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EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD

EDITOR’S LETTER

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR

Boom Times

W

hen Leonard Lauder created his famous term, the Lipstick Index, to illustrate the resilience of beauty during times of recession, it’s safe to say he probably wasn’t referring to $48 lipsticks. Thus far this year, though, Tom Ford Beauty is doing a brisk business in lipsticks costing just that. Meanwhile, sales of luxury skin care brands like La Mer, La Prairie and Chantecaille are soaring, while fragrances priced $100 and over are up 48 percent year to date. Indeed, the upper end of the beauty market is booming, and the positive impact is cascading across the entire prestige market. As Karen Grant, global industry analyst of The NPD Group, which provided these figures, says, “The higher end is the engine that is igniting the category, and is part of the reason we are seeing such strong growth.” Discover how the consumption habits of the affluent shopper have evolved in the last 12 months and how they’re impacting the overall market in “Indulge Me” on page 20. One key evolution has been the demand for great service, among both the affluent and the aspirationals, a fact not lost on our cover subject, Lauren Remington Platt. A fixture of the New York social scene and descendant of the founder of Remington Arms Company, Platt is redefining the door-to-door concept with Vensêtte, which provides hair, makeup and manicures in the privacy of one’s own home. The 20-month-old company is booming, and Platt is now looking to expand her domain geographically and digitally. WWD’s European beauty editor Jennifer Weil reports on Platt’s growth strategy in “At Your Service” on page 22. There’s a retail boom going on up North, too, in Canada, to be exact, where an influx of stylish fashion and beauty retailers are setting up shop. Sephora, J. Crew Anthropologie, Nordstrom and Target are among those drafting expansion plans for the country, which has a relatively low barrier to entry compared to many emerging markets. But as WSL’s Wendy Liebmann tells beauty financial editor Molly Prior, “Canada is a country that at first glance looks familiar, but there are a lot of differences.” Find out the key issues in “Red Hot Canada” on page 30. No doubt Karen Buglisi, the global brand president of MAC Cosmetics and the subject of this month’s Master Class KEY POINTS profile, would have some sage advice FROM THIS ISSUE for those looking to expand in Canada. 1. RICH REWARDS: In beauty, Buglisi is one of the key players in both the affluent and aspirational MAC’s ascendancy as the number-one shopper are back—provided they color cosmetics brand in the prestige receive great service. PAGE 20 market, and as WWD’s executive editor 2. NORTHERN STAR: Canada is Pete Born discovers, one who pours her North America’s new retail hot spot, heart and soul (as well as considerable with Target, Nordstrom and Sephora brain power) into growing its business all plotting expansion plans. PAGE 30 worldwide. Right now, Buglisi and her 3. THE GROWTH CONTINUUM: team are focused on Brazil, a country MAC’s global flagship strategy looks she calls the brand’s China. MAC is in to capitalize on its key business drivers of entertainment, innovation full expansion mode there, exporting its and inclusiveness. PAGE 6 innovative vision and theatricality to a 4. SHAKE IT UP, BABY: beauty-hungry consumer group. One Two top London department key initiative is the opening of flagships, stores are experimenting with both in Brazil and around the world. nontraditional formats to attract It’s an audacious goal, and one that younger consumers. PAGE 14 epitomizes MAC’s strategy. Says Buglisi, 5. THE YOUNG GUNS: “We take 100 percent responsibility for Individuality and a subtle entertaining the consumer...It’s the way sophistication connect the new we bring the brand to life.” young stars of the hair and

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makeup worlds. PAGE 24

JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR

ART BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), CYNTHIA MARTENS (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR ERIN FITZGERALD STUDIO MANAGER EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, BEN HASSETT, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHER, WWD JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR COURTNEY HAZIRJIAN WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS CHRISTOPHER SANTORELLA BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES JANET MENAKER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING EMILY CORTEZ DIRECTOR, CREATIVE SERVICES KRISTEN M. WILDMAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING MARJORIE KEATING PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR DANIELLE MCMURRAY DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING AND SPECIAL PROJECTS JENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING FABIO SALLES CREATIVE DIRECTOR JULIA DONAHUE COPY DIRECTOR ALEXIS WARCHALOWSKI DIRECTOR, DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT BRIANNA LIPOVSKY ASSOCIATE MARKETING DIRECTOR JENNIFER BORCK SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING JAMIE RUDOLPH MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING MICHAEL FOUNTAS MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING ALISSA GROSS ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING JESSICA CASEY ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING DANIELLE K. STEWART COORDINATOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING LEIGH ALCOTT MARKETING COORDINATOR PRODUCTION GENA KELLY VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER CIRCULATION ELLEN DEALY SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR JOHN CROSS PLANNING AND OPERATIONS DIRECTOR SUZANNE BERARDI SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER PEGGY PYLE MARKETING DIRECTOR ALISON CHRISTIE ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA WILL SCHENCK CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER SUZANNE REINHARDT VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE & OPERATIONS DAN SHAR VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL MELISSA BRECHER VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS MICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT DEVON BEEMER FINANCE DIRECTOR TANYA DAVIS BUSINESS MANAGER JANET JANOFF BUSINESS MANAGER NANCY BUTKUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR PETER W. KAPLAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR GINA SANDERS PRESIDENT & CEO

—JENNY B. FINE

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Editor's Letter: Boom Times in Beauty - Beauty Inc. (11/09/12)