PG. 01 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — — — — — — Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper — — — — — Free — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Fashion & Furniture
Scandinavian Talent: NN07
SEX SEX SEX The Temperature Rises at Annhagen Hot Boys at jean//phillip Stine Goya goes Burlesque
By Malene Birger & the ‘LBD’ Today’s Shows Soulland, Moonspoon Saloon Wood Wood Cover photo: CHRISTIAN BRYLLE, SCOOP MODELS AND EVA HELENE, UNIQUE, IN jean//phillip Photo by Oliver Katibi Stalmans(www.katibiphotography.com)
PG. 2 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Editorial — by Chris Pedersen — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — A message of SEX SEX SEX emanated loud and clear from some of — my favorite collections this season. Jørgen Simonsen presented — a collection that brought me directly back to my younger days — — when I would slash my Guns’n Roses t-shirts and pretend to — be a bad-ass rocker, hiding my provincial dump background. — Jørgen Simonsen’s red carpet numbers might not suit my day-to— — day needs (being a man and all), but kudos to anyone facing — these times with a blast of glamour. — Publishers Copenhagen Fashion Week and DANSK Magazine — — Editor-in-chief Chris Pedersen — — I also regret not being able to wear the all-female Designers Project Coordinator/Editor
Executive Editor Anne Christine Persson Subeditor Magnus Jorem Art Direction/ Graphic Design Applied Projects/ applied.dk Assistant Graphic Designer Kim Christian BrAmskov/ Style Counsel Web Editor Mads Kruse Writers Stinne Jensen, Kathrine Haue, Charlotte Wendt Jensen, Susanne Madsen, Helle Rohde, Mathias Vestergaard, Mads Arlien-Søborg Photographers Anders Von Greffelstejn/ andersvongreffelstejn.com Oliver Katibi Stalmans/ katibiphotography.com Mark Emil Hermansen/ markemilhermansen.com Sacha Maric/ sachamaric.com Emile Sadria/ emilesadria.com Rasmus Brøndsted /madeinschool.com Emil Thomsen Schmidt /madeinschool.com Illustrators Femmes Regionales/ femmesregionales.com Editorial assistants Cathrine Møss Ditte Rares Louise Rosenmeier Distribution Emilie Møller Louise Rosenmeier Print Elbo Print A/S
GBP 5.00 DKK 90.00 DAnsK FAshion MAGAzinE sPRinG 2009 issuE 21
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Remix Collection. Perhaps because I am bald, I really like the idea of a helmet made out of hair. And the riding oufits consisting of a red jacket and white shirt – delivered a punch to the stomachs of boring, old hags everywhere. What might suit me, though, is jean//phillip’s dark visions featured on todays cover. I really look forward to seeing him develop as a designer. His message is clear and I love the idea of going to work dressed like an punk – with a dash of luxury. The energy of these collections symbolize the healthy need to stand out in the sea of Danish mediocity. Years of living in the safe cocoon of economic security have made us afraid to stand out, and the downturn will hopefully inspire both designers and consumers to take a stance both stylistically – and politically.
Take a stand and take care until the next round of Copenhagen Fashion Week in August. Editor-in-Chief Chris Pedersen
Relax - don’t panic We speak to the effortlessly relaxed Dries Van Noten And make plans to gatecrash Balmain’s elegantly trashy party
LiBERty Ross in Louis vuitton
PG. 04 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — News — — — — — — —
Foto: Thomas A.
Kasper Bjørke Danish DJ and producer Kasper Bjørke is a vital part of the Danish club scene, spinning his records at a number of cool venues. Apart from being part of the duo Tomboy, which just released a compilation of their best works to date, he is set to release a solo project on Plant Music soon. We asked him about his three favorite nightspots in Copenhagen.
Georg Jensen on WHEELS Good health, proximity to nature, and environmental sustainability are all integral parts of the Scandinavian lifestyle. All three are united in bicycling – which in Copenhagen is not just a favorite pastime, but an essential mode of transportation. As part of the global premier of its new Scandinavian Luxury Lifestyle store concept, Georg Jensen has launched WHEELS – a unique bicycle designed and produced in Denmark. The surface of the bicycle resembles the handmade surface of the silver hollowware pieces made by Georg Jensen himself 100 years ago. The bicycle is produced in a limited number and will be presented along with the new Georg Jensen Store Concept in the US, Australia, Taiwan and Denmark.
Photo tim walker, british vouge
Peter Jensen puts a spin on the classic suit Falbe is best known for its classic suits, but this season the Danish menswear brand has asked designer Peter Jensen to inject a splash of his humorous style into the collection. This Londonbased designer has gone through the archives of the historic company in search of unique details to put into a modern context. To Jensen, the fit has been the most important factor in his design process. ‘I have updated the silhouette by making it sharper and more modern,’ says Peter Jensen. DANSK Daily thinks this is a match made in heaven, so look out for the collection when it hits the shops this spring. — falbe.dk — peterjensen.co.uk
Tea is the new coffee Sing Tehus is one of the best places in Copenhagen to buy tea. The people behind this teahouse stock teas of the highest quality, and want to give the customers an experience they won’t forget. Stop by Sing Tehus and try one of the amazing aroma teas, or their excellent Japanese green tea. Sing Tehus, Skindergade 25, 1159 Copenhagen K
Handbag queens Danish accessories brand becksöndergaard copenhagen was founded by Lis Beck and Anna Søndergaard in 2003, with the aim to create timeless designs rooted in unpretentious Scandinavian design traditions, but with inspirations from international fashion trends. Today the brand is represented globally and the collection not only includes a unique selection of handmade eelskin accessories, but also leather bags, purses, belts, printed scarves, fine knitwear and jewelry. The AW09 collection is inspired by 1920s art deco with a healthy dose of humor and strong colors. ‘We try to create accessories that you grow even fonder of over time. We don’t believe in the buy-and-discard mentality – you might get tired of an item after some time, but the best thing is when you rediscover it in your closet after a while and feel like wearing it again. And that is only possible if you succeed in creating designs with personality,’ says the wellaccessorized duo. — becksondergaard.com
Geography Class The Future Mapping Company puts a fashion spin on the nerdy-boy-room-classic: the world map. The maps combine up-to-date data with a strong focus on design, creating cartography for the twenty-first century - geography never looked this sexy. — futuremaps.co.uk
1. Jolene I helped the owners of the bar set up their soundsystem back in the day, when they opened their bar in the original Nørrebro location. Since then, it has moved to the meatpacking district (Kødbyen, close to the central station). I have been going there regularly for drunken nights in the DJ booth with the other half of Tomboy, and alongside Djuna, Eif, Fredski, and others. Jolene has this amazing, loose vibe and energy, which reminds me of Reykjavik’s legendary Sirkus Bar but since it’s only two minutes from where I live, I have to admit it’s even better than Sirkus was! The interiors invite you to go nuts and jump on the couches. That and the friendly vibe of the staff are only two of the reasons why I have to put Jolene as number one on my top three list. 2. Vega Vega has been the main live venue in Copenhagen for years and years – and it’s also one of the best nightclubs in town. The international bookings are sharp, ranging from techno to post-disco, and there is a really great atmosphere, plus the building itself is an astonishing piece of architecture from the 1950s, designed by Vilhelm Lauritzen. I’m looking forward to spring with acts like Aeroplane, Holy Ghost, Miss Kittin and Yacht dropping by. And notice the bouncers - they look as mean as they’re supposed to, but are the coolest and most professional dudes I’ve ever come across in that particular line of business. 3: Ritz Despite the soundsystem’s shortcomings, the venue being too small, and the stickiness of the floor in the late hours, I have to say that Ritz is the new shit among Copenhagen bars. Since the WhoMadeWho Christmas party last year, I have been a fan of this ‘new’ Istedgade / red light district bar. It used to be a place where you would pick up hookers and buy drugs from behind the counter. Real ghetto. But now some kids have taken over the joint and turned it into a proper Berlinesque trash-bar with great DJ’s like the Tartelet crew, Kim Kemi and many more. This is where I go AFTER Jolene closes and BEFORE Dunkel Bar. The perfect (de) route for a classic hangover.
