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April 2015

Issue 6 FREE

TOP 10

Sweet Wines 酒

十大甜

SUNSHINE in a bottle: Taiwanese Fruit Wines 瓶子裏的和煦陽光:台灣果酒

East Meets West:

Wine and Moutai Dinner 中西合壁: 葡萄酒與茅台晚宴

Tripping with The Green Fairy; Our look at ABSINTHE

與綠仙子迷醉苦艾酒


Discover South African wine in April and win a trip to the beautiful Cape Winelands Join the Discover South Africa Festival at The Park Lane on 11th April (Saturday) TASTE over 180 wines, SAMPLE South African cuisine, DISCOVER the spectacular winelands, WIN a ticket to Cape Town. Tickets: $180/person, Tel: 2839 3328, banquet@parklane.com.hk Venue: Rooftop Garden, 28/F The Park Lane Hong Kong, a pullman hotel Purchase any South African wine at any of the participating outlet ENJOY special offers, STAND a chance to win a trip to the Cape Winelands. Restaurants:

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Drink Up, Hong Kong! 香港飲勝!

Ali Nicol Founder of Wine Times Hong Kong

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A local Hong Konger who has been working in the wine business for over 15 years. Obviously loves wine and wants to share all the lovely wines with everyone.

ell the year is certainly flying by as expected in this fast paced city and as we head into and beyond Easter we may be more conscious of the increasing humidity than anything else! Yes, it’s our favourite time to moan about the weather and how it is just not physically possible to walk the streets of Hong Kong without shedding litres of sweat! Of course, this time of the year also means we need to start looking at the way we store our wines as, buy the beginning of May it will just be too hot to leave them lying around the house and proper temperature controlled storage will be needed. March came and went in a blur and was on the whole a fairly quiet month with very few visiting winemakers and even fewer tastings! At least we had the HSBC Cathay Pacific Hong Kong Rugby Sevens which we went to and had a great time drinking a few glasses of wine (and a bucket-load of beer too!) March also saw the departure of the lovely Stephy Poon who moved onto pastures new and further her career in the public relations industry. She will be missed as much for her bubbly personality as much as for the work load that she undertook while with us! May I take this opportunity to wish her all the very best in her new career. So, what’s in store for you this month? Well, as the cover would suggest we have taken the theme of spring and written a cover story on some very interesting fruit wines from Taiwan. Yes, we wanted to give you something different from the usual wines that signal the beginning of spring and we were rather impressed

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with these quality products from the independent island. We also take a look at some of the red wines you may like to enjoy over Easter weekend as the kids tuck into their chocolate eggs! Of course, with the time of year signalling all things sweet we give you our Top 10 sweet wines available in the city too. Editor Christie went on a mission to write about one of the world’s most feared spirits, Absinthe – if you don’t know what it is you had better check out her report! We also take a look back at another successful Macau Wine and Dine Festival and head to the former Portuguese colony for a very good, Michelin Starred Indian meal in the Venetian – so no more bad restaurant reviews like in the March issue! Our chef chat section has taken on a new look and this month we head to fine dining restaurant Town in Causeway Bay to talk to Chef Bryan Nagao about his life in the industry and the importance of wine as part of the overall dining experience. We also take a look at some excellent Lebanese wines and pair them with a strangely wonderful Lebanese vegetarian meal in this month’s tasting panel. Anyway, Easter is upon us and as thoughts lead towards chocolate and holidays may I take this opportunity to wish all readers a happy Easter and safe travels over the holiday period. As many of us depart Hong Kong for cleaner air and waters over the holiday period, may I remind you to try the wines from the countries you are visiting and not to be afraid of wines from places you never thought made wine. Cheers!

港生活步伐急速,轉眼間我們已來到四 香 月,相信這月的潮濕天氣比復活節更早 來到迎接我們呢!是的,又來到一年中我們密 密抱怨天氣的時分,惱人的濕度令家居變得極 不舒爽,而漸漸提高的氣溫也開始令你汗流滿 面。在這樣的天氣下,我們也要開始檢查家中 貯存葡萄酒的方法,不然到五月的時候,貯存 不當的葡萄酒可能已壞掉了。

三月份來去匆匆,但整體而言是酒界中較靜淡 的月份,既少有釀酒師到訪香港,更少有試酒 會舉行,但至少我們於香港國際七人欖球賽上 盡慶狂歡過,喝了幾杯又幾杯的葡萄酒,更喝 了無數以酒桶計算的啤酒呢!我們亦於三月初 送別了可愛的Stephy Poon,她離開了WTHK 繼續發展個人事業,如舊從事公關工作。雖然 她的離開使我們工作量增加,但我們定會記掛 她活潑可愛的性格呢。讓我在此祝福她在新的 仕途上前程似錦。 今期的WTHK雜誌中,封面故事的主題圍繞着 春天,特別為讀者介紹了釀自台灣的果酒,我 們認為春天與果酒的關聯甚高,也可讓人認識 到這些來自寶島有品質的果酒。此外,我們也 為讀者推介了兩款適合與巧克力復活蛋配搭的 紅酒,讓你與小孩一同開心過節!這個時分我 們變得愈來愈「思甜」,因此為讀者推介了城 中有售的十大甜酒。而編輯Christie則為讀者 出走,寫寫世上其中一種最使人感到害怕的烈 酒—苦艾酒。若你不認識它的話,就快快看她 的報道吧! 我們也回顧了上月舉行的澳門葡萄酒美食節, 也為位於澳門威尼期人酒店的米芝蓮一星印度 餐館寫下食評—跟三月號的食評簡直差天共 地!我們也更新了專訪主廚的版面,今期我們 找來位於銅鑼灣Town的總廚Bryan Nagao, 請他與讀者分享其作為廚師的經歷。而《飲食 擂台》中,我們讓讀者嚐到了黎巴嫩素食及產 自該地的葡萄酒,兩者竟然意想不到地配合。 復活節來臨,代表着巧克力和假期也正向我們 招手。在此,我祝各位讀者能度一個快樂的 復活節,而打算外遊的則旅途愉快且平安。容 許我提醒一下,外遊時除了好好享受外,還可 嚐嚐當地釀造的葡萄酒,可能你從沒有想過釀 造葡萄酒的地區,往往會帶給你意外驚喜!乾 杯! (Christie Chan譯)

Contact us via email at md@winetimeshk.com


Contents 目錄

2 Drink Up, Hong Kong!

Hello Wine World 4 走進酒世界

7 Sunshine in a Bottle: Taiwanese Fruit Wines

Egg-citing Wines for Easter! 14 復活兔尋酒記

香港飲勝!

瓶子裏的和煦陽光:台灣果酒

17 The Wine Doctor:

Exploring the world of Orange Wines 酒博士專欄:探索橙酒世界

p7 Taiwanese

Fruit Wines

Get Enchated by 18 the long lost Green Fairy 醉心綠仙子:苦艾酒

21 “Join us for Tasting”

Highlights: The Third Macau 26 Wine and Dine Festival

活動回顧:第三屆澳門葡萄酒美食節

28 April's Wine Events

Top 10 Sweet Wines 31 十大甜酒

Panel: Vegetarian vs. Lebanese 飲食擂台:素食 對 黎巴嫩

品酒日曆-四月份

36 A Marriage of Wine, Food and Moutai

Chef Talk: 38 Bryan Nagao of Town

p21 Egg-citing Easter Wines

珠聯壁合:葡萄酒與茅台

主廚出廳: 多國菜餐廳Town的Bryan Nagao

41 Macau: Golden Peacock: A Star of Indian Cuisine

澳門:印度菜之星—皇雀印度餐廳

Whine-On: 48 Ask us whatever you like! 讀者專欄:想問就問!

44 Recruitment in the wine business 行業人才招聘

p18 Absinthe

p21 Lebanese Vegeterian food

p38 Chef Talk@Town winetimeshk.com 3


Christie Chan Editor of Wine Times Hong Kong Almost an alcoholic who thinks the fun part of life starts getting unlocked when you drink. On first impression is not into girly-ness and sweetness; but spirits and liquors.

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我來說,三月份既是傷感,但卻也喜悅。月初先 對 是我的好同事、好朋友Stephy的離開,她告別了 WTHK雜誌,繼續從事公關工作以發展更好的個人事

What made March heartening for me is that I have someone new to love and to hold – my newborn niece. My elder sister gave birth to this lovely baby boy at the end of February making me busy at the weekends as I would love to make time to visit them. Having a new family member is just too exciting and amazing that I would like to share my happiness with you and shout out my March is full of love!

除了傷感的事,三月還滿載着喜悅的事--其中之一 便是我家添丁了。姊姊在二月底誕下小寶寶,母子平 安。因此每逢周末,我也會到姊姊的家,探望小寶寶 和姊姊,令三月份的 每個周末都過得好不 充實。抱着初生的嬰 兒,心裏確是有種莫 名的感動,而家裏增 添新成員也是令人感 到興奮奇妙的事,所 以我想在此與讀者分 享我的喜悅,分享這 個充滿愛的三月。

Working on the April issue of WTHK, I suggested writing a story about absinthe which is something totally new to me and I so much want to learn more about it. The Fortune Goddess granted her smile on me that I had the chance to meet Sven Olsen, an absinthe maker who is not based in Hong Kong so I could only say I was lucky and everything went well with the story! In my opinion absinthe is a hidden gem that has long been unseen by people and it deserves more attention. So please read my article and hope you enjoy reading it as well as drinking absinthe if you have the chance to!

在今期雜誌中,我提 議寫一個關於苦艾酒 的報道,因為我對這 種酒毫無認識,除了 可讓自己多長知識 外,也可讓讀者們對 苦艾酒加深了解,實 在一舉兩得!幸運 地,有一位非駐於本 地的苦艾酒生產商的 創辦人兼總裁Sven Olsen到訪香港,我 有機會可與之詳談有 關苦艾酒的一切,繼 而順利地完成了這篇 報道!訪談過後,我 真的認為苦艾酒顆滄 海遺珠,是種久被低 估的烈酒,值得更多人重新認識這種美酒。如果你也對 苦艾酒不太認識,請你看看我的報道,希望你也能樂在 其中,有機會的話也能嚐嚐這酒!

While I will be out of town for a relaxing vacation enjoying as much sunshine and beaches as I can get to, I wish everyone a Happy Easter; no matter you will be travelling around like I do or staying in town, please drink more to be as happy as the bunny in the picture that he never gets enough of wine!

在我到外地旅遊享受着陽光與海灘之前,我想向各位說 聲:復活節快樂!無論你和我一樣卜金外遊過節,還是 留港享受這幾更假期,請多多享受喝酒:就像圖中的兔 子一樣,多喝點再多喝點!

lot happened in March whereas there were both things saddening and heartening. My lovely colleague and bestie Stephy has moved on from WTHK to further her career and for me this is of course one of the things saddening as working with her was fun and pleasure! I am sure she will be missed at work but I also hope her for the best and the brightest future ahead. (Hugs and kisses for you my baby girl!)

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業。雖然我享受與她一起並肩工作,對她的離開我也感 到婉惜,但在此衷心希望她能有更好的發展,前途無可 限量!(我會想念你的!)


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Sunshine in a Bottle: Taiwanese Fruit Wines 瓶子裏的和煦陽光: 台灣果酒 Spring is finally upon us and as animals awake from hibernation, as do the plants and vines that form the basis of our diet of fruit. This month, for something different we take a look at some unique fruit wines from Taiwan where fruit wines have been made for generations now. Journey with us and taste the fermented fruit from the island and transport yourself from the city to the colourful world of Taiwanese Fruit Wines... Text by Ali Nicol 春風吹起,喚醒大地上的萬物,小動物從冬眠中 甦醒過來,植物的枝芽也蠢蠢欲動,又來到期待 各種水果豐盛生長的季節。今期的封面故事, 我們以台灣釀造的果酒,為讀者帶來春日驚喜。 這些顏色奪目的果酒,由一間家族經營的台灣酒 廠所生產,就讓我們一起探索來自寶島的甜美果 酒。 譯文:Christie Chan winetimeshk.com 7


L

et me just put it out there so we start off on the right foot: I love Taiwan! I love the people; they’re friendly and welcoming, I love the women; they’re beautiful, well mannered and take pride in the their appearance and I love the food; it’s like local food here in Hong Kong; but without the bone, fat and gristle that gets on the nerves of Westerners trying to eat a simple dish without having to spit mouthfuls of debris out onto the table cloth. A recent trip to Kaohsiung last summer really brought home how much of a better lifestyle the Taiwanese enjoy compared to here in Hong Kong. Alfresco dining is embraced and championed with street food stalls making sumptuous and healthy fast food that can be swilled down with a cheap bottle of beer whilst sitting at a table by the side of the road as people get on with their day-today lives. It’s a compelling place that warrants more credit than it is given – and I for one am hoping to retire there (depending on what my wife has to say about that). It seems that our fascist Food and Environmental Health Department (FEHD) could do with learning a little from our Taiwanese counterparts on how to allow your fellow citizens a little bit of enjoyment whilst eating (it’s called being allowed to eat on the street and not be subjected to sub-arctic aircon temperatures that makes your food go cold in an instant).

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One thing that I missed during my trip last summer though was Taiwanese wine. I never saw a single bottle anywhere I went and it seemed to me that Taiwan’s wine production was about as developed as it is in most Asian countries - minimal at best. But there is a serious wine culture on the island; none more so than in the capital Taipei and it’s arguable that the Taiwanese have a better understanding and thus, a more mature wine market than we have here in Hong Kong. There is a small production of Taiwanese table wine but the majority of said wine is consumed (much like in Mainland China) within the boundaries of their territories and with little to none exported, it’s hard to say what these wines are like. However, one style of Taiwanese wine that is available in the city is Taiwanese fruit wines and, I must say they are pretty good and much better than some of the American rubbish on the shop shelves of our local supermarkets. When looking at these styles of wines we must first consider though whether fruit wine can truly be classified as a “wine” per se – or if it is just fruit with a bit of alcohol; something that most Westerners would just categorise as an alcopop or a cooler. The Oxford Dictionary definition of a wine is thus: an alcoholic drink made from fermented grape juice. However, it has been modified in recent years to include the

我把話說在前頭:我愛台灣!我愛台灣 讓 人,他們熱情友善;我愛台妹,她們漂 亮動人,言行舉止都散發着自信;我愛台灣地 道美食,它們與香港美食大致一樣,但對西方 人來說,比起香港美食更易接受,沒有骨頭、 軟骨,也沒有油膩的脂肪,不用吐得滿桌都是 吃不下的部分。 去年我曾到訪高雄,親身感受到台灣人的生活 方式,真的比香港人的好多了。台灣人喜歡在 戶外進餐,坐在街邊一面享受美食,一面看着 街道上的行人熙來攘往;他們也同樣喜愛街頭 小吃,使人吃得豐富飽足而健康,更可隨處買 到一罐便宜的啤酒佐送小吃。台灣確是一個寶 島,值得更多人注意到這個可愛的地方,我也 希望能在此展開退休生活(當然也要看我太太 的意願了)。其實食物環境衞生署可以學習台 灣看看,使香港人也能享受在路邊及露天環境 下進食(至少不用每每在近乎亞北極的室溫下 進食—餐廳內的冷氣會把食物瞬間吹涼)。 然而,去年的台灣旅行中,我卻沒有嚐到台灣 釀造的美酒,只因我並沒有看到任何一枝當地 釀造的葡萄酒,以為台灣也和其他亞洲國家一 樣,其產量規模微乎其微。不過,葡萄酒文化 正在這個寶島上興起,不僅只在台北,其他地 區的台灣人也開始愈來愈懂喝葡萄酒,可能還 比香港的葡萄酒市場更加成熟。台灣小規模的 餐酒生產與中國內地一樣,其出產成品多為本 地人飲用,出口國外的為數甚少,因此也不容 易找到釀自台灣的酒品。 不過,我們找到其中一款台灣出產的酒品並於 香港有售,那便是今期封面故事的主角—台 灣果酒。我得說這些果酒的確不錯,甚至比 某些產自美國、超市有售的果酒味道更佳。 對於其釀造果酒的方法,這些酒能歸類為 「Wine」的類別嗎?抑或只是含水果味的酒 精飲品,也就是西方人統稱為「Alcopop」或 「Cooler」?


