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Avon Gorge

Avon Gorge Intro Characteristics

ROCKTYPE:..............Limestone MAX HEIGHT:..............120m ASPECT:................W TRAD:..................YES SPORT:.................YES SINGLE PITCH:..........YES MULTI PITCH:...........YES BOULDERING:............YES

Intro With easy access from the centre of Bistol and from the M4 or M5 coupled with extensive climbing and a sunny disposition this has long been one of the most frequented crags in the south. In its heyday some twenty years ago, Avon was the hub of the Bristol scene. Nowadays, however, it has become something of a backwater due to a series of events including a two year closure of the main wall for a major construction project followed by a two year occupation by gipsies ,the opening of Under Cover Rock and more recently, the opening up of Cheddar as a year round venue. Avon has also suffered from a reputation for choss, polish and ancient pegs -not always without justification. Despite all this Avon still has a lot of excellent climbing (as well as some less excellent stuff) and is the home of a number of South West classics. The crag is big, sporting numerous two and three pitch routes. Most of the rock is quarried and the over-riding ethic over the years has been trad although the numerous old pieces of in situ gear as well as the more recent retro bolting of many routes does reflect a healthy disregard for purism! Climbing is permitted throughout the year on most of the crags along the east bank of the river by the A4. The only exceptions being where the cliff rises directly from the roadside (ie Battleship Buttress now covered in netting anyway) and the right hand end of Main Wall where nesting restictions apply in spring and early summer. Details of these can be found at the main wall car park. The crags on the west side are out of bounds.

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Avon Gorge (Sector: unspecified)

Avon Gorge Sketch Map

1. Wintersol 2. Unknown Wall 3. Exploding Galaxy Wall 4. Unknown Buttress 5. Puke Area 6. Main Face 7. Last Slip Area 8. Simian Area 9. Jasper Area 10. New Quarry Left 11. New Quarry Middle 12. Main Wall Left 13. Main Wall central Area 14. Main Wall Right 15. Morning Slab Left 16. Morning Slab Right 17. Cental Buttress 18. The Amphitheatre 19. Suspension Bridge 20. Suspension Bridge Buttress

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Suspension Bridge)

Suspension Bridge

No intro available

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Suspension Bridge)

Suspension Bridge Buttress

1:Suspension Bridge Arete

6:Whatsitcalled

HVS

E2 Climb easily up to the big ledge system and clip an old peg before embarking on the the crux moves through the bulge. A small wire (rock 1) can be placed with difficulty. Continue delicately up passing another peg.

The easiest climb on the crag. 1. 4C Last update: normal12b on Sep 26 18:28 2008

1. 5C: An exiting little number! Start below the Limbo groove. Climb easily up to some good gear on the ledge. Now move up to below the overhangs and clip a crap peg. Climb strenuously past this (small wire if you can hang on long enough to find and place it) and continue for ten feet to a welcome peg and rest. Continue more easily to the top. Last update: normal12b on Jul 17 15:41 2008

2:Suspense

E1(UK Trad) Enjoyable steep climbing with bomber gear on the crux. Soft touch for E1 1. 5b: From a few feet right of the arete, climb the easy bottom section to the grassy break & ledges. Move uo and left to good wire placements the straifgt up and over a bulging line of pockets to stand in the niche above. Go carefully up left to a cave thingy & good gear. Coninue via the easiest way to the pedastal. Last update: normal12b on Sep 26 18:28 2008

7:GT Special

E4

Goey! 1. 6a: Climb easily to the big ledge left of the limbo groove. Arrange some small wires and climb urgently up the bulging wall above (at first on thin finger pockets then easing as you pass the gear ) to stand in balance by a poor peg (and bit of ancient blue tat?) . Easier moves lead to a thin crack in a short wall. Climb this on good wires and continue to a belay on the next ledge. Traverse to the pedastal at the top of suspense to descend. Last update: Captain Waterproof on Apr 25 15:35 2008

3:Baby Duck

E1 Saunter up to the prominent 1/3 height break, get some good gear in and swagger joyously up the groove to a rest by a big hole. Continue more easily to the pedestal. 1. 5B: The meat of this excellent pitch is the line of pockets to the right of suspense. Last update: normal12b on Sep 26 18:29 2008

8:Nemo me impune Lacessit

E4 A very eliminate and escapable problem taking the steepest part of the black wall between Earl of Perth and oblivion. Strenuous pocket pulling followed by a boldish wall above(if you stick dogmatically to the line).