A Danish Force of Nature If you want to see one of the best things Danish fashion has to offer, then hit the shop Force of Nature for a closer look at the new collection by Hans Christian Madsen. HCM finished his Masters degree at Royal College of Art in London in 2007, receiving praise for his clean and intelligent designs, which captured the strong relations between clothes and body. After that, he helped create Diesel Black Gold, and most recently he has created a t-shirtcollection for Parisian fashion store Colette. For the collection sold in Force of Nature, Hans Christian Madsen has focused on the contrasts between different materials and a redefinition of shapes and silhouettes. The result is an interesting take on masculinity. — forceofnature.com
Casch Copenhagen changes name to Gróa After having concentrated on upgrading its design profile for the past few seasons, Casch Copenhagen has now changed ownership, and taken the new name Gróa., inspired by Norse Mythology. With new partners Gro and Nils, the label – busier than ever, especially in the United States – hopes to transform its design visions into even more coherent and sharp collections. Their AW09 collection is inspired by the hard/soft contrasts of oyster shells, and will by the looks of it take the company to a new level. — groa.dk
Easy shopping It’s getting easier and easier to shop at your favorite store. Fabulous vintage store FN92 offers a wide selection of products and theatrically customized showpieces in their new online shop. Eksempel, Gentlemen’s Affair and Won Hundred have also opened up for online shopping and are now only a click away from your closet. Happy shopping. — eksempel.com — gentlemensaffair.com — wonhundred.com — fn92shop.com
One little stylist had big issues dressing and wore a dress way too tight One little stylist got annoyed by the fit and died in a fashion cat fight
PG. 06 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Focus Living in a DAY Dream — By Kathrine Houe — — Although it has grown into quite a big business, DAY Home Collection started out as a fun side project. Today the interiors collection counts pillows, ceramics, scents, blankets, lamps and even a few pieces of furniture that together with the DAY Birger et Mikkelsen mens- and womenswear collections complete the DAY lifestyle universe. — — — — — —
Living in a DAY Dream
Coffee is served in big, black mugs as DANSK Daily stops by at DAY Birger et Mikkelsen’s cozy head offices at Kongens Nytorv in central Copenhagen to talk to Marianne Brandi about the birth and life of the Home Collection, which she heads. Marianne Brandi is married to Keld Mikkelsen – founder and creative director of successful Danish clothing company DAY Birger et Mikkelsen. Having worked with interior design for many years, Marianne joined her husband’s company a few years back as head of visual communication and the interior decoration of the label’s shops, showrooms and trade fair stands. But then, in 2005, a vacation to Morocco added a new perspective on the brand. ‘At the airport on my way back to Denmark, I saw two pillows that I simply couldn’t resist. And even though Keld thought I had already bought way too much stuff, I bought them. The pillows had the most beautiful stitching but the colors where awful, and when I got back to Copenhagen I had them made in black and white and ended up using them in our showrooms,’ Marianne reveals. The pillows got so popular that customers that visited the showrooms kept asking if they could order them, and Marianne ended up putting them into production. From that day on, the DAY Home Collection has just kept growing. ‘In the beginning I stood for everything that had to do with the Home collection. And for a while, people saw it as just a piece of entertainment for Keld’s wife. But then, when it actually started developing into a good business and I started hiring people who knew about interiors to assist me, everybody started to take me seriously,’ Marianne says, smiling.
Today the Home Collection consists of two different lines: home classic and home season. While the classic line boasts a wide selection of different products in blacks, whites and grays, the season line follows the trends in the fashion-seasons and contains a more restricted selection of different products in brighter and bolder colors. ‘The whole idea with the DAY Home collection is to dress your home after the seasons, just like you would with clothing. When winter is over you tuck away the woolen and dark fabrics and go for light and bright hues instead. In the beginning, I borrowed the color card from our clothing design team, but soon I realized that this was a bit too wild. Today we work with a separate color card for our interiors,’ Marianne explains. But even though the home collection has it’s own color card, the link between the label’s clothes and the Home Collection is very strong and a lot of work is put into making the idiom in the clothes and the interior design the same. Just like the DAY Birger et Mikkelsen clothing lines, the Home Collection is based on a mix between classic, ethnic and modern influences, and when Marianne is out looking for new inspiration she normally turns to the fashion world: ‘I borrow a lot from fashion. Fashion still moves much faster than interiors, and you always see the new tendencies much earlier there than you do in interiors. Not that fashion and interior design should be the exact same, but for DAY it makes sense that everything we produce contributes to the DAY universe – having both provides us with a kind of synergy. And as I work with seasonal collections and DAY is still mainly a fashion brand, it seems very natural to me to use the fashion world as a point of departure.’
PG. 08 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Focus Danish Design and Fashion — Words Mads Arlien Søborg — — Hear the words ’Danish design’ and the first thing that comes to mind is Arne Jacobsen and ’50s furniture design, an export associated with Denmark across the globe. Since then, fashion has taken the lead within Denmark’s creative industries. Yet furniture design is still alive and kicking, with new talents pushing the industry forward and making the similiarities between fashion and furniture design clearer than ever. — — — — — —
Danish design and fashion
PG. 09 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week SS09 Thursday 07.08.08 — Couples Silly Bee — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
years, the founders behind Muuto have succeeded in building a company others can only dream of.. Their recipe has really been rather simple: to combine smart business with great design. Founders Kristian Byrge and Peter Bonnen aren’t actually designers. They are business men with well developed eyes for design, but, equally importantly, they truly understand how to handle budgets, branding, and the media. They leave the creative aspect of the company to the designers, handpicking some of the most prominent members of the new Scandinavian design generation. But they don’t just leave it at that. Their concept is present in every single detail, from their web design to the packaging, which looks so great it gets placed right next to actual products in stores. Muuto isn’t the only company with this kind of thoroughgoing approach to design. HAY belongs to the same category of new, innovative design companies that have plunged into a difficult industry with confidence and brave ideas. HAY was founded by Rolf Hay and clothing label Bestseller in 2003, aiming to create innovative furniture design with respect for Danish design traditions from the ’50s and ’60s. A pioneer within the industry, Rolf Hay has from the very beginning tried to give Danish design a new face. Not only has he been using young and promising designers, he has also had the guts to try out new technologies and materials, while keeping prices reasonable. Since the golden age of Danish furniture design in the 1950s, wood has been the preferred material of Danish designers. In a certain sense, you could even say that the Danish design movement is rooted in a handcraft tradition that revolved around giving shape to wooden elements – in other words, carpenting skills. The same goes for Scandinavian design traditions in general and, as such, it should come as no surprise that many new Danish furniture designers still work with various kinds of wood as their material of choice. And this similarity, between furniture and fashion design, is no coincidence – they build on the same values and a similar visual language. ’We Do Wood’ shares this love for wood, and both founding members Sebastian Jørgensen and Henrik Thygesen are furniture carpenters – with an emphasis on the carpenter part. Since 2006, they’ve created a unique collection of furniture pieces and kitchens in wood. Traditional types of wood like ashtree, birch or beech, don’t figure in, however – rather, ’We Do Wood’ designs furniture with bamboo, which, besides being a strong and durable material, is also highly sustainable. To Jørgensen and Thygesen, not only form and function are important, but also environmental sustainability, and it is to this end they have introduced bamboo as a new material to Danish furniture design. At present, a new generation of Danish designers is developing a whole new form of expression, aiming to respectfully renew a set of long and proud traditions. As with fashion, there can be no doubt that Danish furniture design is entering a new period of greatness. And this similarity, between furniture and fashion design, is no coincidence – they build on the same values and a similar visual language.
louise campbell for hay
In years past, the fashion industry and its never-ending bouts of out-with-theold, in-with-the-new was frowned upon by furniture designers as superficial and fleeting. The purity in the design approach of furniture designers, they said, offered solutions to concrete problems and seemed the opposite of the fashion world’s obsession with temporary fads. Today, this dichotomy seems false, as there is much more that bridges these two worlds than separates them. Danish fashion has already proven that it is more than about fleeting fads and trends. The classic Nørgaard t-shirt is still an essential part of any teenager’s wardrobe – and it was designed in 1967, less than a decade after Jacobsen’s classic chairs ’the Swan’ and ’the Egg’.
