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February 2015

Issue 4 FREE

Bottled Romance:

Canadian Love Potion 一瓶滿的浪漫: 加拿大的Love Potion

Wine Spotlight:

Château Margaux’s Paul Pontallier

聚光燈: 瑪歌酒莊的釀酒師 Paul Pontallier

TOP 10 Buying Wine Online

十大酒品

網購平台


Over 38 booths of food and wine from around the world, wine school, live entertainment and so much more. Come and join us celebrate! 超過38個來自世界各地的美食美酒攤位,還有品酒 學校及其他精彩節目等。快前來讓我們一起來慶祝這 個盛大的葡萄酒美食節!


Drink Up, Hong Kong! 香港飲勝!

Ali Nicol Founder of Wine Times Hong Kong

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A local Hong Konger who has been working in the wine business for over 15 years. Obviously loves wine and wants to share all the lovely wines with everyone.

ow that January is finally over, all of you that resolved to give up alcohol for the month can now get back into the wine bars of Hong Kong and enjoy a nice glass of wine; something I am sure you missed over the last 31 days! For those, like us here at Wine Times HK who did not do so (or would even consider doing) then it’s another month ahead of great wines, wine dinners, tastings and, of course Valentine’s Day and Chinese New Year celebrations. This month, we considered writing a cover story on the best places to take your loved one out for Valentine’s Day but as we think it’s a day best suited to romanticism at home rather than spending your hard earned money on a set menu that is not worth the price and where cheap Champagne is generally part of the deal we didn’t! Instead we have a feature on a wicked wine from Canada’s Legend Estate Winery – at least we went with a heart shaped theme! Also among the pages of this issue is an interview with legendary winemaker Paul Pontallier of Bordeaux’s Château Margaux, our “Top 10 Online Wine Websites” so you can get your wines easily with just a click of a mouse and Stephy tells you why you should not worry too much about getting the Valentine’s Day wine pairing exactly right. Of course, other than having just celebrated the dawn of a new year, we also celebrated our editor Christie’s birthday 2 winetimeshk.com

this last month - I am sure she had a few as she likes a drink now and again! Check out her story on what to drink over the upcoming Chinese New Year as she finds some special wines to celebrate the festivities with. I am sure you will find her recommendations intriguing! We had a nice semi-busy but productive January with the visit of the eccentric Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyards and one of his ‘partners in crime’, the “King of Condrieu” Yves Cuilleron – two of the notorious “Rhone Rangers”. We also hung out with American Zinfandel producer Pete Seghesio and had a stunning dinner with him in Ocean Terminal’s LUCQUES tavern – I am sure most of you saw the photos on Facebook! So, as we endeavour to wave good-bye to the tumultuous year of the horse, we welcome in the year of the Goat which we hope will bring all people a year full of reward and plenty. But remember, it’s not a right, it has to be earned. So spend some time as this year ends for some quiet self reflection, see how you can improve on what you did last year and make amends for what you got wrong. Let me take this opportunity to wish all wine lovers and their friends and family “Kung Hei Fat Choy” and a happy and prosperous year of the goat – oh yeah, and a Happy Valentine’s Day to all lovers out there! Cheers!

月終於完結,在年初誓神劈願要戒酒的 一 「死士」,你已經連續31天錯過了享受 美酒的時光,現在就去酒吧盡情喝吧!至於沒 有打算戒酒(甚至絕不會考慮戒酒)的WTHK讀 者,讓我們一同於本月迎接更多的美酒、品酒 晚宴及試酒會,當然也有重要的節日—情人節 及農曆新年。

為了今期WTHK雜誌的封面故事,我們原本考 慮介紹最適合情侶共度浪漫一夜的餐廳,最後 我們卻改變主意—於一餐龐大灑辛勞工作得來 的金錢,吃下喝掉價錢與質素不成正比的食物 及香檳,怎能與愛侶在家中自製浪漫相比!於 是,我們決定向讀者介紹這枝來自加拿大酒莊 Canada’s Legend Estate Winery的氣泡玫 瑰紅酒,它有點「邪惡」,不過至少它瓶身上 的心形圖案與情人節十分配合! 除封面故事外,今期雜誌也會介紹來自波爾 多Château Margaux酒莊的頂尖釀酒師Paul Pontallier,也向各位介紹「十大酒品網購平 台」,讓你輕按幾下滑鼠便購得想喝的美酒, 而Stephy則告訴你為何不用擔心在情人節晚 上選錯葡萄酒。雖然我們剛剛才為新一年來 臨而慶祝過,但上月也恰巧是我們WTHK編輯 Christie的生日,怎能不好好慶祝一番呢?相 信在慶生時,也會喝上她一直喜歡的酒呢!讀 讀她所寫有關農曆新年的文章,你定會從她有 趣的建議中取得靈感,找到特別的酒品,在新 年期間試試看呢。 我們過了一個忙碌而充實的一月,先是與兩位 聲名聲名鵲起的「Rhone遊俠」會面,就是 來自美國加州酒莊Bonny Doon Vineyards的 「另類」釀酒師Randall Grahm,以及他的最 佳拍檔、被稱為「Condrieu(法國孔德里約產 區)之王」Yves Cuilleron。之後,我們又與美 國加州Zinfandel的釀酒師Pete Seghesio,在 海港城海運大廈的美國菜餐廳LUCQUES tavern,開懷地吃了一頓豐富的晚餐,相信你們 已在Facebook看到照片了! 讓我們跟馬年揮手說再見,展望羊年是有回報 及豐收的一年,不過要緊記,這可不是招手就 來,而是要努力爭取的。所以,我們應作年終 的自我檢討,決心糾錯,才能彌補曾經做錯過 的。在此,我向愛酒的讀者說聲恭喜發財,事 事順景。噢,對了,也祝願有情人的各位能度 過一個美好的情人節。乾杯! (Christie Chan譯) Contact us via email at md@winetimeshk.com


Contents 目錄

p7 Love Potion by Legends Estate

2 Drink Up, Hong Kong!

Hello Wine World 4 走進酒世界

香港飲勝!

7 Bottled Love: Canadian Love Potion 一瓶滿的浪漫: 加拿大的Love Potion

Not that hard to steal a heart 14 情人節之偷心術

17 The Wine Doctor:

Resurrecting the Ancient Drink of Gods: Mead 酒博士專欄:復興天神的美酒:蜂蜜酒

“Join us for Tasting” 19

Panel: Korea vs. Germany 飲食擂台:韓國 對 德國

24 Give the Goat wines to celebrate

Hey sunshine darlings! 26 Lemme tell ya 'bout Californian wines

羊年有「禮」

認識產自美國加州的葡萄酒

29 Top 10 Wine Retail Websites Desert Island Wines 33 出走何用帶上酒?

十大酒品網購平台

p19 Tasting Panel

36 Wine Spotlight: Château Margaux’s Paul Pontallier

聚光燈:瑪歌酒莊的釀酒師 Paul Pontallier

Chef Chat with Stephy 38 當Stephy遇上主廚

41 Macau: Simple, No Frills Eating

Whine-On: 44 Ask us whatever you like! 讀者專欄:想問就問!

澳門:吃得一切從簡

48 Recruitment in the wine business

p33 Desert Island Wines

行業人才招聘

p36 Château Margaux’s Paul Pontallier

p38 Making of Turnip Cake winetimeshk.com 3


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ot sure how everyone’s New Year’s resolutions are going but I’d say mine is going pretty well thus far! At least I am doing more outdoor activities like, hiking, biking and running. At the same time, I’m also trying my very best to get back to my healthy diet with more greens and less meat. It might sound a bit boring Stephy Poon to some of you yet without a healthy PR Executive 公關 body (both physically and mentally), there’s really nothing much you can do. Speaking of Chinese New Year, I love it; this is certainly my favourite Chinese festival because all of my relatives will come back to Hong Kong and I do enjoy such big group of family for a reunion - it warms the cockles of my heart. When I was small, my grandma was the one who did all the preparation work for Chinese New Year dinners and, in my eyes, her turnip cake was really amazing and was definitely the best of the best which no one could compete with and made this dish so meaningful. Apart from Chinese New Year, Valentine’s Day is also another highlight of February’s celebrations. Actually, I’m not too keen on all those “commercialised romantic celebration tricks”, especially flowers. Seriously, I rather use that amount of money for a nice bottle of wine and to enjoy the romantic and precious moment without anyone staring or checking what gifts I have received from my beloved one. Before saying goodbye to my year (I’m a horse in Chinese zodiac), and welcome the year of Goat, I would like to wish everyone good health, good luck and much happiness throughout the year! 家的新年大計進度是否良好?我猜我的進度直至 大 目前為止,還算不錯!至少户外運動做多了,行 山、跑步、踩單車都有。飲食方面,我也盡量控制自己 吃得健康,多菜少肉。對某些人來說可能有點老土,但 沒有一個健康的身體(生理和心理),說真的,其他甚 麼都變得沒有意義。 農曆新年對我來說真的別具意義,因為在這個我最喜歡 的中國傳統節日中,居於海外的親戚都會回到香港團 聚,談談大家的近況—令我暖在心頭。小時候,祖母 是眾人的大廚和指揮,為我們二十多人準備美味豐盛 的做節晚餐。在我眼中,她弄的蘿蔔糕是無人能及的 可口,是一級的棒!當我和Grace(二月「煮」廚)學如 何製作蘿蔔糕時,我們也認同這是一道充滿童年回憶的 美食。 農曆新年以外,情人節亦是二月的另一重點節日。對於 某些「商業化浪漫慶祝花招」,大紮鮮花尤甚,本人並 不熱衷。我寧願把同等的金錢去換取一瓶美酒,沒有他 人打量的情況下,好好享受只屬於我倆的私人甜蜜時 刻。「有情飲水飽」,情人間的心靈相通和滿足才是王 道。 隨著馬年(我犯正太歲的一年)過去,在迎接羊年的同 時,我祝各位讀者身體健康,大吉大利,笑口常開!

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lot happened in the beginning of 2015 that made January slip away in a blink. I caught a fever for two weeks but had to be cured as soon as possible because I had a birthday party to attend – yes my own birthday party which 40 friends were coming. Fortunately I felt fine before my birthday arrived and had an awesome birthday with my beloved ones. How can we celebrate without Champagne? We simply can’t! Here I would like to share what I had for my birthday – Pommery Brut Silver NV from France – my choice of having fun! It tastes dry and crispy with moderate acidity that matches non sweet tooth drinkers like me. That’s why I fell for it for the first sip, and ended up drinking 4 magnum bottles of it at the party (Of course we drank a lot of other liquors). I truly thank all my lovely friends for taking their time with me and being beside me, making me feel so special about myself. Well, curious about how the party ended up? I describe it as “awesome” and now read that again as “drunk”! The more you drink the more fun you have so it couldn’t have gone any other way! Upcoming Chinese New Year in February is I am sure something people are looking forward to as there are 4 public holidays in a row! Though I have no plans for the holidays ahead, it cannot be better to spend more time with family and friends. My family and I have our own traditions for CNY and our CNY routine goes like this: On the first day of CNY, the whole family gather up to have congee for lunch implying no matter we are poor or rich (in Chinese culture congee is considered food for the poor), we stay together as a family with highs and lows. Then we spend the afternoon gambling at home (under $10 each bet). Maybe it does not sound so much fun but it is for us! Spending time with ones you love is simply satisfying. Now let’s wave goodbye to the Horse and welcome the Goat; wishing everyone a healthy body, a successful career and most importantly a smile on the face every day! 月份在轉眼之間經已流走,我先在年初病倒了, 一 然後為了迎接自己的生日派對而趕緊好起來,最 後不需在身體抱恙下過了一個狂歡盡興的生日!過生辰

又怎能少了香檳?在此我希望與各位讀者分享,產自法 國的Pommery Brut Silver香檳,就是我慶祝生日的選 擇!它的味道清新,酸度適中,最適合不喜甜的我, 難怪我對它一「嚐」鍾情。於是,我跟好友們共喝了整 整四枝大酒瓶(Magnum)的香檳(當然還有其他更多的 酒,主要是烈酒)。我感激每位知己好友,把我放在你 們心中重要的位置,「當我最快樂時替我高興」,你們 每一位都是我的特別嘉賓,我想跟你們說聲謝謝!至於 我生日當晚有喝醉嗎?文首已留下伏筆—把生日派對 形容為「狂歡盡興」,你該猜得到吧! 接下來二月份,最令人值得期待的就 是農曆新年,原因只為整整四天的假 期!雖然沒有特別的度假打算,但多 點與家人親友共聚總令人覺得滿足, 而對我來說,假期特別適宜在家中享 受入廚樂,同樣為我帶來滿足感。在 送馬迎羊之際,恭祝讀者們身體健 康,歡欣洋溢,喜氣「羊羊」! Christie

Chan Editor 編輯


WTHK wishes our readers a Happy Chinese New Year! Kung Hei Fat Choy! WTHK祝各位讀者 農曆新年快樂!恭喜發財!

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Bottled Love: Canadian Love Potion 一瓶滿的浪漫: 加拿大的Love Potion

Text by Of all the Ali Nicol things that come Photography to mind when you by Ali Nicol & think of Canada, roChristie Chan Images: Legends mance is probably not Estate one of them (unless you Model: Alison Christ Shooting Location: La count cuddling up to Cabane (Shin Hing Street) a loved one during the long, cold and dark winter nights!). However, Ontario winemaker Paul Lizak of Legends Estate 如果 加拿大 Winery is giving wine lovers the 是一本 chance to taste some of Cana書,你大概 da’s bottled love in the form of 找不着「浪 its iconic sparkling Rosé wine, 漫」一詞(除非 The Love Potion. It’s not just 你認為在又長又 the label that’s sexy; the 寒冷的黑夜裏,抱 着愛人入睡已是十分 wine’s a smoky-eyed sul浪漫的事)。來自加拿大 try little minx just waiting 安大略Legends Estate酒 to be popped and 莊的釀酒師Paul Lizak,把 devoured... 愛釀成氣泡玫瑰紅酒,讓愛酒 的你也嚐到加拿大的浪漫!這酒 的酒標設計性感火辣,就像是個化了 煙燻妝,姿態撩人而帶點壞的女孩,正 等待被打開及吞下... 譯文:Christie Chan 攝影:Ali Nicol & Christie Chan 圖像:Legends Estate

模特兒:Alison Christ 拍攝地點:La Cabane (善慶街)

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anada over the last handful of decades has embraced more than a million Chinese as Canadian and many of these have migrated back to differing regions of Greater China in recent times as the prosperity of Hong Kong and other Chinese regions have prospered despite fears of what Chinese rule might look like in post-1997 Hong Kong. Our city is home to over 300,000 Canadian passport holders and although the last census here does not reflect this number - because it does not recognise dual nationality and if you are a Canadian Chinese in Hong Kong then you are Chinese - there is a huge Chinese Canadian population as compared to most other nationalities (dual or not). What is it about Canada that makes it such an appealing place? High standards of living, residential area safety

and close-knit communities, being an English speaking country and a high number of Chinese living there all add to the attraction for sure – but how come so many are emigrating back and how come so few have brought any modicum of Canadian culture back to Asia with them? We are talking about Canadian food and drink; and in particular wine. Canadian wine is yet to become or garner anything but a look of scepticism on most peoples’ faces here in Hong Kong. “They make ice wine” is the most commonly heard comment when people are asked about Canadian wine; and yes they do. They are famous for ice wine but it’s not all that they make. There are wines made in Canada from most, if not all international grape varieties yet ice wine is what has put them on the world wine map. Much like New Zealand with