4:Beginnings

E2 Taking an interesting line up the best bit of limestone on the crag. The lower down you get on the route the harder it is. Excellent climbing. 1. 5C Last update: dirk gently on Aug 20 08:15 2008

1. 6A Last update: Anon

5:Limbo Bit of a scramble up to the line of pockets. Really nice climbing from then on with plenty of gear and large holds just when you need them. As you're stretching for a hold you may have to put your face into one or two of the pockets. Ensure you take a deep breath and get a whiff of fresh parsely. If the belay is busy you can bare right and finish at Oblivion. 1. 5B Last update: northcave on Sep 03 21:33 2009

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Suspension Bridge)

9:Earl of Perth

E1 length:50m Really nice climb and not difficult for an E1. The bold move right out of the black area is protected very well and large holds make for a easy but exposed climb. You can do it easily in one pitch but to abseil back down you need to get to the end of Route (10) which is further left. The traverse is nice but you'd probably want the lesser rope drag by making it two pitches. Top climb. 1. 25m 5B: 25Reach the big ledge fairly easily and climb steeply up the big black pod on monster pockets (in situ threads). Exit boldly right below the narrowing of the groove and climb more easily to belay on a cluster of pegs at the next break 2. 25m 5A: Move up the crack for about 12m and then either continue up or if vegitated then a nice traverse directly accross to the large plate abseil point. Last update: northcave on Sep 11 17:02 2009

10:Oblivion

E2 Bold and strenuous climbing - fair lob potential off the strenny section of the first pitch but with good gear at the start of the difficulties as the last line of defence. Many parties ab off from the first belay but pitch 2 is well worth the effort 1. 5C: Climb easily up to the right hand end of the big ledge system below the bulging wall and step up to a line of overhaging pockets. Place bomber wires and climb. Further good wires can be placed if strength permits. Reach easier ground and step up to belay at the obvious break - pegs and wires. 2. 5B: Traverse left to one of the few jaming cracks in the gorge. Go up and continue to a belay somewhere below the bridge - sorr memory a bit sketchy! Last update: Normal12b on Aug 14 21:03 2009

11:How Hard

E1(UK Trad) Pleasant climbing. Most of the crap pegs can easily be backed up with good wires. A couple of bold moves if you stay in the crack at the first small overhang or move right for a very slightly easier line. To descend , either ab off a bundle of old tat tied round a thorn bush - or if this makes you nervous, traverse left along the obvious break (4c Last pitch of Hell Gates) to reach the fat belay at the top of Suspension Bridge Buttress. Last update: northcave on Sep 03 21:24 2009

12:Hell Gates

HVS Very fine climbing on good gear. Watch out for nesting birds in the cave. 1. 5A, 2. 5A, 3. 4b Last update: Normal12b on Aug 14 20:55 2009

13:Hell Gates - undirect version

HVS(UK Trad) Excellent out there feeling climbing with a tricky move as you start to move left to traverst to the cave. Last update: Normal12b on Aug 14 21:08 2009

14:Hell Gates Alternate Start

(UK Trad) An alternative start to Hell Gates - a slightly crumbly feeling crystaline layback flake 1. 5a Last update: Normal12b on Aug 14 21:05 2009

15:Another roadside attraction

E2(UK Trad) From the traverse of Hell Gates step left and from the peg runner move up with a tricky move continue up- interesting climbing Last update: Normal12b on Aug 14 21:08 2009

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Suspension Bridge)

Suspension Bridge

1: Last update: Anon

2:Suspense

HVS 1. 5A Last update: Anon

3:Limbo

E1 1. 5B Last update: Anon

4:Earl of Perth

E1

1. 5B, 2. 5A Last update: Anon

5:How Hard

E1 1. 40m 5B Last update: Anon

6:Hell Gates

HVS

Solid HVS! 1. 5A, 2. 5A Last update: Captain Waterproof on Apr 25 16:09 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Ampitheatre)

Ampitheatre

No intro available

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Ampitheatre)

The Amphitheatre

1:Liverbird Buttress

S(UK Trad) length:50m Last update: tom on Jul 07 18:50 2008

2:Stranded

S(UK Trad) length:36m Last update: tom on Jul 07 18:50 2008

3:Giant's Cave Buttress

VS(UK Trad) length:77m 1. 4c, 2. ?, 3. 4c Last update: normal12b on Sep 26 18:27 2008

4:Arete de la Degeneration

E3(UK Trad) length:25m

1. 6a Last update: tom on Jul 07 18:52 2008

5:Two Ton of Fun

E4(UK Trad) length:25m 1. 6b Last update: tom on Jul 07 18:53 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Area)

Main Area Intro Characteristics

MAX HEIGHT:..............100m QUARRIED:..............YES TRAD:..................YES SINGLE PITCH:..........YES MULTI PITCH:...........YES

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Area)

Morning Slab Left

1:Dawn Walk

3:Reveille

S 1. 4B, 2. 4A Last update: NORMAL12B

VS An adventurous climb that is both more techical and more serious than the CC guidebook suggests. 1. 5C: Climb without much difficulty to the prominent orange block below the first break. Surmount ths to the left and move up into a nich and old peg runner. Back it up with a few RPs then climb delicately to the second overlap. A good peg can be backed up with wires bfore tackling the crux to reach the slab. Continue airily to reach the Dawn Walk traverse. Last update: normal12b on Mar 26 23:46 2008

2:The Corner

VS(UK Trad) A bold route with typical Avon style. The route starts up dawn walk traditionally although another (grotty) access pitch is available and finishes at the lunchtime ledges, where it can be usefully linked with Aftermath or Petros to give a fine VS outing Last update: mikekann on Aug 07 23:56 2008

4:Rude Awakening 1. 5b Last update: Anon

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E2


Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Area)

5:Bobs climb

VDiff(UK Trad) Climb from the lunch time ledges into the bay of Aftermath. Here take an obvious line of weakness to ones right, not without interest or steepness. Last update: mikekann on Aug 08 00:06 2008

