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IRC’S GOURMET WEEK… THE MOST INFLUENTIAL CULINARY EVENT IN DUBAI

MIGUEL VIEIRA MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANT FORTALEZA DO GUINCHO PORTUGAL

SAM AISBETT MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANT WHITEGRASS SINGAPORE

RISHI NALEENDRA MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANT CHEEK BY JOWL SINGAPORE

MANJUNATH MURAL MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANT SONG OF INDIA SINGAPORE

LINO SAURO GATTOPARDO RISTORANTE DI MARE SINGAPORE

REIF OTHMAN CHEF OF THE YEAR THE EXPERIENCE & PLAY DUBAI

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KENJIRO “HATCH” HASHIDA HASHIDA SUSHI SINGAPORE

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The colours of tradition

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for dining We plan, design, furnish, think and connect spaces. In Between Chair, Sami Kallio, 2013. Solid wood and formpressed veneer.

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Good taste isn’t expensive

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Incredibly down-to-earth, #mĂźhlviertel

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FOUR HANDS DINNERS SINGAPORE SLING PART I & PART II CHEEK BY JOWL & WHITEGRASS AT THE EXPERIENCE TWO CHEFS, FOUR HANDS, EIGHT SIGNATURE DISHES

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RISHI NALEENDRA

MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANT CHEEK BY JOWL SINGAPORE

REIF OTHMAN

CHEF OF THE YEAR THE EXPERIENCE & PLAY DUBAI

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SAM AISBETT

MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANT WHITEGRASS SINGAPORE

Chef’s Konnect this September at The Experience by Reif Othman... The Experience will be the stage of a special culinary alliance between Michelin Star Chef Rishi Naleendra and Michelin Star Chef Sam Aisbett with Chef Reif Othman (Chef of the Year and Best Innovative Chef of the Year – Dubai) for an exclusive four hands dinner collaborations on Monday, 18 September and Tuesday, 19 September 2017. “The Experience is constantly pushing the culinary barriers with its unique experiences for our guests. The four hands dinner over two days with Rishi Naleendra and Sam Aisbett will showcase a perfect mix of culture that makes the gastronomy in Dubai so special” adds Reif Othman.

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SIX HANDS DINNER JUST MEDITERRANEAN THREE CHEFS, SIX HANDS, NINE SIGNATURE DISHES

MIGUEL VIEIRA

MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANT FORTALEZA DO GUINCHO

PORTUGAL

REIF OTHMAN

CHEF OF THE YEAR THE EXPERIENCE & PLAY DUBAI

FRANCESCO GUARRACINO ROBERTO’S

ABU DHABI

This six hands dinner is a culinary creation without limits, a concoction of exquisite flavours of the Mediterranean...

20 SEPTEMBER 2017 On 20 September, Reif Othman will welcome Michelin Star Chef Miguel Vieira of Restaurant Fortaleza do Guincho, Cascais Portugal and Executive Chef Francesco Guarracino of Roberto’s Abu Dhabi to a six hands dinner for an exclusive one-night dinner at The Experience by Reif Othman. “I am very much looking forward to meet and cook with such great chefs and very thankful for this opportunity to bring a bit of my cuisine to the UAE. I´m sure that it will be a great and memorable evening in both restaurants” says Miguel Vieira.

Francesco Guarracino adds “It is an honor to be part of the 6 hands concept and to cook alongside Chef Miguel and Chef Reif. It is not often that chefs experienced in different cuisines get to collaborate and share their own culinary skills with each other and have it all come together for the people to enjoy.” These chefs will take diners on a culinary journey of flavours at The Experience. Celebrating the Four and Six Hands Dinners, Reif Othman will create a Signature Lavazza Dessert. WG September 2017 -

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Editor Culinary Editor

Fabian deCastro Geeta Bansal Claudia Ferreres

Lifestyle Editor

Doug Singer

Feature Editor

Oilda Barreto

Contributors

Michael Hepworth Rhiannon Shepherd

Photography

Majella Shepherd

FJMdesign WGkonnect Photography Consultant Creative Design Studio Publisher IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd.

‘ Identifying underprivileged children with culinary ambitions...

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Company Registration Number U22100GA2011PTC006731 Marketing & Advertising Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: marketing@wgmagazines.com WG™ Beverly Hills Michael Hepworth 287 S.Robertson Blvd Beverly Hills, CA 90211 WG™ New York Doug Singer - Head of Operations, North America 404 East 66 Street, Suite 2E New York, NY 10065 E-mail: doug@wgmagazines.com WG™ International Representative Point Select Leisure Management DMCC P.O.Box 333581, Dubai, U.A.E.

©IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in WG™ digital publication do not necessarily reflect the views of IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. WG™ and IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies or errors and do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. All contents are strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. ©2017 WG™ All rights reserved.

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Cover Image Credit: Photo © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD


G WG MAGAZINE

Excellence always requires to be remembered, so let’s do it again! a WG GELINAZ! Issue…

GELINAZ! DOES UPPER-AUSTRIA is an itinerant and experimental culinary performance, articulated through seven varying spaces within the restaurant of legendary Austrian father & son Helmut and Philip Rachinger, of restaurant Mühltalhof at Neufelden. This culinary experience is by no means a regular dinner, remember GELINAZ! plays food, it doesn’t just cook your supper. Dishes deconstructed, dismantled, cut into pieces, remixed and reinterpreted by 23 Austrian and international chefs, including René Redzepi, Manu Buffara, David Chang, Milena Broger, Ana Roš, Virgilio Martinez, Heinz Reitbauer, Mauro Colagreco, Konstantin Filippou and other well-known faces.

The curators Andrea Petrini & Alexandra Swenden are constantly pushing the boundaries and discovering new cultures. GELINAZ! is a world-wide think-tank of avant-garde chefs performing food and remixing each other’s dishes like in a DJ set giving form to culinary happenings where art, music and cuisine fusion in unexpected and improvisational ways. It is a collective made by chefs for chefs, never repeating itself with no competition in mind and was, at core, solely created to give something back to an ever-evolving industry, adapting to unpredictable situations and charting new territory. WG Magazine is proud to have this great partnership with GELINAZ!

FdeCastro

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SEPTEMBER 2017

CONTENTS 38

A Word From Andrea Petrini

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GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria

52

The Wooden House

72

The Dark Cellar

94

The “Stube”

116 It’s Warm Inside By The Fireplace 136 The Forest Through The Looking Mirror 158 By This River 174 Once Upon a Time On The Rails 194 Art Is Not A Dessert

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MAGAZINES

PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD

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Be inspired by meaningful moments of great delight, upperaustria.at

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ALWAYS CHARGED ALWAYS READY

With the Lexus Hybrid range, there’s no need to plug in. Your car is always ready, when you are. Providing an experience enjoyed by over a million drivers, more than all other premium manufacturers combined. Discover the world’s best-selling luxury hybrid range.

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W W W. F R E Y-AU T O M O B I L E . AT


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LENTOS Kunstmuseum

Incredibly contemporary, Linz. linztourismus.at/en

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I told you so...

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OMG WHY DID I SAY YES ?

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THE GELINAZ ! HISTORY 2017 GELINAZ! DOES UPPER-AUSTRIA 2016 5 new ambitious projects : Walk with us London, Sao Paulo, San Francisco, then The Shuffle Two(2) plus its Brussels Shuffle Headquarters. 2015 The Grand Gelinaz! Shuffle. 2014 The spiritual retreat in Tuscany. & Project in New York. 2013 Since then, the duo has given birth to 10 projects like Ghent (an 8 hours dinner involving 25 chefs) and Lima in 2013. 2012 The monster came back to life in 2012, when Andrea asked Alexandra Swenden to become his partner, adding a new impulse and creating new concepts for the collective. 2008 After the last gig in Deauville, GELINAZ! was put to sleep. 2007 3 other small-scale gigs were to follow mostly on stage, or at restaurant Noma. 2005 Fulvio Pierangelini (the name Gelinaz! comes from his family name, mixed with the rock band’s name Gorillaz) and the journalist Andrea Petrini created together the first gig on stage with 5 chefs in San Sebastián. Each of them were doing a remixed version of one of Fulvio’s emblematic dish.

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WELL DONE WG! BOTTOMS UP!

Honestly, no one thought that you were at the end going to make it. And yet, against all odds, you did it. Can’t believe our eyes, can’t believe it’s true! A 300% GELINAZ! DOES UPPER AUSTRIA special issue. How did you manage to do it? What’s your secret/your poison?

And us? Well, we are still recovering, digesting and processing the overdose of emotions, the collision of ideas, of flavours, of sounds, it seems like yesterday, and here it is, jotted down on paper, a written field recording, and the journal of the base camp…. It took us a lot of energy to put together all the chefs, to mix them together in teams, to pair them with artists and, literally, to build a “one for all and all for one” bridge. A real floating one over the river, linking together TEXT ANDREA PETRINI the best, open minded boys and girls operating today in the culinary waterfront and a bunch of contemporary artists.

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Lord praise the Infinite Jest of the Rachingers dad & son, Helmut and Philip, who opened up their own house, teaming up with uncle and art director Joachim Eckl to welcome a wide array of sound artists (luckily enough, young trombone virtuoso John Pisaro didn’t fall off the tower), from opera singers disguised as forest Mermaids and travelling zithar players, boarded on a train with Slovenian queenie Ana Ros and the wildest bunch of chef(fe)s ever seen around these previous austrohungarian borders (or anywhere else, if sex really matters). Never mind the gender but don’t forget the girls: their presence and attitudes brought the whole event to a more spicy - but calmer, perhaps a little more chaotic but focused on the essentials, more altruistic but always pushing their teams to their best - kind of atmosphere. All in all, to a more balanced kind of shared energy among these 23 culinary world talents. With a result that the level of the dishes was for sure at a point rarely reached before. And even a much much more frontal political drive.

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PHOTO Š TOM MESIC


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Who will ever erase from the hard disk of memory David Chang and Lukas Mraz cooking together by the river bridge with Hong Kong girl May Chow along with Canadian Sputnik Colombe Saint-Pierre from Le Bic. Check and double check Colombe disguised under a platinum blond wig “à la Guillaume Dustan”, gay writer and sex theorist/activist (1) with all her clothes (shirts, skirts, Barbie bodies) hanging on the branches of the tress like in a refugee camp….. It was, let’s not be afraid to state it once again, the most political outrageous outburst of polyamourous culinary joy we have ever witnessed since we stopped one day to wear “nut huggers”. Beyond Food and Evil, past the boundaries there is no limits. That’s where GELINAZ! wants to go, that’s where we want to bring you again next time. And share together with all of us the glimpse of a possible utopia popping up here and there but for real. And for keeps. We deeply believe that other worlds, other ways of living are possible. And yep!, we are not talking just about food. Not in least(est)!!!!!!!! THE GELINAZESSSS! 1) Guillaume Dustan, 1965-2005 PHOTO © TOM MESIC

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Between Food And Evil Curators Andrea Petrini & Alexandra Swenden are, in essence, ‘agit-pop’ curators of a culinary hub that brings together artists, musicians, scientists, thinkers and producers with chefs. They are renowned for constantly pushing the boundaries of their projects. From the acclaimed restaurant swaps in 2015 with The Grand GELINAZ! Shuffle, in 2016 - The GELINAZ! Brussels HQ and The Grand GELINAZ! Shuffle Two (2). Andrea & Alexandra’s latest GELINAZ! Production, “A Tribute to Upper-Austria and The Austrian Culinary Scene” a blend of chefs, artist and sound - GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria.