過去數十年間,超過100萬華人移民到 在 加拿大,即使他們對九七後中國政府管 治香港抱有懷疑,但仍有不少人因重新看好大

中華地區的發展前景,選擇回流兩岸三地。而 居於香港的加拿大籍人口超過30萬人,不過 這數目與上一次人口普查的數據不符,原因在 於擁有雙重國籍的人士並不計算在內,也就是 說,如果你是加拿大籍的中國人,那你便被列 入為中國籍。在香港,加籍華人數目眾多,比 起其他國籍的居港人口還要多(不論是雙重國 籍與否)。 為甚麼加拿大是理想的移民勝地?生活質素 高、居住環境治安良好、緊密社區聯繫、以英 語為主導、已有不少華人聚居於此,這些通通 都是加拿大的吸引之處。然而,為何仍有不少 人選擇回流,而且甚少人會將丁點兒的加拿大 文化帶到亞洲?在此我們所指的是加拿大的飲 食文化,特別是葡萄酒。 提到加拿大的葡萄酒,大部分香港人對此一臉 茫然,充其量也只能指出加拿大的冰酒比較聞 名。沒錯,加拿大的冰酒的確享負盛名,但 其實不只限於冰酒,加拿大更近乎釀有生長於 世界各地所有的葡萄品種。不過,釀造出優質 冰酒無疑令加拿大成為世界著名葡萄酒產區 的一員,就如紐西蘭釀造出招牌的Sauvignon Blanc般,大部分國家需要先踏出第一步,專 注釀造出一種具知名度的葡萄酒,才能逐步發 展葡萄酒產業。話雖如此,加拿大的釀酒史已 達200年以上,甚至比紐西蘭的更長,但卻未 能與紐西蘭一樣,於短時間內打響名堂,目前 更只在躊躇踏上第二步。究竟是甚麼造成兩者 的區別? 當中部分原因為,有不少人對冰酒或整體產自 加拿大的葡萄酒認識不深。雖然加拿大出產部 分全球最佳的甜酒,不過亞洲人卻抗拒飲用甜 酒。以香港而言,口感味道較不乾澀的加拿大 餐酒選擇較少,而喜歡喝甜酒的人數目較多, 但他們仍然甚少喝冰酒,只因他們對冰酒毫無 認知。不過,加拿大葡萄酒正在香港慢慢地興 起,人們除了重視酒的品質與味道外,在「相 機食先」的文化下,更會追求時尚入格的酒標 設計,而加拿大的葡萄酒便做到了—其新鮮感 十足,同時也讓居於香港的加拿大人嚐到「家 的味道」。 今年二月,情人節和農曆新年必定是城中熱話 (我們另載有相關文章),所以今期WTHK雜誌 的封面故事,特寫了來自加拿大酒莊Legends Estate Winery釀造的Sparkling Love Potion,原因不只在於瓶身設計有着情人節專屬 的心形圖案,更因為它是我們在月前美酒佳餚 節(Wine and Dine Festival)上嚐到的好酒, 認為它值得我們公諸同好。 The Legends Estate Winery由Paul Lizak主 理,他的祖父母於1946年建立了一個佔地12 英畝的小果園,經過近70年來的發展,現時 供Paul釀酒的果園已擴展至200英畝,其位 置為尼加拉瓜半島的安大略湖(Lake Ontario,

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its Sauvignon Blanc, most countries need a first step to get them onto the ladder and Canada has achieved this with its ice wine production. However, Canada has been making wine for over 200 years – much longer than New Zealand. So how come New Zealand has risen to fame in such a short amount of time while Canada is still trying to haul itself onto the second step? Part of this problem is the lack of knowledge and understanding of ice wine itself and, overall of Canadian wine in general. They make undoubtedly some of the best sweet wines on the planet, yet people in Asia are still adverse to drinking sweet wines and there are even less dry table wines available to Hong Kong people than there are people who know anything about ice wine. But the number of Canadian wines in the city are growing

– albeit slowly – as people look further afield for wines that do more than just boost one’s ego; people are looking as much for wines that taste good these days as look good on a table with their friends and here is where Canada can capitalise on both a hunger for something new and a population of Canadian Chinese that should be looking more so for a taste of home. Now, this is the February issue of Wine Times HK, a month when most would be scribing about Valentine’s Day or Chinese New Year (don’t worry, we have other pages for that) and our cover wines were chosen not just because the bottle of the Legends Estate Winery Sparkling Love Potion has a heart on the bottle, but also because it was a wine we discovered at the recent Wine and Dine Festival and a wine we thought merited more exposure.

the Niagara Peninsula)的堤岸,是被視為全 國最佳葡萄酒產區之一。Paul所釀造的葡萄 酒,首個年份為2000年,始後這酒便屢屢獲 得國內國外的葡萄酒獎項。來到今天,他多年 來的努力終於取得成果,他釀造出14個年份 的葡萄酒得到國際認同,同時也在亞洲被視為 「走在前端」的加拿大葡萄酒。 Paul所釀造的葡萄酒種類頗多,包括氣泡酒、 紅酒、白酒以及冰酒,然而系列當中的氣泡玫 瑰紅酒Love Potion(愛情魔藥)、白酒Truth(真 相)以及紅酒Dare(大膽)最為搶眼(當中紅白兩 酒均是由他設計混合葡萄品種組合)。這些酒 的酒標設計獨特,由加拿大安大略紋身工作室 Studio 123 Tattoo的知名紋身師Bob Paulin 所設計,與時下喜歡紋身的年輕人不謀而合。 「Love Potion的酒樽及酒標是特別為了吸引 年輕人注意而設計,我們希望令年輕一代也對 葡萄酒更感興趣。這枝酒充滿玩味,比較容易 入喉,也適合所有人的口味。」Paul說。 Love Potion以Chardonnay葡萄為主,有着 櫻桃和木莓的香氣,酒的顏色比一般玫瑰紅酒 較深。不過,這酒的口感層次豐富,餘韻帶有 適中良好酸度,使人想再多喝一杯。 winetimeshk.com 9


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The Legends Estate Winery is run by Paul Lizak whose grandparents founded a 12 acre fruit farm in 1946. Almost 70 years on Paul is making wines from a now 200 acre plot on the banks of Lake Ontario, a place that has become known as one of the best winemaking regions in the country – the Niagara Peninsula. Paul’s first vintage was in 2000 and since then has gone on to win a number of both Canadian and International medals for his wines. Now, 14 vintages on, the fruits of his hard work are paying off as the wines gain international acceptance and are one of the forerunners for Canadian wines in Asia. Paul makes a range of wines which includes sparkling, red, white and ice wines but it was his Love Potion (sparkling Rosé), Truth (white) and Dare (red) wines (both Proprietors blends) that really grabbed our attention. The labels are actually designed by renowned Canadian tattoo artist Bob Paulin of Studio 123 Tattoo in Ontario and are something that most certainly resonates with today’s tattooed youth. “The packaging for the Love Potion was designed as something that would be interesting to the youth as we wanted something engaging and something that would make them more interested in wine”, says Paul. “The Love Potion is all about having fun. It’s something that’s easy to drink and suitable for everyone”. The Love Potion is a Chardonnay based wine with aromas of cherry and raspberry and a slightly deeper

colour than most would expect from a rosé. However, it has complexity on the palate and has a finish with good acidity immediately making you want to drink more of it. “The Truth and Dare concept was about good and evil. Everybody has that kind of truth and dare image on each shoulder - the little devil and the little angel”, Paul goes on to say. “Young people love these wines but older people drink them too; what I have found is that it brings back their youthful and fun personalities – which I think is amazing!” Both wines have immediate appeal on the shop shelf and, for what look like experiments in marketing design are extremely good, easy drinking wines. The white is very feminine and floral whilst the red is simple and easy drinking. There’s no doubt that Paul has made these wines to be drunk rather than overthought which means they are perfect for the everyday wine drinker and perfect for people who are new to wine itself. “There’s more to Canada than just ice wine; we’re New World just like everyone else. But even so we are a cool climate appellation and people need to understand that”, concludes Paul. “I think the future of Canadian wine has a huge potential. It’s about getting out there and being an educator and showing what we do and how well we do it”. Legends Estate Wines will soon be available from Schmidt Vinothek stores citywide.

Paul Lizak 「Truth和Dare的設計概念源自善惡。每個人 都有善與惡的一面,就像是一邊肩膀上坐着小 天使,另一邊肩膀上坐着小惡魔似的。」Paul 接着說:「年輕人十分喜愛這些酒,但年紀較 大的也同樣喜歡喝,我發現它能引發出人們青 春、好玩的個性,實在是太棒了!」 紅白兩酒的樽身設計極為引人注目,看似經過 專業市場營銷設計一般。兩種酒均屬優質且容 易入喉,當中白酒十分女性化,具濃郁花香味 道,而紅酒則是較簡單易飲。Paul釀造出這樣 的葡萄酒,無非為了讓嚐酒者能在當下不經思 索地享受美酒,換句話說,它們是最佳的日常 飲用餐酒,也是很適合新手飲用的入門級葡萄 酒。 「加拿大不只釀造冰酒,與其他地方一樣也屬 於新世界一員。但即使如此,加拿大是氣候極 為寒冷的葡萄酒產區,人們需要明白在這兒釀 酒並不容易。」Paul總結說:「我認為加拿大 葡萄酒極具發展潛力,我們需飾演教育者的角 色,讓人知道我們如何釀酒,也讓人知道我們 釀酒有多出色。」 釀自加拿大酒莊Legends Estate的葡萄酒快將 於本港酒零售商Schmidt Vinothek有售。

winetimeshk.com 11


R.I.P.

Serge Hochar 20.11.1939 - 31.12.2014

“Wine is a miracle of the nature and life.” — Serge Hochar, May 2012


Not that hard to steal a heart 情人節之偷心術

Text by Stephy Poon 撰文:Stephy Poon

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alentine’s Day; that day of the year where guys are nervously planning how to impress the one they love while girls are anxiously waiting for someone they love to ask them out for a romantic date at a fancy restaurant or a memorable candlelight dinner at home. You will try your best to ensure your plans are perfect for such a special occasion, especially for those who are going to use Valentine’s Day as the chance to make a love confession to someone they love, thus you don’t want to ruin it by making any silly mistakes; keep it simple with gifts, food and wine. Although we cannot help with the gifts or flowers you are going to buy to win you beloved one’s heart, we can of course offer you some tips for wine and food! We believe that a successful food and wine pairing meal is the ticket to winning your beloved one’s heart on Valentine's Day. Therefore, before going to a wine shop or taking a look at the wine list and potentially struggle with what kind of wines you should go for, you better think of the 14 winetimeshk.com

food you are going to pair it with first. Since oysters are traditionally known as an aphrodisiac which has made them become a “must have” dish for Valentine's Day, we won’t be surprised if you choose to get things start off with a half-a-dozen oysters on ice. Oysters are easy to prepare and make at home even if you’re not a good cook. All you need to do is shuck and keep them on ice then serve with a cocktail sauce and some lemon segments. Even if you not a fan of oysters, it is always nice to get things started off with some seafood such as clams or tuna and pair with them some champagne or white wine. To pair with oysters and other raw seafood, look for good dry Blanc de Blancs Champagne (usually exclusively made from the Chardonnay grape) or go for a “Brut” (dry) Champagne. If you’re not a fan of bubbles, then you may also try Chablis or Sancerre from France which are crisp and at times fruity but with a minerality that suits seafood perfectly. These wines combine the minerality

人節是個令不少人又愛又恨的重要節日 情 ──男士們絞盡腦汁,費盡心思以搏取紅 顏一笑;女士們則心急如焚地等待心上人邀 約,到一家有情調餐廳或對方家中,享受一頓 浪漫的二人燭光晚餐。在一個如斯「有意義」 的特別日子,你定必會預早把當天的所有細節 計劃好;而有心儀對象的你,想藉着情人節的 良機跟對方表白的話,就更加不容帶失,不能 讓任何細微的失誤令整個計劃泡湯。至於應該 買甚麼鮮花和禮物去討你愛人的歡心,我們未 必幫得上忙,但是美酒食物配搭?當然放心把 問題交給我們! 在情人節晚餐上成功配對葡葡酒與美食,絕對 是向贏取芳心邁出一大步。與其毫無目標地走 進酒鋪,或看着餐廳的酒單發呆,並在紅酒、 白酒、香檳之間猶豫不決,最好先弄清楚當晚 將會吃何種菜式。 如果你選擇在當天晚餐前點叫半打生蠔,我們 絕不會感到意外,因為有催情作用的生蠔,稱 得上是情人節「必吃」的菜式之一。即使你不 是烹飪高手,也可輕易親自主理這道菜:只需 要清潔洗刷和打開蠔殼,放在冰塊上,加幾塊 檸檬和一個生蠔雞尾酒醬汁便可,步驟簡單而 準備時間短。不愛生蠔吃的你,也可以考慮選 擇其他海鮮類的冷盤,例如吞拿魚和白蜆,配 搭香檳或白酒,較易掌握和出錯機會也較低。 配搭生蠔或海鮮的話,挑選一瓶乾身Blanc de Blancs香檳(單一以Chardonnay葡萄釀製的 香檳)或者「Brut」(乾身)香檳。對氣泡酒興趣


and creaminess in the oysters and help to cleanse your palate for the coming up dishes. And to be frank, I wonder which girl doesn’t like champagne and which guy doesn’t like oysters, aren’t they just unbeatable? When it comes to the main course you might want to have a bottle of red so as to win your beloved one’s heart a step further. Well, once again, you have to figure out what kind of food you and your sweet one are going to have, fish or meat? It’s common for girls to go for fish when guys go for a steak. And then here is the awkward scenario: what if your date told you she wants a glass of red to pair with her salmon when you think fish can only go with white? Hush. Take a deep breath. In fact, fish is not a must to pair with white wines. For example, grilled salmon can go well with light-bodied and low tannin wines with fruity flavours such as Pinot Noir. Yet, if she orders a salmon with butter and cream sauce, an oaked full-bodied Chardonnay will be a better choice to match with the weight of the fish and the sauce that goes with it. For guys who go for a rich fatty cut, such as Rib-eye steak, a bold and high tannin red wine like an Italian Barolo or Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley would work well to cut off the fattiness inside your mouth.

On such a romantic date, finishing your meal with a touch of dessert and a tiny glass of sweet wine is something that shouldn’t be missed. Of course, chocolate and wine, two of the world’s most romantic food for Valentine’s Day could be the ‘Ace up your sleeve’ that generates the heart stopping “I love you” whisper from your date. Generally speaking you just need to remember one rule when you’re choosing the wine to pair with chocolate: the chocolate should not be sweeter than the wine. That means darker and less sweet the chocolate will pair better with a concentrated, bold and dry red such as a tannin-driven Cabernet Sauvignon or a rich-tasting Port. Other sweet wines like, Cream Sherry or Pedro Ximénez, Late harvest Tokaji and Muscat all can be your choice to enhance the romantic feel of that night. If you and your date both have a sweet tooth, then go try the PX Sherry; this sticky and sweet fortified dessert wine will give you and your date a rich and luscious feeling which is simply irresistible and made you two want to kick off your shoes and cuddle in bed. As long as you and your love enjoy the time spent together, there isn’t much to worry about. Just relax, your Valentine will most certainly appreciate the effort you make for them.

不大的,可以選擇試試法國的Chablis又或是 Sancerre,兩者酒體均屬清爽,微微果香中帶 點礦物味,與海鮮稱得上是一流的配搭。這兩 款白酒的清爽酸度和礦物味,絕對可以為你去 除生蠔的滯膩口感。認真想一想,有哪位女生 是不愛香檳,而又有哪位男生不愛生蠔?香檳 配生蠔簡直是「王牌組合」──無懈可撃。 至於主菜,要點叫一枝紅酒,還是白酒,去奪 取伊人的歡心?有一點必須注意的是,你需清 楚知道你們的主菜選擇是甚麼類型的食物, 是魚類、肉類,還是其他?女生選魚類,男生 則點牛扒,這畫面最平常不過的了。但這時問 題來了:如果女生點叫了三文魚扒,但跟你說 她想喝的是紅酒,而你知道的魚類跟白酒最為 配搭,開始方寸大亂了嗎?放鬆,深呼吸。其 實,魚類不一定只可以配白酒,例如烤三文 魚搭配一些輕身,單寧不重且帶果香的Pinot Noir。不過要留意的是,如果她點叫的三文魚 配上的醬汁是牛油和忌廉奶類的,還是選擇一 瓶酒體較厚身、入桶(oaked)的Chardonnay 白酒。選擇了肉眼扒作主菜的男生,應該選 擇單寧重和個性剛強突出的紅酒,如意大利 Barolo或加州Nappa Valley的Cabernet Sauvignon,可平衡口腔中的肥美油份。 要為這個浪漫蒂克的晚上劃上完美句號,甜品 和一小杯甜酒當然是不可缺少的。再者,情人 節要有「殺手鐧」令情人為你心跳加速,說 聲我愛你,那一定要準備世界上兩種最浪漫 的食物:巧克力和葡萄酒。為巧克力和葡萄 酒配搭時,只要記住一點:巧克力的甜度永遠 不能比葡萄酒高。即是說,巧克力成份愈高 和甜度低的黑巧克力,與強悍、乾身和單寧 重的Cabernet Sauvignon,或是濃郁的砵酒 (Port)會是較合襯的一對。其他甜酒如,奶油 雪利酒(Cream Sherry)、Pedro Ximénez雪 利酒、Late harvest Tokaji 和Muscat均是可 增添浪漫感的選擇。若然你和伴侶都是嗜甜之 人,PX雪利酒的濃郁黏口和香甜酒感,將會 為你們帶來一個甜蜜的晚上,兩人只想在沙發 上依偎着對方,共渡溫馨時刻。 只要你和情人都享受與彼此一起相處的時光, 根本不用擔心如何渡情人節。一起放鬆心情, 互相珍惜對方,你的情人自會欣賞到你的誠意 及愛意。 winetimeshk.com 15


