Page 1

MARCH WG MAGAZINE 2018

ALAIN PASSARD

VISIONARY CHEF

REIF OTHMAN

A BILLIONAIRE LIFE

ANDRÉ CHIANG A PERFECTIONIST www.wgmagazines.com

NICOLAI NØRREGAARD SELF MADE CHEF WG March 2018 -

1


THE CULINARY MAGAZINE BY ALFREDO RUSSO

IT’S ALL ITALIAN... FROM ITALY & AROUND THE WORLD!

2 - WG March 2018

info@extraordinaryitalian.com I www.extraordinaryitalian.com


WG MAGAZINE EXTRAORDINARY MARCH ITALIAN 2018

OUT ON 05 MARCH 2018 ANGELO SABATELLI

A Culinary Master

MATTIA PASTORI

A Classic Bartender

MASSIMO BOTTURA

Modern Italian Gastronomy www.extraordinaryitalian.com

PINO CUTTAIA

Reinvents His Memories WG March EX.IT March2018 2018 --

31

STUFFED BABY SQUID / PHOTO © PHÉNIX


4 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

For more than 80 years, Bragard supports women and men who give the best of themselves everyday at work to ignite their client’s taste buds. Combining tradition and inovation, professional workwear from Bragard gained unparalled reputation thanks to its quality and make the biggest names of the culinary and hospitaly world proud.

BRAGARD LLC OFFICE 604 BEDAIA BUILDING AL BARSHA 1 PO BOX 214338 DUBAI UAE Tel : +971 4 395 16 11 Fax : +971 4 395 16 12 fabien.firetto@bragard.com

www.bragard.com

WG March 2018 -

5


Contemporary Italian cuisine by

World Renowned Three Michelin Star Chef Heinz Beck

6 - WG March 2018

For reservations call +971 4 8182 155 | +971 4 818 2222 | Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah | www.waldorfastoria.com/Dubai


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

7


Together we stand strong, dream big and create greater change for causes worldwide. CharityStars is the international platform specialising in fundraising through digital auctions promoted in collaboration with celebrities and large companies. All the proceeds are donated to charity. A different way of raising awareness about the many charitable causes worldwide.

CHECK OUT OUR AMAZING AUCTIONS

www.charitystars.com

8 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

Jean-Georges Dubai showcases a comfortable indoor layout with a jade, cozy garden. While providing a fine atmosphere of an outdoor vivid lounge and stunning interiors, Jean-Georges Dubai offers its guests the chance to enjoy multiple evenings with live entertainment, a Friday brunch with an exquisite menu created by 2 Michelin Star Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten paired with impeccable service. The restaurant presents a warm ambiance that captures Dubai’s affinity throughout the day to uphold a late night. JG Dubai is a preferred venue for many celebrities who have chosen it as a trendy destination to celebrate their events or simply to enjoy the exquisite dishes and service. Guests who have joined us in the past include key members of royal families in the UAE as well as international names such as Russell James, Franca Sozzani, Nargis Fakhri, Paolo Maldini, Clarence Seedorf, Dwight Yorke, and Christian Louboutin.

Four Seasons Resort Jumeirah Beach Road, Dubai

Book at +971 4 343 6118

info@jean-georges-dubai.com | www.jean-georges-dubai.com

WG March 2018 -

9


Good taste isn’t expensive

S P A C E S

F O R

B E A U T I F U L

L I V I N G

conceptplus INTERIOR DESIGN

10

Suite 214, Hamsa (A) Office Tower, Za’beel Road Karama, Dubai, United Arab Emirates P.O.Box 300450, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel.: +971 4 3705269 I Fax: +971 4 2947442 - WG March 2018 E-mail : info@conceptplusstyle.com I osama@conceptplusstyle.com www.conceptplusstyle.com

11


WG MAGAZINE

16 - WG February 2018

WG March 2018 -

11


Bon Vivant Communications

A global gastro embassy specialising in culinary diplomacy, exclusive dinner parties, star chef world tours, cultural marketing, filmmaking and entrepreneurism. The core expertise is in brand management and PR of gourmet restaurants and star chefs, but also of resorts, châteaux and food festivals. Creator of Dining Impossible and the San Sebastián Dinner Series, as well as the 2016 Diego Muñoz Exploration and 2017 Kamilla Seidler Expedition. Culinary Producer of “Michelin Stars - Tales from the kitchen”. Daily serving partnerships in Copenhagen, Paris, Vienna, Madrid, San Sebastián, Moscow, Macau, New York City, Mexico City, Lima and La Paz.

www.bon-vivant.dk

12 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

13


‫ﻣﻔﻬﻮم اﺑﻴﺎت ﻫﻮ اﻟﺠﻤﻊ ﺑني اﻟﻄﻌﺎم واﳌﻮﺳﻴﻘﻰ ﰲ أﺟﻮاء ﻣﺜﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﻣام ﻳﺠﻌﻠﻬﺎ ﺗﺠﺮﺑﺔ ﻣﺜﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﰲ‬ ‫ﻟﺬﻳﺬ اﳌﺬاق اﻷﻃﺒﺎق اﻟﻠﺒﻨﺎﻧﻴﺔ اﻷﺻﻴﻠﺔ وﻟﺬﻳﺬ‬.

The concept of Abyat is to combine food and music in the perfect ambiance making it the ultimate ex�erience in savouring authentic and flavorf�l Lebanese dishes.

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻌﻤﻞ‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻷﺣﺪ إﱃ اﻟﺨﻤﻴﺲ‬

Sunday to Thursday 12pm to 1am

14

OPENING HOURS

‫اﻟﺠﻤﻌﺔ واﻟﺴﺒﺖ‬

Friday - Saturday 12pm to 2am

Club Vista Mare, Palm Jumeirah, Shoreline Apartments 10 For Reservation Call : 04 5588 428 info@abyatdubai.com, www.abyatdubai.com - WG March 2018 Abyat-DXB


WG MAGAZINE

DUTY DUTYFREE FREE PRODUCTS PRODUCTS & & BONDED BONDED STORES STORES

5, Vyzantiou, Spyrides 2064Nicosia, Nicosia, Cyprus 5, Vyzantiou, Spyrides Tower, Towers, 2064 Cyprus Tel:+357 +35722210828 222 108 28 I I +44 +44 745 745 228 Tel: 22868 680202 www.brandhouse.uk.com www.brandhouse.uk.com

WG March 2018 -

15


Simply Italian brings to Dubai, the ultimate Italian experience, exploring the superior culinary skills with mouthwatering dishes. With a vibrant & colorful terrace, Simply Italian offers a charming atmosphere while dining by the beach. Opening Hours

Sunday to Thursday : 12pm to 1am | Friday to Saturday : 12pm to 2am

Club Vista Mare, Palm Jumeirah, Shoreline Apartments 10 For Reservation Call : 04 55 88 354 info@simplyitaliandubai.com | www.simplyitaliandubai.com SimplyItalianDubai

16 - WG March 2018

simplyitaliandxb


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

17


Culinary Arts can give new life to children... we make it our mission to identify talented, underprivileged children with culinary ambitions and provide opportunities that otherwise would have been beyond their reach‌

Grant MacPherson

WO’GOA Foundation Ambassador An inspirer, innovator and perfectionist - Grant encompasses all the qualities that deserving children can glean from a role model!

The Pearl Martin Sepia, Sydney, Australia - WGBenn March-2018

18

partnered with SKD ACADEMY the culinary institute in the Philippines


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

19


Avani and Bala #VisitSpain #Andalusia #Sevilla #Giralda #Architecture #BeautifulView

20 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

“IN OUR CITIES, WHEN YOU LEAVE ONE EMBLEMATIC SPOT, YOU ENTER ANOTHER. YOU WILL SOON DISCOVER THAT ALL OF THEM ARE PART OF YOU”.

spain.info

WG March 2018 -

21


Real Madrid Café is a space where the passion for Real Madrid, football and socializing becomes one.

With two levels and two massive screens, Real Madrid Café, The Beach, JBR is the ultimate hangout for live matches while enjoying the beachfront location. Offering all-time comfort food favorites like burgers & wings, a wide selection of creative mocktails and shisha flavors, Real Madrid Café creates the perfect setting for Madridistas and sports enthusiasts a-like to gather and support their teams.

The extensive range of Real Madrid merchandise, including over 40 exclusively signed

pieces of memorabilia, ensures to give all shoppers and diners the ultimate football experience. Real Madrid Café also hosts a variety of events and is a popular place for birthday parties of all ages.

THE BEACH AT JBR, DUBAI U.A.E. TEL 04 277 5625 www.realmadridcafedubai.com realmadriddubai@ginzarestaurants.com

22 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

THE ULTIMATE ITALIAN EXPERIENCE

The perfect destination for authentic Italian cuisine overlooking the Dubai Fountain and full views of the Burj Khalifa SUNDAY - THURSDAY 12 pm - 12:00 am info@Serafinadubai.com | www.serafinadubai.com SerafinaDubai serafinadxb

FRIDAY - SATURDAY 11 am - 1:00 am

BOOK NOW! CALL 04 363 8447

AT SERAFINA SOUK AL BAHAR, DOWN TOWN DUBAI

WG March 2018 -

23


Editor

Fabian deCastro

Lifestyle Editor

Doug Singer

Feature Editor

Oilda Barreto

Contributors

Elisabete Ferreira Michael Hepworth

Photography

Victoria Shashirin Majella O’Connell

FJMdesign WGkonnect Photography Consultant Creative Design Studio Publisher IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd.

WG™ is an online digital publication published by: Izzy Publishing Pvt. Ltd. Unit 14, Agnelo Colony, Kerant, Caranzalem, 403002 Goa, India Tel: +91(832) 2463234 Fax: +91(832) 2464201 sales@wgmagazines.com

Marketing & Advertising Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: marketing@wgmagazines.com

Identifying underprivileged children with culinary ambitions...

G

Company Registration Number U22100GA2011PTC006731

WG™ Beverly Hills Michael Hepworth 287 S.Robertson Blvd Beverly Hills, CA 90211 WG™ New York Doug Singer - Head of Operations, North America 404 East 66 Street, Suite 2E New York, NY 10065 E-mail: doug@wgmagazines.com WG™ International Representative Point Select Leisure Management

©IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in WG™ digital publication do not necessarily reflect the views of IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. WG™ and IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies or errors and do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. All contents are strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. ©2018 WG™ All rights reserved.

www.wgmagazines.com/foundation

24 - WG March 2018

Cover Image Credit: ANDRÉ CHIANG PHOTO © EDMOND HO FOTOGRAFIE


G WG MAGAZINE

“Creativity takes courage, and we choose to be the courageous one” 14 February 2018 saw the closure of Restaurant André doors in Singapore yet it is not goodbye as a new beginning is set to open at the original location of Restaurant André that will see a brand new and exciting transformation. André Chiang plans a new category of cuisine and concept after the closure of Restaurant André. After causing all the stir and transforming the culinary landscape in Dubai and the U.A.E. Reif Othman joins the ex F1 boss Flavio Briatore’s Billionaire Life Group as Executive Chef and Business Partner of Sumosan at Billionaire Mansion in Dubai.