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GELINAZ! DOES UPPERAUSTRIA A TRIBUTE TO UPPER-AUSTRIA AND THE AUSTRIAN CULINARY SCENE

23 OF THE WORLD’S CUTTING EDGE CHEFS 8 MAJOR CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS 14 COURSE A GLOBAL SOUND INSTALLATION

PHOTO © TOM MESIC

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AN ITINERANT EXPERIMENTAL FOOD PERFORMANCE articulated through 7 varying spaces within and around Mühltalhof in Neufelden, the restaurant of legendary Austrian hosts dad & son Helmut and Philip Rachinger. Both chefs were asked to choose 3 of their core matrix recipes.

PHOTO © TOM MESIC

PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD

The participating 23 GELINAZ! chefs worked in 7 small teams of 3 and 4. Their mission: to deconstruct, dismantle, and cut into pieces one of the original recipes and to remix it into their own personal version. 2 different variations: one specific interpretation for each part of the dinner.

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THE 3 ORIGINAL UPPERAUSTRIAN MATRIX DISHES BY HELMUT & PHILIP RACHINGER

PHOTO © TOM MESIC

Goulasch & bread of potatoes Wild-caught freshwater fishes & foraged ingredients from the forest Sommerbock WG September 2017 -

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PART 1: ITINERANT Guests were divided into groups of 20, and had to find their way through the various cooking stations in and around Mühltalhof until they arrive at the final place where the seated part will be held.

Each cooked one blueprint remixed dish. This could be defined as a first draft dish, a simplified, preliminary version of the fully developed “Final Remixed Dish” that was presented during the second and final part of the performance. A kind of blueprint dish, like the blueprint of a project. It could contain one or two ideas of the final remixed dish, all its ingredients or just a few (cooked or prepared differently). The dish would be the first step of a process brought to conclusion and amplified only in the second part of the dinner.

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PART 2: SEATED The second part of the dinner, was held at “The Gathering”, a massive artistic working-field and gallery - the HEIM.ART®Station – just 5 minutes from the restaurant – once you crossed the “symbolic bridge” built across the river just for the event – run by artist/owner Joachim Eckl, official art curator of the event.

Joachim Eckl invited along 7 likeminded contemporary artists to create generative soundscapes interacting with the chefs in their creative process. During this second part of the dinner, each team cooked one fully developed final remixed dish. The chefs were allowed to change some of the original ingredients and add beautiful fresh seasonal products from Upper-Austria (Mühlviertel). All in all, 14 original dishes were created. PHOTO © TOM MESIC

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THE WOODEN HOUSE MILENA BROGER GABRIELA CAMARA RENÉ REDZEPI FELIX SCHELLHORN 52 - WG September 2017

PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD


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MILENA BROGER Who’s that girl? It’s Milena: The mysterious Valley Girl from the Mountain Upper Neverland – spot her here or catch her elsewhere if you can!

RENÉ REDZEPI There’s a BRR and ARR. That means: before and after René Redzepi opened Noma (from the archives: it was in November 2003) when the new culinary millennium finally started, leaving behind whatever we thought the word “cuisine” meant. A brand new world, nature centered, was born. Blossoming the unexpected, to say the least. Expect nonetheless to enter another dimension: when the utopia made possible of Noma 2.0 – morphed into a community Urban Farm – will open its doors later on this year.

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PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD


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GABRIELA CAMARA Mexican Pasionaria Camara leads her San Franciscan outpost, Cala, as a Pirate’s Cove: a No Control Zone of freedom at large, where the SF scene from farm to table meets the Mex heritage trespassing borders and bringing down walls. The message is clear: Impeach the merchants of hate.

PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD

FELIX SCHELLHORN Felix might have pushed aside his fab dad in his brilliant Goldegg restaurant. But instead of following his steps he much prefers to live his own life. Felix cooks only at the little most perfect, intimate retreat on the green slopes around Salzbourg: the dream pop B&B you never thought would be possible. Beware: Tasting Menu starts first thing in the morning.

PHOTO © INGO PERTRAMER

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MILENA BROGER

Born in Guatemala Ciudad, Milena Broger grew up in Bregenzerwald (Vorarlberg, Austria), cooking and eating played a main role since her childhood. After studying at the Academy of Tourism in Bezau, she turned her back on gastronomy, since the profession of a cook was somehow infamous in Austria and not compatible with a steady normal life. Milena started to study Law and Art History, but soon she noticed that it is not possible to suppress her passion and vocation. Unhappy and understood that cooking was her happiness, the world to her, no matter under which conditions and schedules – cooking was her life. She stopped studying and followed her heart: into the kitchen. For her cooking and eating was the most important, good for humanity and the main basic need. Milena adds “For me, cooking is a permanent process of learning which never ends. For practical trainings I travelled to Japan, Denmark and Italy and continued to learn every day here in Austria, my home country. For me everybody is an example who cooks with love and passion. This can be a professional cook but also a child which enjoys the good smell of the food in its hands.� Her concern to concentrate on the proper taste and to obtain the pure tastes of the ingredients as far as possible. She loves the improvisation and challenges herself, leaving her comfort zone and kitchen as a place, and trusting her own hands and with she has learnt.

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Cooking with products of the nearest surroundings, she buys her meat in form of whole or half animals and processes it herself. The inspiration she gets from nature and from the products. She considers it as her responsibility not to change or adulterate the basic products, but to mark their qualities and peculiarities by means of her craft. Milena’s greatest influences in the kitchen… “I think it is Sanae, the chef of my traineeship in Tokyo. He has a small ramen restaurant with only 8 places and he considered his kitchen as a stage and his guests as spectators in his theater. He cooked in the smallest place with very little technical means”, this is where I learnt that good food, which makes you happy does not come from fully equipped big kitchens. Only the love of the craft, the products, the guests and oneself to make food something unique.” GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria… “I think one cannot and should not plan GELINAZ. I am looking forward to the meeting of so many different cooks and tastes. Working together will influence and enlarge the cuisine of all participants in a longlasting way. Balance arises from itself, and it is not even always necessary” adds Milena.

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RENÉ REDZEPI PHOTO © LAURA L.P./HDG PHOTOGRAPHY

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In 2012, Time Magazine named Noma’s Executive Chef, René Redzepi, as one of the World’s 100 Most Influential People. This honor was not bestowed for simply putting Denmark on the world’s gastronomic map, but was also to acknowledge his passion for promoting food innovation. This is a visionary who is effectively influencing a whole new generation of chefs, worldwide. Redzepi’s Copenhagen restaurant is known to work with an extremely well-defined network of suppliers including farmers, foragers and other purveyors to gain access to only the finest ingredients in order to develop a cuisine that expresses its region’s culture and defined seasons in a beautiful and delicious way. A meal at Noma is said to remind you that sometimes food is more than simply food - Nordic food that not only highlights nature’s local resources, but takes them to an entirely new level. For all intents and purposes, Noma is an homage to the bounty of our environment and everything that Mother Nature gracefully offers us. For those lucky enough to have an opportunity to dine within its environment, the experience will articulate why some restaurants truly deserve to be revered.


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The name Noma is a portmanteau of the two Danish words “nordisk” (Nordic) and “mad” (food). First opened in 2003, the restaurant is world-renowned for its reinvention and remarkable interpretation of Nordic Cuisine. Noma is housed in an eighteenthcentury warehouse along the city’s harbor and is situated by the Greenlandic Trading Square, which for 200 years was a center for trade to and from the Faroe Islands, Finnmark, Iceland and Greenland. The intimate space seats a mere 45 guests and serves a tasting menu consisting of 20 courses designed to give one a unique experience capturing a sense of time and place. Redzepi, has also an established himself as an author penning Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine, as well as the more recent, A Work in Progress. His passion for the culinary world does not stop there. He also founded the Nordic Food Lab, an independent research organization and in 2011, the MAD Symposium, an annual gathering of chefs and food lovers with a passionate appetite for knowledge. In 2010, Noma startlingly stole the crown as S.Pellegrino’s World’s Best Restaurant that El Bulli had held for four consecutive years. Noma continues to challenge itself and the world of cuisine as a whole. One thing is for sure, Noma and culinary genius Chef René Redzepi continue to push the boundaries of the epicurean world and a meal at Noma is not only completely out of the ordinary, but truly unexpected and one you will certainly never forget. WG September 2017 -

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Gabriela Camara actually never meant to become a chef. She studied history in college, and ended up opening Contramar with a group of friends soon after. At that time in Mexico City, there was nowhere to get the kind of fresh seafood you would find near the coast. It was only available in fancy French restaurants or at the markets; so, Contramar’s success came very quickly and she never looked back! Gabriela loves to imagine new combinations that feels both modern and familiar at the same time, and those combinations can be completely objective. Gabriela says “I am always looking for delicious ways of putting ingredients together--and when you have the best quality, freshest ingredients, that process is made much easier. Cala is my first restaurant outside of Mexico -- we only use local seafood and produce, but the preparations are for the most part, pretty typically Mexican, but not from any one region in particular.”


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One of her greatest influences is eating in different parts of the world, observing cooks in their kitchens, talking about the food with her friends the things she likes about a preparation or where the smokiness is coming from in a certain dish. This kind of thoughtful observation and discussion has always had the greatest impact on her cooking. “I love to read cookbooks and I read them regularly, although I rarely use them in the exact moment when I am cooking. I have been really inspired by Diana Kennedy and Alice Waters’ recipes over the years. They are both powerful women who each had their own unique path that brought them into the kitchen” adds Gabriela. GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria - where dishes will be deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it your creation… I think cooking almost always has an element of improvisation -- and to find the balance on the plate first and foremost requires trusting your palate along the way to tell you if something is too salty or too acidic. Calling upon personal experiences in the kitchen will lead to the improvisational solutions that have been responsible for countless new dishes--something I would hope to achieve with our talented team at Gelinaz! WG September 2017 -

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FELIX SCHELLHORN PHOTO Š INGO PERTRAMER

My grandmother was a chef, my father is a chef and both of my grandfathers were butchers, so it is not surprising that working with products and people is the thing to do for me. Felix grew up in a hotel which his parents managed, a hotel which is in the family for five generations. During his teenage years, he never really knew whether he would be a professional football player or a golf pro, but after his graduation in a tourism school, he kind of realized that there might be no way around the hospitality industry. He took up cooking with his father at Hotel der Seehof, in Goldegg (60km south of Salzburg) and knew that the kitchen was his place. WG September 2017 -

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My culinary philosophy… I am not sure if I am able to describe my culinary philosophy at this age and I am not sure how many of the world’s top chefs would have known this in their early years already but what I can say is that I have been traveling for the past three years, I have cooked in traditional Anatolian restaurants, Peruvian beach diners and at Berlin techno clubs. So my cuisine at the moment is: There is an idea, there is the material and there is a place to cook and eat. My inspiration for my dishes lays between what my grandmother and father did to what I’ve seen on my journeys. GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria is a culinary performance by chefs, where dishes will be deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it your creation… I think to plan balance is super difficult in this frame. The balance of a dish comes from the team thinking and working together on one dish for a few days. Each team member has his/her own characteristic and to bundle the 4 characteristics and put them in a remixed dish that’s the true balance I guess.