6:Aftermath

VS(UK Trad) length:25m Starting from the Lunchtime ledge, climb up left until an open bay is reached with a bore hole and miners spike in it. Climb the bole hole and then exit awkwardly. Enjoyable. 1. 4c Last update: mikekann on Aug 08 00:04 2008

7:Mike's Mistake

E1 Excellent climbing with spaced protection

1. 50m 5b Last update: Anon

8:Petros

VS Start by a tree in front of a large roof 1. 26m 4C: Climb the tree until it is possible to step out onto the slab above the overhang. Go up the slab to reach an obvious flake system that rises diagonally rightwards. Climb this to its highest point from where a tricky move up and left leads to easier ground. Take the path of least resistance to the top. Last update: Anon

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Area)

Morning Slab Right

1:Dawn Walk

S 1. 28m 4a, 2. 20m 4a Last update: Anon

8:Mediator

2:Mike's Mistake

9:Dexter

E1(UK Trad) 1. 5b Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:27 2008

E1(UK Trad) Delectable climbing with spaced gear.

VS(UK Trad) 1. 20m ?, 2. 20m 4b Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:27 2008

1. 5b Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:27 2008

10:Central Arete

(UK Trad) Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:27 2008

3:Morty's Error

E2(UK Trad) Slightly bolder than it sounds in the climbers club guide. 1. 50m ?: Climb op to the orange block and up left to stand on it. Move up into a scoop and clip an old peg. Thin climbing now leads through a bit of a bulge and up to the seond band of overhangs. A reassuring peg can be backed up if so deseired before making the crux moves . Climb the up the salbs to join Dawn Walk. Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:26 2008

4:Mark'sMorality

E2(UK Trad) 1. 51m 5b Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:26 2008

5:Last Trump

E2(UK Trad) 1. 50m 5c Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:26 2008

6:Clarion

VS(UK Trad) 1. 4c Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:26 2008

7:Sinister

VS(UK Trad) 1. 20m 4a, 2. 10m 4b, 3. 20m 4a Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:25 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Area)

Cental Buttress

1:Central Slab

4:The easy route

HVS(UK Trad) length:60m Only around since the last guidebook, this line is worth seeking out nd takes a direct and interesting line at first at a very reasonable level, and then in a more exposed and exciting position on a thin balancy slab on the head wall

Mod(UK Trad) Can be used as a down climb although since the trees have gone so has the false sense of security Last update: mikekann on Aug 08 00:11 2008

1. 4c, 2. 5a Last update: mikekann on Aug 07 23:51 2008

5:Piton Route

VS Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 06 17:28 2008

2:Central Rib

VS(UK Trad) length:60m 3 great pitches on a slightly wandering but fantastic line.The third pitch is one of the best of its grade in the gorge

6:Cental Buttress

E1 The first pitch sports a major runout but the climbing is not too demanding. Keep a cool head and pad up to the belay.

1. 4c, 2. 4c, 3. 4c Last update: mikekann on Aug 07 23:48 2008

1. 5a, 2. 4c Last update: normal12b on May 12 16:20 2008

3:Great Central Route

HVS 1. 5a, 2. 4c Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 06 19:10 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Wall)

Main Wall Intro A large steep quarried face with many two and three pitch routes and an adventurous feel. Old in situ equipment abounds. Although this more than anywhere else may be the part of the gorge that gives it its reputation for seriousness there are some excellent climbs on perfectly adequate gear. The left hand side contains some excellent single pitch offerings approached by scrambling

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Wall)

Main Wall Left

1:Dire Staits

9:The Writing On The wall

E3 The first part of this pitch is scary and often avoided by doing the start of Last Gasp. Above the break, a couple of thin moves on the wall lead to the safety of a niche and good gear.

E3

1. 4C, 2. 5C, 3. 5A Last update: on Feb 12 08:33 2008

1. 6A Last update: normal12b

10:Bonbogies

HVS

Last update: Anon

2:Last Gasp

E2 A fun pitch with an exhilerating finish!

11:Malambo

1. 5C Last update: normal12b

12:Bogey Man

E2 5c Slightly runout climbing on the lower wall leads to an entertaining crux surmounting the roof. Continue up the slab to a short finishing wall

3:The Corpse

HVS The easiet route up main wall - be careful with loose flakes on pith 2 1. 4C, 2. 4C Last update: normal12b

4:Zombogies Direct

1. 5C Last update: Normal12b on Mar 17 22:41 2009

E1

13:The Old Pretenders

Last update: Anon

5:The Poacher

E2

1. 5B Last update: Anon

E2

1. 5B Last update: Anon E3

Last update: Anon

14:Troillus Left Hand

E3 Climb eaily up to the roof as for the Old Pretenders, move left and over the roof to climb a groove to a ledge. Climb the gearless groove above without falling off!

6:Maladroit

E1 Last update: Anon

1. 5C Last update: Normal12b on Mar 17 22:44 2009

7:The Litch

HVS Delicte climbing on reasonable rock with OK gear

15:Troillus Direct

E2(UK Trad) Last update: normal12b on May 19 09:40 2008

Last update: normal12b

16:The Beard

E4(UK Trad) Last update: normal12b on May 19 09:40 2008

8:The Mal

E3 The main pitch used to have a reputation for being scary but there are a fair few pegs to follow although maybe not brand spanking new. A nice route at E3 5C.

