Issuu on Google+

1


For my FMP am going to look in to sports wear from New York (America) and combined it with the British culture of sport.I want the collection to be very typically American with the hot American football players outfits.I want it to be sports wear that is fashionable and wearable,focusing on colours which you'd want to wear whilst playing sport. Id like to take an essence that we have seen of New Yorks fashion week of only depicting a few base colours 3/5 for an outfit.The garments will be exciting and follow in the direction of other sports wear desingers such as JW Anderson- A/W-14

2


013

L D N / N Y C F A S H I O N W E E K

017

M E N S C O L L E C T I O N S

022

S P O R T S W E A R

029

COLOUR

031

M O O D B O A R D

037

I N I T A L I D E A S

041

I N S I D E T H E I R B A G S

045

FABRICS

053

DESIGNS

069

G A R M E N T C O N S T R U C T I O N

075

PHOTOSHOOT

087

CATWALK

3


LONDON FASHON WEEK A/W-14-15

4


5


MEETS

NEW YORK FASHON WEEK A/W-14-15

6


7


8


COMPARE & RELATE You just have to take a look and compare a few collections from London fashion week 2014 to New York’s to spot we both have two very clear directions in how risky we can both go.... By far, we can all admit London is the capital for the hub of fashion.

Just lookLondon- it’s booming with colour and excitement. We take risks and don’t give a ..... what anyone else thinks. Take Vivian Westwood “Climate” collection from S.S 2013, as a prime example. She wasn’t setting herself out to have a collection that just for the fashion of today, but was the fashion for the future, a message that we should be more “saving of the world”

9


FRONT ROW Being on font row at a fashion week is just as important as the show it self. All the top names in the industry are on it, not just in fashion, but music influences and model influences, from Anna Wintour, Kate Moss, to Harry Styles. By having such big names attend these fashion events and by getting paid for these appearances from the designers, it draws the media to the collections that then we want to look in to and have connections with just because our idols supposedly like them 10

Above- Burberry fashion week London- Harry Styes and Paloma Faith Grace Coddington and Anna Wintour, 2 of the biggest names in fashion to date.


CELEBRITY ENDORSEMENT Along with the big names that attend these fashion shows to be on the front row, we also have some of the biggest names in showbiz attending to actually be on the catwalk them-selves. Kendall Jenner, one of the 6 sisters of the Kardashian family, from the US, biggest reality TV program “Keeping up with the Kardashians� has become a top model. Above is her at New York fashion week for Marc Jacobs. 11

Above- Who we all know as Katy Perry, not known too much for her fashion but for her singing. She was featured alongside Rita ora at Jeremy Scott's debut Moschino at Milan Fashion Week.


I LOVE!!

Burberry PRE FALL 2014 “Which brings us to pre-fall of Burberry. Absolutely no signs of upheaval here. If a n y t h i n g , t h e c o l l e c t i o n reflects a gentler return to eclectic British style with a younger, more casual edge and a welcome dash of fun. Using m a d e - i n - B r i t a i n a r t s a n d crafts–inspired materials, there are lace skirts and romantically droopy dresses, r i c h l o z e n g e - p a t t e r n e d j a c q u a r d s a n d c h u n k i l y luxurious jackets patchworked in shearling and fur. In a witty nod to the local-global r e a c h o f t h e B u r b e r r y , there’s also a souvenir collectible for everyone: Tshirts printed with black-andwhite line drawings of St. Paul’s Cathedral in Loodon, the Chrysler building in New York, the Forbidden City in B e i j i n g , a n d s o o n . I f there’s a message, it’s this: Let’s all relax. For a transitional season, at a transitional time, this is a nice way to go”

Opposite- I absolutely love this wool trench duffle coat as it wear, or even a blanket jacket. The tailoring for this garment is to such a high standard, with the cuff of the sleeve just above the wrist- perfect for an addition of a Burberry watch, to compliment the look and bring it together In any collection it is important to stick to a colour way of 3 or 5 coulors, within this look Burberry have gone for five, with black and white as being their vocal point and maroon, and acid yellow for the bag, and navy blue for the high waisted trousers.