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THE DARK DARK CELLAR MANOELLA BUFFARA MAGNUS NILSSON KONSTANTIN FILIPPOU

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MANOELLA BUFFARA In Curitiba she trusts. No reason whatsoever might push Manoella to leave her laborious Swiss-like South-Brazilian little town behind. Gutsy stuff & turmoil at their best she mostly does, excelling in a marine cuisine full of life, always on the tightrope of improvisation.

PHOTO © MAJELLA SHEPHERD

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MAGNUS NILSSON Whatever it takes, whatever works. The Northern Viking (haven’t we seen him in Game of Thrones?) reigns over his Jämtland kingdom. He picks and nurtures whatever he likes, he hunts and sublimates whatever comes his way. Top chef for sure, but also a multitask force: fluent writer, notorious photographer, inspired painter and skilled aquarellist and, believe it or not, future Grand Piano concertista. Renaissance Kid, indeed!

PHOTO © TOM MESIC

KONSTANTIN FILIPPOU This bearded long haired dude is a Man with a Vision. Should he dig deeper into his Greek unconscious he might bring finally to Vienna what Freud once promised to America: the plague of psychoanalysis. A cuisine of here and there where the repressed takes over. Look, look: Konstantin is already sweating, somatizing what’s coming through his lips… One day he might even start speaking in tongues.

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KONSTANTIN FILIPPOU PHOTO © GERHARD WASSERBAUER/WASSERBAUER.CC © VOLKER WOHLGEMUTH/IANUSARTS.COM

Son of a Greek father and an Austrian mother, Konstantin was born in Graz, Austria. The multicultural marriage of his parents and the Mediterranean influence since his childhood were the early driving force for his future professional career and the young Konstantin was eager to reproduce all the tastes and palatable experiences he has discovered this way. After a sports-oriented school career and many hours spent in his mother’s kitchen, the young half-Greek decided to pursue a profession in culinary arts. Curious and willing to revolutionize the cooking universe, his first stop took him to Hotel Unterhof in Filzmoos, Austria. There, the Executive Chef took him under his wing and taught him the basics of Austrian cooking culture. The Sous-Chef (a trained butcher) then taught him how to make sausages. This foundation in the technical art of cooking fascinated Konstantin and nourishes his vision that something grand would develop. So, in 1999, he moved on to Restaurant Obauer in Werfen, where he gained another major insight: the economic aspect of working with food and after several years at the two Michelin star Restaurant Steirereck, Konstantin knew what it means to act in unison: he learned that great things can only happen when everybody speaks with one voice, walks in the same direction – together. WG September 2017 -

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“I learned perfection in England. There is nothing left to chance. In Spain, everything revolves around an unprecedented selfawareness about food and drinking. Kitchen perfection is paired with a love for life. Basically, I am inspired by so many things that influence my kitchen. My whole life inspires me. My travels, meeting people, new products, strolling through the forests – everything.” says Konstantin. In 2003, Konstantin travelled to England where he did a stage at the three Michelin restaurant of Gordon Ramsay and at the two Michelin star Le Gavroche. At Gordon Ramsay there was absolutely nothing left to chance and he is trained under Ramsay’s drill. After 18-hour days at the Royal Hospital Road, Konstantin stated to cook over the weekends at Le Gavroche with Michel Roux. London gastronomy inspired him with its special way of performance and presentation, its architecture. He discovers that the glass is always half full in this vibrant melting pot.

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In 2005, Konstantin went to Spain to work at Juan Mari Arzak’s three-star mansion in San Sebastian, this is where he had the time of his life. Everything revolved around food and drinks – in a manner he had not experienced before. The Spanish flair of this Michelin mainstay was inexpressibly a motivation for him. The perfection in the kitchen is paired with the boundless joie de vivre of this nation. All this experience he takes back to Vienna. On his arrival in Austria’s capital, his childhood dream – of something grand developing – starts to come true. In the same year, Konstantin Filippou is awarded his first two bonnets within 9 months of cooking at Weibel 3. With “Lobster à l’Orange”, the legendary “Chicken Popcorn” or “Foie Gras Granola” he enthuses a growing national and international crowd.

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Shortly thereafter, in 2006, he moved on to work at Vienna-based Mediterranean restaurant Novelli for five years. Consequently, he continues shaping the story of his success. Filippou hones his multicultural, Mediterranean streak and pairs it with Austrian tradition. He creates signature dishes such as the “Bacalao Brandade with Char Caviar”, “Poached Mackerel with Horseradish and Radishes”, “Organic Egg with Cuttlefish”, “Field Thistle with Meadow Baby Portobello, Périgord Truffle and Jabugo” and “Sepia with Smoked Quail Egg and Snail”, which distinctively shape his style. In both 2009 and 2010, a Michelin Star follows his third Gault Millau bonnet. Konstantin is nominated for gourmet magazine A La Carte’s “Trophée Gourmet” (also known as the “Kitchen Oscar”) in 2011, winning the supreme discipline of “Austria’s Most Creative Chef”. In 2013, Konstantin Filippou opened his first restaurant “Konstantin Filippou” and 7 month later he was awarded with 3 bonnets (Gault Millau) followed by a Michelin star in March 2014. Also in March, the Falstaff Gourmet Guide nominated him as the “Newcomer of the year 2014”.

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His cuisine is puristic, straightforward, based on Austrian products and characterized by an unbridled passion for ingredients. Always aiming for the essence of taste. A cooking that reflects his multicultural background and allows for a unique approach to food from both of my worlds. That can be seen in my dishes. Konstantin adds “It’s a very important thing for me, represents my own style and is my personal business card. My cooking is never only about the food. It’s about colours, design of the dishes and plates. We try to surprise our guests, even when they have the feeling they already see everything. But then, there is so much more behind. My clear view of things is reflected in all of my dishes.” In June 2015, Konstantin’s story continues with the opening of the Natural Wine Bistro O boufés, located at the same address in Dominikanerbastei 17 in Vienna’s first district and in September of the same year, Konstantin Filippou was awarded “Gault Millau Chef of the Year 2016”. Only 4 months after the opening the Bistro O boufés, he received 2 bonnets (15 points) in the Gault Millau and a BiB Gourmand in the March 2016 Guide Michelin. GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria is a culinary performance by chefs, where dishes will be deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it your creation… I can think about dishes. As soon as they are in my head, I can already figure out how it will be balanced, harmonious on the plate. In October 2016, Konstantin Filippou self-published his first cookbook “Konstantin Filippou” in German and English. WG September 2017 -

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MANOELLA BUFFARA My life, my food, my philosophy, my culture, that’s Manu...

My passion for cooking began with my father, my family. I am from the countryside, I was raised around goats, cows, vegetable gardens, cornfields and many other things, with my father I learned to value the land, and what you can offer us if you are treated with affection, the animals, and the affection that we must take care of them. With my grandmother I learned how important our hands are, to discover temperatures, cooking points, time to make bread, and the love we should have for food. So my career was taking shape, conquering and building Manu’s kitchen. To show off the apron worthily, one must know how to wait and let things sometimes develop on their own, without our selfish control. Each ingredient has its cooking time and its individuality. Love demands the same waiting and organization. Each drawer of the relationship asks for specific attention. The other does not walk with us at the same time, and recognizing this, we finally learn to let it all flow, and as if leaving a broth bubbling while the other pots lack a constant look. WG September 2017 -

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COOKING IS RESPECTING THE TIME OF THINGS... Each food demands a dress, a face, a tradition. There is one that has to be full plate and has the measure, mounted to the clamp. It has food with the face of bush and has the cosmopolitan. From the three-digit dish set up in the acclaimed restaurant to the snack just out of the questionable plaque of simple corner bar, every food has its time and place. So behave in front of one of them. Food is an essential component of good health. It perpetuates traditions, brings us back to childhood and cherishes our little hearts. Like everything in life, there are days of permits, plenty and bonanza, as there are also days of juice detox, soup and green tea. Still, if we look well, every food and every phase of life has its beauty. Allow yourself to devote your attention at the next meal to the forks you bring to your mouth. Smell your food, chew slowly, feel her texture, and if possible sit at the table with the one you love. Do not talk about money or politics while you eat. Do like the French, prefer to comment on wine and spices, or simply enjoy the moment in silence. It’s great. When you become aware of what you are eating, watch for the functions of food and vitamins, and what your body actually needs, it is a leap to make than you eat your medicine and altar. No wonder we are the only species that cooks its food. I tried to write with my words, what is my kitchen and the way I think about food and cooking. In Austria we had 3 different chefs, but deep down we had something in common. To build our dish, we use our essences, the soul of our kitchen, so we mix Austria, Brazil and Sweden in a single meal, with a mix of techniques, product and knowledge. For our group it was not just cooking, but we chose the music, the crazy, the affection of the words to explain our dishes, which was much more than cooking, it was an experience. Manu Buffara

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All the respect that the chef has for the inputs was inherited from her father, who was a farmer. The ideal use of the products, makes your menu a mutant. Always with the objective of maintaining the freshness, its inputs are selected according to the availability of the season.

The chef from Paraná, Manu Buffara, is a name in evidence in the scenario of contemporary gastronomy. Her only “son” is the Manu restaurant in Curitiba, and it is here that the chef cooks, experiments with naturally Brazilian products, mostly from the region of Paraná. Her technique are indisputable, and it has become visible in the construction of the dishes, even for those who do not understand the subject. Products are carefully selected. Good taste and sophistication are keywords in your productions. The care and handling with the inputs is strict, for the chef, every detail counts. Such an experience are gained when the journalism graduate decided that her way of communicating was not through words but through taste. In this way, her story was written. There were many experiences. Unforgettable trips only with a backpack, breathtaking scenery, endless crops and gastronomy. All this reflects today in the inspiration, preparation and finalization of her dishes

It is not just from the training of her cooks that Manu is responsible, she trains the reception staff of her restaurant. According to her, they are the first impression the customer has of Manu, so she “shapes them” with the characteristics of the establishment. Manu welcomes guests with juice of fruits native to the Atlantic Rainforest, with a blend of refreshing the soul. The snacks are accompanied by wines and sparkling wines from the South region of Brazil, always to remind customers of the origin of the Manu. The menus are adaptable to restrictions and sizes, with varied options, full of surprises. They are masterpieces, from montage to taste. Gastronomy is not just a part of your life, but everything you breathe... WG September 2017 -

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MAGNUS NILSSON

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Recognized as one of the best restaurants in the world, Magnus Nilsson heads the Fäviken kitchen in northern Sweden. Combining technical excellence, bold flavours and local ingredients, Magnus is hailed as the leader in the new wave of the Nordic food movement. He creates his menus by taking inspiration from Nordic culinary traditions. After graduating from culinary college, Magnus worked in some of Europe’s prestigious kitchens in Stockholm and L’Astrance for three years and L’Arpège on Paris. His move to Fäviken was partly a mistake, however once he realized the restaurant’s potential he quickly jumped on board and began developing both the eatery and himself. His book The Nordic Cookbook unravels the mysteries of Nordic ingredients and introduces the region’s culinary history and cooking techniques. With over 700 authentic recipes Magnus collected while travelling extensively throughout the Nordic countries – Denmark, the Faroe Islands, Finland, Greenland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden. With Magnus as a guide, everyone can prepare classic Nordic dishes and also explore new ones.


