cornified cells, the profilaggrin is degraded into a lower molecular weight protein: the filaggrin. At this stage, filaggrin starts to aggregate filaments, catalyzing the processes that will form the keratin molecules. Still, the formation of the keratin, as said before, is not the only function of the filaggrin,

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because it continues to be degraded almost instantaneously after the formation of the keratin, this way forming the amino acids and their compounds which will form the NMF. The conversion of filaggrin to NMF occurs as the corneocytes are moving to the more superficial layers of the stratum corneum. There are some factors that can reduce the formation of the NMF. Low air humidity is one of them. In conditions where the air humidity is <10%, the enzymes that proteolyse

the filaggrin are less effective. Other factors that negatively affect the formation of the NMF are chronological aging and sunlight exposure. The NMF compounds can be classified as very effective humectants, since they have the property to bind to the water from the atmosphere, attaching it to the skin. Unfortunately, some studies has shown that these compounds are easily lost, even a simple cleansing routine is enough to wash the NMF compounds away. Besides the


amino acids and their derivatives, there are also other molecules that are considered as part of the NMF, but are external to the corneocytes. Some of them are: urea, lactates and electrolytes. Another compound of the skin that is long used in the cosmetic industry is hyaluronic acid (HA). HA is one of the major compounds of the dermis, but some researches have shown that it is also present in the epidermis, where it plays an important role in the barrier function and also in the skin hydration. HA, as the NMF, has an humectant function, but it is also essential for the cellular mechanism once it influences the cell-cell and cellmatrix connections. Recent studies have also shown that the HA also plays a role on the differentiation of the keratinocytes and the extracellular lipids formation. Glycerol is another hygroscopic compound present on the skin. It is produced

by the sebaceous gland and it also plays an important role in skin hydration. The mechanism of the function of glycerol is still unknown, but some studies revealed that some alterations on the intrinsic hydration of the skin are more connected with the amount of glycerol produced by the sebaceous gland than with the amount of sebum produced by them (contrary to what was thought). This discovery, according to the researchers, is really important to the development of moisturizing cosmetics. Now we know that the addition of glycerol can contribute to the potential of moisturization in these products. Lipidic structures of the stratum corneum Besides the cellular structures, skin also has an lipidic content which helps to maintain its hydration. These structures are the compounds that

form the extracellular matrix, or the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;mortarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; where the corneocytes are imerse. This extracellular matrix is composed of 50% ceramides, 10% fatty acids, 25% cholesterol, and 15% of cholesterol derivatives and glucosylceramides. Most of the stratum corneum lipids are synthetized by the keratinocytes on the upper spinous and granular layers. When they reach the interface between the spinous and granular layers, these lipids are transported to the stratum corneum, where they will compose the extracellular matrix, forming an apolar, water-impermeable layer. The extracellular lipids, due to their hydrophobic characteristics, form a physical barrier against the transepidermal water and electrolytes loss. These lipids are organized in a series of parallel lamellar

membranes, and this organization is vital for the formation of a narrow and extremely efficient barrier. Several studies report the disorganization of this structure, as well as the deficiency of its production, as factors that determine several skin hydration issues, such as atopic skin, dermatitis and senile xerosis. New members of the ceramides family are constantly being found, but ceramide-1 (the most polar between the ceramides) plays a major role on the extracellular lipids organization. Some research demonstrated that the signs of skin aging are intrinsically related to the deficiency on the ceramides content, even on skin with a healthy appearance. It happens due to the disorganization of the lipids, that is caused by the absence of ceramides. Cholesterol increases the fluidity of extracellular lipids, besides contributing to the elastic properties of the skin.

BFW | January-February 2020 | 45


Lamellar bodies are also vital for the stratum corneum maintenance, once it contains enzymes such as hydrolases and proteases which are responsible for the synthesis of lipids of the corneum layer and for the physiological process of desquamation. Sebum, which is produced by sebaceous glands, is responsible for the formation of a hydrolipidic mantle on the surface of the skin, thus participating in the formation of the epidermal barrier. Human sebum is composed of 47% fatty acids, 17% ester waxes, 11% scalene, 7% cholesterol, 3% triglycerides and 2% cholesterol esters.

amount of extracellular lipids of the stratum corneum, helping the effective treatment of skin dehydration. Studies have shown that the use of a single group of lipids in cosmetics is not the most effective measure to improve skin hydration. In some cases, the use of ceramides alone can even worsen the skin condition. Still, the association of the three main classes of skin lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids) is a reliable way to restore the skin barrier function, thus improving skin hydration to its ideal condition.

The absence of the sebum production is associated with diverse skin disorders, such as senile xerosis and atopic skin.

So skin hydration is a complex process that involves several cellular and extracellular pathways. For teaching purposes, I divided this article into two chapters (one for the cellular and one for the lipidic structures).

Fatty acids form a substrate that composes the acidity of the skin surface, an important defense mechanism against pathological microorganisms. Besides, it helps to maintain the homeostasis of the skin barrier.

