12 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 7, 2013
Hair Brands Mine Skin-Care Innovation
THE MULTITASKING philosophy of recent skin-care trends — most notably BB creams — is transforming the often-marginalized hair-care category, even in the traditionally uninterSPECIAL REPORT: ested prestige retail realm. Hair-care lines, boasting ingredient lists that sound like luxury skin regimens, are driving what was once viewed as a commodity with electrifying innovation. “Clients are now treating their hair and their scalp much like they do with the rest of their skin-care routines. Cleansing, exfoliating, masks and specialized treatments are all part of our clients’ hair-care routines,” said Priya Venkatesh, vice president of merchandising, skin care, at Sephora. “Many of our brands have started to speak to the client targeting the beneﬁt, like you have seen with skin-care brands for years. They are investing in clinical claims and building ingredient stories. We’ve seen skin-care concepts, like antiaging and scalp health, really start to resonate with our clients.” Traditionally, hair care has thrived at mass and in the salon category at a relatively high channel, but as Sephora shows, level for men and women, especially older men and women.” that’s changing. “We see the needle moving,” Liebmann said, referring to said Karen Grant, vice president the lucrative lure of the Baby and global industry analyst at Boomer market, which is ﬁxatThe NPD Group. She was refer- ed on the problems of hair loss, ring to growth of specialty hair- among other concerns. She furcare products in department ther asserted that even in this and specialty stores. And she cash-strapped recovery, pricewas backed up by a prominent obsessed consumers will pay for extra high-tech hair products, specialty store retailer. “Any new brand we launch “[There’s a] willingness of peois highly technical. Innovation ple to spend again.” However in hair care sells,” said Marla she warned, “You can’t make it Malcolm Beck, cofounder so complicated that people feel and chief executive officer of like you’re taking advantage of them. People have no time Bluemercury Inc. While the hair-care niche for anything. It’s that balance in prestige is admittedly tiny, between innovation and conveit has been growing with gusto. nience that makes people say, According to Grant, the specialty ‘It’s worth the price.’” In a bid to convince consumcategory of hair care — where the skin-care-inspired prod- ers to pay prices well above — ucts live — grew by 18 percent in some cases more than triple in 2012. In particular, hair-care — those commonly found in the oils, like Moroccanoil, have been mass market, luxury hair-care shooting ahead, gaining 40 per- brands are loudly touting skincent in 2012, and 32 percent in care-like ingredients with many the ﬁrst three months of this year. collections promising to deliver The world of prestige hair care antiaging beneﬁts. “There are 68 million Baby is small but sales grew from $60 million in department stores for Boomers who want to look younger, and hair plays such an impor2007 to $97 million last year. So far, at least, the major tant role,” said Peter Coppola, players like Bumble and bum- who is launching his antiaging ble are dominating the scene. hair range, Keratin Concept “[The customer] wants a brand Legacy, this month. “As you age has a heritage and a validity of you lose diameter, hair becomes being in the space,” said Grant. thinner and unmanageable. We “Brands have to have a unique want women to see you can redifferentiation and benefits.” verse the negative effects of hair Grant noted that there is a lot aging just like with skin care.” of stock put into building buzz, Coppola’s line features keratin but there also is value in provid- protein alongside ingredients like ing sampling and “letting people collagen and ceramides, said to plump hair and help control frizz. see what is so special about it.” Wendy Liebmann, founder “Ceramides and collagen bond to and ceo of WSL Strategic Retail, the keratin to make it work better makes the point that “everybody for younger-looking hair,” he said. Several brands, such as Ojon, is looking for the next nail care, the next nail category. Hair is contend that skin-care ingredione of those categories that has ents can be just as powerful in restoring hair health. great relevance to all ages.” “There have been many ﬁnd“There’s an interest in the
ADVANCED HAIR CARE
Bluemercury’s haircare assortment. ings in recent years in hair care that have led to high-performance treatments that rival the signiﬁcant results of highend skin-care treatments,” said Karelle Messner, executive director of Ojon product development. “We partnered with RWTH Aachen University in Germany and proved scientifically that our signature ingredient, Ojon Oil, has a similar composition to lipids found in healthy, virgin hair and that Ojon Oil is clinically proven to repair hair damage from the inside out.” A number of new introductions from brands — including collections from Dr. Dennis Gross, JF Haircare, Ouidad and Kérastase — are designed
ﬂaking. Resveratrol is a potent antioxidant which prevents freeradical damage. Ubiquinone helps to increase cell turnover, whether you’re using it on the skin on your face or on your scalp. You’re nourishing the hair follicle, as well as the hair.” The biggest opportunity is the scalp, said Gross, who introduced the scalp serum in May. A shampoo and conditioner will follow in July. “If you give antiaging to the scalp, you will see a tremendous beneﬁt over and above how you’re treating the hair itself,” he said. “It’s a mistake to focus solely on the hair.” Salon owner and celebrity stylist Julien Farel, who runs JF Haircare, also is focused on scalp care. “You cannot grow grass in sand,” he said. “As with a beautiful lawn, you must fertilize and water [the scalp] well.… By adding antioxidant and antiinflammatory bioactives that can be carried into the dermis, the scalp remains hydrated, nourished and soothed, regaining its original vitality.” The centerpiece of Farel’s product line, Restore, was ﬁrst launched in 2011 after several years of collaborating with Dr. Guido Rovesti, an Italian scientist who’s worked with hyaluronic acid since the Sixties. “Hyaluronic acid intensely hydrates the scalp, dermis and hair, which is why it is included in the entire range of products,” said Farel. He also uses a slew of other active substances, all of which are designed to be carried deep into the dermis and skin cells: threalose, phytantriol, arginine, panthenol, resveratrol, bioﬂavonoids, vitamin C and vitamin E. In September, Farel will add stem cells to Restore. “They have been clinically proven to stimulate ﬁbroblasts, and ﬁbroblasts are critical to synthesizing collagen in the skin,” said Farel. “For the follicle to thrive in its environment, it needs the
Clients are now treating their hair and their scalp much like they do with the rest of their skin-care routines.