Danish design is founded on long and proud traditions started in the 1950s by furniture pioneers Arne Jacobsen, Hans Wegner and Borge Mogensen. These furniture architects truly mastered their crafts, whether working with metals or wood and today, they personify Danish design, especially to international audiences, with their trademark qualities: clean lines, simple shapes and a functionalist sensibility. The works of these designers are timeless classics that still strike us as modern. They also have exhorbitant price tags. This exclusivity – and their status as upper class furniture - is a far cry from the original philosophy, however. The ideal for these designers was democracy rather than exclusivity, and they aimed to create pieces that ordinary people could afford, doing to the chair and table what Volkswagon did to the automobile. In other words, Jacobsen and Wegner designs shouldn’t be confined to bourgeois homes in affluent Copenhagen suburbs, but be attainable by everyone. Although this never came to be, it was an interesting concept, one that now seems to have been appropriated by Swedish furniture conglomerate IKEA, which has succesfully commercialized the idea of democratic design.
Just like Danish furniture design, the lion’s share of Danish fashion is built on the three principles mentioned before; simplicity, clean lines, and competent craftsmanship. Danish fashion designers and companies like Mads Nørgaard, Bruuns Bazaar, Sand, Matinique and Inwear all build on these qualities, and all are relatively affordable. In this last sense, Danish fashion conforms to the democratic ideals envisioned by the original Danish furniture designers – that everyone should be able to afford it. we do wood
In essence, Danish design traditions are built on a foundation of simplicity, functionality and craftsmanship. Looking at the new generation of Danish furniture designers, it is evident that these values are still fundamental to Danish design. Although shapes, materials and especially techniques have changed greatly over the decades, the same essential ideals pervade Danish design.
Danish fashion is currently experiencing the kind of international breakthrough that furniture designers experienced in the 1950s – and the reason for this success is not merely hype or temporary excitement, but a succesful recipe that combines functionality with affordability. Danish furniture design has given the Danish fashion industry these values. In the coming years, it will be important for the fashion companies to further develop their business savvy, while at the same time retaining these fundamental values.
Louise Campbell is one of contemporary Danish design’s most compelling talents. Whether within furniture, lighting or housing accessories, her work has combined tradition with innovation to revitalize Danish design for the twentythey aimed to create pieces that ordinary people could afford, doing to the chair and table what Volkswagon did to the automobile. first century. Take her Prince Chair for Hay, for instance, or her Lampen Collage Pendel for Louis Poulsen, and you can see a unique sense of shape, function and materials that is through-and-through modern. Another major contemporary Danish designer is Jacob Wagner. Last year he rose to the top of the international design world with a beautiful, simple table produced by the prestigious Italian company B&B Italia. Although internationalized and released on the Italian market, the same design principles – simplicity, functionality, and a mature sense of materials – guide Wagner’s process.
Not only have individual designers managed to demonstrate the contemporary relevance of these essential values. More and more design companies have managed to bridge tradition and renewal, one of these being Muuto. In just a few
jacob wagner for b&b italia
PG. 10 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 Didder — Fashion Flashbacks An Extravagant Designer with Fierce Hair — Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen — — Ivan Grundahl has been one of the most festive features in Didder Rønlund’s amazing fashion life. — — — — —
An Extravagant Designer with Fierce Hair Didder Rønlund has been in the business for more than 60 years. Working as a journalist for Dagens Nyheder, BT, Billed Bladet and, lastly, Danish Fashion Institute, she has always been writing about fashion. She has met Estée Lauder, Coco Chanel and her successor Karl Lagerfeld, and basically all the important players in the Danish fashion world. When asked to tell a fun story from her days in the Danish fashion world, one person comes to mind. ‘A festive experience in Danish fashion? That’s a clever question to ask an old lady like me. It’s obvious that there have been many in the more than 65 years of non-stop activities I’ve experienced in the media world. But meeting Ivan Grundahl, then still a student at The School of Decorative Art in Copenhagen in the late sixties, was definitely a highlight. At the time, you see, he frequented BT’s fashion desk, and with his fierce green hair and pierced ears, he was always drawing attention to both his charming persona and original ideas. Ivan’s green hair might, as the most natural thing in the world, be replaced with a flaming orange hue the next time he showed up. But young Ivan’s extravagant, amusing features in the fashion world remained steady, despite the frequently alternating hair colors. And they still do,’ says Didder Rønlund. Ivan Grundahl is well-known for his cool, avant-garde and international designs with asymmetrical lines and uneven silhouettes. He is a regular at Copenhagen Fashion Week every season, and this week his show will be held at the Gallery Show Scene at Forum. ‘I have observed and reviewed Mr. Grundahl with delight ever since he opened his first store. The first many years of my career, I would be seated at very ordinary shows. But not when Ivan was showing his collections, where we got a real show worth all the money, as he dispatched his beautiful, long-legged divas in celebration and drama of deconstruction, inspired by Yamamoto, Commes des Garcons and co., translated into Danish. Ivan’s parachute silk and cotton gauze kept hitting home with both the lively and the intellectual consumers,’ says Didder Rønlund and ends, ‘drama is seriously aroused when army boots or sneakers peek out from underneath the layered banquet garbs and hats as big as mill wheels – outfits that would make even a Queen Margrethe disappear.’
The green hair might, as the most natural thing in the world, be replaced with a flaming orange hue the next time he showed up.
