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March 2015

Issue 5 FREE

TOP 10

Wine s il Cockta 特飲

萄酒 十大葡

Y N N O B n o o S ’ A d I N R O F S I E L N A I C W T S E P HIP


UGO RINALDO

SARMENT & KEE CLUB, SHANGHAI Dressed by Ermenegildo Zegna, in a grey wool and cashmere coat, tonal chequered Trofeo cashmere jacket, grey wool trousers and pink & burgundy striped white cotton shirt, grey wool tie and Fabric No.1 jacquard patterned cashmere scarf.

Having worked in kitchens since he was 14, Ugo has always been interested in gastronomy, but his passion for haute cuisine began with an internship in Carcassone, the south of France. Aside from winning prizes in culinary competitions like Bocuse d’Or and Prosper Montagner, he has worked with names familiar to any food- loving household – Ducasse, Alleno and the like, which took him to Monaco and Paris. It was with Yannick Alleno’s brand that he ventured out of France, to Dubai, and then Beijing. Now based in Shanghai, Ugo now heads up the kitchen in KEE Club’s Shanghai outpost, as well as being executive chef for Sarment. “Shanghai is for me the perfect city to express myself as a chef,” he says, being a perfect “melting pot” of cultures, with both foreign and local influences. In the coming year, he hopes to “continue to please and amaze people with my food!”

the creativity forge


Drink Up, Hong Kong! 香港飲勝!

Ali Nicol Founder of Wine Times Hong Kong

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A local Hong Konger who has been working in the wine business for over 15 years. Obviously loves wine and wants to share all the lovely wines with everyone.

he winter months are almost all behind us and although it’s certainly not summer yet, we know the ‘worst’ is already behind us! And what does the month of March bring with it? Mostly the spring season to be honest where we get a chance to change out diet back from a meat based one to a more seafood based one; we get to start thinking about drinking Rosé again and some lighter whites and, of course, March is the month for the Cathay Pacific HSBC Hong Kong Rugby Sevens! Each year the madness of the Hong Kong Sevens descends on both Causeway Bay and Lan Kwai Fong with an influx of rugby loving fans who like more than just one pint of beer of an evening! It’s the maddest weekend of the year and the weekend during which the alcohol consumption of the city spikes heavily! If you’re going, enjoy (we don’t have a ticket yet!) and if you’re not then there’s always the Sevens village or TV – but check out our report on the upcoming Sevens and you can find there’s much more to it than just rugby. This month Stephy heads out to meet Chef Pan Li to make a rather sophisticated dish from a rather underutilised fish: Monkfish. She also gets to grips with pairing the wines to the dish and, as usual has hosted the regular tasting panel to see what our readers think of wines from the Antipodes (that’s New Zealand and Australia folks!) 2 winetimeshk.com

In a shock move away from wine, this month our Editor Christie heads out and learns how to home brew a beer! She will tell you all about it in her article – but the thing with beer is that it’s all in the taste! We are yet to sample her concoction in the office as yet…but I am sure as soon as it’s ready she will be sharing it with us! Who knows, she may have even found a new calling! Of course, as with each month we interview the people that we think are the leaders in the wine industry and this month we feature none other than three exceptional men in the wine industry. We talk to the pioneering Randall Grahm from the iconic Bonny Doon Vineyards in Southern California, the legendary Yves Cuilleron who makes arguably some of the best whites in the Rhône and Pete Seghesio, from a family who have dedicated over a century to the crafting of fine California Zinfandel. Now that Valentine’s Day and Chinese New Year are out of the way for another year we can get on with thinking about the upcoming summer! But first, Macau Wine and Dine begins on March 4 and we will be there to see what the former Portuguese colony has to offer – and of course we will be reporting on it for you in our next issue. Then we have to survive the weekend of the Sevens so we’ll warn you now – look out; a big weekend of alcoholic debauchery is just around the corner! Cheers – have a great March!

然夏天還未來到,但冬天終於也劃上句 雖 號,最差的也就過去了!三月的來臨將帶 給我們甚麼呢?我們慣常在季節更替時轉換一 下口味,而春天讓人對「啖啖肉」興趣大減, 取而代之的是海鮮;我們也漸漸更想喝到玫瑰 紅酒,以及口感清新的白酒。三月份更少不了 國泰航空滙豐香港國際七人欖球賽! 每年這時候,七人欖球賽總在香港引起一陣風 頭,球迷不只在看台上興奮不已,賽後更在銅 鑼灣、蘭桂坊一帶繼續狂歡,一晚喝上不只一 品脫的啤酒!這是一年中最瘋狂的周末,全城 共喝下的酒精總量之多更是無法想像!如果你 會到場觀賽,定會感受到現場氣氛有多高漲! (我們手上暫時仍未有門劵)如果不會的話,也 可以到七人欖球村或是看電視直播,更可以瀏 覽WTHK網站,查看有關這項盛事的報道。 今期的WTHK雜誌中,Stephy向主廚Pan Li請 教煮一道較為複雜的菜,所使用的食材也極少 被人提及:鮟鱇魚(Monkfish)。一如以往,她 也為這道菜配上美酒。至於每期雜誌也刊載的 《飲食擂台》,她今次與讀者共嚐來自「Antipodes」(澳洲、紐西蘭地區)的美酒。 我們的編輯Christie今期暫擱下葡萄酒,學習 如何自家釀造啤酒,她撰文與讀者分享她的所 見所聞。說到啤酒,最關鍵的便是味道!我們 暫未有機會於辦公室嚐到由她釀造的啤酒,但 我肯定當啤酒釀好後,她一定會與我們分享! 可能她更會找到她的「醉愛」呢! 當然,WTHK每期也會與我們眼中的葡萄酒界 大人物作訪問,今期也不例外,我們訪問了三 位非凡男子—加州南部Bonny Doon酒莊的前 衛釀酒師Randall Grahm、釀造出可能最好的 Rhône白酒的傳奇釀酒師Yves Cuilleron,以 及來自有着過百年釀酒歷史、釀造出California Zinfandel葡萄酒家族的Pete Seghesio。 隨着情人節及農曆新年過去,我們可以開始期 待着夏天的來臨。但在這之前,澳門葡萄酒美 食節將於本月4日正式舉行,我們也將參與其 中,看看有何美酒可跟讀者分享!除此之外, 我們也要跟香港國際七人欖球賽打耐力戰—看 誰先醉到不省人事!現在給讀者們一個預警: 小心,那將會是「劈到七彩」的周末! 為這個精彩的三月乾杯!

(Christie Chan譯)

Contact us via email at md@winetimeshk.com


Contents 目錄

p7 Randall

Grahm

2 Drink Up, Hong Kong! Hello Wine World 4 走進酒世界

香港飲勝!

7 Californian Hippest Wines: Bonny Doon 加州之最: 向Bonny Doon酒莊朝聖

Spring Wines with the King 14 of Condrieu – Yves Cuilleron 春暖花開之酒: 孔德里約之王Yves Cuilleron

17 The Wine Doctor:

Dr.Galli’s Homeland Wines Switzerland 酒博士專欄:尋找他鄉的葡萄酒 - 瑞士

Be your own beer supplier: 18 Homebrewing 動手釀造自家啤酒

21 “Join us for Tasting”

Hong Kong Sevens 2015: 26 Another Weekend of Madness Ahead

Panel: Thai vs. Antipodean 飲食擂台:泰國 對 澳紐

p18 Homebrewing Beer

香港國際七人欖球賽2015: 預備上演瘋狂一周

28 Ciao a tutti! Get to know Italian wines to enjoy with your pizzas 認識產自意大利的葡萄酒

Top 10 Wine Cocktails 31 十大葡萄酒特飲

36 Longines Hong Kong Masters

Talking Zinfandel with 38 Pete Seghesio

與Pete Seghesio大談Zinfandel葡萄

40 Chef Talk with Stephy

Macau: 42 Home Style Portuguese – but whose home?

澳門:家庭風味葡國菜—但誰的家?

浪琴表香港馬術大師賽2015

當Stephy遇上主廚

p21 Tasting Panel

44 Whine-On: Ask us whatever you like!

Recruitment 48 in the wine business

讀者專欄:想問就問!

行業人才招聘

p40 Cooking Monkfish winetimeshk.com 3


H

ow does the Year of Goat go so far for you? I hope everyone is having a good start and at the same time enjoying March’s warmer weather. Being a gal who is so afraid of the cold (I hate winter), the “greeting” of March is really something that I can’t wait for - it also means my favourite time of the year (summer) Stephy Poon is not far away! With less cold days PR Executive 公關 March should be the month for more outdoor activities like picnics, hiking and biking. Think about how many hotpot nights (with a lot of beef and beer) you had over the winter yet how little exercise you had; oh and don’t forget about all those heavy oily Chinese dishes you had over CNY - then you will know this month is the time for you to cleanse your body. To refresh the over-eating body, aside from exercising more, I tend to have more greens and seafood, especially fish. It’s light and fresh to have for spring and matches the warmer and more humid weather. If you want to have a fish-based dish with a rich flavor and a little twist that could surprise your guests, then you should follow me and check out the dish that Chef Pan Li is going to teach you—a traditional French dish of Monkfish and ham. The texture of monkfish is lovely; it’s a bit like lobster; tender but firm. Before Pan was going to show me how to make the dish, I was a bit worried if my readers could re-do it at home, but in fact, it’s much easier than I thought it would be! You should definitely try to make it! Although I’m not a fan of rugby, it’s fun to cheer for the Hong Kong Sevens, have a lot of beer and head to Lan Kwai Fong for drinks with all the big, strong and tall players! But just be careful and don’t get too drunk! 入羊年,不個大家過得怎麼樣?我希望各位在有 踏 個好開始的同時,也享受着三月份和暖的天氣。 身為一個極度怕冷的女生,三月的到來,絕對是一個天

大喜訊—最愛的夏天離我不遠了!少了寒冷的日子, 三月份好應該多做戶外活動,如行山、野餐和踏單車, 讓身體好好伸展。想想在剛過去的冬天吃了多少次火 鍋,但上健身室的次數一隻手可數清,再加上農曆新年 期間的煎炸油膩食物,你就應該知道,這個月是時候開 始為身體進行排毒。 要令身體「重新出發」,除了多做運動外,我會多吃綠 色食物和海鮮,當中最愛魚類。魚類感覺清新輕盈, 很適合春天溫暖潮濕的天氣。如果你想嚐試一道以魚 做主角又不失風味的特別菜式,為你的客人帶來驚喜 的話,那麼你就不能錯過三月「煮」廚Pan Li教大家煮 的美食—鮟鱇魚與36個月西班牙黑毛豬火腿卷配甜椒 汁。說真的,在Pan示範做法之前,我有點擔心這道菜 式對讀者而言會否太難去自行在家中烹煮,不過事實是 步驟做法都比我想像的要簡單得多!絕對值得學習來炫 耀一下! 雖然我並不是欖球的粉絲,不過為香港七人欖球賽的健 兒打打氣,到現場喝着啤酒感受氣氛,再到蘭桂坊跟那 些高大威猛的欖球成員繼續暢飲,又絕對是另一回事! 但切記要小心安全,不要喝至爛醉!

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o celebrate CNY this year, I wrote Fai Chun (practicing calligraphy on a piece of red paper in keeping with CNY traditions) for my family and friends to send them my blessings, hoping all of them receive my love and will be blessed just as what I wrote for each of them. Have you also written Fai Chun or just bought and stuck some on the wall wishing for good things ahead? Working on the March issue of WTHK, I interviewed co-founder of HK Brewcraft Chris Wong about his homebrew store to share with our readers. Though I am not a big fan of beer, I absolutely enjoyed this beer journey with Chris! I tried a beer named “Wah Fa” by local brewer Nine Dragons and it really tastes much more special than the usual ones we are drinking normally. I didn’t get the chance to taste any of the beers that Chris brewed, but maybe I should try to brew my own just because it’s easy and fun! Visiting the place and knowing more about home beer brewing, what comes into my mind is that the whole setting of equipment and the process is just like doing a scientific experiment. So in my opinion readers whose best subject is science-related can give it a try as they are more or less the same. Please make sure you get to read my article to find out if you feel the same and hope you enjoy reading it too! Speaking of March, for me it is a rather boring, suffering month – a 31 day month with no public holidays, meaning each of us of the working class has to work more; while spring is in its infancy and with a higher relative humidity making us all a little more annoyed! But it’s fair enough as we enjoyed the CNY holidays last month, so it’s time for all of us to work hard and harder – so as not to be guilty whilst we look forward to the Easter holidays. Cheers!

了迎接羊年,我特地為家人好友親筆提字寫揮 為 春,雖說不上寫得一手好字,但這代表着我對每 一位的祝福,也希望各人能如我所願,在新一年過得幸 福安康。

今期WTHK雜誌中,我為各位讀者尋訪到新奇有趣之 物—自家釀製啤酒!我到訪位於中環的HK Brewcraft 一探究竟,發現該店提供自家釀製啤酒的課程,更訪 問了其中一位創辦人Chris Wong,與之暢談釀造啤酒 的大小事。我嚐了本地釀酒商九龍啤酒的手工啤酒「 華花」,味道的確比一般啤酒特別得多。Chris向我指 出,手工啤酒可因應個人口味及風格而釀造,例如可加 入本地常用的食材,令自己親自釀製的啤酒別具一格。 了解到釀造啤酒的過程,看到其所使用到的用具及設 備,不禁令我聯想到科學實驗,因此對做實驗有興趣的 讀者,也可以試試釀造自己的啤酒呢!請各位讀者翻到 雜誌內頁,閱讀更多有關詳情,也希望你們認為這篇訪 問不錯看。 三月份可能是最不容易度過的月份, 因本月共有31天,而且並無任何公眾 假期,意味着作為「打工仔」的我們 將要工作更多,再加上春天來臨,潮 濕的天氣更會惹人生厭。不過,我們 上月已歡度農曆新年,也是時候該好 好工作了,這樣我們才能有理由期待 Christie Chan 着四月的復活節,再好好慶祝一番! Editor 編輯


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請立即準備 登上太空船, 與美國加州 Bonny Doon酒莊 創辦人兼釀酒師 Randall Grahm, 一起探索星際間的葡萄 酒,展開光怪陸離的 太空漫遊! 譯文:Christie Chan 攝影:Ali Nicol 圖像:Bonny Doon Vineyard Text & Photography by Ali Nicol Images: Bonny Doon Vineyard

We board the mothership and head off on an interstellar wine adventure with Randall Grahm, owner and winemaker of cult California winery

BONNY Doon winetimeshk.com 7


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andall Grahm of California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard can be easily described by a multitude of adjectives in the dictionary; visionary, insane, radical certainly, but we’d like to think pioneering, avant-garde, legendary and quixotic best sum up the man who has owned and managed the Bonny Doon Vineyard since its inception in 1983. Bonny Doon Vineyard originates from the village of Bonny Doon in the Central Coast of California. Wanting to emulate Burgundy in California, ‘Pinotphile’ Randall Grahm set up the winery in a “foolish attempt to replicate Burgundy” but soon found that the climate was not best suited to the Pinot Noir grape as it was too hot, yet realised quickly that other varietals, namely those from the Rhone worked in a region where a real “sense of place” could be found in the taste of each of his wines. The inaugural vintage of 1984 Le Cigare Volant was released in 1986 and since then Randall has not looked back, creating 8 winetimeshk.com

some of California’s finest, if not quirkiest wines and firmly catapulting himself and his wines to legendary status around the world. The iconic Le Cigare Volant features a UFO on the label flying over the vineyard and this wine, an homage to Châteauneufdu-Pape, is a somewhat ironic take on the 1954 law in Châteauneuf-du-Pape that prohibits flying saucers travelling over the regions vineyards (no, we are not making this up!) “It was trial by error – that’s exactly what it was – and a little intuition about things. Occasionally if I was lucky enough to find something really great I might have had the wit to observe that it was great”, says Randall on how it all got started. While it was quickly observed that blended wines may be the best option from the Central Coast, Randall now focuses most of his time on making from grapes that best suit the region he is in – be them blended or not. His Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wine is called “A Proper Claret” and is