牛津詞典裏對「Wine」的釋義為:由葡萄發 酵而成的酒精飲品。然而,這個詞語的釋義曾 經經過修改,現為:由水果或植物的發酵果汁 或汁液而成的酒精飲品。所以,你現在可以對 着那些以為只有葡萄酒才是「Wine」的無知 者,當着他們的面指出他們的誤解,因為幾乎 任何東西也可釀造出「Wine」!英國著名的 果酒(或統稱Wine)包括由骨木花、薑及蜂蜜( 即蜂蜜酒Mead)釀造。 親身目睹、感受過台灣風情,了解到這島的成 功之處倚重於其自給自足的特點,台灣人的衣 食住行不會完全依靠外國進口。而台灣擁有幅 員廣大的可耕農地,當中不小面積用以種植粟 米、稻米和水果。台灣農民也種植葡萄以供本 地人食用,也同時用以釀造小部分葡萄酒,但 這次我們想為讀者介紹的是以其他水果釀造的 果酒,最適合於春天時分享用,也可使它們成 為均衡飲食的一部分。 這些來自台灣的果酒由上村酒廠釀造,其酒廠 位於台中阿里山腳下的嘉義。在品牌SunVill 下,酒廠共釀造出8種口味的果酒,包括蘋 果、梅子、香桃、菠蘿、士多啤梨、柚子、藍 莓和荔枝,當中士多啤梨口味最為缺貨,由於 台灣的士多啤梨失收,不足以供應釀造果酒, 因此士多啤梨果酒的供應亦不多。從酒瓶倒出 來的就像是一束束的陽光,果酒香味仿如真的 水果一樣,味道整體較甜而嚐不到其酒精的濃 烈,因其酒精酒含量只有8.5%,所以十分適 合春天及初夏飲用,與親友們共聚時作為餐前 酒,場合可以是在小花園舉行派對,或是燒 烤,又或是坐在船的甲板上邊曬太陽邊喝上 它。(我們猜想這些果酒也可用於烹飪之上, 可以煮成美味的醬汁,或用作製作甜品時淋上 薄薄的甜汁,例如Pavlova蛋糕) 上村酒廠為家族式經營的酒廠,現由兒子繼承 父業,不僅以代代相傳的釀酒技術去釀造葡萄 酒,兒子更創新地以其他水果釀造果酒,更令 酒廠揚名海外。有別於外國常見的果酒,這酒 廠所釀造的果酒以日本清酒為酒基。

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following definition alongside: an alcoholic drink made from the fermented juice of specified other fruits or plants. So, we can throw the devil’s advocate back down his fiery pit and say to those that think only wine made from grapes is a true wine that wine is an all encompassing drink that can be made from pretty much anything. Famous fruit (or otherwise) wines in the United Kingdom (for example) include Elderflower, Ginger and Honey (otherwise known as Mead). Returning back to Taiwan one must remember that a large part of the country’s success is its ability to be self sustaining – that is, it does not completely rely on imported goods to feed, house, clothe and otherwise its population. There is an abundance of agriculture on the island and a vast proportion of that is devoted to perishables such as corn, rice and, of course, fruit. Grapes too are grown to feed both the stomach and the palate, but it is the fruit wines of Taiwan that recently caught our attention and, with the onset of spring, we thought it an opportune time to tell you of the delights of Taiwanese fruit wines and how they can be incorporated into a balanced diet. The Taiwanese wines that are available here in Hong Kong come from the Sun

Village winery in Minxiong Township in Chiayi County and are labelled under the SunVill brand. The wines come in 8 fruit flavours; Apple, Plum, Peach, Pineapple, Strawberry, Pomelo, Blueberry and Lychee – although the strawberry wines are now very hard to come by due to a poor strawberry crop this year in Taiwan. They are literally like sunshine in a glass and at only 8.5% alcohol are perfect for the early spring and summer days as they are a great representation of the fruit they are made from, not too alcoholic and are, on the whole, quite sweet so make for a perfect aperitif whilst entertaining friends or guest prior to a garden party, barbeque or just sitting out on the deck of your boat (we imagine they would be great to cook with too – probably used as

an ingredient in some delectable sauce or coulis for a dessert like Pavlova). In fact, the winery is a family business and as a son follows in the footsteps of his father, so this is true for Sun Village Wines. They do make traditional grape wine and this winemaking technique has been passed down from generation to generation, but it was the pioneering son whose foray into fruit wine has brought international success to the winery. However, this fruit wine is sake based giving it the kick of alcohol required (and not often seen) in generic Western fruit wines. Sitting in the Wine Times office with editor Christie Chan, we dived into the wines and our overwhelming favourite was the pineapple although it was, strangely enough the one that tasted the least of the fruit it was made from. My thoughts were that it was more like an aged and slightly oxidised Burgundy white – but there was some discernible pineapple flavours on the palate. But the overwhelming nuance that was present on the palate was Christmas pudding making it a very interesting and overall very drinkable wine. The Lychee wine was undoubtedly the wine with the most alluring aromas that really just smelled like lychee

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juice! Christie noted that it would be easy for kids to mistake this wine for a fruit juice and the weight on the palate would seem to suggest the same! In all, it was like a glass of fresh fruit both on the nose and on the palate with great acidity which regulated the sweetness nicely. The palate is much less pronounced than the nose, but overall would make a lovely aperitif wine. The Blueberry Red Wine is the only one that is blended with actual grape red wine and looks just like red wine in the glass. On the nose it gives aromas of blueberry tart and shows very little aromas of the red wine it’s blended with. On the whole, it’s a very pleasant drink with a short abrupt finish making it a good quaffing wine but there is a subtle tannic presence on the finish which makes it the most like a grape wine of the entire range. The Peach Wine shows and orange / peach colour in the glass and the aromas are just like smelling the outer skin of a real peach. It’s extremely delicately perfumed and there is a definite aroma of nougat exuding from the glass. There is a wonderful array of all round mouth flavours that leave a medium finish that is bursting with fruit and reminds the drinker of peach candy – but without the excess fruit. Finally, the Plum wine – which was the sweetest wine of the range – was tested and we found huge aromas of candy shop and is needed (unlike the others) to be drunk very cold to reduce the somewhat cloying nature of the wine. It’s like bubblegum plum on the palate and is reminiscent of an English Cider or Perry on the finish making us think that it would make an interesting sparkling wine!

我們於WTHK的辦公室裏進行了一個小型試酒 會,我與編輯Chrisite Chan一同嚐過這些來 自台灣的果酒,結果我們二人均認為最吸引的 口味是菠蘿果酒。奇怪的是,菠蘿口味比起其 他口味偏偏與原本的水果最不相似,個人認為 它像陳年而有點氧化的勃艮地白酒,其味道帶 有明顯可辨的菠蘿果味,但其香氣卻像英式 聖誕布甸,是一枝有趣而又令人想繼續喝的果 酒。 荔枝果酒的香氣無疑是最香氣四溢的口味, 而且十足十真實的荔枝果汁!Christie指,小 孩子可能會把這果酒當作果汁,因為就連其質 感也像荔枝果汁一樣!總的來說,這酒的香氣 與口味猶如真的水果一樣,帶有恰到好處的果 酸,中和着果甜,令兩者相得益彰,不過味道 比香氣較不強烈,整體來說是枝可口的餐前 酒。 藍莓紅酒口味是唯一一款加入葡萄紅酒的口 味,其酒體及顏色亦與一般紅酒無異。不過, 嗅嗅杯中的酒香,只有藍莓果撻的香氣,一點 紅酒酒香也嗅不着。這果酒的餘韻短促,帶有 溫和輕微的單寧,就像是由所有不同葡萄品種 所混合而成的酒,相當容易入喉。 香桃果酒呈橙色/香桃色,而其香氣真實得就 如嗅到香桃的表皮一般,香氣撲鼻得令人無法 抗拒,當中也帶有一點鳥結糖的香味。這果酒 具中度餘韻,最後所有味道在口腔內停留,讓 人想起香桃味的糖果,但不至於過於濃烈。 最後,來到甜度最高的梅子口味,我們認為其 香甜的氣味令人聯想到糖果店,而且有別於其 他口味,這果酒口感較黏膩,需要在低溫冷藏 後才飲用。它的口味像是梅子吹波膠,其餘韻 令人想起英式氣泡果酒(Cider)或是梨酒(Perry),因此我們猜想這果酒或可加工製成有趣 的氣泡酒呢! 台灣SunVill果酒售價為每枝$110,並於代理 商La La La Hong Kong Limited有售(地址: 尖沙咀諾士佛臺9號冠福中心1204室)。欲索 取產品詳情,請與Elsa Lee聯絡,電郵地址: elsa@lalala.com.hk;電話: +852 3990 0449。

SunVill Taiwanese fruit wines are $110 per bottle and are available in Hong Kong from La La La Hong Kong Limited (Address: Rm 1204, Koon Fook Centre, No. 9, Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui). For more information contact Elsa Lee by email on elsa@lalala. com.hk or by phone on +852 3990 0449

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Egg-citing Wines for Easter! Text by Ali Nicol Photography by Christie Chan

復活兔尋酒記

譯文、攝影:Christie Chan

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aster is always one of the best times of the year for kids and chocoholics alike as it’s the time when the Easter bunny delivers his chocolate eggs and people break their fast of Lent allowing them to indulge in the delights that, for the forty days prior to Easter Sunday are forbidden. Seemingly these days very few Christians fast during Lent; many give up some of their favoured things (much like a short term New Year’s resolution) but seldom in the 21st century do people follow the rules of fasting, penance and prayer. Chocolate is often described as ‘sinful’ and thus is often something that many people resist during Lent. Therefore, Easter signals a time when you can break the fast – and what better thing to break the fast with then something delightfully and sinfully indulgent. But actually, chocolate Easter eggs have nothing really to do with Easter per se. The tradition of eggs at Easter can be traced back to the early Christians of Mesopotamia 14 winetimeshk.com

who stained real eggs red to signify the blood of Christ. Additionally, eggs were something that were cherished in days gone by as they were one of the foods that was forbidden during Lent and, as all the eggs in one’s houses had to be used up before the fast of Lent, then the fast was often broken with the symbolic egg. Decorating eggs is a popular past time still to this day but the tradition can be traced back almost 5,000 years to the time of the early Sumarians and Egyptians who decorated eggs in gold and silver to be placed in the graves of nobility or loved ones. Decorated Ostrich eggs have been found in Africa too that have been dated as far back as 60,000 years which means that the ritual of egg decoration pre-dates Christianity and is something that was adopted by the religion at a later date. But back to the chocolate! Basically, these days your kids would probably disown you if you gave them a real chicken’s egg for Easter so

小孩們和為巧克力瘋狂的人來說,復活 對 節必定是一年裏其中一段最美好的時 光,復活兔會送上巧克力復活蛋,而基督教教 徒40天的齋期也到此為止,可以再次盡情吃 喝。來到今天,只有少數基督教教徒會牢牢遵 守齋期,期間有人或會放棄自己喜歡的事物( 就像是短暫的新年目標),但生活在廿一世紀 的教徒甚少會謹從齋期禁食、懺悔及祈禱的誡 條。 為復活蛋塗上斑斕的色彩由古至今依是流行的 慶節活動,其歷史可追塑至5,000年前,蘇美 爾人及埃及人以金銀製作蛋形裝飾,放置在貴 族或深愛的人的墓穴裏作陪葬品。非洲也曾出 土過60,000年前加以裝飾的鴕鳥蛋,證明製作 蛋形裝飾的傳統比基督教出現得更早,只是後 來被宗教列入為其齋期儀式。 還是先把注意力放回主角巧克力身上!假如你 在復活節給小孩一隻真的雞蛋,相信先離棄對 方的是他吧!這也解釋了巧克力復活蛋的誕生 ──全球不論大人或小孩也喜歡吃。許多基督 教節日也少不了巧克力的份兒,從情人節到聖 誕節,無一不吃上巧克力,但要數到其貴為主 角的節日,則非復活節莫屬。 如果你是個嗜甜嗜巧克力的成年人,配上紅酒 來享用它便最好不過了。每年來到這個時節, 腦子空空而又想不到寫作題材的博客,就會在 網上發表如何配搭巧克力復活蛋及葡萄酒的文 章,而且多數都以甜酒為題。不過,我們的想


thus the chocolate egg was born – much to the delight of children world-wide and probably many adults too! Chocolate is used in many Christian festivals these days from Christmas to Valentine’s Day but no religious holiday gets more chocolate attention than Easter. If you are a chocolate-loving adult then there is no better drink to sip whilst indulging in chocolate than a drop of red wine. Really, when it comes to pairing Easter eggs and wine we should leave that to the Bloggers who have nothing better to write about when this time of the year comes around. We are sure you will see many articles in the coming week about sweet wines for pairing with chocolate, but we think the best thing to do is pair it with a nice dry red wine that has some discernible fruit characteristics but is not too fruit sweet. Sweet foods on the whole need dry wines to pair with them; but the anomaly about chocolate is that it’s actually not sweet at all. Sure, those horrible milk chocolate eggs that are made with a chocolate with a minimum concentration of cacao are the most popular and most evident at this time of year; but true chocolate lovers will tell you that milk chocolate isn’t really chocolate at all! Sadly, the customer is king in this world of commerce and making an Easter egg of 90% cacao would a) be too bitter for most (especially kids) to handle and b) be way too expensive for most people to afford these days. Therefore, to go with the modern day chocolate Easter egg we recommend you two

wines this Easter that will make your Easter Sunday (after church of course!) much more pleasurable than just eating cheap chocolate! Our first is a wine from (close enough to) the cradle of civilisation; Lebanon. The Chateau Ksara Reserve de Couvent 2010 is a wine that has taken some time to get ready to drink but is drinking beautifully now with a dry palate, some signs of age and a long lingering finish that makes it a very pleasurable wine indeed. This is the kind of wine you want to eat with chocolate as it is dry and not overly fruity meaning that, if you have a slightly sweeter chocolate, the pairing will contrast as opposed to conflict. The wine is only $170 also making it a good affordable choice for Easter weekend and is available from Red Mill Limited in Hong Kong. Secondly, we think that a nice Farmers Leap Shiraz from South Australia would also make a fun and indulgent paring with some chocolate (and it works because we have done it on numerous occasions with this wine). It’s not a wine for the weak, nor a typical fruit bomb from Australia. Sure, its high alcohol content may put some people off but it’s the silky smooth, velvety palate that we love and something about the mouth feel actually reminds us of eating chocolate. It’s dense, but not a fat wine and the creamy, silky texture is so well complimented with chocolate you will find that in no time both the wine and the chocolate have been finished! Farmers Leap Shiraz is available for just $185 for the 2012 vintage from Vinspiration Hong Kong.

