MENDOZA`S FREE MAGAZINE
Nยบ42 FEB / MAR 2010
MENDOZA UNCORKED YOUR GUIDE TO THE HARVEST FESTIVAL, WINE AND CULTURE
w w w. w i n e - r e p u b l i c. c o m 1
Malargüe Breaks Guinness World Record Again........................ 6
Las Paredes Estates, San Rafael.................................................18
Argentina Contracts Dengue Fever.............................................. 6
Eat, Sleep and Say It How It Is....................................................24
New Entry Fees for Foreigners..................................................... 6 Argentina Mourns Loss of Historical Musicians......................... 6
RESTAURANTS & BARS Restaurant Guide: All the best eats around town..............................28
Bar Guide: Pubs, Clubs, Discos, Bars & Happy Hours .......................30
February and March Events..........................................................8 Gay Vendimia Turns Fifteen.........................................................13
MAPS & TIPS Useful Information: Emergency, Airport, Wine Shipping, Crime,
Night Clubs and Taxi Services .....................................................32
The Wish List...............................................................................14
Map of Maipu ..............................................................................32
The Winery Guide: The best wineries to visit...................................16
Map of Chacras de Coria .............................................................32
Tastes Like Home: Domaine Jean Bousequet....................................22
Map of Mendoza City Center ......................................................34
CREDITS Issue February - March 2010 10,000 Copies Published by Seven Colors S.A. Mendoza, Argentina Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613 E-mail. firstname.lastname@example.org Editor: Charlie O’Malley Assistant Editor: Julia Allen Publicidad: Ana Laura Aguilera (155018874) Gabriel Dell’Innocenti (155605961) email@example.com Design: Beattub, www.beattub.com.ar Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION Contributing Authors: Charlie O’Malley, Julia Allen, Amanda May, Daniel Seifert, Stephen Reiss, David Greco Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.
news Malargüe Breaks Guinness World Record Again Once you’ve made it to Argentina, you realize they really put the “AR” in carnivore, but now there’s no doubt. The annual “Fiesta Nacional del Chivo” (National Goat Festival) in Malargüe (approx. 425 km south of the city of Mendoza) always breaks the record, and this year was no different. The grill-fest began the 8th of January and ran for nine smoky days. To enter into the Guinness Book of World Records they had to grill exactly 1,011 chivos. They came to this large number by simply adding one to last year’s record-breaking carnage.
New Entry Fees for Foreigners
After decades of free entry the, U.S., United Kingdom, Australian and Canadian citizens will now be charged a “Reciprocity Fee” to enter Argentina. For the time being, this is only applicable if entering through the Buenos Aires’ Ezezia airport, but eventually it will be enforced at all points of entry. Argentina joins the ranks of Bolivia, Chile and Brazil (amongst others) that require payment for entry, not coincidentally in the exact same amount that the countries charge for their visitors to enter. For example, U.S. citizens will have to pay 134 U$D. This, along with a hike in the penalty fee (from 100 pesos to 300 pesos) if you overstay your three month tourist visa means that
Argentina Contracts Dengue Fever Unfortunately, Dengue fever has increasingly become a problem here in Argentina. In the past couple of years the summer
Argentina is becoming a bit less of a lawless land. So mind your p’s and q’s, renew your visa when necessary and start taking the bus!
epidemic has come further south, mostly affecting the northern
The painful, potentially fatal, mosquito-transmitted disease has
Argentina Mourns Loss of Historical Musicians
no vaccine, so avoiding mosquitoes’ bites is the best prevention.
The end of 2009 and the beginning of 2010 dealt a couple of hard
Douse yourself in insect repellent (preferably with DEET) and
blows to the tradition of Argentine music.
expose as little skin as possible to lower your vulnerability.
On October 4, 2009 folk singer and activist Mercedes Sosa
Now, don’t panic hypochondriacs, just check up on the situation
passed away in Buenos Aires. Known simply as “La Negra,” Sosa
before you head north, buy some OFF! for those late afternoon
made a huge name for herself and toured around the world.
barbeques and seek medical attention if you suspect you’ve
A Tucumán native, she was known to have been very affected
contracted the illness.
by her travels to Buenos Aires and Mendoza, where she learned
provinces of Argentina, but can reach as far south as Buenos Aires and Mendoza.
more about Argentina’s traditional folk music style and became known as “the voice for the voiceless.” She felt so connected to the areas that she even wished to have her ashes spread equally in Buenos Aires, Tucumán and Mendoza. And after a battle with cardiac and pulmonary failure, Roberto Sánchez, better known as Sandro, succumbed to his ailments on January 4, 2010 at the Hospital Italiano here in Mendoza. Sandro had been operated on in Mendoza by the best doctors in the country to receive transplants of both his lungs and his heart in November, 2009, but it proved to be too much after subsequent infections. Something of an Argentine Elvis, he will be sorely missed by many diehard fans. 6
Vendimia Events by Daniel Seifert