起美國加州Bonny Doon酒莊的釀酒師 提 兼創辦人Randall Grahm,不少人會想 到以下一系列的形容詞:空想、瘋狂、激進。

可是,但我們會形容他為:先鋒、前衛、傳 奇、具阿Q精神—他從1983年創立酒莊起, 就一直持有的態度和作風。 顧名思義,Bonny Doon Vineyard正是起源 於加州中海岸聖塔克魯茲郡(Santa  Cruz)的 Bonny Doon村莊。Randall Grahm鍾情於 Pinot Noir葡萄,他希望將加州變成另一個勃 艮地,在不假思索下便建立了自己的酒莊,嘗 試將種植在勃艮地的葡萄品種「複製」到加 州。不用多久,他卻發現加州的炎熱氣候,並 不適合種植Pinot Noir葡萄,因此轉而種植其 他Rhone的葡萄品種,而他所釀造的每一款葡 萄酒均具加州的特色。 酒莊首個出產年份為1984 Le Cigare Volant, 於1986年正式推出,Randall自那時開始,便 一直致力釀造出加州最好的葡萄酒,又或可說 是最奇特的葡萄酒,使他與他的葡萄酒同樣一 鳴驚人。這枝最具代表性的Le Cigare Volant 的酒標設計怪異,有一隻太空船飛碟(UFO)在 葡萄園上空飛行,原由除了向法國教皇新堡產 區作出致敬外,更具諷刺意味—法國政府於 1954年立例,禁止太空船飛碟於教皇新堡產 區的葡萄園上空飛行。(這絕非無中生有,而 是真有其事!) 「這一切都是『誤打誤撞』得來的成果,正正


a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Tannat, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Petite Syrah, the “Clos de Gilroy” is his Monterey County blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah whilst he also makes a 100% Albariño, also from Monterey County. Blends do feature predominantly in the range of wines of course, with Le Cigare Volant’s homage to Châteauneuf-duPape being a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Carginan. Wanting to make sure his wines arrive to their final destination as they are meant to, Randall does not use cork to close his bottles – everything is in screw cap. “Nobody had put a premium wine in a screw cap before”, he says on reminiscing about his 2002 project with Jancis Robinson ‘The Death of the Cork’. “Researchers in America said to us ‘you know, people don’t really want screw cap closures for wine – they really want cork’. Although technically it is a good decision, at the time people were afraid that the public would not accept it. But one of the amazing things I found out in retrospect was that it really doesn’t matter as people are perfectly happy with screw caps”. Perusing the Bonny Doon website there is much thought on whether wines in general

are, like the French, Vin de Terroir or wines that largely express the winemaker’s stylistic intention, or Vin d’effort. Randall notes that his wines are most certainly Vin d’effort but emphasises that: “My first allegiance is to the wine itself, but the wines that are most important are the vins de terroir – everything else is bullshit. I am tacking in that direction and will get there – or not – but that’s where I want to go looking forward”. This being so we wanted to know what his thoughts were on the majority of California wines making wine in one style for one person – Robert Parker – and if he thought it was something detrimental to the California wine industry. “This is absolutely the case. If you look at Napa Valley wines there all above 14% alcohol – everyone. You can’t drink those wines. It’s an irrational belief system that people won’t buy your wines unless you have this unnatural, dense concentrated wine that is high in alcohol – it’s bizarre”. Emphasising his eccentricity, Randall even has an asteroid named after him! We asked him about that, to which he replied; “It’s really cool – at least it’s not a flaming asteroid! It’s called the Rhône Ranger” – named after a group of eccentric winemakers that

是錯誤地成功,當中也包括了對某些事物的直 覺。如果我夠幸運發現到好東西的話,碰巧我 也需敏銳地觀察到那東西的好。」Randall解 釋他如何開展他的釀酒事業。 針對加州中海岸地區的風土和氣候而言,種植 不同葡萄品種以混合釀酒可能是最佳的做法, 而Randall也同時研究以單一葡萄品種釀酒, 務求種植出最適合在此地區生長的葡萄,釀 出上產區最佳的葡萄酒。他所釀造的A Proper Claret紅酒以Cabernet Sauvignon葡萄為 主,也混合了Cabernet、Merlot、Tannat、Petit Verdot、Syrah及Petite Syrah葡萄;而 釀自蒙特利郡的Clos de Gilroy紅酒則混合了 Grenache、Mourvèdre和Syrah葡萄,同區 也另外釀造出單一Albariño葡萄的白酒。當 然,以不同葡萄品種混合釀造的酒仍是酒莊的 主打,當中最有名的Le Cigare Volant也混合 了Syrah、Grenache、Cinsault、Mourvèdre 和Carginan葡萄。 為了令其釀造的葡萄酒全在他的設計之中,他 棄用木塞來密封酒瓶,所有葡萄酒均以扭蓋封 瓶。「從未有人把上乘的葡萄酒以扭蓋來密 封酒瓶」,他說這話時憶起,曾於2002年與 Jancis Robinson合作的研究—「木塞之死」 (The Death of Cork)。「有些美國研究者跟我 們說:『人們並不想買以扭蓋封瓶的葡萄酒, 木塞始終才是他們想要的。』從技術層面而 言,決定轉用扭蓋是明智之舉,不過也曾經憂 慮人們可能不接受。然而,我發現事實與這想 法不符—人們對於以木塞或扭蓋密封酒瓶根本 不在乎,也樂於接受扭蓋。」 細閱過Bonny Doon酒莊的網站,令人猜想到 底酒莊釀造的葡萄酒,偏向接近法國般按風土 氣候而釀造(Vin de Terroir),還是偏向按釀酒 師的個人風格而釀造(Vin d’effort) 。Randall指他所釀造的大部分葡萄酒均屬於後者, 但他強調:「我最先考慮的是葡萄酒本身,以 釀造出優質葡萄酒為目標;可是按風土氣候而 釀造葡萄酒同樣重要,其他因素也只是廢話而 已。我現正向着這個方向走,或許不能到達, 但我期待能夠做到。」 關於這一點,我們想知道Randall對以下情況 的看法:普遍加州葡萄酒正因為一個人而有着 同樣的風格—Robert Parker;以及這是否不 winetimeshk.com 9


specialise in Rhône valley varietals (Others include Yves Cuilleron who we interview later in the magazine, and Chester Osborn – another eccentric winemaker plying his trade in Australia). Outer space seems to play a part in Randall’s wines with the face of an alien playing a major part in the website and his marketing material and with UFO’s emblazoned on his labels. We wanted to know if he actually believed in aliens and life outside of our planet. “I am open to the idea that aliens and UFO’s exist – I am not a disbeliever put it that way. I haven’t had any proof or personal experience of them but honestly, nothing would surprise me. Maybe that’s the wakeup call we need; this planet needs to wake itself up so I would not be too unhappy if they came down here for us – I’ll be happy to go if they’d take me – but I doubt they’d have me!” So, should alien abduction never happen, we wanted to know how Randall would prefer to be remembered when he is no longer on this

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earth. “I can’t afford to die soon as I will be remembered as the guy who popularised screw caps and even though I’ll be dead, it’s still unsatisfactory so I have to accomplish something more that that before I shuffle off”, says Randall. “I would like ultimately to be a model for what we can achieve in the New World with regard to originality. The New World is great but we have not done much that’s original and we live in the anxiety of influence of the Old World – it’s always like ‘how do we copy’, ‘how do we make a Burgundian style of Pinot’, ‘how do we make a Rhone style Rhône’. We don’t even have a language for what we do, so my question is ‘how do we do something original?’” As we opened the story with our adjectives that we thought best described Randall, we wanted to close with the three adjectives he said he would best use to describe himself – and his three words were typical of Randall’s eccentricity…

利於加州的葡萄酒業發展。「現況正正如 此。例子就如Nappa  Valley的葡萄酒,其 酒精濃度全都在14%以上,所有酒莊也無一 例外,但其實那些酒難以入喉。在這不理性 的制度下,除非你釀造的葡萄酒是這般非自 然、高酒精濃度的,否則人們不會買,這是 多麼異乎尋常的事!」 言談之間,我們得知原來宇宙中有一顆小行 星以Randall的名字命名,為本已古怪的他 更添一份離奇!「這的確十分酷,至少它不 是顆佈滿火焰的殞石!它真正的名字是『羅 納遊俠』(Rhône  Ranger)。」—名字由來 源自一班乖僻的釀酒師,他們專門以生長於 Rhone山谷的葡萄品種去釀酒。(其中一位便 是Yves Cuilleron,今期WTHK雜誌也有幸與 他作了訪問;另外,以澳洲作為釀酒基地的 Chester Osborn也是其中一員。) Randall的葡萄酒似乎圍繞着有關外太空的 事物,先是酒標上的太空船飛碟,而網站的 首頁也附有外星人在捉拿地球人的插圖。究 竟他相信外星人以及外太空生物的存在嗎? 「我對此抱開放態度,又或者說我並非不信 者。我並無掌握外太空生物存在的證據,也 未曾與之有過第三類接觸,但即使這全都是 真的,我也不感到驚訝。可能我們現在就需 要覺醒,如果我們所居住的地球並無問題, 他們不會來到地球的。就算他們真的要來地 球綁架人類,我也不會感到太難過,反之他 們把我帶到外太空的話,我更感到開心!不


過我懷疑他們會否選中我。」 不論外星人會綁架Randall與否,我們問他在 離開地球或離世以後,還想被世人記得嗎?「 我還捨不得太早死,因為我會被紀念為『使扭 蓋興起的人』,這太不如人意了!我一定要在 『熄燈』之前再做些有意義的事。」Randall 說。 「我希望我最後能成為新世界釀酒師榜樣—釀 造出具原創性的葡萄酒。新世界的葡萄酒無 疑很好,但當中原創、獨特的卻不多,加上受 着舊世界葡萄酒的巨大影響,許多新世界酒莊 自然只會着眼於:『如何複製釀造出一樣的葡 萄酒?』、『如何釀出勃艮地的Pinot Noir紅 酒?』、『怎樣才能釀出Rhone風格的Rhone 葡萄酒?』。我們(新世界葡萄酒)甚至沒有屬 於自己的一套,所以我的着眼點是:『我們如 何釀造出具獨特風格的葡萄酒?』」 在文首,我們列出幾個形容詞,表達我們對 Randall的印象;現在為文章作結,我們想問 問他本人會以哪些形容詞來代表自己,而答案 也充分反映他的奇異怪誕的個性:「專注力失 調過度活躍症(A.D.D.)、理想主義者和他__的 認真!」 Bonny Doon酒莊的葡萄酒肯定為非一般的加 州葡萄酒:優雅含蓄,而不是我們常見「難以 高攀」或是「怎麼也喝不完」的那類葡萄酒。 我們認為,如果你願意試試這些葡萄酒的話, 你肯定也會跟我們一樣,對其留下深刻印象( 現在依然深刻)。可幸的是,澳門的酒零售商 Claret Wines入口該酒莊的葡萄酒,使身處於 此區的愛酒者也可享受到這些美酒。欲取得更 多資訊,可與Timothy Feather聯絡,電郵:timothy@claret-wines.com;電話:+853 2841 0258。

“A.D.D. (Attention Deficit Disorder), idealistic and f**king serious!” The wines of Bonny Doon are certainly not your typical Californian wines; they are elegant, restrained and not those ‘in your face’, ‘can’t finish the bottle’ style that is so commonly seen these days. We think should you give them a try you will be as seriously impressed as we were (and still are). Thankfully, the wines are available in the region as they are imported into Macau by Claret Wines. For more information contact Timothy Feather by email on timothy@ claret-wines.com or give them a call on +853 2841 0258.

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Spring Wines with the King of Condrieu – Yves Cuilleron

春暖花開之酒:孔德里約之王Yves Cuilleron

Text by Ali Nicol

Text by Ali Nicol

譯文:Christie Chan

撰文:Ali Nicol

Y

ves Cuilleron is something of a Rhône winemaking legend. The King of Condrieu has been making wine since taking over the family estate after studying mechanical engineering at university but has warmed to it and now makes some of the very best wines in the region. “Actually I studied engineering and mechanics but my uncle was about to sell his vineyard when I had just finished school and I worked one year with him and after that I worked alone”, Yves told Wine Times HK. “If you study mechanical engineering then it takes less time to repair things like the tractor – so there is a plus side!” His estate comprises of 56 14 winetimeshk.com

hectares, which encompasses 6 Crus, the majority of which is held in St. Joseph (15 hectares) but also farms both the Condrieu AOC (10 hectares) and Vin de France (10 hectares) and also has vineyards in Côte-Rôtie, Crozes Hermitage and Cornas.

造Rhône風格葡萄酒的傳奇人物,定少 釀 不了提到法國釀酒師Yves  Cuilleron的 名字—「孔德里約之王」(The King of Condrieu)。自他畢業於機械工程系起,他便接手 家族式經營的酒莊,專心投入葡萄酒事業,多 年來釀造出法國孔德里約產區精緻優質的美酒 佳釀。

Yves actually makes 14 reds, 13 whites, a Rosé and some sweet wines from traditional grapes found in the Rhone – that is (for the reds) Syrah and (for the whites) Marsanne, Rousanne and, of course Viognier.

「當年我在學校修讀的科目的確是機械工程, 不過在我快要畢業時,我的叔叔卻想要把酒莊 賣掉,所以我一畢業後,便加入酒莊工作。最 初的第一年我與叔叔一起工作,但其後我便需 獨自負責酒莊業務。」Yves向WTHK表示。「 假如你修讀過機械工程系,不消一會你便能修 理好農田上的拖拉機,所以也有好處的!」

“Condrieu in itself is a small appellation”, Yves says. “It’s about 180 hectares these days and is the origin of the Viognier grape. Just 40 years ago you would only find

Yves的酒莊佔地56公頃,共有6個葡萄 園 , 其 中 主 要 在 法 國 St .   J o s e p h 地 區 擁 有 1 5 公 頃 農 地 , 而 在 C o n d r i e u   AO C 及 V i n de  France地區分別有10公頃農地,同時在 Côte-Rôtie、Crozes  Hermitage及Cornas


Viognier in Condrieu – at that time the whole appellation was just 15 hectares”. “These days Viognier has been planted all over the south of France and also in the new world wine making countries. However, Viognier needs cooler climatic conditions so sometimes it finds it hard to adapt to the warmer climates of places such as Australia”, Yves elaborates. “Viognier is a very aromatic grape – you can find aromas of violets and apricots but sometimes there is not enough acidity so it’s important to find the right place to get the right balance – otherwise it will be heavy and over sweet. In fact, Condrieu used to be a sweet wine in the 19th century and only four or five of us make it in this style these days”. “Viognier is a very aromatic grape – you can find aromas of violets and apricots but sometimes there is not enough acidity so it’s important to find the right place to get the right balance – otherwise it will be heavy and over sweet. In fact, Condrieu used to be a sweet wine in the 19th century and only four or five of us make it in this style these days”. Tasting the Yves Cuilleron Condrieu La Petite Cote 2012 one really sees what an elegant wine can come from such an understated varietal. The wine has lovely explosive aromas with a beautiful creamy texture on the palate that leaves the finish with a touch of sweetness. “This is my most important cuvee”, says Yves. “I try to make it fresh and floral”. It is the kind of wine that not just gives the palate excitement but the brain too.