To elevate our epicurean experience we travel to Scandinavia, a journey to Bornholm, a small island in the middle of the Baltic Sea to meet with the self-made chef Nicolai Nørregaard, Damian Quintana at the Studio, and a taste of Thai cuisine with a western touch with Henrik Yde-Andersen. It is Nature - Simplicity - Taste - Dane with Morten Krogholm and the search for pure taste of Denmark. A trip to Oslo to meet up with Mikael Svensson at Kontrast before heading to the new Michelin star restaurant in Helsinki – Grön and catch up with Toni Kostian. From farm to the table with the visionary chef Alain Passard and his vegetable collection. L’Arpège is the only restaurant to self-manage its vegetable, herb and red and black fruit production.

It’s about the total experience at Ciel Bleu with Onno Kokmeijer who makes sure that any dish can be prepared every night, even when the restaurant is fully booked. Onno refines the recipes and focuses on the visual aspects – the arrangement on the plate, the type of tableware, and the way of serving.

Next is Ramón Freixa Madrid and his three essential ingredients: work, work and work! Ramón’s cuisine is based on quality product, excellence and the authenticity of flavours; it is full of references to the traditional but with a modern perspective.

Nick Bril brings his joint passions to Restaurant Ikarus in Hangar-7 during his tenure as guest chef in March 2018. Bon Appétit

FdeCastro

WG March 2018 -

25


MARCH 2018

CONTENTS 32

André Chiang - A Perfectionist

50

Billionaire Life

60

Visionary Chef

72

Musical Passion On A Plate

80

Dutch Master Chef

92

Authenticity Of Flavours

104 Self Made Chef 118 Kontrast 128 At The Studio 138 Western Touch To Thai Cuisine 148 Pure Taste Of Denmark 156 Toni Kostian & Grön

26 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

VANILLA, BUTTERNUT, SALTED DUCK YOLK TACOS ANDRÉ CHIANG PHOTO © EDMOND HO FOTOGRAFIE

WG March 2018 -

27


JOHN BUENAVENTURA’S TASTE OF SPAIN AT CUISINERO UNO… Tapas is the best representation of the social orientation of the Spanish people and a great reflection of its culture. The most traditional way is to get together and enjoy Tapas (these bite-sized portions) which is usually eaten standing as people ingle with each other… PHOTO © ADORIZON CREATIVE SOLUTIONS

28 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

GIANPAOLO BRUNO, ITALIAN TRADE COMMISSIONER TO THE UAE, OMAN AND PAKISTAN

JOHN BUENAVENTURA, CHEF/OWNER CUISINERO UNO

GLORIA BRUNO AND STEFANO IORINI, CEO MONVISO

REIF OTHMAN WITH GUEST

WG March 2018 -

29


30 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG in collaboration with Tourism of Spain, Cuisinero Uno and the Steigenberger staged a Flamenco Tapas and Paella night earlier this month. It was a unique experience, one special evening that showcased a perfect mix of cultures with Spanish cuisine by John Buenaventura and Luis Ezqueta who brought authentic 14 Spanish dishes to the table. Dubai’s Best Chef Reif Othman added a Japanese touch to the evening with his Pillow Beef and Wagyu Nigiri. It was an official event of the Dubai Food Festival and was held in association with Lavazza, MonViso, Italian Dairy Products, Promar Trading, Summit, La Despensa, Häagen-Dazs and EX.IT – Extraordinary Italian. Flamenco Art & Entertainment gave a taste of their spicy rhythms and passionate flamenco dances. REIF OTHMAN, MAUSAM BADSHAH - TOURISM OF SPAIN AND JOHN BUENAVENTURA

STEFANO IORINI, CEO MONVISO AND THE MONVISO TEAM

A special thanks to Karim Merhi, Stefano Iorini, Elie Makhlouf and Fabien Firetto of BRAGRAD for the brilliant chefs jackets!

CHEESE BY PROMAR TRADING

WG March 2018 -

31


ANDRÉ CHIANG

ANDRÉ CHIANG

PHOTO © EDMOND HO FOTOGRAFIE

“Creativity takes courage, and we choose to be the courageous one”

“I am a perfectionist. I am not afraid of challenges and I don’t think this is the best of André. Restaurant André has achieved more than what we set out to achieve for the past 8 years and we have spent a decade rooting ourselves in Singapore’s culinary scene, waving the Singapore flag on the highest stage of the culinary world. It took us 10 years to build Restaurant André to what it is today, and I wish to take another 10 years to create something better than this.”

32 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

PHOTO © NIEVE PHOTOGRAPHY

WG March 2018 -

33


ANDRÉ CHIANG

34 - WG March 2018

SWEET BEEF


WG MAGAZINE

“It is hard to express my feelings during this time. I am unsure if I should be happy as I embark on this bright new future ahead of me, or to be sad as we close this chapter and say goodbye to Restaurant ANDRE- one of the best restaurants in the world. I know that no matter what, I should be very proud of what we have achieved for Singapore, for Asia, and for the world”

“I am a perfectionist. I am not afraid of challenges and I don’t think this is the best of André. It took us 10 years to build Restaurant André to what it is today, and I wish to take another 10 years to create something better than this.”

Restaurant André opened the blue doors of a 3-storey shop house on Bukit Pasoh Road on 10th October 2010 (10.10.10). This humble 30-seater restaurant consistently received various awards and recognition for André Chiang’s daring cuisine and spontaneous menu designed around his selfconceived ‘OCTAPHILOSOPHY’- based on 8 distinct characteristics that guided his menu design and was the backbone of the creative process at Restaurant André. The initial question André Chiang asked himself at the very beginning of creating his first restaurant after coming back from Europe was - Who is André, what is André’s cuisine – is French, Chinese, Japanese or what is it? How could he define himself as a chef and be free from all the strong personalities he had previously as mentors? He decided to go and work on everything that he created and to find the trace of where the inspirations came from. “I realized, in fact I don’t have a certain technique or a certain flavor combination that has been consistent along the years and I change all the time and provide them spontaneously, but 8 elements is always there. I always have a pure dish that will use no seasoning, always have a dish that is dedicated to the Artisan, I always have unique ingredients introduced in the menu, and that’s where I found the 8 elements. This is actually my source of inspiration throughout the past 15 – 20 years. So I decide to write down and tell people that this 8 elements is André” says André Chiang. Eight words rose to the surface – and, from there, it all seemed so natural.

WG March 2018 -

35


ANDRÉ CHIANG

Pure, Salt, Artisan, Texture, South, Unique, Memory, Terroir… the eight most important words at Restaurant André. They were the backbone of everything that he created at Restaurant André. From a single dish to the restaurants overall philosophy – Octaphilosophy – a method of encouraging and managing the creative process, and a principle to live by...

The culinary philosophy is the eight elements, the eight elements represent eight different dishes that is basically André Chiang’s principal...

The culinary philosophy is the eight elements, so the eight elements represent eight different dishes that is basically André Chiang’s principal. Everything that he create it always goes back to this eight works so it was the approach to his cuisine, the approach that how he creates dishes, eight different dishes in the menu and you have different dimensions, so it not like only okay you have landscape dish, you have everything in the landscape. So every dish has a different approach. At Restaurant André they called it the Octagon Analysis. The octagon analysis is a chart of an octagon, looking at every dish and it creates a DNA of the dish, so if you have eight different dishes or eight different DNA’s overlapping each other it creates almost a complete Octagon. So that how he made sure that all the dishes were balanced. Octaphilosophy was developed as a tool to explain a dish. There are no starters or main courses but all dishes are there for a reason and all are equally important. Each dish is built up around an Octaphilosophy concept and finds its ultimate expression in the dining room setting. Being exposed to the International culinary scene by being featured on the New York Times list of ’10 Restaurants Worth a Plane Ride’, Restaurant André has consecutively been on the list of the World’s Best Restaurant Awards since its opening year in 2010.

36 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

37


ANDRÉ CHIANG

PURE

WATERMELON SKIN, THYME, FLEUR D’ORANGER

Beauty is in anything and everything. Truth is in simplicity. Allow an ingredient to unfold and evolve to its full potential without being altered. To release its honest flavor, aroma and texture. Let everything be untouched.

38 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

SALT

OYSTER, BABY MUSHROOM, GREEN APPLE

Sal-vation, salary, salad. Salt is not only the key of life, it also preserves, has been used as a currency, keeps away daemons and makes food taste delicious. Salt is sea, civilized and essential.

For the elements of salt, no salt is added, just some pure minerals of the sea flavor, when I think of a sea flavor, and the first thing that comes to mind is Normandy, Brittany. Brittany is famous for its oysters, mussels. You dive into this dish as you dive into the underwater world, you see corals, oysters, mussels and the foam of the sea water, and all this is the combination of the salt elements.

WG March 2018 -

39


ANDRÉ CHIANG

ARTISAN

MAIS VERSION 1: CREAM, SILK, BURDOCK

Partitioners of the art of cultivation deserve to be celebrated. Artisans carry history on their shoulders by passionately dedicating their lives to the craft of taking a simple ingredient and turning it in gold.

Artisan is an element we dedicate to different artisan producers we work with, so here we have this beautiful delicate baby corn. I do not want to think how to work on this dish or this ingredient. Chefs are selfish and they always think of cooking thing in their own way, I want these artisan farmers who know better than chefs the best way to eat it. The best way to eat this 14 day old baby corn is to just chew on the husk like a banana and eat the whole thing raw together with the corn silk. Raw corn with fired burdock to give more texture along with baby corn cream with sesame salt.

40 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

TEXTURE

‘CHARCOAL’, SQUID MOUTH, PIQUILLOS

Texture refers to the sensory impact of varying layers within a dish. Soft, crusty, hard, porous, slimy, dense, elastic… layers of texture composed as a symphony, with the complexity of rhythm, loudness, silence… A delicious sensory.

A combination where we have dip of piquillos, squid, garlic, smoke paprika, olive oil and charcoal. So the whole dish is very Basque combination, creating a dish that has the sense of Basque country, a dish which has Spanish and French culture. I want to create something to go with the piquillos that has both these elements “Charcoal”. The charcoal is a combination of half traditional French baguette and half Spanish churros, together with tossed vegetable ash to get that black color which looks exactly like real charcoal. You pick one piece of the charcoal and you have it with piquillos and squid. It’s crunchy on the outside and piping hot on the inside, its kind a bread churros. WG March 2018 -

41


ANDRÉ CHIANG

SOUTH

ROCKFISH, TOMATO, ROSE CHAMPAGNE

Inhale the perfume of sun-drenched olive trees and ripe tomatoes. The air vibrates from joie de vivre. This is the South of France, the region that generously invites the adventurous, colorful spirit we call life.