12


13


SIBLINGS

MENS COLLECTIONS

“Colourful, well-made, luxury knitwear fo r a man bo red with the grey V-neck o ption”

14


DESIGNER NAMES: Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery

ORIGIN: The designers come from Yorkshire, Leicester and London respectively.

BACKGROUND: A collaboration between Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery, SIBLING is all for one and one for all. The three bring with them a strong heritage of experience with top name designers. SIBLING launched on May 29th 2008 born out of a desire to give knitwear for men a good old fashioned shake-up with cartoon ka-pows of colour and bams of very English humour. IDEAL CLIENT: “A man of any age with a sense of humour as defined in his sense of fashion.”

TRADEMARK PIECE: “If it were a popularity contest, it would be a fight between the Knit Monster and the printed Knitted Biker. Knit Monster probably wins although we do produce a version of both a biker jacket and a fair isle most seasons. As a signature look, it’s probably a punked-up fair isle scarf under a knitted biker.”

COLLECTION: “Workmen, traditional knit stitches, Irish Travellers by Alen Macweeney, Peter Howson, mudlarking as seen at the vitrines at the Institute of Contemporary Art's Off Site exhibition.”

O N E P L A C E I N L O N D O N T H AT A LWA Y S I N S P I R E S Y O U : “Brick Lane, which is part of the short walk from our homes to the studio.”

15


16


Autumn/Winter 2013 Siblings brought out there accentuate mens collection. The collection was the most “hottest” collection of the season. The garments for the collection are all knitted, from all sorts of fabrics and dies, from wool to polyester. The garments were over the top, flamboyant and outrageous. The collection was design for winter in mind and is all to do with thick heavy garments, but some-times leaving a little to the cold in places. The collection is made up of 6 base colours, black, grey, white, baby pink, baby blue and a hot red. As the outfits came out they were ordered with the palest at the start in baby blue, to pink, red then black. The first outfit that came out had a quote on the top “Please kill me”reflecting on winter is on its way and you need to wrap up. I suppose the colours of the collection of baby blue and pink fill you with joy of how beautiful everything can be in the winter then to black and red of the dingy weather which we all despise

17


SPORTS WEAR

What to look out for....

TOPSHOP COLLABORATES WITH ADIDAS Just recently TOPSHOP has signed a contract with Adidas original for their S/S 14’ Reimangin classic items from the sportswear brand’s extensive archive. Key pieces from the fashion sportswear range include slim-fit three stripe track bottoms, London print sweaters, vests and sneakers. The collection will infuse sportswear with femininity, and can be worn for both fashion and performance.Styles include tailored tracksuit bottoms with Adidas's signature triple stripe; slouchy scoop-neck vests with drop armholes; athletic shorts with floral detailing; and hoodies baring the Adidas logo. The range will also i n c l u d e f o o t w e a r , w i t h n e w interpretations of the sport brand's Superstar, Tech Super and Attitude trainers. Prices start at £25 for a vest and rise to £90 for the Tech Super trainers.

18


19


STORE LAUNCH

Y- 3 F L O R A L STREET STORE Just recently Y-3 opened the doors to its second London store this week located in the heart of Covent Garden at 12 Floral Street, WC2.Showcasing the brand’s relationship with technology the store uses a dynamic lighting system that creates different ambience for product areas depending on the time of day and season. The store debuts the Autumn/Winter 2013 collection and carries men’s and women’s apparel, footwear and accessories. 2013 marks ten years of Y-3′s pioneering sportswear line designed by Yohii Yamamoto The layout of the store is very minimal, with very few accent colours coming though from some of the garments. The collection of garments are ‘ready to wear’ garments, as-well as quite out beat vibrant colours which brings a fresh and pure life to the store.

Visit the full collection at http://www.hervia.com/y-3-yohji-yamamoto-m36

20


F A L L A / W 1 4

21

Y3


JW ANDERSON COLLECTIONS F/W 14’

Mr Anderson has recently brought out his winter c o l l e c t i o n , b r i n g American lifestyle to the London mens collections 14’

The garments them selves are quite dynamic, with the turtle neck and boxed shoulders, but the book is actually very simple and effective.

As far as sports wear in fashion goes this was one o f t h e b i g g e s t c o l l e c t i o n s t h a t w a s t a l k e d a b o u t a m o n g s t other sports designers, and the big names like Nike and Adidas.