It gets us to thinking why people do not drink more of the grape that makes such expressive, floral and delicate wines that are so aptly able to pair with Asian style foods and at the same time are completely enjoyable just as they are on their own. Interestingly enough, they are wines that are designed to age well too notes Yves. “Aged Condrieu should most definitely be decanted”, he says. “But if I open a good bottle of Condrieu on an evening and do not finish the bottle, the development is intense and the wine tastes excellent the next day”. Not many white wines need decanting but as you enjoy a bottle of Condrieu, the evolution is alarmingly apparent so if you don’t decant, you can enjoy the evolution as you consume the bottle. As the warmer Spring months approach and our thoughts turn from red to white wines and the ability to eat lighter foods (preferably by the beach) then Viognier is certainly a grape that should be considered a staple for the time of year and, if you can find a good Condrieu do not turn down the opportunity to sample the floral, fresh notes of these exceptional wines. Arguably, Yves Cuilleron makes some of if not the best Condrieu so it you are looking for a benchmark wine to kick start the Spring look out for the wines of Yves Cuilleron. Yves Cuilleron Wines are available from Sarment in Hong Kong. For more information contact Kim Yeung at Sarment on +852 2187 3290 or by email on kim. yeung@sarmentwine.com

地區種植葡萄。他釀造的14款紅酒、13款白 酒、一款玫瑰紅酒以及幾款甜酒,均以傳統 長生於Rhone產區的葡萄所釀造,當中包括 紅酒葡萄品種Syrah,以及白酒葡萄品種Marsanne和Rousanne,當然更少不了Viognier。 「孔德里約是一個細小的產區。」Yves說。「 現時這區佔地大概180公頃,是Viognier葡萄 品種的起源地。若在40年前,這產區只有15 公頃,而且種植的也只有Viognier葡萄。」 Yves加以闡述:「現時整個法國南部以及新世 界也種植着Viognier葡萄,但這種葡萄需要在 較清涼的氣候下長生,因此有時可能難以適應 氣候較和暖的地區,例如澳洲。」 「Viognier葡萄是具濃郁香氣的品種,當中的 紫羅蘭的花香與杏的果香最為明顯,但有時候 這種葡萄的酸度可能有所不足,所以很重要的 一點是,需要找個適合的地方種植這葡萄,才 可使各方面達到平衡,否則所釀的葡萄酒會太 甜,其酒體亦會較厚重。事實上,孔德里約在 19世紀時盛產甜酒,但現時只有四到五個酒 莊仍生產這種風格的甜酒。」 喝到Yves Cuilleron Condrieu La Petite Cote 2012,你大概也會想:「這麼優雅的美酒原 來釀自那麼低調的葡萄品種。」這酒濃郁的香 氣不斷湧出來,充滿着整個口腔,其口感如奶 油般順滑,餘韻帶點甜味。「這是我最重要 的特釀(cuvee),令其具清新花香味。」Yves 說。這酒不僅只帶給你味覺上的刺激,同時也 使你的大腦感到興奮。這讓我們找不着頭腦— 如此花香濃郁且精緻的白酒,不僅容易可與亞 洲菜式配搭,同時也可以單獨品嚐,但為何人 們都不太喝它? 有趣的是,Yves向我們指出這些酒其實也可 陳擺的,他說:「陳擺過的Condrieu必定要 先把酒傾析出;但如果我開了一瓶好的Condrieu,一個晚上卻喝不完整瓶,酒的變化會 愈加強烈,於第二天變得更可口了。」享用大 部分白酒也不需先把酒傾析出,但當你享受的 是一瓶Condrieu時,酒的變化極為明顯,因 此你若不先把它傾析出,那你便可嚐到當中變 化的層次。 隨着春天正向我們揮手,不少人喝酒時的選 擇,也從紅酒轉向到白酒,而且輕食也逐漸 受歡迎(可以的話更想到躺在沙灘上),這正正 最適合享用Condrieu的季節。如果你看到一 瓶Condrieu美酒,千萬不要放棄去品它的香 氣,去嚐它的清新,讓味覺感受一下它的與眾 不同。可能有些人會予以否定,但Yves Cuilleron釀造出孔德里約葡萄酒中,部分甚或最 好的佳釀。因此,若你對具指標性的葡萄酒有 興趣,可以一嚐Yves Cuilleron的葡萄酒,好 好迎接充滿生氣的春天。 Yves  Cuilleron所釀造的葡萄酒於本港酒零 售商Sarment有售,詳情請與Kim  Yeung聯 絡;電話:+852 2187 3290;電郵:kim. yeung@sarmentwine.com。

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Over 38 booths of food and wine from around the world, wine school, live entertainment and so much more. Come and join us celebrate! 超過38個來自世界各地的美食美酒攤位,還有品酒 學校及其他精彩節目等。快前來讓我們一起來慶祝這 個盛大的葡萄酒美食節!

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THE WINE DOCTOR: Dr. Galli’s Homeland Wines - Switzerland 酒博士專欄:尋找他鄉的葡萄酒 - 瑞士 Text by Ali Nicol

譯文:Christie Chan

D

r. Galli is on holiday this month and has headed home to his native Switzerland for some rest and relaxation. So we thought we’d take a look at the wines from his homeland and see what it is he could be drinking while away!

have the international popularity that other varieties such as Cabernet or Syrah do but the Merlot from Switzerland has a great acidic backbone, minerality and a food pairing necessity that tends to make it a wine that is seldom drunk without food.

When one thinks of Switzerland one would generally think yodelling, cheese, chocolate or watches – the least likely word to come from your mouth may well be wine. But there are some great wines made in Switzerland and the Swiss rather like drinking it within their own borders which means that less than 2 per cent of total production is exported to the rest of the world. Fortunately, some of that 2 per cent lands on the shores of Hong Kong and over the last few years we have seen an increased amount of wines coming from the country.

Pinot Noir is the number one planted grape in Switzerland whilst the second most abundant is Chasselas which goes to make wines commonly labelled as Fendant. While many of us ‘wine geeks’ are used to drinking red wines with our cheese, the Swiss have mastered pairing white wines with their cheeses and in particular their two signature cheese dishes; Raclette and Fondue. This is because Chasselas is a full bodied white wine that is dry, but also very fruit forward.

The major wine producing regions of Switzerland are Geneva, Neuchâtel, Ticino, Valais and Vaud. White grapes varieties are grown on 42% of the country’s vineyard surface whilst red grape varieties make up the other 58%. However, one of the biggest problems with Swiss wines (other than the lack of export) is that many of their wines are made from indigenous grapes such as Chasselas, Amigne de Vétroz and Petite Arvine. But they do also make plenty of wines from international grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay. In fact, the close proximity of the region of Valais in Switzerland to Burgundy in France makes it a prime Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay region; grapes from which they make not only white and red wines, but some exceptional world-class rosé wines. Due to limited production (and again the lack of exports) these wines can be as expensive as a good Burgundy and sadly these days, people would rather drink an expensive wine they know rather than take a risk on one they don’t. Another red grape which is very prominent in Valais in southern Switzerland near the border with Italy is Merlot. Merlot may not

One reason for the success of wines from certain countries in the city is the abundance of restaurants that champion the cuisine of the country as well as the wines. Hong Kong however is sadly lacking in Swiss cuisine and only really celebrates the food and wine on Swiss National Day (August 1st). Were there more restaurants serving the food from Switzerland, we are sure there would be more wines on the market and they would have an increased market share. So, whilst Dr. Galli is away, we hope he has a fantastic break filled with plenty of locally made wines that stimulate the mind as much as they do the palate. If you see a Swiss wine in your local shop or on a restaurant wine list go ahead and give it a try. It will, like anything else Swiss be expensive, but it may just be that ‘something out of the ordinary’ you have been looking for all these years – and with any luck, Dr. Galli will tell us more about the wines he tried on these pages in future.

們的酒博士Galli回到家鄉瑞士度假了, 我 所以我們為大家介紹產自該地的葡萄 酒,看看他會否也在喝下述的葡萄酒呢? 提到瑞士,一般最先聯想到的便是約德爾歌 唱調子(Yodel)、芝士、巧克力和鐘錶,不 太可能會想到葡萄酒。然而,瑞士其實出產 一些佳釀,而瑞士人極喜愛喝本土釀造的美 酒,因此全國只有低於2%的葡萄酒才出口到 國外。雖然瑞士出口的葡萄酒佔極少數,幸 好香港也是瑞士葡萄酒的其中一個落腳點, 近年來本港市面上也出現更多來自瑞士的酒 品選擇。 瑞士主要的葡萄酒產區為日內瓦(Geneva)、 紐沙泰爾(Neuchâtel)、提契諾(Ticino)、瓦 萊(Valais)及沃德(Vaud),而種植紅酒葡萄與 白酒葡萄的比例分別是58%及42%。瑞士的 酒莊多種植本土原生的葡萄品種,例如Chasselas、Amigne de Vétroz和Petite Arvine, 但這構成了瑞士葡萄酒業發展的其中一個障 礙(除了出口量低之外)。話雖如此,我們仍 可於瑞士找到國際化的葡萄品種,例如Chardonnay, Pinot Noir和Gamay。 事實上,瓦萊產區與法國勃艮地相類似,能 夠釀造出優質Chardonnay、Pinot  Noir及 Gamay葡萄酒,除紅白酒外,此產區還釀造 出世界級水平的氣泡玫瑰紅酒。可惜的是, 由於產量不多(出口同樣不多),這些佳釀的 價格高昂,甚至與高級Burgundy紅酒看齊, 但消費者往往只會花費於名氣較高的葡萄酒 上,不願作出新嘗試而錯過一嚐瑞士美酒的 機會。 位於瑞士南部的瓦萊產區,當中與意大利接 壤的地區主力種植Merlot葡萄。雖然這種葡 萄品種未能與Cabernet或Syrah葡萄的受歡 迎程度相比,但產自瑞士的Merlot紅酒酸度 宜人,而且帶有礦物味道,比起單獨品嚐, 更適合在配搭食物下享用,是不錯的餐酒選 擇。 瑞士這片土地上最常見的葡萄品種是Pinot Noir,而數量緊隨其後的便是Chasselas葡 萄,亦較常稱為Fendant。不少葡萄酒友喜歡 以芝士配搭紅酒享用,然而瑞士人也會以白 酒來配搭他們的日常食材,特別是當地兩道 招牌菜:Raclette(烤芝士)及Fondue(芝士火 鍋)。Chasselas白酒味道乾澀,但果香濃郁 且酒體厚重,因此適合配搭芝士飲用。 我們希望酒博士Galli現在正享受愉快的假 期,喝到數之不盡的瑞士葡萄酒,使身心能 夠好好放鬆。假如你在香港的酒品零售店或 餐廳,看到有售瑞士葡萄酒──價格雖一如瑞 士的百物騰貴,但其不平凡的特質值得你一 試。可能酒博士Galli回港後,有機會與我們 分享他的所見所聞,最主要還是他嚐到的好 酒! winetimeshk.com 17


Be your own beer supplier: Homebrewing 動手釀造自家啤酒

Text and Photography by Christie Chan 圖文:Christie Chan

I

nput wheat, hops, yeast and water and guess what the output is? BEER! Probably you already know these are the basic ingredients of brewing beer – in fact you can brew your own beer with them at home – but there is a classroom for home brewing that can now be found in Central where you can learn the basics of brewing beer, HK Brewcraft so we stopped in for a quick lesson to see what it’s all about!

accountant said.

Co-founder of HK Brewcraft, Chris Wong, found his love for beer brewing 8 years ago when he was studying at college in San Francisco. He got inspiration from San Francisco Brewcraft where you can purchase the ingredients and a kit for home brewing, as well as a hub for beer brewers to exchange ideas and share their brewing experience. “Most people I met there are low-profile experts of beer brewing and I learned a lot from them. I brewed my first beer there and it was a success by both accident and by luck; it tasted a lot better than the ones on shelves,” the former

“We founded the place for two main reasons; first of course we want to make money, and second we want to promote a home beer brewing culture in Hong Kong and encourage more home brewers to join us having fun,” Chris said as he shared his thoughts and aspirations. “Hong Kong’s locally brewed beer is trash, still consumers take that because there is nearly no other options but the ones you can find in a 7-11 convenience store.” He pointed out that the home beer brewing movement in Hong Kong has been relatively inactive and that more than 99% of beers consumed in the

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About 8 months after his return to Hong Kong working in one of the Big Four audit firms where workloads and stress seemed to be unlimited, he soon realised he couldn’t give up his passion for beer brewing and decided to get out of his comfort zone and opened the only homebrew store in Hong Kong with 7 other beer brewing friends in 2012.

麥、啤酒花、酵母和水,光是這四種材 小 料便可釀製成啤酒!可能你已經知道上 述材料為啤酒的基本成分,不過你有否想過可

以親手釀造屬於自己的啤酒?位於中環的HK Brewcraft,不單是個教人釀造自家啤酒的課 室,也是售賣釀造啤酒所需用具及材料的店 舖,現在就讓我帶大家去看個究竟。 這店的其中一位創辦人Chris Wong,八年前 第一次嘗試釀造自己的啤酒,結果一釀愛上, 自始一直醉心於釀造啤酒。當時他於美國三藩 市讀書,在機緣巧合下來到了一間售賣啤酒原 材料及釀酒用具的店舖San Francisco Brewcraft。那家店是不少「啤酒友」的聚腳點,讓 愛好釀造手工啤酒的人能互相交流,交換釀酒 心得,因而令Chris留下深刻印象,並且受到 啟發。「那店可真『臥虎藏龍』,許多到訪者 也是釀造啤酒的專家,我從他們身上也學到不 少。我在那裏釀造出第一款自家啤酒,其味道 意外地比貨架上的啤酒還要好,簡直像『中頭 獎』一樣。」Chris說。 曾任職於四大會計師行之一的Chris,三年前 因工作而回流返港。然而,香港的工作環境令 人窒息,八個月以來所累積的龐大工作壓力, 令他毅然放棄高薪職位,以個人興趣創業,與 七名志同道合的酒友,於2012年共同開店經 營售賣全港獨市的啤酒原材料。 「決定開店背後主要有兩個原因,第一當然是 為了賺錢;第二,我們想推動更多香港人投身


local market are manufactured beers - while the market ratio of the U.S. is around 17% of craft beers and 83% of manufactured beers. Due to the lack of space and supply of ingredients and equipment, home beer brewing has been unpopular in Hong Kong however the trend has been changing as some local commercial craft beer brewers have recently started up (examples are Young Master Ales, Hong Kong Beer Company, Nine Dragons Brewery, Moonzen Brewery, BrewDog, Tipping Point Brewing Company) and the major annual craft beer event Beertopia has been held here annually for some years; of course HK Brewcraft has also played its part as it is the only place you can find everything you need for brewing beer in town. So how to home brew your own beer for real? Simply follow the 6 steps stated on their website: preparing the equipment, “mashing” or making porridge of grains (to steep grains in hot water to create a sugary soup called the “wort”), “sparging” or soaking and rinsing the grains, boiling the wort with hops, spices and other flavouring ingredients, mixing yeast in to the chilled wort and allowing time for

fermentation (generally 4 weeks in total) and at the end, bottling. The store sells brewing kits by different volumes – 1 Gallon and 5 Gallon respectively. The former is designed for starter home brewers with limited space to store equipment and the latter is designed for more advanced brewers who desire to brew for a higher volume (and are skilled enough that the beer will be less likely to turn bad). Of course it also sells home beer brewing ingredients and some are rare in supply in Hong Kong, such as varieties of liquid yeast and hops. There is a tremendous number of different kinds of beers available on their shelves and they would be surprised should shoppers not leave there with a bottle or two in their hands! Besides learning how to home brew a beer at HK Brewcraft, beer lovers can also enroll in their 2-hour beer appreciation workshop to take one step closer to be a beer expert. Take a more detailed look at their website at www. hkbrewcraft.com or walk in to the store at 4/F, Kwok Lun Commercial House, 15 Cochrane Street, Central to unleash ultimate fun with beers!