法有別於一般「行貨」,認為配搭巧克力的葡 萄酒是乾身而帶點水果質感的紅酒,但絕不是 甚具果甜的那種紅酒。 一般而言,甜食需要配上口感乾澀的葡萄酒, 但巧克力的奇妙之處就是它不盡是甜味。當 然,有不少復活蛋以可可含量極低的牛奶巧克 力來造,其甜味之高並非人人能享受或接受。 真正的巧克力愛好者會認為,牛奶巧克力根本 不是巧克力家族的真正成員!可惜的是,消費 者在商業世界中為「話事人」,製造可可含量 達90%的巧克力復活蛋,第一,其味道太苦( 尤其對小孩而言);第二,其成本價格太高, 令普羅大眾較難負擔,因此商家均捨難取易。 有見及此,為現時常見的巧克力復活蛋配上美 酒,我們特地為讀者推介兩款紅酒,使那些價 格便宜的巧克力復活蛋可變得更可口,讓你度 過一個更美好的復活節星期天!(當然在主日 崇拜之後!)第一款紅酒來自(或接近)「文明搖 籃」:黎巴嫩。Chateau Ksara Reserve de Couvent 2010已經陳擺過,現已來到適合飲 用的時機。這酒口感乾澀,較能喝得出它的陳 舊,其餘韻長而久久不散,是枝能令人愉悅的 美酒。它很適合與巧克力一同享用,其乾身及 不重果味的特質,與稍稍較甜的巧克力形成 對比,而非強烈的抗衡。這款紅酒於零售商 Red Mill Limited in Hong Kong有售,價格 為$170,歡度這個復活節周末也不算是難以 負擔吧。 其次,我們認為釀自澳洲的Farmers  Leap Shiraz紅酒與巧克力也是個相當有趣肆意的配 搭(這配搭經過多次試驗,百分百配合的)。這 酒非一般人能夠享受箇中美妙,也是非一般產 自澳洲、充斥着濃濃果味的紅酒。沒錯,它的 酒精含量較高,一般飲者或許不能太接受,但 其口感如絲般順滑,那種柔滑的質感確實令我 們想起吃巧克力的感覺;其質感厚重而不膩, 順滑柔美的口感與巧克力配搭起來,兩者就在 不知不覺間消失溶掉了!這款紅酒於零售商 Vinspiration Hong Kong有售,價格為$185。 winetimeshk.com 15


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THE WINE DOCTOR: Exploring the world of Orange Wines 酒博士專欄:探索橙酒世界 by Maurizio Galli

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A passionate wine aficionado and educator who believes in a non-pretentious approach to wine. Having a soft spot for obscure and exotic wine regions, he quickly gained a reputation of wine nerd under Red Mill’s umbrella.

range what? I know orange wine sounds just like the latest style created by a congregation of hipsters or the recipe a clueless drunkard would come up with to fight his cold. But if you’re not familiar with it, I can assure you that orange wine is a real thing and yes it’s a little bit of an “underdog” of wines and no, it has nothing to do with fermented orange juice, nor the latest trend in Hot Toddy alternatives. In one sentence, orange wine just gets its name due to its appearance; usually somewhere in between orange and amber in colour. But what exactly is orange wine? In ancient history orange wine could in fact be referred to as white wine, with its origins dating back thousands of years in the area around Georgia. Evolution in modern white wine making which prefers to avoid skin maceration pushed modern producers and wine lovers, looking to revive this style, to coin the term “orange wine”, acknowledging that it is now a style of its own, along with red, white and even rosé wine. Simply put, in today’s wine world, one could define orange wine as a return to the past and in an arrogant and simplistic way as “white wine pretending to be red wine”. Let me explain: In modern days, most white wines are separated from their skins and pips immediately after the grapes are pressed, however orange wines take grapes used for white wine and, like a red, leave them macerating in contact with their skins, which is why Italians call orange wine, “vino bianco macerato” or literally “macerated white wine”. This process of maceration can go on for few days, weeks, months, or in extreme cases even years depending on winemakers’ preferences, defining the colour tone but more importantly the tannin structure and various flavour profiles. You may be wondering what it tastes like? Flavours, structure and tannins like any other wine style depend on the overly used term of “terroir” and ultimately on stylistic choices by winemakers which include grape varieties used, maceration time on the skins along with type of material

used for ageing and maturation such as oak, steel, concrete or for the joy of hipsters: clay. This being said a common trait from producers in Friuli-Venezia Giulia in the North East of Italy, who pioneered the revival of Orange wine in the 90’s and remain among the most iconic producers of orange wine, you can find ripe fruits leading to a distinct peach and apricot but you can find others with more herbaceous and floral characters. However in a very “Keep It Simple Silly” explanation, drinking a nice orange wine is like having white wine while bringing the pleasures of freshness and at the same time finishing with quite pronounced tannins, making this style of wine best appreciated not overly chilled (no less than 12°C) or in some instances at room temperature like red wines. Ideally some nibbles would definitely soften up the tannins and help you enjoy these wines better, although orange wine remains versatile enough to prevent over thinking food pairing options. Finally orange wine is mostly made by small producers who more often than other commercial producer use very little intervention in their vineyards, promoting if not “natural wines” then sustainable farming. Definitely worth trying and among the best producers that I had the pleasure to encounter, I can recommend Dario Princic who among many styles makes a delicious Bianco: a fresh and fragrant blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. In addition from producer Radikon, his Jakot is a beautiful and complex Tokaj, with gorgeous notes of peach and almonds. In Hong Kong there aren’t many options to enjoy Orange Wine but luckily if you are out and planning to have some, you can head over 121bc on 42-44 Peel Street and ask for some recommendations as they have a broad range of top notch orange wine (they use the Italian term “macerato”). Just don’t ask for fermented orange juice! Cheers.

甚麼酒?也許橙酒聽上去像是由一班所 橙 謂潮人發明,又或是一個頭腦不清醒的 醉酒者,為了暖暖身子而忽發奇想地創作出 來。但若你對橙酒不認識,我可以告訴你它是 真有其物的:對,可能它是葡萄酒的「喪家 犬」,但它並非由橙汁發酵而成,也非取代雞 尾酒Hot Toddy成為熱潮的飲料。一句到尾, 橙酒之所以被稱為橙酒,原因在於它的顏色, 其顏色範圍可由橙色到琥珀色。 那橙酒到底是甚麼?很久很久以前,歷史上所 指的橙酒其實就是白酒,起源於幾千年前的喬 治亞地區一帶。經過釀酒技術的演變,現代釀 酒術偏向令葡萄接觸不到葡萄果皮,減少葡萄 酒從果皮的色素着色,然而現代的釀酒商及愛 酒人士卻想復興橙酒,使其成為葡萄酒的一種 風格,與紅酒、白酒及玫瑰紅酒並駕齊驅。橙 酒可說是歷史遺留下來的產物,但簡單帶點諷 刺而言,它是「偽裝成紅酒的白酒」。 讓我來解釋:現代釀造白酒的造法,多數在榨 取葡萄後分隔開其果皮,但橙酒則不然,釀造 時不將葡萄果皮分隔開,像紅酒一樣,因此意 大利人稱橙酒為「vino bianco macerato」, 字面解釋為「經浸漬的白酒」。浸漬過程可由 數天、數周至數月,更有極端例子以年計算, 視乎釀酒師對酒色的個人取向,更重要是決定 葡萄酒的單寧結構及味道層次。 猜想橙酒的味道如何?與其他葡萄酒風格一 樣,當中的口味、結構、單寧主要視乎當地風 土(terrior,被廣泛濫用的字眼),也視乎釀酒 師的個人風格,如釀酒的葡萄品種、浸漬時 間、用以發酵待陳容器的物料,包括橡木、 鋼、水泥,或是潮人之選:黏土。意大利弗留 利(Friuli)的酒莊於90年代帶頭復興橙酒,目 前仍是最具代表性的橙酒產區,其釀造出來的 橙酒充滿熟果果味,當中香桃和杏子的味道很 突出,也帶有其他味道有如草本植物及花香 味。然而,以「白痴也看得懂」的語言來說, 喝到一枝好的橙酒就如喝白酒時,喝到當中的 清新而又不乏單寧,因此不適宜在過度冷藏 橙酒下享用(不應低於12°C),又或者可與紅酒 一樣在室溫下飲用。在享用橙酒時,最理想當 然是有東西可以「咬」,讓酒中的單寧軟化一 點,使你能更享用這種酒,而其實橙酒也易於 與各種食物配搭,它多用途的特性不會令你想 食物配搭而抓起頭來。 橙酒多數由小型的酒莊釀造,這些酒莊與一般 商業化酒莊不一樣,他們偏向以「自然而然」 的方式釀造葡萄酒,亦即是所謂的「天然葡萄 酒」,或是可持續耕作。整體而言,橙酒絕對 值得試試的,而以我曾喝過的橙酒而言,我可 推介Dario Princic酒莊的Bianco以及Radikon 酒莊的Jakot。橙酒在香港並不常見,但你可 到位於中環的意大利餐廳酒吧121bc,嚐到多 款一流的橙酒。只是記緊不要點叫發酵橙汁便 好了! (Christie Chan譯)

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Get Enchated by the long lost Green Fairy 醉心綠仙子: 苦艾酒

Text and Photography by Christie Chan 圖文:Christie Chan

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any of the most beautiful and charming things in the world are profoundly involved with culture and history, be it the fascinating sophisticated city Paris, mysterious ancient architecture of the Egyptian pyramids, or the miracle that is Mother Nature. Unfortunately sometimes these gems can be buried in history for false or faulty reasons making the people of today not notice them; which is definitely a loss for all. Here at WTHK I am so glad to have the chance to dig up the long forgotten gem and share it with our readers – Absinthe, “the green fairy” (French: la fée verte). One of the best ways to learn about something you are not familiar with is to ask questions and learn from answers; and the shortcut is to ask someone who is professional and owns the expertise on the subject. As lucky as I am, I had the opportunity to spend an hour chatting with Sven Olsen, Founder and CEO of Metropolitan Spirits Group which produces La Mansion Fontaine absinthes in Pontarlier, France (centre of 18 winetimeshk.com

absinthe production), so as to learn about the product from zero knowledge. Absinthe is a green (verte) or white (blanche) coloured spirit with high alcohol content from 45% to 72% which is infused with grand wormwood, green anise and fennel as the base, and other herbs for extra flavours. It is believed that the origin of absinthe was from Ancient Egypt when it first appeared around 1,500BC but the first solid evidence that showed it was actually invented by a French doctor living in Couvet, Switzerland during the French Revolution, Pierre Ordinaire, who devised absinthe as an all-purpose medical potion in the late 18th century. Later on after the death of the doctor, the recipe of absinthe was passed down and people started making and drinking it ever since. It could be considered as “the hipster alcoholic beverage” in Europe at the time because it was so popular that famous artists, writers and intellectuals loved the drink; well-known drinkers are Vincent van Gogh, Pablo Picasso, Ernest

界上許多絢麗迷人的事物,大部分都擁 世 有深厚的歷史及文化底蘊,不管是充滿 引人入勝歷史痕跡的巴黎,還是神秘的古埃及

建築金字塔,或是奇妙無比的大自然,其共通 點也是經歷無數年月的洗禮。然而,有時這些 美麗的事物,或會因世事不盡完美而被歷史活 埋,使人漸漸遺忘了它的存在,令人感到婉 惜。可幸的是,WTHK有機會於今期雜誌中, 為讀者尋得一種失落的美物—「綠仙子(法 文:la fée verte)」苦艾酒。 與Metropolitan Spirits Group的創辦人及總 裁Sven Olsen訪談前,我對苦艾酒完全沒有 認識,幸而邀得這位據於法國朋塔雷(Pontarlier,生產苦艾酒的勝地)的苦艾酒生產商,請 他為我們介紹苦艾酒,可謂走上了捷徑去知道 更多有關這美酒的一切。 苦艾酒是一種高酒精濃度的烈酒,其酒精含 量由45%至72%不等,而顏色分別為綠色及 透明兩種,由三種基本香草浸泡而成,分別為 苦艾草、綠茴芹及茴香,也可加入其他香草 以豐富酒的香味及味道。有說苦艾酒源於公元 前1,500年的古埃及,但在歷史記載在18世紀 末,其由一位居於瑞士庫維特的法國藉醫生研 製而成,本為醫治多種疾病的藥水。苦艾酒的 配方自該名醫生去世後得以流傳下來,始後人 們開始製造及飲用它。 苦艾酒可謂當時歐洲最「潮」的酒精飲品,許 多名畫家、作家及知識分子均喜愛喝它,連梵


Hemingway, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Oscar Wilde and so on. Even the normal “happy hour” was renamed as “the green hour” owing to the rise of this beautiful drink. As tragic as it seemed, this gem had been rated from love to hatred in the early 1900’s due to rumours and scandals claiming drinkers would be out of their mind and thus they take evil actions such as murder. Absinthe was then banned from drinking and making in many European countries for the following century and the long exile was finally over in the 2000’s simply because it’s been proven to be just a regular spirit. Absinthe was originally crafted green in colour, making me curious about its white colour and wondering if there are other colours of absinthe. Sven explained that in the old days about 90% of absinthe were green and 10% were white; however after the ban on the product both production and consumption became illegal, while some people were still very much in love with the drink so they secretly produced it white in colour in regard to easy disguise as other alcohol. Sven noted that there is pink absinthe too. Here with expert absinthe maker Sven, of course we have to get to grips with the production of this drink. Firstly, put dried herbs into distilled alcohol with 82% alcohol content and leave it overnight to macerate. After the scented oil from the herbs are extracted and mixed into the alcohol, filtration comes second and the last step is to dilute it from 82% to a

drinkable level and also as the maker desires. With absinthe back on stage and as the younger generation becomes a more significant group of spirits consumers, drinking absinthe has not yet been a trend among youngsters simply because they have no idea about it. Sven pointed out the importance of educating both bartenders and drinkers about the product. “People don’t go to a bar and ask for absinthe, but when they see the absinthe fountain standing on the bar they get interested. And people behind the bar have to tell them more about this product such as how it is served.” Similar to the English tea culture, absinthe drinking also has its own culture as it is designed to be served with a set of specific tools including an absinthe fountain slowly dripping ice cold water, an absinthe spoon for placing a sugar cube on and an absinthe glass. In this way, absinthe is added with sweetness from the sugar cube and diluted with iced water, making it as easy drinking as an herbal cocktail. Fancy going on a date with the green fairy? Pay a visit to The Continental bar at Pacific Place in Admiralty as there will be 12 to 15 absinthe brands to choose from their menu along with 6 cocktails mixing with absinthe in no time. If you are dedicated to hang out with all the green fairies, please be aware of the magical power of the fairies and “spirits”; not only will they enchant you but also make you way too tipsy!