17:Mason's Folly Last update: Anon

1. 4c: Easy peasy 2. 5c 3. 5b: A thrutch over the roof provides the meat of this pitch Last update: NORMAL12B on Sep 17 12:37 2007

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E4


Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Wall)

Main Wall central Area

1:Krapps Last Tape

6:The Preter

5b A route with a reputation for seriousness which might only be fairly well deserved provided you are unlikely to fall off 5a and that you dont provoke the menacingly loose flakes to the right on the upper part of the pitch. The line is complex. The hardest move is climbing down from a good wire

E2(UK Trad) An adventure into the heart of main wall! Gentle padding never strenuous but quite runout although the gear is quite adequate where it is most needed. Start at the ash tree as for Malbogies. On pitch 2 the second can be perfectly protected on the traverse by keeping one rope free of runners until high up the groove after the traverse.

The first 20 feet or so are gearless but not too hard. Then you get a good wire before moving right.

1. 5a: More or less straight above the ash tree, slabs lead up to a wide gap between two overhangs in the leftward rising break. Climb up into a prominent groove above the gap with a bush at the top and an in situ thread in a big hole. Pass the hole on the left to join Malbogies. Continue to the peg belay. 2. 5b: Climb back down Malbogies a few meters to a sapling, then traverse left around a rib on promising looking holds into a niche. A couple of reasonable small wires can be placed (no sign of the peg mentioned in CC guide). Reach up left to good flat hold and make a committing move into a niche then traverse to the foot of a groove and climb about 30ft past a couple of pegs to the break below the big roofs. Traverse left past an obvious groove breaching the roofs and belay on nuts and friends. 3. 5b: Climb delicately onto slabs above the breach and into the orner above. At the next roof go right and finish rightwards on easy ground taking care with some dubiou rock. Last update: Normal12b on Jul 14 10:35 2009

Last update: on Feb 27 09:25 2008

2:Think Pink

E3(UK Trad) Starts at a ledges at the foot of the large blank pink wall. Approach va one of the adjacent routes. Many parties skip the second pitch by escaping up the obvious easy way to the top or abbing off. 1. 6a: Climb a technical bolted wall to a ledge then climb t a groove and flake crack to a belay on a big bushy ledge 2. 5c: Goes up the wall left of the belay. Last update: Normal12b on Jul 03 07:50 2009

7:Malbogies

HVS(UK Trad) A historic route and one of the easiest nd most popular on Main Wall. Scramble up to start at a long ledge. An ash tree provides as convenient belay as any.

3:Main Wall Eliminate

E4(UK Trad) Sustained climbing through slightly hollow sounding overlaps leads to a rest before tackling the crux groove in the headwall on good bolts.

1. 27m 5a: Stroll over to the left of the ledge and climb leftwards up to a grooved rib and follow this with little protection to a break in the thin band of overlaps (pegs) leading to a white scoop leading diagonally rightwards (peg) to a rough right trending groove leading more easily up past a tree on the right to belay on pegs just after a second smaller tree. A direct start can be climbed to reach the start of the groove via a peg in the overlaps - polished E1.

Last update: Anon

4:Central Wall

6a Strenny climbing on what would have passed for good gear before the bolting frenzy of recent years. It used to get E3. The top groove is the shared crux with its neigbour Main Wall Eliminate.

2. 35m 4c: Continue up the groove to the overhang and pull over on a surprising jug. Teeter right a bit then up to some more roofs which are passed to the left before climbing to a tree on a ledge. Go left from here and follow the groove to the top taking care with loose rock. Last update: Normal12b on Jun 16 16:54 2009

No nonesense names these routes! Last update: Anon

5:Atmospheres

E5(UK Trad) A scarier companion to the two routes to the right completes this fine trilogy. Look out for hidden wire when things are getting fraught! Last update: Normal12b on Jul 14 10:52 2009

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Wall)

8:Malicious

E2(UK Trad) A rather good route - sometimes a bit bold but steady and mostly on excellent rock. Scamble up to an ash tree on a ledge as for Malbogies. 1. 5b: From the tree go up and right to a grassy ledge then boldly up to a prominent pocket (in situ thread). Step left (taking care of some loose rock)and climb to a projecting block with a crack on it's left (small friend) Get onto the block, below a narrow roof . Find Peg on left and solid friend 2.5 in a borehole above the roof. Reach left for layaways, pull over the roof and teeter up to a junction with Malbogies. Continue up the Mlbogies groove to the peg belay. 2. 5b: Step down left to enter a wide corner with a pink crytallline patch. Climb boldly to the roof and pull through the obvious weakness. Climb the white corner above stepping left near the top to pass a large iolated overhang on the left, Continue up the groove above to the next line of overhangs and bear left to find the easiest way to the top. Last update: Normal12b on Jul 03 07:11 2009