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THE WINE DOCTOR: Resurrecting the Ancient Drink of Gods: Mead 酒博士專欄:復興天神的美酒:蜂蜜酒 by Maurizio Galli

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A passionate wine aficionado and educator who believes in a non-pretentious approach to wine. Having a soft spot for obscure and exotic wine regions, he quickly gained a reputation of wine nerd under Red Mill’s umbrella.

orry Winos and Beer Bellies! Mead is almost certainly the beverage that first got humans drunk. Well sort of. A rather obscure alcoholic beverage in Hong Kong, Mead, or simply known as “fermented honey,” is very ancient with mysterious origins. Nonetheless it’s still a very festive drink and can warm you up during the short but cold Hong Kong winter while at the same time refresh the unbearable heat of summer. There are reasons to believe that Mead predates the discovery of agriculture with “evidence” suggesting a time around 15,000 to 20,000 years ago in Africa. As nomadic people wandered out of Africa and into the Mediterranean, they took with them honey, possibly bees and, unknowingly, wild yeast. This would suggest that Mead was actually not made by humans on purpose but rather, found by accident. Bees would make their nests in holes in trees, then the rainy season would come and flood the nest. Wild yeast could possibly get mixed up in it and voila: MEAD! Let’s imagine for a minute to be a nomadic hunter wandering in the woods and suddenly you are like: “Yum, honey!” And the next thing you know, you’re found by your fellow hunters hanging out in the mud, talking nonsense.

month. As Mead after such short time is generally very sweet, it is bottled to let a second fermentation in the bottle convert the remaining sugars. The time Mead ages in the bottle is up to production preferences on whether the result desired is a sweet, dry or fizzy style. In addition to that, sometimes Mead is flavoured with the addition of fruits or spices; just to add a bit more variety of styles. How to serve and drink Mead is very personal although in general you can do as follows: for Mead on the dry or fizzy side, make it as chilled as you would for a white wine. Sweeter, dessert Mead will be best at room temperature, to let the full flavour, sweetness and aroma come through. Some people like to serve both dry and sweet Mead chilled over ice directly in the glass, but again, it’s really up to personal preference. In Hong Kong, there aren’t many options for Mead, although with a bit of luck you can find a nice bottle in retail shops and online shops at a very affordable price. Maxwell Honey Mead available at www.winenthingshk.com is a good one to start with. Mead is also relatively easy to make as home-brew. Unfortunately I won’t explain how to make it, at least for now, but I will keep you posted as soon as mine is ready!

Tall tales aside, the delicious Mead is historically known as the drink of the Vikings, which they considered sacred and would consume before storming into battle to crush skulls. It was also used in weddings and fertility rituals, something that is believed might have inspired the term “Honeymoon”; Valentines this note is for you! What is Mead exactly? Well, it is just the combination of three simple ingredients: honey, water, yeast. Nothing more, nothing less! The yeast ferments the sugar in the honey converting it into alcohol (and carbon dioxide) and the final result is honey Mead. As there is sweet Mead (8 - 11% alcohol) and dry Mead (up to 18% alcohol), the fermentation time varies, but usually Mead starts showing results already after a

Image: Online

位「葡萄酒友」和「啤酒肚」聽好了, 每 蜂蜜酒(Mead)才是人類史上第一種被釀 造來的酒!大概是吧。蜂蜜酒也就是經發酵 的蜂蜜,是種淵源古老而神密的飲料,在香 港也不見得是大眾化的飲料選擇。這酒四季 合宜,在香港短暫而寒冷的冬天,喝點可令 身體暖和,而在夏天喝也可解解悶熱。 我們有理由相信,蜂蜜酒比人類開始耕種出 現得更早,根據相關的「證據」顯示,它在 一萬五千至二萬年前的非洲已經出現。當時 的遊牧民族從非洲遷徙到地中海地區,帶上 了蜜糖,很可能也帶上了蜜蜂,更不經意的 帶了些野生酵母,意外地釀造出蜂蜜酒:蜜 蜂於樹洞築蜂巢,當雨季來到,雨水有機會 淹沒樹洞,而野生酵母也可能和混當中,混 然天成的蜂蜜酒便釀造出來了! 試試幻想以下情景:你是個遊牧獵人,在樹 林中走着走着,你看到其中一個樹洞裏流着 金黃色的液體,心想:「真棒!找到蜂蜜! 」吃了過後,你被同伴發現自己正在泥濘裏 暢泳,口齒不清地說着些甚麼。 先暫時放低一下想像力,在現實中,香甜可 口的蜂蜜酒最早被紀錄於維京人的歷史中, 其當時被視為神聖的飲料。維京人在出征沙 場之前會舉杯暢飲蜂蜜酒,寄意盡早凱旋報 捷,也會在婚宴、生育慶典之上飲用;有說 「蜜月」(Honeymoon)一詞也是從之而來。 有另一伴的讀者,好好記住這點告訴你的他/ 她了! 到底甚麼是蜂蜜酒?它簡單地由三種食材混 合而成:蜂蜜、水和酵母,不多也不少!酵 母令蜂蜜中的糖分發酵,轉化成酒精(以及二 氧化碳),這便成了蜂蜜酒。蜂蜜酒可大致分 為兩種,較甜的酒精濃度為8至11%,而較 乾澀的則可達18%;兩者的發酵時間不同, 但一般來說,蜂蜜發酵一個月後已初步成為 蜂蜜酒。發酵時間較短的蜂蜜酒味道較甜, 因此會被放到瓶子裏再次發酵,令蜂蜜中的 糖分進一步轉化成酒精。至於在瓶內的發酵 時間,視乎釀酒者的喜好及風格,既可是較 甜的、較乾澀的,或是加入氣泡,亦可以加 入其他香料或水果類。每個人所愛的風格口 味各有不同,但蜂蜜酒的普遍喝法如下:較 乾澀的或有氣泡的,該像白酒般預先把酒冷 藏,而較甜的則可於室溫下享用,讓其甜味 與香氣完全浮現出來。許多人喜以在蜂蜜酒 中直接加入冰塊,不過一切也只在乎個人口 味與喜好。 香港的蜂蜜酒供應並不多,但你仍可於一些 酒品零售店或網購平台,找到價格相宜的蜂 蜜酒,Maxwell Honey Mead就是其中之 一,於winenthingshk.com有售。蜂蜜酒也 不難自行釀製,至於如何在家中釀造,在此 我不多談了,但當我的蜂蜜酒釀好時,我定 會與讀者分享!       (Christie Chan譯) winetimeshk.com 17


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“Join us for Tasting” Panel: Korean vs. German 飲食擂台:韓國 對 德國

Let’s rock wine tasting in a way other than with the “professionals”. Here we present to you our “keep it real” tasting panel, where we invite our readers to join us to taste wines and give real honest feedback. Each month, we will take wines from a particular country and take you out for dinner with your friends and all you have to do is tell us and our readers what you think of the wines and simply enjoy a delightful dinner! Riesling is doubtlessly the best known grape produced in Germany, yet this issue we also taste some other beautiful German wines with our readers besides Riesling. We have picked Korean food at Hansong in Tsim Sha Tsui to pair with the wines to see if it’s a hit or miss. Ready to read our readers’ thoughts about the wines? Just flip the page. Photography & Text by Christie Chan & Stephy Poon

有別於一貫刻板的專業酒評,WTHK每期的飲 食擂台將邀請讀者與我們一同嚐盡美酒佳餚, 讓他們寫下最真實的感受及酒評,並親身告 訴所有讀者。我們每月會挑選一個國家的葡萄 酒,宴請讀者和朋友們邊享用晚餐邊品嚐美 酒,並即席寫下和分享對酒品的想法。 德國出產的葡萄酒中,必定以Riesling最廣 為人知,但今期W THK雜誌不僅與讀者只喝 Riesling,也會嚐嚐其他種類的德國美酒。我 們邀請讀者,到位於尖沙咀的韓國菜餐廳韓 松,試試究竟兩者能否擦出火花。想知道讀者 們的第一身意見?馬上翻到下一頁! 圖文:Christie Chan & Stephy Poon

ALL WINES SUPPLIED BY CHILLED WINE 葡萄酒由Chilled Wine提供 www.chilled-wine.com

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♛TOP 1

♛TOP 2 Trenz Riesling Off-Dry 2013

Ellermann-Spiegel - Rosé Windrose 2013

Colour: Pale gold Aroma/Smell: Light and bland sweet Taste: It’s mild, not too dry. Medium-bodied with sweet apricot notes and a zesty aftertaste. Why do you like it? A well balanced wine with the sweetness and a touch of sourness. I was surprised by the taste given the lightness of the aroma. The taste still lingers at the top of my tongue after a couple of minutes. Best food pairing: Tonight’s Grilled Prawns, Rice with Fish Roe and the Andong style braised chicken all matched quite well with this wine.

Colour: Pink roses Aroma/Smell: Fruity and sexy aroma Taste: Taste of wild berries and roses. The blend is sexy Why do you like it? Its pink colour is very romantic and the blend is lovely and sexy. I like the wild berry flavors. I think this wine would be great for couples as a good aphrodisiac! Haha! Best food pairing: Since it’s a romantic wine, I would like to try to pair it with something special, may be a chocolate fondue! 顏色:玫瑰粉紅色 香氣/氣味:水果香氣而帶點性感 味道:野莓和玫瑰味道。 這酒的葡萄組合實在很性感! 為何喜歡?粉紅色的Rosé感覺浪漫, 加上葡萄組合感覺可愛且性感。另 外,它的野莓味道我也很喜歡。 我猜,這瓶Rosé可能會是情侶間的 催情劑呢!哈哈! 最佳食物配搭:這是枝浪漫的酒,應 該配上特別的食物配搭,或者試試 朱古力噴泉吧!

Tan Chiaw Tzee

Portfolio Manager 投資經理

♛TOP 1

♛TOP 2 Ellermann-Spiegel Riesling

Trenz - Riesling Off-Dry 2013

Schlabberwein 2013

Colour: Light yellow Aroma/Smell: Light fruity smell Taste: Sweet fruits with medium acidity Why do you like it? It’s smooth and light with a good acidity. I’d say it’s a well-balanced wine. Very easy to drink for some new drinkers like me. Best food pairing: Light food, may be seafood or salad. It’s good with the fruit salad and tofu dishes we had tonight. 顏色:淡黃 香氣/氣味:微微水果香 味道:水果甜味和中等酸度 為何喜歡?它入口柔和,感覺輕盈, 加上酸度足夠,是一瓶各方面都平衡 得不錯的白酒。對不常喝酒的朋友來 說,包括我,相信都很容易接受。 最佳食物配搭:簡單的食物,好像是 沙律和海鮮。今次晚餐點的水果沙律 和豆腐等輕巧菜式都不錯。

Colour: Pale yellow Aroma/Smell: Stronger smell of alcohol Taste: It was stronger at first but then became smoother and soother as time went by. The aftertaste of it was nice and long. Why do you like it? It has the complexity and layers. The texture of it is richer. I think people who like wine with a creamy style would love it. Best food pairing: Light meat. I think it went well with the grilled fish and prawns we had tonight.

Katherine Wong Assistant Financial Planner 助理財務策劃師

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顏色:淡金黃色 香氣/氣味:溫和香甜味 味道:不太乾身,整體屬於溫和輕淡 類。酒體不厚,帶著甜甜的杏脯和活 躍細長的餘韻。 為何喜歡?甜酸度配合得很好。雖然 氣味淡,但它的味道不俗,有驚喜。 餘韻味道在我的舌尖上徘徊幾分鐘還 未散去。 最佳食物配搭:今晚的烤大蝦,魚 卵飯和安東燉雞都跟這酒有不俗的 效果。

顏色:淡黃 香氣/氣味:比較濃烈的酒精氣味 味道:剛入口時味道較強烈,但時間 久了,它慢慢變得醇香,其餘韻細 長,感覺不錯。 為何喜歡?它的層次分明,質感較醇 厚,適合喜歡喝較厚身白酒的人士。 最佳食物配搭:輕巧的肉類。又或者 這次晚餐點烤銀鱈魚和烤大蝦都可 以考慮。


♛TOP 1

♛TOP 2 Daniel Pinot Noir Signature 2013

Ellermann-Spiegel Riesling Schlabberwein 2013

Colour: Light red Aroma/Smell: A bit of a mineral smell Taste: It’s dry but not too dry, polished and light. Cherry and mineral flavours with a little hint of smoke. Why do you like it? I like this wine because it is not too dry and has a mild acidity which makes people who are not Pinot Noir fans like me still find it approachable. Not complicated. It would taste even better paired with some food. Best food pairing: Besides pairing it with meats, I think it paired quite nice with tonight’s Andong style braised chicken.

Colour: Pale yellow Aroma/Smell: Fruity aromas Taste: Ripe apricot and peach flavours. Medium-bodied with medium acidity. Why do you like it? It has the creamy texture and also the just-right acidity level. The medium sweetness of this wine is very acceptable for both gals and guys. I’m sure that it can be finished easily with friends for any occasion. Best food pairing: Tonight’s Grilled Prawns, Bean sprouts and Leaf Wraps and Rice, all matched well. 顏色:淡黃色 香氣/氣味:水果香味 味道:熟透的杏脯和香桃味道。酒體 不太厚身,中等酸度。 為何喜歡?入口醇滑,酸度剛剛好。 甜度亦適中,適合一大班朋友聚會 時享用,不論是男生或女生都不會 抗拒。 最佳食物配搭:今晚的烤大蝦,大豆 芽和蔬菜包飯跟這瓶酒的配搭 都挺不錯的。

Stephy Poon

WTHK’s PR Executive WTHK公關

顏色:淺紅色 香氣/氣味:微微礦物味 味道:半乾身,輕盈易入口和順滑。 櫻桃和礦物味中帶點煙燻味道。 為何喜歡?我喜歡它不是太乾身,溫 和的酸度,令平常不太喜歡Pinot Noir 的人都會覺得它偏向平易近人,不複 雜。如果有食物搭配效果會更好。 最佳食物配搭:除了跟烤肉配搭外, 也可跟今晚的安東燉雞配上。

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♛TOP 1

♛TOP 2 Daniel Pinot Noir Signature 2013

Daniel Riesling Signature dry 2013 Colour: Light yellow Aroma/Smell: Sweet aroma Taste: Fruity wine with some refreshing lemon and lime taste. Why do you like it? It simply suits me! I like fruity white wine. It reminds me of summer time, very chill and relaxing. It’s very drinker-friendly. Best food pairing: The Grilled Prawns, Grilled Black Cod and Chuncheon style stir-fried Chicken we had tonight. Even just pair with some fruit. 顏色:淡黃 香氣/氣味:甜甜的香味 味道:清新的檸檬和青檸水果香味 為何喜歡?簡單直接的說,它很適合 我!我喜歡水果味濃郁的白酒,加上 這酒很易入口,令我聯想到 夏天,感覺悠閒和放鬆。 最佳食物配搭:今晚吃的烤銀鱈魚、 烤大蝦和春川辣炒雞排。如果簡單 點,今晚的沙律也可以。

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Colour: Light red Aroma/Smell: Fruity and slightly bitter smell Taste: Quite light, mild and not too dry. It smells bitter than it tasted. A bit of plum and dark fruit flavours. Why do you like it? I usually prefer red wine that is not too dry and this Pinot is rather light and smooth. I like how fruit-driven it is! The aftertaste of the wine is delightful. Best food pairing: I would like to have some dark chocolate to pair with.

Saiyuki Kwong Accountant 會計師

顏色:淺紅 香氣/氣味:水果香氣,也帶有點 苦澀氣味 味道:感覺輕巧柔和,不太乾身。入 口的味道沒有嗅的時候來得苦澀。有 少許梅子和黑莓類果味。 為何喜歡?我通常喜歡不太乾身的紅 酒,這枝Pinot Noir也屬於較清新易 入口的種類。我最喜歡它的偏重水果 味,收尾餘韻吸引。 最佳食物配搭:黑朱古力。


♛TOP 1

♛TOP 2 Ellermann-Spiegel Riesling

Trenz Riesling off-dry 2013

Schlabberwein 2013

Colour: Light yellow Aroma/Smell: Citrus fruits Taste: It has a nice acidity with short length. The mouth feel is smooth and creamy. Why do you like it? The acidity is just too nice! This white is light but not too light as you would soon forget what you just drank. I think it’s an advanced version of Daniel Riesling Signature dry 2013, especially on the texture. Best food pairing: Starter or appetizer like the salad we had tonight. It surely enlarges your appetite! 顏色:淡黃色 香氣/氣味:柑橘水果香氣 味道:酸度平衡很棒,餘韻 不長,口感醇滑。 為何喜歡?我很欣賞它的酸度恰到 好處!這白酒沒有過份輕身而令你 忘記它的味道。我認為它是Daniel Riesling Signature dry 2013的「進 化版」,尤其在質感方面。 最佳食物配搭:頭盤小食,例如今晚 的沙律。這樣的配搭必定令你 胃口大開!