42 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

UN I Q U E PICKLED CARROT HEARTS

Explore an ingredient with curiosity. Forget about habitual rules. Dare to challenge the imagination. WG March 2018 -

43


ANDRÉ CHIANG

MEMORY

FOIE GRAS, TRUFFLE, CHIVE

You are your memory. Memories are your best reference and your best friend. A memory can be revitalized and updated for as long as you live. Use your memories to enhance your practice of hedonism. This is the only dish what I have kept on the menu at Restaurant André for the last 20 years, everywhere I go, I carry this dish with me that’s why it’s called “Memory”. It is my first created dish in my career as a chef. At the very beginning, a few years in my career and working in the best restaurants you try to perfect your craft and at that moment you don’t really create, we basically do what the chefs asks you to do and you learn from it but after few years you start to understand flavours, understand techniques, understand flavor combinations. In 1997, I created my first dish that I call my own - the “Memory” dish with Foie Gras, black Truffle, and chive. A dish I first created but also when I prepare everyday where I came from and why I want to become a chef.

44 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

TERROIR

‘CAMEMBERT’, HAY ICE CREAM

Terroir hails the produce of a specific time and place. The characteristics of a specific time and place, tradition and culture, geography and climate – incarnated into the everpresent origin. WG March 2018 -

45


ANDRÉ CHIANG

Juice is the purest way to appreciate nature in the liquid form... 46 - WG March 2018

FERMENTATION


WG MAGAZINE

The care and attention of André Chiang’s research over the last decade, which took months to craft every single of his unique fermented juices “Jus des idées”. By creating a brand new pairing experience, a collection of fermented juices with astringency, smoky, grassy or creamy flavours and textures give the winelike sensation of full taste, body and aroma. WG March 2018 -

47


ANDRÉ CHIANG

14 February 2018… “I never thought that this day would come so soon, but my inner calling has grown stronger every year. My vision is clear, and that is to be a part of Asia’s food education for young chefs”

14 February 2018… “I never thought that this day would come so soon, but my inner calling has grown stronger every year. My vision is clear, and that is to be a part of Asia’s food education for young chefs, returning to my homeland where I have never physically lived for the past 25 years, and more. I endeavor to spend more time with my Chefs, take good care of all 7 of our restaurants in the Restaurant ANDRE group (Restaurant ANDRE / Burnt Ends / MeatSmith / Bincho / Porte 12 (Paris) / RAW (Taipei) / The Bridge (Chengdu), and 3 new upcoming projects set to open by the end of 2018” adds André Chiang. Restaurant André and André Chiang leaves behind a decade long legacy in Singapore. His vision for the next 5 to10 years is to devote himself and his experience to lead the food education in Asia, strengthen the Taiwanese culinary heritage and identity, and advocate on the shortage of food variety and food wastage. Most importantly, he will push RAW’s Taiwanese approach to the world. “Singapore, this is not goodbye, for I am not leaving. A new beginning is set to open at the original location of Restaurant André that will see a brand new and exciting transformation. We are planning a new category of cuisine and concept after the closure of Restaurant André” adds André Chiang.

48 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

PURPLE CYLINDER

WG March 2018 -

49


REIF OTHMAN

REIF OTHMAN FROM ZUMA TO PLAY AND THE EXPERIENCE… IT’S SUMOSAN AT THE BILLIONAIRE MANSION!

Reif Othman joins the ex F1 team boss Flavio Briatore’s Billionaire Life Group as Executive Chef and Business Partner of Sumosan. A self-motivator who pushes himself to achieve more. Reif brings something more and different to the table, showing that he can do much more than just cook a piece of steak and plate it. His simplicity, passion and moving away from the conventional ways of doing things and reinventing the wheel. Being creative and drawing inspirations from around the world.

50 - WG March 2018

PHOTO © VICTORIA SHASHIRIN


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

51


REIF OTHMAN

52 - WG March 2018

PHOTO © ADORIZON CREATIVE SOLUTIONS


WG MAGAZINE

Reif Othman has caused quite a stir since 2009, transforming the culinary landscape of Dubai and the U.A.E. Reif began gaining international recognition for his culinary talents in 2007 when working with One Rochester Group in Singapore as Group Executive Chef for some of the city’s top restaurants and hotels. In 2009, Reif joined the Zuma Dubai team as Executive Chef and quickly moved up the ladder as he displayed extensive talent being both creative and disciplined in the kitchen, finding inspiration in all types of cuisines. His culinary excellence helped establish Zuma as one of the most renowned restaurants in Dubai. WG has a brief moment with Reif Othman… Your new role at Billionaire Life Group… As the Executive Chef and Business Partner, my task is to develop the menu for Sumosan in Dubai, London, Monaco and future openings. And to ensure to uplift the brand at Sumosan.

WG March 2018 -

53


REIF OTHMAN

Sumosan is a Wolkow family business which started in 1997 and it’s known for its Signature Japanese Cuisine… this would be a comfort zone for you as with your success at Zuma and your exquisite “Meditterasian” concept at Play & The Experience, what would be your trademark at Sumosan and would we be seeing a sensory experience New Style cuisine evolving at Sumosan? At the moment, the existing menu at Sumosan is very clean and simple. I will be adding and playing around with textures and new flavours. There is no copying Play and Zuma, as the two are very different from Sumosan. In terms of clientele and palate. Sumosan has its own identity which will be further explored and enhanced with the new dishes that me and my team will be creating. However, you will find that a lot of restaurants are serving similar dishes but putting their own twist in that particular dish. You can find a black cod dish in almost every restaurant in Dubai, but every chef will have his own interpretation of how the dish should be served and presented. Is there an Omakase menu at Sumosan? For sure it will be introduced eventually and you’ve just got to wait until it’s revealed.

54 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

Reif guides you on an unforgettable journey, through endless delectable dishes, overflowing exceptional entrées and innovative ingredients fused to perfection through his unique cooking style...

PHOTO © ADORIZON CREATIVE SOLUTIONS

WG March 2018 -

55


REIF OTHMAN

56 - WG March 2018

PHOTO © ADORIZON CREATIVE SOLUTIONS


WG MAGAZINE

Your partnership at Billionaire Life Group with former F1 team boss Flavio Briatore... I am truly blessed to be part of the Billionaire Life Group and to lift the profile of his Japanese arm of the business. I love the fact that it further challenges me to create new dishes and to grow the brand. Flavio has placed his trust in me, to grow the brand and to oversee the future expansions of Sumosan to other regions. A very impressive trait I find about Flavio which I have in common - to invest in the people he works with. He believes that the people make the business.

WG March 2018 -

57


REIF OTHMAN

PHOTO © ADORIZON CREATIVE SOLUTIONS

“Reif ’s culinary creations are without limits, as he takes his guest on a sensory expedition and gastronomic journey through a perfectly balanced one-of-a-kind cuisine”

With much success at PLAY, in 2016, Reif launched his most intimate creation – ‘The Experience’, where he unleashed his captivating, and mindblowing culinary experience to Dubai’s elite. The revolutionary concept and a fresh look on the traditional chef’s table. The exclusive 12 seater where one felt that they were transcended to someone’s magnificent living room. The bespoke menu was tailor made to suit the appetite, giving guests an interactive experience with the chef and the food; bringing forth an engaging atmosphere, which resulted in a one-of-a-kind dining extravaganza. A concoction of exquisite flavours that fuse East and West - based on techniques, fine ingredients composed of the freshest produce with an impeccable balance with his Meditterasian concept.

Reif’s culinary creations are without limits, as he takes his guest on a sensory expedition and With a disciplined kitchen and his creative gastronomic journey through a perfectly balanced inspirations, Reif stirred Zuma Dubai for four one-of-a-kind cuisine. All this goes down to his consecutive years on the San Pellegrino World’s Best early experiences in the kitchen, “I first started Restaurants. “Then it was the biggest achievement cooking at the age of 14, helping my mom in the for me, the hard work and my dedication to Zuma kitchen. I would cut and wash the vegetables, for which paid off. Consistency was the key to this lunch or dinner, I would make the pastry and do the baking. My first kitchen experience was with my success” adds Reif. mom, in her food stall, preparing our traditional In 2015, Reif moved on from this role as Regional Javanese cuisine (a mix of Indonesian and Executive Chef at Zuma - Dubai and Abu Dhabi, Malaysian cuisine).” Later he went on to learn with for the opportunity to propel his culinary career to Violet Oon, a Singaporean chef doing Peranakan new heights as the Director of Culinary at R.A.W. cuisine. Reif recalls Violet Oon mentoring him and Galadari Holdings & Absolute F&B Facilities saw the potential he had which gave him the drive Management with PLAY. to be where he is right now.

58 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

PHOTO © ADORIZON CREATIVE SOLUTIONS

WG March 2018 -

59


ALAIN PASSARD

Born in the village of La Guerche de Bretagne, alongside Louise Passard, his gastronome grandmother, that Alain got his first taste of cooking and life in the kitchen. Together around the fire, Louise Passard’s stomping ground, culinary secrets swap hands. Having witnessed the passion inhabited by her grandson, Louise Passard shares with him the joys of entertaining, the market frenzy, preparation fever and all that makes a meal a memorable event. And it was at the local baker of La Guerche, where Alain senses an unbridled desire to become an apprentice at the age of 10.

ALAIN PASSARD

VISIONARY CHEF

60 - WG March 2018

A chef who has been viscerally bound to his burners for the past 30+ years. He seeks relentlessly, with each movement and with the utmost respect to bring out the best in his subject. By preserving its colour, essence, hues and scent, Alain restores purity to the product. Roasting is no secret to Alain Passard. The talent that his grandmother passed down to him and this passion for the flame were the key ingredients behind the long-time success of his slow-cooked choice meats. In the early 2000’s, the chef provokes a break in his creativity and decides to concentrate on a vegetable oriented cuisine. The art of the open flame will guide his work on the vegetables as well. Today, he applies this fascination and know-how to the vegetables he roasts, grills or flambés… Working the art of an open flame stays crucial ”Learn how to travel delicately with your pan on the open flame guaranties texture, taste, colour, light and transparency with your vegetables.” Alain Passard plays particularly with colours, perfumes, savoury with the vegetable kingdom. Working with vegetables is, in a way, an incentive to replant the earth and to tackle a new language, it’s a different vocabulary.