9:Depravity

E1(UK Trad) length:30m An attractive looking line but poor pegs and some loose holds. Climb the corner crack, exit left then continue more easily to a belay above the overhanging band. 1. 5b: Climb the obvious crner crack exiting left at the top then wander up to an Iron spike to belay. Last update: Normal12b on Jul 02 12:03 2009

10:Steppenwolf

E3(UK Trad) An excellent pitch with a perfect blend of strenuous and delicate climbing and a great natural line. Start at the foot of the obvious black streak 1. 5c: Climb a steep crack and pull over a bulge to gain a ramp. Follow this to a bent iron stake and take the steep wall above this to gain a higher ramp. Climb to the obvious weakness in the band of overhangs above pass it with a high rock over onto a short slab below a roof. pass the roof on the right to enter a strenuous groove and climb this to exit left at the top (stake). Step down and left to a belay. Last update: Normal12b on Jul 02 12:07 2009

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Wall)

Main Wall Right

1:Depravity

E1 Last update: normal12b on Feb 07 09:41 2008

8:The Evening Light

2:Comedy of Errors

E4 A serious pitch with no gear intil the break is reached at which point a peg provides respite for the final hard moves. The grade assumes a side runner in Depravity.

9:Polar Reaches

1. 5c/6a Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 31 09:40 2008

10:Peryl

3:Steppenwolf Superb!

Although the Avon guide gives it an overall length of over 60m it is do-able in one long pitch on 50m ropes as the deviation to the stance on pitch 1 can be avoided.

1. 5c Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:31 2008

Start by climbing the first easy pitch of Dawn Walk to reach a spacious belay on a ledge with a tree (Breakfast Ledge).

4:Magic Theatre

1. 6a: From the left end of the ledge climb easily up to a peg at the top of a shallow groove and traverse left to a pathetic peg. Make a committing blind move round an arete to good holds and continue up left to a small roof where a good big nut can be placed. Pass the roof on the rifht and trend left to reach a ramp which is climed delicately (RPs useful) to a peg and resting niche up right. Now go left and traverse the diagnal line of small roofs (strenuous) and continue to bolt belay out left. 2. 5c: From the belay, go up to clip a peg and move up and right accross slabby ground past two pegs to a ledge. Go left along the break to enter the awkward hanging groove (peg) Climb past a small roof to the top. Last update: Normal12b on Jun 22 10:04 2009

E3 Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 31 09:43 2008

E6 Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:18 2008

E4(UK Trad) length:60m Great route - one of Avon's best. Not hard for E4 - it was given E3 in the past. A complex line though and a bit serious in places.

E3

E4 Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:46 2008

5:Kranz

E2 Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:48 2008

6:Dawn Walk Pitch 1

V Diff Approach for various routes like Peryl Last update: normal12b on Feb 05 20:12 2008

11:Changeling

E5 A very serious first pitch followed by a very hardsecond pitch Pitch 1 of Peryl is often the preferred entee.

7:Goth

E1 A "step" in the big roof provides a narrow hanging slab that crosses the roof. Traverse this with difficulty (in situ pegs) and pull strenuously onto the wall above to join Litch Gates.

Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:54 2008

1. 5b Last update: normal12b on Feb 05 20:08 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Wall)

12:The Litch Gates

E2(UK Trad) Tricky route findig on pitch one with a serious feel followed by a well protected crux pitch. 1. 5a, 2. 5c Last update: ruthclimb on Aug 03 18:30 2008

13:Drang

E3 Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:39 2008

14:Pink Wall Direct Three interesting pitches. 1. 5b: From the right hand side of the ledge, climb up to a prominent thin crack in a corner. Climb this to belay below a band of overhangs. 2. 5c: Traverse the overhangs (crux) then climb up and left to some (3?) large quarry spikes in the pink wall. Swagger up these to belay at a ledge. 3. 4b: Traverse leftwards to an exit groove - climb easily to the top. Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 31 09:57 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: New Quarry)

New Quarry

No intro available

Page 20


Avon Gorge (Sector: New Quarry)

New Quarry Left

1:Agua Colorado

E2 Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:02 2008

12:Brutal Dub

2:Bitter and Twisted

7b(Fr Sport) Last update: tom on Jun 15 11:47 2008

1. 6a Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:25 2008

3:Dinosaur Beach

13:Ready and Waiting

4:?

14:Product of an Unsound Mind

1. 5a Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:05 2008

15:Exhumation

E4 Nice varied climbing involving a crack/flake, a roof (crux) and easier gound above. Some "vintage" pegs.

f7a+ Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:29 2008

6b+(Fr Sport) Last update: tom on Jun 15 11:47 2008

E1 Follow some pegs

5:Fry Crispin Fry

Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:34 2008

E5 Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:33 2008

E3

Last update: Anon

6:Combined Tactics

E3 Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:09 2008

7:Paste 2000

f7A Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:13 2008

8:Cymbeline

F6c Extra bit of excitement provided by absent last bolt - a few years ago mind. Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:42 2008

9:The Echo

E2 Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:18 2008

10:Cymbal The Pun

E3 Technically low in the grade with a short strenny crux that involves a quick couple of pulls on slightly dubious holds. Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:21 2008

11:Full Metal Cymbal

E3 Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:26 2008

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E5


Avon Gorge (Sector: New Quarry)