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HEINZ REITBAUER Unlike most of his peers, Heinz Reitbauer is no Godlike hero, rather a gentleman of this world. He might have showed the planet how much Austria is on the rising and where exactly it is going, his double starred Steirereck is everything but another Olympus – no Magic (or Holy) Mountain, just a place where fine dining and high end meet their happy ending. An essential, democratic Agora for a new society.

PHOTO Š TOM MESIC

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MARGOT JANSE Better than Johnny Clegg, even sharper than J.M. Cotzee, Maggie is the Chris McGregor (19361990) of the stove. In the wake of the South-African pianist of The Brotherhood of Breath, Janse-San is a World Citizen, bridging the gap between cultures, questioning her place in a white male colonized world. By the way, in case memory fails: keep in mind that, in truly unsuspected times, she was the very first chick to break through the überchauvinistic 50 Best. Respect!

PHOTO © LISA EDI

CHIHO KANZAKI Never fuck up with Chiho, as the old saying goes. U have already seen her up there in Menton, kicking the ass of her previous boss, Mauro Colagreco. Like Sun, the Wachowski sisters’ avengeress star of Sense8, she never misses a hit. Her strokes are clean cut, as precise and merciless as her ways to cut free from whatever might tie her up, whether it is her Jap roots or (nobody’s a fool) the new bistro French serendipity. The cult manga-cheffe for sure. PHOTO © LISA EDI

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HEINZ REITBAUER PHOTO ŠKANIZAJ MARIJA

The Steirereck is a jewel of Art nouveau architecture, in one of the most beautiful parts of Vienna, close to the famous statue of Johann Strauss. Drawing on produce from local farmers as well as from his own farm, Grand Chef Heinz Reitbauer creates the very finest of contemporary Austrian cuisine in a relaxed, chic setting. The dishes and their origins are explained in detail on small cards, which make a lovely memento of a unique culinary experience. Also in the building, the Meierei Milk Bar proposes 120 cheese varieties from 13 different countries as well as traditional Austrian pastries.

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Heinz Reitbauer was born in August of 1970 in Vienna. A few months previously, on the first of January, his parents had opened the restaurant Steirereck in Vienna. In homage to the Styrian roots of the Reitbauer family the restaurant offered regional delicacies such as Styrian pig’s trotter and root vegetable soup or boiled beef with horseradish. Exposed to these culinary influences from an early age Heinz developed a passion for cooking and the world of gastronomy. Having studied at the hospitality school in Altötting, Bavaria he served a year’s apprenticeship at his parents’ restaurant before completing his training at the restaurant of the Obauer brothers in Werfen. Upon finishing his apprenticeship Heinz received the opportunity to learn for a year with Alain Chapel in Mionnay near Lyon. Chapel was one of the foremost three Michelin starred chefs in France and belonged to the pioneers of Nouvelle Cuisine. Heinz continued his international experience one year later at Anton Mosimann’s in London. There followed stints at Joel Robuchon and Restaurant Laurent in Paris. After Heinz’s return to the parental business in 1992 followed the acquisition of the farm and small country inn in the Reitbauer’s home community of Pogusch, northern Styria. WG September 2017 -

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After three years of intensive planning and building work the Steirereck Inn, Pogusch was opened in May 1996. Originally envisaged as more of a weekend country retreat for the family, the inn and restaurant soon began to develop beyond its remit. With a further extension and redevelopment in 1999 the property achieved the form it has today: the combination of place, people and products creating the perfect atmosphere of escapism. This conviviality is recognized in the fact that the restaurant has maintained two toques from Gault Millau since it opened. Heinz was integral to the running of Pogusch from its inception until he assumed the responsibility of head chef at the newly reopened Steirereck in Vienna. His efforts were honoured with the TrophĂŠe Gourmet for best Austrian kitchen in 1999. The steady rise of Steirereck from a simple city inn to one of the top culinary addresses in the country continues to this day. With the purchase and development of the old municipal dairy in Stadtpark and the subsequent relocation of the restaurant to its new premises in January 2005 a new page in the Steirereck history was written. With the reopening of Steirereck, Heinz and his wife moved to Vienna, whilst his parents took over the running of the inn at Pogusch. Following the retirement of the long-standing head chef Helmut Ă–sterreicher from Steirereck in Vienna at the beginning of 2005, Heinz assumed the sole responsibility of head chef.

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Never one to stand still Heinz undertook in 2013 a complete renovation of the Steirereck restaurant and kitchens which was completed in summer 2014. The cooking style of Heinz Reitbauer reflects his respect and appreciation of raw ingredients and products. He has constructed his own cooking identity on these foundations and through his embracing of the national and regional cooking styles of his native Austria. This style consists first and foremost of the meticulous creation of small moments of surprise for the diner, be this through the discovery of a previously unknown ingredient or the resurrection of one long forgotten. Heinz claims the key to his success is the longstanding, intricate and ever expanding network of farmers, gardeners, foragers, botanists and food enthusiasts he has nurtured over the years who never cease to provide him with inspiration and motivation. His appreciation for rare and forgotten varieties led him to become active in the protest movement against the EU seed policy which sought to limit the propagation and sale of all but the most standard fruits and vegetables. Currently Steirereck holds two Michelin stars and four toques from Gault Millau. It has been voted the best restaurant in Austria by A` la carte magazine and the Falstaff Guide. Since 2009 the restaurant is included among the San Pellegrino World’s Fifty Best Restaurants and was awarded the inaugural ‘Slow Food UK’ award in 2012. WG September 2017 -

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CHIHO KANZAKI

Born in Kanawa, Kanzaki’s cuisine is distinguished by the visual and gustative elegance of her dishes, raw materials in their natural state or process that respect the quality of products combined with herbs, spices, roots. She passionately lives the taste variations with the aim of finding perfection in the kitchen and bringing pleasure to her guests. Today, at the age of 38, Chiho does not waste time, learning alongside Mauro Colagreco, has given the total respect of the product. The essence is in the combination of flavors rather than confrontation using precision. Her father was a butcher by trade, Chiho from her childhood wanted to be a chef, when she was old enough to travel, she chose France to learn along with great referents.

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PHOTO © LISA EDI

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Her first experiences was working with Luca Carton, a three Michelin star in Paris and then did a year with two Michelin star Jean-Paul Jeunet in Arbois, she then moved to two Michelin star SaQuaNa and three Michelin star Manresa in San Francisco. In 2007, Chiho started working with Mauro Colagreco at Mirazur until finishing in 2014 as Chef de Cuisine. It was then in 2015 that she decided to go to Paris, a year in La Ferme Saint Simon and today she is in the kitchen of Virtus with Marcelo Di Giacomo. Chiho cuisine is inspired by the seasons of Japan, Spring in Japan inspires her the most. The Sakura flowers are her inspiration and the source of her energy. It is the season when everything is at its state of splendor, when everything starts and when a chef can find a whole palette of colors and aromas that are part of me Influenced by her travels to different countries, savoring typical dishes of each different place. Brazil is a good example, she recalls “the wide choice of fruits they have, encouraging her to incorporate fruits in my dishes. Sharing moments between chefs and sommeliers is also really important for me so as to reach the best equilibrium in every dish.” GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria, dishes will be deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it your creation… … My initial idea is to respect the local product. Then I could develop the dish in a simple way, just adding my touch with mark of Sake. Will work together with the chefs in my team and integrated all our ingredients so as to keep the dishes elegant. WG September 2017 -

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MARGOT JANSE

Born in the Netherlands, Margot moved to South Africa in 1990 with her South African boyfriend. She always wanted to be an actress and had pursued this after high school. Once in Africa, she got involved with a photography school and became part of the operating team for 3 years. She was however always cooking. Her father always introduced her to new and exciting ingredients while she was young, which made her very inquisitive and keen to explore the new and undiscovered. Food and restaurants became an obsession and she managed to find a job in Johannesburg as a trainee in the kitchen and loved every minute. She had the freedom to create and learnt about running a restaurant during the 2 years. After moving to the Cape and a few more jobs, she ended up in Franschhoek at Le Quartier Francais in 1995. She started as a Sous Chef and was promoted to Executive Chef after 6 months, because the chef left. This was a huge task, as the restaurant had an incredible reputation. It was then that her culinary evolution really started. Margot developed her own culinary language celebrating South Africa through her food - incredible ingredient and stories to share with the world.

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The (then) owner Susan Huxter, an incredible woman with a unique and creative hospitality style sold Le Quartier Francais in 2015. And after 21 amazing years Margot decided to leave in April of this year and The Tasting Room closed at the same time. Margot finds it difficult to put her style in a box as it is her belief that food is constantly evolving, and that unforgettable dishes always have an element of surprise and nostalgia about them. She prefers to allow herself the room to be creative and experiment with new things. She works fearlessly with textures and balance because she believes that each dish has to say something. As she once famously exclaimed: “I don’t like bland food. I don’t like safe food.” This – more than anything else – sums up her food and life philosophies. Every dish of Margot’s is truly refined and, at the same time, unexpectedly exciting. It is this contradiction that results in her menu’s outstanding balance and ensures that her cuisine is theatre. Margot’s unique approach extends further than just phenomenal cuisine; it has moved into the captivating realm of stories and magic. She has created a place where each dish and its African-inspired elements have the ability to captivate the hearts and minds of diners. WG September 2017 -

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“I have no signature dish, South Africa is my signature.” says Margot Janse, the Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français is the stage for award-winning chef Margot Janse and her unique eight-course, contemporary African-inspired surprise Tasting Menu. “My culinary philosophy is telling the South and Southern African stories. Celebrating the unique ingredients from here. Everything has a purpose, everything has a story. Creating new dishes always starts with a story, either of origin, ingredients of culture” says Margot Janse GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria - dishes will be deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it your creation… “It is a very exciting project, collaborating with 2 other chefs who I have never worked with. It is all about creative play, respect and learning from each other’s cultures. Then we can translate this into a new story. I plan to bring some unique products with me.” Explains Margot Janse.