指,有釀酒者也釀造出粉紅色的苦艾酒。 難得能與釀造苦艾酒的專家Sven對話,當然 要問問他這酒是如何釀製出來的。首先,把水 分已被抽乾的香草加到經過蒸餾、酒精含量達 82%的烈酒當中,然後讓其浸漬整晚,待香 草中的精華及油份與酒精混和。然後,把酒精 進行過濾程序,再把其酒精含量降低至可喝水 平,或釀酒師心目中的理想水平。 經過了整整一個世紀,苦艾酒才真正返回烈酒 的大舞台,可惜作為主要消耗群之一的年輕族 群,卻對苦艾酒一無所知,以致其銷量遠遠低 於其他烈酒。Sven指,讓飲者及調酒師重新認 識苦艾酒是生產商的首要任務,他說道:「人 們到酒吧時並不會主動點叫苦艾酒,但如果他 們看到有個苦艾酒泉放在吧臺上,很可能對此 好奇而感興趣,而這時在吧臺後的調酒師就該 向客人介紹一下這種酒,例如喝它的形式。」 與英式品茶文化一樣,苦艾酒也有其獨特的一 套品嚐方法,當中用具包括苦艾酒泉、苦艾酒 匙及苦艾酒杯。在飲用時,準備好盛滿冰水的 苦艾酒泉,然後在苦艾酒杯斟一小杯苦艾酒。 在酒杯上放置苦艾酒匙,匙上放着一粒方糖, 再把酒杯置於苦艾酒泉的滴管下,讓冰水慢慢 滴經方糖而下,最後一杯經冰水稀釋而帶甜的 苦艾酒便成,其味道就如一杯充滿香草香氣的 雞尾酒。 想跟綠仙子約會嗎?位於金鐘太古廣場的酒吧 The Continental將為客人提供12到15個不同 品牌的苦艾酒,同時也設計了6款含苦艾酒的 雞尾酒特調,讓你可嚐盡這種酒的美。不過, 當心綠仙子的魔法和魅力,她們最擅長令人在 不知不覺間着迷,更會使你迷得醉醺醺!

高、畢加索、海明威等人也名列其中。苦艾酒風靡一時,甚至 當時的「歡樂時光」也易名為「綠色時光」,可見它受盡世人 的萬千愛戴。 然而好景不常,當時有謠言指苦艾酒會令飲者神智不清、思緒 紊亂,繼而做出邪惡可怕的事,例如謀殺等罪案,令歐洲各國 政府於1900年初下令禁止飲用及生產苦艾酒,直至來到2000 年才徹底取消禁令,只因證實苦艾酒與一般烈酒無異,非為「 邪惡之物」,於是被人們遺忘長達一百年的綠仙子才得以解 禁。 顧名思義,苦艾酒的別名為綠仙子,可見是因為酒呈綠色, 但同時也有透明無色的苦艾酒,令我好奇是否還有其他顏色 存在。Sven向我解釋,以前約90%的苦艾酒為綠色,其餘的 10%則為透明。不過在禁令之後,生產及飲用苦艾酒均屬違 法,不少人愛好者卻不惜鋌而走險釀造苦艾酒,因此他們多生 產透明的苦艾酒,方便把其偽裝成其他酒精,逃過法網。他 winetimeshk.com 19


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“Join us for Tasting” Panel: Vegetarian vs. Lebanese 飲食擂台:素食 對 黎巴嫩

Let’s rock wine tasting in a way other than with the “professionals”. Here we present to you our “keep it real” tasting panel, where we invite our readers to join us to taste wines and give real honest feedback. Each month, we will take wines from a particular country or area and take you out for dinner with your friends and all you have to do is tell us and our readers what you think of the wines and simply enjoy a delightful dinner! This issue, we head out to Tsim Sha Tsui and to Lebanese vegetarian restauant Wild Thyme for a taste and pairing of some wines of Lebanon and tasty Lebanese food. Many cultures wines are made to be drunk with the local food and Lebanon is no different so follow our excursion through the wonderful and exciting world of Lebanese food and wine to see which ones our readers liked best this month. Text & Photography by Ali Nicol

有別於一貫刻板的專業酒評,WTHK每期的飲 食擂台將邀請讀者與我們一同嚐盡美酒佳餚, 讓他們寫下最真實的感受及酒評,並親身告訴 所有讀者。我們每月會挑選一個國家或地區的 葡萄酒,宴請讀者和朋友們邊享用晚餐邊品嚐 美酒,並即席寫下和分享對酒品的想法。 今期的《飲食擂台》我們邀請讀者到位於尖沙 咀的黎巴嫩素菜餐廳Wild Thyme,配以釀自 黎巴嫩的葡萄酒,邊享佳餚邊嚐美酒。許多非 主流的葡萄酒是為了配以當地美食而釀造,黎 巴嫩的葡萄酒也是這樣。現在,就讓我們的讀 者嚐享用這豐盛的一餐,挑選出本月他們最喜 愛的美酒吧! 譯文:Christie Chan 攝影:Ali Nicol ALL WINES SUPPLIED BY Red Mill Ltd 葡萄酒由Red Mill Ltd提供 www.redmillhk.com

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♛TOP 1 Chateau Ksara

Reserve de Couvent 2010 Apperance: Brownish red with a deep rich colour Aromas: Rich, woody aroma with a robust nose on first impressions Palate: Sturdy on the palate with notes of woodland and a nice smooth finish Why do I like it? Drinking the wine feels like sitting on a red velvet sofa with smooth jazz playing in the background. Best food pairing: Falafel

Sharon Siu About her:

gets seriSotuudent; on the thirds Asian flush sip of wine 關於她:學 生;

酒色:啡紅色而帶點深紅 香氣:濃郁木香,嗅到酒時 的第一感覺認為較烈 味道:口感較強烈,帶有木 味,餘韻順滑 為何喜歡?喝這酒時就像 坐在毛絨沙發上,背景還 播放着爵士音樂似的 最佳食物配搭: 炸鷹嘴豆餅

與不少亞洲 人一樣,喝 喝到第三口 酒 便會臉紅

♛TOP 2

Chateau Ksara 1986 (magnum) Apperance: Brown, with shades of orange Aromas: In the language of aroma, the top note is ripe berries, the heart is of robust spiciness and the basis underlying notes are of leather Palate: Rich, complex and fruity with undertones of leather topped off with a hint of spice Why do I like it? It has amazing complexity with superb layers of aroma and taste. Best food pairing: Halloumi cheese

酒色:啡色而帶有橙色色調 香氣:先是熟莓果果香,中心主要為香辛 料香味,而基底層則帶點皮革氣味 味道:口感豐富具層次,果味亦濃,具皮革 氣味之餘,還帶點辛 為何喜歡?它的香氣及味道層次均豐富得 令人讚嘆 最佳食物配搭:哈羅米芝士

♛TOP 1

Ixsir Altitudes White 2013 Apperance: White Gold Aromas: Lychee with a slight hint of fresh raspberries Palate: Floral and light. Very delicate with a hint of sweetness Why do I like it? Very easy drinking; fantastic for the summer months. Would pair with anything from Sandwiches to dim sum and brings out the best qualities in both the food and wine; especially the starch, sweetness and acidity. Best food pairing: Spicy Hummus, Hummus; Baba Ghanoush and Pita Bread

♛TOP 2 Chateau Ksara

1986 (magnum)

Apperance: Brick, brown Aromas: Leather and plum with hints of smokiness Palate: Earthy, with hints of spice and orange peel Why do I like it? Probably impossible to get at retail, but would be fantastic with any red meat and/or cheesy pasta. Best food pairing: Halloumi cheese

酒色:白金色 香氣:荔枝果香,還帶點新鮮紅莓 味道:淡淡花味,而且 帶點可口的甜 為何喜歡?非常容易入喉;很適 合夏日飲用。這酒很容易配上 食物,由三文治到點心也可, 兩者的發揮也會不俗,特別與 酒色:磚紅啡色 澱粉質、甜味及酸度配合 香氣:皮革氣味及梅子果香, 最佳食物配搭:香辣或 也帶點煙燻氣味 不辣的鷹嘴豆豆 味道:礦物味,帶點香辛及橙皮味 蓉、中東茄子 為何喜歡?可能在市面上無法購得此酒, 醬及口袋 但它與任何紅肉及芝士麵食將會十分配合 餅 最佳食物配搭:哈羅米芝士

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♛TOP 2

Chateau Ksara Red 2009 Apperance: Red, like wine! Aromas: Distinct liquorice on the nose makes it very appealing Palate: Very easy and approachable, a wine to let the night roll on with! Why do I like it? It’s good with food, it’s good without food; either way, it’s good! Best food pairing: Any meat dish (of which there are none!) or Halloumi cheese 酒色:紅色,像紅酒一樣! 香氣:明顯的甘草香氣,十分吸引人 味道:非常容易入喉,是枝可以 令各人在晚上盡慶的好酒 為何喜歡?配上食物時是枝好酒;不配食 物時也是枝好酒;總之就是枝紅酒! 最佳食物配搭:任何肉類(而這晚的餐桌 上並無任何肉類),或是哈羅米芝士

♛TOP 1 Chateau Ksara

Reserve de Couvent 2010 Apperance: Looks like a red wine! Aromas: Intense fresh berries with a hint of woodiness Palate: Well balanced with good structure on the palate and the finish Why do I like it? It’s like a visit from an old friend; like a comforting motherly hug. Best food pairing: Falafel 酒色:看似紅酒! 香氣:濃郁的鮮莓果香,也帶點木香 味道:各方面也做到口感平衡,味道及餘 韻結構很好 為何喜歡?喝它時就像老朋友探望自己一 樣;像一個親切的擁抱。 最佳食物配搭:炸鷹嘴豆餅

LeeAboutMason him:

Lecturer; Oenophile and bon vivant. Can’t stand people who say they can’t stand people who have their heads up their own asses about wine

關於他:大學講師;歡樂滿點的愛酒之人。 忍受不了那些說忍受不了對品酒 抱着自以為是的態度的人

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♛TOP 1

Chateau Ksara Sunset Rosé 2013 Apperance: Attractive onion skin colouring Aromas: Floral, candy, mild and subtle aromas Palate: Hints of lime, fresh strawberries and other red berries Why do I like it? It’s refreshing and not a typical Rosé. It has a smoky note to it and is best enjoyed on the beach during summer. Best food pairing: On its own or with any kind of salad

Angus Lee & Lam duie Melo Abo t them:

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酒色:吸引的洋蔥皮顏色 香氣:花香、糖果、中性溫和的氣味 味道:有點青檸果味,也有新鮮士多 啤梨和其他紅色莓果類 為何喜歡?這酒的比一般的玫瑰紅酒 口感更清新,當中帶有一點煙燻,最 適合在夏日的沙灘上享用 最佳食物配搭:可以在不配搭食物下 飲用,或者任何種類的沙律

♛TOP 2

Chateau Kefraya Blanc 2012 Apperance: Golden hues in the glass Aromas: Slight notes of oxidation but more pronounced floral notes with hints of corn and applewood Palate: Slightly oaky with subtle hints of cheese which moves into a slightly oxidised palate as it opens up Why do I like it? The wine has very special, different and interesting characteristics for a Chardonnay. Best food pairing: Halloumi cheese 酒色:杯中呈現金色色調 香氣:有點氧化的氣味,但當中的 花香更為濃烈,也帶有粟米及蘋果 木的香氣 味道:帶點橡木氣味,還有點微 微的芝士味,及後轉化為輕度氧 化的氣味 為何喜歡?這酒十分特別,具多 種不同有趣的特性 最佳食物配搭:哈羅米 芝士

關於他們: 評人 om的酒 in openw es.c 訊網站) 的頂尖酒品資 主 為 文 中 (以

♛TOP 1

Chateau Ksara 1986 (magnum) Apperance: Dark, brick red Aromas: Gorgeous nose, very aromatic and still fresh Palate: Mild grip of tannins especially from the bottle rather than the decanter, spicy and peppery on the palate Why do I like it? It has the complexity of an old wine but still aromatic and fresh. Best food pairing: None! Don’t need one! 酒色:深色,磚紅色 香氣:濃郁香氣,但感覺仍然新鮮 味道:中度單寧,尤其酒在瓶裏的時 候,比較帶香辛及黑椒味 為何喜歡?這酒具有陳酒的複雜性,但 其香氣及味道仍然保持新鮮。 最佳食物配搭:沒有!不需要配搭食 物來喝!

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♛TOP 2 Chateau Ksara

Reserve de Couvant 2010 Apperance: Deep ruby red Aromas: Hints of blackberries and bramble, very approachable with a touch on chocolate on the nose Palate: Pleasant, soft tannins, quite round on the mid-palate but the finish could do with being a little bit longer Why do I like it? --Best food pairing: Falafel 酒色:深寶石紅 香氣:黑莓果及樹莓果香,亦帶點巧克力氣味 味道:可口,單寧溫和,各方面也平衡,但餘 韻收結時可更持久 為何喜歡?--最佳食物配搭:炸鷹嘴豆餅

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♛TOP 2 Ixsir Altitudes White 2013 Apperance: Nice golden colour, definitely a white wine! Aromas: Like a Greek Siren; alluring and ready to drag me down to my erotic olfactory demise (yeah, there’s some great white stone fruit and a touch of honey in there too!) Palate: Divine! Like your first kiss behind the bike sheds at school, one that you will never forget and always cherish (although this wine tastes a lot better than Emily Colbeck!) Why do I like it? It’s just a superb wine! If there is a “Best White of Lebanon” award then this is it for me. World-class undoubtedly…. don’t believe me? Then go and try it yourself! Best food pairing: Spicy hummus 酒色:甜美金色,一看便知道是白酒! 香氣:像是海妖一樣;具致命的吸引 力,使人不能自拔!(也就是甜美的白 核果果香及帶點蜜糖香氣) 味道:太美妙了!就像初吻一樣那麼 美好,你永遠也忘不了那種甜絲絲的 滋味,並且不斷回味(但這酒比Emily Colbeck甜美多了!) 為何喜歡?它是百分百的美酒!這酒 必然是我心中最佳的黎巴嫩白酒,水 準達到世界級!不信你話你也試試 看吧! 最佳食物配搭:香辣鷹嘴 豆豆蓉

♛TOP 1 Chateau Ksara

Sunset Rosé 2013

Apperance: Salmon pink, alluring and sexy in the glass Aromas: Pronounced strawberry with delicate and subtle aromas of other red fruits Palate: Dry Rosé unlike many other overly sweet ones on the market; definitely a summer wine with a juicy mouth feel, very (almost too) easy drinking! Why do I like it? Makes me think of beaches and ladies in g-strings! The kind of wine I want on a yacht in Monaco or St. Tropez with buxom ladies in white bikinis! Best food pairing: Crisp summer salads, cold appetisers or just on it’s own

ALI NICOL

酒色:三文魚粉橙色;顏色性感吸引 香氣:強烈士多啤梨果香,也帶有淡淡宜人 的紅果香氣 About him: 味道:口感較乾澀,不像市面上一般過甜的 der; Hong Kong Foun Rosé;絕對是夏日酒品之選,口味充滿水果而 Wine Timesfound propping a bar generally ewhere miles away 非常(幾乎太過)容易入喉! up som not on in order la 為何喜歡?令我聯想起沙灘,以及穿着 te from civilisati pa s hi ng sti te 丁字褲比堅尼的性感女郎!最適合開遊艇出海到 to be beenhe be! t n’ ld ou sh in places 摩洛哥或聖托貝,與身材火辣、穿着 關於他: 白色比堅尼的女士共喝! 酒吧, 常在找尋隱蔽的 通 ; 最佳食物配搭:清新的夏日沙 WTHK創辦人 方喝酒 律、冷頭盤,或是獨 在不該喝酒的地 喝也可

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Highlights: The Third Macau Wine and Dine Festival 活動回顧:第三屆澳門葡萄酒美食節

Text & Photography by Ali Nicol 譯文:Christie Chan 攝影:Ali Nicol

T

he third annual Macau Wine and Dine Festival took place in early March and was a resounding success with hundreds of wine lovers and gourmands attending from Macau, China and Hong Kong to taste the plethora of top quality wines and fine foods that were on offer during the five-day event. Approximately 40 booths showcased the best of Macau’s culinary and wine scene in the open air events hosted at the Venetian Hotel located by the Lagoon. The event was co-hosted by The Wine Society of Macau and the Macau Sommelier Association and the opening ceremony saw Mr. Filipe Cunha Santos (President of the Wine Society of Macau) and Mr. Ciaran Carruthers (Senior VP and Director of the Venetian & Plaza Operations, Sands China Limited) officially declare the event open by toasting with gathered media, wine lovers and local food and beverage managers. There were plenty of interactive events taking place during the festival, none more so attended than 26 winetimeshk.com

the Wine School which held classes for both the public and professionals hosted by some of Macau’s most important sommeliers and wine business people. Highlights included talks by Roberto Gallotto, Hedi Lao and Luis Heredia and included subjects from simple wine opening skills to informative classes on Port wine and thought provoking conversations on Japanese Sake. There were some excellent food stands and first mention must go to Macau’s premier Spanish authentic Spanish Gastro Bar, BarCelona. Food was served throughout the Festival and we heard many people raving about the quality of the food from this new Macau destination. Also there was the Macau Slow Food Association showcasing its unique food, Indian Spice that was serving some quality Indian food, “Fish Me” – Macau’s premier fish and chips location, some lovely Mediterranean food from “My Chef” Andre Sa Correia who hails from Madeira and some “Taiwan Typical Food”.