WG MAGAZINE

PHOTO © DOUGLAS MC WALL

WG March 2018 -

61


ALAIN PASSARD

62 - WG March 2018

GRATIN D’OIGNON PHOTO © AURORE DELIGNY


WG MAGAZINE

VELOUTÉ PHOTO © AURORE DELIGNY

It is from this desire to work with quality products that the 3 kitchen gardens of L’Arpège came into being. The first took root in 2002 in the soil of Sarthe, the second in 2005 at Eure and the third in 2008 in Manche. Three gardens in three different regions giving the respective vegetables a soilsuffused signature: sand in the Sarthe for carrots, asparagus and leeks; clay in the Eure for celeriac and cabbage, and lastly, alluvia in the Manche for aromatic herbs. “Between the gardeners and me, we discuss carrots and beetroot like others speak of Chardonnay and Cabernet!” On a peculiar note: today, it is the only restaurant to self-manage its vegetable, herb and red and black fruit production. Gardeners are scattered across the trio’s combined vegetable gardens (six gardeners work at the vegetable garden in Fille sur Sarthe. Three people look after the vegetable garden in Bois-Giroult, the last one in Porteaux located opposite Mont St. Michel bay which has its own orchard) all working to meet the demands of the restaurant. To keep both these gardens and the soil in mint condition, it is not unlikely to come across a pair of donkeys and a couple of mares in addition to a few cows, some hens, a goat, etc. Alain Passard made his debut at Le Lion d’Or of Liffré from 1971 to 1975 under Michel Kéréver, one of the rare “starred” Bretons of his time. During this time, technique is on the menu. He learns the fundamentals of classic cuisine. WG March 2018 -

63


ALAIN PASSARD

TARTELETTES POTAGÈRES PHOTO © DOUGLAS MC WALL

“I grow my own vegetables to be able to tell a story from the grain to the plate”

He makes his entrance at La Chaumière in 1975, under the command of Gaston Boyer. Gaston Boyer’s cuisine reflects an unyielding allegiance to culinary classicism, a lasting souvenir for Alain of a “fine dining establishment.” The encounter with Alain Senderens of L’Archestrate in 1977 takes on another dimension. There, an unprecedented ambiance reigns. In the throes of a small kitchen is the team led by Alain Senderens. Alain Passard feels the heat of this baptism by fire where the tie to the flame is omnipresent. After three years spent in this effervescence, his career takes flight. In 1980 at Le Duc d’Enghien within the Enghien Casino, Alain Passard was 26 years old when he obtains two Michelin stars. The sky is within reach, and it is shortly after his arrival at the Carlton of Brussels in 1984 where he pockets one then two Michelin stars. At last, he creates Arpège, formerly L’Archestrate belonging to his mentor, Alain Senderens. Located on the corner of rue de Varenne and rue de Bourgogne. He baptizes it in tribute to his second passion, his love for music, and he opts for an Art Deco style interior, an atmosphere of which he is particularly fond.

64 - WG March 2018

PHOTO © MICHAEL GRAYDON


WG MAGAZINE

TAGLIATELLES DE CÉLERI PHOTO ©DOSSANTOS LEMONE

WG March 2018 -

65


ALAIN PASSARD

TARTE BOUQUET DE ROSES PHOTO © BERHNARD WINKELMANN

The Tarte Bouquet de Roses® - Late 2007, Alain Passard introduced the Tarte Bouquet de Roses®. Patent-protected, one of-a-kind creation, he sought to transform a simple and universally-known product, representative of French cuisine and its origins, into an exquisite dessert for both tasting and viewing pleasure. The extraordinary resides in the physical aspect, the form, and of course, needless to say, the flavour the taste buds delight in every moment of this mouthwatering journey. Be it in the textural twist of melting and crispy terrain or in the succulent stroll from sweet to sour, nothing is lacking.

66 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

PHOTO © STÉPHANIE FRAISSE

WG March 2018 -

67


ALAIN PASSARD

“Vegetable Collection”

The end of 2001 marked the beginning of this vegetable-inspired collection. Like a fashion designer, Alain Passard plans his menu based on the seasons, serving his guests only the vegetables of his labor. Conscious and respectful of nature’s volatility, he prides himself on proposing rich, naturally-tasting and organically-grown products.

68 - WG March 2018

POMMES DE TERRES ET CHOU VERT AU VIN JAUNE PHOTO © THOMAS COLLIN


WG MAGAZINE

This explains why each month, each week offers up its in-season batch of vegetal creations, innovations and variety. Backed by artisans, farmers and carefully selected hand-picked products, Alain Passard is on a perpetual hunt to please palates, breaking free from the menu “mold”, he improvises… and surprises!

CHOUS ROUGE POMME & OIGNONS

WG March 2018 -

69


ALAIN PASSARD

70 - WG March 2018

PHOTO © MAX DERHY


WG MAGAZINE

Come the tenth anniversary in 1996 since the opening of his restaurant, he receives his third Michelin star. Alain Passard’s quest for perfection is no less intense in the decoration of his dining room than in the heart of each course; he craves continual harmony. Running along the walls is the bark of a pear tree undulating in time with the Laliquecrystal Bacchanales. The smooth leather-dressed chairs adhere to the club decor. The mood is set, the line sleek and pure. Jean-Christophe Plantrou, author of the pear tree bark, works closely with Alain to punctuate the space with Makassar wood furnishings.

The windows - glass waves concocted by none other than Bernard Pictet contrasted with the clarity of a Venetian sheen, flirt with daylight. The stained glass window composed in part from a collage made by the chef himself entitled “Green Curry Eggplant” reserves a magnificent red carpet welcome due to its intense colours in this temple devoted to vegetable cuisine. WG March 2018 -

71


NICK BRIL

NICK BRIL

MUSICAL PASSION ON A PLATE

72 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

TEXT HANGAR-7 PHOTO © HELGE KIRCHBERGER PHOTOGRAPHY / RED BULL HANGAR-7

WG March 2018 -

73


NICK BRIL

74 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

Nick Bril began his career in restaurants as a dishwasher at the tender age of 14. A year later he was offered the chance to help in the kitchen where, as he says, he caught the ‘gastronomy bug’. He soon realised that he had to make a decision if he wanted to follow his heart and embarked on a highquality culinary education in Bruges followed by internships at several Michelin-starred restaurants in the Netherlands, such as De Kurhaus, Chateau St. Gerlach and De Librije. At the age of 19, Nick began working for three Michelin-starred chef Sergio Herman’s Oud Sluis restaurant and “became infected by the rock & roll virus”. This essentially means working extremely hard, trying to be incredibly close to perfection and at the same time creating an easy-going, chilled ambiance far removed from the stiff and frigid atmosphere that pervades many restaurants at this level. NICK BRIL AND MARTIN KLEIN

WG March 2018 -

75


NICK BRIL

NICK BRIL AND MARTIN KLEIN

“Nick is a music fan who expresses his creativity as a DJ on the side. For him, gastronomy and music are a symbiosis of his overall perception of life and love”

True, the Oud Sluis restaurant was a Michelinstarred restaurant but it was passionate, exciting and young-spirited. Nick left Oud Sluis after four years and became the head chef of the Envy restaurant in Amsterdam, though only for a year. He decided to return to Oud Sluis to take on the role of head chef alongside Sergio Herman. At the time, he was only 24 years old… And then, almost five years ago, Nick and Sergio decided to start a brand new business together in Antwerp: The Jane. The Jane restaurant opened in 2014, gaining its first Michelin star that same year, after only 8 months, followed by a second in 2015. The restaurant is an amazing blend of world-class gastronomy, accessible to a broad public, young and old, foodies or guests taking their first steps in gastronomy. In his rare spare time, Nick is a music fan who expresses his creativity as a DJ on the side. For him, gastronomy and music are a symbiosis of his overall perception of life and love. Besides awesome food and Nick’s music, the whole ambiance of the restaurant is perfectly in tune with the design and the interior. All the senses are opened wide on entering the restaurant and stay open, which is exactly what Nick and Sergio wanted to achieve and share with their guests.

76 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

77


NICK BRIL

78 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

“I’m 33 now and still at the beginning of my career. I have a very strong, clear vision and I don’t want to focus only on being a chef. We are collaborating with a number of artists and have been present at several festivals because we believe it’s important to share the experience of our food and philosophy with as many different people as we can. I also travel extensively around the world because I want to discover other cultures, continue my development and be inspired by other people, ingredients, flavours, etc. When I return to The Jane, I always have lots of new ideas for the restaurant and bar. The mixture of fine dining, artists and designers makes my job as an entrepreneur one of the most thrilling and challenging jobs imaginable. It’s not only my ‘duty’ but my desire to convey this feeling to the guests. They will feel, see, taste, smell and hear my vibes on the plate.” Connoisseurs of food and music interested in experiencing a kaleidoscope of sensations can join Nick Bril when he brings his joint passions to Restaurant Ikarus in Hangar-7 during his tenure as guest chef in March 2018. WG March 2018 -

79


ONNO KOKMEIJER

80 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

At the age of 9 or 10, Onno knew that he wanted to be a cook. His father was part of the inspiration since he loved to cook at home especially during the weekends and at that time Onno use to help in the kitchen. His father taught him all about ingredients and cooking. At 12 he joined a culinary school in the norther part of The Netherlands and two years later he had to make a choice whether he wanted to pursue cooking and serving or the bakery and patisserie, it was easy choice and he chose to further with cooking and serving.

ONNO KOKMEIJER

DUTCH MASTER CHEF

In 2003, Onno Kokmeijer started at Ciel Bleu, Hotel Okura Amsterdam, and immediately took Arjan Speelman as his right-hand man. Since their friendship dates back to their college days, when they worked together during various traineeships. The mutual respect grew and they realized they could learn a lot from each other. Thus, a bond of trust has grown. Onno and Arjan proved to be a great team. Although they are opposites, they complement each other perfectly. Chef the Cuisine Arjan is creative and concentrates on combining flavours. The approach of Onno is more practical: he makes sure that any dish can be prepared every night, even when the restaurant is fully booked. Onno refines the recipes and focuses on the visual aspects – the arrangement on the plate, the type of tableware, and the way of serving. This difference between Onno and Arjan’s way of thinking results in the most creative recipes. WG March 2018 -

81


ONNO KOKMEIJER

CIEL BLEU

Since his appointment at Ciel Bleu, the restaurant looked different than it does nowadays. His ambition to bring innovation to the culinary concept of the former classic French restaurant and the first step to achieving this was enlarging the menus and making over the interior.” And so it happened. In the summer of 2007, right before Michelin awarded the restaurant its second star, the interior of Ciel Bleu Restaurant was completely renovated. A Chef’s Table was created, making a long-time dream of Onno Kokmeijer come true: “Guests can now literally watch the ambitious kitchen team in action, a great chance for us to have personal interaction with our guests.” Not only the restaurant got a complete makeover; the culinary concept also got a new boost. The chef lets go of the classic French cuisine and introduces a more innovative way of cooking. Inspirations of different cuisines, travelling to other countries, spending a lot of time in the kitchen and continuously innovating to overwhelm his guests. It’s not just the food that has to be surprising; it’s about the total experience. ONNO KOKMEIJER AND ARJAN SPEELMAN

82 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

VIRGIN OYSTER KING CRAB

WG March 2018 -

83


ONNO KOKMEIJER

84 - WG March 2018

LANGOUSTINE


WG MAGAZINE

“ the guest decides who we are and what we do, since they are the key to success”

WG catches up with Onno Kokmeijer…

OESTER

Your cuisine draws its inspiration from international cuisine and cooking techniques, best produce and a composition of flavors brought in perfect harmony - how do you bring about this balance on a plate? In The Netherlands we have four seasons, which is a unique feature of the country, because every season has its own outstanding products. We serve an international cuisine, in which we try to find a balance between local/Dutch products and international ingredients and cooking techniques. We prefer to use a Dutch product as the main ingredient in a dish that will be enriched by international influences due to our travel experiences and the international guests who visit Ciel Bleu Restaurant. In the past, we created dishes based on what we thought the guest would like. However, we changed our mind-set: nowadays we create our dishes based on the wishes and preferences of our guests. The guest is in continuous movement and has more knowledge about gastronomy than ever before due to social media and the ease of traveling around the world. At the end, the guest decides who we are and what we do, since they are the key to success.