You’d like to think that its been knitted, but sorry to say its not. It’s a synthetic fabric p r o b a b l y m i x e d w i t h cotton, which can be pleated to create very geometric lines of the garment. As the garment is sports wear, he’s looked very closely in to what you need for sports wear, you need it to be durable, moveable and comfy to wear, as it is p r o b a b l y m i x e d w i t h something like cotton is means it is cool to wear and can let the body breath.

The collection featured, b o x e d s h o u l d e r s , r e f l e c t i n g o n t h e American football team. The colours both match the US and UK flag for the outfit, red white and blue.

22


23


24


COLOUR REFERENCING

PANTONE P a n t o n e c o l o u r r e f e r e n c e i s t h e worlds biggest collur specialist in the world, it is a colour reference which used on a global scale for matching colours. It is used in all kinds of design, from fashion, interior, graphic design ect. W h e n c h o o s i n g a colour to paint a w a l l a t h o m e f o r example they are all p a n t o n e c o l o u r s w e a t h e r t h e y a r e deluxe or Crown they will both relate to t h e s a m e p a n t o n e reference, so you can find the same colopur in both stores. Opposite are some of t h e c o l o p u r variations which I have selected from the official pantone reference, What I think is key of the kind of they which I go for are to h a v e n o t t o m a n y colours of an outfit w h i c h I c o m e t o designing, and they are all quite neutral with an accent of colour coming though 25


CLASS OF 2014

26


Prada has recently launched their 2014 campaign, feating a class of girls, with very bright garments, enhancing the rainbow effect of colours. All the models have the same hair style, and only one of the models is of a different race. Discrimination or not? You decide... The shoot is as if its a class of 2014 girls with their sports socks on, who’m are looking very stylish. As we have seen in the last issue of Vogue, and coming out the London cat walk is a lot of bright colours- (Chanel- page before) This add from Prada is not exactly ‘them’ you’d expect this add to be from Tommy Hilfigure or Paul Smith with the bright colours and lots of people. The shoot it’s self is very simple with a plain nutral black/grey backdrop. On 27 some of the garments there are faces of the other models, in a style of pop art, with the bright opposite colours next to one another.


COLOUR OF THE YEAR

28


CELINE 2014 CAMPAIGN

29


S P O R T S

W E A R

Within the next chapter of this magazine, it will feature my initial thoughts on where to take my sports wear collection, in directions of: colour, print, shape, fabrics and the concept

Why is sports wear suddenly become so fashionable? Particularly in the UK and the US, sports wear is the largest growing department in fashion, because people are so much moor keen to do sport, with the wide variety of sports which are available to-date.

ENJOY ! 30


MOOD BOARD

31


HOOD BY AIR

Hood by air has just launched their 2-14 pre- fall classics collection. The collection is made up of 16 looks. The looks are all very futuristic, with extraordinary fabric manipulations, it includes slashing, pleating, folding of fabrics and various printing techniques. Among the look, to combined the garments together they have used a lot of zips, buckles and other metal fastenings to tie pieces together.

If you look closely at some of the other outfits on their website, you’ll notice how the outfits have a very minimal colour pallet. Although they have an accent of colour it is neutral and ties in with the complimenting colours. What I’d really like to take from this collection and use it in my own are the influences of the heavy weight fabric in which you can mold to make sculptural pieces, which can be contend with a print, with in the way it shall fall/hold http://hypebeast.com/2014/1/hood-by-air-debuts-2014-pre-fall-classics-collectionand-announces-new-online-store

32


33


SPORTS BAGS

To celebrate Lactose's 80th anniversary, they invited nine top fashion houses to create exclusive gifts showcasing their expert craftsmanship, referencing the iconic Lacoste crocodile The gifts ranged from all shorts of accessories and their iconic polo top which they are famous for. Above- Hemes created this tennis bag with a built in tennis racket holder using genuine crocodile skin. Personally I absolutely love these two bags above which I have selected as some of the gifts. Their both so pure to the brand, reflecting the brands image with the colour way and keeping in mind the brands market of sports wear For my collection I am very keen not to just have an outfit of garments but also have some kind of sports accessory to go with each look. E.g. 3 bags which can all be matched with different garments, therefore the collection shall sit well together 34