New Quarry Middle

1:Bushmen Dont Surf

(UK Trad) This line has been affected by thecollapse of a tottering block. Current grade/ line anyone? Last update: normal12b on Jun 13 16:41 2008

2:System Z

XS(UK Trad)

Choss Last update: normal12b on Jun 13 16:36 2008

3:No Strange Delight

E3(UK Trad) Good climbing - not too hard. In situ gear but well spaced. Last update: normal12b on Jun 13 16:47 2008

4:Night of the Comic Dead

E2(UK Trad) Easy for the grade but with a potential ground fall before reaching the first bolt at 25 ft ish. 1. 5a Last update: normal12b on Jun 13 16:51 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Sea Walls)

Sea Walls

No intro available

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Sea Walls)

Last Slip Area

1:Arete Problem

3:Critics Coice

V4 Last update: Tom on Nov 18 21:01 2007

2:Connoiseur's Choice

E5(UK Trad) Technical wall climbing on tiny crimpy holds - a lone bolt bekons at 15 feet. The first move to a good hold on top of a spike is difficult indeed mostly due to the fact that the only good foothold is polished. From there it is hard but friction is no problem. Probably since very few are able to get past the first move. If you dare to committ all the way to the bolt they you'redoing well. I would say 20ft is more realistic. Further than you would be happy to fall on to a bouldering matt.

E2

Technical and bold! 1. 6A Last update: Normal12b on Mar 18 07:45 2009

1. 6b Last update: northcave on Sep 27 23:38 2009

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Sea Walls)

4:Ffoeg's Folly

E2(UK Trad) The scruffy looking top groove is a lot better than it looks. Excellent and varied climbing. 1. 5a, 2. 5c Last update: Normal12b on Mar 18 07:21 2009

5:Gymslip

E4 The near vertical wall is split by a thin crack and interspersed with subtle slopey friction holds - delicate and committing. 1. 6A Last update: Normal12b on Mar 18 07:26 2009

6:Ambrose

E5(UK Trad) length:9m A short and really varied route. Could be protected with a lone wire at 10ft but only after the first hard move to start. From there just don't fall. A bouldering matt might be needed. Otherwise climb Ffoegs Folly to the belay and setup a shunt / toprope. Start with 3 hard successive crimpy moves. Move up to a shelf and try to progress without using the large holds of each shelf. Doing this sustains the climb with a lovely finished. Balance, crimpy and bold. Lovely climb. 1. 9m 6b Last update: northcave on Sep 27 23:31 2009

7:Last Slip

E3(UK Trad) Excellet, delicate and bold. Climbs the eye catching clean groove right of Foeg's Folly. 1. 5b: Scramble uo a ramp at the foot of the wall and climb blindly up a kind of blunt arete to mantel onto a sandy/gravelly ledge. No Gear! Climb easily up to the belay on Foeg's Folly. 2. 5c: Climb rightwards accross slabs to clip a bolt before entering the groove. Teeter up this with no further gear until a final technical move gains the safely of a ledge and peg just below the top. Last update: Normal12b on Mar 18 07:47 2009

8:Fast Grip

E2(UK Trad) Climb easily up to a short groove and continue to a ledge below a short corner. Climb this to stand on a small platform and make an airy but easy move accroos left to stand on a slabby area below some steep flakes (PR). Climb the flakes passing 2 or three more pegs to arrive at a platform beneath an obvious detatched block. Swarm up this laybacking or jamming the crack in the corner to arrive at a ledge, climb a short wall to the big ledge and belay in wires or to the pine tree on the right. 1. 5b Last update: Captain Waterproof on Jun 27 16:26 2008

9:Nightmare

HS A very enjoyable climb! - the final moves up to the belay tend to be sandy. 1. 4B Last update: Normal12b on Mar 18 07:47 2009

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Sea Walls)

Jasper Area

1:Smooth Groove

6a

Last update: Anon

2:The Independant Route Last update: Anon

3:Floating Voter Last update: Anon

4:5b Groove

(UK Trad) Last update: Captain Waterproof on Jun 27 16:25 2008

5:5b Wall

5c? Last update: Anon

6:Jasper

HVS 5a An excellent line but unfortunately extremely polished from the ravages of endless top roping. 1. ?: Climb he corner to a big flake, layback up this to reach a resting place beneath the overhang. In situ wires can be backed up before making a couple of thin moves to stand in the groove above. Continue more easily past a ledge to reach BB on a higher ledge. Last update: Tom on Nov 18 20:58 2007

7:Jumping Carrots

VS Last update: Captain Waterproof on Sep 29 22:38 2007

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Sea Walls)

Simian Area

1:Nightmare

10:The Independant Route

4a

Last update: Anon

2:Edge Master

Last update: Anon

6b

Last update: Anon

3:One Scream's Enough

E6 1. 6c Last update: Captain Waterproof on Sep 29 22:44 2007

4:Padanzac

5c Last update: Anon

5:Partial Eclipse

(UK Trad) 1. 6b Last update: normal12b on Jun 16 14:00 2008

6:Simian

HVS 5a Takes the obvious hanging flake in the corner - enjoyable strenuous climbing Last update: Tom on Nov 18 21:02 2007

7:Dont Slip

E5 6a Last update: Tom on Nov 18 21:03 2007

8:The Aardvark and the Ferret Last update: Anon

9:SOS

E4 Polished moves above a dubious runner provide the meat of this pitch. Last update: NORMAL12B on Sep 02 23:31 2007

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Sea Walls)

Main Face

1:Indecent Exposure

4:False Alarms

E2 A varied climb with an advenurous feeling.