Editor’s Eye —
— — Sara Sievers is the newly appointed Editor-in-Chief of Cover magazine. Here she picks ut her favorite Scandinavian fashion brands. — — — — — — — —
The Local Firm Yet another young and hip brand for men and women that renews and refines Scandinavian design traditions to come out of Sweden. The Local Firm is raw and urban, inspired by art and architecture from the old Eastern Bloc. I predict that we’ll see more from The Local Firm, because of their rich frame of references. And their raw, communistinspired designs seem exactly what we need in the current financial doldrums - people just aren’t going to want ‘pretty, pampered, precious’ anymore. thelocalfirm.com
Rodebjer Designer Carin Rodebjer is a well-established name in Swedish fasion, but she has yet to break through here in Denmark. Here’s hoping that will change, because Rodebjer’s simple, elegant and most of all feminine silhouettes will appeal to women interested in timeless design and fashion rather than passing fads. rodebjerg.se
Sandra Backlund Designer Sandra Backlund belongs in the avant-garde end of the design scale, and every sculptural, knittet design to come out of her hands is a true work of art. Backlund is already big in the international world of fashion, having worked for Louis Vuitton and counting Italian Vogue’s Editor-inChief, Franca Sozzani, as one of her fans. sandrabacklund.com
PG. 12 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Focus Keeping Fashion Hot — Words Chris Pedersen — — In the world of luxury goods, fur is the glamorous icing on the cake, and not only is Denmark one of the leading suppliers of fur, Danish designers are also in the forefront when it comes to keeping the material relevant to modern urban customers. And with a new label guaranteeing animal welfare, Danish fur has become even more desirable. — — — — — —
Keeping Fashion Hot
toklum in collaboration with kopenhagen fur
christian westphal in collaboration with kopenhagen fur
In recent years, Danish designers like Baum und Pferdgarten, Julie Fagerholt and Christian Westphal have excelled in reinterpreting fur for their collections. Rikke Baumgarten refers to it as the ’glamorous icing on the cake’ when it comes to creating a fashion statement, simply because it oozes history, craftsmanship and luxury. And looking at contemporary Danish fur design, it’s clear that we’ve come a long way since the vulgar, flaunt-as-much-fur-as-possible designs of the 1980s, when the material was all about showing off wealth - like a nouveau riche oligarch dying to receive a jealous gaze. Danish designers are now looking at fur in new and innovative ways. Baum und Pferdgarten and Peter Ingversen for Noir continue to experiment with sporty and rock’n’roll inspired shapes for the urban customer, and for menswear designer Christian Westphal it has been important to look at the shaping of fur with a new set of eyes. ’I want to create a look that’s masculine, sharp, young and easy to wear,’ says Westphal about his fur designs launching this season. One of the reasons why fur has become so popular in Danish fashion is ’Den Gyldne Pelsnål’ (The Golden Fur Needle) - a yearly competition for which Kopenhagen Fur invites young progressive designers to experiment with – and hopefully reinvent- the use of fur in fashion design. Baum und Pferdgarten and Christian Westphal have both participated, and so has Ole Yde, Hans Christian Madsen, Femmes Regionales and Julie Fagerholt - developing the participating designers’ know-how about the craftsmanship and industry behind fur production. This year marked the 10-year anniversary of the competition, and according to fashion editor Eva Helmbæk who selects the participants, fur will continue to be a big part of Danish Fashion both in the actual clothing design, but also when it comes to accessories such as hats, bags and shoes. But you can’t really discuss fur design without mentioning the ethics of producing it. The fur industry is one of the most controversial parts of the international world of high fashion. Legend has it that the queen bee of the fashion industry, editor-in-chief
‘New luxury’ is about ‘the ability to enjoy things that haven’t had a destructive impact on the planet or on other people’ Ford said, and to that end, the Origin Assured label was launched.
baum und pferdgarten in collaboration with saga fur
Kopenhagen Fur invites young progressive designers to experiment with – and hopefully reinvent – the use of fur in fashion design. of American Vogue Anna Wintour, was once served a dead raccoon on her lunch plate by a member of PETA, and not a season goes by without a ’surprise-attack’ by protestors storming the catwalks of international designers with a love of fur. These controversies make it more relevant than ever to figure out a way to make the breeding of fur more animal-friendly and ethical, a goal that designer Tom Ford spoke about at the International Herald Tribune’s Supreme Luxury 2007 conference in Moscow.
The Origin Assured label guarantees that the fur or fur-product a consumer purchases comes from a country where regulations or standards governing fur production are in force. Origin Assured joined with an experienced international monitoring agency to establish an independent verification program and enforce that the mark is used correctly. Among the fur auction houses participating in the program are the two biggest Danish auction houses Kopenhagen Fur and Saga Fur. Both are currently among the only four organizations permitted to distribute the labels and hangtags with the OA mark, though more will join in the future as the program develops. PROUD SPONSOR OF
In other words, buying Danish fur is not only a testimony of taste, but also a way to make sure that the animals used in the production have lived the best life possible. originassured.com KOPENHAGENFUR.COM
PG. 14 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 NN07 — Scandinavian Talent Across Borders — Words Kathrine Houe — — Fashion is far from recession-proof, but up-and-coming menswear brand NN07 seems to have found the fast track to success in a difficult industry where only the best newcomers are taken seriously. The key words are quality, originality and modern classics. — — — — —
MAG*S MAGASIN RUSKINDSJAKKE 1.500,TOPSHOP TANKTOP 79,FILIPPA K SILKENEDERDEL 1.100,-
NN07 is short for No Nationality 2007, which is a one of the statements defining the brand. The atmosphere that greets you when entering the offices of menswear label NN07 is delightfully free of fashion snobbery. Instead it’s bit like popping by a friend’s office for a quick chat and a cup of coffee. Victor Lindh, director of marketing, sales and design and one of the founders of NN07, sits with CEO Tommy Holte in an office space filled with stack upon stack of clothes from their latest collection, looking at some drawings of the new NN07 flagship store. It wasn’t more than two years ago that Victor Lindh and Ulrik Pedersen, who is responsible for production and design, decided to leave their safe jobs at well-established Bruuns Bazaar to take the risk of starting their own company - a decision that proved to be right. ‘Everything has happened at an extremely fast pace since we started the company back in June 2007. As soon as we decided to start NN07, we made a brand book in which we explained what we stood for, and also, maybe even more importantly, what we did not stand for,’ explains Victor and continues: ‘It was very important right from the beginning to define what - and who - we did not want to be. A lot of new brands start out by claiming they want to be the new Acne or the new Levis. For us it was the opposite. We wanted to be original. That was and still is the most important thing for us. Everything we do, we do because we believe in it 100 percent.’
NN07 is short for No Nationality 2007, which is one of the statements defining the brand. Victor is Swedish, the rest of the team is Danish but none of them wants to be placed into a specific national box. The team has from the very beginning seen the whole of Scandinavia as their home market, and had agents in all three Scandinavian countries – Denmark, Sweden, Norway - from the first collection, SS08. At that time the final goal was to find 140 shops to stock NN07 in Scandinavia; today the number has already reached 160. This month, NN07 will be opening their own flagship stores at department store Magasin in Copenhagen and in Oslo, Norway. Gradually, NN07 is also opening up for stores outside Scandinavia.
Forårets korte jakker er alt, du drømmer om: taljerede eller a-formede, med ¾- eller lange ærmer og i de blødeste, eksklusive materialer som skind, ruskind og jacquard med og uden print. Hvilken jakke er din favorit?
So what’s the secret behind the success? When you compare NN07’s collections you will never see major changes. NN07’s design is based on the modern classics, and T-shirts, shirts, chinos, jackets and knitted sweaters are all stated with a simple but exclusive look where quality always has the main priority. Some styles will be part of the collection season after season simply because the NN07 team loves them. ‘We don’t try to make our designs preppy. Instead we always seek a classic and intellectual feeling. We want our design to be so timeless that a man can keep his clothes from NN07 for at least the next ten years,’ Victor ends. nn07.com
Forbehold for trykfejl.
To stay original, the guys behind NN07 always try to add a special feature to everything – including all catalogs. For the AW08 collection, they had an artist create 600 handmade paintings, which were later cut into pieces to serve as catalog covers, each one unique. And for SS09 the cover of every catalog will feature a unique handprint collected from people from all over the world - which actually leads us to the name of the label.
The Puppet Master
PG. 16 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 Signe Fabricius — Profile The Puppet Master — Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen — — With more than 200 shows under her belt, choreographer Signe Fabricius is the woman behind a lot of the shows that makes you sigh with satisfaction — — — — — —
I’m the person with the headset saying ‘go’ backstage.