Ask Chris about BEER! 與Chris談啤酒 WTHK: Among all craft and manufactured beer available in Hong Kong, which is your favourite? CW: Island 1842 Imperial IPA by Young Master Ales. WTHK: Which is your favourite local beer bar? CW: The Globe in Central. WTHK: Which is your favourite place to buy beer besides your own store? CW: The Bottle Shop in Sai Kung. WTHK: What do you consider as your biggest achievement in beer brewing? CW: I am proud to be the first “Hong Kongese” beer judge under Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) and among our 8 co-founders, 6 of us are also qualified under BJCP. WTHK:在所有香港買得到的啤酒當中,你最喜歡哪款啤酒? CW:少爺麥啤釀造的Island 1842 Imperial IPA。 WTHK:你最喜歡哪間啤酒酒吧? CW:位於中環的The Globe WTHK:除了你自己的店鋪外,你最喜歡哪間啤酒零售店? CW:位於西貢的The Bottle Shop WTHK:在釀造啤酒生涯中,你認為甚麼是你最大的成就? CW:我是第一個香港人取得Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP)的專業評審啤酒資格,我為此感到自豪。而且我 與七位合伙人當中,有六位亦取得同樣的專業資格。

釀造啤酒,與我們一起樂在其中,也希望市面 上出現更多手工啤酒。」這番話透露了Chris 心中所想的。「香港本地啤酒根本是垃圾!不 過仍然有許多人喝本地啤酒,因為選擇不多, 你也只能買7-11便利店有售的啤酒吧。」他 指出香港手工啤酒業的發展並不理想,啤酒商 釀造的啤酒佔比超過99%;反觀美國市場,啤 酒商與手工啤酒的比例分別為17%和83%。 由於香港寸金尺土,加上難以入手釀造啤酒的 原材料,因此釀造自家啤酒與潮流沾不上邊。 然而,隨着更多本地釀造手工啤酒商出現(例 如少爺麥啤、香港啤酒、九龍啤酒、門神啤 酒、BrewDog以及Tipping Point),而大型手 工啤酒節Beertopia近年來亦於香港舉行,釀 造自家啤酒的文化似乎開始萌芽。當然,不能 忽略HK Brewcraft所出的一分力,讓釀造手工 啤酒的人可以更容易購得啤酒原材料。 到底如何釀造自家啤酒?只需簡單地跟着這店 網頁上的六個步驟:準備所需用具,把穀物加 水煮至軟身以提取充滿糖分「麥汁(wort)」, 浸泡及沖洗煮過的穀物,在麥汁中加入啤酒 花、香料及其他調味食材再煮,將酵母加進已 放涼的麥汁當中,靜待四星期的發酵時間,最 後便可把啤酒入樽。 該店售賣釀造自家啤酒的用具套裝,其釀造容 量分別為1加侖及5加侖。前者比較適合初入 門的新手,又或是存放空間不足的釀酒者;後 者則較適合有一定經驗的釀酒者,不然便有機 會使足足5加侖的啤酒毀於一旦。店內也有售 賣不常見的啤酒原材料,如液態酵母和多種不 同的啤酒花,同時也有多款來自世界各地的手 工啤酒任君選擇,使你絕不會空手而回! 除了學習釀造自家啤酒外,你也可於HK Brewcraft上一節兩小時的啤酒賞析工作坊, 邁向成為知識淵博的啤酒專家。想知道有關詳 情,可瀏覽其網站www.hkbrewcraft.com, 或親身到該店尋寶,發掘新奇有趣的手工啤 酒。地址:中環中環閣麟街15號國麟大廈4樓 winetimeshk.com 19


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“Join us for Tasting” Panel: Thai vs. Antipodean 飲食擂台:泰國 對 澳紐

Let’s rock wine tasting in a way other than with the “professionals”. Here we present to you our “keep it real” tasting panel, where we invite our readers to join us to taste wines and give real honest feedback. Each month, we will take wines from a particular country or area and take you out for dinner with your friends and all you have to do is tell us and our readers what you think of the wines and simply enjoy a delightful dinner! This issue is slightly different from the previous ones as we have picked wines from a rather large area instead of one single country - the Antipodes (Australia and New Zealand). We invited readers to Thai restaurant Mini Bangkok in Kowloon City to taste these New World wines with us. Are the wines good for Thai food? Check out our readers’ comments on the next pages. Photography & Text by Christie Chan & Stephy Poon

有別於一貫刻板的專業酒評,WTHK每期的飲 食擂台將邀請讀者與我們一同嚐盡美酒佳餚, 讓他們寫下最真實的感受及酒評,並親身告訴 所有讀者。我們每月會挑選一個國家或地區的 葡萄酒,宴請讀者和朋友們邊享用晚餐邊品嚐 美酒,並即席寫下和分享對酒品的想法。 今期的《飲食擂台》與之前的略有不同,這次 我們讓讀者一次過嚐到產自兩個不同國家的葡 萄酒—同屬新世界產地的澳洲與紐西蘭。我們 邀請讀者到位於九龍城的泰國菜餐廳小曼谷, 在邊吃邊喝同時,也互相交換對這些葡萄酒的 意見。想知道他們的第一身意見?轉下頁一看 究竟! 圖文:Christie Chan & Stephy Poon ALL WINES SUPPLIED BY ENOTECA 葡萄酒由ENTOTECA提供 www.enoteca.com.hk

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Sileni Estates Estate Selection The Plateau Pinot Noir 2012

Grant Burge Barossa 5th Generation Chardonnay 2012

Colour: Orange red Aroma/Smell: It smells like cherry. Taste: Rather mild but with a bitter taste and crisp feeling. Why do you like it? The bitter taste and crisp feeling made it more like a “men wine”. It’s good for a guys’ night out with a steak or casual drinks. It’s smooth. I think people might eventually drink too much before they know when to stop! Best food pairing: BBQ pork and beef; Barbecued Pork Cheek.

Colour: Gold Aroma/Smell: Floral small with little hints of jasmine Taste: It’s crisp with notes of passion fruit and lemon. The after taste is long enough. Why do you like it? I like how friendly this wine feels like, it’s very approachable even for someone who doesn’t drink wine often. And I think this wine is good for happy hour, to chill and relax with friends. With or without food both will be fine. Best food pairing: Perfect match with tonight’s Shrimp Sashimi in Thai Style!

顏色:橙紅色 香氣/氣味:櫻桃香氣 味道:較平和,口感爽口而帶點苦 為何喜歡?帶苦味和爽身質感令它較像 「男人酒」,適合一班男生外出吃牛扒 或聊天時喝。整體感覺很順滑,會令人 不自覺地多喝了! 最佳食物配搭:豬肉和牛肉串燒、泰式 豬頸肉

Sam Lam

Vice President of Watch Trading Firm

顏色:金色 香氣/氣味:花香味,當中有點茉莉花香 味道:這酒質感清爽,帶有熱情果和檸 檬果味,其餘韻也夠長 為何喜歡?我喜歡它給人平易近人的感 覺,即使不常喝酒的人應該也易於接 受。適合在歡樂時光時喝它,和朋友輕 鬆一下。不論配搭食物與否,也可喝上 這酒。 最佳食物配搭:今晚的泰式生蝦與它是 絕配!

鐘錶貿易公司副總裁

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Grant Burge Barossa 5th Generation Chardonnay 2012

Sileni Estates Estate Selection The Triangle Merlot 2009

Colour: Pale yellow Aroma/Smell: Floral aromas Taste: Apricot and peach flavours. Medium-bodied with medium acidity. Why do you like it? It’s another typical happy hour drink. It’s nothing too strong which is good for a relaxing afternoon or evening to get yourself relaxed. The floral aromas and tropical fruits flavours made this wine very easy to drink too. Best food pairing: Tonight’s Shrimp Sashimi in Thai Style and Thai Style Pomelo Salad.

Colour: Dark red Aroma/Smell: Dark wood and chocolate aromas Taste: Medium-bodied with woody and dark berry flavours. Why do you like it? I think this red in general is a well-balanced wine. The tannins are rather soft and smooth. There’s acidity but in a mild way. You will keep pouring it while chatting and eating with friends. This is a good choice for table wine! Best food pairing: Meat. BBQ beef or Barbecued Pork Cheek.

顏色:淡黃色 香氣/氣味:花香味 味道:杏脯和桃味。中厚身和 中等酸度。 為何喜歡?它是另一枝歡樂時光會挑選 的白酒。它柔和不強勢,很適合在一個 悠閒下午時段飲用,令自己放鬆。它的 花香和熱帶果味道,令它更易入口。 最佳食物配搭:今晚的泰式生蝦和泰式 柚子沙律

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顏色:深紅色 香氣/氣味:木香味和朱古力味 味道:中厚身,帶木味和果莓味。 為何喜歡?它是一枝平衡做得不錯的紅 酒。它的單寧偏柔和順滑,酸度適中。 很適合一邊跟朋友吃飯聊天,一邊 喝着它。 最佳食物配搭:肉類。牛肉串燒或泰式 豬頸肉。

Stephy Poon WTHK’s PR Executive WTHK公關


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Grant Burge 5th Generation Chardonnay 2012

Grant Burge Moscato Rosa Frizzante 2013

Colour: Light gold Aroma/Smell: Light floral smell Taste: Mild sweet with peach, apricot and lemon flavours. Why do you like it? It’s light and fresh. It’s very easy to drink for everyone! Not too sweet or too dry, but something in between. The floral aroma is quite pleasant. Best food pairing: Thai Style Shrimp Sashimi

Colour: Orange pink Aroma/Smell: Smells like dessert and rose petal Taste: It’s a bit sweet like rosebased desserts. Why do you like it? The colour, smell and aromas of this wine are very girlish. Gals can easily finish this like having juice. And I think the package of the bottle looks very elegant too! Best food pairing: Some fresh fruit or Thai Style Pomelo Salad

顏色:淡金色 香氣/氣味:微微花香 味道:中等甜度,有蜜桃、杏脯和 檸檬果味 為何喜歡?它入口感覺輕盈清新,對大 部人來說都應該算易於接受。不會太甜 或太乾身,恰到好處,其花香味也頗為 怡人。 最佳食物配搭:泰式生蝦

顏色:橙粉紅色 香氣/氣味:玫瑰花的香味 味道:甜甜的,像是以玫瑰花 來造的甜品 為何喜歡?它的顏色和香氣給人的感覺 就如女生一樣。女士們喝這酒 就像是喝果汁那麼容易。另外它的樽身 設計也很優雅! 最佳食物配搭:新鮮生果或是今晚吃到 的泰式柚子沙律

Fion Cheung

Wealth Management Vice President 財富管理顧問

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Jasmine Li Fashion Buyer 時裝買手

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Sileni Estates Estate Selection The Plateau Pinot Noir 2012

Sileni Estates Estate Selection The Triangle Merlot 2009

Colour: Dark red Aroma/Smell: Sour and woody smell Taste: Bitter taste with tannins flavours. Medium-bodied with medium acidity. Why do you like it? Although this wine has a bitter taste with tannins, it’s still smooth and acceptable in general. At first I didn’t like it that much, but when time went by, I started to like it more and found it with more complexity. Best food pairing: Beef or steak would match well with the tannins, for example the BBQ beef we had tonight.

Colour: Dark purple Aroma/Smell: Sour and sand-like smell Taste: It’s rather dry and sour. It tasted like a men’s wine Why do you like it? I like its aftertaste which was lingering. Although this might be a bit strong for some gals, I personally like it wines that are slightly drier than usual. A good red wine for dinner but not happy hour. Best food pairing: Heavily flavoured pasta or meat

顏色:深紅色 香氣/氣味:酸且帶木味 味道:苦苦的味道,有單寧 為何喜歡?雖然它具單寧而帶苦,但感 覺醇香,整體來說可以接受。最先喝下 的時候,我真的不太喜歡,但給它一點 時間後,我發現它的複雜性,因而開始 喜歡它。 最佳食物配搭:牛肉或牛扒會與它的單 寧合襯,例如今晚的牛肉串燒

顏色:深紫色 香氣/氣味:酸且帶點沙泥氣味 味道:乾身和酸,似是男人的酒 為何喜歡?我喜歡它久久不散去的餘 韻。雖然它對某些女士來說,可能太過 強烈,但我個人偏好較乾身的葡萄酒。 它是一瓶好的晚餐紅酒,但不是歡樂時 光的選擇。 最佳食物配搭:濃味的意粉和肉類


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Sileni Estates Estate Selection The Triangle Merlot 2009

Grant Burge Barossa 5th Generation Chardonnay 2012

Colour: Dark red Aroma/Smell: Rich and intense smell Taste: It tasted a bit sweet at first but then it became more intense later. Complicated, with a long finish and mild tannins. Why do you like it? That’s the wine that would make me want to drink more and more. It’s something that I will remember after a night of drinking. Best food pairing: Meat like the BBQ pork and beef.

Colour: Light redGolden yellow Aroma/Smell: Mild lemon smell Taste: Citrus fruit and honey flavours with a light texture. Why do you like it? This wine is light and easy to drink. It’s good to have it as a “starter drink”, chat with friends and have some nuts and chips. Best food pairing: Seafood would be great; Thai Style Shrimp Sashimi, Barbecued Fish with Spicy Sauce and Baked Seafood with Young Coconut and Rice.

顏色:深紅色 香氣/氣味:氣味強烈且濃郁 味道:初時感覺帶甜,之後漸變濃烈。 這酒層次複雜,中度單寧而餘韻長 為何喜歡?這是一瓶會令我不知不覺愈 喝愈多的紅酒,即使經過一整夜的酒精 之後,我仍會記得這酒的味道。 最佳食物配搭:肉類,豬肉和牛肉串燒

顏色:金黃色 香氣/氣味:柔和的檸檬味 味道:柑橘類水果和蜜糖味道,感覺 輕盈 為何喜歡?這枝酒很容易入口,適合作 為餐前酒,和朋友邊聊邊喝,以花生和 薯片佐酒。 最佳食物配搭:與海鮮會很配搭,例如 今晚的泰式生蝦、泰式燒烏頭配辣汁和 椰青海鮮焗飯也不錯。

Stanley Chan

Wealth Management District Director 財富管理顧問

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Grant Burge 5th Generation Chardonnay 2012

Grant Burge Cameron Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Colour: Calm and pale yellow Aroma/Smell: Very pleasant honey aromas Taste: Moderate acidity with slight bitter finish reminds me the taste of lemon skin Why do you like it? The main reason I like this wine is simply its easy drinking style. This white is a well-balanced wine that you won’t leave very bad comment of. Best food pairing: Definitely Shrimp Sashimi in Thai Style we had on the table. The little slice of garlic spices up and makes me want to drink more of the wine.

Colour: Deep red Aroma/Smell: Some dark fruits aromas but not rich and strong Taste: Ripe fruits with decent tannins and medium body Why do you like it? This red is a good dinner wine and can be easily finished at the dining table. I appreciate its easiness of pairing food with. Best food pairing: Any meat in any cooking style, such as BBQ chicken and beef we had tonight.

顏色:偏向冷色系的淡黃色 香氣/氣味:充滿怡人的蜜糖香氣 味道:酸度中等,餘韻略帶點苦澀, 令我聯想到檸檬皮 為何喜歡?最主要原因為其容易入喉的 特質。這枝白酒各方面也很平均,相信 嚐過它的人難以給予劣評 最佳食物配搭:必定是餐桌上的泰式生 蝦。附着生蝦的蒜片大大刺激味蕾,令 我更想多喝點酒

顏色:深紅色 香氣/氣味:黑果類香氣,但不濃烈 味道:帶有熟果味道,且具適度單寧, 其酒體亦不重不輕 為何喜歡?這紅酒是枝好的餐酒,容易 與食物配搭起來。若把它放在餐桌上, 將會一滴也不剩地全被喝光。 最佳食物配搭:任何煮法的肉類,例如 今晚所吃的串燒雞肉和牛肉

Christie chan WTHK’s Editor 25 winetimeshk.com WTHK編輯


Hong Kong Sevens 2015:

Another Weekend of Madness Ahead 香港國際七人 欖球賽2015: 預備上演瘋狂一周

Text by Ali Nicol Images: HKRFU & PSI 譯文:Christie Chan

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A

nother year has just flown by and it’s March already and one event everyone in the city looks forward to at this time of the year is the annual Cathay Pacific/HSBC Sevens rugby tournament. Held in the Hong Kong Government stadium in So Kon Po since its inception in 1976, it’s an excuse to let your hair down, watch some world class sports and on the whole drink as much beer, Pimms #1 and wine as is humanly possible. Recent figures suggest that there were approximately 320,000 pints of beer, 60,000 glasses of Pimms #1 and over 10,000 glasses of wine consumed over the event last year which will be held from Friday 27th to Sunday 29th March this month. That’s a staggering amount of alcohol for a venue that only holds 40,000 people with a good percentage of attendees under the age of 18 meaning the adults surely know how to have a good time! The Hong Kong Sevens has become the epitome of Asian sporting events and is arguably the premier Sevens event on the tour. Fancy dress is a must for anyone who wants to be seen and other activities over the weekend include pre-breakfast Pimms #1 drinking, trying to stay dry in the South Stand, trying to make it to midday without passing out and, of course, your ability to find your way home afterwards. For those looking for more liquid imbibing after the event,

there is the usual Louis Roederer Champagne party taking place on the grounds of the adjacent Indian Recreation Club – a great place for those who want to sip Champagne and dance the night away until the wee-small hours of the morning. Tickets for the Louis Roderer Champagne tent can be bought online through the organisers Ironmonger Events at www.ironmongerevents. com Last year’s winners New Zealand will be looking to retain their crown and win the event for a staggering 11th time – although Fiji have won the sevens here in Hong Kong 12 times already so look out for fireworks before the Sunday matches are completed. Perennially hated Australia will be back again but are a shadow of their former selves and will take some inspired magic to be as good as they were a couple of decades ago. Favourites England will surely be up there too but the team that everyone loves and supports, Hong Kong, will surely deliver the spirited performances they are so known for in front of their home crowd. Tickets are of course, sold out for this year’s event but you can always head down to the Sevens village at The Indian Recreation Club in So Kon Po and soak up the atmosphere and have a few bevvies! The event is also televised on Now TV Channel 634 so if staying home at watching sport is your idea of a good weekend then you are being catered to.