E3 A technical test piece of a pitch with spaced but adequate protection particularly above the big peg in the central recess.

1. 5b: The technical crux is in the first ten feet. The mental crux is higher up on the leftwards rising traverse aproaching the belay. 2. 5c: Go up leftwards to reach the ramp. A bold but easy rock over gets you stood on this. Continue up the ramp to a flake. Climb with increacing difficulty to a final hard move left to easier ground. Last update: Anon

You can start at the second stance of Puke. 1. 6a: Go easily up to the high peg on Puke and you will see a steep line of pockets just to your right. Climb these with difficulty (good wires) to reach a kind of recess where a rusty but enormous peg greets you. From here go up left with increacing difficulty following a kind of ramp thing. At the end of this a tricky move get you onto a ledge and its all over! Last update: normal12b

2:Puke

HVS A classic route of great character. Start bhind the tree. The original version of pitch 1 probably warrants E1. This takes the "scary borehole" but can be avoided by climbing the corner and steps upto the right of the tree.

5:Gronk

VS,4c(UK Trad) One of the best routes of this grade in the gorge - with completely differentstyles of crux on each pitch. The first is steep wallclimbing with a peg by your feet and some small wires to protect, that feels thin and bold.The second climbs anarrow leaning ramp and then makes an airy and difficult to protect traverse right to the belay of Morpheus. The third is extremly exposed, hand traversing a beding plane for some 25-30 metres. The last is quite scrappy, and escapes the most attractive exit, the hanging corner above the belay which can beclimbed at 5a and which provides the most in character finish, bold and airy...

1. 5a, 2. 5a, 3. 4c, 4. 4a Last update: normal12b on Jul 17 13:20 2008

3:Morpheus

V diff Quality climbing at its grade with pleasant climbing and fine positions. Last update: Anon

1. 4c, 2. 4c, 3. 4b, 4. 4a Last update: mikekann on Aug 22 11:27 2008

6:The Featherless Biped 1. 5b, 2. 6a, 3. 5b Last update: Anon

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E4


Avon Gorge (Sector: Sea Walls)

Puke Area

1:Indecent Exposure

7:Ffoegs Folly - pitch 1

E2

HVS(UK Trad) Often done in its own right this is a tremendous pitch of laybacking, jamming and desperation.

1. 5B, 2. 5B Last update: Anon

A nice route to practice solo free climbs with tonnes of gear and solid holds. Abseil from two recent bolts.

2:Puke

HVS Route indicated as in previous guide, i.e. original first pitch which is now given E1 5a and worth every penny. 3 blinding pitches, although whether its blinding climbing or you who goes blind with terror remains to be seen. Not to be missed...

1. 10m 5a Last update: northcave on Sep 27 23:17 2009

Last update: Anon

3:Morpheus

VDiff(UK Trad) A classic route with classic Avon polish. Some great climbing and a good place to start. Mainly up Grooves, corners and flakes Last update: mikekann on Aug 08 00:18 2008

4:Gronk

VS Last update: normal12b

5:The Featherless Biped

E4

1. 5b, 2. 6a, 3. 5b Last update: Anon

6:Sleepwalk

S(UK Trad) After starting Morpheus and continuing in a similar vein, the middle section comes as a surprise - delicate and a little runout! Back to corner thuggery for the final pitch (not shown here) Last update: mikekann on Aug 08 00:21 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Unknown Area)

Unknown Area

No intro available

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Unknown Area)

Wintersol

1:Wintersol

E2 length:40m 1. 5b Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 28 21:26 2008

2:Desecrator

HVS 1. 5a Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 28 21:27 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Unknown Area)

Unknown Wall

1:The Blick

E3 length:5m The first pitch is technically low in the grade but well serious and not one to hang on as it is steep. The second pitch is a pleasantly sustained and well protected layback. 1. 5a, 2. 5b Last update: Captain Waterproof on Jul 08 12:16 2008

2:Urban Gorilla

E3 A must for lovers of soft cheese. 1. 5c: Climb easily up to the obvious Roof. Gear is not abundant but some can be found including a crap peg to the left of the roof. Pull over the roof and continue easily to the base of a cheesy vegetated corner. Climb this on crumbly rock to the capping roof and some welcome pegs, A difficult move over the roof leads to a ledge and logical stance. 2. 5a: From the ledge, climb the groove above for 4m then trend rightwards towards an the break in the band of overhangs. go up here to the top. Last update: normal12b on Apr 25 23:29 2008

3:Unknown Wall

VS(UK Trad) Last update: Captain Waterproof on Jul 08 12:13 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Unknown Area)

Exploding Galaxy Wall

1:Amanitia Muscarina

3:Yellow Edge

E4 1. 5b, 2. 5c, 3. 6a Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 03 23:06 2008

E3 Clasic Avon adventure. The crux of pitch one is well protected and the finale on pitch three is quite a thrill 1. 5c, 2. 5b, 3. 5b Last update: Normal12b on Aug 25 17:24 2009

2:Captain Swing

E3(UK Trad) Alternative finish to yellow edge technically harder and more sustained but less scary. But a lot more pumpy fine if you're climbing wall fit. An intersting version can be done by climbing the first pitch of dragon followed by this pitch.