Designers Remix, Rützou, Baum und Pferdgarten, Sand, Cph Vision and CIFF. Choreographer Signe Fabricius has been behind all these runway shows and many, many more. With more than 200 shows under her belt, she’s been one of the main coordinators and choreographers of Copenhagen Fashion Week since debuting with Munthe plus Simonsen’s first show at Forum in 1998. ‘My role in a fashion show is to make everything run smoothly during rehearsals and when the show is taking off. I create and develop a show’s concept, and some years I stand for the choreography, which I base on the location’s scenography, lighting, and the show’s music. I also teach the models the choreography, working closely with the DJ and lighting guys. I’m also the person with the headset saying ‘go’ backstage. My job can involve basically everything except make-up, hair and styling, Signe Fabricius explains. During fashion week, Signe Fabricius is typically in charge of the choreography for two or three shows a day. This week she is choreographing the CIFF and Designers Remix shows, among others. ‘It’s a lot of work and really intense. And when I start preparing a show, my math skills suddenly come in handy. I figure out how long the catwalk is, how many models are in the show, and how many minutes the show is supposed to be. The music is also very important to set the right mood at the event. A perfect show is a mix of math and creativity,’ says Signe Fabricius, who ultimately is always focused on the visibility of the clothes. ‘Good choreography is when the audience can see the clothes from both the front and back. Each model needs to be on the runway for at least 30 seconds for the audience to get a proper impression of the clothes. Good choreography should also be seamless – the audience shouldn’t be distracted by it, or really think of it as ‘choreography’, but rather focus on the works of the designer,’ explains Signe Fabricius, who usually has about an hour to prepare the models before a show starts. But how does she manage to make so many shows appear so different? ‘I’m always inspired by the designers and the producers behind the shows - this season, Style Counsel and Femmes Regionales. Mostly they have a clear idea of what they want, and then we collaborate on making the best show possible according to that vision. When I see the clothes, the location, and the models, my mind starts to play with ideas of what would make a great show. Last season, I choreographed the Designers Remix show, which initially was going to be held in a small cage at Copenhagen Zoo. But when we got to the location and saw the elephant house, another, larger venue at the zoo, we decided to change location because it looked so stunning,’ says Signe Fabricius. When Signe Fabricius is not doing fashion shows, she works with theater, movies and TV. These media also provide inspiration for the fashion shows. ‘I often draw upon experiences from the theater, and its scenography, lighting and dramatic atmosphere. In the theater you always want to create a certain mood, which is also essential at a fashion show. The great thing about the fashion world is that you have to work really fast, whereas in the world of theater, you get to use months working on the same play. Both work well for me. I still get a kick whenever a show starts, and I love the atmosphere backstage. The day I don’t feel that way anymore, I’ll stop doing the shows,’ concludes Signe Fabricius.
PG. 18 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Backstage Beauty — Photo by Oliver Katibi Stalmans — — — — — — — —
NN07_DanskDaily uppsl.indd 1
PG. 22 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Backstage — Words Chris Pedersen Photo Emil T. Schmidt & Rasmus Brøndsted, Made in School — — — — — — — — — —
PG. 23 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show Moonspoon Saloon — Words Kathrine Houe Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Artsy fashion march
I’m Spinning Around The Cyclus
The Fantabolous Bicycle Music Factory
The Human Laundry
I have two pet hates: Mimes with white gloves, and fashion shows that try to convey an ‘artistic’ sensibility, whether it be with dancing models, singing models or ’funny’ venues. Only a very few designers are able to add actual value to their design by staging their collection theatrically, and most attempts seem to land flat on their asses, revealing the designer’s pretentiousness rather than design merit. But one Danish designer stands out as benefiting from a certain dose of theatrics - and that is Henrik Vibskov. His shows have left me breathless on several occasions, not just because of the rich fantasy his design reveals, but also because of the way he uses the catwalk creatively to explain the ideas behind his collection. A few seasons ago, his installation ‘The Fantabulous Bicycle Music Factory’, showcased his aesthetic’s rich accumulation of design history, both in fashion and folkloric clothing. Another installation of his, ’the Cyclus’ showed how humans are deeply dependent on each other no matter what happens. Last night, Vibskov showed ’The Human Laundry collection’ after our deadline, but the designer kindly let us have sneak peak on the show’s monochromatic tubular installations. It was designed to create the optical illusion of ‘Spinning the Models’, and we are quite sure that the spectators had a nice, warm spin around the creative mind of Henrik Vibskov. See danskdaily.dk tomorrow for the show review
The Tent City
While a lot of the Danish fashion houses show simple and wearable clothes, there was nothing even remotely minimalist about the artsy, playful and, for some people, maybe too funny AW09 collection of Moonspoon Saloon. Angry drum beats from female drummer Carla Azar set the show called March in motion, starting out with a fluffy knitted dress combined with black make up covering the lower half the model’s face, in the semblance of a shiny mouth-gag. Continuing with a cocoon-shaped black jacket with plastic fringes, guys in oversize printed t-shirts, a few multi-colored fur jackets, clown-styled stripy jumpsuits, patterned dresses, and huge tube-shaped paper hats, the collection showcased a hodgepodge of styles in a wide color palette. Moonspoon Saloon is definitely not a brand that considers the financial crisis a reason to go commercial. But who wouldn’t expect a little weirdness from a label designed and owned by a stylist, an artist, a photographer and a designer – all with their own unique styles and approaches. The limited edition label, which, somewhat theatrically, plans to close with a bang upon the release of its 99th style, does seem more like an art project than a clothing line. Yet among the artsy styles a few wearable pieces stood out as something that could easily appeal to a crowd that dares to try out new stuff, including a short dark red jumpsuit with short legs, a beautiful black and white outfit, and a black a-line jacket with wooden beads at the neckline. Refreshingly different and quite entertaining.
PG. 24 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show Ivan Grundahl — Words Kathrine Houe Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — —
If there is one Danish designer who has enough personal style and years of experience to carry the title iconic Danish designer, it would have to be Ivan Grundahl. And with the usual seating chaos in the tent outside Gallery, the scene was set for another one of Ivan’s popular shows. Starting out with black pants and big hats, it was immediately apparent that Ivan is still the same, and as he rolled out the new collection’s styles, the size of dresses and hats kept widening. Oversized yet short black jackets, loose but still well-fitted pants, long dresses with tight waists and wide skirts all in colors counting black, white, grey, reds and light green. The tie-dyed fabrics going from black to beige and dark green to grey were truly stunning, as were the extreme mixes of materials counting lace, plastic, sequins, leather and cotton all used in one skirt and one full dress. With the multiple layers, see-through effects, coarse textiles and beautiful draping, the models resembled a cool and luxurious version of the traditional vagabond, underlined by huge, messy hair. Some complain that Grundahl keeps repeating himself, but at least he is repeating his own designs, and with his faithful crowd of followers, why should he fix something that’s not broken?
Showroom Kronprinsessegade 4, 1306 Copenhagen K / Press +45 25514699 Sales Femme: +4525513661, Homme: +45 41641398 / +45 25514971
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PG. 26 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show Stine Goya — Words Kathrine Houe Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — —
PG. 27 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show Soulland — Words Helle Rohde and Mathias Vestergaard Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — —
Modern Horror Grandpa
Sparkling Rock Cabaret
Where a touch of sexy chic seemed to be the missing link to complete Stine Goya’s past collections, it was a whole other story when she presented her fifth and latest collection The Black Spectacle at an over-packed Gallery Show Scene late Thursday night. With a refreshing ability to renew herself without losing her personal style, Goya captivated the spectators with a playful and cabaret-inspired show, featuring girls on swings, live songs by Henrik Hall, and a great hair and make up look that vamped up the girls to the max. After a spring collection done almost entirely in pastels and grays and with a good amount of prints, the new palette counted mostly black with sparks of shiny bronze, wine red, grey and dark purple, the few prints all rather subtle. Instead, artificial stones gave a lot of the items an appealing sparkle. Shapes were still sculptural and accentuated shoulders and waists, with less oversize styles and a tighter silhouette resulting in a more grownup and refined expression than previous collections. Highlights counted several pairs of tights decorated with the sparkling stones, cropped tuxedo-inspired blazers, washed silk dresses with round sculptured shoulders and cape effects, loose leather pants and several versions of the little black dress that would do well at most cocktail parties. All in all it the collection was dominated by a dramatic rocking cabaret edge that was new for Stine Goya but seemed to fit her well.