年一度的澳門葡萄酒美食節於上月初圓 一 滿落幕,約有40名參展商參與是次第三 屆的品酒節,於澳門威尼斯人酒店展出澳門的 美食佳釀,一如以往地吸引了眾多來自港澳內 地的饕客飲者,一連五天到場享受林林總總的 佳餚美酒。

是次活動的由澳門洋酒協會及澳門品酒師協會 合作舉辦,而澳門洋酒協會主席Filipe Cunha Santos,以及金沙中國威尼斯人酒店及商場 營運高級副總裁及董事Ciaran Carruthers,同 場現身開幕典禮,與各大傳媒、愛酒者以及美 食供應商祝酒宣佈活動正式揭幕。 品酒節期間有多個活動讓參與者與參展商互 動,包括由澳門具份量的侍酒師或酒界專家主 講「品酒學堂」,使行內行外人士也獲益良 多。焦點人物Roberto Gallotto、Hedi Lao及 Luis Heredia主持講座,主題從簡單如打開酒 瓶、砵酒的種種資訊,以至日本清酒的討論均 包含在內。 會場上有着不得不提的美食參展商,那就是 澳門正宗高級西班牙菜BarCelona,各食客對 其西班牙美食讚不絕口,更指其是澳門最炙 手可熱的「飲食蒲點」之一。除了澳門慢食文 化協會(Macau Slow Food Association)展示 出其獨特美食外,印度香料美食(澳門)(Indian Spice Macau)也為各位提供高質素的印度 菜,而脆魚點(Fish Me)超水準的炸魚薯條、 由Andre Sa Correia主理的My Chef所煮的地


Of course, we were there for some great food but our main purpose was to check out the wines and wine companies that are available in Macau – and there were some real quality wines on show. Unlike Wine and Dine Hong Kong, we found a much higher quality of wine at Macau Wine and Dine Festival as no one was attempting to off load ‘binend’ wines and there is a more congenial atmosphere amongst the suppliers who are not trying to out sell each other by being the cheapest as they do in Hong Kong, quite the opposite in fact; many were actually happy to help recommend wines from other companies. Highlights were the wines from Claret Wines, Fine Beverages Limited, Pudao Wines and ASC Fine Wines; all located on one strip together making it a tough area to move on from. We had some excellent whites, rosés and reds from all the aforementioned suppliers

(there was a distinct lack of sparkling wines to be honest) and we also had some great wines from Macau Fine Wine Company. Nearer the stage, where live music was being pumped out all throughout the festival, we tasted some hypnotic vodka’s from Mongolia with Prem1er Spirits, some captivating Prosecco from Amorosso Fine Wines and some lovely biodynamic wines from Cottage Vineyards. In all, Macau Wine and Dine Festival was a great success (other than the weather – but we can’t have it all our own way!) and was well attended with quality wines and food. Hong Kong could learn a little from the great work done by the Macau Government, The Wine Society of Macau, The Macau Sommelier Association and the Venetian Macao – there’s no doubt we will be back for a bigger and better Macau Wine and Dine Festival 2016 this time next year! Cheers!

中海美食,以及地道台灣小吃也令眾人食指大 動。 雖然美食當前,但這次的主角還是葡萄酒,我 們當然要為讀者介紹澳門有售的葡萄酒以及 其供應商!會場上展示着不少好貨色,數量甚 至比香港美酒佳餚巡禮(Wine and Dine)還要 多,許多澳門參展商並沒試圖推銷品質差劣的 葡萄酒,也沒有像香港參展商「頂爛市」,反 之更樂意互相幫忙,推廣各參展商的美酒,整 個氣氛和諧融洽。 焦點參展商為醴然莊(Claret Wines)、優質飲 品有限公司(Fine Beverages Limited)、葡道 (Pudao Wines)以及ASC精品酒業 (ASC Fine Wines),以上參展商均聚落於同一位置,多 不勝數的美酒可真令愛酒者「寸步難移」。當 中紅白酒、玫瑰紅酒佳釀數之不盡,不過氣 泡酒則有所匱乏。除了上述參展商,Macau Fine Wine Company也供應不少好酒,而靠 近舞台的一邊,我們從Prem1er Spirits的攤 位嚐到了產自蒙古的伏特加,也從Amorosso Fine Wines嚐到了不錯的Prosecco,以及 在Cottage Vineyards嚐到生化多元的葡萄酒 (biodynamic wines)。 總括而言,澳門葡萄酒美食節的舉辦非常成功 (雖然天氣不似預期…但我們總不能甚麼都擁 有吧!),而參與者都樂於享受美酒佳餚。香 港大概也能從澳門政府、澳門洋酒協會、澳門 品酒師協會以及澳門威尼斯人酒店中取經,從 而舉辦一個更好的美酒佳餚巡禮。我們在此期 待着下年度再次來到澳門,參與比這年更好的 澳門葡萄酒美食節!乾杯! winetimeshk.com 27


April's Wine Events

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Easter Sunday Holiday Ching Ming Holiday

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Ching Ming Holiday Wines around the World at Lily and Bloom with Cellarmaster Wines

The Day Following Easter Monday (Holiday)

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Wines around the World at Lily and Bloom with Cellarmaster Wines

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April Fool’s Day

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Spanish Wine Tasting with East Meets West Wines

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Chateau de la Font du Loup (Rhone) Winemaker Dinner with Sarment

Berry Bros. & Rudd Clos de Tart Wine Dinner with Sylvain Pitiot and Jacques Devauges

Wines around the World at Lily and Bloom with Cellarmaster Wines

Premium White Burgundy Tasting at Ginsberg + Chan Tasting Room

Wines around the World at Lily and Bloom with Cellarmaster Wines

Allen Meadows Burgundy Masterclass at Island Shangri-La with Kerry Wines

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White Burgundy “Best of the Best” Wine Lunch at Duddell’s

Allen Meadows Burgundy Wine Dinner at Island Shangri-La with Kerry Wines

Wines around the World at Lily and Bloom with Cellarmaster Wines

Domaine Bechtold Alsace Dinner at Amuse Bouche with Cottage Vineyards

Wines around the World at Lily and Bloom with Cellarmaster Wines

Colterenzio Italian Wine Dinner with East Meets West

26 27 28 29 Wines around the World at Lily and Bloom with Cellarmaster Wines

Wines around the World at Lily and Bloom with Cellarmaster Wines


2 “A Taste of The Cape” South African Wine Dinner at Le Meriden Cyberport

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Opus One Wine Dinner at Gaddi’s with Kerry Wines Fidora Italian Wine Dinner with Italy Small Vineyards at The Regal Hotel

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Good Friday Holiday

South African Chef Week at Riva, Park Lane Hotel (until April 16th)

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Holy Saturday Holiday

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Fidora Meet The Winemaker Dinner at Italy Small Vineyards

The Ultimate Richebourg Dinner with The Fine Wine Experience at Amuse Bouche

Discover South Africa Wine Tasting Festival at The Park Lane Hotel

Chambolle Musigny Masterclass with Allen Meadows at Island Shangri-La

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Jonata Wine Dinner at Lawry’s Prime Rib with One Red Dot Fine Wines Maset Wines Dinner at Solera, Discovery Bay

Ischia Wine Dinner at Italy Small Vineyards

Gevrey-Chambertin Masterclass with Allen Meadows at Island Shangri-La Allen Meadows Gala Dinner with The Fine Wine Experience at Island Shangri-La Jazz and Wine Provence Dinner at The Repulse Bay Hotel with Kerry Wines

Blind Wine Tasting Challenge at Perbacco, Hollywood Road with ISV

Baron de Ley Spanish Wine Dinner at Café Deco on the Peak with Jebsen Fine Wines

“My Favourite Things” Wine Lunch at Epure with Cottage Vineyards

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Penfolds Wine Dinner at Shang Palace, Kowloon Shangri-La with Jebsen Fine Wines

Anything But Chardonnay & Cabernet Tasting at Corney & Barrow Tasting Room

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Nuits St. Georges Wine Tasting at Ginsberg + Chan Tasting Room

Lazio Italian Wine Dinner with Italy Small Vineyards

Blind Tasting Challenge “Indigenous Grapes” with ISV at Perbacco Mature Spanish Wine Tasting at Ginsberg + Chan Tasting Room

For the full information on all the above events visit our website www.winetimeshk.com/events 各品酒活動詳情可瀏覽WTHK網站 www.winetimeshk.com/events winetimeshk.com 29


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TOP 10

Sweet Wines

十大甜酒 Ca’ Rugate L’Eremita Recioto della Valpolicella (Italy)

Chateau Latrezotte Sauternes de Ma Fille 2011 (France)

Denomination: Recioto della Valpolicella Grape Varieties: Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone

Denomination: AOC Barsac, France Grape Varieties: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Muscadelle

Tasting Notes: A low production wine of only around 7,000 bottles per year this sweet red wine is something different for the discerning sweet wine lover. Intense ruby red in colour (much like the colour of Port wine), there are plenty of black fruit and berry aromas that lead into a sweet palate that boasts hints of herbs, spices and dried black fruit. The finish is long and persistent from a palate that shows a good acidic backbone and some very noticeable tannins. This style of wine would work nicely with cheeses or dried fruits after dinner and may too well work with a good piece of chocolate. A complex wine for a palate that can appreciate a tannic sweet wine. (Available from Vignette du Vin)

Tasting Notes: Made in the traditional style where botrytis (noble rot) has affected the grapes and dehydrated them to give the sweet concentrated juice that makes up the wines from this area of France. There is a sensual golden colour in the glass with is followed on by a very expressive nose showing a great aromatic intensity of peach and pineapple. It is generous and unctuous in the mouth with citrus fruit flavours, honey and acacia notes. Good acidity leaves an excellent freshness on the finish and notes of tropical fruits. Not a super long finish but a pleasing one that leaves the palate wanting more! (Available from Cellarmaster Wines)

派系:Recioto di Valpolicella 葡萄品種:Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone 品酒評鑑: 這款甜紅酒的產量不多,其位於意大利的酒莊每年只生 產約7,000枝。酒的顏色為深深的寶石紅(像砵酒一樣), 充滿着黑果及莓果果香,味道凸顯出香草、香料和乾黑 果混和而成的甜。餘韻長而持久,反映酒的酸性良好, 也具適度單寧。這酒適合於飯後與芝士或乾果一起享 用,也許亦可與巧克力配搭起來。這是款層次豐富的甜 酒,若你欣賞帶單寧的甜酒,它便是你的選擇。 (品•文化酒窖(Vignette du Vin)有售)

派系:AOC Barsac, France 葡萄品種:Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Muscadelle 品酒評鑑: 這款Sauternes以這個法國產區的傳統釀法釀造,讓葡 萄受葡萄孢(botrytis)感染,令葡萄水分被抽乾,從而使 葡萄中的果糖濃縮,用以釀造甜酒。杯中引人入勝的金 黃色,帶着溢瀉的香桃和菠蘿果香,可謂眼睛和鼻子的 享受。味道帶有柑橘類水果、蜜糖及相思樹,口感細膩 無比,而它的酸性使餘韻具清新感,熱帶果味也稍稍停 留在口腔之中。雖然餘韻不算長,但足以令你想多喝一 點! (Cellarmaster Winesk有售) winetimeshk.com 31


Top 10 Sweet Wines Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2009 (South Africa) Denomination: Constantia, Western Cape Grape Varieties: Muscat de Frontignan Tasting Notes: South Africa’s best sweet wine and arguably one of the top sweet wines to be produced in the world, the history of Vin de Constance goes back centuries and has been drunk by some of the most powerful people in history. Made from a grape that had to be resurrected in recent times the Vin de Constance from Klein Constantia is a heavenly, ethereal wine that’s alluringly sweet and seductive. Golden orange in colour, the wine has aromas of honeycomb but the palate gives enough acidity to make this wine extremely pleasurable and leave some orange marmalade flavours on a long sweet finish finely balanced with a delicate acidity. A superb and richly aromatic wine that should be in every wine lover’s cellar. (Available from ASC Fine Wines)

派系:Constantia, Western Cape 葡萄品種:Muscat de Frontignan 品酒評鑑: 這是南非出產中的最佳甜酒,也可能列入世界上最頂尖 的甜酒之一。這酒的歷史可追溯至幾個世紀以前,它 也曾被具份量的大人物飲用。Klein Constantia酒莊以 Muscat de Frontignan葡萄釀造出「只應天上有」的 美酒,其甜味極具誘人的吸引力。酒色呈金橙色,具蜂 巢及蜂蜜的香甜味,但卻有足夠的酸度令這甜酒可口宜 人,同時也帶有橘子醬的味道,酸甜交織令餘韻持久。 這款香氣濃郁而優秀的甜酒,值得佔上���位愛酒者酒窖 中的一個位置。 (ASC Fine Wines有售)

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Dow’s Nirvana Reserve Port (Portugal) Denomination: Douro Valley, Portugal Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz Tasting Note: Dow’s Nirvana Reserve Port is actually a special Port wine that was designed to compliment chocolate – to be more precise, dark chocolate. The wine is deep red in colour and has beautiful floral aromas in the glass. As expected from a Port wine it has a slightly higher alcohol percentage than the other wines in this Top 10 but it makes it all the more pleasurable. There are no hot alcohol notes as the wine is finely balanced and shows some great dark fruit and some grippy tannins on the palate that lend well to eating chocolate. There are also some hints of roses and violets on the palate making it a little more feminine than the usual bold, full bodied Ports on the market. The dry, long lasting finish leaves you feeling happy and definitely wanting a second glass!