Colour: Light yellow on the darker shade Aroma/Smell: Light fruity aromas and it sinks Taste: Not too acidic but also not too sweet. The taste is well balanced with great smooth mouth feel. Why do you like it? It is certainly not a sparkling but it feels like there are some mini tiny bubbles inside it making it feel great in the palate. The taste is neutral that everyone can take it. Best food pairing: Seafood, for example the Grilled Seafood Platter at tonight’s dinner table.

Christie chan

WTHK’s Editor WTHK編輯

♛TOP 1

♛TOP 2 Ellermann-Spiegel Rosé Windrose

Daniel Riesling Signature dry 2013

2013

Colour: Lemon gold Aroma/Smell: It smells like pineapple Taste: Mild sweet, very fruity, refreshing and it has a very balanced acidity Why do you like it? It’s very refreshing and good as a “starter wine”. Everyone can drink and finish it very quick and open more and more bottles. It helps to warm up your palate. Best food pairing: I really like the fruit salad tonight with this wine. Pairing it with a Caesar salad would be great too. 顏色:金黃色 香氣/氣味:菠蘿香味 味道:輕柔的水果甜味, 感覺清新,酸度足夠 為何喜歡?它的清新輕盈酒體,易於 接受,很適合作為餐前酒,為你的味 蕾作熱身。相信每個人都可以很快把 它喝完,開完一瓶再一瓶。 最佳食物配搭:我很喜歡今晚吃的水 果沙律和這瓶酒的搭配。另外,我想 搭配凱撒沙律也會不錯。

顏色:偏暗的淡黃色 香氣/氣味:淡淡的水果味, 但在舜間淡去 味道:不太甜也不太酸。整體味道和 口感都平衡得不錯。 為何喜歡?它顯然並非一瓶氣泡酒, 但喝它時我卻感到有些微細的氣泡在 躍動,口感為佳。它的味道自然,令 人易於接受。 最佳食物配搭:海鮮,例如今晚吃到 的烤海鮮拼盤。

Colour: Pale pink Aroma/Smell: Cherry and apple blossom Taste: Cherry and raspberry flavours with some citrus. It’s crisp and a bit dry. Why do you like it? First, I like the design of the bottle. It’s very elegant which matched well with the colour of the Rosé. Actually I don’t usually drink Rosé because I thought it might be too girlish, but this one is not girlish at all. In fact it’s more like a dry and crisp one, guys can drink too! Best food pairing: Perfect match with tonight’s Grilled Prawns! Personally, I would like to try to pair it with some French fries!

Kelvin Co

Land Surveyor 土地測量師

顏色:淺粉紅 香氣/氣味:櫻桃和蘋果花香 味道:櫻桃、覆盆子和柑橘的果味, 感覺清爽和乾身。 為何喜歡?首先,我愛這瓶酒的樽身 設計,很優雅,和Rosé的淺粉紅色很 相配。其實我不太喝Rosé,因為我 嫌它有點太女生,但幸好這瓶酒入口 是屬於較爽朗和乾身型,男生也不會 抗拒! 最佳食物配搭:今晚吃的烤大蝦!不過 我也想試試跟炸薯條一起品嚐會是怎樣!

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Text by Christie Chan 撰文:Christie Chan

E

verywhere and everything filled with red and gold denotes the arrival of Chinese New Year, which we Hong Kongers call Lunar New Year - or Spring Festival if you’re in Mainland China. Right after Valentine’s Day, the Year of the Goat begins on February 19, which is a legitimate excuse for more celebration with friends and family after the romantic date with your lover(s) the week before. It’s true that festivals and holidays keep everyone spending and CNY is no exception as gifting is one of the most crucial traditions for Chinese. Food is the most common category to gift as you can see there are piles of gift box sets of cookies, chocolate, nuts etc. in the supermarkets. Buying the same stuff every year is a bit boring and speaking from my personal experience, some food gift boxes my family and I receive during CNY remain unopened for the rest of the year. So here we would like to suggest some wines to gift and share – simply because we wine lovers can’t wait to 24 winetimeshk.com

drink up the joy and fun with beloved ones!

Drink some shiny gold

It may sound a bit of an exaggeration to literally drink gold but when it comes to CNY it’s all red and gold so a bottle of sparkling wine with gold flakes floating in it is just a super fancy gift to give. Many wineries mainly in Europe produce sparkling wines infused with gold leaves and the product is not something new, but in Hong Kong it cannot be easily purchased everywhere Osterreich Gold and AG Gold 23K sparkling wines are both from Austria and available in local wine shops and online. Most of the sparkling wines with gold flakes are nonvintage and are made in an easy-drinking style with only about 10% alcohol contents. It is definitely a CNY giveaway wine not just because it is luxurious and presentable; in Chinese culture gold implies wealth, so gifting this wine is auspicious with the blessing of good wealth.

We like it BIG

After gold it has to be red;

周泛金泛紅,到處喜氣洋洋,象徵着中 四 國傳統節日農曆新年的來臨。我們在農 曆新年最期待的,當然是連續幾天的公眾假 期!羊年的正月初一在本月19日,時間恰好 在情人節之後,讓你可與愛侶在浪漫過後,與 家人及親友聚首一堂,好好慶祝慶祝。 歡度節日固然令人高興,不過更多的假期也意 味着更多的花費,農曆新年也不例外—送禮是 傳統習俗的一部分。一般來說,我們到親友家 中拜年作客時,禮儀上習慣攜贈食品禮盒,因 此在新年期間的超級市場總是放滿了堆積如山 的新年禮盒,如曲奇餅、巧克力、果仁等等。 雖說這是傳統習俗,但每年也買着一樣的禮 品,不是過於重複嗎?說起來可能有點誇張, 但我家中曾出現過這樣的一件事:我們吃不完 親友所贈的新年食品禮盒,結果完封不動地放 在家整整一年。因此,我們建議讀者贈送酒品 予親友慶賀新年,只因愛酒的我們都等不及分 享每一滴歡欣和快樂!

喝得到的金光閃閃

金箔向來是食材的一種,相信香港人對此並不 陌生,曾吃過金箔的你,有否也同樣喝過?農 曆新年便是金箔氣泡酒大派用場的最佳時機, 金色極為配合新年節日氣氛,用以送禮亦盡 顯貴氣。這種酒並非全新產品,全球不少酒 莊均有釀造(以歐洲的酒莊為主),不過在香港 購買這種酒卻不是易事,當中你可在店舖或網 購平台找到的兩款酒均釀自奧地利,分別是 Osterreich Gold和AG Gold 23K。大部分金


we are not talking about a standard bottle of 750mL red wine, but a magnum bottle containing 1.5L of wine. “The more the better” and “the bigger the better” are some of the Chinese perceptions and this is applied to almost every aspect of everything. It is not very often that we get to open a magnum bottle; after all it equals to two standard bottles of wine which cannot be easily finished by a small group of two to three people. So as we welcome CNY it is the best occasion to drink a magnum bottle because all the family members gather for festive greetings and thus there will be more than enough people to share the bottle with. Like the sparkling wine with gold flakes, it also has the “wow effect” as a gift.

Keep us in shape

There’s no way you can give up on traditional CNY delights such as New Year Cakes (sticky rice cakes), Turnip Cakes, Taro Cakes, Tang Yuan (rice balls made with glutinous rice flour), Yau Kok (deep fried dumplings) and a lot more! But there’s also a down side – most of the food is fried or deep fried containing a lot of calories with heavy tastes – which means you have to get ready to spend more hours at the gym. But we can’t eat without drinking, can we? Picking white wines containing 9% to 12% alcohol can be a compromise because they tend to be low-calorie wines. For whites, Muscadet and Alsace Blanc from France would be great choices as these style whites go well with oily food; for reds, which contain slightly more calories than whites, Burgundy and

箔氣泡酒是以非單一年份收成的葡萄所釀製 (Non-vintage),其味道風格通常比較容易入 喉,大約只含10%的酒精成分。金箔氣泡酒作 為賀年禮品,不僅名貴而體面十足,更能寓意 金玉滿堂、招財進寶、財源滾滾,是極為好意 頭的送禮佳品。

愈「大」愈好

Barolo would be ideal wine regions to look for. Not your favourite? Never mind and just drink whatever you like and work out harder later!

Go with Chinese Liquors

How can Chinese liquors be missed out when Chinese people had celebrated Lunar New Year with them since ancient times? Basically they are categorized into two main types, Baijiu and Huangjiu. The former is distilled and sorghum-based (but some can be distilled from Huangjiu) with above 40% alcohol and the latter is fermented from grains containing about 20% alcohol without distillation. Unless you and your family are hardcore drinkers, Baijiu sounds a little bit too much for a family reunion dinner. So Huangjiu would be a better option and among the varieties of it, Huadiao is always my favourite that can be drunk at room temperature as well as warmed. Its taste is rather sweet and matches well with seafood dishes which we would have during CNY. It is often used in Chinese cooking too and you might have already tasted it in some Chinese cuisine before. After all it might be the most easydrinking Chinese liquor so just give a try. Rather than wine just as a gift or a drink at a meal, it’s always the best to have friends and family to share it with. Additionally, Chinese New Year and many other festivals and holidays are reminders for us to spend more quality time with the ones we love. Remember that and we all can have a Happy Chinese New Year! Kung Hei Fat Choy!

介紹過「喝得到的金」,怎能少了「紅」?你 可能猜得對,紅是指紅酒,不過卻不是一枝 標準容量750毫升的紅酒,而是1.5公升容量 的大酒瓶(Magnum)。「愈大愈好」及「愈多 愈好」均是普遍中國人的傳統思想,恭賀語句 有如大吉大利、百子千孫等等,也反映中國人 喜愛「大」且「多」。一枝大酒瓶的容量等同 兩枝標準酒瓶的容量,如果只與一兩個知己共 喝,或許不能輕易喝掉整枝大酒瓶的紅酒。農 曆新年時,家人親友濟濟一堂,最適合開枝不 常喝到的大酒瓶,所謂「人多好辦事」,可能 更可一同喝上幾枝大酒瓶呢。大酒瓶容量的紅 酒同樣是送禮佳品,光是看到這份禮物便令人 「嘩」一聲的讚嘆起來。

窈窕體態 人人好「求」

賀年食品「以肥見稱」,年糕、蘿蔔糕、芋頭 糕、湯圓、油角等,無一不油膩且含高熱量。 但是,吃賀年食品不只為了應節,你真的能在 美食當前堅決忍口嗎?我投降。寧可在吃過高 卡路里的賀年美食後,多做運動去保持身形, 總比錯過美食好!不過,在大快朵頤之際又豈 能欠缺美酒?喝只含9%至12%的白酒可以是 個折衷的辦法,其中所含的卡路里相對較低。 白酒方面,法國的Muscadet和 Alsace Blanc 會是好的選擇,低卡之餘與較油膩的賀年食品 很配搭;至於相對略為高卡的紅酒,我們建 議享用法國的勃艮地(Burgundy)及意大利的 Barolo。上述的葡萄酒也不是你所愛的?不要 緊,只管盡情喝你所愛的酒吧!一年只得一次 農曆新年,在這之後多做運動便行了。

來點中國酒

傳統上,中國人慶祝農曆新年就是喝中國酒, 我們又怎能不應節喝點中國酒呢?中國酒大致 上可分為兩種,分別是白酒和黃酒,前者以高 粱釀造,經蒸餾而成,也有部分從黃酒蒸餾變 成白酒,其酒精含量超過40%;而後者則由穀 類發酵釀造,亦不會經過蒸餾程序,其酒精含 量約為20%。除非你和家人好友的酒量屬「 海量級別」,否則於團年飯上喝白酒實在太「 劥」(粵音:kang,酒太烈、嗆鼻的意思)了, 因此黃酒比較合適全家人���用。個人而言,黃 酒之中的花雕酒是我的最愛,既可在室溫下飲 用,亦可在溫熱後才喝。它的味道較甜,與海 鮮配合不過,而且也是烹調中國菜時常用的調 味品。總而言之,花雕酒屬入門級的中國酒, 一試無妨! 酒品不論作為禮品還是餐飲,與家人朋友分享 美酒必定是一大樂事。不只是農曆新年,其實 每一個節日也在提醒我們,要妥善分配時間, 抽空陪伴家人和我們所愛的每位。把這點銘記 於心,也就能與他們共度一個歡樂無比的農曆 新年! winetimeshk.com 25


• • • • • • • • • • • • • •

In 2014, the United States produced 22.5 million hectolitres of wine making it the 4th largest producer of the year 在2014年,美國成為全球第四大的葡萄酒生產國,共生產了225億公升葡萄酒 The most popular varietals drunk in the USA are: #1 Chardonnay; #2 Cabernet; #3 Merlot 在美國最受歡迎的葡萄品種為:#1 Chardonnay;#2 Cabernet;#3 Merlot There are wineries in all 50 states in the US, led by California, New York, Washington and Oregon 美國的酒莊分佈於50個州份,當中以加州、紐約、華盛頓及俄亥俄為主要生產葡萄酒的州份 The United States is the largest wine retail market in the world according to the U.S. Department of Commerce 據美國商務部的資料顯示,美國為全球最大的葡萄酒市場 Year on year, wine consumption is growing steadily in the US and they are the largest consumer of wine in the world 按年計算,美國的葡萄酒消耗量增長穩定,同時也是全球最大的葡萄酒消耗國 Approximately two thirds of wine consumed in America is produced in America 粗略計算,約三分二的美國葡萄酒由該國消耗 On January 1 2015, wineries in other US states can finally now ship wines into the state of Massachusetts directly to the consumer 自2015年1月1日起,不同州份的酒莊獲准直接把葡萄酒運送到麻省的消費者手上

Regions: 地區 Regions: 地區

Attributes: 相關屬性

North Coast 北岸 (Napa Valley 納帕谷, Sonoma County 索諾馬郡, Mendocino County 門多西諾縣) • • • • • • • • • • • •

Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Home to over half of California’s wineries Coolest temperature region of California Napa Valley produces 4% of the regions wines and is also a culinary tourism destination There are more than 600 wineries in Napa Valley as of 2014 Sonoma County is the largest producer of Pinot Noir in the state Vines were first planted in Mendocino County in the 1850’s 一半或以上的加州葡萄酒均產於此 加州內溫度最清涼的地區 納帕谷生產4%的加州葡萄酒,也是飲食旅 遊勝地 至2014年為止,有超過600個酒莊位於納帕 谷 索諾馬郡是全國Pinot Noir的最大生產區 門多西諾縣的葡萄藤於1850年代被首次種植

Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir

Top Producers: Colgin Estate (Napa), Diamond Creek (Calisto著名酒莊 ga), Duckhorn Vineyards (St. Helena), Far Niente (Oakville), Saracina Vineyards (Hopland) Regions: 地區

Attributes: 相關屬性

Southern California 加州南部 (Temecula Valley 蒂梅丘拉谷, San Diego County 聖地牙哥郡, Los Angeles 洛杉磯) • • • • • • • •

Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Attributes: 相關屬性

• • • • • • Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Huge agricultural yield producing 8% of America’s agricultural yield Everything from almonds, apricots, tomatoes, asparagus and of course grapes Lodi hosts the annual wine fair “Zin Fest” Sacramento Valley was founded by Spanish explorers in the 1500’s San Joaquin Valley stretches from Modesto in the North to the Tehachapi Mountains in the South 高農產量地區,生產全美國農作物總產量的8% 農作物包括杏仁、杏脯、蕃茄、蘆筍,葡萄當 然也在其中 一年一度的品酒節「Zin Fest」恆常於洛迪舉行 薩克拉門托河谷於1500年代由西班牙探險隊 所建立 佛雷斯諾谷的範圍由北邊的莫德斯托延伸到南 邊的蒂哈查皮山脈

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Petite Syrah

Top Producers: E&J Gallo (San Joaquin Valley), Delicato Vineyards 著名酒莊 (San Joaquin Valley), Lodi Wine Cellars (Lodi), Bogle Vineyards (Clarksburg) Regions: 地區

Attributes: 相關屬性

Central Coast 中海岸 (Paso Robles 帕索羅布爾, Santa Barbara County 聖塔芭芭拉郡, Santa Cruz Mountains 聖塔克魯斯山脈) • • • • • • • • • • • •