Although Issy Miyake’s Bao Bao bags are not seen as being used a sports bag but has more usage as being a shopping tote bag. The bag is an iconic statement feature for anyone to recognize. I suppose I am not referencing this as a sports bag, but I’m keen to take inspiration from Issey though the geometric shapes that he has used though this statement bag. & also though-out the rest of his collection. I love the way the bag has so many key shapes that it is made up from. First small triangles which make up a square with gaps between to make the circle, which ever way you look at it you see different shapes appearing. I would say the way in which I love to work is though key shapes, though pattern cutting or print I can visualize how a pattern can adapt and can be carried though as a link between the garments which I design

35


FT HTSI Sportswear

36


“It’s officially the first day of Spring so time to start working on that kick-ass summer body!” http://ftape.com/media/?p=75424

37


INSIDE HIS BAG

Pryer to designing my collection I wanted to look in to what people take to the gym in their sports bag. Finding out what their essentials are, the types of fabrics they find most suitable & the colour and style of the garments they want to be seen in 38


INSIDE HER BAG

What I found when I looked in their sports bag, is a very minimal colour pallet for the garments which they wear, they are not their to draw attention to them selves they are their for them. They choose to wear durable and comfortable fabrics, which are easy to move in and lets you sweat. 39


IN STORS THE KOOPLES £150

NIKE £115 HACKETT £94

SOUR ADIDAS £75

TOPSHOP RIB CROP TOP £22

ZARA £69

TOPSHOP ADIDAS SPORTS JACKET £70 40


NIKE GRASS TRAINERS £140

THE KOOPLES £185

RIVER ISLAND £15

RIVER ISLAND £50

SPORTS

THE KOOPLES £100

ADIDAS £40

STILLS £349 ADIDAS £130

41


SPORTSWEAR FABRICS

What men really want is a good cut, interesting fabric and maybe an interesting detail in their clothes and that’s it

F o r a n y d e s i g n e r , i t i s especially hard for a sportswear designer when it comes to picking the right fabrics to use. You need to think about your client, what kind of fabric they would want, to both look good in and for the best performance. For example, if your a cyclist you don't want baggy clothing you want something that is tight to the body and doesn't as drag- Lycra The fabrics need to allow you to move in them and be durable, as well as let out heat and sweat. Spandex is the preferred material for form fitting, sportswear, such as used in wrestling, track and field, dance, gymnastics, speed skating and swimming.I t is also good for letting out heat and sweat from the body Cotton is the most diverse fabric t h e r e i s , i t h a s s o m a n y properties, it is cool, doesn't crease, it is washable, and heatable. It is mostly seen in sporting polo tops- Ralph Lauren

Velour is a plush cotton with a thick nap, making it soft to touch unlike velvet this knit is highly stretchy and is typically used in casual wear, and athletic wear. Cotton poplin is a medium to heavy weight fabric most frequently made of cotton or cotton/polyester blend. This sturdy fabric with noticeable ridges is uses in sportswear for men and women, particularly for shirting. Chambray id s light weight fabric combining a colored yarn with an undyed yarn in a plain weave to created a denim look. Used in casual sportswear Airtex mesh is a mesh fabric which has lots of small holes in the fabric which is very light weight and allows the body to breath, Mostly seen in baseball tops or ice-hockey wear Lycra is a fabric that is mixed with elastic, making the fabric mold to the body and making it easy to move (durable) Mostly seen in running and cycling wear 42


CHOSEN FABRICS

43


As I am designing a sports collection for my FMP, the fabrics which most people would want to wear are fabrics which are durable and flexible to move in. Elastic is the perfect fabric to use for a sports collection, but before I cut out my pattern pieces for the garments I am going to create, I wanted to find which way has more give. As you can see the in the 2nd image of the fabric being stretched it has the most give and the stripes on the fabric have been pulled thin rather then wider in the 3rd image Another way to see if fabrics have elastain in is to burn them, As you can see below the green leather which I burn has no elastic in and is very robust, therefor fabric like this is is not very suitable to wear but colour be used for bags or knee or shoulder pads on clothing. You can clearly see that the felted fabric and the striped fabric has elastic in, because after you turn it you get these thick blobs of plastic.

