wwd beauty inc
Edward Nardoza editor in chief, WWd
PEtE BorN executive editor, beauty JENNy B. FiNE editor
he MAC flagship in Times Square employs 64 makeup artists who collectively speak nine different languages. At Galeries Lafayette in Paris, signs in Mandarin share floor space with French communiqués. Arabic is the lingua franca at London’s key retail destinations like Harrods and Selfridges, while in Turkey, speaking Russian is fast becoming a job requirement for sales associates. As a thriving middle class emerges in developing countries like China and Brazil, these newly empowered citizens are traveling abroad in ever increasing numbers. And when they travel, tops on their list of activities is shopping. “We are more nomadic than we were 20 years ago,” Clinique’s Ricardo Quintero told me when I interviewed him for “Movers, Shakers & Shoppers.” “Today, you see the Chinese everywhere—they are traveling the world and learning the codes of Western luxury.” Turn to page 28 to discover how savvy retailers and marketers are effectively targeting the new jet-setters. The five women in “Counter Intuition” have personally seen an increase in the tourist trade. Each is a leading beauty adviser for a top brand at a major retailer around the country, and as such, is on the front lines of ever-evolving consumer patterns. We wanted to find out their firsthand experiences about what women are really looking for today—and what makes them buy in today’s post-recession reality. Their answers, starting on page 36, are illuminating. Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer and chief shopper of WSL Strategic Retail, not only knows what women want—she knows how, when, why and where they like to buy it. Liebmann has channeled her passion for shopping to create one of the world’s foremost consumer consultancies. Not one to sugarcoat the news, Liebmann’s insights are as bold as her personal style, and retailers such as Saks’ Steve Sadove and Boots’ Steve Lloyd count themselves among her fans. Find out why in “Life on the Buy Side” on page 32. Elsewhere in this issue devoted to all things retail, you’ll find an in-depth interview with Nars ceo Louis Desazars, who has powered the brand to double-digit growth globally; an update on serial entrepreneur Gail Federici and fantastic insights into the beauty industry at work and at play. I hope you enjoy it. Please drop me a line at jenny_fine@fairchildfashion. com and let me know. —Jenny B. Fine
JENNiFEr wEil european editor JuliE NaughtoN Senior preStige Market beauty editor Molly Prior beauty financial editor FayE BrookMaN contributing editor BEliSa SilVa beauty Market editor, MaSS JayME Cyk editorial aSSiStant tiFFaNy MEgNath editorial intern katiE krEtSChMEr copy editor
Art BarBara SulliVaN art director taBitha lEE uEBlaCkEr deSign intern Contributors SaMaNtha CoNti aNd NiNa JoNES (london), MilES SoCha (Paris), kErry olSEN (Milan), MarCy MEdiNa aNd raChEl BrowN (los angeles), MEliSSa driEr aNd SuSaN StoNE (Berlin), aMaNda kaiSEr (tokyo) Photo CarriE ProVENzaNo photo editor lExiE MorElaNd aSSociate photo editor JENNa grEENE aSSiStant photo editor EriN FitzgErald Studio Manager EilEEN tSuJi photo coordinator roBErt CohEN photo facilitator JohN aquiNo, gEorgE ChiNSEE, StEVE EiChNEr, kylE EriCkSEN, thoMaS iaNNaCCoNE, roBErt Mitra photographerS Contributing PhotogrAPhers ruVEN aFaNador, kENJi aoki, daN BorriS, NigEl diCkSoN, BEN haSSEtt, hENry lEutwylEr, Mark haNauEr, MiChaEl NaglE, JEFF riEdEl, PhiliPPE SaloMoN, daVid lEwiS taylor, yaSu+JuNko beAuty inC Advertising Paul Jowdy vice preSident, publiSher, WWd CyNthia BoNiEllo beauty director Jill BirEN WeSt coaSt director CourtNEy hazirJiaN WeSt coaSt account Manager odilE Eda-PiErrE account Manager, pariS SaM todd beauty SaleS aSSiStant MArketing/CreAtive serviCes JaNEt MENakEr executive director, Marketing EMily CortEz creative ServiceS director kriStEN M. wildMaN executive director, event Marketing MarJoriE kEatiNg public relationS director daNiEllE MCMurray director, integrated Marketing and Special projectS JENNiFEr PiNCuS director, integrated Marketing FaBio SallES creative director Julia doNahuE copy director BriaNNa liPoVSky Senior Marketing Manager kriStiN MooNEy Manager, event Marketing JaMiE rudolPh Manager, event Marketing aliSSa groSS aSSociate Manager, integrated Marketing JESSiCa CaSEy aSSociate Manager, integrated Marketing daNiEllE k. StEwart coordinator, integrated Marketing lEigh alCott Marketing coordinator ProduCtion gENa kElly vice preSident, Manufacturing ChriS wENgiEl group production director kEViN hurlEy production director Jill BrEiNEr aSSociate production Manager CirCulAtion EllEN dEaly Senior executive director JohN CroSS planning and operationS director PEggy PylE Marketing director SuzaNNE BErardi Senior Marketing Manager aliSoN ChriStiE aSSiStant Marketing Manager fAirChild fAshion MediA will SChENCk chief revenue officer SuzaNNE rEiNhardt vice preSident, finance & operationS daN Shar vice preSident, general Manager, digital MEliSSa BrEChEr vice preSident, Marketing & coMMunicationS MiChaEl atMorE editorial director, footWear neWS & director of brand developMent dEVoN BEEMEr finance director taNya daViS buSineSS analySt JaNEt JaNoFF buSineSS Manager NaNCy ButkuS creative director
Photo by thomas iannaccone. Stylist: Mayte allende. hair by ayumi yamamoto at defacto for redken. Makeup by Janeiro for diorskin at Beautywingny.com. Manicure by ana Maria for artists by timothy Priano.com. Fashion assistant: ashleigh williams. Photo assistant: Bridget Collins. Model: Monika/Fusion. Sweater by white + warren; blouse by Preen; skirt, shoes and suitcase by louis Vuitton; earrings by lauren Craft.
PEtEr w. kaPlaN editorial director giNa SaNdErS preSident & ceo
3/28/12 2:00 PM
Published on Apr 13, 2012
Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer and chief shopper of WSL Strategic Retail, not only knows what women want—she knows how, when, why a...