4:Dragon

E3(UK Trad) This route was in the old guide on the grip list ( you can't fall off) but it's brillliant. Fragile in places. Someone from yosemite said we call this stuff mud - maybe. But it's an enjoyable experience and the 2nd 5c pitch is as sustained 5c climing as there is in the gorge.

1. 5c Last update: Normal12b on Aug 25 17:30 2009

Last update: dirk gently on Aug 20 22:09 2008

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Unknown Area)

New Horizons

1:New Horizons

E3(UK Trad) Climbs the right side of the slab. Low in the grade 1. 5b: 2. 5b Last update: Normal12b on Oct 16 14:38 2009

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Avon Gorge (Sector: Unknown Area)

Unknown Buttress

1:Hocus Pocus

6:Ladder of Desire

E3(UK Trad) length:52m Sustained very fingery climbing on the first pitch. Start beneath an eye catching crystaline crack at about 2 or 3 m.just left of the prominent left facing corner of M1.

E3(UK Trad) A good route with a bold bit near the start and an energetic finish. Start in the middle of a 3m wall. 1. 35m 5c: A boulder problem start leads to easy climbing up to a break with pegs out left and right. Teeter up from the break to make a delicate reach for the big sandy break above, pull onto this and place bomber gear (the scary bit is now over!) before moving 2 or 3 m left to a pocketed crack leading up slightly right towards a concrete block. From the block go right to a groove that leads with increasing difficulty to the top. Last update: Sully on Sep 16 09:55 2009

1. 27m 6a: Climb the crack and step right to a rest on M1 then reach up to clip a bolt. Climb up and left past the bolt on tiny crimps to reach a break (possible no1 wire if you are feeling strong!) and traverse leftwards on more tenuous holds to a what looks like a resting ledge but isnt. Pull strenuously into a short groove and climb this to the next break. Move left to belay on the arete (as for New Horizons 1) 2. 25m 5c Last update: Normal12b on Sep 21 22:09 2009

7:Cuban Eyes

E5(UK Trad) length:33m 1. 6b Last update: tom on Jul 07 17:23 2008

2:M2

E1(UK Trad) 1. 5b Last update: Normal12b on Aug 25 17:05 2009

8:The Rebel Yell

E5(UK Trad) length:33m 1. 6b Last update: tom on Jul 07 17:24 2008

3:M1

E1(UK Trad) Climb the obvious corner then pad delicately up to the prominent diagonal break and place a good friend or two (suggest sizes two to three). Teeter slightly down and rightwards along the break to a large pocket directly below the finishing groove. Climb the short steep wall (good wire then bolt out left and thread on the right) to reach the foot of the final groove at the next break. Climb to the top an belay on the fence.

9:Pigeon's Nest

E3(UK Trad) length:20m A good route with a nice crux section protected by a bolt. Climb the slabby rock under the first corner (snappy holds). Ascend the corner on huge jugs and good gear to good footholds and nuts below the bolt. Make hard m moves past the bolt to good pockets up and left (clip an old bolt here to protect the second). Escape left.

1. 5b Last update: Normal12b on Aug 25 17:22 2009

1. 6a Last update: tom on Jul 07 17:07 2008

4:Motorway Madness

E4(UK Trad) length:42m 1. 6a Last update: tom on Jul 07 17:18 2008

10:I'm 55

E6(UK Trad) length:10m 1. 6c Last update: tom on Jul 07 17:19 2008

5:Electra Glide

E4(UK Trad) length:43m 1. 6a Last update: Normal12b on Aug 25 17:04 2009

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Contents LOCATION: Avon Gorge.............................. TOPO: Avon Gorge Sketch Map ............ SECTOR: Suspension Bridge.................... TOPO: Suspension Bridge Buttress ....... TOPO: Suspension Bridge ................ SECTOR: Ampitheatre.......................... TOPO: The Amphitheatre ................. SECTOR: Main Area............................ TOPO: Morning Slab Left ................ TOPO: Morning Slab Right ............... TOPO: Cental Buttress .................. SECTOR: Main Wall............................ TOPO: Main Wall Left ................... TOPO: Main Wall central Area ........... TOPO: Main Wall Right .................. SECTOR: New Quarry........................... TOPO: New Quarry Left .................. TOPO: New Quarry Middle ................ SECTOR: Sea Walls............................ TOPO: Last Slip Area ................... TOPO: Jasper Area ...................... TOPO: Simian Area ...................... TOPO: Main Face ........................ TOPO: Puke Area......................... SECTOR: Unknown Area......................... TOPO: Wintersol ........................ TOPO: Unknown Wall ..................... TOPO: Exploding Galaxy Wall ............ TOPO: New Horizons ..................... TOPO: Unknown Buttress .................

1 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 12 13 14 15 16 18 20 21 22 23 24 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

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Avon Gorge Climbing Guide