44


A plain seam is the most dynamic seam there is and can be used on pretty much every kind of fabric. Depending on how good your machine is and the weight of the cotton reel your using the stronger the seam shall be. For the fabrics which I have chosen they can all be used with a plain seam But to be more exact on the specialist seam you should use you need to identify the right kind of seam to use. As I don’t have any light weight fabrics I don’t need to use a french seam as none of my fabrics frey (mostly used in linings) As my collection in a sports collection and in a real situation the garments would be warn doing exercise and would need to be washed regularly, the best type of seam to with stand washing as a felled seam, which is mostly found in shirts and childens clothes which get dirty quickly For the heavy weight fabrics which I have chosen (leathers/ pleathers) there are many kind of seam types I could use a lapped seam which is commonly found in denim jeans, as it is robust and very hard to pull apart

45


PATTERNS

If you look at the American culture of brand identity in America, and especially in the flag, a lot of them will have stars in them. Personally I see the USA as being a country of extreme sports, and a lot of people look up to them, as an athlete like a you might call someone a star. A star is something brilliant and can be represented when you have achieved something great. Before I have got to this stage of designing my pattern print I had already came up with a colour scheme of green, black and white. Therefore I wanted to use the colour green as my ascent colour which would flow thought the garments which I create. Below is a rough print idea which I could use in my garments, just taking the basic star and making key shapes from the points which meet.

46


SUBLIMATION PRINTING Sublimation printing is the process of transferring a print on paper on to fabric using heat. The process works by printing on to transfer paper using a particular kind of printer with the right kind of ink. Heating the press, up to a temperature of 205C, (health and safety) to not leave it on or touch the plates or could get severely burnt) Once the plates are clampted together with the press leave for between 40-60 seconds. Remove it from the press and you should be left with a print. Whilst testing on the machine, I have found you can’t print white print on to black fabric as it wont work, nor should you put leather or pvc under it as it will burn. As an example of how I could use it to transfer my print, I have printed a line of stars which could be used on my garments. Tip I found- if you cant find the right colour fabric, print on to white fabric then cut out what you want from it. Look how the first row of stars is straight from the printer, and once it has been put under the press the paper gets a bit burnt and the ink is absorbed from the paper on to the fabric

Just recently I went in to Topshop/ Topman on Oxfrod street London, and in store they have launched sublimation printing, for any customer to do. Within the store there is several computers which are set up for you to go on to google, find images and have them printed right in front of you. Personally I think this is such an amazing idea for who ever thought it up for TopShop, it not only is personal to you, but its been talked about if your design is something spectacular you could be in for it to be commissioned. Prices for them are quite costly at ÂŁ28 for a T-shirt. But they can afford to have it as this price just because its London and tourists which come all the way would also find it amazing and want something they can remember their trip to London by. Check it out on their website-http:// www.topman.com/webapp/wcs/stores/ servlet/

47


FLAT WORKING DRAWING

48


GREEN SPORTSWEAR LINE

49


FLAT WORKING DRAWING

50


BLUE SPORTS COLLECTION

51


52


53


34� Roughly size 12/M

Piped edges and lime green cuffs- following though with my colour way

Black pvc- with no fastening. To relate to the New York fashion week, their colour pallet is very minimal with only a few base colours where-as recently London fashion week is full of vibrant viviid colour on the catwalk which we have just seen (Chanel, Prada) 54


As you can see from my original flat working drawing and illustration the sports jacket that I have created is a bit different from the designs. As we all know, when you come to making any garment the hem is the last thing to turn up. Firstly I produced the jacket at the full length id designed it to be, but I felt it didn’t feel right, therefore I cut off the bottom of the jacket to make it a normal length. I also chose not to put shoulder pads on the the garment. The jacket has no darts, therefore it can be worn by both sexes. As my key colour I have followed though with my collection I have put lime green cuffs on the end of the sleeves with my trademark star on the back of the garment On every edge of the garment I have overlocked the edges and lined the sleeves and back of the jacket. As this jacket is designed for sports and needs to be moveable in, the arms are made from a quilted fabric which is light weight and keeps the body warm. The bulky zip allows easy accesses for the e.g. athlete to put and take the jacket off quick and easy. 55