DUIF

WG March 2018 -

85


ONNO KOKMEIJER

“My culinary philosophy is all about the guest experience”

Your culinary philosophy, and take us through the process you go through to creating a new dish… Creating a new dish is a process of continuously testing and improving before you actually serve it to the guest. Before including it on the menu we do a try-out with our regular guests at the Chefs Table to receive feedback. Sometimes the process of creating a new dish takes 6 to 12 months, because we are missing the final piece. Then we might get inspired by something new that finishes off the dish. One perfect example of a dish that keeps improving is our signature dish: the King Crab. This dish is our signature since 2008 and we continuously improve it. My culinary philosophy is all about the guest experience. Therefore our guests start in the lounge with some bites, where after they will be seated to enjoy the courses as well as the amazing view from the 23rd floor. Ingredients that inspire you... At the moment we are experimenting with spices to create own melanges, like spicy and warm flavours. I am also very inspired by the seasonal products The Netherlands has to offer.

86 - WG March 2018

LANGOUSTINE


WG MAGAZINE

WAGYU

WG March 2018 -

87


ONNO KOKMEIJER

88 - WG March 2018

DUCK


WG MAGAZINE

“One special cooking technique has been discovered in Iceland, which is a method whereby vegetables with little natural water are prepared on a low temperature”

Your favourite ingredients...

REE

Citrus, because the peel or juice is a major added value for the cuisine. Moreover, I like to work with Jerusalem artichoke, celeriac, chervil root and other root vegetables. By preparing root vegetables on a low temperature the natural sugars become slightly caramelised, which gives an intense flavour. Ingredients that you weren’t able to master… We experimented with fresh seaweed from the North Sea, which offers a great variety in the right season. However we did not succeed yet to prepare it in a way that gives an added value to a dish. In our opinion you should serve a product when you are fully convinced by it. However, this product is still in progress. Special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using… One special cooking technique has been discovered in Iceland, which is a method whereby vegetables with little natural water are prepared on a low temperature. The natural sugars become slightly caramelised, which gives an intense flavour that has an added value to a dish. I very much enjoy using the plancha to prepare fish or meat.

DUMPLING

WG March 2018 -

89


ONNO KOKMEIJER

CHEF’S TABLE

Creativity is the continuous process of impulses from your environment, your team...

Produce, Creativity or Technique…

Creativity is the continuous process of impulses from your environment, your team as well as input from your guests and social media. Due to social media the culinary world became a small world, in which everything is visible and tangible. CIEL BLEU TEAM

Two Michelin stars, several awards and accolades… What keeps you motivated? The guest. The direct contact with your guests and receiving their feedback motivates me. Nowadays Amsterdam is a booming city, I feel proud to be part of the culinary aspect of it. I am also very proud of the achievements and recognitions, such as the Gault Millau, Lekker 500 and Michelin rewards. Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, your advice to chefs entering the kitchen for the first time… Find the right balance between work and your private life, and maintain freedom to gain enough impulses to be innovative and creative.

90 - WG March 2018

CIEL BLEU


WG MAGAZINE

CACAO

WG March 2018 -

91


RAMÓN FREIXA

RAMÓN FREIXA

AUTHENTICITY OF FLAVOURS

92 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

93


RAMÓN FREIXA

94 - WG March 2018

PAN SOUFLÉ RELLENO DE TOMATE Y BUTIFARRA


WG MAGAZINE

Ramón Freixa grew up smelling flour and playing games with the customers, pretending to be a shop assistant and a baker at his grandparents’ bakery in small village near Barcelona. His grandparents were bakers and confectioners and his father was a chef, so cooking has always been in his DNA. During his high school years, he started preparing his first desserts with his grandparents, among sugars, creams and hot ovens. Nonetheless, when he was a teenager, he wanted to be a rock star, but was not cut out to sing. Then his life changed with his parents opening a restaurant. After finishing school in Tourism and Hospitality in Barcelona, Ramón worked in some of the best kitchens in Europe, in Belgium at one of the most innovative restaurant La Cuisine des Anges and then went on to work with Nicolas Pequereau, who opened the doors for him at La Truffe Noire and Comme Chez Soi. Before returning back to Barcelona, Ramón was able to hone his skills with Michel Bras and in 1998, Ramón took over the family business, he redesigned and added a modern touch to the menu yet keeping some of his father’s creations.

WG March 2018 -

95


RAMÓN FREIXA

Ramón’s cuisine is based on quality product, excellence and the authenticity of flavours; it is full of references to the traditional but with a modern perspective and uses cutting-edge techniques. WG speaks with Ramón Freixa… Your cuisine is defined by three standards – Technique, Produce & Feeling. A perfect culinary approach that blends tradition and innovation - how do you bring this all together with just a perfect balance on a plate? From the simplest to the most sophisticated, the product is the star of every good dish, the basis of good food and my cuisine. And the culinary knowledge is used to let the product achieve its best through manipulation and metamorphosis. Without feeling you cannot cook well. Creativity comes from emotion and to explain any story this ingredient is essential. The sentiment must be spread and transmitted, in order to thrill the diner. Excellence in detail is my raison d’être, the very core of my being. That is what I want my guests to experience, to allow their senses to revel in my creations. I am a chef of sensations, of feelings, of thought.

96 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

PERLA DE OSTRA ESCABECHADA CON ENSALADA DE ALGAS Y UVA

WG March 2018 -

97


RAMÓN FREIXA

98 - WG March 2018

MIL HOJAS DE CALABAZA Y SEMILLAS COCINADAS SUAVEMENTE.VIEIRAS CON UN CALDO RANCIO DE JAMON. CHALOTAS AL VINO ESPECIADO


WG MAGAZINE

“My cuisine is based on three elements: product, technique and feeling”

Tell us about your previous experiences and how has it helped you as a chef?

RESTAURANT RAMÓN FREIXA

I believe the moment that my parents opened a restaurant, it changed my life forever.... I could define myself as a young foodie. I remember my gastronomic travels with them and my sister. At 7, I was lucky enough to try my first restaurant which was a three Michelin- starred restaurant. The most valuable lesson I have learned from my parents it is to stay faithful to your own way of understanding cuisine and a gastronomic speech, adding three essential ingredients: work, work and work. As painter Pablo Picasso said “inspiration has to find you working.” And by the way, my parents are still running Freixa Tradicio restaurant so the lesson keeps going on. Your culinary philosophy, and take us through the process you go through to creating a new dish… My cuisine is based on three elements: product, technique and feeling. Excellence in detail is my raison d’être, the very core of my being. That is what I want you to experience, to allow your senses to revel in my creations and understand that colour is just as important as flavour, and that flavour is the reason why you are here. I am a chef of sensations, of feelings, of thought.

CARABINERO EN BINOMIO A LA LLAMA Y EN FLAN. PASTA SARDA CON TAMARINDO Y BIMI AL TÉ PU ERH

WG March 2018 -

99


RAMÓN FREIXA

CHURRO CON JAMÓN IBÉRICO Y CAVIAR

Ingredients that inspire you…

In the kitchen of Ramón Freixa there is daring, innovation and wisdom, as well as impeccable technique and a number of visual and sensory tricks. A blend of tradition and avant-garde, madness and common sense in perfect harmony. Each plate has a secret history which is revealed gradually and stylishly and where the main character is always the flavor...

100 - WG March 2018

Chocolate, eggs and tomatoes. These three basic ingredients have marked my life and gaze. Chocolate, because I need a daily dose; eggs because it is the basis of my style of cooking and has greatly influenced my youth; and tomatoes because it forms the foundation of my cuisine as Catalan and Spanish ambassador to the world. Special cooking techniques or equipment you enjoy using… Sous-vide cuisine. Cooking in a temperaturecontrolled steam environment for longer than normal cooking times at an accurately regulated temperature much lower than normally used for cooking. The intent is to cook ensuring that the inside is properly cooked without overcooking the outside, and retains moisture.


WG MAGAZINE

LOS PESCADOS CON R RAPE CURADO EN AGUA DE MAR Y SALSIFIS AL PIL PIL; RAYA CON MANTECA DE PATO COLORÁ Y “GLACE” DE PIQUILLOS

MONTBLANC DE CASTAÑAS CON BALSÁMICOS

WG March 2018 -

101


RAMÓN FREIXA

MONTBLANC DE CASTAÑAS CON BALSÁMICOS

102 - WG March 2018

DULCE ESPERA. VIAJE POR LAS AMÉRICAS


WG MAGAZINE

Two Michelin stars, three Repsol Suns and numerous Spanish and international accolades… the feeling when you received your first Michelin star and what keeps you motivated? You have to stay faithful to a way of understanding cuisine and a gastronomic speech, adding three essential ingredients: work, work and work. As painter Pablo Picasso said: inspiration has to find you working. I usually move between opposites and finding a balance between, for example, chaos and order and tradition and vanguard, is what keeps me open to new concepts, new forms and new ways to tell stories through my dishes. Never forgetting my past, because whoever forgets its past loses its identity. In other words: no evolution without tradition. MONTBLANC DE CASTAÑAS CON BALSÁMICOS

WG March 2018 -

103


NICOLAI NØRREGAARD

104 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

From beech tree forests to urban jungles. From fishing villages to hipster districts: Nicolai Nørregaard leaps effortlessly between worlds. Despite this, the self-made chef always knows exactly where his home is – a small island in the middle of the Baltic Sea. This young Dane’s home is called Bornholm, and to taste one of his compositions is to get a taste of the island itself. For Nørregaard, the rugged island is both a pantry and a meditative retreat – the place where he grounds himself and his cooking while foraging for herbs and mushrooms through the forests, coasts and meadows. No wonder, then, that the first Kadeau location sprang up on Bornholm, and just as unsurprising is its location between the coast and a forest, as the fresh ingredients are grown literally next to the kitchen itself.

NICOLAI NØRREGAARD SELF MADE CHEF

PHOTO © MARIE LOUISE MUNKEGAARD

Since 2011, gourmet enthusiasts have been spared the 97-nautical-mile journey out to Bornholm from Copenhagen, as Kadeau opened another location in the Danish capital. And while Kadeau may call one of the hippest corners of Copenhagen its home, it is still firmly rooted in the island which lies 180 kilometers offshore. Nørregaard had always had a knack for making his guests feel at home – even long before he became a chef. In 2007, a young Nørregaard returned home from Copenhagen and decided to turn his passion into a career and make Bornholm the center of his world. And so the first Kadeau came to be. But it was not long before the Bornholm-native felt the pull back to the mainland and the result of this wanderlust was Kadeau Copenhagen, which was promptly awarded a Michelin star in 2013 and which Nørregaard’s cooking has retained ever since. The second star followed in 2016, this time for Kadeau on Bornholm, proving that the selftaught chef knows exactly what he is doing. WG March 2018 -

105


NICOLAI NØRREGAARD

“I always thought that I would become a designer or an architect, something creative. There was always something creative going on in me” WG speaks with Nicolai Nørregaard...

Chefs find their passion for cooking – tell us how did you find your way into the culinary field to become one of the most sought-after chef!