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IT’S WARM INSIDE BY THE FIREPLACE ANTONIA KLUGMANN VIRGILIO MARTINEZ LUKAS NAGL 116 - WG September 2017


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VIRGILIO MARTĂ?NEZ Skinny legged Virgilio walks slowly in his suede desert boots but thinks extra fast. Track him down when he disappears across the skyline above the Andean mountains, where he gets grains and roots of his multicolored inspiration. Hurry up, keep him in sight. It will be difficult to follow him up, today here at Central, his Lima outpost, tomorrow in his future spot in Cuzco and wherever Mater Iniciativa, his food ONG, might lead him in the stride of his Peruvian world think tank.

PHOTO Š LISA EDI

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ANTONIA KLUGMANN You have to move past her solicitous husband, to open the kitchen door that separates “Tonia from the outside world”. You have to take her by the hand. Look deep into her eyes, dig into that ecstatic smile. Antonia is Renée Falconetti in Dreyer’s Jeanne d’Arc, the fire walks with her, burns inside all over her. Unexpected Love, Devotion & Surrender for those who park unknowingly of the Passion that’s taking place, twice a day, in her little clearing hidden away on the tightrope between Friuli and Slovenia.

PHOTO © LISA EDI

LUKAS NAGL Lukas is a sedentary trav eller. Since establishing himself at Boothaus on the lakeshore of Traunsee, he has devoted himself to local sourcing and focusing on a synthesis of his several experiences. Top dining but also great humanizing of high end cuisine, in his hands one never knows where and when the first one starts and the other one ends. Like his previous mentors, Austrian Maître-à-Penser Heinz Reitbauer & Thomas Keller at Per Se, NY, Lukas follows no trends: he makes his own. By his own. Per Se, precisely.

PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD

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VIRGILIO MART�NEZ The mastermind behind the illustrious Lima’s Central Restaurante of having established a style of contemporary cuisine that focuses on the resources of Peru. Central celebrates the biodiversity of Peru, fresh produce and an inexhaustible curiosity to discover and integrate new ingredients into the Central’s menu. Virgilio chooses to approach the diversity of Peruvian ingredients in a manner similar to that used by the peoples of the Andes in pre-Hispanic times, through vertical ecological monitoring, understanding the geography, where the land is perceived not as a horizontal plane but rather vertically, so that it takes advantage of all that the flora and fauna are able to deliver according to the particularities of each ecological system. Passionate about travelling and investigating ingredients that can bring undocumented and yet even more wealth to the local cuisine.

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“I was very active and dynamic at 17. I was convinced I had to do something creative. Times in my country were difficult, politically and economically we were so unstable it showed no promise for my generation to stay. So after a couple of years of trying to fit in this city with the wrong career choice, I decided to travel, and see other things and look for what could really move me. Cooking was at first the best vehicle to do so, and then it became without a doubt my passion. I took studying very seriously and understood exactly what I had to do: see as much as I could from the world in order to be technically good to return home and practice what I ´d learnt. After more than ten years of studies, and working in restaurants around the world I came back to do my own thing. Looking back, I wouldn´t t change a thing” says Virgilio Martínez

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Inspired by an Andean method to see the world that consists in seeing different ecosystems at different altitudes. That allows him to take into account ingredients that grow or develop at a certain height and understand which conditions are particular to that zone, and the community hat is close by. So for instance, he went to Aija, (in Ancash), and it was an amazing valley between the greenest Andean mountains, as high as 300masl. Potatoes were processed as tocosh, and there were passionarias like tumbos, and tintin, and also different colored ollucos, as well as hundreds of aromatic herbs.

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Creating a new dish is all about… “First, we travel. We see a new ecosystem, a new environment. And we listen to the stories, we learn from the people about ingredients, how they use them and they care for them. And we search for new things they may not know they have around, so that is how we may be able to give them something back. We bring everything home, and so the formal process begins. Research about what we got, to be sure everything is safe. And then we experiment in the kitchen, keeping in mind the landscape we saw, and the elements in the surroundings. The colors, the textures, everything.”

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Ingredients that inspire Virgilio… Tocosh (fermented potatoes that are obtained when buried for near a month in Andean mud and ichu near a water creek at almost 4000masl.), and kañiwa, a pseudo cereal from the High Plateau of Puno, tinier that quinoa but as rich and tasty. “I love cushuros, cyanobacteria from the Andes. Also, huampo, the gel that comes from this Amazonian bark when the resin is boiled. Then, ungurahui, a fruit from a palm tree in the low jungle that belongs to the awajunas. It has little pulp but it works as a natural dark purple dye” says Virgilio.

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ANTONIA KLUGMANN

PHOTO © FABRICE GALLINA

It wasn’t until halfway through a law degree that Antonia Klugmann fell in love with food. Born in Trieste to a family of doctors in 1979, her younger years were very academic, but after attending a few extra-curricular pâtisserie courses at a local culinary school in 2001 she decided to return home and become a chef. “I understood that cuisine would be the way to express my creativity. I decided to go back home in Friuli Venezia Giulia, the Italian region next to the border with Slovenia and Austria, to learn and to become a chef. After some years I had to stop to work because of a car accident. During my time in recovery, I always continued to cook in my mind. I explored deeply my region, its nature and the available ingredients. The decision of opening my own restaurant grew up in that period. The freedom and the pressure resulting from being my own boss have been the key leverages for the foundation of a path for my creative thinking” says Antonia. Antonia’s first four years in the industry were spent at Harry’s Grill, where she was mentored by Chef Raffaello Mazzolini. Once she’d mastered the stove there, she travelled all over Italy, working stages wherever she could and absorbing as many regional dishes, techniques and cuisines as she could. Unfortunately, this method of learning was cut short after a car accident meant Antonia had to stay at home for almost a year. During her time in recovery, Antonia decided to start her own vegetable garden and quickly gained a newfound respect for the ingredients she tended to. She also began putting together plans to open her own restaurant once able to work again. This finally happened in 2006, when she opened the Antico Foledor Conte Lovaria in Pavia di Udine, FriuliVenezia Giulia with her partner Romano. Just three years later, she was shortlisted as one of the best emerging chefs in northern Italy. WG September 2017 -

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In 2011, Antonia travelled to Venice to work at the Michelin-starred Il Ridotto, which specialised in seafood and Venetian cuisine. A few months after arriving in the city, she decided to start devising ideas for a new restaurant, until she received a job offer to work at the Venissa on Mazzorbo, a Venetian island. ‘I couldn’t say no,’ she says. ‘I fell in love with the place and it was a huge opportunity that helped my career.’ After working at Venissa for three years, Antonia and Romano decided to open their own restaurant for the second time. In December 2014, L’Argine a Vencó opened for service north of Venice in Dolegna del Collio, near the Slovenian border. Surrounded by vineyards, the small farmhouse restaurant has already won a Michelin star and makes the most of the fresh produce and herbs Antonia fell in love with when tending to her vegetable garden. Being based on the Italian-Slovenian border means her cuisine celebrates diversity, and plays with unusual flavour combinations to create dishes like no other.

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‘I come from a place where there is a mix of cultures and influences,’ she says. ‘I am part-Serbian, partAustrian and my grandfather spoke four different languages. Being based on the border means I can cook traditional food in a non-traditional way.’ Much of Antonia’s food and the way she pairs flavours together is down to her admiration for chefs such as Ferran Adrià, Massimiliano Alajmo and Pier Giorgio Parini. ‘I think they’re geniuses,’ she says. ‘They showed us a new way or working. I think Pier Giorgio is the best chef of our generation – every time I cook with him I feel I am always one step behind.’ Her cuisine has been always strictly connected with the territory where she works. Distinctive quality raw materials of the area where she works are her primary source of inspiration. She loves to use them in her cuisine, understanding their role in the history, with the goal of enhancing them in a new creative way.


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When it comes to ingredients, some of Antonia’s favorites are blue fish and anchovies – produce which is rarely seen as a special or luxurious food. ‘What really excites me is working with something that people don’t think of as a precious ingredient. I love to see the beauty where others cannot. ‘I don’t like to talk about revising traditional cuisine,’ she adds. ‘I like to invent. Invention, however, is always the result of a past knowledge, experience or tradition. This is what people find when they taste my dishes.’ One of the reason why Italy is a much reached country is the presence of several regional cuisines. She adds “We are fragmented but the inspiration of each one is connected with the relevant differences from one area to another. In my case when I think to ingredients I have always in mind multi-ethnic traditions of my family and of my region: they continue to influence me. They are lens through which I watch the cuisine. In this way the variety of my roots becomes a source of inspiration.” GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria - where dishes will be deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it your creation… I always start form the ingredients not from the tradition. Consequently I think the local ingredients that we’ll be available during the performance will be the source of inspiration and finally the guarantee of a balance on the plates.

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PHOTO © MONIKA LÖW


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LUKAS NAGL

Born in Upper Austria and into a family where food stood on the highest level. Lukas’s mother always cooked fresh, three courses each day for the whole family. He remembers always watching her cooking and started to learn at a young age. He learnt all the basics from his mother, tried many techniques on his own and later in Restaurant Steirereck. That’s possibly the reason, why his cuisine is genuine with intensive flavors. Lukas Nagl is one of the youngest chefs in the high end gastronomy in Austria. After three years at the famous Viennese Restaurant “Steirereck” he spent one year at the Ocean Lodge in Zanzibar and today Lukas is the Executive Chef of the Traunseehotels. Head of the award winning Restaurant Bootshaus and the entire kitchen of “Seehotel Das Traunsee” as well as head of the entire kitchen of the Symposion Hotel Post. Including the restaurant “Poststube 1327” – a very successful tavern in the center of Traunkirchen. WG September 2017 -

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Not much about having a culinary philosophy, since he sees it all together, all the produce is local because he wants to know the people behind it, it about the friendship with the produces. “Cuisine is shortened to the taste and his inspirations are the best things formed under pressure” says Lukas. Whether the taste of local Porcini mushrooms or fish from the Traunsee, Lukas sets the tone at the gourmet meeting place in the Seehotel Restaurant “Bootshaus”. A gourmet restaurant directly built on a boathouse. The multiple award-winning chef and his talented team convince with their kitchen “A change of values”: Fish, vegetables and meat have the same status here. With the motto “PUR: Products, unadulterated and rare” brings the chef and his team the gustatory stimuli of regional raw materials to the point. GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria - dishes are deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it a creation… “If you do things together something very tasty will rise. We are doing this event together, so there will be no competition, no envy; we will learn from each other on one basis” adds Lukas.

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THE FOREST THROUGH THE LOOKING MIRROR

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PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD


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MAURO COLAGRECO KARIME LOPEZ BO SONGVISAVA

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MAURO COLAGRECO Hail to the gentleman campesino! Hail the Poeta Contadino! A long way he comes! Who would have bet that the once aspiring football star, almost a sans-papiers when he came looking for shelter at Bernard Loiseau, Guy Martin and Alain Passard, would have become one day all France darling. But Contadino he is and Campesino he stays: he stares every morning across the window of his marital bedroom at what he loves the most – after Julia, his sweetie for life… the vegetable garden he daily contemplates, like a zen master sitting by the river bank. Le Mirazur sees the world with Mediterranean pale blue eyes.