Prier to making these and to decided on what i was going to produce and the fabrics which I might have chosen. I made a pair of fitted size 10 calico shorts- Evidenced in my folder of work. After going Birmingham market and having my fabrics, I thought it would be interesting to produce a pair of shorts out of this pvc fabric. What I really liked about this fabric is the fact is doesn't fray, similar to leather, but it is thinner than leather and is a lot easier on the sewing machine. On my toile I hadn’t actually though of how the zip would be, as it would have been a waist of a zip of a mock garment. After putting one in the shorts and finding the zip didn’t really go as it was the wrong colour and exposed I put a flap over the top, similar to a pair of jeans. I also hadn’t looked at the finishing of the waist band on the toile. Previously I had been to Gloucster recourse centre where they had loads of recycled seat-belts, which I had got one time, with no initial inattention of using as a waist band. But it actually worked really well. The only problem I did find was I had to use the iron to press the pvc and the seat belt flat. However if the iron is to hot it will melt the pvc, therefore I had to be very careful not to put the iron directly on to it.

56


To keep the trousers on I had to use a piece of cord to put round as a way of tightening the trousers up. Now from using an old fake Chanel bag, I took the loop wholes off to accessorize them, to give them a bit of class. I also tuned up the ankles so they wont be dragging in the dirt if they were used for an actual sport.

From my own personal experience if you’ve just done a run in the winter and your stood outside, you usually slip on a pair of shorts over some trousers or vise versa to keep worm. Therefore I created a pair of striped baggy joggers using the legging block. At first I made a toile which is referenced in my folder, to get the right fit. Whilst making the toile I knew I wanted them to be baggy but also wanted them to come in tight at the ankle. Therefore I had to adapt my pattern piece, but what I found on my first toile the ankle was to tight no ones foot would fit though it. After finding the right fit I cut it out in the striped fabric. Now from looking at the best way the fabric stretches I found if I have the stipe running down it is less baggy than going across, which is what I wanted.

57


Taking inspiration from the American basses ball shirt, “sik silk� is a well know b r a n d . T h e y p r o d u c e t h e s e striped shirts with their logo and player number which you can have designed for yourself, with your favorite players number on. Above is a flat working drawing I designed of my interpretation. As my key logo which follows though with the garments that i have produced I put the green star on instead of a number. I also changed the neck line, which would also appeal to the female market. To make up a full outfit I also designed some matching shorts. As I wanted the shorts to be fitted I have to change the direction of the stripe, whereas the shirt is baggy 58


59


When I came to making the shirt with the black and white striped fabric I chose I found that the fabric was not very heavy and is also quite see-though. Therefore when I came to make it cut each piece out in the striped fabric and ironed fusible on to the fabric to straighten it, and over locked the edges. I understand if this was in the industry I would have the right material and would’t need to do this. If a man chooses to wear this top they might be drawn to the turned up sleeves witch attracts men as a statement piece to their arm muscles. To do up the top I chose to use poppers, but after putting the poppers on I though I would have preferred to use a hidden zip or another type of fastening that you 60 can’t see from the outside


When making fitted legging shorts or trousers, you don't need any darts for male or female, they also don't have side seams like trousers/jeans do. The only seams are at the front and back. Therefore when I came to making I wanted the stripes on the fabric to match up exactly at the same point. (This was done at the start when I was laying the fabric to be cut, (see above- it worked) As they are part of a sports collection I wanted them to be durable, I added an elasticated waist band of a 30�waist. Both seams, hems and waist band have all been over locked- strongest way of a seam which wont rip. Using the heat press I produced a line of green starts on the front of the shorts.(If this were a collection in store and someone just brought the shorts it would be 61 noticeable that it was my brand that had created them- brand identity)


62


Whilst making the baseball top, and came to sleeves I had planned on having enough fabric for both with the stripes going in both the same direction. However, I found when I was doing the second sleeve I didn't have enough fabric, and the stripe would be going in the opposite direction. Therefore I had to compromise and match the fabric so one stripe would go horizontal the other diagonal. As seen below.