Chardonnay, Merlot, Zinfandel

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The highest Californian vineyard elevation is situated in San Diego at 4,400 feet above sea level San Diego has a temperate Mediterranean climate The Los Angeles area is inhabited by hundreds of celebrities, many of whom own wineries Temecula Valley has been growing grapes for wine since the late 1700’s, and also known for Rhone and Italian varietals 全加州最高海拔的葡萄園位於聖地牙哥,處於 海平面4,400呎之上 聖地牙哥具溫和的地中海氣候 有不少擁有酒莊的名人居於洛杉磯 蒂梅丘拉谷自1700年代起便開始種植葡萄來 釀酒,當中以Rhone及意大利的葡萄品種最 有名

Top Producers: Malibu Family Wines (Malibu), Bel Vino Winery 著名酒莊 (Temecula), Miramonte Winery (Temecula)

Inland Valleys 內陸山谷 (Lodi 洛迪, Sacramento Valley 薩克拉門托河谷, San Joaquin Valley 佛雷斯諾谷)

Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Vines in the Central Coast were first planted in the 1700’s by Franciscan Monks walking El Camino Real Paso Robles is emerging as the best place in California for Rhone varietals 80% of wines produced in the region are red wines 25% of all Santa Barbara County red wines are Pinot Noir The Santa Cruz Mountain range is one of rugged terrain and high elevation Sadly also known for many mass-produced bulk wine producers 方濟和尚於1700年代行經「王室大道」(El Camino Real)時,在中海岸種植了首枝葡萄藤 帕索羅布爾正被打造為加州最佳種植Rhone 葡萄品種的地區 此區出產的葡萄酒逾八成為紅酒 聖塔芭芭拉郡出產的紅酒中,25%為Pinot Noir 聖塔克魯斯山脈地勢崎嶇,海拔亦高 此產區不幸地也因大量釀造葡萄酒的生產商集 中於此而聞名

Zinfandel, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon

Top Producers: Bonny Doon (Davenport), Equinox (Santa Cruz), 著名酒莊 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards (Santa Cruz), Au Bon Climat (Santa Barbara County), Ridge Vineyards (Santa Clara County)


Regions: 地區

Attributes: 相關屬性

Sierra Foothills 謝拉丘陵 (El Dorado County 埃爾多拉多郡, Nevada County 內華達郡, Calaveras County 卡拉韋拉斯縣) • • • • • • • •

Top Grape Varieties: 著名葡萄品種

Area includes Yosemite National Park – an area of outstanding natural beauty Home to Lake Tahoe – the best place to go for Spring break (Easter holidays)! The region was the epicentre of the California Gold Rush Over 50 grape varietals are grown in the area 超過50種葡萄品種生長於此產區 從前加州曾有過淘金熱,此產區正時當時的淘 金熱點的最中心 此區為太皓湖的所在地,春天時到此度假是最 好不過的事(復活節假期)! 優勝美地國家公園位於此區,顧名思義,其自 然景色令人嘆為觀止

Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot

Top Producers: Perry Creek Winery (Fair Play), Pilot Peak Winery 著名酒莊 (Penn Valley), Zucca Mountain Vineyards (Vallecito), Brice Station Vintners (Calaveras County)

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28 winetimeshk.com


TOP 10

Wine Retail s e Websit

十大 酒品網購平台

T

he digital age may be well and truly here but it is yet to really gain much traction with online wine sales in Hong Kong. Compared to our mainland neighbours, we spend but a fraction of the amount of money on wine online than they do as we are yet to embrace the internet here for buying wine because we are a small city and blissfully ignorant (read happy) with the generally meagre, commercial selection we currently have at street level retail – sure there are some great retail shops in the city, but if you don’t live near one you won’t be visiting one. That’s where the problem lies in Hong Kong. Brick and mortar retail shops are just too expensive to run – mainly because selling wines really is not that profitable – and the need to pay staff, rent, air conditioning etc even before you have sold one bottle makes it a daunting business. An online platform negates these costs and those with a little bit of savvy have already got well established wine sales websites in the city. We worry for those that do not because the future of wine sales in Hong Kong is most certainly online (unless we see government regulation on rents or landlords suddenly grow an ounce of empathy in their bodies). Those not online as we head into 2015 will be the losers when the half time whistle blows; that is, when people stop paying extortionate restaurant prices and start bringing their own wines to dine with. As the on-trade looks to struggle its way through the second half of this decade, the future looks bright for the online trade. So, for our Wine Times readers we have taken what we think are the best wine websites in the city – that is those from importers who exclusively import the brands they sell; no parallel imports, no fake wines, no scams or rip offs. We did it online back in 2013 on our website and things have changed a lot since then – designs have changed (mostly for the better but some for the worse), prices have generally gone up (but not extortionately), wine selections have got broader and new players have come to the market. So check out our Top 10 Online Wine Retailers and next time you’re sitting in front of your computer, give them a look as you may actually be tempted to give buying wine online a try.

www.ginsbergchan.com

Ginsberg+Chan

Offers and Promotions: 8 優惠及推廣 Ease of Use: 7 易於使用 Wine Selection: 8 酒品選擇 Visual: 6 網頁設計 Pricing: 8 價格 Multilingual: YES 有否提供多種語言:有

37

代人的生活現已離不開電子科技,而網上購 物更成為生活的一部分。不過對於網上購買 酒品,卻仍未算是香港人的日常習慣。比起內地 消費者,香港人並不活躍於網購酒品,原因在於 香港是個交通便利的小城市,往往容易地找到有 售酒品的實體店鋪購物。雖然城中普遍商鋪的酒 品選擇既貧乏且過於商業化,但大部分本地消費 者似乎也樂於接受(也許是容易滿足),即使有個別 貨品選擇多而服務優良的零售商鋪,但其位置離 顧客居住地點較遠,相信多數人也不會專誠到訪 該店購物。 這也就是香港酒市場的其中一個問題。經營以磚 頭疊起的實體店鋪費用高昂,主要因為賣酒生意 並不如想像般利錢豐厚,加上工資、鋪租、水電 等固定基本開支,營運一所酒品零售實體店鋪確 不是易事。由於建立網上購物平台可免去上述開 支,有不少精明的商家早早看準商機,數年前已 開始為顧客提供網購酒品服務。 當網購變得越來越火紅,單靠店面零售而還未發 展網購的商鋪,其前景令人憂慮(除非政府遏止樓 價高企的措施真的有效,又或者地產霸權突然良 心發現而降低租金)。來到2015年,當許多食客不 想在餐廳點叫價格較高的酒品,外出用餐會帶上 自行挑選的酒品時,還未發展網上業務的酒零售 商很可能成為大輸家。 有見及此,今期W THK為眾多讀者搜羅多個優 質的網上購酒平台,也就是不售水貨、次貨、 假酒,做誠實買賣且提供獨家代理酒品的網 站。WTHK網站曾於2013年與讀者分享過類似的 資訊,但經過時間發展,許多網站的設計現已改 頭換貌(大部分比之前更好,但也有些退步了),雖 然酒價上升,但葡萄酒的選擇也多了,同時也有 不少新的競爭對手加入市場。現在就來讀讀《十 大酒品網購平台》,說不定你讀過後,也會想試 試網購酒品,享受箇中的方便與樂趣。

Ginsberg+Chan’s website has become slightly harder to use over the last year but it is still full of a great range of wines. In fact, we recommend you get on their mailing list as their offers through email are excellent. Not the prettiest site in the city, but certainly one of the best. Look out for their excellent back vintages selections; 37/50 Ginsberg+Chan網站自去年以來變得有點不好用,不 過其酒品選擇仍然豐富。我們建議讀者到網站登記訂閱 有關優惠的電郵,因為網站所提供的優惠的確很不錯。 雖然網站設計不算是最好,但肯定是香港最佳酒品網購 平台之一。可留意這網站較舊年份的葡萄酒,其存貨良 好。分數:37/50

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Top 10 Wine Retail Websites www.cellarmasterwines.com

Cellarmaster Wines

41

A vastly improved website over the last year Cellarmas-

ter Wines is all about offers and promotions. An easy to Offers and Promotions: 9 use site with a decent range of wines, spirits, beers and 優惠及推廣 ciders from around the world we see big things ahead for Ease of Use: 8 this potential market leader online. No free delivery but 易於使用 that seems normal in Hong Kong but overall, an excellent website. A very well justified 41/50 and one to watch in Wine Selection: 8 酒品選擇 2015. Visual: 8 網頁設計 自去年進行改革後,Cellarmaster Wines提供多不勝數 的優惠及推廣,而網站設計亦非常方便瀏覽者購物。不 Pricing: 8 價格 論是產自世界各地的葡萄酒、烈酒、啤酒,還是有氣果 酒,此網站通通一應俱全,可見其具發展潛力,成為行 Multilingual: YES 有否提供多種語言:有 業的「一哥」。如香港一般的網購平台一樣,此網站不 設免費送貨,但總而言之它是個一流的酒品網購平台, Free Delivery: For purchases over 值得讀者們多加留意,所以我們給予41/50的高分。 HK$800 (otherwise HK$50) 送貨服務條款:購物滿$800提供免 費送貨(貨款不足則收取$50運送費用)

One of the newer websites in the city with some excellent www.victoriawines.com.hk wines from around the world but especially from Spain and the New World. Good value wines are found all over Offers and Promotions: 8 the site and delivery is easy for a company that does its 優惠及推廣 own deliveries (you might have seen their truck around Ease of Use: 8 易於使用 town!) Overall, one that we would use repeatedly so it Wine Selection: 7 gets a good score of 39/50 此網站是香港其中一個較新成立的酒品網購平台,提供 產自各國的美酒,特別是西班牙及新世界的葡萄酒。酒 品的性價比尚算高,而且他們親自包辦送貨服務,可以 避免到貨時的閃失(他們有自己的貨車隊,可能你在馬路 上已經見過呢!)。總的來說,消費者常會到訪這個網站 購物,因此給予一個好分數39/50。

酒品選擇 Visual: 8 網頁設計 Pricing: 8 價格 Multilingual: NO 有否提供多種語言:沒有 Free Delivery: For purchases over HK$1,000 (otherwise HK$50) 送貨服務條款:購物滿$1,000提供免 費送貨(貨款不足則收取$50運送費用)

www.wineshopasia.com

Wine Shop Asia

40 30 winetimeshk.com

Offers and Promotions: 9 優惠及推廣 Ease of Use: 8 易於使用 Wine Selection: 8 酒品選擇 Visual: 8 網頁設計 Pricing: 7 價格 Multilingual: NO 有否提供多種語言:沒有 Free Delivery: For purchases over HK$800 (otherwise HK$60) 送貨服務條款:購物滿$800提供免 費送貨(貨款不足則收取$60運送費)

Victoria Wines

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Certainly one of the top wine websites in the city and one for a great deal of promotions and special offers. Subscribe to their mailing list for great offers too, especially on mixed cases. They have great marketing prowess and the site is pretty user friendly. A very respectable 40/50 to another that will certainly figure in the future of Hong Kong’s online wine scene. 想取得更多的推廣資訊及特別優惠?Wine Shop Asia 定是城中最好的酒品網購平台之一,切勿忘記登記訂閱 提供優惠的電郵。他們擁有強大的市場實力,網站也易 於使用,相信這間公司的發展會為網上零售酒業帶來希 冀,值得給予40/50的高分數。


十大酒品網購平台 Although there are very few decent – and very few overall www.kerrywines.com – special offers, we still like the Kerry Wines website. Not impressed with the minimum order amount honestly but Offers and Promotions: 5 優惠及推廣 it’s likely just a reflection of the price of their wines. A good selection of non-brand name wines so you have to Ease of Use: 8 易於使用 know what you are buying but we give it a respectable Wine Selection: 7 34/50 overall. 雖然此網站未有提供很多特別優惠,或說是整體而言也 沒有甚麼優惠,但它仍是我們喜愛的酒品網購平台之 一。我們對於其設定的最低消費並不感到意外,這也可 從貨品價格上反映得到。它提供許多非大品牌的葡萄 酒,因此決定購買酒品時要多加留意有關資訊。整體分 數:34/50

www.slurp.asia

Slurp

39

酒品選擇 Visual: 7 網頁設計 Pricing: 7 價格 Multilingual: YES 有否提供多種語言:有 Free Delivery: For purchases over $1,400 (otherwise HK$80) 送貨服務條款:購物滿$1,400提供免 費送貨(貨款不足則收取$80運送費用)

Kerry Wines

34

It seems only yesterday that Slurp launched in Hong Kong but it has been a few years now. The site has not changed or evolved much in this time however although their deals on back vintage wines and wines you can find on other websites are good and priced very accommodatingly. Much more special offers available through subscription to their site but for this year we give it 39/50.

Offers and Promotions: 8 優惠及推廣 Ease of Use: 8 易於使用 Wine Selection: 8 酒品選擇 Slurp網站彷彿昨天才面世,但事實上它在幾年前已開始 Visual: 7 網頁設計 營運了,而且幾年來也沒有太大改變。它提供不少陳舊 年份的葡萄酒,選擇多而價值相宜。登記訂閱電郵可獲 Pricing: 8 價格 取更多優惠,此網站今年的得分為39/50。 Multilingual: YES 有否提供多種語言:有 Free Delivery: For purchases over HK$1,000 (otherwise HK$40) 送貨服務條款:購物滿$1,000提供免 費送貨(貨款不足則收取$40運送費用)

Although it may seem hard to justify why you would buy from Watson’s online as they have so many retail shops in town, if you live in an area outside the main business districts the website offers you a wealth of wines that would never be put in a retail shop outside of town. Again, the minimum delivery price is rather high – but with the amount of fine wines on their site it should be easy to reach! 38/50 香港幾乎各區都有Watson’s Wine的實體零售店,因 此你幾乎不會在他們的網購平台購酒。不過,如果你居 住地點並非位於商業旺區,你可以瀏覽一下此網站,因 為他們提供不少只在旺區店鋪才有售的葡萄酒。提供免 費送貨的最低消費額有點高,但他們有供應的美酒多不 勝數,相信購物時不難達到所需金額!分數:38/50

www.watsonswine.com

Offers and Promotions: 7 優惠及推廣 Ease of Use: 8 易於使用 Wine Selection: 9 酒品選擇 Visual: 8 網頁設計 Pricing: 6 價格 Multilingual: YES 有否提供多種語言:有 Free Delivery: For purchases over HK$1,600 (otherwise HK$80) 送貨服務條款:購物滿$1,600提供免 費送貨(貨款不足則收取$80運送費用)

Watson’s Wine

38 winetimeshk.com 31


Top 10 Wine Retail Websites      十大酒品網購平台 www.pudaowines.com

Pudao Wines

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Jebsen Fine Wines have always had a website but it was arguably the hardest one in the city to use. Thankfully, they have changed this and the site is now much more ergonomic (but still not excellent) and they could still do with giving it a lick of paint as it’s a rather dull site with very little visual stimulation. A good selection of wines overall though and some great special offers; 35/50 Jebsen Fine Wines的網站一直都在,卻可算是一眾酒 品網購平台中最難以使用、最複雜的一個,幸好他們已 作出初步改變,雖然還未算得上是優秀,但總算是個「 普通人能夠瀏覽閱讀」的網站。我們建議網站在設計上 可添加點顏色,增強視覺效果以刺激點撃率。它提供的 美酒選擇及特別優惠也算多。分數:35/50

www.jebsenfinewines.com

Offers and Promotions: 8 優惠及推廣 Ease of Use: 易於使用 Wine Selection: 8 酒品選擇 Visual: 6 網頁設計 Pricing: 7 價格 Multilingual: NO 有否提供多種語言:沒有 Free Delivery: For purchases over HK$1,000 (otherwise HK$80) 送貨服務條款:購物滿$1,000提供免 費送貨(貨款不足則收取$80運送費用)

www.winenthingshk.com

Wine N Things

40 32 winetimeshk.com

Pudao Wines is the newest website on our list and can be

forgiven for ‘finding their feet’ when it comes to special Offers and Promotions: 0 offers. There is a glaring lack of them on the site and this 優惠及推廣 should be the first thing that many look for on a wine Ease of Use: 7 website. Expect this to change and expect Pudao (with 易於使用 offices all over Greater China) to be a major player in due Wine Selection: 8 course. 31/50 – even with no special offers. 酒品選擇 Visual: 8 Pudao Wines網站可謂全城最新的網站,但在網站上卻 網頁設計 找不到任何「推廣及優惠」的蹤影。許多人瀏覽網頁時 Pricing: 8 都先查看「著數優惠」,欠缺了也就令消費者的購物慾 價格 大減,明顯反映網站的不足。我們期望Pudao(其辦公室 Multilingual: YES 處於中國大陸)會作出改善,在不久的將來成為有實力的 有否提供多種語言:有 市場競爭者。即使沒有提供優惠,它仍然取得31/50的 Free Delivery: For purchases over 分數。 HK$1,000 (otherwise $130) 送貨服務條款:購物滿$1,000提供免 費送貨(貨款不足則收取$130運送費用)