There are over nine hundred wineries in Mendoza. That´s about one winery for every 89 people of the metropolitan area, and come February, each and every one of them will be gathering in celebration of Vendimia, Mendoza’s largest festival. It´s a salute to harvest time when 150,000 hectares of vineyards are stripped of their fruit and a hopeful tradition symbolizing the prosperity of the year to come. Vendimia was born in the 1600´s when the local population commemorated the annual harvest by blessing the grapes with thanks to their patron saint, and selecting the most beautiful young maiden to be their harvest queen. In 1936 the governor of Mendoza decreed it an official event. Since that time Festival de Vendimia continues to annually upstage itself. Queens are proudly showcased in a Miss Universe-style election, attended by roughly 40,000 cheering spectators. Glamorous parades fill the street and dozens of cultural celebrations of art, music and film are held. It’s a time when Mendoza is bubbling with big fun and big hopes. So, fill up your wine glass and empty your memory card; you’re about to experience Vendimia! FEBRUARY: Friday 5th. 20:30. Fiesta de la Vendimia de Tunuyán. Venue: Teatro Municipal, Tunuyán. Friday 5th-7th. 20:30. Festival Nacional de la Tonada. Weekend musical festival in Tunuyán. Venue: Anfiteatro Ciudad de Tunuyán. Saturday 6th. 20:00. Fiesta de la Vendimia de Luján. Venue: Fediagro, Calle Aceso sur y Quintana. Saturday 6th. Fiesta de la Vendimia de Gral. Alvear. Friday 11th – 13th. 19:30. Americanto. Started at the end of the Dirty War in celebration of newfound democratic freedom, Americanto is celebration of choirs, soloists and bands singing their hearts out over three nights. Also featured is an audiovisual concert, poetry and dance. Venue: Prado Gaucho (PGSM), Parque General San Martín, Mendoza. Friday 12th. Fiesta de la Vendimia de Guaymallén. Saturday 13th. 22:00. Fiesta de la Vendimia de Maipú. Venue: Polideportivo Municipal, Calle Emilio Civit and Maza. Tuesday 16th-21st. 21:30. Semana Federal. Federal Week. An open-air presentation of the region´s music, art, food and wine. Venue: Parque Civico, Mendoza. Saturday 20th. Fiesta de la Vendimia de San Martín. 8
Saturday 20th. 22:00 Fiesta de la Vendimia de San Rafael. Venue: Anfiteatro Chacho Santa Cruz, Parque H. Irigoyen. Sunday 21st. 21:00. La Vendimia Cuenta Su Historia. Documentary of the History of Vendimia. Learn about the Vendimias of generations past, from 1936 onwards. Venue: Parque Central. Thursday 25th-27th. Encuentro de Colectividades en la Estación. Cuisine samples and cultural performances from the foreign communities of Mendoza. Venue: Estación Cultural Ciudad, Av. Las Herras y Villagonga. Thursday 25th-27th. Megagustación De Vinos. Three days of wine tasting and wine-related activities. Venue: Boulevar Av. Belgrano. Thursday 25th-26th. 20:00. 20 a 20. Twenty-four continuous hours of cultural activities in the various municipal spaces of Mendoza. Venue: Most of the museums, galleries and concert halls of the city, e.g. Museo del Área Fundacional Alberdi and Videla Castillo 5500. Friday 26th. 21:30. Fiesta de la Vendimia de Mendoza City. Venue: Plaza Independencia. Saturday 27th-28th. Fiesta de la Fundación de Mendoza. 449th Anniversary of the Foundation of Mendoza. Celebrated with food, wine and shows. Venue: Plaza Pedro del Castillo. Sunday 28th. 21:30. Benedición de las Frutas. Blessing of the Fruits. A key ceremony of Vendimia, this historical Catholic ritual involves blessing the grapes under the watchful eye of the patron saint, the Virgin of Carrodilla, before they are processed. Venue: Parque Metropolitano Sur, Maipú.
MARCH: Tuesday 2nd-4th. 20:30. Fiesta en la Piazza. The Italian community puts on a vibrant spread of food and culture. Venue: Plaza Italia
on where you sit. Venue: Teatro Griego Frank Romero Day, Parque General San Martin.
Friday 5th. 21:30. Via Blanca de las Reinas Parade. The festival kicks up a notch as the street fills with floats from which the Mendoza harvest pageant contestants woo the crowd with smiles, waves and kisses. Venue: Colón Street.
Saturday 6th. Gay Vendimia´s 15th Year Celebration. Dive into the sparkly world of drag to witness another tongue-in-cheek crowning and shake your booty to world renowned DJ’s. Venue: Angel Bustelo Auditorium, Virgen del Carmen de Cuyo 610.
Friday 5th. 21:30. Noche de Musica en Vendimia. Vendimia Music Night. Outdoor mega-concert. Venue: Plaza Independencia.
Sunday March 7th. 21:30. Segunda Noche. A shortened Vendimia performance is repeated for those of you who missed the Acto Central. Again, buy tickets in advance from a branch of Banco Regional de Cuyo Supervielle. Prices range from $10 to $30 pesos. Venue: Teatro Griego Frank Romero Day, Parque General San Martin.
Saturday 6th. 10:00. Carrusel. Another parade, with dazzeling pageant contestants, gallivanting gauchos and flashy papier-maché floats. Venue: Colón Street. Saturday 6th. 21:30. Acto Central. Hours and hours (some would say too many hours) of choreography, lights, festive singing and the election of the Vendimia Queen. Stick around for the magnificent fireworks show afterwards. Tickets should be bought well in advance from branches of Banco Regional de Cuyo Supervielle, e.g. Casa Central Mendoza, Mendoza Plaza Shopping Centre, Acc. Este 3280 Guaymallén. Tickets range from $120 to $20 pesos, depending
Monday March 8th. 21:30. Tercera Noche. A third chance to watch the Vendimia performance. See above for ticket prices. Venue: Teatro Griego Frank Romero Day, Parque General San Martin. Wednesday 17th. St. Patrick´s Day Party. Down some Guinness and discover your inner Irishman (or woman) at the best Irish pub in town. Venue: Believe Irish Bar, Colón 241.
Gay Vendimia Turns Fifteen By Amanda May This year, as Argentina reaches 200, the Gay Vendimia will turn the tender age of fifteen. But instead of taking all the gays, lesbians, transsexuals, transvestites and everybody else to Disney, as is the custom for quinceñera revelers, they are planning a blowout party in the Ángel Bustelo Auditorium Saturday, March 6th, 2010. The prominent Mendoza producers Gabriel and Fernando Canci are yet again planning the festival. Considering last year’s muse for the Gay Vendimia was Dionysus, the Greek god of wine who inspires madness and ecstasy, this year will not likely disappoint. After all, there’s a lot to celebrate. For the first time in the country’s history, two men wed in Ushuaia, in the south of Argentina, something that will definitely be a topic at this year’s celebration. As the “Acto Central” or Main Stage Show of the traditional grape harvest celebration ends, the gay community in Mendoza will just be getting started. Late Saturday night, the party will begin, and they’re sure to have some tricks up their sleeveless evening gowns to entertain the crowd. The night always includes a beauty pageant and crowning of a queen, theatrical presentation and all-night rave complete with multiple bars, high resolution TVs, light show and world-renowned DJs. Having started as something of a joke by the creator Ricardo “Tito” Bustos, (a drag show at one of his “alternative lifestyle” nightclubs), Gay Vendimia has become a legitimate, important and popular celebration for the gay community that draws thousands. The festival’s first beauty contest winner, “La Turca Glamour,” is now the resident emcee, usually accompanied by some beautiful eye candy. Last year it was the hunky Argentine actor and model Cristian Sancho, who plays a gay soccer star on the television show “Botineras.”