However, it is important to remember that the skin is an active organ. Therefore, all these processes happens at the same time, all the time, on our skin.

When topically applied, lipids that are not naturally present on the skin (such as petrolatum, for instance) can help on the treatment of skin disorders related to the deficiency of skin hydration by forming an occlusive barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. However, these lipids canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be absorbed by the skin, so applying these products is only a palliative measure.

The cellular pathways of skin hydration occur by the binding of water to hydrophilic compounds, such as the keratin filaments and the NMF compounds.

On the other hand, the lipids similar to the ones which are naturally present on our skin are absorbed when topically applied, thus increasing the

46 | January-February 2020 | BFW

However, the lipid processes that contribute to skin hydration occur due to the formation of an occlusive barrier that prevents the transepidermal water loss. So when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re formulating a moisturizing cosmetic, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to remember that you must use ingredients that associate both of the skin hydration mechanisms. This way you make sure that the product will have an effective and permanent result.


Genderless Beauty!

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ithout a doubt, this is one of the most interesting current trends, since it has driven a creative movement in all cosmetic categories, starting with fragrances and makeup, where it has had a great development, up to personal care and skin care where we can see new disruptive concepts. The following are some of the new trends that are leading the advance in the genderless concepts. Genderless voice: The Internet of Things (IoT) is revolutionizing the way in which devices interact with cosmetics, beauty and consumers. Last month, the launch of Q, “the world’s first genderless voice,” was announced, which was created to put an end to the gender bias in virtual assistants of artificial intelligence. It is like a Siri or Alexa, but not masculine or feminine.

competitions that have been very popular in the region, including: “La más Draga”, reality show that has its own channel on YouTube (1), “Versus DragQueens Mx” project carried out between Chile and Mexico (2), “Oh my Drag” in Colombia (3), “Dragstars” project that aimed to create the first queer group in Latin America, “Carrera Drag” in Mexico (4) and “Drag me as Queen”, created by E! in 2018. On the other hand, the participation of the first transgender participant in Miss Universe was also highly commented last year, undoubtedly a very interesting trend that has also been reflected in various events in Latin America. These competitions honour

It was specially designed at a frequency between 145 and 175 hertz, a range defined by scientists of sound. In this aspect, the creators of Q say: “as society continues to tear down the gender binary, recognizing those who do not identify as men or women, the technology we create must continue” … bye bye to digital sexism. in-cosmetics we will see soon the launch of the first applications developed for the IoT, AI (artificial intelligence), RV (virtual reality) and RA (augmented reality) in which the voices and images will be genderless. In this way, the entire union of technology, devices and cosmetics will be more inclusive, since we are all human beings and we do not want labels. Ru Beauty: The cosmetic industry and especially the makeup industry is having a great source of inspiration in RuPaul’s drag race and in the great movement that has influenced Latin America (and globally), since there are currently more than 5 drag 48 | January-February 2020 | BFW

diversity, acceptance, respect, selfesteem and personal appreciation. That is the reason why cosmetics plays a fundamental role in the development of these programs that are generating styles, trends and concepts and we see on YouTube many videos and tutorials on makeup finishes and application tips with thousands of reproductions. For this reason, several brands in Latin America are launching more inclusive product lines that promote these values ??and celebrate individuality and human authenticity. We are also seeing more often the participation of Drag models in the platforms for new product launches. Vegan and genderless … the new fragrances that set trends in

Latam: The vegan trend has made the leap from skin care, personal care and makeup to fragrances and that is why several brands in the region are launching this claim in new products to meet the needs of this niche. On the other hand, fragrances no longer want to have gender and neither understand about seasons… Fluid gender – a trend that grows in the region: The fluid gender is one that does not recognize a defined sexual identity and can perform between the neutral, the masculine or the feminine, that is to say, that it circulates among several gender identities. For example, in Argentina, Facebook allows you to choose from 54 gender options when


creating a profile. Different kind of gender-free cosmetics, launched by major brands, are already arriving in Latin America, which include fragrances, natural tones for lips, facial routines of skin care, facial makeup kits â&#x20AC;Ś the objective of brands is the inclusion, that means, anyone can use the products This trend is gaining strength in Latin America and in many of our countries local brands are starting to launch products with these concepts. Neutral packaging: It is also interesting to see how the codes of packaging and packaging evolve in this trend. We are seeing minimalist packaging, neutral packaging and designs without gender in the new proposals. Athleisure: In this trend, we also see the rise of the non-gender concept. The products to use before, during and after the gym are

opening a very important segment in the region and we are seeing concepts of new products away from the gender and focused on athletic performance. The objective is to prepare the body for physical activity, maintain it in optimal conditions during the activity and promote its recovery after exercise. Neuro-gender: Thanks to neuroscience, the cosmetics industry is identifying preferences that go beyond gender. We recently published an article on how to apply neuroscience to develop a methodology that allows evaluating the genderless olfactory profile of different perfumes. Genderless innovation is trendyâ&#x20AC;Ś because the big changes start from the minorities and for that reason, the brands are making very interesting innovation challenges in different categories, without gender and without prejudices.