Jebsen

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Wine N Things is a fun and colourful site with great spe-

cial offers on New World wines. There are very few old Offers and Promotions: 8 word wines – which is fine if you are a purveyor of easy 優惠及推廣 drinking sparkling, whites and reds from South Africa, Ease of Use: 8 New Zealand and Australia. They have incorporated some 易於使用 excellent Lebanese wines on the site too (they also have Japanese wine too) but if it’s French wines you’re looking Wine Selection: 8 for you won’t find them here. Great site all told; 40/50 酒品選擇 Visual: 8 Wine N Things網站設計吸引,其介面有趣而顏色奪 網頁設計 目。它提供許多新世界的葡萄酒,並且也給予客戶特別 Pricing: 8 優惠,不過產自舊世界的葡萄酒選擇則不多。若你喜 價格 歡產自南非、紐西蘭及澳洲、比較容易入喉的各種葡萄 Multilingual: NO 酒,瀏覽這網站可不會出錯!他們也供應來自黎巴嫩的 有否提供多種語言:沒有 葡萄酒,而日本酒也於網頁上有售。不過,如果你想買 Free Delivery: For purchases over 得法國葡萄酒,那你便會「食白果」了。三個字:好網 HK$1,000 (otherwise HK$120) 送貨服務條款:購物滿$1,000提供免 站。分數:40/50 費送貨(貨款不足則收取$120運送費用)


Desert Island Wines

出走何用帶上酒? 你想到「葡萄酒集中地」,必然先會想 當 到倫敦、紐約、悉尼這些大城市,但說 到亞洲地區,香港也就當之無愧。不過,品嚐

Text by Ali Nicol

譯文:Christie Chan

W

hen one thinks of ‘wine-hubs’, cities such as London, New York and Sydney often spring to mind but of course, here in Asia Hong Kong is the city that holds that title. But overall around the country, drinking wine is concentrated in the more affluent, restaurant driven areas where people with higher disposable income dwell, work and commute to and from. Mui Wo on Lantau Island is not currently one of those places but there is a changing demographic to the town that used to be all about sandals, cans of Carlsberg, shorts and tank tops. There are a younger generation of both expats and locals moving into and living there and while the government and local entrepreneurs re-develop the town, the house prices are slowly rising bringing inhabitants that are possibly more suited to life in Mid-Levels than in a town whose majority population on a week day could well be the buffaloes. For years the only place to get a bottle of wine in Mui Wo was in either of the two supermarkets there – Wellcome and Park N Shop – but recently its first wine retail shop opened with a view to offer residents of Mui Wo more than just the average bottle of plonk that has probably been sitting on the supermarket shelf since the days of Governor Chris Patten. Of course, many residents of the island as a whole do commute to work on a daily basis and many buy their wine in town, but for those that don’t and for those that need that bottle of wine last minute there is always Island Wines. The new little shop is conve-

niently located not near the ferry pier but near the more inhabited area of Mui Wo – right next to the Silvermine Beach Resort hotel. Whilst it is not a huge shop, it does offer the wine drinker something different. There are no New World wines there so those lovers of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc can still go to Wellcome but there are an interesting array of boutique French, Italian, Portuguese and Spanish wines alongside some interesting fortified wines from Crimea and sparkling wines from both Italy and the Ukraine. Owner Andrey Bogdanov wants to have wines that people will both appreciate for their uniqueness, their ability to match well with food and their drinking ability at both beaches and barbecues. As the store is just a stone’s throw from the beach, weekend revellers often pick up a bottle of chilled white to drink while sunbathing or a bottle of red to go with that steak that’s going on the BBQ later. One very cool thing about the shop – it sells an entire kit that enables you to make Paella. With wines in tow, grab a Paella pan, rice and saffron from the shop and get a Paella going on one of the public BBQ’s by the beach – could there be a better way to spend the summer? We think not! Alternatively, you can order both the kit and the wines either online or by phone and they will deliver it to your home (on Lantau only of course!) Island Wines is located at Shop G11, Silver Plaza, 8 Chung Shing Street, Mui Wo, Lantau Island (Tel: 9521 8481) and is open 7 days a week from 1pm to 8pm for both inshop sales and home deliveries.

美酒的飲者普遍只出現在人流多、餐廳林立的 旺區,大概是因為他們的人均收入較高,在經 濟上亦較能負擔,自然衣食住行也圍繞着這些 地段。 梅窩顯然並非上述的旺區之一,不少人對其印 象總是「踢住拖,着住背心短褲,飲幾罐裝嘉 士伯」的情景,充滿着度假式的悠閒,不過近 年來這個小社區卻有所轉變。由於香港樓價高 企,加上政府及商家擕手重建梅窩社區,使之 變得更加完善。因此,不少外籍及本土年輕一 族在選擇住所時,漸漸把目光放在這個平日「 水牛比居民還多」的小社區。 多年來,在梅窩有售葡萄酒的地方只限於兩所 超級市場,分別是百佳和惠康,其所供應的葡 萄酒品,很可能由前香港總督彭定康時代至今 一直沒有任何改變。不過,我們現為大家帶來 好消息—梅窩首間酒零售店舖Island Wines開 張了!雖然許多居民於市區上班,也會於順道 於下班後購買酒品,但該店的葡萄酒選擇一定 比超市為多,對沒有外出或急於購買葡萄酒的 居民而言極為方便。 這間小店位於銀鑛灣渡假酒店旁,而非較遠離 住宅地的碼頭一帶,所提供的葡萄酒也較為別 開生面,包括產自法國、意大利、葡萄牙及西 班牙精品酒莊的葡萄酒,更特別的是克里米亞 的加烈葡萄酒,以及意大利及烏克蘭的氣泡 酒。這店未有提供任何新世界葡萄酒品,喜歡 紐西蘭Sauvignon Blanc的客人仍可選擇光顧 超市。 店主Andrey Bogdanov希望顧客能從他所提 供的葡萄酒中,欣賞到其獨特性,能夠配搭 不同類型的美食,又或是帶到沙灘或燒烤時 享用。店舖位置與銀鑛灣沙灘只有十步之距, 不論是到沙灘曬日光浴,想要買一枝預先冷藏 過的白酒的你,還是準備享受燒烤樂,需要一 枝紅酒配烤牛扒的你,也能在這店找到你所需 的,好好於周末狂歡一番。 最特別之處是,你可在這店買得到煮西班牙海 鮮炒飯的食材和一系列用具。等到夏天來臨, 在這兒買上幾枝酒、一個大鍋、西班牙米和番 紅花,即興地在海邊的燒烤場煮西班牙海鮮炒 飯,定能帶給你無窮樂趣!當然,你也可以透 過網站或電話訂購有關用具,他們提供大嶼山 地區的送貨服務。 Island Wines店舖地址為大嶼山梅窩涌盛街 8號銀礦廣場地下G11號舖(聯絡電話:9521 8481),其營業時間為每天下午1時至晚上8 時,營業時間內提供店內零售或送貨服務。 winetimeshk.com 33


Wine Spotlight:

Château Margaux’s Paul Pontallier 聚光燈:瑪歌酒莊的釀酒師Paul Pontallier

Text & Photography by Ali Nicol 譯文:Christie Chan 攝影:Ali Nicol

T

here are few Bordeaux chateaux as revered as Château Margaux. A first growth wine (Premier Cru Classé) since the inception of the 1855 Médoc Classification, the winery has championed and pioneered Bordeaux wines for 160 years. The forerunner in the latest pioneering winemaking and winery techniques the winery matches tradition with modernity in a bid to constantly make better wines so that Bordeaux wine lovers of the world will have a benchmark to pit the other wines they drink against.

所有法國波爾多的酒莊中,少有如瑪 在 歌酒莊(Château Margaux)般地位 如此受人推崇。自1855年被名列為法國

的一級酒莊(Premier Cru Classé)後,瑪 歌酒莊於這160年間不僅釀造出世界頂級 的波爾多葡萄酒,同時也領導着此產區的 葡萄酒發展。身為行內的「一哥」,瑪歌 酒莊在釀酒技術方面,力圖把現代科技融 合到傳統釀酒方法之中,歷年不斷釀造出 更優質的葡萄酒,成為喜愛波爾多葡萄酒 的人眼中的指標,令其他不少葡萄酒被比 下去。 winetimeshk.com 35


HISTORY The 16th century is the time when, in 1570 Pierre de Lestonnac expanded and cleared the land which the Château owned to make way for the vines that were to make this iconic wine. Fast forward 135 years and in 1705 a wine called Margose went under the hammer and was advertised in the London Gazette. Then, the Margaux 1771 was the first ‘claret’ to be featured in auction house, Christie’s catalogue. Throughout the first 10 years of the 1800’s, the Château was rebuilt and earned the moniker of “the Versailles of the Médoc”. Of course, 1855 saw Napoléon III create the Médoc Classification and then, at the end of the 19th century, testing times as Bordeaux’s wine industry was brought to its knees by phyloxerra – a pest that wiped out almost all the vineyards in the area. In 1977 the Château was purchased by André Mentzelopoulos whose daughter Corrine is now at the helm and she was joined by Paul Pontallier in 1983 who was later named Managing Director in 1990. The Château is still in the hands of Corrine Mentzelopoulos and these days, Paul Pontallier is now Wine Director and has been overseeing the making of these iconic wines for over 30 years.

THE WINES The Château is most famed for its red wines and namely its top wine simply called Grand Vin de Château Margaux. The wines are Cabernet Sauvignon dominant and each bottle of the top wine is a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and sometimes, Cabernet Franc. Grand Vin de Château Margaux wines are not cheap – they retail in Hong Kong for around HK$6,500 for the 2010 vintage. Their second wine is called Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux and they also make a white wine called Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux. Their ‘third wine’ is called Margaux de Château Margaux which was introduced to the world in 1997. INNOVATION Château Margaux is the only top French Bordeaux chateau to hold an office in Hong Kong and it is run by Paul’s son Thibault. Seeing the potential of business in Hong Kong, China and the Asian region overall, Château Margaux are the pioneers of Asia for Bordeaux. Recently in Hong Kong, Paul Pontallier was eager to show how innovation is an important part of life at the Château as he hosted a tasting of Château Margaux’s experimental wines using organic and biodynamic techniques – not to mention their continued interest in testing how the wines age under screw-cap.

歷史 在1570年,當時瑪歌酒莊的莊主Pierre de Lestonnac擴充了酒莊中的葡萄園, 從而釀造出其標誌性的的葡萄酒。事隔 135年後來到1705年,葡萄酒首次在歷史 中出現於拍賣會上,一枝名為Margose 的葡萄酒被拍賣,其廣告更刊登於《倫敦 憲報》上。其後,Margaux 1771獲赫赫 有名的佳士得拍賣行(Christie’s)所特別 推介,成為第一枝被拍賣的波爾多紅酒。 在1800年及此後的十年間,酒莊進行修 葺重建,使之被譽為「梅多克的凡爾賽 宮」(the Versailles of the Médoc)。酒 莊於1855年獲拿破崙三世名列為一級酒 莊;到了十八世紀末,整個波爾多產區遭 逢巨劫—幾乎所有葡萄園也無一幸免於名 為「phyloxerra」的蟲害。至1977年, 酒莊轉手予André Mentzelopoulos,其 女兒Corrine為酒莊現時的掌舵人,而釀 酒師Paul Pontallier則在1983年加入成 為酒莊的一分子,並於1990年擔任酒莊 常務總監一職。酒莊現時仍然由Corrine Mentzelopoulos主理,而Paul Pontallier現職為葡萄酒總監,負責管理釀酒事務 已超過30年。 瑪歌酒莊的葡萄酒 瑪歌酒莊以釀造紅酒聞名,其精心釀造 的傑作稱為Grand Vin de Château Margaux,名字簡潔直接。每枝紅酒主要以 Cabernet Sauvignon葡萄品種釀造,同 時混合了Cabernet和Merlot,有時也混 和了Cabernet Franc在其中。Grand Vin de Château Margaux的酒並不便宜,以 2010年份來說,香港零售價約為$6,500 。 他 們 釀 造 的 另 一 枝 紅 酒 為 Pa v i l l o n Rouge de Château Margaux,同系列 白酒為Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux,而酒莊的第三款紅酒Margaux de Château Margaux則於1997年面世。 創新意念 瑪歌酒莊是唯一一間於香港設置分部的 頂尖波爾多酒莊,現由Paul Pontallier的 兒子Thibault營運。由於酒莊的管理層意 識到香港、中國大陸以及亞洲地區的市 場潛力,一直積極地在亞洲推廣波爾多 葡萄酒,令酒莊當上領導先驅。近日Paul Pontallier到訪香港,為酒莊主持試酒 會,跟與會者品嚐以有機及生物動力方法 釀造的「試驗葡萄酒」。他在會上發表演 說,指出創新意念對他個人釀酒生涯的重 要性,同時也提到酒莊對葡萄酒以酒瓶扭 蓋或軟木塞密封的差異何在一直感興趣。

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WTHK: WTHK: Has wine always been something you’ve been passionate about? 你一直以來也對葡萄 酒充滿熱誠嗎? PP: Yes, I was born into it because my whole family has always been involved in producing wine in Bordeaux. I was brought up in a very traditional French family and of course wine was always on our table. But I never imagined I would specialise in wine until I was 21. I was very interested in study – I was a bit of an intellectual! PP:是的,我從出生起便與葡萄酒有密切關係,因為我 整個家族也在波爾多從事有關釀酒的工作,而我們是非 常傳統的法國人家庭,因此葡萄酒當然是我們用餐時不 可缺少的一部分。不過,我在21歲前根本沒有想過自己 會從事釀酒業,當時的我對學習非常感興趣,我也算是 個讀書人吧。 WTHK: How did you end up working at Château Margaux? 你何時開始在瑪歌酒莊工作? PP: I did my military service in Chile and spent almost two years there teaching oenology at the university there and helping a bit at the embassy. At that time, in 1981 Chilean wines were absolutely unknown but I got to know all the producers. When I was about to finish my time there I heard the news that Château Margaux was looking for somebody and although I had other projects on at the time, Château Margaux is the kind of opportunity you can’t refuse. So I returned to France and I was interviewed at Margaux and after a couple of months of talking I was appointed the technical director at Margaux in June 1983. PP:我曾在智利服兵役,之後在那裏留了兩年,在當地 的大學教授釀酒學,也在領事館工作過。當時1981年, 智利的葡萄酒絕非如現時般有名,不過我卻認識到當地 所有的釀酒商。在差不多要離開智利時,我得知當時瑪 歌酒莊正在招攬人才,雖然我手頭上還有大大小小的工 作項目有待完成,但我又怎能拒絕於瑪歌酒莊工作的機 會呢?所以我返回法國到瑪歌酒莊面試,經幾個月的商 討後,我正式於1983年擔任酒莊的技術總監。

Interview Time... 訪談時間 WTHK: Is having a permanent representation in Asia important these days? 現時在亞洲設立酒莊的恆常代 表重要嗎? PP: We very much felt it was necessary for two reasons. The Chinese market was becoming very interested in wine and we knew very little about it and at the time they knew very little about us. There was a real need for a presence to let them know who we were. Japan was a good market at the time but now we have access to the whole of China, Indonesia, Thailand, South Korea, Singapore and of course here in Hong Kong. It was great timing for us to get here in 2010 and it was a good moment to establish a brand. What has happened in China in the last 4 years is more-or-less equivalent to what has happened in Bordeaux over the last 30 years; it’s just mind blowing. PP:我們認為這是必需的,主要有兩大原因:第一,中 國市場對葡萄酒的需求增多;然而第二,我們卻並不清 楚其市場特色,中國的消費者同樣也不清楚我們的葡萄 酒。所以我們有必要出現在於他們眼前,讓他們多點了 解葡萄酒。當時日本也是個被看好的市場,但現在我們 與中國、印尼、泰國、南韓、新加坡建立了緊密連接, 當然香港也在其中。我們於2010年到香港發展,當時牌 的好時機。中國剛過去的4年發生的一切,與波爾多過去 的30年有多少相似,同樣也是令人難以想像地興奮。