“We are aiming for social inclusion, for coexistence… now look how far we’ve gotten, just 30 meters from the government offices,” La Turca told the crowd last year from Ángel Bustelo Auditorium in downtown Mendoza, a largely conservative city. The evening’s beauty pageant consists of the presentation of the candidates in casual dress and later in evening gowns. Last year’s queen was the blond, 22-year-old, transsexual Luisana Orihuela Bazán. “Like every girl from Mendoza, since I was little I dreamt of becoming the Vendimia queen,” she told the web-based newspaper MDZ Online after her victory in 2009. She always loved playing beauty pageant with her sisters and as an adult was delighted by the opportunity to compete and win the title, albeit as a different queen than she had in mind! Along with the new candidates competing for the sparkly tiara, there will be live and recorded music with around 150 performers gracing the stage throughout the evening. VIP and general admission tickets will be sold for the show. The general admission area will have access to a number of bars, while the VIP section will receive preferential treatment and have access to an exclusive bar. Check out this inclusive, colorful mega-production on March 6th and see why it’s called “Vendimia For Everyone.”
THE Wish List Some wines to try while in Mendoza
Prodigo Malbec Reserva 2004 Carinae Prestige 2007 This delicious blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah is rich in complexity and has hints of chocolate and caramel. It has an incredible long finish and round, full body. $150
Italian winemaker Alessandro Speri is producing a delicious Malbec with an intense floral nose and hints of chocolate and vanilla. $65
FINCA LA CELIA CABERNET FRANC 2004 Very dark with violet hue, concentrated black fruit, blackberries, blueberries, a bit of currant and spice, mint and a touch of alcohol on the nose. A velvety texture with light tannins. $40
ALTOS LOS HORMIGAS BONARDA COLONIA LOS LIEBRES 2007 This usually sturdy grape gets the soft, fruity treatment from one of Argentina’s most respected wineries. Ripe and dense, it has surprisingly warm tannins. $30
Urban Uco Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Domaine St. Diego Paradigma 2006 60% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bright red color, loaded with earthy notes and smoke, soft red fruits of white cherry, cranberry and plum. $35
Grassy, floral and acidic, with refreshing clean notes of citrus and sweet apricots. The potent fruit flavors burst forth highlighting the delicacy of the grape. $30
TAPIZ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007
OcchioVerde MErlot 2007
Mil Piedras Sangiovese 2005
Despite Mendoza’s constant sunshine, the area is producing some excellent acidic whites and this is one of the best. Strong hints of gooseberry and guava. $35
Round-bodied and silky, this Merlot comes from organic vineyards in the stunning Valle de Uco. Occhioverde is Italian for green eye, revealing the owner’s Italian roots and concern for the environment. $25
A seductive aroma of ripe, jammy fruit with a subtle hint of white chocolate. This Italian grape has found its home in the Uco Valley producing a delicate, dry wine with good body and crisp acidity. $25
Melipal Reserva Malbec 2006
Pulenta Estate La Flor Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Ruca Malen Kinien 2006
Intense ruby red with almost black hints and luscious aromas of over ripe black currants and cooked plums. This complex, full-bodied wine has sweet tannins and a long persistent finish. Decant before drinking. $133
A brilliant greenish-yellow colour with intense aromas of grapefruit and citrus fruits. This wine exhibits a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity with a fresh, long finish. Perfect for sipping on summer afternoons. $36
Ruby red colour with spicy aromas and a delicate touch of pepper among an array of plums, blackberries and cherries. Maturation in French oak barrels provides smokey flavours with vanilla and chocolate overtones. $95
The Winery Guide The Best Places to Visit
Overall Winery Experience Restaurant
Driving Time from Mendoza City
LUJAN DE CUYO Terrazas de los Andes
The fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina is a beautifully restored bodega with well-appointed tasting room. Try the famous Cheval de los Andes. Thames and Cochamaba, Perdriel. Tel. 488 0704/5 www.terrazasdelosandes.com
Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end restaurant Terruño and an instructive wine tour that includes an invigorating horse and carriage ride and a tank, barrel and bottle tasting. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32, Agrelo. Tel. 490 0202. www.tapiz.com
Old-style cellars contrast with high-tech production line. Tank and barrel tastings conducted at this huge facility and the jug fillings on Thursday mornings are popular with the locals. R.P. 15, Km 23.5, Perdriel. Tel. 490 9700. www.norton.com.ar
This Chilean-owned winery creates the label Punto Final, one of Mendoza’s best value Malbecs. Small, modern operation with tour that includes a hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen 1863. Tel. 15 454 6023. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar
Excellent food, great guiding and first-class wines. The pairings over lunch make for an unforgettable culinary experience. Generous tastings and gorgeous views of the vineyards and mountains. Ruta Nacional 7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Lújan de Cuyo. Tel. 562 8357. www. bodegarucamalen.com
Expansive lawns and villa-style architecture make Nieto Senetiner one of the prettiest wineries in Mendoza. Fascinating underground cellar and old style tasting room. Wines to try include their brass-labelled Bonarda. Guardia Vieja (no number) Vistalba. Tel. 498 0315. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar
The original foreign investor, French-owned Chandon has been making great sparkling wines in Mendoza since the 1960s. RP 15, Km 29, Agrelo. Tel. 490 9968. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar
Dominio Del Plata
Argentina´s most famous female winemaker Susana Balbo is creating some rich and complex wines in the heart of Agrelo. Try their Crios and Ben Marco. Cochabamba 7801 AgreloTel(+54) 261 498 9200 www.dominiodelplata.com.ar
Cool minimalist design and rich complex wines make this a winery with finesse and style. Convenient to visit on way to Valle de Uco. Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Tel. 420 0800. www.pulentaestate.com
Old, family owned operation with lots of heritage, handsome cellars and a tasting room. Large selection of wines from low-end to highend blends. San Martin 2044, Mayor Drummond. Tel. 498 1974. www.luigibosca.com.ar