The scene was set for a bash on Thursday night when Soulland presented its new show “Savage Mountain’. Located in the raw and industrial Carlsberg Brewery buildings, and with a mountain placed in the center of the catwalk, expectations almost peaked before the show. The first outfit had a cozy look in nude colors, with chinos teamed up with a knitted cardigan. This classic grandpa look was contrasted by the models’ scull painted faces, which left an ambivalent impression of coziness and horror. Basic and wearable items like knitwear, shirts and waistcoats in both bright and pale colors dominated the look. More experimental pieces like knitted pants and a jumpsuit in green gave this increasingly popular streetwear label some extra edge and grit. The overall impression didn’t move mountains, but Soulland still presented a good and varied show with a solid and wearable interpretation of the grandpa look.
PG. 28 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show jean//phillip — Words Mathias Vestergaard Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — — — — — — —
Will the Boys Dare?
Much like entering the Rick Owens store in TriBeCa, N.Y., the guests at jean//phillip’s exclusive show were greeted with the deep rhythms of warm and glitchy minimal techno, setting the mood for a no-nonsense show. While continuing his established aesthetics and sticking to some of his signature looks, designer Jean Phillip delivered an incredibly sharp and balanced collection. Combining shiny patent leather shoes and heavier boots with bondage belts and transparent tops, the overall look was both dark and dandy. Boys will have to show some courage to wear jean//phillip’s rather bold pieces on the street. The masculine corsets – a repeated item in the show -- could easily be layered with a sharp white shirt under a tight fitting jacket, however, as a unique vest alternative. The collection’s old-school forward-pleated sweatpants – repeated from last season – seemed more appropriate now, and while a gorgeous black-and-white checkered set stood out as a more classic outfit, it was still in line with the sober mood of the show. With an extremely sharp vision, a showroom examination will reveal if the production quality has matured and lives up to the designer’s obviously high goals. However, there is no doubt that this is a strong collection, and judging from its overall mood, little extra pockets, and sharply cut shoulders, it will definitely appeal to a dedicated crowd.
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PG. 30 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show bARBARA I gONGINI — Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — —
PG. 31 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show By Malene Birger — Words Kathrine Houe Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — —
An Edgy Kind of Coco
No one can put bARBARA I gONGINI’s originality in doubt. To get a model wearing a huge black and white tulle dress to sink into a bathtub filled with water onstage is an event no other designer has orchestrated this fashion week – or ever, perhaps. Just like no other designer has made a collection that mixes artistry and functionality to such great effect. The artistry showed in the imaginative tulle dresses, jackets too deconstructed and difficult to wear for everyday usage, and an oversized, robe-like sweater-jacket. Functional were gONGINI’s range of jumpsuits with and without sleeves, simple, heavy knitwear, and delicate shirts with layered shoulders. Black dominated, with additions of gray, fluorescent yellow, pink, and shiny gold on cool flat black patent leather shoes. Hats off to bARBARA I gONGINI for putting her artistic talent into her clothes. It made for some really unique pieces, which, combined with a number of garments that would fit into a more conventional wardrobe, made this collection shine.
With a simpler sophistication, though still true to her DNA, Danish designer Malene Birger edged her style up a notch when she presented her AW09 collection on the biggest and most impressive catwalk seen this week. As the press release said, inspiration was taken from Coco Chanel, and even though a few pieces were very close to Coco, most of them had a personal Malene Birger twist, adding power and edge to the lady-like look. With sharp, pointy-shouldered jackets and dresses, sleeveless fur vests, asymmetrical dresses in both tight and loose versions, cool smoking pants with a low crotch and a great selection of kneelength skirts, detailed shirts and short jackets, the show assembled ladies ready to rock. Black was joined by only a few entrances in camel, dusty blue, powder, gray and bronze, and instead of a color hodgepodge, materials such as leather, fur, satin, lace, sequins and velours were mixed and used to emphasize shapes and details. The Salon collection was restricted to black only, and, right from the beginning, a tight full-length skirt in PVC made it clear that this line also had an edgy twist to it. Only one or two of the dresses were so grandiose that they would make a woman feel overdressed at a cocktail party, while the rest were sexy and detailed interpretations of the oh-so-famous little black dress - mixed with a fantastic ’80s inspired power fur coat, a few well fitted suits and a pair of sequin pants so wide that it could make even the most flamboyant ’70s disco dancer jealous. The only shame was the attention stolen by some of the accessories, distracting from the great details of the clothes.
PG. 32 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show Cheap Monday — Words Helle Rohde and Mathias Vestergaard Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — —
Cheap Monday brought the recession out in the open by opening their show yesterday with models wearing bags, hats, ties and even guitars made out of cardboard. A refreshing and humorous take on the much-debated financial crisis. The recession feel was underlined with trashed and torn jeans that looked as if they had just been repaired with pieces of gaffer tape. The color chart was in dark, rusty hues and oily blues – a suitable and safe choice for the A/W season. Boyfriend fitted blazers and oversized cape coats teamed up with tight, cropped jeans was for the girls. The boys’ look was loose and antifit with big coats, knitwear and chinos. Although one could have hoped for a little more renewal, Cheap Monday still faced the facts of the crisis and presented a recession concept with jest and humor.
— Show Noblesse — Words Stinne Jensen — — — — — — — — — — — — —
With Copenhagen gay icons Fagget Fairies in charge of the music and models with sleek hairstyles fiercely strutting down the runway, Birgitte Herskind’s first show with new label Noblesse was speckled with delicious lesbian references. New, rocked-up takes on classics like formal skirts with zippers and straps, and men’s jackets, were mixed with sophisticated silk dresses and shirts in coral and peach, giving the otherwise black, white and gray palette some color. Herskind’s attempt to rethink these classics truly succeeded in her fittet, sleeveless jackets and cool zipper-dresses. And by using a lot of sequins – both as embellishment on shoulders and fullblown as the material in dresses and skirts - the somewhat plain clothes got a sparkly kick of glam. Cursed with some initial hiccups after which the show had to start over, the collection offered a little bit of everything for the girl looking for clothes to express her personality, whether sassy, sexy or classy.
A u t u m n W i n t e r 2 0 0 9 C o l l e C t i o n · P r e v i e W i n g At G a l l e r y I n t e r n at I o n a l Fa s h I o n Fa I r , s ta n d 4 5 · P r e s s C o n tA C t P r e s s @ d Ay. d k ConCePt store · Pilestræde 16 1112 CoPenhAgen w w w. d ay. d k
PG. 34 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show AnnHagen — Words Mathias Vestergaard Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — —
PG. 35 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09
A Luxury Take on AnnHagen
Last night we witnessed the debut collection of Jørgen Simonsen as AnnHagen’s new designer, after the departure of Diana Opsund Bay. It is always interesting to see what happens when a brand with a distinct design profile gets a new designer. While AnnHagen has been all about bondage, dark rock, goth and deconstruction, mr. Simonsen is associated with luxury and couture. A slightly deconstructed blue cocktail dress and the bondage belts and straps on the back of some nicely tailored men’s coats and leather jackets, provided a link to Annhagen as we know it. Moving on from this heritage, Simonsen had added padding on hips and shoulders, sculpting the collection’s simple black dresses and beautiful doublebreasted female office suits. Maintaining the padded effect and restructuring, Simonsen ventured into everything from glam-rock to kimonos, with large bows on the back. Everything was beautifully cut, tailored and fitted, and although some pieces seemed a bit off, the overall impression was a new statement of beauty and elegance, cemented by a short, sexy tube dress with asymmetrical patches of fur, and a range of long evening dresses. This might not please fans of the original, moodier AnnHagen style, but for someone dressing celebrities for the red carpet, this collection had everything. If only Danish celebrities would dare to go there.