派系:Douro Valley, Portugal 葡萄品種:Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz 品酒評鑑: Dow’s Nirvana Reserve Port是種特別的砵酒,釀以配 搭巧克力一同享用,尤其是黑巧克力。酒色為深紅色, 酒香為宜人的花香味。由於它是砵酒,因此其酒精含量 比十大甜酒中的所有其他甜酒都要高,但同樣地使人愉 悅。因為酒的各方面也平衡得很好,所以不會令你感覺 其酒精成分重,而其味道黑果類的果味,也有陳舊單寧 的氣息,可輕易與巧克力配搭起來。此外,口腔中還帶 點玫瑰及紫羅蘭的花香味,令這砵酒更為女性化,有別 於一般酒體強而厚重的砵酒。乾澀而持久的餘韻令人感 覺開心快活,更想再來一杯呢!


十大甜酒 Quady Essensia Orange Muscat 2013 (USA)

Inniskillin Gold Vidal Ice Wine 2012 (Canada)

Denomination: Madera, California Grape Varieties: Orange Muscat

Denomination: VQA Niagara Peninsula Grape Varieties: Vidal

Tasting Notes: Brilliant orange and gold colours jump out of the bottle at you garnering excitement from any sweet wine lover before the bottle is even open. Not a common grape variety, Quady winery in California specialises in sweet wines and aperitifs and uses the Orange Muscat grape to perfection in this delightfully sweet dessert wine. Orange and apricot aromas are dominant in the glass and become more intense as the wine slowly warms over time. The same flavours can be found on the palate that is rich and unctuous but with good acidity that leaves no cloying feeling on the palate. A fine example of a sweet Californian wine and certainly something different for those looking for something special from the New World. (Available from Wine N Things Hong Kong)

Tasting Notes: Arguably the most famous wine to come from Canada and a pioneer in putting Canadian Ice Wine on the world wide wine map. Frozen Vidal grapes are harvested at -10 degrees Centigrade to make sure the sugars are concentrated enough to create this highly sought after Ice Wine. Aged for 4 months in French oak the wine has a robust body that shows flavours and aromas of orange peel, pineapple, mango and apricot. Not the kind of wine that can be drunk and finished in one sitting, this wine is a wine for appreciating and a wine that can be kept in the fridge for days after opening without spoiling. A fantastic example of Canadian Ice Wine, but one that comes with a fairly hefty piece tag. (Available from ASC Fine Wines)

派系:Madera, California 葡萄品種:Orange Muscat

派系:VQA Niagara Peninsula 葡萄品種:Vidal

品酒評鑑: 未開酒瓶之前,愛甜酒的你便會因瓶中悅目的橙色和金 色而感到興奮。位於美國加州的Quady酒莊專門釀造 各款甜酒及餐前酒,而這款甜品酒以不常見的Orange Muscat葡萄釀造,其甜味極是可人。酒香主要為香橙及 杏子,香氣更隨着酒在室酒下變暖而更加濃郁,其味道 與香氣一貫濃厚豐富,加上恰當的酸度,不會使人感覺 黏膩。這酒是加州出產甜酒中的好例子,如果想尋找一 款特別的新世界葡萄酒,不妨考慮看看它。

品酒評鑑: 這酒可能是加拿大最有名氣的冰酒,同時也把加拿大冰 酒畫在進葡萄酒產國的世界地圖上。結成冰的Vidal葡萄 需在零下10°C下採摘,確保葡萄內的果糖濃縮,才可釀 造出這款備受追捧的冰酒。在法國橡木酒桶發酵四個月 後,這酒的酒體變得較厚身,散發出橙皮、菠蘿、芒果 和杏子的果香及味道。它不是一次過可喝掉的葡萄酒, 而是一枝可供賞析的冰酒,在冰箱內存放數天其品質也 不會變壞。這酒無疑是加拿大冰酒中的極品,只是價錢 牌有點沉重。

(Wine N Things Hong Kong有售)

(ASC Fine Wines有售)

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Top 10 Sweet Wines Isole e Olena Vin Santo 2005 (Italy)

Denomination: Chianti Classico DOC, Tuscany Grape Varieties: Malvasia Bianca, Trebbiano Tasting Notes: This wine is held in the cellars for at least 8 years before being released and is a stunning elixir of a wine. A seductively dark golden colour is welcomed into the glass with subtle aromas of nuts, figs and dried dates – not unlike a sherry in some respects. The viscous wine lends an exceptional acidic backbone making the wine smooth and elegant on the palate. There are notes of apricot, peach and roasted pineapple on the palate and a long finish that leave the palate craving for one more sip. A highly addictive wine but one that should be sipped and savoured considering the time and effort that has gone into this wine. Awarded 94 points by Robert Parkers Wine Advocate and well worth it – a stunning sweet wine. (Available from Amorosso Fine Wines)

Two Hands For Love or Money 2010 (Australia) Denomination: Barossa Valley, South Australia Grape Varieties: Semillon Tasting Notes: “A powerful yet seductive dessert wine of great pleasure”. Semillon is the quintessential grape that goes into making some of the world’s best sweet wines from Sauternes but is well utilised in Australia too and makes this stunning sweet wine from iconic winery Two Hands. The light gold colour gives way to an alluring and attractive set of aromas that include notes of pineapple and banana with some honey and a touch of vanilla (most likely from the 8 months spent in oak). The flavours dance around the palate causing olfactory excitement whilst giving the drinker crème caramel notes that are highly addictive. A superbly long finish with great acidity makes this certainly one of the best Australian sweet wines we have ever tried. (Available from World Of Wines Company Limited)

派系:Chianti Classico DOC, Tuscany 葡萄品種:Malvasia Bianca, Trebbiano

派系:Barossa Valley, South Australia 葡萄品種:Semillon

品酒評鑑: 在這款酒成品之前,先要在意大利一個酒窖內經過八年 時間的發酵,才能出品成葡萄中的「靈藥」。杯中誘人 的深金色,以及微微的果仁、無花果和幹棗的香氣,在 某程度上令人誤會它有點像雪利酒。這酒具一定粘度, 但同時擁有很好的酸度,意想不到地令口感順滑而優 雅。酒的味道混合了杏子、香桃和烤菠蘿,其餘韻長而 令人想再喝一口。它可會讓人上癮,但享用時該小口小 口的嚐,慢慢欣賞釀酒師所下的功夫。Robert Parkers把 這酒評價為94分,而這款甜酒的確也值得這樣的分數。

品酒評鑑: 「具力量而誘人的甜品酒,能使你愉悅自如。」Semillon葡萄是在法國Sauternes典型的葡萄品種,用以釀造 最優質的甜酒,但這種葡萄也能在澳洲好好生長,繼而 由著名的Two Hands酒莊釀造出這款甜酒。在淡金色的 酒之上,揚起非常吸引的菠蘿、香蕉及蜜糖香氣,還帶 點雲呢拿香味(大概是在橡木桶內待了八個月的效果)。香 味與味道的混合勾起鼻子的興奮,而當中的焦糖味更會 令飲者着迷。恰好的酸性配合長長的餘韻,造就了這款 最佳澳洲甜酒之一。

(Amorosso Fine Wines有售)

(World Of Wines Company Limited有售)

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十大甜酒 Chateau de Fargues 2005 (France)

Denomination: Sauternes, France Grape Varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon Tasting Notes: A truly exceptional sweet wine and most certainly one of our favourites from the most famous sweet wine producing region in the world. Chateau de Fargues is owned and managed by the Lur Saluces family who formerly owned Chateau d’Yquem thus the pedigree of sweet winemaking is assured in this wine. A beautiful deep golden colour, this exceptional vintage still has decades of aging ahead of it should you have the patience to wait that long. Superb balance of sweetness and acidity is apparent on the palate which is preceded by aromas of honey and tropical fruits. The palate is round and delectable and although a great drinking wine, this is a sophisticated wine that could well do with a foie gras pairing. A stunning long finish leaves intense flavours on the palate from this wine that hails from an exceptional vintage. (Available from Watson’s Wine)

Rocca di Montegrossi Vin Santo 2004 (Italy) Denomination: Chianti Classico DOC, Tuscany Grape Varieties: Malvasia Bianca di Toscana, Canaiolo Nero Tasting Notes: A very limited production each year of just under 2,000 bottles makes this sweet Vin Santo a highly sought after wine. The deep golden, almost brown colour makes for some stunning colours in the glass and lends aromas of ripe fruit and honey with hints of herbs and spices. A super sweet palate is well balanced by the typical acidity one would expect from an expertly crafted Italian wine. Pineapple dominant on the palate that leaves a long lingering and delicate finish that shows poise and elegance. Certainly one of the best Vin Santo on the Hong Kong market and a wine that has spent considerable time in the winery cellars before being released at an optimum time. (Available from World of Wines Company Limited)

派系:Sauternes, France 葡萄品種:Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon

派系:Chianti Classico DOC, Tuscany 葡萄品種:Malvasia Bianca di Toscana, Canaiolo Nero

品酒評鑑: 這款優秀出眾的甜酒,絕對是我們最喜愛的法國Sauternes甜酒之一。 Chateau de Fargues酒莊由Lur Saluces家族所擁有及主理,亦即Chateau d’Yquem酒 莊的前擁有者,因此這酒定有甜酒譜系的元素在其中。 酒色為奪目的深金色,而酒本身還需陳擺才可達到更佳 狀態,因此需要時間耐心等候。在嚐到酒的甜度與酸度 平衡前,香氣帶着蜜糖和熱帶水果香首先傳到鼻腔內。 這酒美味香甜但其層次複雜,可配合鵝肝一同享用。餘 韻長而濃烈,反映它是個好年份。

品酒評鑑: 這款釀自意大利的甜酒產量極為有限,酒莊每年只生產 約2,000枝,使它備受飲者追捧。深金色深得像啡色一 樣,在杯中極為好看,而其酒香滿有熟果及蜜糖香味, 也帶有點點香草和香料。這款極甜的甜酒由恰到好處的 酸度平衡着,就如意大利酒佳釀的酸度一般。味道主要 為菠蘿甜味,而餘韻久久在口腔內徘徊,顯出酒的沉穩 優雅。這酒在酒莊經過的發酵時間不短,在酒呈現最佳 狀態後才入酒瓶供應市場,定是香港有售其中一款最佳 的Vin Santo。

(屈臣氏酒窖Watson’s Wine Cellars有售)

(World of Wines Company Limited有售)

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A Marriage of Wine, Food and Moutai 位 珠聯壁合:葡萄酒與茅台

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o blessed we were to attend “Winter in Guangzhou”, the first of its kind dinner which featured a harmonious mix of both western wines and auctiongrade aged Kweichow Moutai which was successfully held this past February at the Royal Garden Hotel; an the event that reminded us of the numerous possibilities that are here with us in the world of combining food and beverage. Led by both Ms. Ada Leung (Cottage Vineyards Sales and Marketing Director) and Mr. Ian Wo (Sommelier and Director – Hong Kong and Macau Googut) the event took place in The Royal Garden’s Chinese Restaurant and featured an entire menu of all-time Cantonese favourites such as braised mutton with bamboo shoot and black mushrooms in clay pot, fried glutinous rice with preserved winter sausages, which were all paired with Cottage Vineyards’ wines and Googut’s auction-grade aged Chinese spirits. Mr. Wo noted at the event that, “Traditionally Chinese people have only been drinking Moutai in quick celebratory shots without food. With food, taken together with Moutai it is a simple way to protect

one’s stomach from the spirits’ standard 53% alcohol. However, top quality, aged Moutai which are more subtle and have a silky texture, can actually pair very well with food, helping to bring out the layers of flavour in many dishes which we might have missed in the past.” Said Ada Leung of Cottage Vineyards: “In many dinner events serving wine and where the wine is intentionally paired to the dishes, we tend to see Moutai and other Chinese spirits present. Rather than treating these spirits as the enemy, wine lovers can learn to view these spirits as “helpers” that can actually assist to bring out subtle nuances in a wine and even use these spirits as partners that can work together to bring out the full appreciation of a dish”. The event just goes to prove the versatility of both western wines and Moutai as accompaniments to local Chinese cuisine and we look forward to seeing more of these diverse events in the future. Finally, we’d like to give special thanks to Jameson Chim and Anthony Ho for helping of the organization of the event.

列中國八大名酒之一的貴州茅台,歷史 悠久,地位崇高,而一向相信美食和美 酒之間充滿著無限美味可能的村鄉葡萄園, 在今年二月三日與中國老酒拍賣行歌德盈香 和九龍帝苑酒店,破天荒選了這款以豪邁奔 放見稱的中國老酒,以及西方最高貴優雅的 葡萄酒,為傳統的廣東名菜搭配,於帝苑軒 舉辦了一場名為《四季佳釀薈美饌之冬季下 的廣州》的品酒晚宴,引起飲食界廣泛注目。 是次盛宴牽頭創辦人之一的歌德盈香香港及 澳門地區市場總監胡卓龍表示:「中國人一 向喜歡在喜慶場合中豪氣暢飲茅台。佐酒小 食只是充當保護胃部的角色,以減低高達 53%酒精的衝擊。然而,高質素的陳年老 酒,表現卻含蓄細緻得多,入口柔軟綿綿, 能確確實實地與美食互相輝映,把各方優點 全面展現。」 另一位牽頭人、最擅於為美食尋找美酒拍檔 的村鄉葡萄園營運總監梁雅婷Ada則指出: 「無論是葡萄酒抑或陳年國酒,在市面上的 品酒晚宴都是個別地出場,鮮有兩者同場演 出。事實上,葡萄酒和陳年老酒之間剛柔並 濟,絕對可以使飲食更添樂趣。」 陳年的貴州茅台,入口香、醇、幼滑兼備, 酒到喉頭時即生出一股雄渾勁力,豪邁特性 全面爆發,高濃度酒精迅即轉化成一團烈火 融入血液在全身遊走。Ada憑著她過人的配酒 觸覺,以葡萄酒中的軟膩口感,把被茅台高 濃度酒精極速抽乾水份的喉頭,重新滋潤, 讓食客得以最佳狀態品嚐美酒和美食之間美 妙共鳴。箇中的難忘滋味,即使是親自嚐過 的人,都難以言傳。由於反應熱烈,為了不 讓錯過了的或想再次「安哥」的各位失望, 葡萄酒與中國老酒配搭美食的品酒晚宴會在 不久將來再次舉辦,屆時再與各位見面。在 此,我們特別鳴謝Jameson Chim和Anthony Ho,為各愛酒者協力舉辦這場盛宴。

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Chef Talk: Bryan Nagao of Town

主廚出廳:多國菜餐廳Town的Bryan Nagao

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Text by Ali Nicol Photography by Christie Chan

hef Bryan Nagao is undoubtedly one of Hong Kong’s best chefs and he has been serving fine cuisine to food lovers in Hong Kong for three decades in a career that has seen him work in some of the best hotels and restaurants in some of the most prestigious locations around the world. Chef Bryan is Hawaiian / Japanese and born in Los Angeles, California but moved back to Hawaii to grow up and this is where his career all started. These days he owns and operates the (somewhat) newly opened “Town” in Causeway Bay’s Cubus (1, Hoi Ping Road) which serves an eclectic mix of Italian, Japanese and French style fine cuisine in Chef Bryan’s traditional style, marrying flavours from around the world that he has come across whilst working in regions such as Hawaii, San Francisco, Colorado and here in Hong Kong. Wine Times Hong Kong caught up with the masterful and highly talented chef this month to find out more about the man that opened such prestigious restaurants as the Philippe Stark inspired Felix in The Peninsula Hotel and that has spent his life dedicating himself to finding and preparing the finest ingredients for our dining pleasure. Town is located on the 10th floor of the Cubus building at 1, Hoi Ping Road in Causeway Bay. Opened in September 2014 it has literally become the “Talk of the Town” and has been highly rated by most of the city’s food writers and critics. Serving what is essentially international cuisine created from Chef Nagao’s experiences worldwide; it has taken what may have been regarded as Fusion a decade ago to another level combining ingredients 38 winetimeshk.com