Owner of the oldest white wine in South America. Try the handcrafted sparkling wine made from 100 year old vines; best enjoyed in one of their many courtyards. Ave. San Martin 1745, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 498 0011 Ext. 27. www.lagarde.com.ar
French-owned winery. The building is new with traditional design. The tasting room is a wooden gallery overlooking the barrel room. Refreshingly unpretentious. Roque Sanz Peña no number, Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 498 2330. www.domainevistalba.com
Las Paredes Estates, San Rafael By David Greco Vineyard Country Clubs, small vineyards with privately owned villas, are on the upswing with several large projects announced this past year. But there is one small community of wine aficionados in San Rafael that has made steady progress without the acclaimed winemakers, renowned architects and marquee sports figures of its larger competitors. Las Paredes Estates is now home to three beautiful villas with two more nearing completion. And its Malbec vineyards, planted in 2004, are already producing gold medal winning wine. Featuring golf, horseback riding, river rafting in beautiful Valle Grande and skiing in nearby Las Le単as, San Rafael has a lot to offer tourists, vacation homeowners and relocating expatriates. Only two vineyard estates are available with an attractive combination of below-market pricing and friendly neighbors. www.lasparedesestates.com
Tasting room where one entire wall is a subterranean cross section of the actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks included. Houses French restaurant La Bourgogne. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 498 9400. www.carlospulentawines.com 40 min
Belasco de Baquedano 15 min
CATENA ZAPATA FABRE MONTAMAYOU
Gleaming modern facility with fascinating aroma room and restaurant with Andean view. Cobos 8260. Tel. 153 023 491 www.grupolanavarra.com
Great Malbec and gourmet lunches make Melipal one of the most exclusive wineries to visit. Ruta 7 km 1056, Agrelo. Tel. 524 8040. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar
Makes the highest scoring Argentine wine. Modern boutique close to Mendoza riverbed. Big concentrated wines. Calle Cobos 2601; Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 488 1131. www.achaval-ferrer.com
VALLE DE UCO
Showcase winery designed like a Mayan temple overlooking vineyards and the Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines. Cobos s/n. Tel. 413 1100. www.catenawines.com.
Attractive, modern facility with spectacular views of the mountains from the cozy tasting room. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo. Tel. 524 4748. www.decero.com
Clos de Chacras
Charming boutique operation. A five minute walk from Chacras plaza. Great Merlot and excellent lunches. Monte Libano s/n, Chacras de Coria. Tel. 496 1285. www.closdechacras.com.ar
Architecturally impressive with a huge concrete and glass facade and a massive bottling line. They make some of Argentina´s best bubbly. Ruta Nacional , Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 498 5164 www.bodegaseptima.com
Cava de Cano
Micro-winery set in a beautiful, colonial building. Lunch is a spectacular buffet with every type of delicacy. Av. San Martin 2488, Luján de Cuyo. Tel 498 7283. www.cavadecano.com
Mendoza’s most famous garagista. Carmelo Patti himself is often there to show you around (in Spanish). Try his famous Cabernet Sauvignon from the barrel. San Martin 2614. Tel 498 1379.
Masterful mix of modern and traditional. Tasting includes distinctive Torrontes or single vineyard Malbecs. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Luján de Cuyo. Tel 496 4684. www.altavistawines.com
Designed like a temple to wine, this ultra-concept winery includes a modern art gallery, lodge and chapel, set high in the Andean valley. R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. Tel. 11 4131 1100.www.killkasalentein.com
Most architecturally innovative winery with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent lunches in the modernist visitor center. Their guides are always well-informed and enthusiastic. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos. Tel. 02622/ 451 088. www.ofournier.com
The wines are faultless and the location stunning. A French operation producing excellent Torrontes and Malbec. Ruta 94 km 21, Vista Flores, Tunuyán. Tel. 441 1134. www.bodegalurton.com
Simple, small production winery with not so simple Malbecs and Merlots. R.P 89 s/n. Agua Amarga. Tupungato. Tel. 422 175 www.bodegalaazul.com.ar
CATENA ZAPATA 19
Finca la Celia
One of the valley’s oldest wineries. They conduct excellent tours and tastings. Av. De Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio Bustos, San Carlos. Tel 451 010. www.fincalacelia.com.ar
Clos de los Siete
Visit three wineries in one and try rich, complex wines surrounded by state-of-the-art architecture and wine-making technology. Calle Clodomiro Silva s/n. Tel. 02622/ 422 054. www.clos7.com.ar
Benvenuto de la Serna
Familia Zuccardi 90 min
Charming, family-run operation making a very decent Sangiovese under the Mil Piedras label. Carril Los Sauces s/n, VistaFlores, Tunuyan. Tel. 420 0782. www.benvenutodelaserna.com
A red barn-like winery which faces a lovely adobe-style restaurant doing excellent lunches. Las Vencedoras, Tupungato. Tel. 155 080 261. www.altusdetupungato.com.ar
The old-world style tasting room looks upon dramatic views of vineyards against mountains. Have a cup of the cabernet, their best wine. Ruta Provincial 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. Tel. 429 9299 ext 113. www.andeluna.com
Modern, French winery making rich, organic malbecs. Read article on page 22 for more details. Ruta 89 S/N Km 7, Tupungato. Tel. 261 155 274 048. www.jeanbousquet.com
Rutini La Rural
Argentina’s biggest winery is a mix of old and new, traditional and industrial. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito. Tel. 520 7666. www.trapiche.com.ar
Steeped in history and tradition. Charming, pink-hued, colonial-style bodega, set in the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu. Recommended is the top blend Dedicado. Munives 800, Barrancas, Maipú. Tel. (0261) 497 2039. www.flichman.com
Small, charming, French-owned winery offering personal tours and well-honed wines. Surrounded by vineyards and olive trees. Videla Arande 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú. Tel. 499 0470 www.carinaevinos.com
A fine modern winery set in the rural lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop terrace ovelooks the vineyard. Great Pleno label. Perito Moreno 572, Maipu. Tel. 481 3501. www.tempusalba.com
Popular, old-style winery with handsome tasting room close to Maipu plaza. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez. Tel. 481 1091. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar
Officially the oldest winery in Mendoza. Rustic with pleasant restaurant. Urquiza 8136, Russel. Tel. 155 878 900. www.mendozaheights.com.ar
Well-stocked museum with invaluable antiques such as cowhide wine presses and buckets. Giant oak tanks stand in large, cavernous halls whilst side rooms hold Victorian era pumps and bottle corkers. Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maipu. Tel. (0261) 497 2013 ext.125. www.bodegalarural.com.ar
A professional, far-sighted operation. The guides are always enthusiastic, knowledgable and eager to please. Attractive restaurant amidst the vines, famous for its asado-style lunches and generous wine pourings. Ruta Provincial 33, Km 7.5, Maipu. Tel (0261) 441 0000. www.familiazuccardi.com
A down-to-earth, family-run affair with good wholesome Malbecs. España 1094, La Consulta, Sa Carlos. 02622 / 470 0379
Rich history and richer wines. Lovely old bodega with lots of character. Mendoza’s best Cabernet Franc. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. Tel. 496 0794. www.bodegabenegas.com
Tastes Like Home Stephen Reiss discovers a special winery, Jean Bousquet, in a special place, valle de uco
This story starts over 20 years ago when my wife Jan and I found out about the incredible bargains available on around-the-world air fares. We put it off for years but swore the day would come when we would sell everything and take off to circumnavigate the globe. In May of 2008 our time came. We sold almost everything we owned and hopped on the plane for the adventure of a lifetime. As a wine writer and a trained chef my itinerary leaned heavily towards destinations with grapes and culinary delights. We tasted our way through Eastern Europe and headed for Southeast Asia where we were astounded to find wines being made in India, and even more amazed at the quality of the wines being made in Thailand. We ended our journey savoring the flavors of Chile and Argentina. When we set out on our whirlwind adventure we were open to the idea of relocating, but we had no specific plans. When we started to meet people in Argentina we realized that we were in a land of unparalleled hospitality. Everyone was genuinely friendly and eager to bend over backwards to make our stay perfect. Not that everyone in every other country we met were not also wonderful, but there was something special about Argentina. There was also something special about the wines. I have been tasting and writing about wine for a long time, therefore I am not easily impressed. Like so many others, I found the Malbecs of Argentina to be very much to my taste. These were not my first Malbecs from Argentina, but tasting so many in a short time taught me something I hadnâ€™t known. Malbec is one of the more expressive grapes in that it exhibits the characteristics of where it is grown more than most other varieties.
Grande Reserve Malbec was the ultimate wine for me. The flavors were intense with dark fruits and black pepper leaping out of the glass. The quality of the wine, and the unbelievable price of only 45 pesos prompted me to give the Malbec the only perfect score I have awarded in years. Eventually Jean and his daughter Anne Bousquet, the managing partner, asked if I would consider joining the team to create a hospitality program for the winery. I jumped at the chance, and after only a few weeks back in the States to get our lives in order, Jan and I moved to Argentina. Domaine Jean Bousquet is the largest producer of organic wines in Argentina, and I obviously think the wines are good enough that I was willing to change my life to be part of the winery. I had a huge task ahead of me. With the tourist season just a few months away I had to create a tasting room and small restaurant completely from scratch. With my rudimentary Spanish skills, and my ever encouraging spouse at my side, we managed to pull it off. La Sala (The Lounge) became the name of the tasting room, a fitting monument to the goal of excellent simplicity that has become our motto. Open for lunch seven days a week by reservation, we have been welcoming visitors for several months now.
While anyone is welcome to book a reservation for a lunch and tour, it is the Trout & Wine tour groups that really get to take advantage of what we have to offer. These small groups are treated to the opportunity to enjoy a fivecourse meal prepared right in front of them by Photographer: Janet Engelhard yours truly. It is like attending a wine/cooking/ photography class, but a whole lot more fun, It was with this revelation in mind that I made my way to visit and punctuated all the way through with the incredible wines of Domaine Jean Bousquet in Tupungato, about one hour south of Domaine Jean Bousquet. Mendoza. The winery turned out to be owned and run by Jean Bousquet himself; a rarity in this day when so many bodegas I hope to see you at the bodega. Come by to say hi, enjoy some are named after long passed patriarchs or anything except the wines and sign our guest book. We would love to share our little winemaker. Jean and I got along famously. His obsession for quality piece of heaven with you. matched my own, and our discussions lasted several days, often into the wee hours. The unimpeded flow of wine made conversation About the Author: Stephen Reiss, Ph.D. is a trained chef and a lively, even if my limited French and Spanish made communicating Certified Wine Educator. He is the author of several books on wine and the web site www.wineeducation.com. a bit difficult. Jeanâ€™s wines are all about expressing the climate and soil of where the grapes are grown. The hot days and cold nights of Tupungato allow the grapes to develop aromas and flavors that the warmer regions to the North can only dream of. The Domaine Jean Bousquet 22
Trout & Wine conducts daily tours to Valle De Uco, which visit and conduct tastings at three wineries. Lunch is served at the superb Jean Bousquet winery. (261) 425 5613. Espejo 266, Mendoza. www.troutandwine.com. Price: $145 US per person
By Amanda May As the saying goes: When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Following this logic, when you’re in Argentina, eat, sleep and say it how it is. Below, we have compiled a cheat sheet to clue you in on some of the cultural nuances that make Argentina so very Argentine.
meal of the day), see family and catch a few zzz’s. Because of this, the workday ends around 8 p.m., but it’s considered worth it for quality of life. Besides, most of the stores are closed from 1 p.m.- 4 p.m., so you might as well take a snooze!
Hellos and Goodbyes Entering a room full of Argentines takes a while. As is the custom, you should go around and say hello and kiss everyone once on the cheek. Repeat as you leave. And yes, we mean everyone in the room, including babies. If you decide to slink out without the kisses, be aware you run the risk of seeming rude or cold.