My background is very different from most chefs. I have no culinary training, and found my way into kitchen by luck more than determination. I grew up in a very culinary family, with a granddad that inspired me to cook, taste and the importance for great produce. He was not a chef, although he didn’t do much else than cook. He grew his own vegetables and fermented his own fish. He was always in the kitchen cooking for everyone who felt like stopping by, me included. Although he passed away many years ago, yet I can still taste his sauces and stews. My grand uncle had a smokehouse. (Smoked herring and salmon is the pride of Bornholm, and the most sought for product of all time. Bornholms has more than 500 small smokehouses – many of them built in private homes – that were all active some 50-100 years ago. Today only a handful are active) My grand uncles “Kowsky’s Smokehouse”

106 - WG March 2018

was one of the last ones to smoke in the old way on open fire and it was considered to be the best smokehouse (lucky me), but unfortunately it had to close when he died ten years ago. So those two influences has been very strong for me. Always surrounded by people with intense passion for culinary craftsmanship and the importance of produce. Food was the number one thing in my family. My mom and dad were divorced, my step dad (who was vegetarian) and my mom moved to a biodynamic self-supplying community (with me of course) which also had its influences. Although it sometimes felt a bit too much of a hippie thing. But today I very much appreciate the philosophy I was brought up with, and I work by those codes today. I always thought that I would become a designer or an architect, something creative. There was always something creative going on in me. But after fooling around, and not being able to find my way it never happened. I worked in restaurants and hotels and simply couldn’t get out of the restaurant business. It was too exiting. I also cooked at functions in my spare time. When we decided to make our own restaurant, I just got stuck in the kitchen – which was the most natural thing in world. I suddenly found my place, and also found a way to let out my creative steam. And I never left it.


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

107


NICOLAI NØRREGAARD

108 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

“My food has always been a little complicated. I value taste over concept, I love the balance of a great meal and in a single dish”

Your cuisine is focused and inspired by a combination of fresh and quality ingredients, creative with the finest produce, creating a composition of flavours which is complex and modest yet impeccably balanced… My food has always been a little complicated. I value taste over concept, I love the balance of a great meal and in a single dish. I usually use a lot of ingredient to increase complexity – but without it being the sole purpose of the dish. The purpose is complexity itself. We don’t tell a lot about how many ingredients we use, but aim to make the food tell its own story. I want to keep it simple and modest but sharp to look at, but complex, fresh and balanced to taste. The combination of all our preserves (we make around 7 tons every year) and the fresh ingredients from our gardens that adds a little creativity is what allows us to do what we do. Tell us about your previous experiences and how has it helped you as a chef? I think I answered a bit of this in earlier but also the fact that Noma (and the other chefs) made the Nordic dogmas a few years previous to the opening of Kadeau Bornholm. This inspired us to jump aboard, and embrace that way of thinking food. But to scale it down and focusing on the island of Bornholm. That gave me the courage and the inspiration to become what I am today (as a chef) and also made us believe that we could actually create a Bornholm terroir kitchen WG March 2018 -

109


NICOLAI NØRREGAARD

Your culinary philosophy, and take us through the process you go through to creating a dish… The most difficult question of all (Nicolai smiles)… My philosophy is to cook a Bornholm terroir kitchen with produce mainly coming from the island. I want to cook complex, tasteful and balanced food. I would very much like to move the guests, but also sometimes push them a little out of their comfort zone. I always want to make tasty food, and try hard to source new ingredient, tastes and techniques. My kitchen is based on the nature of Bornholm, and the preservation of the season. We spend a lot of time on the preservation and I always seek to find new ways of keeping the seasons. Ingredients that inspire you, your favourite ingredients and ingredients you’re unable to master… As the sun gains more power, I feel the urge to cook with fresh ingredients again and start preserving the seasons. I get inspired when nature is starting to wake up after hibernating thru the coldest months. So ingredients right now are still mostly preserves, but we are starting to cook with new shoots and plants. Buds from flowering currants are fantastic right now. If I had to pick one smell of spring, this would be it. Always feels great in the beginning of a season. I love to cook with pinales, such as cones, shoots, blossoms, pollen, barks and needles from fir, pine and spruce. I love the complexity and extremely diverse tastes that it can bring to a dish. I never get tired of it. Too many to mention. And I also try and forget it when it fails. But sometimes we pick up a new ingredient and follow an old trial, and suddenly it works.

110 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

111


NICOLAI NØRREGAARD

112 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

Special cooking techniques… I’m still very happy with our reduced and dried mussel liquorice. We call it that because it tastes a lot like raw liquorice. We make a stock of mussels and reduce it completely. We then dry it and fold it until it gets rock hard. We then grate it on the dish. So intense umami. Produce, Creativity or Technique… I simply can’t name one because one is nothing worth without the other. What is creativity without produce? And what is technique without creativity? All is very important. But I guess creativity is the most difficult thing to achieve. Not everyone can learn to be creative. Everyone can buy or learn how to grow great produce and many can learn to master techniques.

WG March 2018 -

113


NICOLAI NØRREGAARD

What is the feeling to be awarded Michelin stars and what keeps you motivated?

expanding to the countryside. So then again we were totally surprised but super happy to bring a star to our native island. And now getting the second star to Copenhagen is something very special. It makes us very proud and is a great acknowledgment of the work we do.

When we relocated in late 2016 to the smaller but more luxurious site, we knew that we would The feeling of being awarded the first star, it very unwillingly or willingly make a statement that we special (Kadeau Copenhagen 2013, Kadeau were aiming for the second star. I mean, we had Bornholm 2016) It is a solid confirmation of the one star at the old location, and wanted to relocate hard work you do every day. Even though it never to make everything sharper and better. In that was the plan to aim for a Michelin star. When we ambition was also the ambition of more Michelin got the first one in Copenhagen, we had only stars. been open for a few month at the location in Christianshavn, which made it very unlikely and at I have always been motivated by striving to the the same time very surprising. Of course we knew next level. I’m very ambitious, and always want that what we did, might be at a Michelin level. But things to be better and sharper. And there´s always we didn’t expect it, due the fact that we only had things that we can work on to make the food and experience go to the next level. With that comes been open a few month. Michelin stars and a whole lot of other things. But When we received the first one in Bornholm, the most important is to make our guests happy, and guide didn’t review restaurants outside of the two to always work on new techniques and find new biggest cities (Copenhagen and Aarhus), and this produce to work with. In other words, motivation is was very surprising. We didn’t know that they were always there.

114 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

115


NICOLAI NØRREGAARD

116 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

What do you do to stay on top of new cooking trends? I travel a lot, and try to keep on track with trends through reading and social media. I like to believe that I also have a small part in making new trends as well by creating new dishes and finding new ways to cook the produce we find. I like to search new ways more than leaning on what is told to be new. Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, your advice to chefs entering the kitchen for the first time… I agree, the profession is perceived to be glamorous but reality is different. It’s not glamorous at all, it’s hard work. My advice would be to think twice about what you want to achieve with the job. I mean, it’s a lovely job, and personally I’m addicted to both the creative part of it, the service part and the fact that you’re making people happy every day. And that your colleagues become your friends and almost family - In this case, I think that the restaurant business is very unique. If you get recognition, you’ll feel proud and honoured for your hard work, but the pressure will also become bigger, and many chefs start to feel more stress in these situations. You’ll also have to come to terms with the long days and hours away from your family. But all that said, if you can live with the downside and are ready to work hard as hell, then go for it! WG March 2018 -

117


MIKAEL SVENSSON

118 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

MIKAEL SVENSSON

KONTRAST

Born and raised in Skåne, in the countryside among farmers and open landscapes, Mikael was not much into cooking when he was young, and was not sure to pick culinary school. Since he like to eat and always had good food at home he didn’t need to participate too much in the cooking at home. It was at 16 when he had a test week in a kitchen. It is when that the team spirit in the kitchen spoke to him and being into sports, he liked the atmosphere in the kitchen. His career as chef started at school in Kristianstad, he fell in love with cooking and begun to cook. Working in around in both high end places to busy brasseries and seafood restaurants. Mikael started his culinary journey in Le Canard in Oslo, he then moved to Europe and honed his culinary skills in the kitchens of three Michelin star Martin Berasategui and Quique Dacosta, and it is here in Spain where he got the required technical knowledge of cooking. Back to Oslo, Mikael participated in the launch of Grims Grenka restaurants Madu and Tjuvholmen Sjømagasin as the assistant chef for the seafood restaurant where he worked with big grills and live seafood. Aldo did stints in Asian restaurants making dim sums, this was to get a broad experience and to see a lot of different thing and to develop him by doing new things. WG March 2018 -

119


MIKAEL SVENSSON

In 2013, it was time to open his fulfil his dream… “Kontrast is a dream I have had for 15 years. Ever since I decided to become a chef” add Mikael. Kontrast is a modern Scandinavian restaurant with a focus on using ingredients that are both local and at the peak of their season. The main goals is to offer a world class, organic and ethically sourced ingredients from within Norway and to showcase the farmers who produce them. WG catches up with Mikael Svensson… Your cuisine is focused on using ingredients that are local and inspired by a combination of fresh and quality ingredients, creative with the finest produce, creating a composition of flavours which is complex and modest yet impeccably balanced… I work very closely with a few farmers that is close to us, we speak, discuss and together find out when their ingredients peak so I will get the best produce in. Both vegetables and regarding lamb, pigs, goat and ox/cow. Then when it comes in to the kitchen, I already have an idea of what I want to do with these products. Ideas comes from my history, childhood memories and other things in the everyday life I get inspired by. Me and my chef we discuss, test, taste and find the right balance and the contrast in the dish that I want and then we get it on the menu.

120 - WG March 2018

LANGOUSTINE CHAMOMILLE AND GREEN JUNIPER


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

121


MIKAEL SVENSSON

122 - WG March 2018

BEETROOT AND BLACK CURRANT OXALIS


WG MAGAZINE

Your culinary philosophy, and take us through the process of creating a dish… My philosophy is to cook with the season, only to use products that grows in its season and in this region. We do use spices, dry stuff and influences from around the world but the main ingredients are always something from Norway. Either it is in season or it something we preserved for the winter. That is where I start with an ingredient in its right season, then my thinking process and testing process begins. Sometimes it goes quick, but I’m always searching for the right feeling in a dish. It has to be tasty, interesting for me and for the guest. And most of the time I’m searching to create a contrast in the food, that is also why I did choose the name of the restaurant. I have a lot of dishes I’m happy with that I created but I think my best dish is still to come. Ingredients that inspire you, your favourite ingredients and those you were unable to master… We found out last year that wild parsnip flowers has a flavour that reminds you of coconut. I think this is very interesting. So we picked a lot during the summer and dried it. Now I have it paired with fermented plum-compote, grilled goat-kid and a sauce flavoured with the dried flowers. This gives you a very “exotic” goat dish but still is very Nordic and cooked just with regional products. It changes all the time, I love the fact that we have the different seasons so we always get something new to cook with. I would be bored to cook with the same fish during the whole year for example. Pumpkin, is something that doesn’t work for me. I love making myself a good spicy pumpkin soup at home, but I can’t get it to work in the menu. Pumpkin seeds I love but the vegetable itself is gives me problem. KONTRAST

WG March 2018 -

123


MIKAEL SVENSSON

“For me it is a combination of my history, childhood, what my food memory is, the produce we get, my curiosity and restlessness” Special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using… Grilling on charcoal, I love how versatile it is, high heat, low heat, smoky, almost no smoke. The caramelisation it gives to seafood, fish, meat, vegetables dairy products. I love grilling and the flavours. Produce, Creativity or Technique… Produce, it always starts with the produce for me. Great ingredients give great food. I’m a cook, not a magician, I can cook great food with great ingredients, meaning it is good quality even if it is “just” a carrot. But I can’t turn a tasteless watery, bad ingredient to taste great, it will in the end just be ok. What is your greatest influence in the kitchen? I don’t think I have one. For me it is a combination of my history, childhood, what my food memory is, the produce we get, my curiosity and restlessness. I always want to go forward but still be influenced of what I have experienced.