譯文、攝影:Christie Chan

Town

Address: 10/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd, Causeway Bay 地址:銅鑼灣開平道1號Cubus10樓 Tel: 2568 8708

數廚藝了得而在香港紮根的廚師,總廚Bryan Nagao無疑是其中之一。 要 在過去三十年間,他在世界各地不同的高級食府,為食客烹調一流美 食,目前在港經營高級餐廳,讓本地食客享盡口福。總廚Bryan是位「夏日」 混血兒,亦即是半個夏威夷人及半個日本人,雖在美國洛杉磯出生,但於夏威 夷長大,並在那裏開展他的飲食事業。 他的餐廳名為「Town」,位於人流旺的銅鑼灣區,主打混合多國菜的創意料 理,當中包括意大利菜、日本菜及法國菜,同時也將其他菜式的元素注入到個 人風格之中,特別是他曾在夏威夷、三藩市及香港工作過。 WTHK本月有幸訪問曾為享負盛名的半島酒店高級食府Felix開業的Bryan,讓 讀者了解更多有關這位極具天賦的大師級總廚,窮盡精力為食客尋找最優質的 食材,烹調出最令人身心滿足的菜式。 create simple yet meticulous dishes encompassing a range of international flavours and tastes with a traditional French fine dining presentation and style. The restaurant is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner (closed in the afternoons) and reservations can be made by phone on +852 2568 8708 or by email on reservations@ townrestauranthk.com


WTHK: Tell our readers a little more about yourself and how you ended up here in Hong Kong. 請你向讀者介紹一下自己,以及你最終為何在香港落腳 經營餐廳。 BN: I came to Hong Kong in 1996 to re-open Felix at the Peninsula and stayed there for 5 years and had a hell of a time; it was so much fun! It was the best job ever – besides this place (Town) of course! After that I moved over to Star Street to work with Paul Hsu at Elite Concepts but when SARS came around I moved to Colorado for 2 years. Denver was an experience – I would go back now! Steak, potatoes and good snow! I came back to Hong Kong and worked at a couple of places – executive dining at JP Morgan being one of them – and then we opened this place Town. BN:我在1996年來到香港,為的是重開半島酒店的Felix,在那裏待了整整五年—是有趣好玩的五年!那是份 最「正」的工作,但當然在這裏(Town)工作也很「正」 !之後,我轉到優意集團(Elite Concepts)與徐保羅(Paul Hsu)共事,於灣仔星街的廚房工作;在沙士期間,我又 轉到美國科羅拉多州工作了兩年,在丹佛廚房的時光令 我十分回味,我可真想回去!牛扒、薯仔及下雪!輾轉 之間我回到香港,曾在幾個地方待過,當中包括在摩根 大通(JP Morgan)從事行政餐飲工作,之後便開始經營 Town。

WTHK: Long hours, short holidays, high stress – is it all worth it? 工時長、假期短、壓力大,這一切都值得嗎? BN: I enjoy what I do so it’s worth every second of it. Playing with food, pleasing customers; it’s the excitement of it all – every day is different. BN:我享受我的工作,因此工作的每一秒也是值得的。 每天來與不同的食物作伴,招待着不同的客人,因此每 天也帶給我新鮮感。 WTHK: What do you cook for yourself when you are not at work? 工作時間完結後,你最愛煮的是甚麼食物? BN: Spam and eggs! BN:Spam罐頭午餐肉和雞蛋! WTHK: What advice would you give to young people wanting to get into the industry? 對於有意投身飲食業的年輕人,你會給予甚麼建議? BN: Go to culinary school first to learn the basics. Learn how to braise, learn how to butcher, learn how to make pastries. Nowadays everyone’s into sous-vide but you need to know how to braise because you need to know how the beef looks or how the fish looks for example. You know, my first job in the industry was a bus boy at the Holiday Inn at the airport (in Hawaii) – that was hard work! BN:先到廚藝學校學好基本功,學習如何燴菜、切菜斬 肉、烘焙各種點心糕點。今天人人都只會使用真空低溫烹 調,但你需要學會燴菜,這樣才能知道食物被煮熟的模樣 如何,例如是牛肉或魚肉。我在這行的第一份工作,是於 機場的假日酒店內當打雜,真是份吃力辛苦的工作! WTHK: What does wine add to a great meal? 葡萄酒對一頓美味的飯起了甚麼作用?

WTHK: So what inspired you to become a chef? 你如何受到啟發,從而想要成為一名廚師? BN: I didn’t really like school much back then! Living in Hawaii where there were a lot of hotels and a lot of tourism which meant there were a lot of good paying jobs. But I really started to enjoy cooking when I moved to San Francisco; back then there was places like Masa’s and Julian Serrano. I opened the Park Hyatt in San Francisco as I was working for Hyatt. But I only started cooking when I was around 23 years old – it’s the best job; you cook dinner at night but in the early mornings and day times you are at the beach! BN:年輕時,我真的不太喜歡讀書呢!當我居於夏威夷 時,我已注意到當地有許多酒店及蓬勃的旅遊業,表示 有很多高薪的工作機會。但當我移居到三藩市時,我曾 在Masa’s及Julian Serrano等餐廳待過,這時我才真正 愛上下廚。到我在Hyatt工作期間,我開了三藩市的Park Hyatt。憶起我真正開始下廚時,大概是在我廿三歲左 右—這是一份好差事,夜晚埋頭在廚房裏,換來白天可 躺臥在沙灘!

BN: Nothing!! Hahaha! No really for me, when someone brings in a nice bottle of wine and they want me to cook something to go with it, there’s the challenge, that’s what I enjoy. Trying to figure out what you have in the kitchen that can follow the wine. Wine has a lot to do with dining; wine relaxes your customers, it makes them feel happy and it’s a conversation piece. Our wine list at Town is made to go with the food we serve here. BN:沒有!哈哈哈!對我而言,當有人拿來一枝好酒, 讓我煮出與該酒配搭的菜式,這是種自我挑戰,而我也 樂於其中。我先要到廚房找找有甚麼食材可以配合到酒 的味道。葡萄酒對用餐引了很大作用,它可讓客人放鬆 心情,營造愉悅的用餐氣氛,也可使人把話聊開。我們 Town的酒單是為了配搭我們所提供菜式而設計的。 WTHK: What kind of wine do you prefer to drink? 你喜歡喝甚麼葡萄酒? BN: First growths!! Just kidding! If I am going to spend money on wine I guess they’d be Rhone Valley wines, I like them; or some California wines too. BN:一級酒莊的葡萄酒!說笑而已!如果我要購買葡萄 酒,我想我會把錢花在Rhone Valley的葡萄酒上,因為 我喜歡這種風格的酒,又或是一些加州葡萄酒吧。 winetimeshk.com 39


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Macau:

Golden Peacock: A Star of Indian Cuisine

澳門:印度菜之星—皇雀印度餐廳

Text & Photography by Ali Nicol 攝影:Ali Nicol 譯文:Christie Chan

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ne does not often think of heading to Macau for Indian food but this month we found a reason to ditch the rustic surroundings of Chung King Mansions and head over to the former Portuguese colony for a touch of spice. Now, we don’t know of many Indian restaurants located in hotels outside of India but the Golden Peacock in the Venetian Macao is a great reason for jumping on the ferry and heading to Macau – and it’s also a touch of serenity amongst the madness and mayhem of the hotel’s casino floor. Not only is it opulently and resplendently decorated with subtle, romantic colours and lighting with a huge open kitchen featuring a stunning copper fan above it, the restaurant also boasts one Michelin Star – and has held it for the second year running recently. This is certainly unique as there are few Michelin Starred Indian restaurants around the world (the majority are actually in London) and Golden Peacock is self proclaimed as the only Indian restaurant in South East Asia

to hold the accreditation. With a table set up more like the fine dining one expects from a top quality hotel restaurant rather than an Indian restaurant we got to the menu before ordering drinks and found the menu to be surprisingly good value for money. Michelin Stars may be awarded rather randomly in Asia and give many operators that excuse needed to seriously over charge for the food, but those at Golden Peacock have showed restraint and the menu is actually cheaper than the Indian restaurant down the road from my house here in Hong Kong. Needing some quick starters to soak up the days indulgence at the Macau Wine and Dine Festival, we opted for the Zard Seekh Kebab (Tandoori Lamb Kebab with Brown Onion and Fresh Herbs – MOP88), Tangri Kebab (Spring Chicken Drumstick with Yoghurt and Mustard Oil – MOP98), Khaas Potly Samosa (Vegetarian Potato Samosa with Tamarind Chutney – MOP68) and Kandari Murgh Tikka (Chicken Kebab with

Golden Peacock 皇雀印度餐廳

Address: Casino Level1, Shop 1037, The Venetian Macao 地址:澳門威尼斯人娛樂場樓層1樓1037號 Tel. 電話: +853 8118 9696 澳門吃印度菜?聽起來有點不可思議, 到 但我們今期為讀者找到了不到重慶大廈 吃咖哩的理由—澳門皇雀印度餐廳。餐廳設 於澳門威尼斯人酒店內,是印度境外難得一見 位於酒店內的印度餐館,也是喧鬧的酒店賭場 中較為寧靜的一角。

餐廳裝潢華麗輝煌,色調含蓄,暗暗泛黃的燈 光營造出一點浪漫氣氛,加上開放式廚房以及 其上方的銅造吊扇,使餐廳顯得更具格調。而 且,它已連續第二年奪得米芝蓮一星的評級, 這比其他國菜的餐廳來得特別,因為各地城市 裏取得米芝蓮星級的印度餐館為數不多(當中 大多位於倫敦),而皇雀印度餐廳稱其為東南 亞唯一一間取得此美譽的印度菜餐廳。 餐桌上精緻高雅的擺設,展示出酒店裏高級餐 廳的風格,令人很難想像這是一間印度餐館。 在點叫飲料之前,我打開餐牌看了看,驚喜地 想到了這四個字:物有所值。在亞洲地區,米 芝蓮星級評價可能較為「隨意」發放,部分星 級食肆持有人藉由加價,而食客也不惜多付些 去吃這份名氣;不過,這不套用於皇雀印度餐 winetimeshk.com 41


Kashmiri Chili – MOP98) which were all beautifully presented and bursting with an array of flavours and colours. One proviso for attaining a Michelin star (among others) is service, and it must be said that the service at Golden Peacock is impeccable. Fast, efficient and knowledgeable staff are attentive and always happy to help recommend both food and drinks. A fine wine list is a must for such a restaurant (that being it Michelin Starred and in the Venetian Hotel) and there are two lists available to the wine lover who likes a drop of indulgence with their curry. The wines by the glass list includes an excellent array of sparkling (Bastianich Flor Prosecco di Valdobbiadene – MOP68), white (Hugel et Fils Gewurztraminer, Alsace – MOP100) and red (G.D.Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont – MOP90) alongside signature cocktails and beers. Wine is not often consideredwhen having Indian food but with the master list in hand, it’s easy to see why at Golden Peacock is it almost a necessity. The list is adorned with

Fine Wines such as Louis Roederer, Krug and Alfred Gratien Champagnes, a host of Burgundy whites including wines from Jadot and Drouhin plus whites from all over the world including Italy, Spain, Germany and the New World. The red selection is huge with a great range of Portuguese wines alongside fine wines from Spain such as Vega Sicilia and Dominio do Pingus, a wide variety of Bordeaux and Napa Valley fine wines plus wines from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. With all this fine wine available and having tasted a fair amount of wine during the Wine and Dine Festival, we decided to opt for the simpler things in life and drank Kingfisher beers and Mango Lassi whilst tucking into our superbly flavoured main courses. Many think Indian food is overly spicy but in fact it is not. Indian food can be spicy but really it’s all about flavour – and the food at Golden Peacock is full of flavour. We didn’t want something crazy hot such as a Vindaloo as we wanted subtle flavours (and it was just as well as it is not on

廳,它的實際收費還比香港一般的印度餐館更 便宜。 由於在澳門葡萄酒美食節上盡情放縱酒慾,我 們想要填填滿載美酒的胃,點叫了數款準備 時間較短的前菜,包括印式免治羊肉芝士串 (MOP88)、印式果仁燒雞串(MOP98)、馬鈴 薯青豆咖喱角伴酸梅醬(MOP68),以及印香 燒有機雞(MOP98),每款均擺碟精緻,而且 色香味俱全。 要取得米芝蓮的一顆星星,餐廳服務質素很重 要,而我們必需說皇雀印度餐廳的服務的確 無可挑剔—快捷而高效率,侍應生不僅熟悉 餐牌,更樂於在客人點餐時給予意見,並且隨 傳隨到。此外,對於作為一間位於酒店內而 又獲米芝蓮星級的餐廳,優質葡萄酒酒單也 是必需的。這餐廳提供兩張不同酒單,當中 以每杯點叫的酒單上,提供着Bastianich Flor Prosecco di Valdobbiadene氣泡酒(MOP68) 、Hugel et Fils Gewurztraminer, Alsace 白酒(MOP100),以及G.D.Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont紅酒(MOP90),亦設有 各種特色雞尾酒特飲及啤酒。 在吃印度菜時,可能不常配上葡萄酒享用,但 閱過皇雀印度餐廳的酒單,很容易看到其原因 何在:整張酒單滿滿都是優質葡萄酒,其香檳 來自Louis Roederer、Krug及Alfred Gratien 酒莊,勃艮地白酒來自Jadot及Drouhin酒 莊,加上來自世界各地的白酒,包括意大利、 西班牙、德國以及各新世界產國。酒單上紅酒 選擇同樣眾多,當中以葡萄牙紅酒為主,亦有 西班牙Vega Sicilia和Dominio do Pingus酒 莊的選擇,更少不了多款法國波爾多及美國加 州納帕谷的紅酒,新世界紅酒選擇則為澳洲、 紐西蘭以及南非。