Dining Thanks to the siesta, you may actually be able to keep your eyes open at dinner, which may begin as late as 11 p.m.! This local schedule may actually work in your favor, as it is never a problem to get a table at 9 p.m., though most likely your fellow diners will be foreigners. It’s not just the late start that makes dinner an endurance activity. Argentines also usually partake in what’s called the sobre mesa or “over the table,” which is basically an extended chatting time after the meal. It´s very rare for a waiter to hover or rush a table out; in fact you usually have to go to extreme lengths to get the bill.
Asado Grilled over the embers of poplar trees, asado (bbq) is a staple in the diet, social and family life of nearly every Argentine. In fact, Argentina’s per capita consumption of beef is way off the charts. Eating a stunning average of 150 pounds of red meat a year, Argentines consume double the USA’s average and almost quadruple England’s. Siesta While passing out for hours after a big lunch may not generally be socially acceptable back home, here taking a siesta may even be considered a compliment to the chef! Even during the week it’s common to go home for lunch (the biggest
Separation Another notable difference at gatherings here in Mendoza is the separation of the sexes. While it’s not always the case, it isn’t odd to see all the males of a group on one side of the table, with all the females on the other. When asked why the dining sex segregation exists, most Argentines give the same answer, “So can men talk about what interests men and women can talk about what interests women.”
Punctuality (or lack thereof) It is not a big deal to be late. In fact, the more time you’re here, you’ll come to expect it. Outside of tourist excursions and buses, nothing runs like clockwork. Invitations that say 9 p.m. should really be translated as 10 or 11 p.m. This is not considered rude, it’s just how it is. If your instincts won’t let you show up late, do yourself a favor and bring a book because you’re going to be waiting for a while. Football/Soccer Fútbol, as it’s known here, is the national passion and has the power to capture the whole country’s attention. International offices are shut down, streets are abandoned and appointments cancelled during the World Cup. On an average Sunday, it is normal to watch hours and hours of soccer after a big asado, especially, but not exclusively for men. Political Correctness In general, Argentines are not worried about political correctness, from other people or themselves. We assure you, in no other place would someone so readily admit to being 30, overweight and living with their parents. According to your weight, you are labeled either gordo/a (fatty) or flaco/a (skinny). Despite the bluntness, these comments do not regularly inspire anxiety or weight complexes. In fact, weight is an open topic that is regularly commented on by locals. Friends and family members make you immediately own up to a few extra
pounds and will probably try to serve you an extra helping if you are looking a little thin. Age isn’t off limits either. Many people even mention this taboo subject in conversation of their own accord. If you have dark skin and hair you will be called negro/a (darky) and you don’t even have to have blonde hair to be a rubio/a (blondie); all it takes is light skin. This call-it-how-it-is honesty doesn’t stop there. Just consider yourself lucky if you aren’t called pelado/a (baldie) or enano/a (shorty/dwarf). Also, Spaniards are gallego/a (Galician), Arabs turco/a (Turkish) and all Asians chino/a (Chinese). The same follows suit with Americans; despite the many years since the end of the Civil War, they are known as yanquis (Yankees). Romance It’s quite normal here to live at home until reaching the age of 30 or marriage, whichever comes first. It is rare for “children” to move out of the house before that, even to study. Most stay in the city they were born, keeping family ties strong. It is not, however, normal to be single until you’re 30, which makes for awkward dating sleepovers. But Argentina’s got an answer for that as well… introducing the telo. These “romance hotels” are reserved by the hour or the night and aren’t nearly as sketchy as they sound. Like hotels, there are options for every budget. The level corresponds to price, the highest of which may include jacuzzis or even themed rooms.
Mate Pronounced “mah-tay,” this beverage is made from yerba mate leaves steeped in hot water drunk from a hollowed-out gourd with a metal straw. It tastes somewhat like a rustic green tea and it seems there are no situations that don’t call for it: the beach, at home, at soccer matches, with friends in the park, at the office, etc. It can be drunk with or without sweetener, though for many outsiders as well as some locals, without may be considered too bitter. How to Prepare a Mate
1. Fill the gourd ½ to ¾ full with yerba mate. Cover with your hand and turn it over a couple of times to get most of the mate powder out. Add sweetener, if desired.
2. Moisten the mate 3. Pour hot (but not boiling) with a little bit of room water until it nearly fills temperature water and let the cup. sit for 30 sec. - 1 min.
4. Cover the bombilla, or “metal straw’s” top with your thumb and firmly insert to the bottom of the gourd. Do not stir or move it after this.
5. Sip from the bombilla until all the water is gone. Refill with water and pass to the next person.
6. When you’re done for the day, empty the yerba into the garbage and leave the gourd out to dry. Notes: The hotter the water, the stronger the brew. Also, yerba mate con palo (with stems) and the suave (smooth) options are not as bitter as pure leaf blends. A nice summer variation to this steamy beverage is to use a halved grapefruit as the gourd and cold water. Model: Daniel Seifert- Photographer: Julia Allen - Gourd designed and crafted by: Marcelo Octavio Rozades and Cecilia Lopez Rubia. Located in Plaza Independencia.
dining out mendoza city flora
Ladies and Gentleman, Flora has expanded to Mendoza Center. Originally in Chacras, this culinary fusion of Argentinean and European cuisine has now reopened in Mendoza city center. The décor of beautiful carved wood and high ceilings makes Flora the perfect backdrop to any special evening. Upon visiting, the wait staff went above and beyond normal service standards and patiently accommodated the indecisive nature of my group. On beautifully set tables, our salads were served fresh alongside homemade breads and delectable spreads. You’ll have trouble choosing between the gourmet entrées such as glazed chicken, rack of lamb, sandwiches, and grilled fish in paper; all fit to be paired with a wine from their extensive wine list. For dessert I recommend the tasting platter, with a sweet bite or two of all they offer. Come hungry because this is the type of place you want to partake in all the courses. Belgrano 1069. Tel: 261-420-4322. MonSat 11:00am–15:00pm and 18:00pm -01:00am. Avg. meal cost: $40.00 pesos
smell of meat smoldering over live coals wafts from the kitchen through the restaurant, heralding all of the savory flavors to come. The restaurant has two main spaces: the interior and the exterior, “El Deck.” The internal concept is of tranquility and slow cooked meals, whereas “El Deck” is more laid back and nice for fast plates, like tapas. On the menu you’ll find savory dishes of thinly sliced raw deer (carpaccio de ciervo,) smoked salmon (charqui de salmon) and crepes of spider crab and shrimps (crepes de centolla y camarones.) Tempting desserts like the Baileys parfait is fit to follow. It’s impossible to ignore the extraordinary quality and the cozy ambiance. Perú 1192.Tel. 261- 4232387. Monday–Saturday, 20:30pm-close.