— PRIYA VENKATESH, SEPHORA to speciﬁcally target the scalp, where many beauty experts profess healthy, younger-looking hair begins. New York City-based dermatologist Dennis Gross said the decision to take the company’s forward-thinking skin-care ideas into hair care was a nobrainer. “So many of the ingredients found in our new Root Resilience Anti-Aging Haircare collection are also found in skin care for a simple reason — they work,” he said. “For example, collagen nourishes, hydrates and helps restore damaged hair. Copper peptides not only provide antiaging beneﬁts on your face, but also in your hair. Biotin works to strengthen hair, helps clarify the scalp and prevents
Kérastase’s Initialiste. or maintained, it can directly affect healthier hair.” A more targeted approach to hair health requires more specialty products. For instance, Kérastase’s Initialiste Advanced Scalp and Hair Concentrate, introduced in March, applies the attributes of a facial serum to a hair treatment product. “Our true inspiration comes from skin care and inventing a new gesture into hair care and a new beauty gesture for women,” said Julien Bouzitat, vice president of marketing for Kérastase and Shu Uemura Art of Hair. “We made a parallel in a woman’s imagination to how they use serum on their face. Initialiste is multibeneﬁt, highly concentrated, applied with a pipette and can use your regular stylers on top of it.” Additionally, the brand’s recently launched collection of stylers, a ﬁrst for the brand, called Couture Styling, also alludes to antiaging facial care textures and formulas. “The line is full of hyaluronic acid and collagen, which is directly inspired by skin care,” he said. “We wanted to provide hold without compromising the ﬁber.” Despite the onslaught of new collections, retailers are clamoring for more. Beck of Bluemercury, for instance, is on the hunt for more targeted, or “hyper-segmented,” hair-care products. Speciﬁcally, she’d like to see a range for color-treated hair organized by hair type. But WSL’s Liebmann warned that the industry has to be prudent in expanding the ranges. “Is it realistic to expect people to use four products every day?” asked Liebmann. “That’s part of establishing a real value proposition — not about price — that says this will really make a difference.” To that end, antiaging claims are certainly getting consumers’ attention. Debbi Hartley-Triesch, Nordstrom’s national merchandise manager, treatment, said, “Looking at some of our top-selling hair-care product in Aveda, Alterna and Phyto, all of them have antiaging beneﬁts. Women want to look younger, and treating your hair as an extension to your skin-care routine feels like a natural next step when searching for the fountain of youth.” She added, “Antiaging products are one of our hottest-trending categories in skin care. We see this starting to emerge within hair-care products as well.”
support of the collagen surrounding it.” Earlier this month, Ouidad introduced a skin-care-inspired line called Salon Series, which aims to treat scalp health, and in turn, hair health. “Even though your care for your scalp and skin is very different, it is just as important to treat the scalp as it is to treat your skin,” said Hillary Solomon, president and ceo of Ouidad. “While hair is essentially a nonliving entity compromised principally of keratin protein ﬁbers, the hair grows from a very vital portion of the skin called the follicle that resides below the scalp and is full of cellular activity and life.… If follicular health is improved
KÉRASTASE PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA
By WWD STAFF
Published on Jun 6, 2013
Hair-care lines, boasting ingredient lists that sound like luxury skin regimens, are driving what was once viewed as a commodity with electr...