WTHK: How has life been over the last 30 years at the Château? 在瑪歌酒莊待了30個年頭,你的感覺如何? PP: The last 30 years has just been the most extraordinary period of the 20th century. I just happened to be in the right place at the right time. 1982 was a real turning point, it was a great vintage and for plenty of reasons the American market got extremely interested and all of a sudden our business changed scale and a lot of things which would not have been thinkable before became possible from then on. It was just the beginning of a lot of commercial success and an extraordinary row of great vintages – before that it had been twenty years of mediocre vintages. It has been a real success story which I feel very privileged to have been associated with; it was a great and fantastic time and it’s still a fantastic time today. PP:過去的30年是二十世紀中最不平凡的日子,在我而 言,一切彷彿配合了天時、地利、人和,讓我做到我想 做的事。1982年是一個重要的轉捩點,它不僅是個好的 葡萄酒年份,更在種種因素下,美國葡萄酒市場需求升 溫,令葡萄酒的生產規模隨之擴大,同時許多以往被視 為不可能的事都變成可能。在此之前的20年間,所出產 的葡萄酒質素較為平庸,但在這年之後卻出產了不少好 的年份,加上商業發展令葡萄酒業變得蓬勃,而我有幸 見證着這一切成功的誕生,並且參與其中。那是一段最 美好的時光,時至今天依然美好。

WTHK: What would you like to do when you retire? 你的退休計劃如何? PP: Honestly, I have not even thought about it! If it came to it I would consider semi-retirement as I have always valued teamwork and I think giving responsibility to the younger generation is important so I think it would be stupid at the age of 65 to just retire and deprive the company of the experience that has been built up. I would like to bring those many years of experience to others and I think I will have plenty to do and will certainly not start a second career. Margaux deserves my full loyalty and I think it would be stupid to just stop working. PP:老實說,我還未想過呢!當該退休的時候到了,我 想也只會是「半退休」,因為我一直很重視團隊工作, 而且將責任交託予年輕一輩是重要的事,所以想到在65 歲時直接退休而未能把承傳做好,讓辛辛苦苦建立的都 付之流水,真是件蠢事!我希望將自己多年多的經驗傳 給他人,加上我也會有其他的工作,但我絕不會開展其 他的第二事業。瑪歌酒莊值得我在此忠誠工作,只因為 年長而不再工作,實在愚昧。 winetimeshk.com 37


Chef Chat with Stephy 當Stephy遇上主廚

Text by Stephy Poon Photography by Christie Chan

撰文:Stephy Poon 攝影:Christie Chan

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here are so many snacks served for Chinese New Year, and one of these snacks that can be easily found in Chinese restaurants and eaten throughout the year, is turnip cake. For Chinese people, this delicious savory cake simply means prosperity and fortune. Although it’s a common dish on Chinese restaurants’ menus, when it comes to Chinese New Year, people like to have their own homemade recipe and share among family and friends. It’s just something you can’t compare with the ones at restaurants as it’s made with extra love and care. So, what are you waiting for? Let’s get ready with Grace Choi Suen Mei Wah, Head Chef and Owner of Choi Choi’s Kitchen in Yuen Long to learn some tips on making the perfect moist and rich turnip cake!

February’s Chef: Grace Choi Suen Mei Wah, Head Chef and Owner of Choi Choi’s Kitchen 38 winetimeshk.com

Dish-to-teach: Turnip Cake (Law Bak Gow) Stephy: What’s Turnip Cake for you? Chef Grace: “Turnip cake is a very traditional Chinese dish and one of the most signature and representative dishes for Chinese Lunar New Year. I used to stand next to my mum and see how she made it when I was much younger so turnip cake is not only a dish for me but also brings back memories of my childhood.” “Making turnip cake was like a family activity for me when I was young. Whenever I make it, it reminds me of those sleepless nights before Chinese New Year because I was too excited! It is a dish that you can change the ingredients according to your own preferences. It’s really a happy dish for me since we usually make a few pans of turnip cake and then share with our family and friends!”

曆新年有不少應節食品,而在眾多傳統 農 美食中,蘿蔔糕可算是一年四季的長青 菜式,於中式酒樓不難找到它的蹤影。對中國

人來說,這款美味的糕點是代表着好運和財 富。雖然蘿蔔糕屬於常見菜式,但來到農曆新 年,大家都會特別花心思,以自家食譜去炮製 蘿蔔糕與親朋好友分享。餐廳裏吃到的,就是 跟自家製的蘿蔔糕有些不同,全因有「加料愛 心和心意」。還在等甚麼?快點準備好,跟蔡 菜館主廚和負責人蔡孫美華(Grace Choi)去偷 偷師,學習如何造出一個既充滿蘿蔔絲且香氣 四溢的蘿蔔糕!

12月「煮」廚:中式私房菜館蔡菜館 的主廚和負責人蔡孫美華 「煮」廚食譜:蘿蔔糕 「煮」廚推介原因 Grace:「蘿蔔糕是中國的傳統食品,也是對 農曆新年節日很有代表性的其中一道食品。對 我來說,蘿蔔糕並不只是一道食品般簡單,而 是令我回想起小時候的我,常常在廚房站在媽 媽旁偷師,看着她造蘿蔔糕,就像是一項大型 家庭活動似的。現在每當我在造蘿蔔糕時,就 會令我想起小時候在農曆新年來到的前一天, 都會因為興奮而睡不着,實在滿載回憶。這道 菜式所用到的配料都可以隨個人喜好作出加減 和修改。這麼令人開心的美食,當然要多造點 和家人朋友分享!」

Choi Choi’s Kitchen 蔡菜館 Address: 198 Kat Hing Wai, Yuen Long 地址:錦田錦上路吉慶圍198號 Tel: 3126 5109


Turnip Cake 蘿蔔糕

Before you cook

Ingredients 所需食材 Fresh long radish (aka daikon/ turnip) 白蘿蔔 Plain rice flour 粘米粉 Corn flour 粟粉 Dried shrimp 蝦米 Chinese preserved sausages (Leop Cheung) 臘腸 Chinese preserved bacon (Leop Yuk) 臘肉 Dried scallops 乾瑤柱 Chopped spring onion 乾蔥切粒 Diced garlic 蒜頭切粒 Chinese cooking wine (Shiu Jau) 紹酒 Salt 鹽 Oil 油 Water 水

4kg 7斤(大約4公斤) 600g 600克 50g 50克 4 tablespoons 4湯匙 2

1. Peel the radish skin. Prepare a hand grater. Finely shred turnips. Place them in a large pot with a bowl of water. Boil them for about 15 minutes until tender. Drain turnips and reserve the cooking liquid. 2. Soak dried shrimp and dried scallops in warm water for 30 minutes till all softened. Reserve the soaking liquid. 3. Finely chop the Chinese preserved sausages.

事前準備

1. 白蘿蔔去皮以磨刨器刨絲。將白蘿蔔絲加入一碗水 至煲中,煮至軟身(約15分鐘,視乎粗幼)。留起煮 蘿蔔的水。 2. 以暖水將乾瑤柱、蝦米浸大約30分鐘至軟身,同樣 留起浸過的水。 3. 臘腸、臘肉切粒,備用。

Steps 2 4-5 2 tablespoons 2湯匙 2 tablespoons 2湯匙 1 tablespoon 1湯匙 3 teaspoosns 3茶匙 2 teaspoons 2茶匙 1 bowl 1碗

Wine Pairing Recommendations 葡萄酒搭配建議 Chef Grace: “Instead of choosing red or white wines, I would like to go for something special, the handmade Chinese plum wine to pair with turnip cake. I think it’s an interesting pairing. The sweetness and sourness of the plum wine can cut off the oily and fatty feeling of the pan-fried turnip cake.” 主廚Grace:「這次我想搭配紅白酒以外,較特別的 選擇—自家釀製的梅子酒。我相信這會是個頗有趣的 配搭。梅子酒甜甜酸酸的味道,可以中和煎蘿蔔糕的熱 氣、油膩感,帶來清新感。」

1. Add plain rice flour through a sieve, mix all reserve cooking and soaking liquid and corn flour in a big bowl and mix well. Stir it till it is smooth. Cover it. 2. In an oiled pan, stir-fried the diced garlic and then add the Chinese bacon and preserved sausages, dried shrimps, dried scallops and cooking wine for a few minutes until the pork is cooked. 3. Combine all the cooked ingredients and salt with the batter and mix well with your hand. 4. Pour the batter into the containers, cover and steam for 75-90 minutes (depends on your steamer). For the first 20-30 minutes, steam it with high heat and then lower it to medium heat. Check the water level and replenish with boiling water if necessary. 5. Cool on a rack for a few hours. Cover and refrigerate at least 3 to 4 hours. 6. Pan-fried it to golden brown and serve it with a bit of spring onion on top.

烹調步驟

1. 粘米粉過篩放入大盆內,加入所有浸過乾瑤柱和蝦 米的水、蘿蔔水跟粟粉一同拌勻,直至沒有粉粒的 米漿備用。 2. 倒油至鑊中,炒香蒜頭,再放入臘腸臘肉粒、乾瑤 柱、蝦米炒幾分鐘至半熟。 3. 把所有已炒香的材料和鹽加入米漿,用手拌勻。 4. 把拌勻的米漿倒入錫紙盆,蓋上保鮮紙,蒸大約75 至90分鐘(視乎爐頭火力)。先大火蒸20至30分鐘, 之後轉至中火。期間定期查看水位,因應情況自行 加水。 5. 蒸好後,置室溫待涼。放入雪櫃待3至4小時。 6. 準備享用蘿蔔糕時,把其煎香至金黃色,隨意撒上 乾蔥即可。

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Macau:

Simple, No Frills Eating Text & Photography by Ali Nicol

澳門:吃得一切從簡

攝影:Ali Nicol 譯文:Christie Chan

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aipa has evolved and adapted over the last 15 years; so much so that a vast majority of the island would be unrecognisable to someone returning with pre-1999 memories. Tourism is booming and the hotel / casino industry has to take credit for this, with the plethora of visiting mainland tourists alongside those from around the world visiting the former Portuguese colony each year. What was once a sleepy little island is now a thriving metropolis filled with shoppers, gamblers and sightseers. One area that has however managed to keep its charm and remain somewhat authentic over time is Taipa old village. Although the area is buzzing with teens raising their selfie sticks and mainland shoppers looking for dried meat, the charm has remained and small shops and eateries can be found in the narrow alleyways that cross-cross the village. Restaurants are a dime a dozen in Taipa village and one that has stood the test of time is the quaint, homely Portuguese restaurant Galo.

Galo’s two floor restaurant opened in 1987 and has served a mix of authentic Portuguese food and Macanese Portuguese food for almost 30 years. Not much has changed internally in the restaurant over time and walking in one first notices how simple and homely the place is. There are no chairs, only stools, which tells you that it’s not a place to sit and relax in over a long afternoon; quite the opposite, it’s designed for a quick turn over of customers and when we visited Galo both floors of the place were completely full with both locals and tourists. The extensive menu is rather old-school with pictures of each dish and on face value the prices seem rather reasonable. Undoubtedly these prices have risen sharply over time with the influx of tourism however they do not break the bank and there is plenty of choices of dishes to choose for the meat and seafood lover. The service is quick and efficient both on the restaurant floor and in the kitchen and food is served piping hot just moments after it is ordered. The Portuguese Bacalhau à

Domgalo Portuguese Food 公雞葡國餐廳

Address: 45 Rua do Cunha, R/C Taipa, Macau 地址:澳門氹仔舊城區官也街45號地下 Tel 電話: +853 2882 7423 門氹仔在過去的15年歷盡變遷,若一個 澳 在1999年離開此地的人重臨舊地,他不 大可能辨認得到島上的絕大部分事物。澳門旅

遊業發展蓬勃,主要因為酒店業及賭場業推波 助瀾,令內地遊客大量湧入澳門,也令世界各 地不少旅客到前葡萄牙殖民地觀光遊覽。從前 平靜多時的小島,現在搖身一變成為繁華都 市,充滿着到此購物、賭博、旅遊等各式各樣 的人。 然而,其中一個地區卻不隨時代而變改,得以 保存其舊貌韻味—氹仔村。雖然這區是有名 的旅遊勝地,滿街都是拿着「自拍神棍」的年 輕人和想買肉乾當手信的內地旅客,可是無損 這個小區的魅力,你仍可在小街窄巷中找到不 同類型的小店及食肆。氹仔村裏的餐廳食肆數 量多得很,而當中經得起時間考驗的,就是古 樸而家常的公雞葡國餐廳。 樓高兩層的公雞葡國餐廳於1987年開業,30 年來一直為食客提供正宗葡國菜及地道澳門人 口味的葡國菜。餐廳內的一切依然如舊,踏進 餐廳的一刻,只感受到其簡單樸實及家庭風 winetimeshk.com 41


Brás (Cod Fish and Potatoes - $60) were lovely, not oily at all and there was a great fish flavour to the dish. They make an excellent starter as they are light and fluffy and pair lovely with a simple Portuguese beer such as Superbock. In fact, much like all over Macau, beers are cheap too - $28 – and as visiting Macau gives the feeling of being on holiday, there no excuse not to have more than one! The restaurant lists it’s specialities as Frango na Pucara (chicken with vegetables), Camarao Gigante (Giant Prawns) and Caranguejos a Macau (Macau Crabs) but we decided on a simple Salada de Tomate (Tomato and Onion salad - $50) which worked nicely with the Bacalhau and is a nice healthy option for a starter. If seafood is your thing there are all forms of fish and shellfish available including of course Portuguese Sardines ($90), crab curry (Market price) and clams in white wine sauce ($80). Meat lovers can get their steak fix but for something more interesting, try the Escalopes de Vijela (Escalopes of Veal - $85) or

the Joelho do Porco Alemao Frito (Pig’s Knuckle - $85) as these are not dishes often found in restaurants in Hong Kong. Of course, no meal in Macau (especially if you are eating Portuguese food) is complete without a drop of wine and although the wine list is probably completely out of date (we doubt the vintages on the wines are correct!) there are great, affordable options for those that fancy a drop of Vinho Verde or a nice Dao. In fact, you can order a ‘small jar’ of house red or white wine – a non-descript wine but none the less extremely drinkable – for just $60 for half a litre or $35 for a glass. There is a selection of Vinho Verde (Green wine), Vinho Branco (White wine), Vinho Tinto (Red wine) and Vinho Rosado (Rosé wine) so they have all the bases covered, but our suggestion is just to go for the ‘small jar’ as it’s great value for money and although the wine is likely extremely cheap, it’s drinkable and goes very well with the food.

味。舒適的餐椅欠奉,只有木凳子—不是一 個能在整個下午坐着閒着,放輕鬆的地方;反 之,它是個讓食客「快吃快去」的餐廳,當我 們來到餐廳時,兩層也坐滿了本地客及旅客。 舊式餐牌上的食物選擇很多,有着每道菜的相 片,而價錢亦相對合理。澳門遊業發展步伐急 速,餐廳無疑也會藉由加價,但絕不會使你 的荷包負荷過重,而且餐牌上的選擇無不合嗜 肉者及愛吃海鮮的食客的菜式。樓面及廚房均 有效率,點叫食物後不消一會,熱哄哄的食 物便冒着煙被端到餐桌上。葡式馬介休(Portuguese Bacalhau à Brás - $60)一點也不油 膩,其魚味濃郁,可口非常,更因為這道菜輕 而鬆化,所以適合作為前菜,再配以葡萄牙啤 酒如Superbock,實在很不錯。與澳門其他餐 廳一樣,這裏的啤酒價格便宜,只售$28。而 到訪澳門猶如悠閒度假一般,因此又怎能只喝 一杯啤酒呢! 餐牌上的特別推介為烤雞伴蔬菜(Frango na Pucara)、巨蝦(Camarao Gigante)及澳門蟹 (Caranguejos a Macau),不過我們想點較健 康清淡的前菜,點叫了簡單的蕃茄洋蔥沙律 (Salada de Tomate - $50),與馬介休兩者相 得益彰。如果你是海鮮愛好者,你會很滿意餐 牌上的選擇,當中不乏各式各樣的選擇,包括 葡式沙甸魚($90)、咖哩炒蟹(時價),以及白 酒煮蜆($80)。嗜肉者當然可以大吃牛扒,不 過可試試選擇炒小牛肉(Escalopes de Vijela - $85)或鐵板豬手(Joelho do Porco Alemao Frito - $85),這些在香港不常見的菜式可能 會帶給你驚喜。 在澳門享用美食(尤其吃葡國菜),又怎能少了 美酒的份兒?雖然餐應提供的葡萄酒選擇頗為 過時(我們懷疑其葡萄酒的年份可能不正確!) ,但卻有着品質好而價格合理的葡萄酒,令食 客喝到Vinho Verde(青酒)及Dao。餐廳也提 供小份量玻璃瓶的特選紅、白酒—非不倫不 類且極易入喉的酒,半公升的價格只為$60, 一杯則為$35。不論是青酒(Vinho Verde)、 白酒(Vinho Branco)、紅酒(Vinho Tinto), 還是玫瑰紅酒(Vinho Rosado),餐廳均有供 應,但我們建議讀者點叫小份量玻璃瓶的特選 紅、白酒,雖然這酒似乎是非常便宜的葡萄 酒,但其性價比極高,而且與餐廳菜式十分配 搭。

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In all honesty, this is certainly not Macau’s best restaurant but its simple, no frills approach is a welcome attraction in a time where glitz and glamour fine dining is taking much of the spotlight off traditional styles of dining. There seemed to be no Portuguese staff on board (which doesn’t matter to be fair) but the service is efficient and fast and on the whole, friendly. Most of the staff are tri-lingual (English, Putonghua, and Cantonese) and may even speak Portuguese but what was striking was how attentive they are. The restaurant is set up of mostly tables of 6 or 8 so expect to share with another party or couple depending on how many of you there are. Whilst the food is not

mind-blowingly good, if you’re hungry and on a budget, Galo is a great option for some fast, quick and easy Portuguese fare. You can find Galo easily as it is located at the old town square, these days surrounded with modernity such as the ubiquitous Starbucks, but stepping into the place really gives a feeling of going back to colonial times. Reservations can be made but with the high table turnover it’s likely not necessary as you will be seated without a hugely long wait.