ocho cepas la sal
Beautifully renovated from a large, colonialstyle house, Ocho Cepas casually exudes elegance and culinary expertise. The dominant concept on the menu is asado, for which head Chef Max Casá is famous. The 28
After a stint in Thailand, French-Argentinean owner Emmanuel Smith came to Mendoza with a handful of ingredients and some big ideas. A few months later Wasana was born, a two-storey restaurant with a swanky artist’s vibe and food that boasts the uncommon Argentinean adjective, healthy. Out front, a sea of red couches are situated in front of walls of bamboo and stone. It’s a great setup to chill with friends at Happy Hour, where you’ll soon be grinning with the buy-one-getone-free drink special. Inside mellow lighting of orange, yellow and red mingles with funky music and bold art work. The home-style architecture, separated into rooms, makes this large restaurant intimate. For couples I recommend requesting a spot on the outdoor
wasana deck upstairs. The food is a Mendocinan´s version of Thai, not too spicy with tender meats. They make special efforts to give a beautiful plate presentation using garnishes of complementary colours. I had the Ensalada Tibia de Cerdo and the Masa Maan Nua which were unavoidably similar in flavour but both very tasty. For dessert the Platano Crocante and Mascarpone are delicious! Their in-house sommelier can give you a great suggestion from the 50+ bottle wine list and if you like what you hear sign-up for their Sunday wine classes. Aristides Villanueva 785. Tel. 261425-6762. Tuesday-Sunday, Bar 18:30Close, Kitchen 20:30-1am. Happy Hour from 18:30-20:30 & 24-1:30 12pm-1am. Avg. Meal cost: $50 pesos
Best friends Gustavo and Charlie have realized their dream of opening a restaurant together with this hip eatery on Aristides Villanueva. They pride themselves on being the only restaurant on Aristides Avenue with traditional Argentine bbq asado and wine. Although this rustic style restaurant specializes in beef, its menu also includes salads, sandwiches, pizzas and a unique selection of papas fritas (French fries). Everything is freshly cooked so prepare to have a bit of patience. There is a good wine list and outdoor seating on the lively sidewalk. The lounge in the back is filled with antique furniture and perfect for talking and enjoying a drink. The plates are big, the wait staff is friendly, and the location is central
to the best nightlife. *Look for their coupon inside the magazine! Aristides Villanueva 495. Tel: 261- 425-0420. Everyday, 11:00 am - 3:00 am. Avg. meal cost: $25.00 pesos
For a romantic evening outdoors Anna Bistro is unsurpassable. Carved wood tables adorned with candles are nestled between exotic flowering plants and hanging vines. Couple this with soft lighting and tranquil jazz, and any mundane evening is transformed into a memorable event. A menu of delectable dishes, from ceviche and cesto de portobello (pastry piled with mushrooms and walnuts), to melt-in-your-mouth salmon al limon and trout, produce an unavoidable bout of indecisiveness. The Anna Bistro staff swear by the T-Bone steak and local Malbec combo. End the feast with a Blackberry Cheesecake and glass of bubbly on the sunken sofas for a quick trip to nirvana. Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: 261-425-1818. Everyday 12pm - 1am. Avg. meal cost: $45.00 pesos
Sarmiento street west of Plaza Independencia is where most of Mendoza’s high-end parrilla style restaurants are located, many of varying style and quality. Señor Buque is undoubtedly one of the best, with attentive service and English-speaking waiters. The menu is a carnivor´s dream, serving giant, 700 gram tibon steaks, chivo (kid goat) and a mixed grill
offering beef, chicken and pork. For those who like their veggies the salad bar offers 20 varieties of greens. Also on the menu is a variety of fresh pastas, seafood casseroles and paella, all pairable with a wine list of 40 labels. Sarmiento 777. Tel. 425 3667. Open from 10am to 2am.
If you’re after mariscos (shrimp) Praga is undoubtedly the best restaurant in town,. specializing in creative seafood dishes such as sea urchin, Spanish octopus and shrimp chop suey. Each item is primed to be partnered with a vino from their spectacular wine list, the bottles of which are stored in an air-conditioned side room, aptly named, “Farmacia.” No wonder it’s a popular hangout for many of Mendoza’s prominent winemakers. In front of Praga is a scenic plaza giving this restaurant the romantic charge of a Parisian tryst. Inside is an atmospheric courtyard framed in wood timber. The delightful, Boterostyle paintings that hang on the pale yellow walls are created by the owner’s wife, Lucía Arra, and are available for purchase. Desserts of crème brulée and chocolate crepes with orange will have you swimming in AphroditePoseidon bliss. Leonidas Aguirre 413. Tel: 261- 425-9585. pragamarisqueria.com.ar. Monday - Saturday, 20:00pm-1.30am. Avg. meal cost: $50.00 pesos
and taste, book a room in one of their seven Renaissance-style villas. Don’t forget to call ahead for dinner reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú. Tel: 261-496-0131. www.tapiz. com. Lunch, everyday, 12:00pm-15:00pm. Dinner, Sunday-Thursday, 20:00pm-23:00pm, Friday & Saturday ‘til 24:00pm. Avg. meal cost: $45 pesos
Casa de Campo
For rustic charm and traditional dishes visit Casa de Campo; A 15-minute taxi ride from Mendoza city center. Think welcoming casa with wooden beams, intimate tables and a small but lively verandah. Locals flock for the mouth-watering Argentine fare. Appetizers come in a taster’s collection of home-made goodies, from bread, prosciuttio and olive oil to sausage, pickled eggplant, cheeses and olives. Save some room for their clay oven specialties of succulent rabbit and suckling pig. “Grandma´s Menu,” the dish of the day, is made from in-season, locally grown produce. Complement this with a bottle from their extensive wine list and the result is a flavor combination of gourmet quality. A picturesque stroll to Rutini La Rural bodega, just ten minutes away, is a wonderful way to conclude the afternoon. Urquiza 1516, Coquimbito, Maipu. Tel: 26-481-1605. www.casadecampomza. com. Everyday 12pm-18pm. Avg. meal cost: $35.00 pesos
outside city center Terruño-Club Tapiz Resort´s
Tucked away among the sprawling Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort and its lovely restaurant Terruño. This handsome eatery boasts an elegant interior, excellent service and a wine list that is sure to please even the most finicky of wine snobs. Their chef compiles a tantalising menu that includes topnotch lomo steaks, a rotating range of salads and a savory ginger/honey chicken dish that is second to none. If you like what you see
casa de campo 29
bars inside Mendoza City
The list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. *Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t even get started until 2am.