年又過去了,來到三月份,城中熱話必 一 然是由本月27至29日(星期五至日)舉行 的國泰航空/滙豐香港國際七人欖球賽。這項 體育盛事自1976年起,每年於香港大球場舉 行,不單讓球迷一睹世界級的競技運動,更讓 觀眾盡情暢飲各款啤酒、Pimms #1(以氈酒為 主的烈酒)和葡萄酒。

據最新數據顯示,到場觀賞賽事的觀眾三天 內共耗掉320,000品脱(pint)啤酒、60,000杯 Pimms #1,以及10,000杯葡萄酒。球場只能 容納40,000人,再減去未成年的觀眾,可想 而知成年觀眾的耗酒量是多麼驚為天人,也能 說他們懂得「尋開心」吧! 香港國際七人欖球賽可謂亞洲體育賽事的焦 點,也算得上是整個巡迴賽最重要的一站。想 捕捉鎂光燈的觀眾,必定會穿上奇裝異服吸引 眼球,此外還有各式各樣、趣味十足的活動舉 行,包括早餐前競飲Pimms #1、在南看台上 保持「乾身」、中午前仍然清醒不醉倒,以及 賽事結束後找得到路回家。 不想派對就這麼完結,你可於賽事結束後到 鄰近的印度遊樂會,參與Louis Roederer香 檳派對──最適合喜愛喝香檳而又想「跳舞跳 天光」的你。此派對由Ironmonger Events舉 辦,可於www.ironmongerevents.com網上 訂購入場劵。 紐西蘭隊為去年度的勝出隊伍,相信今年將奮 力爭取衛冕,勇闖第11次奪冠的高峰,然而 斐濟隊已在香港站贏得12次冠軍,兩隊實力 旗鼓相當,賽果將於周日賽事完結後揭盅,令 人拭目以待。常被喝倒采的澳洲隊還未走出慘 敗的陰霾,或許需借助神奇力量,才可回復到 幾年前的水平;而受眾人喜愛的英國隊也是參 賽隊伍之一,但最廣為觀眾支持和喜愛的隊 伍,始終還是香港隊,他們定會為本地粉絲力 爭好表現。 一如以往,今年賽事門劵早已售清光,但你總 可以到印度遊樂會的七人欖球村大喝特喝,感 受一下歡樂派對氣氛!Now寬頻電視將於634 頻道直播香港國際七人欖球賽,使你也可於周 末安坐家中欣賞到精彩賽事。 winetimeshk.com 27


Piedmont 皮埃蒙特

Region: 地區 Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Red: Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera White: Arneis, Moscato

Top Producers: Marchesi di Barolo, Domenico Clerico, 著名酒莊 Luca Vietti, G.D. Vajra, Gaja, La Spinetta, Albino Rocca

Trentino-Alto Adige 特倫蒂諾

Region: 地區 Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Lombardy 倫巴第

Region: 地區 Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Red: Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir White: Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Verdicchio

Top Producers: Ca’ Del Bosco, Podere San Giorgio, 著名酒莊 Azienda Agricola Bisi

Red: Pinot Noir White: Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Gewurztraminer Region: 地區

Top Producers: Ferrari, Alois Lageder, Elena Walch, 著名酒莊 Cavit

Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Red: Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella White: Glera, Gargenega

Top Producers: Marchesi di Barolo, Domenico Clerico, 著名酒莊 Luca Vietti, G.D. Vajra, Gaja, La Spinetta, Albino Rocca

Tuscany 托斯卡納

Region: 地區

Veneto 威尼托

Red: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc White: Trebbiano, Vermentino

Top Producers: Marchesi Antinori, Casa Emma, Ruffino, 著名酒莊 Marchesi di Frescobaldi, Tenuta San Guido, Cecchi, Banfi

Umbria 翁布里亞

Region: 地區 Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Emilia Romagna 艾米利亞-羅馬涅

Region: 地區 Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Red: Lambrusco, Sangiovese White: Malvasia, Trebbiano

Top Producers: Medici Ermete, Tre Monti, Casali 著名酒莊

Red: Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Cabernet Sauvignon White: Grachetto, Trebbiano Region: 地區

Top Producers: Arnaldo Caprai, Cantina Bartolini, Tenuta 著名酒莊 San Lorenzo, Casa Vinicola Bigi

Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種 Region: 地區 Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Marche 馬爾凱 Red: Montepulciano, Lacrima White: Verdicchio, Trebbiano

Top Producers: Marotti Campi, Umani Ronchi, Zaccagni著名酒莊 ni, Bisci, Fiorini

Sardinia 撒丁島 Red: Cannonau, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvigon White: Vermentino, Malvasia, Moscato

Top Producers: Pala, Giovanni Cherchi, Cantina del 著名酒莊 Vermentino Monti

Region: 地區 Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Sicily 西西里島 Red: Nero d’Avola White: Grillo, Inzolia

Top Producers: Donnafugata, Planeta, Fuedo Principe di 著名酒莊 Butera, Spadafora, Cusumano

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Region: 地區 Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Abruzzo 阿布魯佐 Red: Montepulciano, Sangiovese White: Trebbiano

Top Producers: Vini Farnese, Emidio Pepe, Canaletto, 著名酒莊 Avignonesi

Region: 地區 Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Puglia 普利亞 Red: Primitivo, Negroamaro White: Chardonnay

Top Producers: Schola Sarmenti, Tormaresca, Santi 著名酒莊 Dimitri

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TOP 10

Wine s il Cockta

十大 葡萄酒特飲

Moscato Margarita (Sweet Little Mexican) Bucks Fizz (Jolly Good Show old chap!)

Ingredients: 6oz Moscato Wine 10 Limes (squeezed) Ice Place the wine, freshly squeezed lime juice and ice into the blender and blend until smooth. Serve in a margarita glass with a sugar rim. Garnish with a wedge of lime. Moscato Margarita: We all love a good frozen Margarita at any time of the year right? Well, instead of using the traditional tequila – which will, by the end of the night knock your socks off – then you can substitute the liquor for something sweet and slightly sparkling such as Moscato. The wine itself is usually slightly sparkling which will of course disappear when you blend it but the sweetness of the wine will remain making a beautifully refreshing summer cocktail. Why not making your next favourite summer drink?

材料: 6安士Moscato氣泡酒 10個青檸(榨汁) 冰塊 把葡萄酒、鮮榨青檸汁 及冰塊放到攪拌機中, 直至所有冰塊全碎。把 Margarita酒杯的杯邊沾 滿砂糖,然後倒入特飲於 杯中,以扇形青檸片作裝 飾。 Moscato Margarita:所 有人任何時候也喜愛喝上 一杯Margarita吧?但當中 的龍舌蘭酒最後可能會使 你酩酊大醉,而轉用微甜 的Moscato便可避免這情 況。雖然Moscato本身帶 有少量氣泡,但經過攪拌 機攪拌後,氣泡當然會全 部消散,然而當中的甜味 依然。有理由不調製這種 款口感清爽,適合夏日飲 用的葡萄酒特飲嗎?

Ingredients: 150ml Chilled Champagne 50ml Orange Juice It couldn’t be simpler to make! Mix three parts of your favourite Champagne to one part of Orange juice! Serve in a Champagne flute. Bucks Fizz: The drink is named after Buck’s Club in London and was invented as an excuse to be able to drink alcohol early in the day (good old Brits!!) It was conceived in 1921 by bartender called McGarry. The drink is usually served at weddings as the addition of orange juice makes it a more quaffable drink without getting too drunk – but mostly it is served as a morning brunch drink that works well as a “Hair of the Dog” (a drink that reduces the effects of a hangover). Honestly, we would not recommend using great Champagne in this cocktail….it’s just a waste really! But a great breakfast drink none-the-less.

材料: 150毫升已冷藏的香檳 50毫升橙汁 不可能有比Bucks Fizz更 易調製的葡萄酒特飲吧! 於香檳杯倒入四分三杯香 檳,以及四分一杯橙汁便 成。 Bucks Fizz:這葡萄酒特 飲的名字由來源於1921年 的倫敦紳士俱樂部Buck’s Club,有說當時的英國人 想在白天喝酒,於是酒保 McGarr y便調製出Bucks Fizz。(以前的英國人真 有頭腦!)由於加入了橙 汁,使人可暢飲同時也不 會太易喝醉,因此人們常 於婚禮上以這特飲宴客。 不過,更多人視它為早午 餐的飲料,也將它當作與 「Hair of the Dog」差 不多的解酒飲品。我們不 建議以一枝優質香檳去調 製這特飲,這未免太浪費 了!但它無疑是宜於早上 喝的特飲。 winetimeshk.com 31


Top 10 Wine Cocktails Sangria (Sexy Spanish)

Ingredients: 1 bottle Spanish Red Wine ½ Cup Brandy ½ Cup Orange Juice 1 tablespoon Sugar 1 Orange thinly sliced 1 Lemon thinly sliced 1 Lime Thinly Sliced 1 Apple Chopped 1 Cup Soda Water / Sprite Combine wine, Brandy and orange juice in a jug and add in sugar until it dissolves. Add orange, lemon and lime slices. Refrigerate until cold for about 1 hour then add soda / sprite and serve in a glass over ice. Sangria: A typical drink from Spain or Portugal usually served in 1 litre pitchers at informal social gatherings and is most typically drunk during the summer months. Of course, there are plenty of different variations of the drink but the above traditional recipe is the original. The good thing about Sangria is that you do not need to use expensive, high quality wine as the flavours of all the ingredients are all combined to make a refreshing red wine based summer wine cocktail. This is often served in Hong Kong at beach restaurants and can be found in all Spanish restaurants around the city. 32 winetimeshk.com

Kir (Burgundy, but not as we know it!)

材料: 1枝西班牙紅酒 ½ 杯白蘭地 ½ 鮮橙汁 1湯匙糖 1個橙(幼身切片) 1個檸檬(幼身切片) 1個青檸(幼身切片) 1個蘋果(切粒) 1杯梳打水或雪碧

Ingredients: 3oz White Wine 1/3oz Crème de Cassis (a sweet, dark red liqueur made from blackcurrants)

將葡萄酒、白蘭地及橙汁 倒進玻璃壺中,加入糖, 攬拌至糖溶掉。加入香橙 片、檸檬片及青檸片。雪 藏大約一小時後,加入梳 打或雪碧。倒進杯中後加 入冰塊,即可享用。

Kir: This wine cocktail originates from the Burgundy region of France where the original wine used in this cocktail was Bourgogne Aligote – a lesser known (but not quality) wine from the Burgundy region – but these days many prefer the cocktail from a more commercial grape such as Chardonnay. The drink is named after Felix Kir the mayor of Dijon who passed in 1968 who popularised the drink after World War Two by offering it to visiting dignitaries. Crème de Cassis is also a local product from the region making it a particular regional drink from this area of Burgundy. It has been considered that Felix Kir invented the drink during an “off vintage” year where the wines were not up to suitable quality and needed something to make them more palatable.

Sangria:源自西班牙或 葡萄牙的特飲,慣常份量 為一公升,從玻璃壺中倒 出特飲。人們通常於非正 式場合上飲用Sangria, 而且多於夏天飲用。當 然,Sangria的食譜多不勝 數,而以上的便是最傳統 正宗的調法。調製Sangria 時,不需用上高級貴價的 紅酒,當混合所有材料之 後,它會成為以紅酒為主 的清新特飲。在香港,不 少海灘旁的餐廳及西班牙 菜餐廳也有提供Sangria為 飲品。

In a wine glass or a Champagne flute add the Crème de Cassis (Blackcurrant liqueur) then pour the white wine over the top and stir.

材料: 3安士白酒 3安士Crème de Cassis (深紅味甜以黑加侖子釀造 的酒) 於酒杯或香檳杯中倒入 Crème de Cassis,然後再 倒入白酒,攪拌而成。 Kir:這款葡萄酒特飲源自 法國勃艮地,原本用上的 葡萄酒為產自該區的Bourgogne Aligote白酒(較少 人認識),但現在比較多人 以大眾化的Chardonnay 白酒來調製。前法國狄戎 市長Felix Kir於第二次世 界大戰後,以這款特飲招 待政要,使其因而聞名, 所以這特飲名稱以他的名 字命名(他於1968年離世) 。Crème de Cassis同樣產 自該區,因此它在勃艮地 是種甚具代表性的飲料。 據說,Felix Kir為了使一枝 過於陳年的白酒變得「可 入口」,因而創作出這種 特飲。


十大葡萄酒特飲 Ginger Red Wine (Thanks Martha!)

Ingredients: 1/3 Cup Pinot Noir 1/3 Cup Ginger Ale Dash Kirsch (Cherry Brandy) Fill a highball glass with ice and add to it the Pinot Noir, Ginger Ale and dash of Kirsch. Stir to combine the flavours in the glass and add a garnish of Rosemary – for colour more than everything but fresh Rosemary can add a refreshing twist to the cocktail. Ginger Red Wine: A great way to spruce up that dull American Pinot Noir! Honestly, we stole this recipe from Martha Stewart and we have to wonder how she came up with a drink that crucifies arguably one of the greatest styles of wine in the world. Maybe it was concocted as a “Jail House Hooch” whilst she was serving her time. The addition of ginger to both red and white wine can add a nice twist to a wine and give it a little ‘sweet and sour’ nature, whilst the Rosemary gives a herbaceous hint that really works well with a sunny day. Of course, a much better drink for the summer afternoons sitting out on the patio, it’s a great way of getting rid of some old wine that needs perking up – but we’re pretty sure we won’t be seeing anyone in Hong Kong adding ginger ale to their DRC wines anytime soon!

材料: 1/3杯Pinot Noir紅酒 1/3杯薑啤 Dash Kirsch(櫻桃味白蘭地) 於高身玻璃杯倒入冰塊, 加入Pinot Noir紅酒、薑 啤及Dash Kirsch,拌勻後 加入迷迭香草作裝飾。加 入迷迭香草不只加了點顏 色,更為飲料增添新鮮香 草的清新感。 Ginger Red Wine:把不好 喝的美國Pinot Noir紅酒變 得較好喝之妙法!不瞞讀 者,我們從美國富商與著 名專欄作家Martha Stewart偷來這食譜,不過我們 猜不透她的想法,為何以 本身好喝的Pinot Noir紅 酒來調製飲料。或許她在 獄中度日時炮製出這食譜 吧。在紅酒或白酒中加入 薑啤,可使其味道變得酸 酸甜甜,而加入迷迭香草 則如加入了清新的香氣, 最適合於陽光普照的夏天 飲用。雖然調製這特飲是 清光舊酒的好方法,但在 香港不太可能有人會把薑 啤倒進DRC葡萄酒當中飲 用。

Spritzer (Oh mum, get into the new Millennium)

Ingredients: 3oz Aromatic White Wine (Riesling, Gewurztraminer for example) 1 oz Soda Water / Sprite / Sparkling Water Ice In a wine glass or highball glass full of ice, add the wine together with the soda and stir gently to incorporate the flavours. Add a lemon twist for decoration. Spritzer: Quite possibly the quintessential drink for ladies in pubs in England in the 1980’s the Spritzer is a great way to enjoy the flavours of an aromatic white wine without the threat of total drunkenness. We remember our mother drinking copious amounts of this – constantly adding more soda as dad devoured the bottle of wine itself – during the 1980’s and in fact it is a great way to introduce your kids to the flavours and nuances of a wine without actually giving them full strength wine itself. This is a common practice in countries such as the UK, Germany and France. Actually, the name Spritzer is derived from the German / Austrian word “Spritzen” where the drink is still very popular to this day. These days it is just as easy to find ready-made Spritzers in cans or bottles in your local convenience store.

材料: 3安士香氣濃郁的白酒 (如Riesling和Gewurztraminer) 1安士梳打水/雪碧/有氣礦 泉水 捲狀檸檬皮 於酒杯或高身玻璃杯中倒 滿冰塊,加入白酒及梳 打,輕輕攪拌後加入捲狀 檸檬皮作裝飾。 Spritzer:這葡萄酒特飲 具香氣,而且容易入喉, 喝多了也不需擔心會完全 醉倒,因此極受英國80 年代的女士歡迎,幾乎是 她們到酒吧的必點飲料。 記得我們的母親也曾喝上 一杯又一杯的Spritzer, 而且不斷於杯中倒入更多 的汽水,因為整枝酒都被 父親喝光了。當時不少英 國、德國及法國家庭,父 母也會讓自己的小孩喝這 種特飲,讓他們嚐到酒的 味道,但又不會過於強 烈。Spritzer的名字由來 就是源於德文或奧地利文 「Spritzen」,今天它依 然深受這些地區的人所喜 愛。現在,你可在超市或 便利店買到現成枝裝或罐 裝的Spritzer,讓你「慳水 慳力」便享受到這可口的 特飲。 winetimeshk.com 33


Top 10 Wine Cocktails Ice Wine Martini (Canadian Maple Chugger) Sherry Sparkler (Jerez Pearl Necklace)

Ingredients: 1oz Canadian Ice Wine 2oz Vodka Combine both ingredients in a Martini glass and, unlike Mr. James Bond “007” this Martini is stirred and not shaken! The Ice Wine gives the Vodka a little sweetness and takes the edge off the strong liquor flavours. Ice Wine Martini: Most likely not conceived in Canada this Martini is more of a New York cocktail that incorporates some of the most expensive wines in the world with a popular classic drink that has seen unparalleled popularity in the last decades. So, it’s time to ditch the Dirty Martini’s and go for something a little more exotic (hell, there’s plenty of Brine in the Harbour if you just want a salty drink with alcohol). Unlike the regular Martini we would not suggest killing the subtle sweetness of the Ice Wine by dropping a salty olive in the glass so you could garnish with something cool like a frozen grape – or if you have them, a few grapes that have been affected by botrytis to add a little more of a sugar-kick!