我們向讀者老實地和盤托出,公雞葡國餐廳定 非澳門最佳的餐廳,但它的簡樸、不花巧正正 是其吸引之處,與華麗精緻的高級餐飲形成強 烈對比,令人想起潮流以外的傳統飲食風格。 餐廳內像是沒有葡萄牙藉的員工(公平點說, 這並不重要),但其服務效率快而有禮,對食 客招呼周到,大部分服務生也操三種語言(英 語、普通話及廣東話),甚至有些更能說葡萄 牙語。餐廳內多為6至8人的桌椅,因此你很 可能要與其他食客同桌用餐,視乎你和親友的 人數而定。雖說公雞葡國餐廳所提供的並非驚 為天人的菜式,但若你餓了,而且花費預算有 限,它也是很不錯的選擇──既快且簡單。 餐廳的位置方便易找,正正位於漸具時代感的 舊城廣場,旁邊屹立着無所不在的星巴克。不 過,踏進氹仔村,仍然能感受到舊時殖民地的 一絲氣息。餐廳有優先訂座服務,但由於餐廳 的食客來去如風,即便到餐廳也無需長時間等 候,因此大概也用不着優先訂座。 winetimeshk.com 43


Whine-on: Ask us whatever you like! 讀者專欄:想問就問!

Have any doubts or questions about wine? Send us an email at md@winetimeshk.com or leave a message on our Facebook page at facebook.com/winetimeshk and we will bust the answer for you! 你有任何關於酒的疑問嗎?請寄電郵到md@winetimeshk.com或在我們的 Facebook 專頁facebook.com/winetimeshk留言,隨便發問!我們樂意為你解開 每個疑難! Q1: Why do winemakers blend grapes to make wine? – Jimmy; Shau Kei Wan 為甚麼釀酒師會混合不同的葡萄品種去釀酒?—Jimmy;筲箕灣

Answer: Well Jimmy, mostly wines that are a blend of grapes are made because each different grape adds something unique to the wine. Sometimes, in a bad vintage a blend can be made to mask the faults in one of the components, but on the whole, grapes are blended together to give the wine the extra colour, tannin, mouth feel or elegance that it would not have if it were just a single varietal wine. Blends also are made from regions where more than one grape flourishes – unlike say Burgundy where both reds and whites are made from one single varietal. The wines that are blended together are all fermented separately and then mathematically made so to reach a standard that the winemaker is happy with. A new phenomenon that we are very interested in is ‘field blends’ where lots of different grape varieties are all grown picked, fermented and bottled together…look out for more of these on our pages in 2015.

答: 大部分葡萄酒均以不同的葡萄品混合釀造,原因為每 種葡萄的特性不同,從而增添了葡萄酒的獨特性。有 時候,個別年份的某葡萄品種收成較差,而混合不同 葡萄品種便可減低其瑕疵。不過,整體而言,混合不 同葡萄品種去釀酒是為了增加酒的顏色、單寧、口 感、整體和諧感,而以單一葡萄品種卻不能達到同樣 效果。混合葡萄品種的做法只會出現在種植多種葡萄 的產區,舉個反例說,勃艮地的紅、白酒也只以單一 的葡萄品種釀造。在混合葡萄的過程中,每種葡萄均 分別各自進行發酵,之後才以不同比例混合起來,而 當中的比例則由釀酒師隨個人風格而定。然而,有釀 酒師以新的方法去釀造混合葡萄酒,就是把不同的葡 萄品於同一耕地上種植、收成、發酵、入樽。有關更 多資訊,請拭目以待WTHK的雜誌。

Q2: Why do so many New World Sauvignon Blanc taste the same? – Phil; Central 為甚麼許多產自新世界的Sauvignon Blanc,其味道沒甚麼差別?—Phil;中環

Answer: Good question Phil; we find ourselves asking the same question sometimes. Actually, if you are looking for a unique style of Sauvignon Blanc then you need look no further than South Africa. These days however, with the unbridled success of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (especially from Marlborough) many places are trying to emulate the style and flavour of these wines as they are ‘what people are drinking these days’. We have tried some California, Italian and Australian wines that are almost identical in aroma and taste as the wines from New Zealand and really do disappoint as part of the fun of drinking wine is getting some excitement from the bottle rather than just a standardised taste. Whether the terroir of these regions is the same as New Zealand, it’s not for us to speculate on (we doubt it) – but it does seem that many are just making wines that they think will sell rather than wines with any sense of place these days. 44 winetimeshk.com

答: 好問題,我們有時也問着相同的問題。其實,如果你 想喝到一瓶風格特別的Sauvignon Blanc,可試試看產 自南非的。由於紐西蘭釀造Sauvignon Blanc極為成功 及聞名(尤其產自Marlborough的),使其他地方的酒莊 也想仿照其風格及味道,從而釀造「所有人也喜愛」 的葡萄酒。我們曾試過產自加州、意大利、澳洲的葡 萄酒,其香氣和味道與產自紐西蘭極為相似;當我們 在開瓶時想得到驚喜,卻只換來標準化的葡萄酒,實 在令人失望。或許該產區的風土氣候與紐西蘭有所相 似,但這由不到我們推測(或許我們可以)—許多酒莊只 釀造賣錢的葡萄酒,並非能反映產區特質的葡萄酒。


Q3: Does China make any good wine? – Bob; Sheung Wan 中國有否釀造出品質好的葡萄酒?—Bob;上環

Answer: Ah, the paradox of quality wine from China Bob! One would think that as China makes over a billion bottles of wine annually that they could manage to make something that tastes more like Ribena than paint thinner but on the whole, it seems that they cannot. Certainly here in Hong Kong there are very few wines from China that are good (yes, there are drinkable ones; but good ones are hard to find). Of course, Dynasty and Great Wall wines from China feature on many of our supermarket shelves here and although they are not going to kill you, there are certainly better wines for sure. Grace Vineyard from Shanxi Province makes some good wines (we really like their Symphony White) and their reds are good food wines for sure. However, Grace is the frontrunner for Chinese wines as they have been doing it for some time now. For sure, once China learns more about how to make wine properly, expect to see some quality coming from the Mainland – although when this will be is anyone’s guess.

答: 中國葡萄酒的質量是個矛盾:中國每年能夠生產十億 枝葡萄酒,但其味道���像利賓納多於油漆稀釋劑,似 乎中國終究還是釀不出好酒。在香港,你只找到少數 質量好的中國葡萄酒,當中多為「可飲用的」,但真 正好的葡萄酒實在難找。你大概可以在超市中買得到 中國王朝酒莊及長城酒莊的葡萄酒,雖然它們對你無 害,但一定有其他比其更優質的葡萄酒。位於山西的 怡園酒莊也釀造出一些好酒(我們喜歡它的白酒「協奏 曲」Symphony White),其紅酒也是很好的餐酒,顯 示怡園酒莊算得上是中國葡萄酒的領先者。當更多中 國酒莊掌握到釀酒這門學問時,相信中國將能出產更 多的好酒,至於何時才能達到這樣的目標,現階段每 個人也只能猜測。

Q4: What are the major faults in wine? – Maggie; Pat Heung 葡萄酒會如何「出錯」?—Maggie;八鄉

Answer: Wines can have many faults Maggie and these faults can begin with the winery and end with the consumer. TCA (the compound that creates corked wines) can be transmitted to the cork both at source and within the winery and any bottle that is sealed with a cork that has TCA taint will forever be corked. This has been a major problem for new world winemakers for many years and was a major reason for the use of Stelvin seals (screwcap). Another fault is when a wine is ‘cooked’. This is when the wine has been stored in a place that is too hot or in direct sunlight and the wine has aged dramatically and is, on the whole, undrinkable. Oxidation is another fault (unless the wine is made in that style) and can occur when the wine has been left open too long, or when the seal has not been closed properly allowing oxygen to react with the wine giving it a taste of vinegar. There are many more faults but some are highly scientific and would constitute an entire story (which we will write for you later this year!)

答: 葡萄酒可以從多方面「出錯」:從酒莊釀酒過程開 始,到飲者開瓶享用時,也可令葡萄酒品質變差。在 酒瓶的木塞被製造時,或經過酒莊釀酒過程中,TCA( 令葡萄酒充滿木塞味道的化合物)可能已依附在木塞之 中,使其一直存在於未被開瓶的葡萄酒內,令其受污 染。對新世界的釀酒師而言,這是一個主要的問題, 所以許多人也使用Stelvin密封法(瓶蓋)來密封酒瓶。 葡萄酒「過熟」(“cooked”)是另一個常見「出錯」 ,當葡萄酒被貯存於高溫下或陽光下,葡萄酒會大幅 度變陳,從而變得不可飲用。另外,氧化也會令葡萄 酒品質變差(除非這是該葡萄酒的風格),當葡萄酒被開 瓶過久,或酒瓶未被妥善密封,都會使葡萄酒氧化變 酸。除了上述的問題外,葡萄酒還可從多方面出錯, 但當中涉及科學解釋,不能三言兩語解釋清楚,所以 我們在今年會為讀者寫一篇詳細的文章!

Q5: What does it mean “drink in moderation”? – Winnie; Choi Hung 喝酒時「適可而止」是甚麼意思?—Winnie;彩虹

Answer: Actually Winnie, we don’t know about or practice such a thing! No, seriously, drinking in moderation is important as it is a health issue. Drinking is not bad for you but drinking too much can lead to liver, kidney and brain problems so governments make sure that we all know more about drinking in moderation. What it means is that there is a certain amount of alcohol that is acceptable and healthy for your body while there are levels that are not. On the whole, these are not determined by a government department, more the size of your body and its capacity to break down the alcohol in your bloodstream. We would say that, in moderation, a glass of wine a day is good for you – in fact, two glasses of wine a day to be on the safe side! But what it is really saying is that you should think more about how much alcohol you consume on any given evening – but remember, wine is healthy so stick to wine and stay off the high alcohol spirits (and definitely stay away from the Baiju!)

答: 真巧,我們也不知道何謂「喝酒時適可而止」!不是 的,因為這關乎我們的健康,喝酒並不損害健康,但 過量喝酒可以導致肝腎功能衰退,甚至影響大腦運 作,因此政府積極推廣適度喝酒。我們的身體可以接 受一定程度的酒精,在這之下也對健康有利,但高於 這個程度的酒精,則會構成壞影響。然而,接受酒精 的程度並不能由政府決定的,而是視乎個人的體形以 及身體分解血液中酒精的能力。我們適宜說,每天喝 一杯酒對健康有益,而事實上喝上兩杯也很安全! 這 也就是說,你該視乎自己的身體狀況去決定喝多少 酒。要記住,喝葡萄酒是健康的──多喝點葡萄酒,少 喝點高酒精濃度的烈酒。(遠離中國白酒!)

winetimeshk.com 45


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Jobs provided by

以下職位由Wine Jobs HK提供

Recruitment in the wine business 人才招聘

Find out more wine job vacancies at www.winejobshongkong.com/ 請瀏覽以上網址查詢更多職位空缺

Sales Manager

Marketing Executive

Responsibilities:

Responsibilities:

營業經理 Continental Wines Ltd - Achieve personal sales targets - Develop new sales channels and distribution networks - Look after existing client base as well as developing new customers

Requirements:

- At least 2 years experience in the wine industry - Good command of spoken and written Cantonese and English - Passionate about wine, with good wine knowledge - holder of WSET certificate preferred - Dynamic & creative - able to work in a fast-paced working environment under pressure - Good organisational skills – ability to comply with targets & deadlines - Good team player - Sound knowledge of wine business and a existing sales network - Proficiency in MS Office Interested parties please send detailed CV and your current and expected salary to info@continentalwines.com.hk in word or pdf format.

Sales Executive (F&B) 營業代表 (餐飲部) L’Imperatrice Limited

市場推廣代表 Altaya Wines Limited

- Handle events RSVP - Liaison w/Wholesale team, finance and multiple departments - Generate marketing anaysis and sales reports - Conduct market research in terms of competitors strategies - Coordinate and manage the implementation of the firm's business development and marketing strategy and profile-building in Hong Kong market - Plan & coordinate marketing activities to promote wine brands, events in particular - Maintain electronic file system of marketing information consistent with firm wide approach, such as database, members activities and CRM system - Assist with post-event follow-up activity - Communicate effectively on marketing tasks - Support the overall needs of the marketing team

Requirements:

- Degree or above in Marketing or related subjects - Luxury brand and wine related discipline is preferred - Minimum 2-3 years with solid experience - Good analysis and reporting skills - Excellent command in English and Chinese - Good networking and sociability, strong interpersonal skill - Independent, organized, highly motivated and able to handle multi-task - Strong attention to detail - Must have flexibility to work extra hours to complete projects / tasks Interested parties please send your resume with expected salary to email : hr@altayawines.com

Responsibilities:

- Assisting in development and opening the hotels and restaurants accounts of the company - Assisting in developing product selling strategies - Preparation for the sales-oriented events: client visits, tastings, wine dinners, wine estate producer's visits - Communication between purchasing & logistics team and clients for stock movement, management and technical information of wine estates & wines - Ad hoc duties

Requirements:

- University degree holder - Good communication and presentation skill - Excellent command of languages, French is a plus - Having interest in wine is a must - Energetic, highly motivated with good organization - Good knowledge of MS Word and Excel Interested candidates please send your detailed resume with expected salary in PDF to: min@imperatrice.com.hk

Assistant Wholesale & Corporate Manager 助理批發及企業部經理 A. S. Watson Retail (HK) Limited

Responsibilities:

- Assisting Wholesale & Corporate Sales Manager in the business development process - Supporting and assisting the Wholesale & Corporate sales team in developing strategic & tactical plans - Monitoring the budget, forecast and reporting - Managing promotion activities, marketing tools & events - Plan and prepare marketing collaterals include but not limited to tent cards, price lists, posters etc. - Event management (wine tastings, dinners & VIP functions) - Work closely with other departments (finance, marketing, buying & logistics) to plan and delivery attractive deals and ensure excellent execution of business plans

Requirements:

Account Manager

客戶經理 Jebsen Beverage Co. Ltd.

Responsibilities:

- Achieve sales target of private/corporate channel - Identify and develop new private/corporate customer while managing existing customers - Collaborate with corporate customers in their customer engagement programs - Assist in customer servicing and conducting events for Online Shop customers

Requirements:

- More than 2 years proven success in the wine industry - Bachelor Degree holder, preferably in marketing/sales - Good command in both written and spoken English and Chinese (Cantonese and Mandarin) - Good understanding of wine knowledge and holder of WSET certificate preferred- Excellent communication interpersonal skills - Initiative, aggressive, result oriented and self-motivated Interested parties please submit your application via our careers website at http://careers.jebsen.com

48 winetimeshk.com

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University Graduate with at least 4 year sales experience in wine, luxury product or hospitality industry Passionate in Wine and WSET qualification preferred Creative, enthusiastic and dynamic approach to business with a can-do mindset Dynamic, creative to cope with fast-paced working environment and able to work under pressure Excellent command of written and spoken English with good presentation and communication skills Good organization skills and ability to comply with targets, budgets and deadlines Advanced knowledge of Microsoft Excel Knowledge of Photoshop is a plus Dynamic, creative to cope with fast-paced working environment and able to work under pressure

Interested parties please forward detailed resume stating expected salary to: Human Resources Department, A.S. Watson Retail Hong Kong, 7/F Watson House, 1-5 Wo Liu Hang Road, Fotan, N.T. or fax to


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Wine Times Hong Kong Issue 4