124 - WG March 2018

SAISONNIER SCHORSENEER


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

125


MIKAEL SVENSSON

126 - WG March 2018

APPLE DESSERT


WG MAGAZINE

“Meeting a happy guest after their dinner is very rewarding. After all, we cook for the guests not for the awards”

What is the feeling to be awarded the Michelin star again in 2018 and what keeps you motivated? We got the first star in 2016 and this is the 3rd time we get it. But it is always a great feeling. It is a great compliment of the hard work we all do in the restaurant every day and good motivation boost. But we are here cooking for our guests, and having so many people who want to come here and eat my food, and this is a fantastic motivation. Meeting a happy guest after their dinner is very rewarding. After all, we cook for the guests not for the awards. Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, your advice to young chefs… To forget everything they see on TV, that one hour show is the result of years of hard work. Doesn’t matter if it is cooking, football or any other sport or profession, if you want to be good at something you have to put in the hard work. No one will give it to you, you have to work for it. But remember to have fun along the way. JORDSKOKK

WG March 2018 -

127


DAMIAN QUINTANA

DAMIAN QUINTANA AT THE STUDIO…

PHOTO © SIGNE RODERIK

Born in Patagonia in Southern Chile, where food culture has a major influence. Ever since Damian was 8, his father took him out fishing and hunting. At his first fishing trip Damian caught his fish and the rush he got when he cooked and ate the fish. This interest became a passion for food and Damian began to follow his dream of being a chef. This was just the very beginning, but later he started cooking with his grandmother. Damian recalls “We had a big garden in our backyard with a lot of animals, (pigs and chickens). I clearly remember the first time I saw a pig being killed, it was rather quite early and it gave me respect for food. I saw where it came from, and got a feeling of what it was. I didn’t go to the supermarket to buy eggs, I collected them from the chickens in the garden.” This upbringing made him understand the importance of using vegetables as well as meats.

128 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

129


DAMIAN QUINTANA

130 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

“Damian got the opportunity to create his own expressions, deeply founded in Nordic cuisine, but at the same time his interpretation of his own cultural heritage which is presented in both taste and techniques as well as colors” After school, Damian moved to Northern Chile to studying gastronomy, and shortly after completing his education, he travelled around the world and working at some of the best kitchens in New Zealand, Australia, England and France. Damian’s culinary journey in Denmark started in Norma “Noma was one of his biggest work experiences. It gave him a better understanding of seasonality and being much more connected to the environment” adds Damian. He later on went on to work at the two Michelin star AOC and the one Michelin star Marchal at D’Angleterre. While in Copenhagen he met Torsten Vildgaard, who soon became a close friend and colleague and Torsten asked Damian to join him at Studio as his sous chef and right hand. Their mutual respect for food was what brought them together. In September 2017, Damian took over the role as head chef of Studio. As head chef of Studio, Damian got the opportunity to create his own expressions, deeply founded in Nordic cuisine, but at the same time his interpretation of his own cultural heritage which is presented in both taste and techniques as well as colors. WG March 2018 -

131


DAMIAN QUINTANA

“When I close my eyes, I see everything in colors from and I try to express them through different textures. The colors make sense to me and I always play with colors”

A cuisine focused and inspired by fresh and quality ingredients, working with produce around specific seasons and a combination of products by their colors to create a balance “When I close my eyes, I see everything in colors from and I try to express them through different textures. The colors make sense to me and I always play with colors. When I need inspiration, I’ll go for a walk in the nature or anywhere else, where I see natural combinations of colors. I know the combinations of the flavors so well, that I do the combination from the colors” adds Damian. WG catches up with Damian Quintana… Take us through the process of creating a dish… One of my favorite dishes I have created is one of our current desserts at Studio consisting of a cep (Karl Johan mushroom) and roasted almond praline, pine shoots, lemon thyme leafs, roasted almond ice cream, cep oil, 12 year old balsamic vinegar and cep caramel. I love ceps and mushroom and when you roast them on a pan it starts smelling like almonds. That smell reminds me of a hazelnut ice cream I had long time ago. So, I thought, how can I combine the ceps with almonds and ice cream? I like bringing savory techniques and products into the sweet kitchen and surprise people with flavors they haven’t tasted in a certain context before. I’ll always try to find the edge.

132 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

133


DAMIAN QUINTANA

134 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

Ingredients that inspire you, your favorite ingredients and those you were unable to work with… Right now, I’m working a lot with celeriac and nutmeg flowers. The celeriac is very Nordic and is in season right now – I tried it along with nutmeg and found the combination unique. The nutmeg flowers are much more light, floral and elegant than the actual nutmeg, so I have incorporated that in my work recently. I really enjoy working with shellfish which you can clearly see on the menu at Studio. Especially scallops. I love their creaminess and their very light taste of brine. I love quinces because of its floral taste, but the problem with them is they have this stone flavour. The texture can easily become sandy. You will often see people make puree out of it, but I would like to make slices, but I haven’t cracked the code yet of how to manage to get the right structure without getting this sandy texture and stone-ish flavour. I’ll keep working on it though. Any kitchen equipment you particular enjoy using… I really enjoy using my Limfjord Oyster knife which you can only get in Denmark. And then I have a thing for grilling. WG March 2018 -

135


DAMIAN QUINTANA

“You don’t have to do much if you have good products, they speak for themselves”

Produce, Creativity or Technique…

I would say the products. They can speak for themselves. You don’t have to do much if you have good products – one of my favourite food from home is raw scallops with lime on it. Simple as that. From there you can do a whole lot of magic adding creativity and different techniques, but you come a long way with good products. What is the feeling to be awarded a Michelin star and what keeps you motivated? The feeling was almost surreal – it was everything I fought for in my whole career. What keeps me going is maintaining our level and keep getting a little better every day. I have the most amazing team and we keep each other motivated every single day. How do you stay on top of new cooking trends? I do more to make my own cooking trends than to follow others. I’m working very much from my memories back home in Chile and other places I lived before I came to Denmark. I rarely look at what others do. Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, any advice to chefs entering the kitchen for the first time… First – do not focus on the glamour, which is not going to happen for a whole lot of years. Learn and have fun. My best advice is not to give up because of a bad day. I had a whole bunch of them, but it will all be worth it in the end.

136 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

137


HENRIK YDE-ANDERSEN

HENRIK YDE-ANDERSEN WESTERN TOUCH TO THAI CUISINE A culinary journey that started at an early age, as a junior, Henrik was well-trained in traditional French cuisine and he experienced working across Europe. Life destined him to the world of Thai and Asian cuisine and his very own innovative modern Thai restaurant, Kiin Kiin, in Copenhagen. This open-minded innovative Danish chef fell in love with Thai cuisine during a trip to Thailand in 2000. The holiday, which was planned for three weeks, became a life changing one as he stayed on for the next five years. Living, working and travelling across the country to learn more about Thai cuisine. “I arrive at Krabi - one of the most famous Thai beaches and had a chance to try for the first time Kai Palo (Five Spice Pork and Egg Stew) from a roadside food stall which left me with a remarkable flavourful taste and led me to the world of Thai culinary, it was destiny” says Henrik on how his Thai culinary journey begun. “Time flies really fast, I enjoyed myself working as a helper in local restaurants’ kitchen and didn’t realize that I spent five years in this amazing country before flying back home in 2005 to open my first Thai restaurant “Aroii Thai” in August 2006, a takeaway, offering popular Thai dishes. In 2006, I teamed with Lertchai Treetawatchaiwong, a Thai entrepreneur and hobby chef to open Kiin Kiin, a Thai restaurant with a twist.”

138 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

139


HENRIK YDE-ANDERSEN

140 - WG March 2018

TOM YUM SOUP DIY


WG MAGAZINE

With passion and strong belief, Henrik took Thai cuisine from a popular street food level to a fine dining with Kiin Kiin. This modern Thai fine dining restaurant was awarded one Micheline star in 2008 and has kept it since. Henrik incorporates the art of western cooking techniques into the original recipes, while preserving the Thai tastes. Behind beautifully composed food presentations, the familiar flavours of original Thai dishes are maintained. In 2009, during a promotional tour to Bangkok, Henrik was approached by the pre-opening team of Siam Kempinski Hotel, who happened to sample his food by pure chance. The team offered him the opportunity to open a Thai restaurant based on the same concept as Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen and Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin was born in October 2010. Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin opened to impress even the most savvy Thai food connoisseurs with their modern interpretation of traditional Thai cuisine.

WG March 2018 -

141


HENRIK YDE-ANDERSEN

SALAD COTTON CANDY RED SNAPPER

WG catches up with Henrik Yde-Andersen‌

Henrik incorporates the art of western cooking techniques into the original recipes, while preserving the Thai tastes. Behind beautifully composed food presentations, the familiar flavours of original Thai dishes are maintained... 142 - WG March 2018

Tell us how you found your way into the culinary field to become one of the most sought-after chef! I started working as a dish washer at a local restaurant to earn some pocket money, the atmosphere in the kitchen was really fun and I loved the idea of fresh produce coming in the morning and by night it was all gone. But I also hated that most of the Michelin restaurants seemed to have their business model based on the 7 deadly sins, and I have worked under too many young screaming chefs, who did management by fear and had zero skills in how to lead a team. So when I was 30, I quit my job and went for a one week holiday in Thailand. I sampled the food and it was love at first bite, I was sitting at the restaurant crying because it was so spicy, the next morning I went to the restaurant and asked if I could learn and do a little stage, one week became five years.


WG MAGAZINE

QUAIL IN COCONUT MILK

VEAL WITH LEMON GRASS

WG March 2018 -

143


HENRIK YDE-ANDERSEN

144 - WG March 2018

FROZEN RED CURRY WITH LOBSTER SALAD


WG MAGAZINE

Your unique Thai-inspired modern concept, a composition of flavours which is complex and modest yet impeccably balanced - how do you bring about this balance on a plate?