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PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD


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KARIME LOPEZ The power of love! She was part of the Central restaurant Holy Trinity, on the left of Virgilio Martinez and on the right of his wife and kitchen master of control Pia Leone. But that was before Mexican born Karime met in NY, at a secret GELINAZ! performance in 2014 at Wylie Dufresne’s, her future husband, Taka Kondo, Massimo Bottura’s Japanese alter ego. Like Magdalena, Karime left all she had for her new man. Now in Modena with him, she takes her time to double think what to do next, how to preach in her own term the Gospel of her Mex-Peruvian-Italo-Jap new world culture.

BO SONGVISAVA Bo + Dylan = Bo.Lan. Two bodies, one soul. Husband & wife run together one of the very best BGK spots – Thai cuisine at its highest level. But with a twist: a multicultural, stylished focus on the traditional family style. It feels like home, simplicity and fresh ideas, comfy and sharp, it feels so good humoured and Thai – it feels totally teen spirited – so so Bo.

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PHOTO © MAJELLA SHEPHERD


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BO SONGVISAVA

Bo Songivsava’s passion and desire to create exceptional Thai food has only amplified over the years since Opening Bo.lan. The husband and wife team, Chef Duangporn Songvisava and Chef Dylan Jones opened Bo.lan in Bangkok in 2009. Bo.lan began with the belief that the best Thai restaurants in the world should be situated in Thailand! Besides the name Bo.lan coming from Chef Duangporn’s nickname ‘’Bo” and the second half of Dylan’s name, “Lan”, it is also a play on the Thai word for vintage or ancient, which sounds the same but is spelled differently… a fitting name for a contemporary restaurant that has strong ties with traditional values. Bo completed her Masters in Gastronomy in Adelaide and returned to Bangkok to pursue her career. She then joined the team at “Cy’an” in the “Metropolitan Hotel”, Bangkok before her move to London to work at “Nahm”. It was there that she met Dylan and together they decided to open an amazing Thai restaurant in her mother country. Since opening Bo.lan Chef Duangporn Songvisava is always campaigning to raise awareness of important issues regarding Thai food and food security. Whether through the restaurant, teaching at several leading Thai universities or while working on her weekly television show, “Eat Am Are” (Thai PBS), she always has a passion to create outstanding Thai food. Since opening Bo.lan Bo has constantly been campaigning to raise awareness of important issues regarding Thai food and food security, whether it be through teaching at several leading Thai universities or on her weekly television Show Eat Am Are (Thai PBS). The Bo.lan team works closely with local farmers, maintaining a social responsibility to the region’s community. They advocate the use of bio diversified produce, which is reflected in the ever-changing menu. WG September 2017 -

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Menus are developed in line with the Slow Food philosophy of using fresh, local, seasonal ingredients and upholding Thailand’s culinary heritage. Their Slow Food philosophy includes supporting biodiversity. Bo adds “We want to use different vegetables, such as snake-skin pear, edible flowers, banana blossoms, betel leaves, local food people don’t typically use because there’s no commercial value to them. Most Thai restaurants don’t use these vegetables because they are not widely available.” The kitchen doesn’t skimp on authenticity for western palates, nor do they shy away from ingredients and flavors that may be unfamiliar to foreigners. “These days people want convenience, and people lose the core of how things get done and why we do things a certain way. A blender cannot replace a mortar and pestle. Preserving our food culture also applies to how we serve the food here. We serve our main course family-style because it is how Thai people eat. Some of our guests don’t understand that we don’t do courses here, and how the main affair comes in the middle. That’s how you get the balance right” says Bo.

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“Bo.lan Balance” is the chef’s interpretation of Thai food by relating inspiration from their discoveries through contemporary journeys, ancient cookbooks & tasty conversations with farmers, artisan producers, fishermen, foraging foodies, and food related professionals. Bo.lan Balance highlights the essence and charm of Thai food. The chemistry in the contrast of flavors and textures is naturally complimentary, a holistic balance. The “a la minute” preparation also emphasizes the third element of Thai cuisine that is often overlooked; the aromatic characteristics. The menu will take you through the culinary culture of Thailand by experiencing communal traditions through Thai food. Bo was named the best female chef in Asia for Bo.lan. The accolades were announced at the launch of the inaugural edition of “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants”, which ranked the top dining destinations in the region. Just as they do for the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, the organizers had a separate category for women. A scan of both main lists shows, however, that the winners are restaurants dominantly run by men. Life for women in restaurant kitchens can be complicated and physically tough. WG September 2017 -

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PHOTO © ANTHONY LANNERETONNE


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MAURO COLAGRECO PHOTO © EDUARDO TORRES

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Argentinian of Italian origin, who arrived in France in 2001 without mastering the language of Molière, Mauro Colagreco has become one of the most promising chef barely a few months after moving to Menton in 2006 ... two steps of the former border that separates France from Italy. After four years working with the best chefs of France - Mauro headed to France and took an internship with Bernard Loiseau, where he remained as demichef de partie until Loiseau’s death in 2003. He then worked in Paris and held the positions of sous-chef de cuisine to Alain Passard at l’Arpège, demi-chef de partie at Alain Ducasse at the Hotel Plaza Athénée, finally spending a year at Le Grand Véfour. In 2006, Mauro decided to open a restaurant around the Mediterranean basin. Spain draws him particular for the language that he knows and Italy because of his origins. Finally, by chance, he chooses Menton and acquired the old address closed for several years.

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“My route into cooking came at a time of crisis for me - I wasn’t sure which direction to take my life in and was at a crossroads, but sometimes this is what leads to the best opportunities. I’d tried to follow in my dad’s footsteps as an accountant, but I just had no passion for it at all, and I also tried to pursue a literary career, but that wasn’t for me either. My sister reminded me of how much I used to love cooking with my grandmother when I was a child. It was this memory that started my journey into discovering my true passion for cooking, and now I could not imagine myself being anything else” says Mauro. His philosophy is all about using the freshest and highest quality ingredients and allowing them to speak for themselves, rather than hiding the flavours with fancy techniques. He is lucky here in Menton to have wonderful produce from markets in France and Italy, which is incredibly fresh and tastes of the sunshine. On the border between the two countries, and have a special microclimate… It’s unlike anywhere else.

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When he comes up with a new dish it’s a way of showcasing an ingredient in a different way, and based on what is growing in his garden and what is in season. “When a vegetable grows naturally next to another, it is that they are meant to be together on the plate” says Mauro Colagreco.

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From this observation was born the desire to develop its own garden. On the heights of the restaurant, Mauro enjoys acres terraces that surround the property. Facing the sea every morning, the brigade just picks the flowers, fruits and vegetables grown without chemical fertilizers or pesticides. In addition to the 39 varieties of tomatoes, one that has a very strong taste of truffle, there is everything a cook can expect: broccoli, beets, watercress, horseradish, wild radish for their leaves, chard blood, arugula, white carrots, yellow or red ... land as a source of inspiration and creativity in the Mediterranean Sea. From this treasure offered by the soil, Mauro has focused its cuisine based on the garden. It has become the heart of his creations. His biggest influence is his surroundings – the ocean and the mountains and my garden, the environment in Menton. It’s such a rich melting pot of cultures and ingredients… the countryside, the surrounding Italian and French villages, the sea… this is what influences him most of all. He takes his inspiration as an Argentinean chef with heritages from Italy and Spain which is quite unusual.

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He has imposed a style of its own in the interpretation of the product and the contrast of flavors. A style that is not rooted in the Italian-Argentine cultural heritage and that doesn’t refer to the great Chefs with whom he worked in France. Mauro Colagreco feels free to express himself by following his intuition that leads him to dig into the local culture on both sides of the border. In Mirazur nothing is fixed. If the menu changes on average every two months, the audacity of Mauro Colagreco is based at his ability to do ephemeral dishes invented for a service, two days or a week. Just because he sees a product that inspires him, Mauro decides to display it on a plate. The creation is born, a symbol of freedom of expression and inspiration of the moment. GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria, where dishes will be deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it your creation… I try to couple flavors that mutually enhance each other to create unexpected taste explosions, to challenge and excite my guests and to make something which works perfectly together. People travel to Mirazur to discover the landscapes of flavors of this region, and I hope to bring the essence of the Cote D’Azur to Austria in August. WG September 2017 -

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KARIME LOPEZ

Growing up in Queretaro, Mexico. Both of Karime’s families always appreciated gastronomy, eating time was always very important it was the time to share…. After finishing college, she decided to go to Paris since she always wanted to study plastic arts, so she started to learn French in order to study in Paris. When she saw all those patisseries and restaurants, she decided that this was what she wanted to do in her life.

Finishing cooking school in Spain, she started working alongside with people that which she call them her mentors - Santi Santa Maria, Enrique Olvera, Andoni Luis Aduriz and Seiji Yamamoto. She collaborate Mater in Lima at Central restaurant doing the R&D and developing the dishes for 4 years. Her inspiration comes from all the places that she has been too, different cultures, landscapes and traditions. And now moving to Modena to have a new inspiration… her husband. Karime’s inspiration to creating a dish is her taught process and creativity which has so many sources that makes her think all the time. Flavours for her is the first beyond the technique, aesthetic, it means a lot because her relation and love to art but she only uses these two if she can enhance the flavour. Her mentors and places that she has been working are the greatest influences but also influences by Mexico, her country, all the flavours, colours and street food all over the world. GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria - dishes deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it your creation… Karime says “I’m here to learn and have fun so with the ideas of Ana Ros which I admire a lot and the guidance of Helmut and Philip, and the twist of the artists is the way to do the balance it’s great to have girls on the team!!!”

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BY THIS RIVER

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DAVID CHANG MAY CHOW LUKAS MRAZ COLOMBE SAINT-PIERRE

PHOTO © TOM MESIC


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COLOMBE ST-PIERRE From Le Bic with love. Colombe is the wild muse of her Canadian region, 600 km away from Quebec City. Nothing but nature just in the middle of nature, circled by her closest circle – an entropy in itself. Expect a joyful, noisy, loud garage pop of extra mastered intuition and down to earth experimentation on fully rich and morphed flavours. Catchy catchiest Colombe: now, you try catch her if you can!

DAVID CHANG Hey, this man used to golf with Tiger Woods before turning the world of cuisine literally upside down! David’s story it’s the story of an idea, of total commitment to a goal: how to keep pushing research and immediate pleasure, funkyness and top notch Asian and Midwestern transmutations. From an indie little neighbourhood restaurant (Momofuku Noodle Bar) then to the blossoming pearls (SSam Bar, Ko in NY, Seiobo in Sydney) Chang-San is THE one and only, mid-outlaw midGreat Gatsby (in flip flops) of today’s cuisine.

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PHOTO © TOM MESIC


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MAY CHOW Little Bao, big May. From Hong Kong with love. Deep in 2013, her SoHo hot spot had the effect of a deflagration. A 25 seats joint devoted to funky & horny food, a dub-step counter for a face to face, one foot into Chinese tradition, the other one into a slurpy and chewy new act of eating and socializing. Past the borders of fine dining, there are no limits to polyamour. Feed and love the other as yourself.

PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD

LUKAS MRAZ Never felt better since he has taken the backpack of the Wandering Oedipus. He could have followed his father steps, in the excellency of his double starred Viennese restaurant, instead to Berlin he went. At the right time, in the right place (the Cordobar wine bar), on the main front of the new German bistronomy. Now that he has sealed at Paul Bocuse his coming into age of reason (28), Lukas has to face a double dilemma: what’s next? Should he settle down? In Berlin or back in his homeland? And what about his girlfriend, running the world as P.J. Harvey road manager? Where and when are they gonna celebrate? Don’t miss next episode of Lukas Mraz’s Season 1. PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD

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DAVID CHANG Chef and Founder of Momofuku, before opening Noodle Bar in 2004, David worked in the kitchens of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud and Tom Colicchio. Credited with increasing the popularity of modern Asian cuisine through his culinary empire, David grew up Growing up in Arlington, Virginia. He was exposed to the restaurant industry from a young age as his father owned two bistros in Washington, DC. Despite this early influence, he did not don an apron, he majored at Trinity College and then worked briefly in finance before deciding to attend the French Culinary Institute. Chang started at Mercer Kitchen and helped open Craft before moving to Japan where he worked at local ramen shops and izakayas. David has received numerous nominations and awards, two Michelin stars for Ko, 2007 James Beard Rising Star of the Year, 2008 James Beard Best Chef: New York City for Ssäm Bar, and 2009 James Beard Best New Restaurant for Ko. In 2012, David Chang was nominated for the James Beard Outstanding Chef award. PHOTO Š GABRIELE STABILE

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MAY CHOW

Chef and owner of Little Bao, May Chow grew up in Hong Kong in a Shanghainese family. Her mother was a great cook and she spent a lot of her childhood cooking with her. “I always loved food from when I was very young. I was very inspired by the Asian American chefs like David Chang, Roy Choi, etc. They were developing a new genre of cuisine. After I worked for Alvin Leung which was the first independent molecular Chinese restaurant that got its three Michelin star, he broke the barrier of what Chinese food is on the international stage. It inspired to tell my story through my Chinese background and integrating it with my American upbringing’ says May Chow. Her cuisine is a modern interpretation of Chinese food without losing the soul or meaning of what Chinese food is. She adds “We explore forgotten recipes and dive deeper into the southern part of China. I create dish by what I eat and what ingredients I see. I travel a lot as well as love modern art and music. I’m a bit all over the place and I get bored easy so experiencing something new is important for me.” WG September 2017 -

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Learning a lot from the local Chinese masters, from the owners of amazing restaurants like Seventh Son, Kin’s Kitchen, Danny from the chairman. She didn’t work for many people and her influences comes from everything she encounters. American chefs were very important to her, as it was her first entry point, so Eric Ripert, David Chang, Roy Choi, etc were all great influences. Gelinaz! Does Upper-Austria - dishes were deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make a creation… “I went with a very open heart because I knew it wasn’t about perfecting dishes. It was being experimental and collaborative and all this story should reflect on the plate. I feel quite comfortable about myself and it’s nice to work with very individualistic amazing chefs that need to respect each other and consider others in creating something truly original and collaborative” explains May Chow May Chow was named Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017. The prestigious award is part of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants programme, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna.

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Growing up in a restaurant family, Lukas Mraz says “Everyone since my great grandfather has been involved in the restaurant business, from coffee brewers, waiters, “Wirt” to Michelin star chef. As soon as I was old enough to think, I was standing in the kitchen helping my father cook. I was obsessed with food. Every holiday we would travel to France, Spain and other food destinations to eat at the best restaurants. You could say my mothers’ milk was Truffles, foie Gras and Pinot noir. I know it sounds awesome but sometimes it wasn’t, I was still a child after all, but it made me what I am and shaped my tastes. There are some dishes I can still taste even now and will never forget.”

LUKAS MRAZ PHOTO © RENE RIIS/ROLLING PIN

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Lukas left home around 17 to attend cooking school. Immediately after graduating he went to work for some of his favorite chefs in Europe - Jean George Klein, Jonnie Boer and Joachim Wissler. Working at these restaurants and being a bit of a rebel, he never understood why great food needed pomp and ceremony. So he decided that he needs to work in a place where it was about great food and not about the way you dress, where you are from or who you are. In 2013, Lukas was asked to become head chef at a wine bar called Cordoba in Berlin. Before this his colleagues expected him to take over his father’s two Michelin starred restaurant or work for another great chef, but he had different plans. Lukas wanted to cook unpretentious food that was interesting, tasty and available to anyone: rich, young, old, poor. So Cordoba seemed like a perfect place to explore this. The owners didn’t really know what they wanted so he just did what I thought was right. Three months ago, Lukas decided to focus on new projects and creativity.


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Creating a new dish… Lukas adds “first the most important thing for me is that we respect our products which means taking the concept of nose-to-tail and applying it to every product we use. I call a dish a “perfect dish” when there is no wastage and all of it is used on one plate; instead of preserving off-cuts for later use that take up time, energy and space in the kitchen. I would prefer to move away from classics menu forms that say ingredients shouldn’t be repeated in a menu.” For example I made a plate from celeriac and kombu. We got a super nice fist-sized celeriac from Potsdam, I used the green to make an oil and then the oil to make a mayonnaise. Then I cut a nice slice out of the celeriac and steam it with its roots. I make a juice and whiles boiling it I infuse some kombu; and then I smoke the juice. The kombu that has been infused would usually to the bin, here we dried and fried it and you have beautiful kombu crisps. This is just kombu and celeriac and still very interesting as you have all textures like crispy, soft and juicy. Sometimes Necessity is the mother of invention! His greatest influence has always been the seasons, the weather first and foremost influence his kitchen. Nothing could have greater influence than this. he wants the best products so what is ripe and perfect makes it to the plate. Balance on a plate at GELINAZ! Does UpperAustria… “To be honest I am not sure balance is what we seek at the Gelinaz. In my opinion we should strive for invention and creativity. I would rather cook something interesting than balanced. This is the platform to be free and lose yourself in creativity. Maybe we will make mistakes and learn from them.” WG September 2017 -

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COLOMBE ST-PIERRE Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin once said “Tell me what you eat, I will tell you what you are”, Colombe St-Pierre believes the same and that’s why she decides to explore different culinary world and how it worked in different places. For nearly eight years, Colombe travelled around the world through Australia, Europe, South Africa, and Asia, when she returned, her conclusion was ‘the way people eat tells the truth about a society. A self-confident woman with a great sense of humour found her cooking influences with her family, her grandmother opened the first French gastronomic restaurant in Rimouski and this selftaught small town girl put Le Bic on the gastronomic map. Diners travel from Quebec City and even from Montreal to savour her passionate cuisine with locally foraged seasonal ingredients. Cooking is a gift, it is an enormous responsibility, to preserve gastronomy a chef must try to cook with a total respect if we want enjoy longer table arts.

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ONCE UPON A TIME ON THE RAILS HELMUT RACHINGER PHILIP RACHINGER ANA ROÅ

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PHOTO © TOM MESIC

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HELMUT & PHILIP RACHINGER Dad & Son. Partners in life and in politically uncorrectness. No generational gap, no hierarchy. Creation is done daily, according to what the market is providing. They upgraded their third generation run hotel in a comfy test kitchen where twice a day every service is a 4 hands / 2 minds tuned in dinner. Two bodies, one soul. Bless them all.

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ANA ROŠ Queen of Slovenia is Kobarid rocking star. A self-taught suffragette leading her own magic kingdom as a Liberation front. Okay, she has also been crowned this year best cheffe of the world. But that’s yesterday’s news. Anyone following her life and gestures, since quite a handful of years, dancing across the hills where she forages and picks up ideas and intuitions, knew that already. Now, what about her charming Prince, Valter aka the beloved, extra handsome faithful husband, also the home visionary wine buff + cheese master of ceremonies, without whom Hiša Franko, their joint venture, would not have been possible? Isn’t it time to crown him too and made them both heroes? I will be your king/and you’ll be my queen (that was David Bowie singing). PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD

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ANA ROŠ Cooking was never the intended path for Ana Roš – especially not in the eyes of her father, a doctor, and her mother, a journalist from a family of diplomats. But her work and studies towards diplomacy came to an abrupt end when she met husband Valter and decided to take over his parents’ restaurant in Slovenia’s remote Soča Valley. She took on the kitchen at Hiša Franko with no culinary training, no experience in running a restaurant and no real desire to give up her ambitious career plans. Almost 20 years later, she has put her country on the gastronomic map, starred in her own episode of Netflix’s hit series Chef’s Table, and been voted by her peers as The World’s Best Female Chef. Roš wasn’t born with a particular desire or passion for cooking has never mattered. She excels at everything she turns her hand to – from languages (she speaks five) to sports (she skied on the Yugoslav national team until the age of 18) to academia (she has a degree in international and diplomatic science). Naturally, then, she turned local restaurant Hiša Franko into a place that would garner international attention – but it wasn’t without its challenges.

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Having gained its independence only in 1991, Slovenia in the nineties wasn’t a hotbed of creativity. Waking up after decades of communism’s relative isolation, it gained the freedom to reimagine local cuisine, rather than taking on myriad global influences. Hiša Franko was a popular restaurant run by Roš’s parents-in-law but it was the free-thinking chef who turned its menu around, introducing creative dishes based on hyperlocal ingredients. Part of the change came from Roš’s curiosity and desire to play around with the region’s produce. Roš’s mother-in-law had a garden and a lake from which she fished trout to feed the family, but she didn’t use these home-grown ingredients in the restaurant. Roš had her eureka moment when she saw a farmer growing sunchokes and feeding them to the pigs and wild boar. She decided to start cooking with the sunchokes and soon the farmer followed suit. Her curiosity sparked that of the locals, who turned their attention to previously ignored and misunderstood produce.

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“My creations are a patchwork of my understanding of the territory, season and my personality. By personality I understand all my life experience, travelling, my childhood. In the last 15 years we have successfully created a chain of local producers, starting from fishermen of Marano Lagunare, which is there sea we can see from our mountains, up to the shepards, farmers, foragers, fishing association which is doing an immense work with preserving original life in our rivers. And if you observe the seasons passing by, you just need to open your mind. This is how most of the dishes are created” adds Roš.

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Roš brought these ingredients into the restaurant, adopting a “zero kilometre” approach and building a food chain of around 60 people, which in turn helped the community to re-establish lost traditions. She began to apply and combine ingredients, creating beautiful dishes such as trout and its liver with white asparagus and pink grapefruit, while Valter, who doubles as the sommelier, started ageing local Tolmin cheese in their cellar. Although there are no Michelin stars in Slovenia and the country is somewhat overshadowed by the culinary successes of its neighbours – Italy and Austria, in particular – Roš has propelled Hiša Franko onto the global gastronomic stage and earned her place among the world’s top cooks. The cosy family restaurant, located in an idyllic rural setting overlooking the lush Soča Valley itself, now attracts customers from across the globe to sample Roš’s unique five- and nine-course tasting menus. GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria - where dishes will be deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it your creation… “This kind of projects are always an interesting challenge because they bring you out of your comfort zone and I am usually taking the risk of failing by not playing it safe. So it may easily happen I will not be able to find a balance but I do promise to do my best” adds Ana Roš Ana Roš follows in the footsteps of Dominique Crenn, Hélène Darroze and Anne-Sophie Pic as The World’s Best Female Chef and says she’ll use the award to change the perception of her tiny country’s culinary status. There seems little doubt she will succeed.