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材料: 1安士加拿大冰酒 2安士伏特加 把兩種酒倒進馬天尼酒杯 中,然後輕輕拌勻──與詹 士邦平常喝的馬天尼不一 樣,這特飲不需被搖勻! 冰酒為伏特加帶點甜,使 它喝起來沒那麼「劥」( 音:keng)。 Ice Wine Martini:這特 飲大概並非源於加拿大, 它比較像是來自紐約的雞 尾酒,由世界上其中一種 最昂貴的葡萄酒,以及不 知為何近十年來極為熱門 的烈酒混合而成。還在喝 Dirty Martini?轉而喝較 特別的冰酒馬天尼吧!( 如果你只想喝一杯鹹味的 雞尾酒,其實維港裏有滿 滿的海水。)調製馬天尼一 般會加入一顆橄欖作為裝 飾,但我們不建議你也把 它加到冰酒馬天尼中,因 為橄欖的鹹與冰酒的甜不 太配合。你可選用一顆冷 凍結冰的葡萄作為橄欖的 代替品,如果可以的話, 也可加入幾顆灰葡萄(被酵 母菌感染的葡萄),為這特 飲打扮之餘,更能再添點 甜味。

Ingredients: 4oz Spanish Cava 1oz Medium Dry Sherry Add the Spanish sparkling wine Cava to a Champagne flute and top with the medium dry Sherry. Lift glass to lips, indulge! Sherry Sparkler: Who can resist the lovely dancing bubbles of a dry Cava from Spain whose bubbles rise from the base of the glass like a shimmering pearl from the bottom of the ocean? Combine this effervescence with the nutty features of Sherry and you have one hell of a flavoursome cocktail! Sherry has seen a decline in recent decades as it seems to be perceived as something your “old smelly aunt” might drink – but with the incorporation of it into modern day cocktails it has seen a small revival amongst the younger generation of cocktail drinkers. Drink this cocktail though dinner as both ingredients are just meant for Spanish food – and the drink slips down so easily it will be impossible to just have one!

材料: 4安士西班牙Cava氣泡酒 1安士中等乾澀的雪利酒 把西班牙Cava氣泡酒倒入 香檳杯中,之後倒入雪利 酒。當酒杯碰到嘴唇時, 你便可以盡情放縱! Sherry Sparkler:誰能抗 拒Cava酒中微微跳動的氣 泡?從杯底升上來的氣泡 閃閃發亮,怎會不令人動 容?只是簡單地將Cava 氣泡酒加到帶點瘋狂的雪 利酒中,便成為美味可 口的葡萄酒特飲!近十幾 年來,雪利酒似乎不太入 流,給人的感覺就像身上 有「味道」的老阿姨才會 喝那樣,不過現時不少年 輕人喜歡喝雞尾酒,而雪 利酒可用作調製雞尾酒, 因此可視為再度復興。你 可在吃西班牙菜時喝這種 葡萄酒特飲,兩者除了味 道配合外,其容易入喉的 特質更令你不只想喝一杯 呢!


十大葡萄酒特飲 White Port and Tonic (Portuguese Party Starter) Calimocho/Kalimotxo (Mainland Mule)

Ingredients: 2oz White Port 4oz Tonic Water Orange slice or lemon slice In a highball glass full of ice add the Tonic Water first and then the white Port. It is important that you use a decent Tonic water (the regular old Schweppes just does not cut the mustard here). Stir gently to incorporate the flavours and add the orange or lemon slice to garnish…then it’s time to get this party started! White Port and Tonic: The drink originates from Portugal –the home of Port – as one would expect and is generally used as an aperitif during the winter months but it can be drunk all year round because of it’s refreshing nature. Not unlike the British Gin and Tonic, this can actually be drunk all night long and is a nice alternative to those who do not like to drink high-alcohol spirits. It’s one of those styles of cocktails that stimulates the palate making it a great pre-dinner drink and is also great with fatty finger food such as Iberico ham, olives and marinated anchovies. Rather like the “Spritzer” this is also a good way to introduce novice drinkers to the world of Port – a place that certainly should be explored by all wine lovers on the planet.

材料: 2安士白砵酒 4安士湯力水 橙或檸檬(切片) 於高身玻璃杯中倒滿冰 塊,先加入湯力水,然後 加入白砵酒。要注意的 是,調製這特飲要用上好 的湯力(常用而普通的玉泉 湯力水也就不夠好)。輕輕 拌勻後加入橙或檸檬片作 裝飾,準備在派對上大派 用場! White Port and Tonic: 與砵酒一樣,這特飲源自 葡萄牙,是種冬季飲用的 開胃飲料,不過由於其味 道清新,因此也適合於一 年四季任何時候飲用。它 跟英式Gin Tonic沒甚麼 差別,同樣可以讓你整晚 暢飲,而白砵酒的酒精成 分卻較低,所以對不喜歡 烈酒的人來說,它是不錯 的代替品。它也是很好的 餐前飲品,可以令人食慾 大增,也適合配以肥膩食 物飲用,例如西班牙風乾 火腿、橄欖和醃魚。它與 Spritzer也有着同樣效用, 可以當作認識砵酒的入門 級飲料,同時也可認識更 多葡萄牙的葡萄酒!

Ingredients: Red Wine Coca Cola Ice

材料: 紅酒 可樂 冰塊

Fill a highball glass with plenty of ice and into the glass half fill with coca cola. Fill the remaining of the glass with red wine – viola! A simple cocktail of Spanish origins that has been exported to many other countries around the world that like a bit of sweetness to their red wine.

於高身玻璃杯倒入大量冰 塊,然後倒入半杯可樂、 半杯紅酒──完成!就是這 麼簡單便可調製出這款源 自西班牙的葡萄酒特飲, 它受到世界各地的人所喜 愛,大概人人也喜歡為紅 酒加上一點甜吧。

Calimocho: So it’s not only our Mainland friends across the border that like to add coca cola to their red wine, it has been done for decades. In the 1970’s it was called “poor man’s Cuba Libre” (a cocktail made of cola, lime and rum) from where it originated in the Spanish region of the Basque Country. These days it is a popular drink in Bosnia, Serbia, Macedonia, Croatia and Slovenia but can also be found as far away as Mozambique, South Africa and Korea. Probably a great way of getting rid of excess red wine or just as a punch at a party – we really only see this cocktail working in the Mainland…so pass the Lafite please!

Calimocho:其實不只居 於內陸的朋友,喜歡把可 樂加到紅酒中一同飲用。 早在70年代,西班牙巴斯 克地區的人最先調出這款 葡萄酒特飲,並把它稱為 「窮人的Cuba Libre」( 另一款以可樂、青檸及冧 酒調製的雞尾酒)。到了今 天,它在波斯尼亞、塞爾 維亞、馬其頓、克羅地亞 及斯洛文尼亞成為廣受歡 迎的飲料,同時也不難在 遠洋如莫桑比克、南非及 韓國找到它。調製這款特 飲可能是喝剩紅酒的最佳 解決辦法,也可當作派對 飲料,不過說到底,它還 是在內陸較受歡迎……所以 先拿來一枝Lafite!

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Talking Zinfandel with Pete Seghesio

與Pete Seghesio大談Zinfandel葡萄 Text by Ali Nicol

譯文:Christie Chan

Z

infandel has been the cornerstone of Californian viticulture since the mid 1800’s as it was originally thought to be an indigenous Californian grape variety – primarily for the reason that as it did not hail from France, there was some confusion as to where it actually came from. After decades of research led by many viticulturalists and scientists, the Zinfandel grape was found to have actually originated from Croatia; although it is genetically the same as the Primitivo grape that is indigenous to the Puglia region of Southern Italy.

legendary Seghesio Family Vineyards who have been growing and crafting Zinfandel wines since the late 1800’s. In fact, the Seghesio family has been growing Zinfandel in northern Sonoma for 120 years ever since Edoardo Seghesio left the family home in Piedmont, Italy to start a new life in America in 1886. In 1895 Edoardo and his wife Angela Vasconi bought 56 acres of land that they thought ideal for a vineyard and in the same year planted the “Home Ranch” vineyard which has become the lifeblood of their Zinfandel production and still is to this day.

Zinfandel is best grown in cool coastal locations which makes the west coast of California an ideal place for the grape to flourish. The grape has all but made California home and the majority of people in the region have adopted it as their own. All told, a total of 10% of vineyard area in California is planted with Zinfandel and can boast some of the oldest vines in the world.

The family specialise in predominantly Italian grape varietals growing Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero and Barbera for the reds alongside Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano and Malvasia for the whites. They do also make wines from the Pinot Noir, Grenache and Petite Syrah grapes too. These days, brothers Ted and Pete Seghesio head up the business now with Ted being the winemaker and Pete the world-wide ambassador for the wines.

It is a versatile varietal that makes rich, robust red wines with nuances of raspberry, blackberry, cherry, plum, spice and black pepper. It is a vigorous and hardy grape varietal yet never gained the traction or international recognition as its more illustrious red cousins such as Shiraz or Cabernet. Ideally a wine that suits dining rather than drinking alone, the versatility of Zinfandel makes it the perfect wine to pair with anything from a simple burger to a lovely premium piece of steak. It’s hard to tell if there are any dedicated Zinfandel followers in Hong Kong but there are some great wines available in the city crafted from the grape. One such winery is the 36 winetimeshk.com

Wine Times caught up with Pete Seghesio on his recent trip to the city so we put some questions to him about his Zinfandel, after all, who best to hear from about this Californian legend than the man from a family who have specialised in the grape for well over a century? Seghesio wines are available in Hong Kong from Via Pacifica Selections. More information can be found at www.viapacifica.com for the wines available in the city or you can contact Managing Director Wayne Weber on +852 6162 1023 or by email on ww@viapacifica.com

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infandel葡萄品種就如美國加州葡萄種 植中的基石一樣,自19世紀中便在此尋 到它的蹤跡,因此一直被視為加州的原 生葡萄品種,其主要原因為它並非來自法國, 不過亦有人對其真正原產地成疑。經過葡萄種 植學家及科學家的研究,最終發現Zinfandel 葡萄源於克羅地亞,但其基因卻與原生於意大 利南部普利亞地區(Puglia)的Primitivo葡萄一 樣。 Zinfandel葡萄最適合於氣候清涼的地區生 長,加州西岸正正是它萌生的理想地區,雖然 這種葡萄能於別處生長,但它卻偏偏視加州為 「家」,而大部分當地人也視它為當地獨有的 葡萄品種。全加州的葡萄園中,有10%的耕地 也種植着Zinfandel葡萄,可與世界上最古老 的葡萄品種比擬。 這種葡萄可釀造出酒體重而富力量的紅酒,並 帶有木莓、黑莓、櫻桃、李子,以及辛香料和 黑胡椒的香氣。比起出眾的Shiraz或Cabernet姊妹紅酒葡萄,這種生長茂盛而生命力強 的葡萄品種甚少得到世人認同與賞識。它「通 用百搭」的特質令它成為理想的餐酒,可輕易 配上任何食物,簡單如一個漢堡以至一塊優質 牛扒也可。 雖不知道香港有否對Zinfandel情有獨鍾的愛 酒者,但城中卻有不少以這種葡萄釀造的美 酒,其中一個釀造Zinfandel紅酒的酒莊, 就是傳奇釀酒世家Seghesio Family Vineyards。這家族酒莊自19世紀末便開始以 Zinfandel葡萄釀酒,事實上,自從家族成 員Edoardo Seghesio於1886年離開意大利 皮埃蒙特(Piedmont)遷居美國後,他們在近


120年來一直於加州索諾馬(Sonoma)北部種植並釀造 Zinfandel。Edoardo與妻子Angela Vasconi於1895年買 下佔地56公頃的農田,打算開墾葡萄園,並於同年開始 種植「Home Ranch」(住宅牧場)葡萄園,自始成為生產 釀造Zinfandel的命脈,時至今天依然如是。 Seghesio酒莊的葡萄酒現於酒零售商Pacifica Selections有售,詳情請瀏覽www.viapacifica.com,或與總 經理Wayne Weber聯絡,電話:+852 6162 1023;電 郵:ww@viapacifica.com。 WTHK: What makes Sonoma County such a hospitable region for growing Zinfandel? 為甚麼索諾馬十分適合種植Zinfandel葡萄? PS: The Alaskan current, keeping our pacific waters close to 50 degrees (Fahrenheit) ensures that we have nightly cooling down to the 48 - 52 degree (Fahrenheit) mark during the growing season. This helps keep natural acidity high. In other parts of the state this cooling does not occur and Zinfandel will dehydrate early. When this happens you see lower acids and much higher sugars as those raisin style grapes release more sugar during fermentation. I view Zinfandel much like Pinot Noir. It is very delicate and needs to avoid large heat spikes. The Pacific Ocean causes the morning fog which helps keep daytime temperatures from getting so high. This makes us much different than Napa, but also very, very different from other regions such as Lodi and Paso Robles.

WTHK: “Zinfandel is effectively Primitivo”. Do you agree? And please elaborate a little. 你認同「Zinfandel就等如Primitivo」嗎?可以解釋一下 嗎? PS: While genetically the same; we see the cluster slightly less full. It also has more black fruit and higher natural acidity. PS:兩種葡萄的基因相同,但我們看到Zinfandel的葡萄 串較Primitivo疏落,同時也有着較多黑果味和較高的天 然酸度。 WTHK: Would you say Zinfandel is a great “food Wine” and if so, what are the classic pairings to go with your wines? 你會稱Zinfandel為上好的餐酒嗎?如果會,與美食的經 典配搭是甚麼? PS: Yes, Zinfandel makes for a great food wine and pairs exceptionally well with simple foods such as salami, sausage and grilled meats. PS:是的,Zinfandel確是上好的餐酒,當中最出眾的配 搭為刺身、香腸和烤肉。

PS:阿拉斯加洋流使酒莊一帶的太平洋水域,溫度保持 在(華氏)50度左右,令此區域於葡萄生長季節期時,晚上 氣溫能降至(華氏)48至52度。這樣的氣候令Zinfandel葡 萄的天然酸度高,而在美國其他地區卻不會出現同樣的 降溫情況,那便會使Zinfandel的水份早被抽乾。如果情 況是這樣的話,葡萄的酸度會變得較低而甜度較高,更 會於發酵時釋出更多糖分。我眼中的Zinfandel與Pinot Noir差不多;它纖弱的特質使它無法抵禦高溫,而太平 洋為這區帶來晨霧,使白天溫度升幅不大。這形成了我 們這產區與納帕谷(Napa Valley)的區別,同時也與洛迪 (Lodi)和帕索羅布爾(Paso Robles)產區存在很大差異。 WTHK: Would you consider Zinfandel as an American grape these days as it seems you have adopted it as your own? 經過多年來種植及釀造Zinfandel,你認為它是屬於美國 的葡萄品種嗎? PS: No place else in the world has the plantings or the range of power or structure that you seen in Zinfandels from Sonoma. To me it is the quintessential grape of California. Did you know that actually 90% of Sonoma and Napa was planted to Zinfandel in 1890? PS:全世界沒有一個地方的Zinfandel可與索諾馬的相 比,不論其出產數量或層次結構。於我而言,它是加州 典型的葡萄品種。你知道在1890年時,索諾馬及納帕谷 超過90%的葡萄園也是種植Zinfandel的嗎? WTHK: You are very heavily weighted towards Italian varietals; why is that? 為何特別偏重源自意大利的葡萄品種? PS: Italian varietals are simply just very well suited to the environment in Sonoma. PS:原因簡單地只在於氣候環境,它們都十分適合在索 諾馬生長。 winetimeshk.com 37


T

he third edition of the Longines Hong Kong Masters took place in last month at Hong Kong’s Asia World Expo with a dazzling display of equestrian poise during three days of international world class show jumping. Wine Times HK spent an evening there with renowned Champagne house Barons Philippe de Rothschild during a reception cocktail party that was co-hosted by importer ASC Fine Wines. Barons de Rothschild Champagne CEO Frederic Mairesse also flew in from France for the event which saw an eclectic mix of horse and Champagne lovers to the prestigious event. Guests were served the range of Barons de Rothschild Champagne throughout the evening - the Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs, Rosé and Brut - as the best show jumpers in the world gracefully navigated the international course in a bid to mark their place in the world of equestrian legend. After the Champagne cocktail we were treated to a VIP dinner at the VIP Masters Club alongside the main competition ring where two Star Michelin Chef Yves Mattagne cooked up a delightful three course meal of Foie Gras with Citrus 38 winetimeshk.com

Chutney, Roasted Black Cod with Teriyaki Asparagus and Madagascar Vanilla Ice Cream with Spiced Infused Pineapple. Wines over dinner were two Bordeaux wines from Advini; Antoine Moueix Bordeaux Blanc 2012 and Chateau d’Hanteillan Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois 2012, the former paired with the Foie Gras appetiser and the red paired with the Cod. During the dinner and throughout the three days of events, the world’s 25 best riders and their horses competed in CSI 5* classes, striving to become champions in breathtaking competitions for a total prize money of USD$1 million. Since the 2008 Olympic Games (where the equestrian events were held in the city) the interest for show jumping has been growing fast in popularity. The high attendance rate of the Longines Hong Kong Masters in 2013 and 2014 also denotes the passion the Hong Kong and the international community expresses for this sport and with another successful event in 2015 we hope to see it return for the fourth time in 2016!