As the finishing on the garment I put binding around the neck line. However when I stitched it on starting at the front when it matched back up at the front it didn’t quite look right (bit messy) therefore I chose to appliquÊ a triangle shape over the top. Common on sweaters. If I were to do this again I would make sure I put the binding in starting at a shoulder seam so either end would be hidden in the seam allowance. All the seams have been over-locked, though-out the garment construction, which I had learnt from previous units. The top is not lined though, other wise it would be to worm to wear and not suitable to the purpose.

63


A

B

Making a gym bag- Overall to make this bag it took only took a day which I was pretty pleased with. As I had never made one before and C I didn't have a pattern to follow from I had to make all the measurements up. But it turned out a lot easier than I thought. First off I drew up the size I wanted the ends to be. In the picture above, using the labels, I found what is was from a to b = 11cm then b to c = 30cm. This then shows you how wide the base and the zip must be on the top. It also finds out how far it is round each side. After this you then need to find out how long you want the bag, which gives you the final measurements to make the pattern pieces- referenced in my folder. Whilst making this bag the only problem I found was having to stitch the handless together due to 2 lays of leather and at some points it having to be bent in half. If I were to do this again I would make sure I used a machine which would cope better with the fabric, as I snapped a few needles. Needle type- 90 As this was one of the last pieces to my collection I found I had run out of zips, therefore I chose to take a zip out of an old bag which was very worn and not worth keeping.

64


65


Felted fabric- -Can be folded and shoved in a locker -Drys quick -not waterproof though

Leather-Waterproof -Quite hard to work with -Unique

This last fabric is not actually from a role. I brought an old fake Chanel bag from a charity shop for a few £... I thought it was very interesting and could see potential with it. I then took it to pieces being left with to rectangular sides.

66

As a sports collection I am creating. For athletes they don’t want to draw to much attention to them selves with the clothes which there wear. I h a v e d e s i g n e d a r a n g e o f differnt rucksacks which is not just a sports one but also a fashion rucksack which fits the purpose for sport. Before making the bags, I found I actually didn’t have a pattern blocks for a ruck-sack and I could’t find any online either. There-fore using a ruck sack of my own I took measurements as an indication on how big one should be roughly. Measurements included- the base which you can find the width and length of the sides of the other edges of the ruck sack and also how tall it should be. Before I made my choice of what bag I should make I had to find I had enough of the right fabric for the right design, as at this point in making I’m running low on some fabrics.- Therefore had to find the measurements.


Back x2- lining

Front side x2 two opposite sides

Zip sides

Side panel

Base

Middle panel

Base- 34cm x 15cm Side- 30cm x 15cm Back- (Perimeter) 147cm Zip sides- 53cm x 7.5 Middle panel- (perimeter) 50cm Front side panel- (Perimeter) 50cm Zip- 52cm 1.5cm seam allowance

67


68


critique: The over all outcome of the bag that I have made I am pretty happy with. A few things that I could have been better: -if the zip were longer, also matched the colour way of the bag -When joining the front panels with the front panel of the zip I could have put more notches on the seam allowance to allow the fabric to bend on the curve. As you can see it is slightly squashed and doesn’t lye flat Maybe could have made it slightly smaller Time management: From start to finsih of designing the bag, drawing a flat working drawing, putting the pattern pieces and constructing the bag, it took me roughly about 7 hours to make, which for a days work I was pretty happy with as I had never made one before.

69


PHOTO SHOOT

For our locational photoshoot of our collections we based the photoshoot in “The regal” in Evesham, an classic old cinema and theory house, (Shown on the back cover). Above are some pictures of the venue inside. As you can see it is extremely dark. Prier to getting there we thought you’d be able to turn the light voltage up and down, however this turned out not possible. Therefore we had to light using softbox lights. On the next page are some of the final images from the photoshoot from others in my class. Above are my 3 final outfit looks, which I have chosen fit together best for each outfit and shall be worn by the models on the photoshoot and catwalk

70


71


72


73


74


Whist the others from my class were having their photos shot I had the chance to look around the theater to see where my photo-shoot would best suit as in my mind the theater seats aren't the right place. I chose to do it on the landing where an old projector was. On the back wall were also clock hooks, which I thought would be a good reflection of a sports changing room. Also as my colour way is green, black and whit, thee titles on the floor had a green pattern which was just the right thing to go with my collection. Along Al I came up with the pose for Olivia and Mareta. I came up with them both looking very authoritative. I chose them to both wear heels to make a sports look like glamourous with a twist with sports wear. Over 75 all I am so happy with the outcome of the final image I came out with, and can’t on-behalf of myself think of anything to change