BELIEVE IRISH PUB
One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-video montages or football games. Monday night is International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-4295567. www.believeirishpub.com.ar
THE VINES OF MENDOZA
As the first and only true tasting room in South America, The Vines of Mendoza offers the broadest selection of premium boutique wines from Argentina. Compare the wine notes with one of their tasting flights or chose a glass from the impressive list of limited production wines. Chatting with their learned bartenders and sipping fabulous flavours on the patio under a canopy of vines makes for a truly enjoyable afternoon. *Join their Acequia Wine Club if you wish to regularly receive these exclusive Argentinean wines. Espejo 567, Tel. 0261 4381031. Monday-Saturday, 15:00pm–22:00pm www.vinesofmendoza.com
Noisy and young but always fun. Por Aca is a big old house converted into numerous little 30
beer drinking hideaways. Watch you don’t get usurped by the constant gangs of pizza-eating birthday partiers. Conversation will involve shouting and cupping one ear but this is more than compensated by the good-looking clientele. Aristides Villanueva 557. Tel. 261-420-0346
This Argentinean brewery originated in Mar de Plata from three friends sharing one great idea, “to rescue the true brewing tradition.” They’ve fathered some great artesanal brews and in a country as wine-crazy as Argentina, going the beer route was a gutsy move. They managed to pull it off (the tap, that is) and since 1998 successfully launched ten locations around Argentina. On the busy street of Arístides you’ll find the Mendoza location. It’s your classic upscale beer bar, heavy on the wood, brass and warm lighting. Their beers, Honey, Cream, Barely and Kolsh, sound more like swimsuit models than drink-list items and perhaps justly so, for these frothy sirens are blissfully designed and certainly something to drool over. Arístides Villanueva 153 Tel. 261-4238327. Everyday from 19:00pm-close. Happy Hour everyday from 19:00pm-20:00pm. www.cervezaantares.com
La Reserva Pub
This is the best disco bar in the city center and with a healthy mix of transsexuals, shemales, gays, strays and straights, a dancefloor wallflower will stay very entertained. The drag shows and cabaret acts are flamboyant and outrageous and would rival any 1920s Berlin revue. MC Tranny La Turca is a Mendoza legend and the dance shows are often peppered with witty comedy sketches. Despite the alternative entertainment the bar attracts a mixed crowd who are known to jump on stage and join in the fun. Go late. Rivadavia 32, Tel. 261- 420-3531
Mendoza may appear as a conservative buttoned down city but it has a thriving alternative scene and a vibrant gay nightlife. Queen is a pioneering
club showcasing the city’s most colourful and eccentric night owls. This medium-sized club is located several blocks south of the bus terminal and is open Fridays and Saturdays, the second night attracting a mixed crowd who come for fantastic drag shows followed by dance music and Latino beats. 25 de Mayo 318, Dorrego Tel. 261- 431-5846. www.queenmendoza.com
outside city center carilo nightclub and restaurant
The newly opened restaurant is the latest extension to one of Mendoza’s best superclubs Carilo in El Challao. Now you can eat, drink and dance under several terraces, roofs and stars in one location. The restaurant puts together alfresco dining and cabaret with a plasma screen showing various divas in concert. Energetic waiters manage the tiered seating and deliver light meat, fish and vegetarian dishes. Should you forget that the night is still young, vodka, Speed energy drink and Fernet are on hand in addition to a good selection of wine. The nightclub brings in guest DJs on Fridays to play styles from electronica to trance to techno. Saturdays groove to a different beat with retro hits from the 70s and 80s but the club’s four dance floors aren’t just there for looks. Get out there and shake a little! Las Estaciones S/N El Challao Tel. 261- 444-6835
One of the bigger night clubs close to the city center. It has a huge dance floor in the biggest of its three rooms and two bars. The crowd ranges from about eighteen to late twenties, weighted one way or the other depending on the night. The music is a mix of rock and reggaeton with the occasional cuarteto song. The cover is $20 pesos and ladies get in free. Don’t stress over directions as most taxi drivers are well acquainted with the location. Av. San Martin 905. Tel. 26115-453-1038. www.iskradiscopub.com.ar
Police, Fire Department and Emergency Medical: Dial 911 Bus Terminal Tel: 431-3001 Av. de Acceso Este and Costanera. Bus Routes: Maipu, Linea 10 N° 171, 172, 173, Rioja sreet and Garibaldi. Chacras, N° 115 or 116, 25 de Mayo and Motivideo. Airport Tel: 448 0017 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. Shipping Wine Ordinary post will not ship wine and courier can cost at least $12 US a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. Crime Be alert. Medoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. Bike Tours in Maipu The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (see above) to Urquiza street where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended wineries: Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso and certainly Carinae. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. Nightclubs In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. Taxi Services Service Taxi Godoy Cruz Tel: 427-0055 - Radiomóvil Guaymallén Tel: 445-5855 - Mendocar Paraná 250 Tel: 423-6666 - La Veloz del Este Alem 439 Teléfono: 423-9090