PG. 36 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show Wood Wood — Words Stinne Jensen Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — —
Julie Sandlau Collection Presentation CPH Fashion Week 5th - 8th Feb. 2009
He used to be a skater boy
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Wood Wood is known for alternative show venues, often with chaotic seating plans, and Friday was no different. A lot of guests in a very small space left little legroom for the models (and pushed the schedule), but also made the show more intimate. The girls’ collection sported boyfriend wardrobe styles with large, blue shirts, checkered grunge shirts and chinos, and a more feminine range of nineties chic styles with high-waisted leather skirts and shoulder-heavy knit sweaters. The well-fitted girls’ denim referenced nineties glam with slim legs, high waistlines and nicely placed back pockets. Among the more sexy styles were a pair of worker pantsuits and knit dresses, with zippers down the back adding a sassy detail. The girls’ clothes should appeal to girls who don’t need a lot of details to feel and look sexy, but for those who crave a little embellishment they might be too basic. Boys’ denim, consisting of old-school blue jeans and jackets with wornout patches and big pockets, was inspired by Japanese workwear, and was even produced there. Shirts, sweaters and t-shirts were all inspired by a sporty street style with a sophisticated edge, though without loosing the cozy feel Wood Wood is know for.
Groennegade 10, 1st floor • DK - 1107 Copenhagen K. Shop online : www.juliesandlau.com
It seems the skater boy has pulled up his pants and ironed his shirt. Wood Wood is aiming for an older audience.
PG. 38 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Show Vila — Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen Photo Sacha Maric — — — — — — —
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Cut the Candy Floss
When the light turned on after the show, four bartenders jumped out from behind the runway to start the party. Vila has entered fashion week, and they did well. The majority of Vila’s styling was rather minimalist, mixing femininity and edginess in girly dresses matched with skinny jeans and leather and cotton leggings. Standing out were the knits, longer in the front than the back, and oversized pieces with braided details on the sleeves, oozing a casual and comfy feeling. Vila also showed their sweeter side with a chiffon layer cake dress, a tube-top dress with a balloon skirt, and a lace number all in pinkish shades, screaming candy floss – though perhaps too much. The laces worked much better in black, used on a short fitted jacket mixed with jeans and a t-shirt. Keeping in mind how big a collection Vila has to choose from, they managed to select a range of clothes that was pulled together, but still showed the broad range of styles coming from an all-round company.
This week proved that no financial crisis can prevent us from celebrating fashion, in all its flamboyant, functional, artsy and theatrical variations. The shows, parties, performances and, most importantly, clothes of this fashion week proved that Copenhagen can still deliver. See you in August for a hot summer sartorial extravaganza.
photo by oliver katibi stalmans
PG. 40 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Very Important Princesses — Photo Emil T. Schmidt and Rasmus Brøndsted / Made in School — — Thursday evening, Mads Nørgaard gathered a crowd for his event at DR’s new concert hall, continuing his close collaboration with the Copenhagen music scene with a special performance by When Saints Go Machine. — — — — — — — — —
PG. 41 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09
Henrik Ralph Nielsen, partner in Seven Youngsters, has something in his pocket.
Nanna Rosenfeldt-Olsen studies fashion in Kolding, and was out with Jong Pang singer Tine Winther
When Saints Go Machine were in the spotlight. Live Berg Olsen, event manager, was also at the Nørgaard event.
Truls Blaasmo, does web graphics for Samsøe&Samsøe and adores cartoonish bowties
Musician Nina Hemicke almost stepped on a beer bottle
— Very Important Princesses — Photo Emil T. Schmidt and Rasmus Brøndsted / Made in School — — Copenhagen-based womenswear label Spon Diogo hosted a swanky event in the stylish black surroundings of Paris-Texas on Thursday afternoon. — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — Designer Peter Jansson matched — his surroundings — — — — — — — — Spon Diogo owners Mia Lisa Spon and Rui Andersen Rodrigues — looked happy and stylish at their own event — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Student Charlie Thomsen’s white stilettos underscored her otherwise black-on-black look
Buyer Elinor Nystedt wore a soft winter scarf
Fashion dude Tom Steifel joined Ouafa Mouna, freelance PR., for a drink
Diogo Copenhagen nightlife icon Rune of Wonderland looked fabulous with his happy homo grandpa look. Cheers!
Fireball director Anthony Aconis provided the event with a splash of color
Jens Brønum Johansen, graphic designer, looked ferocious.
Public display of affection: Mads and wife.
Kristensen du Nord designer Grith Gerner removed her gloves next to Henrik Waldorff Thoudal, freelance stylist and designer.
Jan Bringø Bachmann, graphic designer from SHFT, enjoys a winter hug with Ditte Bringø Bachmann from Artrebels/Fashion.
Trendcaster Rasmus Philip Jensen looked buff and tough
PG. 43 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Look of the Day AnnHagen — Words Stinne Jensen Photo Oliver Katibi Stalmans — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —At first glance, the AnnHagen models recalled fifties housewives with perfect hair and impeccable make up, but upon closer examination, the classic chignons were torn and teased, and the black eyeliner more rock’n roll than regular.
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The simple yet strong make up, using only black, red and white with sophisticated up-does, gave the girls a sexy power-look worth copying. A new twist was the contradiction of heavy powdered brows paired with generous amounts of white shine on cheekbones and forehead - but it worked! ‘The idea was to create a variation on the fifties black eyeliner, with some models wearing a lot more make up that others. It’s almost like three or four looks in one show – from Hollywood diva to punk chic,’ says Uffe Buchard, creative director of the show.
Laetitia Casta, Douzen Kroes, Noemie Lenoir
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PG. 45 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — Removing the Velvet Glove We are the Champions — Words Susanne Madsen — — Self-applause is rife in Danish fashion. But is it actually doing the industry a huge disservice? — — — — — —
We’re really good at telling each other how amazing we are and presenting this hunky-dory facade
Unless we get critical, we’ll end up being the only ones who think we’re cool.
We are the Champions? They say fashion is full of bitchiness, backstabbing and all-round rudeness. And you know; they’re generally absolutely right. But it’s also rampant with sycophants – and an Alaïawearing cast to rival that of The Emperor’s New Clothes: people so terrified of falling out of grace with the inner sanctum they’ll never admit a collection was anything but ‘amazing, gorge, loved it!’ They convince each other to believe the hype, terrified a bad word will jeopardize future business – or their own celebrity. Danish fashion isn’t exempt from this sort of self-applause, either. The designer Stine Goya has noted how she’d prefer honesty over flattery (‘It’s the only way the label Stine Goya can grow’), but she’s one of the few to say so. As a writer, you’re really not supposed to say that the core of the Danish premium middle-market designers – the designers that form the very basis of CFW – produce an abundance of quality, reasonably on-trend clothes that also happen to be quite similar if you remove the smoke and show mirrors. You’re not supposed to talk about that, silly. Otherwise Copenhagen will never become the fifth fashion capital. Like, duh. We’re really good at telling each other how amazing we are and presenting this hunky-dory facade, but we have to learn to call a spade a spade.