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雖然酒單豐富多元,然而我們已在澳門葡萄酒美食節上大喝特 喝過,所以最後決定「輕鬆一下」,點叫了Kingfisher啤酒及 印式芒果奶昔,作為美味可口主菜的飲料配搭。或許很多人認 為印度菜過辣,其實不然,當中的香辣只為帶出整道菜的整體 味���,而餐廳的大廚便做到了這點。我們不想挑戰味蕾的極 限,因此沒有點叫辣度十足的Vindaloo咖喱(雖然不在餐單之 上),選擇了味道稍溫和的素食—印式炒煙羊角豆(MOP78)及 香濃黑蘭度豆蓉(MOP88),兩款均為味道濃郁可口的健康菜 式。 這間餐廳提供不少素菜選擇,對素食者而言簡直是天堂;不過 幸好我們非素食者,才能享受到印式洋蔥燴羊小腿(MOP138) 以及印式焗牛油雞(MOP108)。兩道主菜均令人垂涎欲滴且賣 相討好,加上侍應生殷勤的招待,奪得那顆米芝蓮星星確是實 至名歸。 咖喱是蘸着吃的,因此不能少了印度香米飯及印度烤餅,當它 們端到桌上時,我們可像印度皇帝般享用着豐盛的一餐。開懷 大吃過後,各人都飽得捧腹走不動,但我們腦海中浮現的卻是 干邑白蘭地!既然如此,我們邊小酌一番,邊回味着整頓飯的 美味經歷。這餐的人均消費為MOP400元,但卻同時滿足了吃 與喝,令價格顯得非常合理。 在走進餐廳之前,我們預期將吃到美妙可口的印度菜,最後果 然一如所料,各人臉上都帶着愜意的笑容離開餐廳,也認為這 是很好的用餐經驗,因此我們定會再次光顧,同時也將皇雀印 度餐廳實推介予各位喜歡吃高級印度菜的讀者。它是我們吃過 其中一間最好的印度餐館嗎?應該沒錯了! 皇雀印度餐廳的營業時間為每天早上11時至晚上11時,午市 期間(早上11時至下午3時)供應咖喱自助餐,而晚市時間由晚 上6時起開始。 the menu!) so we went for two vegetarian options – the Dum Bhindi Wala (Young Okra and Tomato Curry – MOP78) and the Dal Sona Mor (Black Lentil Curry – MOP88) which were delightfully flavoured and very healthy. In fact, Golden Peacock has a great selection of vegetarian dishes making it a paradise for those that don’t eat meat. Thankfully, we do; so we ordered further delights such as Kashmiri Rogan Josh (Lamb Shank Curry – MOP138) and the Choosa-Khaas-Makhni (Chicken and Organic Honey Curry – MOP108). All dishes were bursting with flavour and beautifully presented making us feel that, alongside the excellent service, giving the restaurant a Michelin Star is most justified. Sides of Basmati Rice and Naan Bread are a must when consuming curry as they are the tools that convey those delicious sauces to the palate so we grabbed a few orders of those and ate like Indian Kings throughout the memorable experience. Totally stuffed by the end of what was an

excellent meal there was only one thing on our mind – Cognac! So we indulged in a little night cap and sat, content and full, reminiscing over a meal that was spectacularly worth the very reasonable price tag that came along with it. The average per head was just over MOP400 each but we did eat and drink exceptionally well! Coming highly recommended we were in expectation of a fantastic meal when we walked in and, as we walked out we were happily content with all aspects of the overall experience. It’s certainly one restaurant that we will be returning to on future trips to Macau and can highly recommend any lover of fine Indian cuisine to drop in and give it a try next time they are in Macau. One of the best Indian meals we have ever had? Quite possibly! Golden Peacock is open every day from 11am to 11pm, also offers an Indian Curry Lunch Buffet from 11am to 3pm daily – dinner is served from 6pm onwards.

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Whine-on: Ask us whatever you like! 讀者專欄:想問就問!

Have any doubts or questions about wine? Send us an email at md@winetimeshk.com or leave a message on our Facebook page at facebook.com/winetimeshk and we will bust the answer for you! 你有任何關於酒的疑問嗎?請寄電郵到md@winetimeshk.com或在我們的 Facebook 專頁facebook.com/winetimeshk留言,隨便發問!我們樂意為你解開 每個疑難! Q1: Does the level of alcohol in a wine determine how you enjoy the wine itself? – Ronald; Tsing Yi 葡萄酒的酒精含量會對其味道構成影響嗎?—Ronald;青衣

Answer: Great question Ronald because in truth the answer is yes. We at Wine Times really do not think that levels of alcohol are a big deal – just take Port wine for example; high alcohol but superbly good wine – but when the alcohol is obvious it means that the wine is not balanced. A balanced wine is one where the fruit, acidity and alcohol are all in unison and create a delectable wine. When the alcohol is overly present (you can smell and taste it) then the wine is unbalanced and you will not enjoy the wine. So yes, alcohol does make a difference – but mainly only in badly made wines.

答: 問得好,答案是會的。在我們WTHK的立場而言,酒 精含量的多少並非重點。以砵酒為例,其酒精含量 高,但喝起來卻是令人愉悅的好酒。然而,若葡萄酒 中的酒精氣味濃烈或成分佔多,反映出該酒的味道並 不平衡。一枝味道平衡的葡萄酒,其果味、酸度及酒 精濃度均恰到好處,就像演奏和諧的協奏曲般,這才 能稱得上為美酒。你可以從氣味及味道上,分辨出該 葡萄酒是否平衡,相信沒多少人能享受喝不平衡的 酒,就是廣東話中「好劥」的酒(十分嗆喉的意思)。所 以是的,酒精含量會影響葡萄酒的味道,但只限於差 劣地釀造的葡萄酒。

Q2: Are all wines from Chile cheap “house-wine” style wines? – Derek; Sai Ying Pun 是否所有來自智利的葡萄酒,其味道都與餐廳提供的便宜「特選紅酒」無異?—Derek;西營盤

Answer: Hi Derek, good question. I am sure you’re asking because there are so many restaurants serving Chilean wines as their wines by the glass. Actually, Chile actually makes a range of great quality, value for money wines which make them perfect for drinking by the glass. Many of the Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec wines coming from the regions offer great affordability matched with a simple easy drinking character that makes them perfect wines by the glass. There are though some great wines from these countries, some that are compared with the best wines in the world – think Almaviva, Sena, Don Maximiano, Montes – and can have the same price tag as some of the fine wines hailing from Bordeaux. Honestly, Chilean wines by the glass are more likely a better option than some others from the Old World as they are fruit forward and drinker friendly rather than austere, highly acidic and sometimes rather flat. 44 winetimeshk.com

答: 好問題。我知道你問這個問題的原因,是因為許多 餐廳提供以杯計算的葡萄酒均為智利葡萄酒。其實 智利出產許多優質、性價比高的葡萄酒,因此也是 適合餐廳以杯計算地供應予客人。智利的Sauvignon Blanc、Chardonnay、Cabernet Sauvignon以及 Malbec價格超值,風格均屬容易入喉,適合當作餐酒 飲用。該地也出產一些世界上部分最優質的葡萄酒, 例如Almaviva、Sena、Don Maximiano以及Montes,當中也有葡萄酒的價錢與波爾多的大同小異。老 實說,有時候以杯計算地享用餐酒,智利葡萄酒比舊 世界的可能還要好,因為其果味較重且較易飲,反而 有的舊世界葡萄酒酸性高而簡樸。


Q3: Are all bag in the box wines bad? – Tung; Sha Tin 以紙盒盛着的袋裝葡萄酒,全是品質差的嗎?—Tung;沙田

Answer: In Hong Kong? Yes. On the whole? No. For some reason people have a bad impression of wines that were a dominant force just a few decades ago. One reason for this is likely because all the bag in the box wines available in Hong Kong are just low-grade, poorly made wines that beg for nothing other than your money and your soul when you wake up in the morning. Go to Australia and New Zealand for example and you can find some lovely wines in a ‘goon bag’. The problem is perception these days and the fact that many bad wines have been put into bag in the box. It will be very hard to reverse public opinion these days – but all it would take is one big name to put a decent wine in a bag and suddenly you may have a new move towards this style of wine. The best thing about bag in the box wines is that they last for weeks making them great value for money and even better for parties.

答: 在香港而言,是也;在全世界而言,非也。從幾十年 前開始,人們對主流的葡萄酒抱有壞印象,其中一個 原因為香港市面上買得到的盒裝葡萄酒,全都屬於低 質素的,簡直可謂「貼錢買難受」,換轉在澳洲或紐 西蘭,你定可找到「袋裝美酒」。這個問題在於大眾 的偏見,當然也因為許多劣質葡萄酒都以盒裝發售。 現時相信難以扭轉這種普遍偏見,但只要當有名氣的 酒莊生產盒裝葡萄酒,那人們便會開始試着購買盒裝 葡萄酒。以這種包裝的葡萄酒,其最大優點便是葡萄 酒在盒內可以妥善貯存數星期而不會變壞,性價比高 之餘,也很適合在派對上飲用。

Q4: Does the shape of the glass have any effect on the wines’ taste? – Doris; Sham Shui Po 酒杯形狀對酒的味道有影響嗎?—Doris;深水埗

Answer: Yes Doris, on the whole the size and shape of the glass does have an effect on not just the taste of the wine, but the aromas of the wines and how the wines are delivered to the palate thus influencing which parts of the tongue and hence, the taste buds the wines reach first. There are many different glassware manufacturers but none make a more diverse selection than our friends at Riedel. There is a glass for each grape variety made by this company and some work better than others. On the whole, a big red wine needs more air so the larger the glass the better. Pinot Noir needs to breather and is delicate so you will find these glasses are rounder and larger in order to deliver the wine to right part of the palate. We hate Champagne flutes so we recommend white wine glasses for Champagne and with white wine, a standard white wine glass will do. Avoid the small, horrible generic wine glasses you often find in cheap restaurants, they often restrict the flavours of the wine. But to be safe, drink all wines from a Bordeaux white glass, they are the most generic and do the best job for the majority of wines.

答: 整體而言,酒杯的大小及形狀也會對我們享用葡萄酒 有影響,不僅是味道,連香氣的傳遞,以及酒如何進 入到我們的口腔,會先接觸到舌頭的哪一部分,從而 影響着酒接觸不同味蕾的先後次序。雖然玻璃酒杯及 器皿製造商有很多,但少有比Riedel提供更全面及多元 化的酒杯器具選擇。一般來說,酒體較厚重、具力量 的紅酒比較需要「唞氣」,所以酒杯愈大愈好。Pinot Noir紅酒就是如此,喝它時多用上較圓較大的酒杯, 令酒可無誤地進入口腔的特定部分。我們實在不太喜 歡香檳杯,因此我們建議以白酒杯喝香檳;而喝白酒 時,用上一隻標準的白酒杯便可。盡量別使用廉價餐 廳裏差勁的小酒杯,它們通常會影響葡萄酒的味道。 而安全起見,不論你喝上甚麼樣的酒,也可選擇以波 爾多白酒酒杯來喝,它既普遍容易尋得,又可讓大部 分葡萄酒展現其味道。

Q5: Are organic and biodynamic wines better for you? – Chris; Sham Tseng 有機及生化多元的葡萄酒對身體更有益嗎?—Chris;深井

Answer: In a word Chris, no. Organic and biodynamic wines are called as such because of the methods the winemakers use in both the vineyards and in the cellars. It’s style of farming and / or winemaking that takes into account the health of the land around them, the vines within that land and the grapes upon that vine. Honestly, there really are no health issues when it comes to the final product although one could argue that with healthier land, vines and fruit and a more thoughtful winemaking process one would end up with a much better wine made from healthier grapes. Organics and biodynamics (much the same as sustainable farming methods) are all about making sure we leave a healthier land for our future generations and those that laugh at these methods of winemaking should really consider that it’s all about planning for the future rather than living for today. Many organic and biodynamic wines are labelled as such so feel free to make your own choices when it comes to buying the wines.

答: 非也。被稱為有機及生化多元的葡萄酒,其實就是指 釀酒師在葡萄園及酒窖中所使用的種植及釀酒方法, 實際上為一種釀酒的風格。這種方法可使種植葡萄的 土地、葡萄藤以及葡萄果的生長,均處於良好狀態。 老實說,葡萄酒成品並不涉及任何人體健康議題。雖 然有人說以更優質的土地、葡萄藤及葡萄果,以及深 思熟慮的方法釀酒,其葡萄酒成品也會更優質,但其 實有機法及生化多元法,可被視為可持續發展的耕種 及釀酒方法,其出發點是為了未來下一代,為他們保 存優良的土地質素,而非為了現時出產的葡萄酒質 素。不少生產商在酒標上也會註明,該酒是以有機法 及生化多元法所生產,可參考有關資料決定是否購買 該些酒品。

winetimeshk.com 45


“All my life I have sought the simplicity of a single line.” ANTOINE WATTEAU

简洁之美,我的毕生追求

Laurent-Perrier Champagne is exclusively distributed in Greater China area by ASC Fine Wines 罗兰百悦香槟由ASC精品酒业在大中华地区独家经销


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Recruitment in the wine business 人才招聘

Find out more wine job vacancies at www.winejobshongkong.com/ 請瀏覽以上網址查詢更多職位空缺

Sales Executive

Sales Manager

Responsibilities:

Responsibilities:

營業代表 Le Bon International Limited - Explore new account opportunities - Achieve assigned sales and revenue targets - To follow up sales orders and prepare reports - To conduct regular client visiting - Coordinate for the promotional activities such as wine & spirits tasting events and trade exhibitions

Requirements:

- Form 5 or above - Good written & spoken English - Self-motivated and can work under pressure - Minimum of 1 year of sales experience - With WSET certificate/ wine knowledge is an advantage Interested parties please send a cover letter stating your expected salary, resume and a full set of your portfolio at hr@leboninternational.com

Sales Supervisor (Wine & Beverage) 營業主管(葡萄酒及飲料) Sims Trading Company Limited

Responsibilities:

- To achieve sales target and accountable for designated customer account area - To explore new account opportunities so as to extend market coverage - To monitor credit control of accounts to avoid overdue debts

Requirements:

- Secondary graduate - At least 3 years sales experience in handling key catering accounts (Wholesales, Chinese Restaurants, Wine Shops, Corporate etc) - Solid sales experience for alcoholic drink and beverage products - Aggressive, presentable with excellent communication skills - Immediate available is highly preferred Please send your application with resume and expected salary to The HR Manager, Sims Trading Company Limited, 7/F, DCH Building, 20 Kai Cheung Road, Kowloon Bay or email to hrd@sims.com.hk

Account Executive 客戶代表 Summergate

Responsibilities:

- Make regular calls to trade accounts to build relationships with key wine buyers - Organize and present reports and conduct market research - Conduct customer training seminars, attend wine dinners, execute tasting promotions and participate in industry related trade fairs - Implement promotions and create incentives to develop business

Requirements:

- A passion for wine and an eagerness to learn the wine & spirits industry - Self motivated, independent, and possess strong interpersonal skills with the ability to build and maintain relationships - Excellent communication, organizational & presentation skills - Good command of spoken and written English & Cantonese. We offer excellent career prospects to successful candidates. For interested parties, please send your CV to hkhr@summergate.com with your present and expected salary, date of availability and any related credentials. (All personal data will be treated confidentially and used for recruitment purposes only)

48 winetimeshk.com

銷售經理 Altaya Wines Limited - Responsible for day to day sales operation include daily sales performance. - Provide professional customer services and be responsible for sales developing on & off trade channel,including hotels,restaurant, bars and retail shops, etc. - Manage payment collection of all gained accounts efficently. - Sales driven, dynamic and very sociable focus on developing new accounts while maintaining the existing customers. - Develop sales in accordance with sales development plan and the company procedures and policy. - Arrange and coordinate local tasting and marketing events for overseas suppliers when in Hong Kong. - A team player between different department of the company.

Requirements:

- Diploma or above. - WSET Level 2 or above. - At least 2 years in F&B industry with wine experience. - With an outgoing and pleasing personality, good team player. - Good command of spoken and written English and Chinese. - Strong sales, marketing, key account and distributor management skills. - Results-driven and self-motivated person with flexible and dynamic work attitude. - Immediately available is highly preferred. Interested parties please send your resume with expected salary and available date to hr@altayawines.com



Wine Times Hong Kong Issue 6