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HELMUT & PHILIP RACHINGER

GELINAZ! DOES UPPER-AUSTRIA AT MÜHLTALHOF I would say that it is not me becoming one of the most innovative and sought after chef, it is more the result which comes out when three generations of chefs cook together and think about food together. Philip Rachinger grew up in the family hotel which has been run for nearly six generations. “My grandmother is a chef, my father is a chef, and am I a chef. To be honest the next question would be “if I always I knew“ it is one of the most asked question straight after and is it really hard to work together with your dad“. It is quite tough to answer them” adds Philip. “Unfortunately I don´t know if I always wanted to become a chef and of course there are always some issues in a family but between when I was around 14-19, I decided to visit culinary school. At that time I heard and read about the chefs like Ferran Adrià, Pierre Gagnaire, Heston Blumenthal, later of course I felt deep sense in the chef scene and heard of names like Redzepi, Nillson, Guzman, Passard, Barbot, Aizpitarte and so on. It really got fascinated by them. At the same time I was working in different very good restaurants in Austria. All of them were doing an incredible great job.

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In the Austrian/German chef’s scene, there was and still is one really influential chef called Eckart Witzigmann, he was the one who brought nouvelle cuisine to Austria; and there was hope. So after finishing school I started to work for Heinz Reitbauer in the Steirereck. After being at home now for 4 years I can say that this was maybe the most important one during my years away from the family hotel. The way of how Heinz Reitbauer held the team together and how he came up with new dishes was just amazing. So after Vienna I left for Pierre Gagnaire and ended up working for Isaac Mchale. I was there for the reopening of their famous young Turcs at the Ten Bells pop up. It was a year later that I was very lucky to end up at Saturne, after being in Paris for three weeks, I really had a hard decision to make, to choose between l´Arpege or Saturne. I stayed at Saturne and I can say it was the right decision. After Paris I returned back home, coming back home was a very easy decision. A phone call from my father who told me that most of his old team had left and that I should come back home. Being back home together with Helmut in the kitchen was a pirority and it worked out from the first day. It is like a 4 hands dinner every night! He suggests some things which he use to do for years and I do a little rework on it. Or the other way around, I show him what I learned in the past and he is doing a remix on that. But to be honest Austria is always a bit behind when it is about food, however all Austrians are full professional skiers. WG September 2017 -

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When you have dinner at Mühltalhof, one really should really taste and feel where there are. Helmut built a great network of producers and farmers over the past 30 years. Just working with freshwater fish instead of the whole variety of seafood. Getting all the vegetables from the nearest farmers, going foraging in the woods around the hotel. This makes it quite unique. But when it comes to inspirations, it gets to be complex. Being isolated (isolated in terms of: a lot a lot of work, no iPhone, no internet, far away from the big city) as the past 30 years was one of the best foundation for a creative mind. The less influence you get from outside the result is going to be more and more you. On the other side now there is me who has seen a lot in the recent years. Working together in teams like at Gelinaz really gives you a lot of input, it opens your mind. You see things from other chefs prospective and you ask yourself: “Fuck that´s so brilliant why wasn’t that my idea?!?“ To be honest of course you pick out the things you really love. And you also see what other people are doing and go in a complete opposite way; and then when we create some new dishes at home which we always doubt. We keep on developing dishes, sometimes we are determine that we have a problem with signature dishes. Doing the same dish too long it’s just boring for us. Maybe it is not really intelligent of us, changing too much! That´s just the way we are doing it at the moment. Maybe we get more professional one day and have a strict recipe for every dish. As you can see there are a lot of “MAYBE’s” but for sure we will give a lot of love and soul to our food.

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“One of our biggest influences is that we try to have as less influences as possible. Of course we see in which direction the contemporary cuisine is going, but still it is about yourself knowing what you want to do and where it goes” says Philip. GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria is a culinary performance by chefs, where dishes will be deconstructed, dismantled and reinterpreted to make it their own creation… “It is about team work and about different ideas coming together on the plate. But what I already experienced by contributing at Gelinaz. It´s more about creating imbalanced-balanced dishes. The result can also be an unfinished WORK IN PROGESS dish which leaves enough room for the next version. Expect the unexpected.”

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ART IS NOT A DESSERT, SAYS THE MAN The desertification of art – through trivialization and banality – needs to be assailed. Inner experience, hearing and “intelligent taste” are fundamental issues, which are challenging the mind through the arts.

CUISINE AND ARTS Today’s cuisine belongs to the world of arts. Ingesting food has – just like culture – morphed from a simple satisfying of a natural need into an aesthetic phenomenon. It is a creative aspiration to elevate a biological function towards a sensual experience in taste. The design and the visual appeal expand the mere necessity. Like we do with the arts, nowadays, we must confront the cuisine with awareness.

BRIDGING CUISINE AND ARTS

A proper experience in arts and haute cuisine requires a cultivation of the palate and perception skills. The “internal balance” is the primary challenge. Hearing and the sense of balance are based in the ear. Our conscience also speaks to us through an “inner voice”. For cuisine and the arts, this “bridging function of the cultivated balancing act” is pivotal in finding the inner balance. Our mission is to build a bridge by combining cuisine and art, based on the principle of surprise and respect. Joachim Eckl , 10.06.2017

PHOTO © TOM MESIC

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ANNA PANGALOU is a vocal soloist performer. She was born in Athens and has lived and studied in Vienna and Rome with a scholarship by the Onassis Foundation and in California Institute of the Arts (CalArts) in Los Angeles as a visiting artist by the Fulbright Foundation. She specializes in contemporary avant-garde music and has performed in concert halls, museums, galleries but also in unconventional sites. Her friends consider her to be a great improviser with food ingredients too.

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ANNEA LOCKWOOD Born in New Zealand, she grew up with rivers which were still wild. Her fascination with them is life-long. She worked her way along the Danube, moving downstream in four long journeys from 2001 to 2004, completing the installation, A Sound Map of the Danube in 2005 when it premiered in the Donau Festival, Krems. It was not commissioned. Twenty years after making A Sound Map of the Hudson River, she found out she wanted to work with water once again, and an insistent question lodged in her mind – ‘What is a river?’ meaning, What is its nature? Trying to sense river-nature by listening to the Donau from its sources to the delta was one of the richest journeys of her life. WG September 2017 -

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JOACHIM ECKL - born on the river Große Mühl where he is running “The HEIM.ART®-Station/Neufelden”, a former warehouse as an “artistic field”. He regards himself as a “social engineer”. Eckl generates impulses for “social sculptures” through creating jointly experiences. Water plays a central role in this work: He understands and uses it as basic element of human interaction. His “river to river-project” brings together rivers and people from all over the world: This generates social warmth. Currently he is working on realizing “Draw the Danube – Build a Bridge” – a project based on the collaboration of 2000 people along the whole stream of the Danube.

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MARCUS KAISER - born in Tübingen, Germany. He studied violoncello at the RobertSchumann-Musikhochschule and fine arts at the Kunstakademie Düsseldorf with Klaus Rinke. He creates large-scale performative installations, work groups that include drawing, architecture, objects, music, video and sound recordings. Kaiser is working in all artistic dimensions at the same time as if they were part of a large rhizomatic assemblage. He is part of the international composers’ group “Wandelweiser”. Kaiser is active worldwide as an artist and musician and has his own garden in Düsseldorf.

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JOHN PISARO is currently studying at California Institute of the Arts in Los Angeles, California, under the direction of Matthew Barbier, James Miller, and Alex Iles, where he plans to acquire a Bachelor’s Degree in Trombone Performance. He actively performs a wide variety of music all across LA’s music venues.

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MICHAEL PISARO born in Buffalo, New York) is a guitarist, composer and a member of the Wandelweiser collective. He teaches composition and experimental music at the California Institute of the Arts.

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WILFRIED SCHARF The music accompanies Mining born zither virtuoso Wilfried Scharf since his childhood. Wilfried discovered the zither as an instrument played in pubs. With his masterly play he succeeded in reactivating this once popular alpine instrument, which almost disappeared in the 1960s. Already in 1989, he set up a zither class at the Anton Bruckner Private University to pass the art of playing this wonderful and often underestimated instrument. In 2010 he became a zither professor. He has also performed for many years all over the world in large concert halls, as a soloist as well as with his ensemble Salzburger Saitenklang and with high end orchestras (Wiener Philharmoniker, Wiener Symphoniker, MĂźnchner Rundfunkorchester, etc.).

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ZANSHIN is a musician, sound artist and producer of electronic music from Vienna, Austria. The name “Zanshin” is a concept from Japanese martial arts and translates roughly as “omnidirectional attention”, reflecting his many inspirations and interests. With his duos Ogris Debris and Depart he has (already) performed or created AV-installations in New York, London, Tokyo, Paris, Moscow, Berlin, Brussels and Frankfurt. Zanshin has a great interest in the culinary arts and wine and at Gelinaz! he will focus on the ephemeral and memorable qualities that food and music share (and create both a sound installation and play a DJ set at the wild final party on Sunday). PHOTO © JÜRGEN GRÜNWALD

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WG MAGAZINE JANUARY 2017

2016 A COLLECTIVE OF CHEFS

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2016 GELINAZ! WWW.WGMAGAZINES.COM

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a feast for the palate...

a feast for the palate...

GÉRALD PASSEDAT

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

YANNICK ALLÉNO®

LE PETIT NICE

A CULINARY HYPOTHESIS

REIF OTHMAN

ANDREA BERTON

EXTRACTIONS A REAFFIRMATION OF TASTE

A MASTERFUL TOUCH

MEDITTERASIAN CUISINE

DAVIDE SCABIN

PACO TORREBLANCA

UP&DOWN

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MAESTRO PASTELERO

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a feast for the palate...

a feast for the palate...

ALBERT ADRIÀ

Tickets To 50 Days

RICHARD SANDOVAL A Mexican Flair

ANNE-SOPHIE PIC

ENRIQUE OLVERA

The Artist With Flavours

MEXICO’S GASTRONOMY

ANDRÉ CHIANG Eight Elements

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MARGOT JANSE

The Magic Of The Kitchen www.wgmagazines.com

DAVID TOUTAIN The World’s Most Gifted Chef WG June 2016 -

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JORDI ROCA

A SWEET PERFECTIONIST www.wgmagazines.com

WORLD’S BEST RESTAURANTS1 WG January 2017 -

ANDREAS CAMINADA A CULINARY GENIUS www.wgmagazines.com

SØREN SELIN

PURE FLAVOR CONCEPT

PAOLO CASAGRANDE

GASTRONOMIC EXPERIENCE WG December 2016 -

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WG - GELINAZ! Does Upper-Austria September 2017 issue