APPLIED PROJECTS A VISUAL AGENCY
‘We’re really good at telling each other how amazing we are and presenting this hunky-dory facade, but we have to learn to call a spade a spade and be honest about what we’re good at, accept criticism and build on our strengths unless we want to stagnate,’ a source in the industry says, adding: ‘We’ll never be the fifth fashion capital, but we can hopefully become a major fashion week for the premium middle-market.’ Granted, there’s nothing wrong with a dose of healthy nationalistic team spirit. But fashion is like horse riding: you school your dressage champion with a balance of carrots and sticks. (Sticks being figuratively speaking, before this piece ends up pissing off the Danish fashion industry and the world’s animal welfare groups.) Now, carrots are all very well, but eventually your sweet intentions will leave you with an unruly tubby-tubster, forever destined to compete at elementary dressage level. Assuming Danish fashion doesn’t want to continue competing at elementary level, what can be done about this sugar-coated pretence – and what’s to blame for it? According to most of the people interviewed here, it has to do with the way the industry is configured. (This, coincidentally, is also the reason the majority of them don’t wish to be named.) A source says: ‘The Danish fashion industry is steeped in conflicts of interests, where you
have ‘opposing’ organisations working together. Danish fashion can’t progress as long as we’re in someone’s pocket.’ Another factor is the very democratic, inclusive show schedule. A source says: ‘In Denmark you’re brought up to think everyone’s equal. I’m sorry, but who came up with that idea? We’re spoilt and coddled – and we think the world owes us everything. If McQueen has a show, we should have a show. There’s no filter. I mean, ECCO shoes show during a fashion week that’s trying to gain international respect.’ It’s of course all very easy for a fashion writer to ride in from London on her high Hermèssaddled horse and start criticising Danish fashion because it’s not exactly like the Paris show schedule she’s become accustomed to. But even when you assess Danish fashion on its own parameters it’s evident it needs a little editing. In the words of a source: ‘Unless we get critical, we’ll end up being the only ones who think we’re cool.’ On a similar note, an international source says: ‘Denmark is the only place where fashion week launches with someone going on the catwalk before the first show to give a political pep-talk speech. It’s quite un-fashion, and it’s not what you’d expect.’ Furthermore, parts of the industry seem to be under the impression that a fashion writer’s job description reads ‘Type up awestruck, rose-tinted hyperbole about average trunk show collections. Lather, rinse, repeat.’ But, as Style.com fashion critic Sarah Mower commented in the Winter 2008 issue of DANSK Magazine: ‘[...] our responsibility is to the reader, not to keeping anyone in business. We are not just a glorified PR service for designers – they can love or hate what we write, but in the end, I think they respect us for the fact that we don’t just say everything’s pretty and lovely and regurgitate their press releases.’ we need to keep a close eye on our young talent – and hopefully introduce them into a tradition of honest, informed feedback. Danish designer Camilla Stærk, who’s based in New York and now shows her label Stærk during New York fashion week after previously showing in London, sees reviews as tools for developing her work: ‘Critique is an expected ingredient in the seasonal reviews in both these cities. Of course, one is always affected by a critical review or comment of the collection, after all the hard work and emotion you’ve just put into it, but I feel that criticism is often something that can be turned into a positive thing,’ she says, adding: ‘The anticipation alone – knowing that reviewers will look at your work with fresh, comparative
and critical eyes, regardless of how they received your last collection – is an essential ingredient in how you push yourself in your work.’ With a degree from Ravensbourne, one of London’s top fashion colleges, Stærk hasn’t been trained within the babied Danish fashion traditions – something her words give evidence to. Rather, London’s fashion schools force you to develop a thick There is a tendency in Denmark to think we have amazing taste simply because we come from a strong design tradition. skin from day one, teaching you that “you are only as good as your last collection’. Camilla Bigler, London Director of branding and advertising agency Style Counsel that publishes DANSK Daily, comments in this vein: ‘There is a tendency in Denmark to think we have amazing taste simply because we come from a strong design tradition.’ So have we been resting on our laurels? According to Bigler, perhaps as far as our design schools are concerned: ‘The pinnacle of Danish fashion talent aren’t even trained at our colleges. And that’s an issue we should probably take a long, hard look at. We’ve got an amazing design heritage and tradition, but we have to invest more in our design schools if we want a Central Saint Martins or a Ravensbourne.’ This fashion writer is excited to see what this week has to offer in relation to the new, young designers that have popped up on the show schedule. Not saying that new and quirky is necessarily better than established, but we need to keep a close eye on our young talent – and hopefully introduce them into a tradition of honest, informed feedback. And let them know it’s okay to be proud of what you do, but if you want to stand a chance in the harsh, cruel world of international fashion, you need to realise negative criticism is a positive thing. Susanne Madsen is the Fashion Features Editor of DANSK Magazine
PG. 47 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW09 Official Newspaper Saturday 02.07.09 — — — — — — — —
Calender Show Calendar Saturday, February 7
15.00 Designers Nest Show Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V By invitation only 16.00 Malene Marron LiteraturHaus, Møllegade 7, Copenhagen N By invitation only 17.00 Bertoni Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V By invitation only 18.00 Karen Bagge Jolene, Flæsketorvet 81-85, Copenhagen V By invitation only 19.00 Copenhagen Unfair Kødboderne 18, Copenhagen V By invitation only 20.00 Hugo Boss TBC By invitation only
Event Calendar Saturday, February 7 23.00 CPH Vision Party AW09 The Royal Danish Playhouse, Sankt Annæ Plads 36, Copenhagen K By invitation only
24.00 Chick with Guns by May Anderson Supermodel May Anderson hosts the party for her own jeans label Rosenborggade 15, Copenhagen K By invitation only
Fashion Weekend Saturday 7 February 13.00 – 14.00 Lykke May Book Signing The supermodel signs her new book “My Nine Lives” Illum Books Østergade 52 Copenhagen K 14.00, 15.00 & 16.00 A Pair Fashion Show Visit the shoe store for an exclusive fashion show, presenting the new collection Ny Østergade 3 Copenhagen K
Kødboderne 18 Copenhagen V 23.00 – 05.00 Chick with Guns by May Andersen Rosenborggade 15 Copenhagen K By invitation only Nima K - HYPERLINK “mailto:info@nimak. dk” email@example.com 23.00 – 05.00 CPH Vision Party The Royal Danish Playhouse Kvæsthusbroen Sankt Annæ Plads 36 Copenhagen K By invitation only Joe Bruce – firstname.lastname@example.org 24.00 – 05.00 NASA Fashion Weekend! By NASA & World Finest Clubs Boltens Gaard Gothersgade 8F Copenhagen K For more events, please go to www. copenhagenfashionweekend.com!
20.00 – 22.00 Copenhagen Unfair Show Off Kødboderne 18 Copenhagen V 22.00 – 05.00 Copenhagen Unfair Dance Off
— Fashion Playlist — Words Rozanna Fritz — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — Jean von Baden is one of Copenhagen’s most popular and versatile DJ’s. He has played at everything from underground parties to high-society festivities for the Royal family. Through the last 15 years, Jean has played at the Olympics in Beijing, the Box, Gold bar and Mr. Blacks in NYC, been a flamboyant go-go dancer at X-RAY and Ibiza, and played with superstar DJ’s like TIGA, FELIX da House KAT, and Alexander Rubric. — Jean von Baden will flip records at the Rützou, Annhagen, and Hugo Boss shows, and at a number of parties: Gallery’s Party, IC Company’s reception, Club Lækker, “I AM” and Nasa Fashion Weekend. —
Jean von Baden
23.00 Lækker Party Music by Kjeld, Jean, Djuna & Peter Bottega Charlottenlund, Skovridderkroen, Strandvejen 235, Charlottenlund Announce your arrival at HYPERLINK “mailto:email@example.com” leakker@ neoncph.com
Jean recommends the following music for 2009 Q Lazzarus: Goodbye horses. The ultimate melancholy horror vibe. An exclusive journey through a lesbian universe with the vibes from Silence of the lambs. MURCOF: The Versailles Sessions (album) A supreme sound journey. Very deep, very melancholic. The Fagget Fairies: Feed The Horse (track) Super cool pop-track by a super duo. Works well at more commercial shows. Grace Jones: Corporate Cannibal (track) Do I really need to explain that Grace Jones is the coolest person in the world and that this track is a manifestation of a time when corporations are the criminals? BLACK DEVIL DISCO CLUB: everything they’ve released, The neo neo disco revolution is here, funky, organic and sexy. Works well with designers that get the point! Mike Sheridan – I syv sind (Album) This Copenhagen wunderkind is already a legend and his soundscapes are a must for setting a special ambience.
CPH Vision – Stand No. 06