琴表香港馬術大師賽2015」上月於 「浪 亞洲國際博覽館舉行並且經已完滿結 束,各頂尖騎師於賽上展示了世界級馬術,策

騎賽駒跨過一個又一個的障礙,教人拍案叫 絕。 在賽事的招待酒會上,WTHK目擊著名香檳 品牌Barons Philippe de Rothschild的總裁 Frederic Mairesse特地從法國來到香港現 身會場,參與這個與品牌代理商ASC Fine Wines合辦的盛會。與會者當晚有機會嚐 到多款不同的Barons de Rothschild香檳, 當中包括Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs、Rosé及Brut,同時也欣賞到騎師互 相競逐殊榮時的精彩表演。 招待酒會結束過後,我們也被邀出席貴賓晚 宴,由米芝蓮兩星級大廚Yves Mattagne為 貴賓們烹煮三道菜,包括香煎鵝肝配柑橘酸辣 醬、烤黑鱈魚配照燒蘆筍,以及馬達加斯雲呢 拿雪糕配香料菠蘿,貴賓們可置身於賽圈旁的 VIP Masters Club邊享美食,邊觀賞賽事。 晚宴餐酒均為產自法國波爾多Advini酒莊 的葡萄酒,分別是Antoine Moueix Bordeaux Blanc 2012和Chateau d’Hanteillan Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois 2012。前者配 搭前菜鵝肝享用,而後者則配搭主菜黑鱈魚。 一連舉行三天的賽事集結了全球25位頂尖騎 師及其賽駒,於獲授予CSI 5*(五星級)資格的 國際馬術障礙賽上,共同競逐總金額高達100 萬美元的獎金。自2008年北京奧運起(當中的 馬術賽事於香港進行),香港人對馬術障礙賽 更感興趣,更有不少人曾參與前年及去年的浪 琴表香港馬術大師賽。隨着本年度的賽事完美 落幕,我們期待觀賞來年的第四度來港舉行的 馬術賽事!


Longines Hong Kong Masters 浪琴表香港馬術大師賽2015

winetimeshk.com 39


Chef Chat with Stephy 當Stephy遇上主廚

Text by Stephy Poon Photography by Christie Chan

撰文:Stephy Poon 攝影:Christie Chan

H

ow was everyone’s Chinese New Year? Did you try the turnip cake recipe taught by Chef Grace for our Feb issue? How did it taste with the home-made plum wine? I hope everyone had a wonderful CNY holiday with a lot of traditional Chinese food, nice wines and Lai-see pockets (pocket money)! After all these oily and heavy foods during CNY plus chocolates and all kinds of sweet things on Valentine’s day, it’s time for our body to have a little break with something light and fresh to get March started. Spring is definitely a season that reminds us to get rid of heavy food, as well as to cleanse our body by having some refreshing food before summer comes. This month, Pan Li, Head Chef of The Coterie is going to teach our Wine Times HK’s readers to make Ballotine of Monkfish, wrapped in 36 months Iberico Ham with Romesco Sauce, a traditional French dish that would give a little surprise to you and your guests! 40 winetimeshk.com

March’s Chef: Pan Li, Head Chef of The Coterie Dish-to-teach: Ballotine of Monkfish wrapped in 36 months Iberico Ham with Romesco Sauce Why Ballotine? Chef Pan told us, “Actually, ballotine is a traditional French dish. In French it means parcel or bundle. The meat stuffing can be anything, for example, poultry or fish but it had better be boneless. It is spring season so I would like to have something fresh but also rich in flavour to get March started. Therefore I chose monkfish because its texture is a bit different, a bit like lobster; it’s tender, slightly firmer but not chewy. The monkfish itself is rather fresh and light, a perfect fish for spring. However, with the Iberico ham; it will give the fillet additional flavours. Although this dish might look complicated to cook, you can still handle it and give a little surprise to your guests!”

位的農曆新年過得怎麼樣?有沒有嘗試 各 跟着二月「煮」廚Grace所教的蘿蔔糕 食譜一展手藝?配上梅酒感覺又如何?相信大

家在剛過去的曆年假期都飲飽食醉,嚐了不少 中國傳統美食和各國佳釀,也拿到不少利是。 不過,經過一輪瘋狂放縱的大吃大喝後,三月 份也是時候給身體一個喘息的機會,減少進食 肥膩食物,選擇一些較輕盈的菜式。春季的來 臨,亦即是在提醒我們要為夏天作好準備,為 身體排毒。今期我們邀請到Pan Li,The Coterie主廚,為讀者準備「鮟鱇魚及36個月西 班牙黑毛豬火腿卷配甜椒汁」的食譜,一道可 以給予你和客人驚喜的傳統法國菜式!

3月「煮」廚:The Coterie主廚Pan Li 「煮」廚食譜:鮟鱇魚及36個月西班 牙黑毛豬火腿卷配甜椒汁 「煮」廚推介原因 主廚Pan:「其實Ballotine是法國的傳統菜 式,法語解作「小包裹」或者「卷」。肉餡材 料可任君選擇,如豬肉或雞肉,但最好選擇無 骨的。三月是春天季節,我想煮出口感比較清 爽,但味道濃郁的菜式。以鮟鱇魚作食材原因 為其質感特別,有點像龍蝦,較彈牙有咬口, 但又不韌,這種清爽的食材很適合春天食用。 另一方面,36個月西班牙黑毛豬的濃郁香味 會令這道菜式更惹味。你可能會覺得這道菜看 似複雜,其實不太難應付,還可以在宴客時給 客人們一個小驚喜,讓人覺得你很厲害呢!」

The Coterie Address: 198 Kat Hing Wai, Yuen Long 地址:尖沙咀山林道50號俊僑商業中心9B號舖

Tel: 3971 0773


Ballotine of Monkfish wrapped in 36 months Iberico Ham with Romesco Sauce 鮟鱇魚及36個月西班牙黑毛豬火腿 卷配甜椒汁

Servings: 2 2人份量

Ingredients 所需食材 Monkfish fillet 鮟鱇魚 Iberico ham 36個月西班牙黑毛豬火腿 Sea salt 海鹽 Herbs (parsley and basil) 香草 Pepper 胡椒  Garlic 蒜頭  Bell pepper 燈籠椒 Tomato 蕃茄 Shallots 葱 Chicken stock 雞湯 Olive oil 橄欖油 Butter 牛油

1 20g 20克 1 teaspoosn 1茶匙 1 teaspoosn 1茶匙 1 teaspoosn 1茶匙 1 clove 1瓣 1 1 1-2 100mL 100毫升 2 teaspoosns 2茶匙 2 teaspoons 2茶匙

Cooking Tips

Chef Pan said “If you can’t find monkfish, you can replace it with some other fish with a firmer texture like, barramundi.”

「主」廚秘訣

主廚Pan:「如果買不到鮟鱇魚,可以肉質較實的魚類 代替,如盲曹魚。」

Steps

1. Fillet the monkfish and clean off all of the membrane. Season it with salt, herbs, pepper and olive oil. 2. Place the Iberico ham on the plastic wrap, then put the monkfish fillet on top and roll on a chopping board. Tie with a string at both ends. 3. Wrap the roll with aluminum cling wrap. Steam it on a medium heat for 20 minutes. 4. Cool on a rack for 10-15 minutes. Pan-fry the ham and monkfish roll. 5. Cook in the oven for 10 minutes. 6. Prepare the Romesco sauce with tomato, bell pepper, garlic and shallot. Pan-fry the chopped garlic, shallots, tomato and bell pepper for a few minutes. Add the chicken stock and cook till all the ingredients are softened. Blend. Season with pepper and sea salt. 7. Cut the ballotine into pieces, decorate the dish and serve.

烹調步驟

1. 把鮟鱇魚清洗乾淨,去骨。放海鹽,香草,胡椒和 橄欖油調味。 2. 把黑毛豬火腿平鋪在保鮮紙上,然後放上鮟鱇魚 柳,在砧板上捲成條狀,打結紮緊頭尾。 3. 用錫紙包裹肉卷,用中火蒸20分鐘。 4. 蒸好後取出待涼10至15分鐘。把魚肉卷置於平底鑊 以牛油煎香。 5. 放入焗爐焗10分鐘。 6. 準備甜椒汁,把燈籠椒,蕃茄,葱,切粒蒜頭爆香 數分鐘,加入雞湯同煮至所有材料變軟。放入攪拌 機混合攪拌,再加入適量海鹽和胡椒調味。 7. 魚肉卷切件,裝飾擺碟,淋上甜椒汁即可享用。

Wine Pairing Recommendations 葡萄酒搭配建議 Markus Welker, Co-owner of The Coterie, said, “I know that many people would like to pair fish with Sauvignon Blanc, but this time as the dish has both fish and the Iberico ham, which has more flavor so I would like to suggest you to try the Domaine D’en Ségur 2013 Cuvée Madeleine Chardonnay. This chardonnay has the tropical oaked notes with a nice acidity finish.” The Coterie合伙人Markus Welker說:「大多數人也 習慣把魚類跟Sauvignon Blanc配搭,但今次這道菜 式有鮟鱇魚和黑毛豬火腿,比一般魚類菜式濃味,所 以我會建議嘗試與Domaine D’en Ségur 2013 Cuvée Madeleine Chardonnay配搭。這瓶Chardonnay 有着熱帶果味及橡木味,以及細膩的酸度收結。」

winetimeshk.com 41


Macau:

Home Style Portuguese – but whose home? 澳門:家庭風味葡國菜—但誰的家?

Text & Photography by Ali Nicol 攝影:Ali Nicol 譯文:Christie Chan

I

have always wanted to return to Macau’s ‘A Tasca do Luis’ as it was one of the first places I ever went with my then girlfriend (now wife) as I remember it as a quaint little place with good food and friendly service – that and being on a promise I guess always makes everything taste sweeter! Walking into A Tasca do Luis for the first time in almost a decade I had forgotten that it is decked out much like what I would expect the Portugal Football Supporters Club mess hall; Portugal football memorabilia adorns the walls and the ceiling with everything from scarves from FC Porto to Portugal itself. World flags hang lazily on the walls alongside the photos of various celebrities and regular customers that have frequented the place over time and the friendly welcoming received as you walk in is still, as ever, present as it was back on my first visit. Wine is a big deal here and the bottles available to buy (approximately six reds and six whites with some sparklings and some fortified) are on display in prominent 42 winetimeshk.com

positions around the restaurant almost willing people to have a go at some of their easy going whites from Alentejo, Reds from the Dao and Port wines from the Douro. The wines themselves are reasonably priced but a good way of telling the price versus quality of an establishments wine list is to check out the house wine by the glass. Here, simple quaffing whites and reds are just $25 a glass which is exceptional value, whilst you can also get a ¼, ½ and full litre of either in carafe. The shelves next to the bar display a selection of old wines that are not for sale alongside a selection of porcelain chickens, tea cups, traditional blue tile and an assortment of memorabilia that looks more like the collection of trinkets one would find in their old aunties home! The menu itself is a collection of Portuguese staples from Bacalhau to Octopus and Sardines, rice dishes aplenty and heaps of Carne (meat) for the lover of what is described as home-cooked style food. Of course, there is the mandatory

A Tasca do Luis 葡韻美食店

Address: 57-59-63 Rua Correia da Silva, Vila Da Taipa, Ilhas, Macau 地址:澳門氹仔舊城區告利雅施利華街57-59, 63號舖

Tel. 電話: +853 2882 7636 時常想要回到澳門的葡韻美食店(A Tasca 我 do Luis),每每也重拾起第一次與當時女 朋友(現為妻子)到此共享美食的甜蜜回憶。猶 記得這店地方雖小,但食物與服務質素頗好, 加上滿載着甜蜜歡樂的回憶,令這裏的一切也 變得特別美好。十年一別,舊地重遊時我差點 忘了餐廳「別致」的裝飾,宛如置身於葡萄牙 足球體育會一般—牆身和天花上也掛滿了葡 萄牙足球賽的紀念品和波圖足球會的圍巾。牆 上也零丁地掛着不同國家的旗幟,也貼着某些 名人到訪所拍的照片,每事每物也沒有改變, 尤其是服務員友好的招待,簡直與十年前首次 光臨此店沒差。

葡萄酒對這間餐廳而言是重要的一環,其有 售的葡萄酒均展示於餐廳的當眼位置(紅白酒 各有6款,還有些氣泡酒及加烈葡萄酒),因此 食客大多會試試當中較容易入喉的阿連特茹 (Alentejo)白酒和Dao紅酒,或是杜羅(Douro)砵酒。各種酒的價格也屬相宜,但要計算 其是否物超所值的話,最好還是以每杯特選餐 酒的價格評價。店內的特選紅白餐酒也可供暢 飲,而且每杯只售$25,同時也可選擇點叫四


baked suckling pig, roasted lamb chops and grilled chicken; simple favourites that should please the palate and transport it back to Lisbon. However, the prices are not exactly cheap – averaging around $160 for a main course, $90 for salad, $45 for soup and $50 for an appetizer – and, having ordered Beef Croquettes ($50) and the Shrimp Pie ($50) we recommend skipping the starters and probably heading straight for the mains. The Beef Croquettes were oily and rather heavy and it took two beers to wash them down whilst the Prawn Pie were slightly better but again, lacking in actual prawn and again slightly oily. To be honest, the main I had was not much better than the starters. The Fried Fish Filets ($150) were covered in a batter that was heavy and stodgy – a far cry from expectations of a light, fluffy and crispy batter that health conscious diners have come to expect these days. The fish itself tasted more like the River Cobbler that you buy in Wellcome and was almost as palatable as the plastic bag it was carried back from the supermarket in. The side of tomato rice was well over cooked and when the garnish side salad is the best part of the dish, I was left wishing I had just ordered a salad alone – but at $95 I am glad I didn’t. I ordered a ½ litre of white

wine ($80) but the friendly staff there recommended me to try the half bottle of 2011 Vinha Das Servas and in hindsight I should have stuck with my original order as the wine was either a little outdated or just not very good and in the end I paid $90 for 375ml when I could have paid $80 for 500ml. On the point of service, I must say that it is extremely friendly and efficient but it’s best to sit as far away from the service area as possible as you will likely get an earful of chit chat from the staff talking to each other. Whilst being friendly and smiley, they could do with turning down the vocal volume as at times it felt like being in a fast food joint in Manila. On the whole, it was definitely not one of the best meals I have ever had in Macau and am very unlikely to ever return there as there are plenty of better places in the former colony that do food so much better. I would suggest the place is more designed for tourists and one-time visitors and were I a ‘star giving person’ I would give it one out of five – just for the friendly service. It’s a shame that my memories of having eaten there before can only be reminisced upon these days and not re-experienced, but there are many great new places that we will explore in future for these pages that hopefully will create new life long memories of food fondness.