CATWALK

Though-out making our collection at the same time, as a class we had group dicustions on how the cat walk should be. We discussed possible venue’s, and went to have a look at- “The Wilson” (Cheltenham), “Vodka Revs” (Cheltenham) and Gloucster college. As a final agreement with the college we decided it would be best to hold the catwalk in college as the fabrics for our collections were funded by the college, therefore we should promote the college as well. As a small class which we are, over-all we have all had very similar ideas, and none of us have arguments over what it should be. We’ve all found different things which are all working on- e.g. Olivia- sorting out the models. Below is the invite which was designed and confirmed by the college for the catwalk. As a class discussion we gathered our thoughts together on what the name for the cat walk should be called/themed around. Using the brief title e.g.- London to NewYork, we decided to make it look like a boarding pass. It has been designed using the common layout which you would expect any boarding pass to look like. It includes the college logo- as if its an airlinet. Time of the show-(gates open)

76


As a class we have come up with a mood board for the make up artist and the hair which we want for the show. We have decided to have very pale, nude make up (Nude lipstick) and a beehive which is suitable for both short and long hair. We had the idea of having a high slick pony tail but we then realized some of the models don't have long hair and it would’t work. We have also advised all the models to bring their own foundation, as the ones which we have available might not suit their skin tone and we’d rather the models feel comfortable in their own make-up than ours (colleges). By using nude makeup it goes with all of our collections rather than using red lipstick which might go with 1 or 2 peoples collections in the class but not the rest and would likely go on the garments 77


78


“The most beautiful makeup of a woman is passion. But cosmetics are easier to buy.� Yves Saint-Laurent

79


Previous to having the staging set up, we all as a class chose the shape which the catwalk should go to fit in to the venue. We came up with a T shaped catwalk, where the models can walk up, pose for the photographers and then come back and hold it and wait for the others pieces to come down so you see the whole collection. As seen below for Oliva’s collection.

80


Over all, on the day I would have to say my main job was to sort out the displays for the catwalk. This included spray mounting our work from the FMP and mix and match work on to foam bored, arranging the images in to a suitable order, and postioning the display boards in a way that everyone would’t miss them on their way to their seats. I also included a year 1’s photography work which they took of our mix and match for their own portfolio, but linked in with our own work.

81


82


A long with every seat at our catwalk was a paper goodie bag, printed with the “check in”ticket, and sealed with a purple ribbon to go with our colour way for the catwalk. Within the bag was a handful of postcard sized images from our photo-shoot. These were for every one to have a look though prier to seeing the collections or take them home as memories of what we had to showcase. Along side complimentary bag was also a free drink of either orange juice or wine, which was brought out of our college budget, when you received though to the catwalk area. Why? We felt we didn't want it to be in the day time with other college pupils around, turning up without a ticket and also so our family and friends would be able to make it after work. We wanted to make the catwalk a bit more glamorous than a day time event as well Costing: Over all for the catwalk, very kindly GlosCol provided us with an budget for us to put the catwalk on of £300. This went towards, our fabrics, food for the models, the wine, hair equipment e.g. hairspray. Which left us by the end with money left over.

83


84


As well as having our FMP for our cat walk, as a class we decided it would be good to include our mix and match work in as a preview, showing what we had created in the first part of the 2nd year. As well as this we selected some of the first years work which we thought was appropriate to our catwalk. It also bulked out the 85 catwalk in time, so the catwalk would’t be over in 10 minutes.


FINAL COLLECTION 86


Over all I was so so happy with how the catwalk turned out and how much work went in to it. I was adamant it would work. I think the best thing I took from last years catwalk was to not have individual songs, but a gene’ of music which ran though-out all our garments. The only thing I was a little disappointed in was that the middle outfit (black one) the model forgot to put on the black pvc shorts. Therefore it should have been my responsibly to make sure all 3 outfits were all there. 87


William Sproule Final major project 88


FMP project