BFW | January-February 2020 | 49


Fragrance inspirations in a New Look Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA Focuses on Revitalising Popular Topics example, with notes of sparkling champagne, the floral fragrance turns into a harmonious combination that provides a refreshing variety in everyday life. Hemp Revamped

Rediscovering France

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ooking at the fragrance trends of the new year, well-known themes with new interpretations will become very popular. Impulses can be found in different familiar concepts ranging from "Vive la France" to the Pantone Colour of the Year. In its trend forecast, the fragrance and aroma house Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA particularly emphasises the distinctive sense that is essential for extraordinary compositions. Previously hidden facets of France, the new positive image of hemp, inner peace and coral, as a trend colour, serve as inspirations for new fragrance creations.

No other country stands for luxury and elegance like France. French cuisine has just undergone a revival with young Michelin-starred chefs, and this wave of change is now continuing into cosmetics and household care. The focus here is on the jewels of the breath-taking landscapes between Brittany and the CĂ´te d'Azur: alongside lavender in exciting variations, e.g. with truffles, the popularity of sea fennel and oleander as plants less used in cosmetics has increased. Up to now, the former was mainly found in the gourmet kitchen and its appearance is reminiscent of algae. The fresh yet bitter-salty scent of the umbellifer is not only perfect for personal care products, but also for detergents. Whereas sea fennel, due to its exotic character, is primarily used solo, the opulent scent of oleander are mainly found in combination with other nuances. For

50 | January-February 2020 | BFW

It is not only in the new interpretation of France that plants play a major role. While only a few years ago hemp could only be mentioned behind closed doors, the useful and ornamental plant is now becoming more present than ever in the beauty segment. Manufacturers of personal care products take advantage of the beneficial properties of this natural product, rather than of plant parts containing THC. Hemp is said to strengthen the immune system and fight skin diseases. Rich in nutrients and vital substances, this product is particularly recommended for sensitive skin, as it is said to strengthen the skin's moisture barrier. Hemp thus has the best basis to further establish itself as a trend. A little luxury in everyday life with "Me Time" In our fast-moving world, moments of relaxation are an important commodity. Fragrances help to find inner peace and time for yourself the so-called "Me Time". Both fresh and slightly spicy notes, which are also used in aromatherapy, are suitable for this purpose. Generally, soft and soothing fragrances that are neither too sweet nor too dominant are effective. Here, harmony plays an omnipresent role. The aim is always to create a well-balanced blend of relaxing fragrances. They support "Me Time" by wrapping the man or woman in a soft layer of scent and thereby harmonising body and mind. The holistic approach of this trend allows it to be applied not only to personal care products but

also to air fresheners and candles. "Living Coral" - a dignified colour in new splendour Not only when it comes to "Me Time" does one rely on the tried and true. Even the artists of the Renaissance knew how to stylishly stage the colour coral. The bright red-orange hue was particularly indispensable for jewellery. The renowned Pantone Institute has chosen "Living Coral" as the Colour of the Year for 2019 - a tone that best reflects the spirit of the time. In their explanation, they state that this life-affirming coral red with golden undertones shows the perfect combination of the natural and digital realities. It is a comforting colour that is found both in nature and has a vivid presence on social media. Bell's perfumers have been using the ubiquitous colour as inspiration for new compositions ranging from summery-maritime notes to floral-powdery nuances, which are ideal for cosmetics, fine fragrances and trendy household care products. About Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA: Bell Flavors & Fragrances is a leading supplier of flavours, fragrances, botanical extracts and ingredient specialities to the beverage and food industry, as well as the household care and personal care industry. Bellâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s affiliated companies in the United States, Canada, Mexico, Brazil, China and Singapore give the company flexibility in the world market place and enable Bell to bring new trends quickly to customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s attention.

Contact: Janine Hammer Teamleader Marketing Fragrances j.hammer@bell-europe.com www.bell-europe.com


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Beauty in Colombia: Increased demand for natural skin care

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espite the economic slowdown, Colombians continue to pay close attention to what ingredients they put on their skin. With growing interest in pursuing more natural lifestyles, consumers want more control over the ingredients used in their beauty products as they begin to understand the short- and longterm effects of harsh and synthetic chemicals on their bodies. “Products and brands free of harmful ingredients such as silicones, parabens and sulphates are considered “clean or natural” even when they do not meet the criteria. Masks, face washes, lotions, moisturisers, and scrubs are essential parts of women’s routines but the ingredients that make up these products are just as important as the products themselves”,

comments Anissa Wolf, research analyst at Euromonitor International. The interest in natural products and ingredients has led to an increasing number of consumers creating home-made products and beauty solutions with the help of brands and influencers. However, the current market only has a few completely natural products with some minimalistic branding, communicating key natural ingredients but not reaching a wide consumer base. “These opportunities encourage players to develop products with more sustainable and multiple high-performance ingredients. As a result, the usage of ingredients such as parabens, triclosan, and formaldehydereleasing preservatives are expected to decline, with preservative boosters being used more often in the future”, adds Wolf.

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