PETIT FOUR

Thai cooking is all about balance. One of the most famous dishes is the tom yam soup, it’s so easy to make but also very easy to get it wrong. Thai’s have long ago nailed the full balance by using fish sauce in the food, a very popular and deep umami enhancer Your experience with Thai cuisine which helped you as a chef…

TUNA TARTAR WITH SESAME AND SOY SAUCE

I was trained in classic Thai cooking but choose to also train and become a sommelier. This is my strongest asset as I can do all aspect of running a restaurant, many chefs ignore the wine and drinks program as it is half the revenue. I like to be in control and mastering both sides is a strong benefit for understanding was goes on both sides The process you go through to creating a dish… We do a modernized version of Thai dishes so eating my way through a lot of street food gives good inspiration. In Denmark we have four seasons so they pretty much dictate what we serve. I find it stupid to fly fish or vegetables all the way from Bangkok to Denmark, so the use of local vegetables, fish and meat and then there is a lot of trial and error. But the menu is based on the way a Thai dinner is set up, always a soup a curry a spicy salad and so on.

SOUFFLE PISTACHIO

WG March 2018 -

145


HENRIK YDE-ANDERSEN

Ingredients that inspire you and favorite ingredients… Lime juice, acidity is the electricity in food whether it from citrus, milk or vegetable fermentation. Spring is on the way so anything basically, we have been working a lot with flowers recently making essence of hip rose etc to create more perfumed notes. Oysters, you can serve them raw or ferment them to Asian oyster sauce, they are so full of flavor. Your greatest influence in the kitchen… I try not to be like other chefs, many chefs have the window open for 5 to 6 years where they cook on top of their game, after that a new young chef will take their place, so it is important not to think in the past, and never get stuck with oh this is how I was taught 30 years ago and it is the only way. My mentors have all burnt out in early age, so it’s important to stay current and that your team is there, I do not care where the chef cooked last year or what he served yesterday, the plate is right now right here. How do you stay on top of new cooking trends? In Denmark, we are very lucky to have some of the most trend setting restaurants at the moment and you have to be up early to stay ahead. At the same time the ideas and trends are right in front of you, my new restaurant is vegan on a high level. Veve.dk and that is a trend that will very soon be mainstream.

146 - WG March 2018

DESSERT


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

147


MORTEN KROGHOLM

Morten’s passion for cooking began at a young age, inspired by his grandmother. He joined her kitchen as she always cooked at big family gatherings and also cooked for others in the neighborhood. He started helping friends cook for different events and at 15 he started his apprenticeship and then took off to work in some of the country’s best restaurants.

MORTEN KROGHOLM PURE TASTE OF DENMARK

148 - WG March 2018

Morten believes “Food is one of the most beautiful things in the world - it stands and speaks entirely for itself.” His cuisine style is based on four elements: Nature - Simplicity - Taste - Dane. His gastronomic interpretations is when he can do something that his guests do not recognize but they go back to their childhood memories and experiences just by a recognizable scent or dish itself. Danish cuisine says so much about where he comes from. He gets his inspiration from all around the country to his little kitchen, right from known dishes to the more exotic regional dishes from the dark corners of Denmark. He focuses on getting the ingredients to speak for itself, the search for pure taste of Denmark.


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

149


MORTEN KROGHOLM

150 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

Danish kitchen is very simple in its expression and therefore it is also a challenge to rediscover and be unique in a new expression while still maintaining the joy of recognition. “It is such a challenge to mix it up and make it unique with new expressions, while still preserving the joy of recognition. It is absolutely crucial to me, and ultimately the result on the plate that behind each ingredient and each product hides the same soul and love that I put myself in preparing the food.”

WG catches up Morten Krogholm… Your culinary philosophy, and take us through the process you go through to creating a dish… My personal mission and baseline is highlighting and respecting the individual ingredients and to then make them enter into new and higher levels of harmony. Familiar flavors in an unfamiliar context. At the top of my head, I would have to say that my favorite dish is my scallop, green strawberries and buttermilk dish that we previously had on our menu. The dish is an interpretation of a Danish classic dish - strawberries with cream. When creating this dish I especially focused on the Danish kitchen and Danish ingredients and the old-fashioned Danish cooking techniques of pickling and smoking.

WG March 2018 -

151


MORTEN KROGHOLM

Tell us about your previous experience and how has it helped you as a chef? I cannot name one experience, I worked in a very dynamic environment where I have experienced many things that have helped in shaping the chef I am today. I first started working at Hermann, which is also a Danish kitchen, then later moved over to Noma where the focus was on Nordic Cuisine – my experiences from here paved the way to me working in the kitchen I work in today. Ingredients that inspire you, your favourite ingredients and ingredients you’re unable to work with… I am very inspired by the seasons, right now it is spring in Denmark, which means that it is the season for buckthorn, ramsons (wild garlic), and cabbage shoots. It probably would have be the beetroot. Beetroot is a very versatile ingredient with many nuances, which allows me to create many different and interesting dishes. Beetroot can be baked, pickled, smoked and can also be used as a dessert. Right now we use beetroot in our petit fours, where we have chocolate cream puffs with a beetroot filling. The most challenging ingredient for me would probably be the asparagus. It might seem a bit ironic as it is an ingredient widely used in kitchens across Denmark, but I find it hard to add a wow factor to it, as it has a lot of acid and is perhaps a bit boring.

152 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

153


MORTEN KROGHOLM

154 - WG March 2018


WG MAGAZINE

“It feels amazing and I am very honoured. Especially because we have achieved this by working within this simple Danish kitchen and then taken it to this high level” Special cooking techniques… I love to pickle. Pickling is an Old Danish traditional cooking technique that I use a lot and enjoy. Produce, Creativity or Technique… Creativity, definitely. It is the most challenging process of the dish. Many people can get a hold of great produce and make it taste good, but not many can make simple produce great by using their creativity. What is the feeling to be awarded a Michelin star and what keeps you motivated? It feels amazing and I am very honoured. Especially because we have achieved this by working within this simple Danish kitchen and then taken it to this high level. I love my job, and my biggest motivation is my ambition to make amazing food for my amazing guests. The ambition to be awarded a second star is also a big motivation. How do you stay on top of new cooking trends? I read about different restaurants, frequently go out to eat, and every Tuesday I test four completely new dishes that I can add to the menu. Your advice to young chefs who are first entering the kitchen for the first time… It may sound like a cliché, but I would have to say hard work and dedication. Put in your hours, be stubborn and keep up with the ever-changing times. WG March 2018 -

155


TONI KOSTIAN

TONI KOSTIAN THIS IS GRÖN

156 - WG March 2018

Born in Helsinki, Toni was interested in food at an early age, his family did a lot of fishing, foraging so cooking was part of his everyday life. At 15 he did a short two week internship in one of the best restaurants in Helsinki at that time and that was the moment when he realized that this is what he wanted to do and the passion followed. After his graduation from Perho culinary school, Toni worked in some of the finest Finnish restaurants like Luomo, G W Sundmans and Kaskis. But the one thing that really shaped the way he cooks was a year that he spent only foraging and testing ingredients, that was the year before opening Grön. “I took a loan and spend the entire year just learning, seemed like a dumb idea at the time, but it ended up being the best thing for me professionally” adds Toni. His cuisine is focused and inspired with a strong emphasis on high quality based on seasonal, organic, wild and Scandinavian produce, and all this happens in an atmosphere which makes his guest feel relaxed. This is a tribute to creativity and this is Grön.


WG MAGAZINE

WG March 2018 -

157


TONI KOSTIAN

158 - WG March 2018

KINGCRAB


WG MAGAZINE

“My cuisine is tasty, focused, plant-based and inspiring” WG catches up with the new one Michelin star chef of Grön - Toni Kostian… Your cuisines is a combination of the finest produce, creativity and a composition of flavors… GRÖN

Well, it all starts with the flavour combination. How can I get this more acidic, sweet or salty? How can I add umami and get it even more balanced? What would I like to have with this ingredient if I would be the person eating it? Every dish is different but the idea behind is pretty much the same: What could I do to make this taste even better! Your culinary philosophy and take us through the process of creating a dish… My cuisine is tasty, focused, plant-based and inspiring. I concentrate on high quality ingredients and preparing them so that everything you do to them is to only get that ingredient better. Creating a new dish always starts with a flavor or a specific ingredient. The basic idea is to create food or flavor combinations, I would like to eat or how could I make this taste even better. A certain type of obsession and an idea is what leads to perfection. But sometimes ideas just simply work, some flavor combinations are just easier to work with than others.

DAIRY

WG March 2018 -

159


TONI KOSTIAN

GRÖN TEAM

New ingredients pop up every now and then. Right now we are working a lot with seeds from wild herbs, that’s an ingredient we have forgotten how to use. There is really a wide flavour profile waiting to be found again.

Ingredients that inspire you, your favourite ingredients and those you were unable to work with… 160 - WG March 2018

Definitely plants and herbs. I believe they are a lot harder to work with than with protein and it is a lot more interesting. Bitter-almond, that’s a flavour I just dislike for some reason. I do understand why people enjoy it a lot, but to me it’s just too much of…well, bitter-almond. Produce, Creativity or Technique… The produce, definitely! Without a great produce there is no room for any techniques or creativity. To make great food, all of your produce needs to be excellent from start to finish. A simple thing, the quality of your salt can really make a true difference on your cooking, you need to think about the little things as well.


WG MAGAZINE

PUMPKIN

WG March 2018 -

161


TONI KOSTIAN

162 - WG March 2018

TARTAR


WG MAGAZINE

Special cooking techniques… Well anything that works to make a certain ingredient taste better, or add something to the texture. It can be anything from coal to circulators. Plus, I am a true vacuum machine fanatic. PARFAIT

Your greatest influence in the kitchen… All of the great chefs and people that have found their own style of cooking or expressing them self and made great things just by doing something that they have passion for. What is the feeling to be awarded a Michelin star in 2018 and what keeps you motivated? It was truly a great feeling, out of this world. Motivation is something you must carry with you at all times, it’s an energy within you. You are always learning and finding new ways to do something. It’s the positive and negative that keeps you motivated…And you need to remember to rest! Your advice to chefs entering the kitchen for the first time… Learn the basics, don’t try to run before you can walk. Practice, push yourself and do not be afraid to fail! Failing something could be the best thing ever happened to you.

MUSHROOM

WG March 2018 -

163


WG MAGAZINE JANUARY 2017

WG MAGAZINE

2016 A COLLECTIVE OF CHEFS

www.gelinaz.com

1

2016 GELINAZ! WWW.WGMAGAZINES.COM

WG March 2017 -

1 WG MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2016

a feast for the palate...

GÉRALD PASSEDAT

LE PETIT NICE

REIF OTHMAN

MEDITTERASIAN CUISINE

PACO TORREBLANCA

MAESTRO PASTELERO www.wgmagazines.com

WG MAGAZINE JULY 2017

ARNAUD DONCKELE

A TRUE ARTISAN

ALBERT ADRIÀ ENIGMA

MASSIMO BOTTURA

FOOD FOR SOUL

JONATHAN BERNTSENS CLOU CUISINE

DANIEL BOULUD - WG March 2018

164

PASSION FOR NATURE www.wgmagazines.com

PEPE MONCAYO

UNUSUAL PAIRING ASIA’S 50 BEST BARS WG July 2017 -

1

WG October 2016 -

1

WG March 2018 Issue  
WG March 2018 Issue