客$95的沙律絕不算是划算。 我原本點叫了半公升的白酒($80),但服務員 殷勤地向我推介Vinha Das Servas 2011紅 酒,因此我便改為點半枝紅酒($90)。及後發 現,我最初的選擇是對的—那半枝酒有點太 舊,或算不上是好酒,而我付了$90只喝到 375毫升的酒,本來只需付$80便喝到500毫 升的酒,在這樣的計算下,我也就虧了本。而 以服務質素而言,這餐廳的員工既友善且有效 率,但我不建議食客坐在離服務員最近的位 置,除非你想吃整頓飯間也聽到員工間的對 話。雖然他們面帶笑容而親切,但其說話聲浪 使人感覺身處於馬尼拉的快餐店一樣,嘈吵不 堪,他們實在有需要降低聲浪。 總的而言,這頓飯一定不是我在澳門的餐廳裏 吃過其中最好的一餐,而我也不太會再次光顧 葡韻美食店,只因全澳門有太多比它更好的 餐廳。我會說遊客或一次性食客較可能光顧這 店,但我作為「給予星星」的食評人,五粒星 中它只得到一粒,亦只因為其服務態度良好。 可惜這餐廳的美好只能停留於記憶當中,不能 於今天再次回味,但我們相信將會找到其他更 值得推介的澳門餐廳,可讓讀者嚐到美食的滋 味,更留下長久而深刻的回憶。

分之一公升、半公升或一公升的份量,均是超值之選。 吧臺旁的架上擺放着非賣品的舊酒,此外還有陶瓷雞、茶杯、 古色古香的藍瓷磚,以及不同的紀念品作為擺設,就像是從老 嬸嬸家中找到的收藏品一樣! 餐牌上供應的均為經典葡國菜式,馬介休、八爪魚、沙甸魚一 應俱存,飯類及肉類菜式也選擇豐富,所有菜式均被形容為充 滿家庭風味。當然,一間葡國餐廳又怎能少了烤乳豬、烤羊扒 及燒雞呢?定不能缺了里斯本的口味吧!然而,食物價格不能 算得上為便宜—每道主菜平均為$160,沙律為$90,餐湯為 $45,而每道前菜為$50。在點叫炸牛肉餅($50)和炸蝦餅($50) 作為前菜後,我們還是建議讀者跳過前菜,直接由主菜開始, 因為炸牛肉餅頗為油膩及濃味,使我喝下整整兩枝啤酒,才把 口腔內的味道清除掉,而炸蝦餅的味道稍為好一點,但同樣過 於油膩且少了點蝦肉。 老實說,主菜也不比前菜好多了,我點叫了香煎魚柳($150), 一心以為其漿粉會是薄身脆口的,誰知端到桌上的魚柳,其漿 粉卻厚重難嚥,相信令注重健康飲食的食客「大跌眼鏡」。魚 柳本身的味道就像是惠康超市買得到的鯰魚柳,還附帶着包裝 魚柳的膠袋味,而伴碟的蕃茄飯則過熟,令作為配菜的沙律成 為碟上味道最好的一部分,早知當初只單點一客沙律—不,一 winetimeshk.com 43


Whine-on: Ask us whatever you like! 讀者專欄:想問就問!

Have any doubts or questions about wine? Send us an email at md@winetimeshk.com or leave a message on our Facebook page at facebook.com/winetimeshk and we will bust the answer for you! 你有任何關於酒的疑問嗎?請寄電郵到md@winetimeshk.com或在我們的 Facebook 專頁facebook.com/winetimeshk留言,隨便發問!我們樂意為你解開 每個疑難! Q1: Is fruit wine actually a wine per se? – Malcolm; Sai Kung 水果酒能歸類為「wine」(葡萄酒/果酒)嗎?—Malcolm;西貢

Answer: The Oxford English Dictionary defines wine as: An Alcoholic drink made from fermented grape juice. However, it does go on to elaborate and also includes the definition: An alcoholic drink made from the fermented juice of specified other fruits or plants. So, to answer your question, yes, wine can be made from all kinds of fruit. In Hong Kong there are fruit wines in the local supermarkets, mainly made from sweeter fruits such as strawberry or peach so that there is some natural sweetness to the wine and there is less need to add more sugar to the fermentation. There is also a wine on the local market that is made from tomatoes called Omerto – this is available from Nice Things in the city. Overall, whether made from grapes or not we don’t mind – but you’ll never catching us drinking a fruit wine made from other than grapes… just because we like grape wine more!

答: 牛津英語字典把葡萄酒定義為:以發酵葡萄釀造的酒 精飲品。不過,其中更詳盡的釋義為:以其他發酵水 果或植物的果汁或汁液釀成的酒精飲品。因此,這個 問題的答案是:正解,果酒能以任何水果釀製而成。 香港超市有售的果酒,大部分均是以較甜的水果釀 造,例如士多啤梨和蜜桃,因為它們本身的果糖含量 較高,不需額外加入糖分去發酵。此外,香港也有供 應以蕃茄釀造的酒,其名為Omerto,於酒零售商Nice Things有售。不過,酒本身是以葡萄還是其他果類釀 造,其實不要緊……因為你不會看到我們喝葡萄酒以外 的果酒,只因我們最喜歡的還是葡萄酒!

Q2: Does a beautiful label mean a beautiful wine inside the bottle? – Meena; Tsim Sha Tsui 酒標設計精美代表葡萄酒同樣為美酒嗎?—Meena;尖沙咀

Answer: Most likely not Meena. The more outrageous the label the worse the wine – in general. There are of course many exceptions to the rule such as the Bonny Doon wines we have featured as our cover story this month. On the whole, wines with flashy labels are more just eye-catching marketing designed to be spotted on the shop shelf and have no bearing on the quality of the wine inside the bottle. As a general rule of thumb, avoid wines with furry marsupials on the label (kangaroos, echidnas and koalas) as these are just staple shop shelf designed labels. The simpler the label also does not mean the wine is a good one either – it may be a winery that does not want to spend any money on labelling and has an inferior product in the bottle. As the saying goes “never judge a book by its cover” the same is true for wine. Don’t buy a wine because it has a pretty label as you might live to regret it…ask someone first or stick to what you already know best. 44 winetimeshk.com

答: 大概不是吧。普遍來說,酒標設計愈怪異,酒的質素 也愈差。當然,世上有着很多很多的例外,其中一個 便是今期WTHK雜誌封面故事的Boony Doon。整體而 言,浮華誇張的酒標設計只是吸引顧客注意的市場技 倆,與酒瓶內葡萄酒的質素沒有關係。以經驗而言, 盡量不要選擇酒標上有毛茸茸有袋類動物圖案的葡萄 酒(袋鼠、小刺猬、樹熊),因為這都是店鋪自行設計的 酒標。同時間,簡單的酒標設計也不能斷定瓶中酒的 好壞。所謂「人不可以貌相」,其實葡萄酒亦然。不 要因為瓶身設計精美而買得一番後悔,還是先問問其 他人的喝後感,或選擇購買自己熟悉的葡萄酒吧。


Q3: Who makes the best value wines at the moment? – John; Central 現時哪個產國釀造出最價廉物美的葡萄酒?—John;中環

Answer: At the moment John, if you are buying wines direct from source then the best value wines are from Europe in general as because of the downfall of the Euro; the wines have become cheaper to buy. But on the whole, wines from Chile and Australia represent not necessarily the best value, but certainly the best prices right now. Spain makes some great value for money wines from regions such as Toro and Penedes whilst if you are looking for a ‘finer’ wine then Italian wines are always great value for money as there is little to no speculation on the prices as there is with Bordeaux wines. A lot depends on one’s concept of value but certainly between $100 and $200 per bottle there are plenty of wines around the city from all countries that represent this price point. Under $100 would have to be Chile or Argentina whilst again, at the top end, look for the wines of Northern Italy – or if you want cheaper Italian wines, look for the wines of Puglia.

答: 暫時來說,如果你直接從國外購買葡萄酒,最價廉物 美的便是產自歐洲的葡萄酒,原因在於歐元價格下 調,葡萄酒價格也變得相對便宜。然而總的來說,智 利及澳洲葡萄酒的「性價比」未必最高,但卻是目 前最便宜的葡萄酒。西班牙的托羅(Toro)及佩內德斯 (Penedes)也有出產些好酒;至於「高級」一點的葡 萄酒,意大利是不錯的選擇,起碼比波爾多葡萄酒便 宜。每個人對「價值」的看法也不一樣,但介乎100至 200元的葡萄酒,實在有來自世界各產區各式各樣的選 擇。如果預算在100元以下,選擇定必是智利和阿根 廷的葡萄酒。高級葡萄酒方面,可選擇釀自意大利北 部產區的葡萄酒;若想喝上更便宜一點的意大利葡萄 酒,可選擇普利亞產區(Puglia)的葡萄酒。

Q4: If I am having a party, what’s the best wine to serve my guests? – Amanda; Happy Valley 如果我將舉辦一個派對,甚麼葡萄酒最能大派用場?—Amanda;跑馬地

Answer: When you are having a party Amanda I would not worry about trying to please everybody. I am sure there will be a mix of people from both genders, varying nationalities, novice to experienced drinkers and so forth. Thus, I would recommend just buying a white and a red that you yourself like - it is your party after all! There is a simple formula that we finds works best for parties; make sure there is at least one bottle for each person that’s coming as, if there are still wines left over at the end of the night, they will be wines you like and that you bought yourself. Go for an easy drinking white without too much acidity as you want people to enjoy the wine over conversation without food. As for the reds, look for something rather simple with a touch of fruitiness but not too heavy or alcoholic as you don’t want your guests to leave completely intoxicated and you want them to enjoy the wines whilst standing around chatting – so no overly complex fine wines when it comes to red. For reds, look for affordable Australian or Spanish wines, they always seem to go down well with the majority.

答: 舉辦派對時並不需要滿足所有人的口味;派對的賓客 名單上定有着各種各樣的人,他們有着不同性別,來 自不同國家,其品酒年資也各異。所以,我建議只需 買你喜歡的紅白酒各一便可,終究還是你才是派對的 主人翁!關於派對,我們有一條簡單的方程式可跟讀 者分享:為賓客準備一人一枝酒。如果到派對尾聲仍 有酒剩,起碼它們是由你購買,而且是你所喜愛的酒 品。你可選擇酸度不高而容易入喉的白酒,讓人可以 在不配搭食物下,邊盡情享受喝酒,邊談天說地。至 於紅酒,你可選擇層次簡單而帶點果味的紅酒,但避 免選擇酒體過厚重、具力量及高酒精含量的,因為你 大概不希望賓客們太容易便喝醉,無法享受派對的歡 樂時光。價格相宜的澳洲及西班牙紅酒是不錯的選 擇,也較迎合眾人的口味。

Q5: I heard pairing wine with eggs is impossible. Is this true? – Mark; Tsuen Wan 聽說雞蛋不可能配搭上美酒,這是真的嗎?—Mark;荃灣

Answer: Good question Mark, one for which we’ll start answering it with another question: when do you normally eat eggs? Eggs on the whole are something we think of as a breakfast food – but of course this is not exclusively true. Eggs are notoriously hard to pair with wines but if you think sparkling wines then it becomes a little easier. Think Champagne, Prosecco or Moscato when it comes to eggs as these are wines that can be drunk any time of the day. It may be that eggs cooked in a different manner work differently with different wines, we are not too sure about this. We have had an egg dish at local restaurant Chez Patrick that was paired with a French Cabernet Franc which worked very well, but examples of egg and wine pairings are few and far between. Eggs are seldom eaten on their own so it may be best to try to find a wine that fits the other foods on the plate. As far as local 1,000 year eggs go, although black and horrible aesthetically, they do pair very nicely with Oregon Riesling from the USA!

答: 這是個好問題,但回答之前,我們先要問問另一個問 題:通常你在甚麼時間吃雞蛋?普遍而言,我們在早 餐時才吃雞蛋,雖然也不一定。雞蛋是眾所周知難以 配搭美酒的食物,但若配上氣泡酒,那便容易得多 了。一天裏的任何時候,也適合喝上香檳、Prosecco ( 意大利氣泡酒)和Moscato (意大利甜酒),因此它們也 就比較能配上雞蛋。而雞蛋有多種煮法,或許我們不 能百分百肯定何種煮法配上何種酒為之最佳,不過一 次到法國餐廳Chez Patrick的經驗中,其中一道雞蛋 菜式與法國的Cabernet Franc紅酒很配搭,但能夠配 搭得上的例子實在少之又少。而且,雞蛋成為碟上主 角的機會較低,常與其他食物被一同煮成一道菜,因 此選一枝酒配搭另外的食物會是較好的做法。至於被 外國人視為腐壞食物的皮蛋,其實與美國的Oregon Riesling白酒很配搭呢。

winetimeshk.com 45


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winetimeshk.com 47


Jobs provided by

以下職位由Wine Jobs HK提供

Recruitment in the wine business 人才招聘

Find out more wine job vacancies at www.winejobshongkong.com/ 請瀏覽以上網址查詢更多職位空缺

Account Executive

Sales Manager

Responsibilities:

Responsibilities:

客戶代表 Summergate

- Make regular calls to trade accounts to build relationships with key wine buyers - Organize and present reports and conduct market research - Conduct customer training seminars, attend wine dinners, execute tasting promotions and participate in industry related trade fairs - Implement promotions and create incentives to develop business

Requirements:

- A passion for wine and an eagerness to learn the wine & spirits industry - Self motivated, independent, and possess strong interpersonal skills with the ability to build and maintain relationships - Excellent communication, organizational & presentation skills - Good command of spoken and written English & Cantonese. We offer excellent career prospects to successful candidates. For interested parties, please send your CV to hkhr@summergate.com with your present and expected salary, date of availability and any related credentials. (All personal data will be treated confidentially and used for recruitment purposes only)

銷售經理 Altaya Wines Limited - Responsible for day-to-day sales operation include daily sales performance. - Provide professional customer services and be responsible for sales developing on & off trade channel, including hotels, restaurant, bars and retail shops, etc. - Manage payment collection of all gained accounts efficiently. - Sales driven, dynamic and very sociable focus on developing new accounts while maintaining the existing customers. - Develop sales in accordance with sales development plan and the company procedures and policy. - Arrange and coordinate local tasting and marketing events for overseas suppliers when in Hong Kong. - A team player between different departments of the company

Requirements:

- Diploma or above - WSET Level 2 or above - At least 2 years in F&B industry with wine experience - Dynamic, self-motivated and able to work under pressure; - With an outgoing and pleasing personality, good team player - Good command of spoken and written English and Chinese - Immediately available is hightly preferred - Strong sales, marketing, key account and distributor management skills - Results-driven and self-motivated person with flexible and dynamic work attitude. Interested parties please send your resume with expected salary and available date to hr@altayawines.com

Wine Shop Sales Executive 零售店營銷代表 Grand Wine Cellar

Responsibilities:

- Responsible for daily shop operations - Coordinate for the promotional activities such as wine tasting events and trade exhibitions - 6 working days a week from 12:00 – 21:00.

Requirements:

- Enjoy wine and wine culture. Knowledge of wines will be an advantage. - 1-2 years sales experience, preferable in wine, retail or hospitality industry. - Pleasant personality, good communication skills, service oriented, energetic and positive - Good command of spoken English, Mandarin and Cantonese - Form 5 graduate or above We offer attractive remunerative package (included basic + commission) to the right candidate. Interested parties, please send your application letter with full resume stating current and expected salary: By email: personnel@gwc.com.hk By fax : 3971-7906

Sales Director, Wine – Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan (AA-V10574_CM) 銷售總監 Achieve Asia Limited

Responsibilities:

- Position is responsible for sales and distributor/customer management in Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan. - Achievement of volume and value sales targets for Hong Kong/ Macau/Taiwan - Assignment of non-assigned brands to new distributors - Achievement of solid activity plan within distributors to key account level to maximize sales, profits and brand equity - Establishment of a quality contacts and connections (sommeliers, F&B managers) within Key HORECA Accounts to obtain listings - Adhere to expense budgets - Work to improve management practices with distributors - Timely communication and reporting up to management - Training and working with current distributor sales team to improve their skills - Local events/tastings - Be an excellent participant in the Asian team

Requirements:

Sales Manager (Part-time) 銷售經理 (兼職) Shanghai Impex Co. Ltd.

Responsibilities:

- To develop sales to on-trade channels, especially for developing new clients - To follow-up the orders and preparing reports. - To gather market information and implement sales & marketing strategies - To support the marketing, PR activities and events. Please email your full resume with your current salary and expected salary, and quote the employer reference!

48 winetimeshk.com

-

Minimum 5 years wine experience, and 8 years ofworking experience Excellent business acumen, understanding of value chain, promo efficiency Excellent Wine Knowledge, professional wine trainingpreferred eg WSET Level 3 Candidate needs to enjoy wine and be entrenched and engaged with the wine industry, with an established network Excellent communicator and networker Languages: English written and spoken fluent, Mandarin: Strongly Desirable, Cantonese desirable

Please email your resume to resumes@achieveasia.com or call Christian McGregor (+852) 2530 1219.


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Wine Times Hong Kong Issue 5  

Hong Kong's only truly honest and unbiased bilingual wine magazine for young aspiring wine lovers.

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